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Transactions of the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland
The Woods, Forests, and Forestry of
Ross-Shire |
By W. F. Gunn, Nutwood, Srathpeffer.
[Premiums—Ten Sovereigns.]
The counties of Ross and Cromarty are now combined
for parliamentary and other purposes, and the joint county includes the
barony of Ferintosh belonging to Nairn, the whole district being
popularly known as Ross-shire. Together, they form the third largest
county in Scotland, and the fourth largest in the United Kingdom, and
stretch from sea to sea across the Highlands.
The county of Ross is situated in latitude 57° 7' and
58° 7' north, and between 3° 45' and 5° 46' west longitude. Its greatest
breadth from south to north is nearly 70 miles, from Lake Luing to the
rivulet Fin; and its length from east to west is 67 miles, measured from
Tarbat Ness to the north of Applecross Sound. The greatest length of the
county is, however, 84 miles, as its outline gradually contracts towards
the N.E. and S.W., and it is between these extreme points that, like the
county of Aberdeen, its greatest length is found to be. The mean breadth
from N.W. to S.E. is upwards of 40 miles.
Ross-shire is bounded on the north by Sutherlandshire,
on the south by Inverness-shire, on the east by the German Ocean, and on
the west by the Atlantic. Its outline is in the main triangular (though
in many places it is very irregular), the apex of the triangle resting
on its north-west corner at Ru Mone. It presents, perhaps, a greater
variety of surface than any other county in Scotland, and it has, since
the Dingwall and Skye Railway was opened, become a favourite haunt of
English and foreign tourists, who find that over its vast extent an
ever-changing panorama of gorgeous landscapes, embracing mountain and
glen, wood, loch, and river, may be met with; while it can boast not a
few of the most charming characteristics pertaining to the finest
agricultural districts, arable and pastoral, both in Scotland and
England.
Along the east coast are the peninsulas of the Black
Isle, Nigg, and Tarbat, the surface of which, though at one time bleak
and much exposed, is now varied by considerable tracts of arable land
and wood; and much has been and is still being done, by planting and
otherwise, to bring this formerly sterile district into a state of
comparative fertility. Backwards from these peninsulas stretches a
magnificent richly wooded and cultivated plain, through which the
Highland Railway passes, and which may be termed the Lowlands of
Ross-shire. Westward from this fine agricultural border run a number of
fertile straths, terminating in the Strathconon, Gairloch, and Loch
Broom mountains, which form the central watershed.
In the Highlands or western division of the county,
water, heathy moorlands, and mountains mingle together in wild grandeur,
the hills rising chiefly in clumps or chains, and many of them reaching
a great height.
The island of Lewis, situated in 58° 11' and 58° 31'
north latitude, and 6° 9' to 7° 8' west longitude, lies out about 30
miles from the mainland, forming a huge natural breakwater to check the
rolling waves of the Atlantic. It consists of a tableland on which are
only one or two elevations of importance, studded over a wild expanse of
deep peat moss, whence a few sluggish streams wind their way to the
coast. The bulk of the cultivated land stretches in a strip about a mile
in width round the coast line. There are next to no trees on the island,
except in the policies and plantations around Stornoway Castle, the
residence of Lady Matheson of the Lews.
By the Board of Trade Returns for 1882, the whole
area of the county is computed to be 2,044,217 acres, of which there are
133,918 acres under tillage, 90,750 acres of permanent pasture,
exclusive of heath or mountain pasture, and waste, and 43,201 acres
under wood. The acreage under wood is stated as returned in 1881, which
gives Ross-shire the fifth place in extent of wood among the counties of
Scotland. The yearly grazing value of the Ross-shire woods was returned
at £2586, according to the age of the plantations, from 3d. to 2s. 8d.
per acre, in the year 1871. There were at that time only three tenants
of this species of property, rental £75 ; the remainder being in the
hands of the proprietors. The above is taken from a Report on the Land
Statistics of the Shires of Ross and Cromarty, in 1871, by H. C. Eraser,
Inverness.
Climate,—The climate of Ross varies a good deal
in different localities, being dry and keen on the east coast, and very
moist on the west. The mean annual temperature of the mainland is about
46°; this varies very little, but the duration of summer heat on the
east coast is greater than on the west, where, however, the winters are
perhaps slightly warmer on account of the mildness of the westerly
winds. Perhaps the most equitable temperature is about Invergordon; but
over the whole area, taking its high northern latitude into account, the
climate of Ross-shire cannot be called severe.
Geology.—Regarding the geology of the county, a
few words here will suffice, supplemented by occasional notes throughout
the Report, as a complete technical account would be uncalled for. The
prevailing formation on the east coast, where the most woods are, is
undoubtedly the Old Red Sandstone, though greatly broken up and
intersected in several districts by irregular blocks of granite, quartz,
and hornblende.
At the Sutors of Cromarty, at Rosemarkie, and at the
Craig-wood of Avoch the sandstone is buttressed by strong ridges and
bosses of felspathic rock, which for the most part appear to have been
intrusive, throwing off the sandstone strata in anteclinal lines. In
other places the sandstone ridges are broken into picturesque craggy
summits, composed chiefly of the coarse conglomerate, as in the Ord and
Muirton Hills, the Pap of Strath-skiach, in front of Ben Wyvis, and
Fyrish Hill, often causing variations in the soil, and lending an
irregular, rugged appearance to the surface. The surface of Ross-shire,
true to the general characteristics of Old Red Sandstone districts, is
diversified and irregular. The formation among the hills on the west is
gneiss, mixed or alternating with mica-schist, quartz rock, ironstone
especially around Gairloch, and mountain limestone; the latter, so
extensively used for agricultural purposes, exists in great abundance in
the west, though unfortunately there has been only one small vein
discovered on the east coast, where it would be found more valuable. The
Hebrides are chiefly of the Secondary and Tertiary formations.
