This branch of the clan
M’Kenzie, at one time numerous and powerful, may now be said to be
extinct. In former days when violence, rapine, and war, was the
all-absorbing business of men, the Mackenzies of Redcastle, occupied the
southern portion of the County of Ross, and possessed in the frith of
Beauly (which bounded their estate on the south) a natural barrier of
great importance to protect them from sudden invasion or surprise,
commanding a view of an extensive portion of the country of the Frasers
and the Mackintoshes, were well situated to act as the scouts and warders
of their clan, to communicate information to their chief and his
adherents, and to harass and delay, if they could not effectually oppose,
a hostile and invading army. In their capacity as sentinels of the clan,
they were distinguished by watchfulness and bravery, and rendered
important services to their friends. In times of peace, they were,
however, characterised by a spirit of tranquillity, humanity, and
benevolence, which was seldom evinced in the turbulent times in which they
lived.
The period at which the
Mackenzies became the proprietors and took possession of the estate of
Redcastle, is very remote, and not known to the author. In the year 1590,
Kenneth Mackenzie, then laird of Redcastle, a gentleman of great worth,
and endeared to his friends, tenants, and dependants, by his amiable and
engaging qualities, resided in the family Castle at Chapeltown, situated a
few hundred yards north of where the present Castle stands. From his
peaceable and impartial conduct to all with whom he came in contact, he
obtained a character for integrity, intelligence, and justice, and the
disputes of his more quarrelsome neighbours were referred to his decision.
Not only was he esteemed and respected by the lairds and chiefs in his own
county and immediate neighbourhood, but his acquaintance and friendship
were solicited by many at a distance. He was particularly intimate,
and a great favourite with the then chief of the clan Cameron, and on the
invitation of the chief, paid frequent visits to the residence of Lochiel
in Lochaber.
In the year 1598, the Earl
of Huntly, created Marquis in the latter part of that year by James the
VI., went on a hunting excursion to the wilds of Lochaber. The Marquis was
a keen sportsman, and devoted much of his time to that noblest of British,
or perhaps of any sports, deer stalking, then pursued with an ardour and
on a scale of greater extent and danger than in these degenerate days,
although of late years something of the spirit and enthusiasm of the olden
times seem to be reviving, among those who devote themselves to this
glorious pursuit. To receive so important a personage as the Marquis of
Huntly with suitable respect, and to enable him to follow his favourite
amusement on an extended and splendid scale, Lochiel, invited to his
castle, not only the gentlemen of his own clan, but several lairds and
chiefs far and near, and amongst them Kenneth Mackenzie, Laird of
Redcastle. The sport was carried on for several days with all the ardour,
skill and success of practiced sportsmen, and great was the destruction
which the numerous party made, among the antlered monarchs, of the braes
of Lochaber and the surrounding country.
On the return of the party
one evening, after a fatiguing day’s sport through hill and dale, the
worthy chief as usual threw open his castle gates, and admitted the almost
worn out party. They were received with the highest courtesy, and treated
with the greatest respect; and on the pressing solicitation of Lochiel,
Huntly and the other guests consented to pass the night under the
chieftain’s hospitable roof, for whom a splendid feast was ordered to be
speedily prepared, to which a few of Lochiel’s most respectable neighbours
were hastily summoned. At the groaning board, on the right of Huntly, sat
their brave and hospitable host and son, and on his left Lochiel’s lady
and her lovely daughter. The piper, as customary, played during the
repast, some family airs. All, with one exception, were as joyful and
happy as could be; the ruby cup passed round, relieved with some of
Ossian’s songs bursting powerfully and melodiously on the ear, and at
times the piobrach’s stirring strains, resounded through the
banqueting-hall. But there was one individual present for whom the cup
held out no enticement, or the rapturous songs, delight, nor could the
wild and marshal notes of the great bagpipe arouse him from his reverie.
