AS might have been expected, there has gathered round the
mass of lawlessness represented by the foregoing list of detections a
cluster of stories of cunning and daring, and wonderful escapes, which casts
a ray of interest over the otherwise dismal picture. From a large number
that are floating about, I can only give a few representative stories, but
others can easily supply the deficiency from well-stocked repertories.
After a School Board meeting held last summer, in a
well-known parish on the West Coast, the conversation turned on smuggling,
and one of the lay members asked one of the clerical members, "Did not good,
pious men engage in these practices in times gone by?" "You are right, sir,
far better men than we have now," replied the Free Kirk minister. This is
unfortunately true, as the following story will prove. Alasdair Hutcheson,
of Kiltarlity, was worthily regarded as one of the Men of the North.
He was not only a pious, godly man, but was meek in spirit and sweet in
temper—characteristics not possessed by all men claiming godliness. He had
objections to general smuggling, but argued that he was quite justified in
converting the barley grown by himself into whisky to help him to pay the
rent of his croft. This he did year after year, making the operation a
subject of prayer that he might be protected from the gaugers. One time he
sold the whisky to the landlord of the Star Inn, down near the wooden
bridge, and arranged to deliver the spirits on a certain night. The
innkeeper for some reason informed the local officer, who watched at
Clachnaharry until Alasdair arrived about midnight with the whisky carefully
concealed in a cart load of peats. " This is mine," said the officer,
seizing the horse's head. "O Thighearna, bhrath thu mi mu dheireadhl"
(O Lord, thou hast betrayed me at last!) ejaculated poor Alasdair, in such
an impressive tone that the officer, who was struck with his manner, entered
into conversation with him. Alasdair told the simple, honest truth. "Go,"
said the officer, "deliver the whisky as if nothing had happened, get your
money, and quit the house at once." No sooner had Alasdair left the Inn than
the officer entered, and seized the whisky before being removed to the
cellar. I would recommend this story to the officers of the present day.
While they ought not to let the smuggler escape, they should make sure of
the purchaser and the whisky. There can be no doubt that "good, pious" men
engaged in smuggling, and there is less doubt that equally good, pious
men—ministers and priests— were grateful recipients of a large share of the
smuggler's produce. I have heard that the Sabbath work in connection with
malting and fermenting weighed heavily upon the consciences of these men—a
remarkable instance of straining at the gnat and swallowing the camel.
John Dearg was a man of different type, without any pretension to piety, and
fairly represents the clever, unscrupulous class of smugglers who frequently
succeeded in outwitting the gaugers. John was very successful, being one of
the few known to have really acquired wealth by smuggling. He acted as a
sort of spirit dealer, buying from other smugglers, as well as distilling
himself. Once he had a large quantity of spirits in his house ready for
conveyance to Invergordon to be shipped. Word came that the officers were
searching in the locality, and John knew his premises would receive marked
attention. A tailor who was in the habit of working from house to house
happened to be working with John at the time. Full of resource as usual,
John said to the tailor, "I will give you a boll of malt if you will allow
us to lay you out as a corpse on the table.'' "Agreed,'' said the plucky
tailor, who was stretched on the table, his head tied with a napkin, a
snow-white linen sheet carefully laid over him, and a plate containing salt
laid on his stomach. The women began a coronach, and John, seizing the big
Bible, was reading an appropriate Psalm, when a knock was heard at the door.
"I will call out," said the stretched tailor, "unless you will give me two
bolls," and John Dearg was done, perhaps, for the first time in his life.
John went to the door with the Bible and a long face. "Come in, come in," he
said to the officers, "this is a house of mourning—my only brother stretched
on the board!" The officers apologised for their untimely visit, and hurried
away. "When did John Dearg's brother die?" enquired the officer at the next
house he called at. "John Dearg's brother? Why, John Dearg had no brother
living," was the reply. Suspecting that he had been out-witted, the officer
hurried back, to find the tailor at work, and all the whisky removed and
carefully concealed.