In laying out any portion of ground with the view of
planting, the first thing to ascertain is the character of the soil and
subsoil. There is no doubt that every kind of tree will grow to a
certain extent in every kind of soil under any ordinary circumstances;
but to grow trees to perfection, they require to be planted in a
suitable soil and climate. To judge a soil correctly, its chemical
properties must be known, in order to arrive at its qualities and
adaptation for any kind of plant; but practice enables an intelligent
man to judge it approximately on inspection. In this county the clay
soils, clay loams, and loams, situated principally on the eastern
border, grow the very finest quality of oak, ash, beech, chestnut, and.
lime. These trees, however, are found in the policies around the
mansion-houses and farms, there being very little extent of old hardwood
plantation. Although many of the fine specimens recorded in the Schedule
at the end of this Report were planted for purposes of shelter and
ornament more than profit, there have been a good many mixed plantations
and belts planted throughout the county within the past twenty years,
which in time will supply the want of more hardwood. In a great many
enclosures there is a considerable diversity of soil, and here, with
judicious planting, a mixed plantation is both desirable and profitable,
the hardwood being put in at such distances as will admit of them
standing as the permanent crop. It is just of as much importance for the
healthy growth of trees, to put them in a soil suitable to their nature,
as it is to select certain soils for wheat, barley, or oats. The
climate, however, must also be taken into consideration; for in
Ross-shire, as in many other counties, soils suitable to the growth of
any particular tree may be found at an elevation where these trees would
not succeed. To grow a large quantity of wood is a very desirable thing,
but Ross-shire is no exception, when it is said that the operations of
forestry are often so conducted as to increase the quantity at the
expense of the quality. We have all seen large bulky trees so coarse and
knotty, and open in the grain, as to be almost unfit for anything. Scots
fir, for example, grown on rich loam, is of such a rapid growth as to
render the wood useless for almost anything except fuel. The best and
largest are the qualities to be sought for in a tree. Speaking
generally, the best hardwoods in Ross-shire are to be found on the
sandstone and shaly rock. and the best Scots fir and larch on the
conglomerate and gneiss. A great want is felt on some parts of the
coast, in getting trees to grow for shelter, various trees having been
tried, with the result that the Pinus pinaster maritima was found
to suffer least, while it affords capital shelter, and grows well in
sandy soil. On the light soils of the gneiss rock, the mountain ash and
birch are prevalent; while it is a curious fact that natural birch is
springing up all over the hills where there was little or none before.
The Pinaster, so useful for sheltering young plantations on high ground,
is only planted to a very small extent.
With these few geographical and statistical
statements bearing upon the position and general surface characteristics
of this large county, and before proceeding to deal with the subject in
hand, it will be but right to state that the following pages contain
only a general description of the physical aspect of the woods and
plantations of Ross-shire, scattered as they are over such a wide tract
of country, the important wooded estates alone being treated more in
detail.
For the sake of comparison, it will be found
convenient to distinguish the four districts into which Ross-shire is
naturally divided, viz.
1. The Black Isle, comprehending the parishes of
Killearnan. Knockbain, Avoch, Rosemarkie, Resolis, and Urquhart.
2. Mid Ross, made up of Urray, Contin, Fodderty,
Dingwall, Kiltearn, and Alness.
3. Easter Ross, the peninsula of Tain, containing the
parishes of Rosskeen, Kilmuir Easter, Logie, Nigg, Fearn, Tarbat, Tain,
Edderton, and Kincardine.
4. Wester Ross, being the extensive parishes on the
west coast, stretching inward to the watershed of the shire, Glenshiel,
Kintail, Loch Alsh, Applecross, Loch Carron, Gairloch, and Loch Broom.
5. Hebridean Lews, containing the parishes of Barvas,
Lochs, Stornoway, and Uig.
1. The Black Isle.
This peninsula consists of an extensive tract of land
lying between three curiously bent arms of the sea—the Moray and Beauly
Firths on the east and south, and the Cromarty Firth on the north-west.
Its southern extremity, washed by the Beauly Firth, is occupied by the
parishes of Killearnan and Knockbain, the largest proprietors in the
district being the Eight Hon. H. J. Baillie of Redcastle, Mr G. Maclean
of Drynie, Mr C. Mackenzie of Kilcoy, and Mr J. F. Mackenzie of
Allangrange.
The shore here is in parts clayey, and sandy, with a
gradually ascending slope, which forms four ridges of Old Red Sandstone;
running parallel to the Mulbuie, and forming an agreeable diversity of
hill and dale.
At Kessock, on the Redcastle estates, there are three
plantations, extending to 300, 80, and 35 acres respectively. About 80
acres only out of the 415 are really good wood. The trees consist of
Scots fir and a few larch, some of which are nice specimens, and are
situated on the top of a cliff overlooking the sea. Further back, a good
deal has been cut and replanted, but the young trees have not succeeded
at all well. The most of the wood, however, is of natural growth, and
not in good order, requiring thinning especially. To the north-west of
Kessock Wood is Gallowshill, on which there are 460 acres of Scots fir,
with a sprinkling of larch. Some of this is about sixty years old, but
the best matured timber has been cut. Thirty acres only, on the
north-east corner of this wood, were planted, nearly forty years ago,
all the rest is seed growth from wood planted by the last proprietor,
and removed many years ago. Gallowshill "Wood has been thriving fairly
well, though now requiring attention. Linnie Wood, east of Gallowshill,
consists of 140 acres of Scots fir and larch, some of which is in fair
condition, but a great deal of the ground is very imperfectly drained.