This solitary exception was Redcastle’s son, who, from the first glance he
got of Lochiel’s beautiful daughter, became desperately in love with her;
and although his father, who was surprised at his unusual silence, would
now and then gently chide him, it had no effect in awakening him from his
contemplative mood. Next morning as the guests were leaving the hospitable
mansion, under the roof of which such an agreeable and happy night had
been passed, each and all of them shook Lochiel and the rest of the family
heartily by the hand; and among the last to perform this mark of
friendship was the Laird of Redcastle’s son. He shook Lochiel and his lady
with the accustomed cordiality and respect, but upon approaching Miss
Cameron, the chief’s daughter, to take his leave of her, there was a
hesitation in his manner, his hand trembled, his cheek was flushed, and in
the expression of his eye, there was an eloquence which told the
throbbings of his heart, although his tongue was mute. The young lady was
also much fluttered, her colour came and went, and she hung down her eyes
upon the ground, until their hands separated, and the young Laird was
about to depart, when she ventured to raise them, and they encountered his
as they were taking a last lingering loving look of the object of his
affections. The declaration on either part, although not a word was
spoken, was inexpressibly intelligent—the eyes spoke unutterable things,
and the bond of mutual attachment was sealed. The young Laird departed in
melancholy silence, and quickly rejoined his party, and a few more days
saw himself and his father in safety at Redcastle.
Since the morning he had
left Lochiel’s, the young man was never known to be happy, and if he did
smile, it was the smile of one who was a stranger to cheerfulness—a sort
of melancholy seemed to have taken possession of his mind, and settled
there. This state of matters could not long remain concealed from the eye
of a fond and anxious parent, who became greatly alarmed, when he
discovered traces of a decline in his son’s countenance, and pressed him
hard to know the cause. To his father’s entreaties to be informed of the
change in his manner, he at last yielded, and informed him of his
attachment to Miss Cameron, and that without her he could not survive much
longer, at the same time requesting his father to intercede for him with
Lochiel. Finding that his son’s affections were irretrievably fixed on
Miss Cameron, Redcastle, like a wise and prudent parent, entered into the
feelings of his son, and instantly despatched a trusty messenger with a
letter to Lochiel, acquainting him with the distressed condition of his
son, stating, at the same time, that nothing on earth would give him
greater pleasure than that that chieftain would condescend to bestow his
daughter on his son, and pointing out the disastrous results to himself (Redcastle,)
in the event of his refusing to do so. Lochiel found his daughter in much
the same state as Redcastle his son, and the sooner the youthful pair were
united, the better. Great was the joy of the son when Redcastle informed
him of the import of the letter, and even the worthy parent could not
refrain, from participating in his beloved son’s happiness, at the
approaching alliance with the daughter of the chief of a powerful clan.
Redcastle and his son,
accompanied with a good many relatives, and a numerous body of followers,
lost no time in setting out for the castle of Lochiel, where, in a few
days after their arrival, the young and loving pair were united. In the
evening of that eventful day, and for many after, the halls of Lochiel’s
castle overflowed with guests, all hearts joining in wishing happiness to
the youthful couple, for which the latter seemed to entertain no fears for
a bright future. During the marriage feast, the visitors were delighted
with music, resounding through the extensive hall; while their followers,
forgetting old animosities, betook themselves to sports and games upon the
green, and were amply refreshed with plenty of home-brewed ale, &c.
After spending some weeks
at Lochiel Castle, the happy pair, accompanied by their friends and
followers, returned to Redcastle; Lochiel sending along with his daughter,
his faithful and trusty valet, Donald Cameron, an gille maol dhu,
or the bonnetless lad. Valets then, did not, as now, wear fine hats with
gold and silver bands around them, neither were they dressed in any other
livery than their plain clan tartan, and were not only bonnetless but
shoeless. Now, although Donald Cameron held this menial situation under
his chief, he was a member of one of the most respectable families
in Lochaber, and nearly allied to the chief himself. It was not generally
the poorest who held the situation of their chief’s gille maol dhu.