A good story is told of an Abriachan woman who was
carrying a jar of smuggled whisky into Inverness. The officer met her near
the town and relieved her of her burden. "Oh, I am nearly fainting," groaned
the poor woman, "give me just one mouthful out of the jar." The unsuspecting
officer allowed her the desired mouthful, which she cleverly squirted into
his eyes, and she escaped with the jar before the officer recovered his
sight and presence of mind.
The following story, told me by the late Rev. John
Fraser, Kiltarlity, shows the persistence which characterised the smugglers
and the leniency with which illicit distillation was regarded by the better
classes. While the Rev. Mr. Fraser was stationed at Erchless, shortly before
the Disruption, a London artist, named Maclan, came north to take sketches
for illustrating a history of the Highlands, then in preparation. He was
very anxious to see a smuggling bothy at work, and applied to Mr. Robertson,
factor for The Chis-holm. "If Sandy MacGruar is out of jail," said the
factor, "we shall have no difficulty in seeing a bothy." Enquiries were
made, Sandy was at large, and, as usual, busy smuggling. A day was fixed for
visiting the bothy, and MacIan, accompanied by Mr. Robertson, the factor,
and Dr. Fraser of Kerrow, both Justices of the Peace, and by the Rev. John
Fraser, was admitted into Sandy's sanctuary. The sketch having been
finished, the factor said, "Nach eil dad agad Alasdair?" ("Haven't
you got something, Sandy?") Sandy having removed some heather, produced a
small keg. As the four worthies were quaffing the real mountain dew, the
Rev. Mr. Fraser remarked, "This would be a fine haul for the gaugers—the
sooner we go the better." It was the same Sandy who, on seeing a body of
Excise officers defile round the shoulder of a hill, began counting them—aon,
dha, tri, but, on counting seven, his patience became exhausted and he
exclaimed, "A Tighearna, cuir sgrios orra!" ("Lord, destroy them!")
A Tain woman is said to have had the malt and utensils
ready for a fresh start the very evening her husband returned home from
prison. Smugglers were treated with greater consideration than ordinary
prisoners. The offence was not considered a heinous one, and they were not
regarded as criminals. It is said that smugglers were several times allowed
home from Dingwall jail for Sunday, and for some special occasions, and that
they honourably returned to durance vile. Imprisonment for illicit
distillation was regarded neither as a disgrace, nor as much of a
punishment. One West Coast smuggler is said to have, not many years since,
suggested to the Governor of the Dingwall jail the starting of smuggling
operations in prison, he undertaking to carry on distillation should the
utensils and materials be found. Very frequently smugglers raised the wind
to pay their fines, and began work at once to refund the money. Some of the
old lairds not only winked at the practice, but actually encouraged it.
Within the last thirty years, if not twenty years, a tenant on the Brahan
estate had his rent account credited with the price of an anchor of smuggled
whisky, and there can be no doubt that rents were frequently paid directly
and indirectly by the produce of smuggling. One of the old Glenglass
smugglers recently told Novar that they could not pay their rents since the
black pots had been taken from them.
Various were the ways of "doing" the unpopular gaugers. A
cask of spirits was once seized and conveyed by the officers to a
neighbouring inn. For safety they took the cask with them into the room they
occupied on the second floor. The smugglers came to the inn, and requested
the maid who was attending upon the officers to note where the cask was
standing. The girl took her bearings so accurately that, by boring through
the flooring and bottom of the cask, the spirits were quickly transferred to
a suitable vessel placed underneath, and the officers were left guarding the
empty cask. An augur hole was shown to me some years ago in the flooring at
Bogroy Inn, where the feat was said to have been performed, but I find that
the story is also claimed for Mull. Numerous clever stories are claimed for
several localities.