It is about forty years old, and has also been greatly damaged by
squirrels. The larch thrive here when young, but seem gradually to fail
when they get up, as there are very few well-grown specimens. The soil
hereabouts is gravel above conglomerate rock, with clay in
the hollows.
Most of the surface was formerly covered with heather, and was so bare
of pasture that, we are told, a goat could not live over 5 acres of it.
These woods have a northwestern exposure, and afford considerable
shelter to the surrounding district. Hardwoods, comprising beech, ash,
and elm, stud the fields around, and line the banks of the burn above
the fine old castle, in the grounds of which there is a fine even row of
limes, and a belt of oak, ash, elm, beech, lime, plane, and sycamore
trees, which are old, but not of great size.The
ornamental trees include several nice silver firs, two large Douglases,
a Wellingtonia, and two fine Araucarias, besides some young Deodar,
poplar, chestnut, and several yews, all on a warm southern exposure, and
thriving well. Along the road to Beauly there are rows of elm and ash,
and a belt of young larch growing in an old sandstone quarry, almost on
a level with the tide. Where the soil is poor the sea breeze has stunted
the trees, but some other clumps along the shore have suffered
comparatively little. At Gargaston there are belts of oak, ash, and
larch, and below the farm there is a clump of old ash, oak, Scots fir,
and spruce, planted for shelter from the sea breeze. The soil around
here is light loam, on the sandstone formation. Between Gargaston and
Tarradale farm there are more belts of ash, oak, and Scots fir, which
though not of great value, are both ornamental and useful for shelter.
We now enter the estate of Tarradale, in the parish of Urray, to which
the Redcastle estate was added forty-six years ago. At Tarradale House,
prettily situated at the head of the Beauly Firth, there are a few old
ash, elm, and beech, with very few ornamental trees, except two or three
large silver firs and a few ash, plane, and sycamore trees along the
avenue. Near the road to Tarradale village, about 10 acres were planted
some years ago; but with the exception of a few spruce on the outskirts,
rabbits destroyed the plants, the ground now being occupied by a
plentiful crop of birch. Hilton Wood, on the opposite side of the public
road here, extends over 40 acres of clayey ground, which was planted
with Scots fir and larch about forty years ago. It has a southern
exposure, standing on wet, close soil, and has a stunted, unhealthy
appearance. Below the road, along a burn side, there is a considerable
belt of oak, ash, and beech; and around the farm-houses to the westwards
there are smaller clumps of hardwood. South of Tarradale village are 58
acres of Scots fir, about thirty years old, and very stunted in
appearance. West of Hilton Wood there are 20 acres under poor Scots fir
and larch, and grazed by the neighbouring small tenants' cattle for want
of a fence. East of Tarradale are numerous small clumps and belts of
Scots fir, with a few larch and natural oak. Spittal Wood, north-east of
Hilton, extends over more than 500 acres, growing principally Scots fir,
with however a few scattered larches. This is merely the aftergrowth of
wood mostly cut by the last proprietor. It is in a very neglected
condition, sadly requiring thinning, and in fact, in such a state as
will require careful and discriminate management and great labour to
amend much, without doing harm. It is situated in the parish of
Killearnan, on the Redcastle part of this property. The soil is gravel
resting on sandstone quarry and the wood is enclosed partly by drystone
walls and by a turf dyke. On the ridge west of Spittal Wood, 50 acres of
Scots fir and larch, planted about twelve years ago, is in good order.
Besides these woods, there are two small beltings of Scots fir near the
road to Beauly, one of which is on land formerly arable, and this, as is
generally the case with conifers on prepared ground, is not doing so
well as the other. No hedgerows or hedges of importance exist either on
the Tarradale or Redcastle estates. The whole of the young woods above
mentioned, especially Spittal, have been grievously and very extensively
damaged by squirrels, which seem not yet to have been sufficiently
killed down. Numbers of the young larches have also suffered from dry
rot. These woods are said to have been valued at £33,000 three years
ago. On the estate of Drynie, lying to the southeast of Redcastle, there
are 113 acres of very old Scots fir and larch, most of which is well
grown timber, while containing some particularly fine specimens of each
tree. In addition to this there are about 330 acres of younger
plantations, consisting of pine and larch, likewise in a thriving
condition. These plantations were thinned when at a height of 4 or 5
feet, the time preferred here for doing this being generally autumn, or
open weather during winter. Some of the plantation grazing on Drynie
estate is let along with the nearest farm.
Marching with Drynie on the north, is Kilcoy, on
which about 2270 acres are under plantations at various stages of
growth. The older wood, averaging probably from 80 to 120 years,
comprises 163 acres, not including the Belmaduthy policies; besides
which there are about 1107 acres of younger plantations, portions of
which have been planted almost every year for the last twenty years. The
old timber on this estate is sound and healthy, and the young
plantations have evidently been under discreet and careful management,
being in a most flourishing and thriving condition at present. The
subsoil here is a retentive clay, with a more panny substance on the
higher-lying parts. Owing probably to this uncongenial subsoil, it has
been found that, without the complete drainage operations which always
precede planting on Kilcoy, it is of little or no use putting the plants
into the ground. The plants used are mostly Scots fir, one year
transplanted, with a mixture of larch where the soil is suitable, and a
few hardwoods, principally beech, on the outskirts. The
Pinus sylvestris is the most common and most successful plant
grown here. We are told that out of a lot sold lately, railway sleepers
were cut 24 feet in length by 12 inches by 6 inches, some of the trees
measuring 32 feet bole, with a girth at 1 foot of 8 feet 3 inches, and
at 5 feet of 8 feet. Of larch, on the contrary, there are few of
remarkable size, but we understand that most of the old trees were cut
down some twenty years ago. It seems to thrive best in this locality on
a rocky subsoil, and especially on the slopes where not too dry. In
regard to larch blister, which occurs in low-lying spots on some land
formerly arable, the forester made the observation, that he does not
find land which has been long under cultivation to be suitable for a
healthy crop of larch, which will grow even better on uncultivated land,
especially on hill or rising ground where the soil is of a porous
nature. The young larches have suffered from hares in some places. The
enclosures consist of a sunk earth fence with two wires above on the
higher ground, and chiefly a wire fence with iron strainers on the
lower. All the hill plantations are fenced, and this, along with so much
drainage, generally delays planting operations here till about the end
of February. There is a home nursery on the Kilcoy estate, which has
been carried on for many years, and in which all the Scots firs have
been raised. The cones are collected in the woods, and the seed
extracted by means of a small kiln erected for that purpose. The larch,
we are told, has also been raised chiefly in the home nursery, but from
seed purchased in Inverness, and believed to be produced in Perthshire.