and Donald being a stately, fine looking, powerful and faithful man,
possessed no small share of Lochiel’s confidence. Although Lochiel
was overjoyed at his daughter’s marriage with Redcastle’s son, he had yet
his fears for her safety, owing to an old feud that existed between the
Black Isle people and those of Lochaber, especially the Glengarry men, and
the horrible tragedy at the church of Gilchrist not being yet effaced from
the memory of the Black Islanders. What still more increased his
apprehensions was, that some time previous to this, they were repeatedly
harassed by a lawless band of cattle lifters from Lochaber—the Bains, or
Macbeans, headed by their savage leader, Bengie Macbean, whose son, whilst
quite a youth, became so disgusted with the barbarous life his father and
his adherents led, that he fled from, and never returned to them again,
but afterwards became one of the brightest ministers that Scotland could
boast of since the days of the great Mr Welsh. As already stated, Lochiel
being aware of a deep-rooted, prejudice existing in the minds of the Black
Isle people towards the Lochaber men, made him the more anxious of sending
with his daughter the gille maol dhu, knowing full well that this
trusty adherent, sword in hand, would die in defence of his young and
beautiful mistress. The party at length, without the least occurrence
worth mentioning, arrived in safety at Redcastle, where a sumptuous
banquet was prepared, to which all the neighbouring gentry and farmers
were invited, and a cordial welcome the young pair received to their
future home from those assembled. The surrounding hills were all in
flames, every knowe showed its bonfire in honour of the occasion, and as
the blaze was reflected from the Beauly and Moray Firths, Donald Cameron
was convinced, that for his young mistress, no danger need be apprehended
from the Black Islanders, from this display of their attachment to the
house of Redcastle. Donald was soon presented with a more civilised dress,
with the additional appendages of bonnet and shoes. Being a remarkably
good-looking young man, he attracted the attention of the housekeeper, who
was also young and pretty. Honest Donald being aware of the bonnie
damsel’s partiality for him, like a good and true knight, could not suffer
any lady to die for love of him, and they were soon united. Having now
possessed himself of an agreeable and happy companion, Donald was
resolved to return to "Lochaber no more," but fix his residence in the
Black Isle, and by the kindness of his amiable mistress and her lord, he
was enabled to enter into possession of the farm of Mulchalch in
Ferrintosh, but was not long tenant of it when he was deprived of his
wife—who left him, however, a legacy of seven beautiful daughters. Donald
soon married again, and his second wife bore him seven sturdy sons, who
grew up and married, so that the Black Isle was well supplied with the
race of the gille maol dhu. He lived himself to a great age,
and was interred in the church-yard of Ferrintosh, where also repose the
ashes of many of his descendants. The descendants of the gille maol
dhu were not only to be found in the Black Isle, but Ross-shire in
general, and not a few of them are to be found in the shires of Sutherland
and Moray, and even in various parts of the globe, holding prominent
stations in society, while a good many respectable and sturdy sons are yet
to be found in Ferrintosh, their original soil.
But to return from this
digression to the Mackenzies of Redcastle. The family continued to
increase in wealth and power. The old castle became too old or too
inconvenient, and the present castle was erected. It is situated on a
small eminence within a few hundred yards of the sea, and commands one of
the most extensive, varied, and picturesque views in the north.
Immediately in front is Loch Beauly, the whole of which, from the village
of Beauly at the one end, to the ferry of Kessock at the other, can be
seen from the castle windows. Beyond Loch Beauly, the Aird, Bunchrew,
Muirtown, and Belladrum, rise in variegated splendour with their handsome
seats, fruitful fields and beautiful plantations, while to the north the
eye gleams along a fertile and cultivated country, until the view is
bounded by the dark mountains of Strathorrin and Strathconan. The Castle
itself is an extensive, commodious, and elegant structure, combining some
of the conveniences of the modern mansion with the strength, the turrets,
spires, loopholes, and battlements of the castles of the 16th century.