An incident of a less agreeable nature ended fatally at
Bogroy Inn. The officers made a raid on the upper end of Strathglass, where
they discovered a large quantity of malt concealed in a barn, which the
smugglers were determined to defend. They crowded behind the door, which was
of wicker-work— dorus caoil—to prevent it being forced open by the
gaugers. Unable to force the door, one of the officers ran his cutlass
through the wicker-work, and stabbed one of the smugglers, John Chisholm,
afterwards called Ian Mor nan Garvaig, in the chest. Fearing that
serious injury had been done, the officers hastened away, but, in the hurry,
one of them fell over a bank, and was so severely trampled upon and kicked
by the smugglers, that he had to be conveyed to Bogroy Inn, where he died
next day. Ian Mor, who only died a few months ago, showed me the scar of the
wound on his chest. He was another man who had gained nothing by smuggling.
One of the most complete detections and seizures made in
my time took place in Achanalt deer forest. The Beauly officers discovered a
quantity of malt and a bothy in course of construction in Coulin forest,
between Kinlochewe and Torridon. On an early return visit they found that
the malt had been removed, and that the bothy was still unfinished, the
inference being that the smugglers had become aware of their first visit and
had taken alarm. Careful searching failed to discover the malt, and the
officers suspected that it had been conveyed across the hills to Achanalt, a
considerable distance. The Dingwall officers, under pretence of fishing,
visited the locality, and, after two days' searching, discovered the bothy
in full working order in a very lonely spot high up in Achanalt forest.
There being only two officers, one said to the other, "Is it quite safe to
enter the bothy? There may be several smugglers, perhaps the worse of drink;
they may murder us and bury us in the moss!" " Well," replied the other
bravely, "I am quite prepared to go." To prevent escape a rush was made to
the bothy, where two men were found busy, the still being on the fire
running low-wines. Addressing the more elderly man, one of the officers
said, "Bha sibh fad' an so! " "Bha, mo thruaighe, tuilleadh is fada!"
was the sad reply. ("You have been long here!" "Yes, alas, too
long!") Pretending help was near, the officers requested the smugglers to
get ready for proceeding to Dingwall. But this they resolutely refused to
do, evidently guessing, as time passed, that more officers were not
forthcoming. Seeing they were only man for man, and that friends might at
any moment come to visit the smugglers, the officers concluded that
discretion was the better part of valour, demanded the men's names and
addresses, which subsequently proved to be altogether false, placed all the
utensils and materials under seizure, and allowed the smugglers to go. They
fled like deer over the bogs and rocks, and were soon out of sight. The
bothy contained a copper still, stillhead and worm, and a complete set of
the usual utensils. There was no whisky, but the receiver connected with the
still contained a quantity of low-wines, and there were several vessels
containing worts ready for distillation. The smugglers had actually cut and
dried peats for their own sole use, erected a kiln with perforated iron
plates to dry their malt, and set up rollers to crush it. They had a
sleeping bothy, with bags full of dried grass for beds and some blankets.
Small quantities of tea, sugar, bread, butter and "crowdie" (dried curds)
were found, and several herring hung up drying in the smoke of the
still-fire. At some distance from the bothy was a heap of draff, to which
the deer had a well beaten track. Having demolished all that could be
destroyed, the officers conveyed the still, head and worm to Auchanalt
Station, where they arrived in the gloaming, tired and wet, but quite
pleased with their exploits, regretting only that they were not able to
bring the smugglers also. The smugglers must have been at work for months in
their extensive establishment, and the officers afterwards learned that on
their way to the station they had passed close by the spot where a cask of
whisky was buried in the moss.