Some remarkable groups of old hardwood trees stand in
front of and in the lawns and policies around Belmaduthy House. There
are five groups of the common beech, numbering on an average six trees
per group, about 200 years old, besides several of the ornamental purple
variety, which have been propagated by grafting on the common beech. One
remarkable group of old ash trees grows on the lawn, while there are a
good many oaks growing separately in the policies, and a few elms along
the avenue, specimens of which will be found tabulated at the end of
this paper. The elm here, as in most places throughout the county, does
not come to any great size. There are a few Turkey oaks at Belmaduthy
House, a fine free-growing tree, which deserves a place on all dressed
grounds.
Ornamental trees, which are numerous here, include
specimens of the Wellingtonia, silver fir, Picea pectinata,
Picea Nordman-niana, and Picea nobilis, besides several
members of the spruce tribe, including Abies excelsa, Abies Menziesii,
and Abies Douglasii, which last has not proved very
successful. They flourish up to a certain age, from ten to twelve years,
when they appear to lose vitality, the top being too tender to stand the
cold cutting winds of this exposure. The Cupressus Lawsoniana is
the hardiest and most successful of the ornamental shrubs here, some
planted about fourteen years ago having already attained a height of 15
feet or thereby, and giving fair promise of arriving at maturity. From
this tree and the Wellingtonia gigantea and Abies Douglasii
cuttings have been successfully grown here. There is a small strip
of plantation on the coast, often partially flooded by sea water, in
which the firs and spruce are prospering, but the larches are very
unhealthy. The hedgerows on Kilcoy are principally oak, and the hedges
thorn and beech. The latter are in good order, being pruned every
season, and occasionally dug at bottom, when if unhealthy, we are
informed, a little lime mixed with the soil is found to be beneficial.
The greater part of the hill plantations are, at any rate, second crops
on that ground, and as aforesaid are quite successful.
On the Allangrange estate there are over 400 acres
under wood, which is almost wholly Scots fir and larch. On Gallows-hill,
marching with the Redcastle wood on the north-east, 200 acres of Scots
fir and larch were planted about twenty-five years ago, and is in very
fair order now, save for considerable damage done by squirrels. At
Elmbank there is a fine wood of larch and Scots fir, with a few
beautiful spruce round the edges. These woods have a south-eastern
exposure, and the soil varies a good deal, consisting of peat, clay, and
gravel, with here and there a strong pan. There are very few hardwoods,
except along the roadsides and at the Mains, where they consist of ash,
elm, and beech, with a few birch. The Allangrange Woods appear to be
doing well, and certainly add greatly to the amenity of the surrounding
agricultural holdings. Eriophorum pubescens is found in the
woods.
In the parishes of Avoch and Rosemarkie, the
principal proprietors are Mr James Fletcher of Rosehaugh, Mr R. G.
Mackenzie of Flowerburn, Mr H. M. Fowler of Raddery, and Mr C. M. M.
Miller of Kincurdy. The property of Rosehaugh comprises the estates of
Rosehaugh proper, Avoch, Bennetsfield, Ethie, Mountpleasant, and
Ardmeanach. Over these estates Mr Fletcher has made most extensive
arable reclamations, while every acre of waste ground not considered
worth cultivating has been surface drained and planted. Besides planting
waste land and making many useful roads, he has in rearranging the farms
formed numerous beltings and hedgerows, which year by year beautify the
landscape and shelter the land. The Bog of Shannon Wood, consisting of
Scotch fir and larch, extends to about 450 acres, of which 100 acres are
old timber. The rest has been planted at varying periods within the last
twenty years. Its soil is mossy in some parts, and gravelly with pan in
others, and rests on the Old Red Sandstone formation. It is exposed on
all sides except the east, and stands from 250 to 300 feet above
sea-level, on moorland.
Mulbuie and Braelangwell Woods extend over 2500
acres, and also consist of Scots fir and larch, situated at an altitude
of from 500 to 600 feet on the Mulbuie ridge, sloping both to the north
and south. They are thriving well on a reddish gravel, with hard black
pan, above the sandstone rock. The fine Wood-hill plantations comprise
120 acres of larch and Scots fir, clothing both the northern and
southern slopes of an oval-shaped hill, and stretching from sea level at
the north-east of Munlochy Bay up to 250 feet above it. The soil is
gravelly, and overlies the conglomerate rock, but the slope being very
steep in parts, a good deal of alluvial loam has gathered in hollows.