From the period when this
Castle was erected, the tide of prosperity which had hitherto attended the
Mackenzies of Redcastle began to ebb. The superstition of the people of
the country ascribed the decay of the family to the circumstance of a man
having been buried alive below the foundation stone. It is unnecessary to
say that there can be no grounds for a story which would reflect such
diabolical disgrace on the family; but it may have arisen from the
accidental death of one of the workmen while engaged in his work. The
people of the neighbourhood, perhaps the most superstitious in the
kingdom, required then, and require even now, but very slender materials
to impose upon themselves, and upon others, a tale of horror. Be this,
however, as it may, certain it is, that from this period the family
declined in prosperity, until it gradually became extinct. The Lairds of
Redcastle, like their neighbours, took part in the civil commotions of the
last century; and like most of those who were engaged in those commotions,
suffered for their loyalty or disloyalty, whichever it may be
called.
The last Laird of Redcastlc
of the name of Mackenzie, was Collector of Customs at Inverness and was
well known to the narrator. He was a most amiable man, condescending in
his manners, and arduous in the duties of his Office, which he discharged
satisfactorily for a considerable time, but from the circumstance of his
oldest son Kenneth joining himself with a band of determined smugglers,
the good old gentleman was viewed with a jealous eye. Kenneth was not long
associated with this lawless band when he had the boldness to bring them
with him to his father’s Castle of Redcastle, and there, for safety,
deposit their contraband goods.
The worthy Laird his
father, who was residing at his post in Inverness, was not till then aware
of the illegal and evil career his son was pursuing, although at the same
time his hopes were far from being sanguine regarding him, as from his
youth upwards he was of an over-rambling disposition. However, there was
now no alternative for Collector Mackenzie, but to resign his situation, a
situation he filled with honour and integrity. He was much felt for
and sympathised with by both high and low throughout the north, and
particularly so by the inhabitants of Inverness. Kenneth, seeing what his
folly brought his venerable parent to, like the prodigal son, immediately
abandoned his inquitous career. A short time after this he commenced the
droving trade—a more lawful occupation—but not being successful, he soon
gave it up for the more honourable one of fighting for his king and
country, having got a commission in the 78th, or Ross-shire Highlanders.
So keen and eager was he in enlistment, that he forced several poor
fellows out of their beds on his father’s estate, to accompany him to
India’s shores. This work of compulsion he even had the boldness to carry
on in Inverness, where he trepanned not a few, among whom there was one of
the name of Gunn, whose mother was a reputed witch, and whose awful
imprecations were fearfully levelled against him and his family, for
tearing away her only child. Sometime after, while, with his regiment in
India, he was charged at the instance of the Government with fraud, for
which he was called home and confined for the rest of his lifetime in the
Tower of London. In the midst of grief and sorrow, his venerable parent
calmly and meekly resigned his spirit into the hand of his eternal Father,
in whose mansions the cares, toils, and disappointments of this world
below are not known. The estate subsequently became much burdened, and as
the second son John, who was also in the army, and was much beloved and
respected by his brother officers, and every one who had the pleasure of
his acquaintance, was not in circumstances to redeem it, it was put up for
sale. A wealthy scion of the clan offered largely for it, and the only
impediment in the way of getting it was his being the son of a tinker,
(but he was a good and honest man although horn spoon-making, &c., was his
calling.) It was, however, purchased by the Grants, then by Sir William
Fettes, and after his death by the present proprietor, Col. Baillie of
Tarradale, the Lord-Lieutenant of the county.