Melvaig and Loch Druing smugglers, on account of their
remoteness and the difficulty of visiting the localities without being seen,
caused the officers much trouble and anxiety. The Gairloch staff planned a
raid on the latter place, and leaving Poolewe soon after midnight, searching
suspected places at Inverasdale on the way, arrived very early in the
morning at Loch Druing, where the smugglers were in the habit of working in
the barns and outhouses which rendered detection very difficult. Clear
evidence of distilling having taken place during the night was found at one
of the dwelling-houses, but on entering the officers discovered that the
still had been removed just before their arrival. In spite of their
precautions the officers had been observed passing one of the crofting
hamlets on the way, and a friendly messenger was despatched to Loch Druing
to warn the smugglers. All the brewing utensils were discovered in a remote
outhouse, but the most careful search failed to discover the still. In
course of the search, however, fresh marks of excavation in the moss were
noticed, and after close examination a cask containing about fifteen gallons
of whisky, distilled during the night, was found buried in the moss about
200 yards from the dwelling-house. On account of the size and weight of the
cask and the distance to Poolewe, four or five miles, being only a very
rough track across the moor, the removal of the cask by the officers was
impracticable, and no help could be expected from the smugglers. It was
therefore decided to destroy the cask and its contents. After a sample had
been secured, the cask was set up on end in the hole where it had been found
buried, and as one of the officers was in the act of smashing in the head
with a large stone, half a dozen men rushed from the houses with a
terrifying yell that would have done credit to Red Indians on the warpath!
The officers held their ground, although at some risk of personal violence,
and the precious contents of the cask were destroyed, to the great sorrow of
the angry smugglers and their friends. Although only two families reside at
Loch Druing, nearly a score of men and women, several of them from
considerable distances, were assembled to assist at the smuggling, and it is
evident that much whisky must have been consumed during the operation. The
smugglers being in fairly comfortable circumstances, legal proceedings, were
taken against them and a substantial penalty was imposed. After some delay
the fine was duly paid, the cheque being actually issued by a neighbouring
Justice of the Peace ! Another proof of the tolerance with which even the
better classes regard these illegal practices.
The Loch Druing smugglers are said to have frequently
sunk their still in the loch, attaching a cord and small float, by which it
could be hauled out when required.
The following is a good example of the daring and
resource of the Inverasdale smugglers. Pressed and practically driven by the
officers from their own local haunts, they ventured to start operations on
the opposite side of Loch Ewe. While collecting the cattle in the dusk the
Inverewe herd came accidentally on their bothy. Aware of the strong aversion
of the laird, a strict temperance man, to smuggling, they became alarmed.
Pretending to give a warm welcome to the herd, they plied him with strong
whisky until he was dead drunk. They then bundled him into a corner of the
bothy, removed all their materials and utensils, and boated them back across
the loch to their own side. A party from the farm searched all night for the
missing herd, who did not waken from his drunken sleep till next morning,
when he returned and related his experiences which fully accounted for his
sudden and unexpected disappearance. Long before then the smugglers and
their belongings were safe on their own side of Loch Ewe.
Another notorious smuggling district is Alligin, on Loch
Torridon. This is the only place where the Gairloch staff was deforced. Late
in the evening they discovered a bothy near the base of Ben Alligin, and on
attempting to enter one of the smugglers rushed to the door with a spade and
threatened to cleave the head of any one who dared to come in. Knowing the
desperate character of the men, the unfriendly feeling of the whole
township, the probability of help for the smugglers being near, and the risk
of serious personal injuries, the officers desisted and duly reported the
incident, having recognised the smuggler who threatened them. A warrant was
issued for his arrest, but on a surprise visit by the Revenue and Police
Officers to his home, he could not be found. When the search was over the
aged mother, quite overcome, knelt at the door, and in eloquent Gaelic
fervently thanked the Almighty for having protected her dear boy. It was an
impressive, pathetic scene, which will not be readily forgotten by those who
witnessed it. It was afterwards ascertained that the son had not dared to
sleep at his own home for upwards of six months. Several detections and
seizures have been made in the Alligin district. A recently used bothy was
discovered on the margin of a small hill-loch in which there was a
heather-clad little island. Close search was made for the still, which could
not be found anywhere, although the worm was found concealed among rough
rocks at some distance. Suspecting that the still might be concealed on the
island, the shallowest part of the water was selected, and one of the
officers waded across some twenty yards to the island, where he found a fine
copper still buried in the moss and carefully covered with heather. The
articles were carried away in triumph, and it was said afterwards that this
clever detection caused much surprise and disappointment among the
smugglers.