Situated between Avoch and Fortrose, overlooking the Moray Firth, there
is a fine old plantation called the "Craigwood," containing chiefly
hardwoods, among them being some very fine specimens of beech and elm,
and a number of grand oaks, for which this wood used to be famous. It
has a mild southerly exposure, and grows on a rich loamy soil above
conglomerate, at an elevation of 150 feet above sea-level. At Ordhill,
near Munlochy, there are about 60 acres of old Scots fir, planted in
1821, along with 4 acres of younger wood about twelve years old. The
Learnie and Eathie Woods consist of young Scots fir and larch, and
extend over about 420 acres. All these are doing well, though at a
considerable elevation and much exposed to easterly winds. Black-hills
Wood contains Scots fir, larch, a few hardwoods, and a clump or two of
birch. It slopes towards the south, and is enclosed by stone dykes. The
Avoch Woods comprise 200 acres of fine old mixed plantation, growing on
a moorland soil facing south. Alongside the parliamentary road from
Dingwall to Fortrose there are 40 acres of Scots fir, larch, and spruce,
mixed with hardwoods, called Darroch Bog plantation. The surface of the
ground hereabout is undulating, with if anything a northerly exposure,
and the soil is a damp clay. The approach to Rose-haugh House, lined by
some nice hardwoods, passes through the western portion of this wood.
These plantations are all thriving well, and the whole estate has a
pleasant southerly exposure, except about 200 acres. The general
surface, however, is hilly, the quality of the soil varying much in
different localities. The prevailing winds blow from the south-west, and
the climate, except at Millbuie and Braelangwell, is comparatively mild
and open. The plantations are well attended to, and are all enclosed by
stone dykes where material is available, and elsewhere by turf dykes and
wire fences. Cones are collected on this estate, and the seed dried and
prepared, the seedlings being grown in a nice home nursery, and planted
out about the end of April or beginning of May. There are some native
pines, the seed of which is grown from, but not sold. The home seeds
come away very well, and any additional plants required are purchased
from Inverness or Elgin. The general rule here is to plant in the
proportion of 1 of larch to 3 of Scots fir, and this, along with labour
and preparation of ground, costs about 50s. per acre. Some of these
plantations formed a few years ago were done by contract. A large extent
of the ground under wood at present has borne a former crop, and all
wood sold is by private bargain as it stands. In the sea-side
plantations, fir, elm, oak, and plane trees do best. The hedgerows
contain all the common varieties of hardwoods, and the hedges are good,
consisting of mixed thorn and beech. The woods are not much damaged by
game, but young larches suffer from the white American bug, Coccus
laricis. The larches are also subject to heart and ring rot.
Geranium sanguineum is found on the rocks east of Avoch, and
Pinguicula alpina at Auchterflow, near Munlochy.
On the Flowerburn estate there are 320 acres of wood,
comprising young plantations of Scots fir and larch, most of which have
been planted within the past thirty years, and some extent of older
hardwoods in the policies around Flowerburn House. To the south and east
of this mansion-house 150 acres of Scots fir were planted about fifteen
years ago, which appears to be thriving very well. It is situated at a
considerable altitude, and affords excellent shelter to a part of the
district, which is otherwise rather bleak.
There are 100 acres of Scots fir on the western
margin of the property, at a much lower elevation, planted about
twenty-five years ago, which are healthy and making great progress. A
few larches interspersed throughout this plantation seem to be doing
well also, and the plantation affords excellent cover for sheep. In the
policies around Flowerburn House various kinds of young hardwoods have
been planted, besides trees of an ornamental description, within the
past twenty or twenty-five years. These are now in quite a flourishing
condition, and enhance the appearance of the grounds greatly.
Three-fourths of the estate of Raddery were under
fine large Scots fir from forty to fifty years ago. This the late Mr
Fowler cut, and sold at a much better price than could be got now for
the same timber. This land was converted into arable holdings, and we
are told is now giving a fair rental. There is a plantation of 25 acres
on the southern side of the estate, about fifty years old, consisting of
Scots fir and some larch, but of inferior quality. The soil is shallow,
and the subsoil is of a hard panny nature, for although the ground has
been well surface drained it is only fit to grow propwood. Where the
soil is drier there are a few larch and spruce of good marketable value.
On the north side of the Raddery property there are
19 acres of fir and larch plantation, about twenty-five years old,
which, but for the ravages of squirrels, has thriven well. In addition
to these plantations there are small beltings and clumps of Scots fir,
larch, and spruce, with a mixture of hardwoods. Most of these, planted
about seven years ago, are of excellent growth, and ready for thinning.
Beech, plane, oak, ash, lime, horse chestnut, and other varieties grow
well in the sheltered spots. In the policies around the mansion-house
are bo be seen some good specimens of various ornamental trees,
including the Cedrus Deodara, Araucaria, yew, variegated and American
oak, weeping ash and elm, lime, hickory, tulip, and a number of shrubs.
The hedges are of bay and Portugal laurel, affording good shelter and
standing any weather, besides remaining green and fresh all winter. The
Saxifraga granulata is found along the shore here. On the
Kincurdy estate, behind Rosemarkie, some nice patches of young Scots fir
and larch were planted about twenty years ago, and are doing well. There
are a few very nice spruce on the outskirts of these clumps, but very
few hardwoods on the property.
All along the north-east the shore of the Moray Firth
assumes a high and bold outline, offering a very uninviting shore, but
broken by the entrance to the Cromarty Firth formed by the Sutors, two
bluff headlands, partly covered with battered old Scots fir.
On the Cromarty estate, in the parish of that name,
the property of Mr D. M. Ross, there are a few hundred acres of wood,
consisting of hardwoods and conifers of all ages and sizes. Around the
mansion-house there are fine elm, ash, and oak trees, which are large
and very old. Some thriving specimens of ornamental trees, including
Araucarias and foreign pines, grow on the lawn. To the west of the house
there is a fine thriving plantation of larch, spruce, and elm, besides
strips of old Scots fir of very fine quality, left for shelter and
ornamental purposes, on the Sutors of Cromarty. About 100 acres of
larch, Scots fir, and spruce, planted and well enclosed by wire fences,
some three years ago, are doing well. On the Mulbuie about 200 acres of
wood, principally Scots fir, are preserved as a sanctuary for roe-deer,
on which account it is much neglected and in a very wild state. It is
only about forty years old, but many of the trees are decayed. There are
some thriving hardwoods in the hedgerows and along the roadsides, and a
good beech and thorn hedge or two about the house. The estate has a
northern exposure, and the soil is principally black loam, though clay
abounds in some parts and moorish soil in others. A considerable extent
of land was reclaimed here which was formerly under wood and whins, and
of a moorish character. Mr Macdonald's Report, already quoted, puts the
value of this reclaimed land in 1877 at 10s. and in its natural state at
2s. 6d. per acre.