The last of the family of
the Mackenzies of Redcastle, Miss Mary or Molly, died at a very advanced
old age a few years ago, at Lettoch, in a house which she had occupied
there for many years. She was a stately dignified old maiden lady, but
somewhat eccentric in her habits, and if a story current of her in the
neighburbood be true, a little whimsical in her tastes. If the cooking of
any dish did not please her, she invariably exclaimed "very good for
servants, but don’t like it for mysel’." So frequently did she give
utterance to this expression, that for several years before her death the
neighbours were in the habit of calling her by the title of "very good for
servants, but don’t like it for mysel’." Major Mackenzie of Kincraig is
the lineal descendant and representative of the Mackenzies of Redcastle.
There is perhaps no
property in Scotland which has been so much improved as the estate of
Redcastle. Eighty years ago the estate was a naked barren waste, scarcely
yielding any corn, except on what was called the mains. It is now one of
the best cultivated properties in the kingdom, and so greatly and so
rapidly did the value of the property increase in consequence of planting
the hills and cultivating the plains, that although the property was
purchased by the Grants a few years only before the beginning of
the present century, for somewhere about £20,000; it was in 1828 or 1829
sold to Sir William Fettes for the sum of about £135,000! but the present
proprietor purchased it for a smaller sum. One of its most valuable farms
is the ferry of Kessock, which pays a rent of about £1000 per annum,
although not 60 years ago the toll was principally paid in bannocks!! It
is still more gratifying to record that the comfort, intelligence, and
morals of the inhabitants have improved in a ratio corresponding with the
value of the soil.
Until within a late period
superstition abounded in this and the neighbouring estate of Drynie. There
is scarcely a bog, burn, or lonely spot, with which some tale of
superstitious horror is not associated; and in addition to the ordinary
witches, warlocks, ghosts, benshees, and benaives, the superstitious have
called to their aid the water horse and the water bull ,—which are said to
frequent Loch Drynie and Linne a Bhuic Bhain.
A very singular story is
told of the Patersons of Kessock. It is said that one of them was
fortunate and courageous enough to secure and take home a mermaid, which
he kept for sometime in his house. But the nymph of the ocean,
being eager to regain her native element, supplicated her captor for her
release, and said that she would grant any three requests he would make,
if he would permit her to depart. He agreed to this, and one of the three
which he asked was, "that no Paterson should ever be drowned in the ferry
of Kessock." The people of Kessock, Craigton, and Redcastle, firmly
believe in this story, and their belief is strongly confirmed by the
singular fact, that although many persons of the name of Paterson have for
centuries been engaged on the ferry, such a circumstance as one being
drowned was never known, and what is perhaps yet more singular is, that
while the ferry was in their possession, no person was drowned in it.
Besides the above annoyance
to the peaceable parishioners of Redcastle, they were often troubled,
especially in their sojournings under cover of night with other and still
more wicked demons, particularly whilst passing a burn about a mile to the
east of Redcastle, for scarcely one could pass or repass it without being
in danger of their life. The last individual who was attacked at this
unhallowed spot, was a worthy man of the name of Paterson, reader and
catechist of the parish. Episcopacy was then the entire creed of the
district. He being at the time on a catechising mission in the west, and
returning rather late to his own house at easter Kessock, was
attacked whilst passing the said burn by a huge monster, and were it
not for the repeated interposition of a faithful mastiff,
he would never return to tell the tale. However, after a severe struggle
the poor man proceeded homewards, when there appeared as it were, a
lighted torch or candle, as an emblem of the fiendish spirit being
overcome, which light stuck by him until he arrived at his own house, a
distance of four miles. He ordered his wife to give plenty of food to his
faithful companion the dog, but next morning the poor animal was
found dead, and the inference was, that although the evil spirit did
not get power over the honest catechist, it assuredly got it over his
companion. Nothing daunted, the worthy man repaired next night to the
burn, travelling the whole long night up and down from one end to the
other, carrying in his hand an open bible, and constantly engaged in
prayer. From that time henceforward, the poor traveller was never known to
meet with any impediment at this ill-fated spot.
"The prayer of the righteous
availeth much."
However, the march of
civilisation, religious and moral, has now, we may say, entirely banished
all ideas of such supernatural beings out of our land. |