On one occasion a bothy was found within two hundred
yards of Alligin Schoolhouse. Unfortunately the operations had been
successfully completed before discovery. What struck the officers was the
low moral tone which permitted of smuggling being carried on in such close
proximity to the school, where the children must have been fully aware of
what was doing, and the callous indifference which exposed the children to
the evil example and influences of such illegal practices and of the
debasing scenes which generally took place in and around these bothies.
Across the hills from Alligin is Diabaig, another
troublesome place. An important seizure of a large new copper still, with
materials and brewing utensils, was made near this place in a seaside cave
which has been frequently used for smuggling. A concealed channel was cut
from a stream on the hill-side leading water over the cliff to the cave, to
which access can only be obtained on one side. Another important seizure was
made at Upper Diabaig, where the bothy was neatly built in an old sheep "fank."
The still had been removed before the officers arrived, but all other
utensils were found and destroyed. These Diabaig smugglers are very
persistent, the locality being wild and remote and difficult of access.
Their own local saying is—"Is fada Diabaig bho lagh." (" Diabaig is
far from law.") The Tarvie and Garve smugglers have been very active for
years. A large seizure was made in Tarvie plantation, where the bothy
contained a complete set of brewing utensils and fermented worts. A
concealed channel conveyed water from a rivulet at some distance. When the
officers arrived no one was in the bothy, but the fire was burning, ready
for beginning distillation. In this bothy, which was not far from the
dwelling-houses, were found several domestic articles among them what had
never before been seen by the officers in a bothy, a bellows for blowing the
fire. Careful search failed to find the still, and when the bothy was set on
fire the young plantation had a narrow escape from burning, several trees
having to be cut down to prevent the fire from spreading. Soon after a bothy
took fire near Loch Achilty, and a large extent of wood and heather was
burning for nearly three weeks, when the fire was extinguished with some
difficulty. The damage and expense were considerable, and the occurrence
directed the attention of the Laird and of the shooting tenant to the
smugglers, who were warned and threatened, and this has led to less activity
on their part in this district.
It has been stated how frequently the officers failed to
find the stills. This is explained by the importance and value of that
utensil, especially when made of copper, and the great care taken
to remove and conceal it when not in active use. It is the invariable
practice of smugglers who generally distil at night to remove the still from
the bothy to some secure place in the morning. The following story, told to
me by Rev. Dr. Aird of Creich, is a good illustration of the ingenuity
exercised to secure the still from seizure. The Nigg smugglers were
frequently at work in the caves of the Northern Cromarty Sutor, which are
difficult of access, and the officers could never succeed in finding the
still. "Where think you," asked the Doctor, "did the rascals hide the
still?" I replied I could not guess, knowing how cunning and resourceful
smugglers were as a rule. "Under the pu'pit!" chuckled the doctor. But, I
asked, how did they obtain entrance to the Church? The beadle must have been
in collusion with them. "Of course he was, the drucken body! " answered the
doctor. Before the abolition of the Malt Tax all mills and kilns had to be
visited periodically by the Excise officers with the view of malt being
dried and ground for the smugglers. One of the Glenurquhart millers used to
tell of his narrow escape on one of these visits. The local officer came to
the mill as a parcel of malt was being ground. The miller, though much
upset, calmly engaged in conversation with him for a little, but suddenly
remarking that "the hopper was running empty," rushed upstairs and quickly
emptied a bag of oats which was standing close by on top of the malt in the
hopper. The officer followed leisurely and examined the contents of the
hopper, remarking to the miller, "Oh, you are grinding oats to-day." So the
miller narrowly escaped not only the loss of his good name for honesty, but
also the forfeiture of the malt and a heavy penalty.