Poyntzfield, the property of Mr G. Munro, contains
about 200 acres of Scots fir and hardwoods, with a few young belts of
larch and spruce. There are some fine hardwoods round the mansion-house
and a few ornamental trees in the grounds, also some belts of spruce
planted for game preserves. Clumps of good old Scots fir, ash, and elm
still exist, though most of the old wood was cut thirty years ago. On
Udale there are large belts of hardwood trees, and to the east of the
farm a nice plantation of larch mixed with hardwood. This is about forty
years old, and is doing very well. Both estates face the north, and the
soil varies as the ground rises from the level of the Cromarty Firth. At
100 feet it is principally shingle on gravel, changing to a rich deep
loam at 250 feet, and a moorish boulder clay mixed with iron pan higher
up. Off this last poor soil a crop of whins is taken yearly, which
seemingly proves the most remunerative way of working it.
The principal proprietors in the parishes of Resolis
and Urquhart are Sir J. D. M'Kenzie of Findon, Mr J. A. S.
Mackenzie of Newhall, Mr Duncan Forbes of Ferintosh, and Sir Kenneth S.
Mackenzie, Bart. of Gairloch. Besides these there are the smaller
estates of Braelangwell, Kinbeachie, and St Martin's, on each of which
there are patches of Scots fir, and a few larch and hardwoods, but of
small extent and value.
At Newhall there are some magnificent fir and larch,
especially the latter, growing among belts of hardwood. A good deal of
wood on this property is ready to cut, and the larch are of as fine
quality as almost any in the county. Nice ornamental trees surround the
mansion-house among some large hardwoods, of which there are also nice
clumps scattered over the property. The hedgerows and hedges are not
very good.
On the Findon estate there are very good young
plantations of Scots fir, with a sprinkling of larch, situated on a
considerable slope, with a cold north-westerly exposure, but doing very
well. They have been for the most part planted within the last thirty
years, and as they grow up promise to become very useful for shelter,
and valuable as timber. At Mountgerald House, on the other side of the
Firth, there are belts of old hardwoods and a few ornamental trees.
The estate or rather the barony of Ferintosh,
extending to close on 6000 acres, though situated in the parish of
Urquhart. really belongs to Nairn. A great deal has been reclaimed from
rough stony moorland, and a large portion of the waste land on the top
of the Mulbuie has been planted. Round Ryefield House there is a nice
belt of hardwoods principally beech, mixed with a few spruce, fir, and
larch ; and further north a fine wood of beech, elm, oak, and chestnut;
still further north there is a smaller clump of the same trees, with the
addition of a few Scots fir. Those hardwoods are of considerable size
and age, and their varied foliage has a fine appearance on the slope of
the Mulbuie Hill. Small belts of the same hardwoods surround several of
the farm-houses; while behind Ryefield there is an extent of young Scots
fir plantation, interspersed with a few larch. The surface here is
covered with furze and heather, and the plantation appears to be in fair
condition. Further back on the Mulbuie ridge, another nice young
plantation, also principally Scots fir, and on the slope to the
south-east a large plantation of older Scots fir, are to be seen. At
Corntown farm there is a belt of hardwoods and spruce, and some
ornamental trees, while considerably to the west there are some thin
clumps of Scots fir with a few larch. These are in a bleak situation,
and not of great size. All the Ferintosh woods have a north-western
exposure, and rise from the Cromarty Firth to the ridge of Mulbuie. The
soil is light, resting on freestone rock.