Another of the Glen Urquhart millers was actually engaged
in distillation in one of the outhouses connected with the mill when the
officer, after a long tramp, arrived late in the day, looking tired and
weary. Having been observed coming, the miller met him near the house, which
was situated between the road and the mill, and with Highland hospitality
invited him to have a cup of tea after his long journey. While the tea was
getting ready the bottle was produced and the officer was pressed to take a
stiff glass of whisky, the miller apologising for the slowness of his
housekeeper in bringing the tea. By the time the tea was over, the miller's
smuggling friends had removed all the smuggling materials and utensils to a
safe place of concealment, and on his visit to the mill and kiln the officer
found everything regular, never suspecting that he had been so neatly and
cleverly outwitted.
Mr Paterson, Foulis Mains, tells a good story of a
smuggler and his daughter, Moll. In the days before the Malt Tax was
abolished, they were both in the barn putting malt into bags to be conveyed
to the kiln for drying, when an officer arrived. Failing to force the door,
which was strongly barricaded, he removed a small window and inserted his
head, when Moll seized him by the beard and held him fast. The father,
doubling his efforts to secure the malt, called to Moll, "Cum greim
cruaidh air a bheist!" (Haud a hard grip of the beast!), but shouted in
English, "Let the gentleman go, Moll!" He repeated these contradictory
orders until the malt was removed and concealed, when the redoubtable Moll
loosed her grip, and the struggling, breathless gauger was only too glad to
escape.
The neatest smuggling story I know is one I read
somewhere. An officer came unexpectedly on a bothy, and on entering the
smuggler, who was sole occupant, calmly asked him, "Did any one see you
coming in?" "No," replied the officer. Seizing an axe, the smuggler said,
"Ah, then no one will see you going out!" The officer made a hurried exit.
When I was a boy there were stories, which I have not
been able to verify, of smuggling being carried on in the vaults and
dungeons of Urquhart Castle, which we youngsters were afraid to enter and
explore. Similar stories, and better founded perhaps, have been told about
Castle Campbell, the haunted Castle Gloom near Dollar. These and numerous
stories show over what an extensive area of Scotland, and in what diverse
places, smuggling was at one time prevalent.
Time would fail to tell how spirits, not bodies, have
been carried past officers in coffins and hearses, and even in bee-hives.
How bothies have been built underground, and the smoke sent up the house lum,
or how an ordinary pot has been placed in the orifice of an underground
bothy,
so as to make it appear that the fire and smoke were aye
for washing purposes. At the Falls of Orrin the bothy smoke was made to
blend judiciously with the spray of the falls so as to escape notice. Some
good tricks were played upon my predecessors on the West Coast. The Melvaig
smugglers openly diverted from a burn a small stream of water right over the
face of a high cliff underneath which there was a cave inaccessible by land,
and very seldom accessible by water. This was done to mislead the officers,
the cave being sea-washed, and unsuitable for distillation. While the
officers were breaking their hearts, and nearly their necks, to get into
this cave, the smugglers were quietly at work at a considerable distance. On
another occasion the Loch-Druing and Camustrolvaig smugglers were at work in
a cave near the latter place, when word reached them that the officers were
coming. Taking advantage of the notoriety of the Melvaig smugglers, a man
was sent immediately in front of the officers running at his hardest,
without coat or bonnet, in the direction of Melvaig, The ruse took, and the
officers were decoyed past the bothy towards Melvaig, the smugglers
meanwhile finishing off and removing their goods and utensils into safe
hiding.
After dinner, Tom Sheridan said in a confidential
undertone to his guests, "Now let us understand each other; are we to drink
like gentlemen or like brutes?" "Like gentlemen, of course," was the
indignant reply. "Then," rejoined Tom, "we shall all get jolly drunk, brutes
never do." A Glen-Urquhart bull once broke through this rule. There was a
bothy above Gartalie, where cattle used to be treated to draff and burnt
ale. The bull happened to visit the bothy in the absence of the smuggler,
shortly after a brewing had been completed, and drank copiously of the
fermenting worts. The poor brute could never be induced to go near the bothy
again. Tom Sheridan was not far wrong.