Sir Kenneth M'Kenzie's prettily wooded estate of
Conan occupies the western end of the parish of Urquhart, and here also
considerable improvements have been effected by reclamation and
planting. North-east of Conon Station there is a small belt of larch,
about twenty-five years old, mixed on its western side with hardwoods,
principally oak. North-west of Conon village there are strips of very
poor Scots fir, but some nice beech and Mirabelle hedges. There are a
few beech, birch, and oak at Riverford; while opposite, above the county
road to Muir of Ord, there are some well-grown fir and larch (a few of
the latter however being royed), mixed with oak and beech on the
outskirts. A great deal of birch and juniper undergrowth exists
throughout this wood. The latter is hereabouts from forty to fifty years
old, and the Scots firs have thriven much the best; but further on it is
older, the trees comprising some fair Scots fir, birch, and oak planted
up with larch, spruce, and silver fir, all of which are doing well. The
soil is gravelly and stony, and the site level. Between the road and
railway some nice silver firs and spruce, planted up among old oak, ash,
and chestnut, look very well; while below the line, along the bank of
the River Conon, there are belts of oak and beech. In both these woods,
as aforesaid, there is, however, a lot of unhealthy birch scrub
littering the ground, which is by no means too rich to grow the large
trees well; the estate, however, being very narrow, perhaps the object
of this is to keep the game from straying. Here there are some really
nice varieties of silver fir, many of them protected by wire netting,
bub sadly overcrowded by the undergrowth of birch. The woods below the
county road near the entrance lodge, con-
sist of old hardwoods standing a considerable
distance apart, and beat up with spruce and ornamental shrubs, chiefly
silver fir, with here and there a Cypress and Deodar. Some magnificent
firs and larch and a number of fine oaks form the outskirts, while
further south, on both sides of the road, the woods are principally old
Scots fir planted up with younger Scots fir and spruce. Near the railway
bridge there are several nice clumps of spruce and a fine silver fir,
and here the larches and Scots fir are very good. On the Mulbuie ridge,
above, a young plantation of Scots fir and larch, chiefly the latter,
stands in rather a bleak exposure, but is doing fairly well. It is
sheltered to the westward by a large extent of older wood, the
north-east corner of which is chiefly larch, all the remainder being
Scots fir. This is from. about thirty-five to forty years old, and
appears to be thriving very well. At the principal entrance gate there
are one or two fine Douglas spruce and various specimens of the silver
fir, of a considerable height, and growing well. On both sides, the
avenue is lined by beech, oak, birch, and spruce, with a few larch and
Scots fir, intermixed, with numerous very nice specimens of silver firs—Picea
nobilis, cephalonica, Webbiana, and some rarer kinds. These and a
number of the Cypress order, appear to succeed well enough at Conan, but
are in many places overcrowded with evergreens and undergrowth. Behind
and around the gardens there are some nice beech and spruce, and
well-trimmed yew and evergreen hedges. On the lawns a few Deodars and
Austrian pines and a nice specimen of Cuprcssus, Nukaensis, and
Welling-tonia, grow. The oak and silver fir thrive very well around here
also, and a belt to the west of the house contains beautiful specimens
of the rarer plants of Abies, Picea, and Cupressus tribes growing among
some old beech, several of the best of them, however, being ruined by
rabbits, which swarm here. Behind the steading there is a considerable
extent of wood, being beech and oak, and some rather fine old spruce and
Douglasii, planted up with Scots fir and larch about twenty years old;
while further south there is a large wood of Scots fir, Row thin, but
beat up with young spruce and Scots fir. Hardwoods border the fields,
alongside beech hedges, while near the march with Highfield there are
some nice rows of young hardwoods. Oaks line the roadsides in all
directions, and in fact form the staple hardwood tree of the estate, but
are not of great size or very valuable. Away to the northwest of the
policies, the older wood is situated, not very far from the river side.
It consists of several clumps, each covering a few acres of ground, of
particularly fine Scots fir, more than a hundred years old and affording
timber of the finest quality.
Along the top of the Black Isle there at one time
stretched over 7044 acres a black heath, used for hundreds of years as a
common outrun to the Black Isle farm stock generally, and called the
Mulbuie Commonty. For many years the proprietors, believing some of it
to be worth cultivation, tried to come to an arrangement regarding its
division; a few of them did come to an agreement, and some extent was
planted also, but it was not till 1827 that the Court of Session
apportioned it.
A great part of this 7000 acres is now in a fair
state of cultivation, and almost all that was found unsuitable for
reclamation has been planted, and is now carrying very thriving
plantations, as noticed already. The improvement these reclamations and
plantations have effected in the producing capabilities of the land in
the Black Isle is very marked.. " Before the division a dark dreary
shade was cast over the whole peninsula by the bleak heath, which then
ran along the ridge; now, the many green fields and thriving plantations
that occupy the greater part of Old Mulbuie lend a pleasant cheerful
aspect to the whole district." The 196 acres allotted to the Conan
estate had been planted years before the Court apportionment, and the
wood was cut and removed in 1837, the land being let out in crofts.
2. Mid Ross.
Part of the parish of Urray lies within the
boundaries of Inverness-shire, but by far the greater portion is in
Ross-shire, in which part the principal proprietors are Major J. A. F.
H. M'Kenzie of Seaforth, Brahan; Mr G. J. Gillanders of Highfield;
Mr Thomas Mackenzie of Ord; The Chisholm, Rheindown; and Mr John
Stirling of Fairburn.
All these estates, except Brahan, are situated on the
southern side of the River Conon, the greater part having a northern
exposure.
Occupying the tableland of Ussie, and stretching from
the range of hills which form the southern side of the valley of
Strathpeffer, down to that of the Conon, is the finely wooded estate of
Brahan. Its extent is about 10 square miles, with a southern exposure,
and an altitude ranging from sea-level below Maryburgh village, to 550
feet at "The Cat's Back" hill, its highest
point. The most of the ground now under wood has already yielded crops
of fir and larch, most of which, we understand, was cut down from ten to
twelve years ago. The plantations at present are principally hardwood,
but judging from their appearance, the greater part has been long left
in a very neglected condition, requiring thinning, pruning, and
draining. Beginning at the eastern end of the estate, there is Maryburgh
plantation, at an altitude of 150 to 200 feet, with an eastern aspect,
on a loamy soil above gravel. This plantation is a
mixed one, but consists principally of oak, ash,
beech, and natural birch, from thirty to eighty years old, with an
average height of about 50 feet. A part of it is under Scots fir of
about thirty-five years standing, seemingly in a flourishing condition.
Further west is Dunglust plantation, at an altitude of from 100 to 200
feet, growing on loam overlying a gravelly till. The greater part of
this wood is of the same character as the last, but it contains a fine
clump of ornamental trees beside the approach to Brahan Castle, known as
the "Grove of Friendship/' having been planted by "friends" of the
Seaforth family. Each tree bears a label,.on which is the name of the
planter and the year in which the tree was planted, which appears to
have been mostly between 1860 and 1865. This fine clump grows on a good
loam, at an altitude of about 200 feet, and several of the trees are now
between 30 and 40 feet high, all being in a very healthy state. The most
flourishing varieties are the Picea and Abies families, comprising
Picea Nordmanniana, P. nobilis, P. grandis, P. Parsonii, P. Pinsapo,
Abies Douglasii, Ab. Albertiana, Ab. Morinda, Wellingtonia gigantea,
and Thujopsis borealis.
Extending from Loch Ussie, in which there are three
or four very pretty wooded islets, to Moy, is Marybush plantation,
situated on a sandy clay and peat resting on conglomerate, at an
altitude of from 400 to 500 feet above sea-level.
The surface herbage of this plantation, the exposure
of which is to the west and north-east, consists of thick heather and
brackens. The trees are Scots fir and larch, from twelve to •fifteen
years old, appearing very healthy where the ground is not too wet, and
reaching a height of from 10 to 15 feet. Brahan Wood stands further
south, on the north side of the public road from Maryburgh to Moy, at an
elevation varying from 300 to 400 feet. The soil is a loam above
gravelly clay, resting on the conglomerate and sandstone formations.
This wood faces south, and consists principally of hardwoods, oak, ash,
elm, beech, and Spanish chestnut of various ages, from 30 to 150 years.
Noticing that this wood was too thin to be profitable, we asked for
particulars, and were told that it formerly contained a quantity of
larch, which having been removed, has left it so thin that the present
trees have far too much room, and of course are rapidly growing to head
and branches. Some very fine oaks and Spanish chestnuts are to be found
in parts here, however, some of them upwards of 12 feet in circumference
at 3 feet from the ground, and 70 feet, in height, with a clean bole of
upwards of 20 feet. There is a clump of larches,
standing in a sheltered hollow with a southern aspect (see list
at end), of which we are told that the largest trees
got blown down in 1860 and 1868, but there are still about thirty
left, some of which stand from 90 to 100 feet high, and contain 120
cubic feet of timber. They are all of the red flowering variety. There
is also a clump of Norway spruce above the North Lodge, some of which
have been blown down lately. They are about 100 feet in height, and
fully as many years old (see list at end). The old castle of Brahan
stands about midway up the slope that rises from the left bank of the
Conon and terminates at the base of the precipitous wall of conglomerate
known as the "Brahan Rock," which latter, with its crown of dark firs,
frowns majestically on the expansive and varied landscape spread out
beneath. Nestling under this shattered cliff, are some fine old pines
towering amid the brackens. Many noble specimens of hardwood giants grow
in the fine parks around the castle, to the east side of which there is
a nice clump of limes, exposed to the south and east, and situated on a
heavy loam resting on sandy clay. They are of large size, and seem very
healthy (see list at end). A little to the south-east of Brahan Castle,
in a sheltered situation called "the Dell," there is a circle of very
large beeches about 150 years old, but still very vigorous. They are
between thirty and forty in number, and average about 11 feet in
circumference at 3 feet from the ground (see list at end). Here also
some very good Spanish chestnuts and Turkey oaks are to be seen (see
list), and a first rate collection of Rhododendrons and Azaleas. A fine
clump of eight very old Scots fir, which is growing south of the castle
on the bank of the River Conon, is believed to be about 200 years of
age. The whole policies of Brahan are extensively and splendidly wooded,
but, with the exception stated, there has been very little planting done
on this estate for a good many years; however, we are informed that the
cost, including draining, roads, fencing, price of plants, and planting,
is generally about £5 per acre. Numerous hedgerow trees and hedges run
up along the sides of the fields above the Conon, besides several small
plots and beltings, principally ash and oak, none of which are valuable
or worth special notice. The ash is in some districts in the county of
very frequent occurrence as a hedgerow tree: but it is ruinous to grain
crops within the range of its roots, and it can only be recommended
along roadsides and meadow or pasture lands. The plantations on Brahan
are infested with squirrels which have done a great deal of damage to
the fir plantations; while the larch have suffered from the "larch bug,"
Adelgis laricis. Rabbits are numerous as well as fallow deer,
which latter will prove a great annoyance whenever any of the waste
ground comes to be planted up. Among the less common botanical specimens
met with in the district, the Linncea borealis is found in Brahan
woods. The estate of Highfield is a very well-wooded property for its
extent, the greater part having been planted we believe by the late Mr
Gillanders, father of the present owner, There are three woods of large
extent, comprising several hundred acres each. The first of these,
extending southwards from the county road from Conon to Muir of Ord,
embraces the policies of High-fisld, and comprises a mixture of
well-grown Scots fir, larch, and hardwoods, chiefly beech. This wood may
be said to extend to the Urray and Muir of Ord road, which it crosses at
Dreim, behind which farm a considerable extent of very fine timber has
quite lately been removed. In clearing these large areas, whether to be
converted into agricultural lands or not, large masses should be left on
judiciously chosen sites, with the view of giving shelter, and also to
be the means of retaining moisture in the districts, and generally
equalising the climate, though the evil of entire clearances is greater
in hilly districts. . No. 2 may be said to stretch, from a point to the
northward of the Parish Church of Urray, almost continuously, until it
reaches the south banks of the Orrin, and up to the Altgourie Road at
Feabait, This wood, chiefly Scots fir and larch, has also lately been
extensively thinned, a great deal of valuable timber having been
removed.
In the policies of Highfield there are beech, oak,
birch, Scots fir, and larch, and some nice ornamental trees of silver
fir and spruce. The belts along the approaches are also interspersed
with trees of the latter description planted up among oak and birch
trees. The fields to the north of the house are studded by clumps of
hardwood trees, beech, and oak, and there are a few nice beech hedges on
the estate. North-east of the policies there is a considerable extent of
Scots fir wood, the southern half of which is older than the rest, and
filled up with natural young Scots fir and some spruce. The remainder is
about forty years old, and consists of fairly grown Scots fir, with some
good larch, a few spruce, and some wretched oaks on the outskirts.
Northwest of this wood two belts of Scots fir and larch were evidently
planted for purposes of shelter, but being situated on a poor, cold, and
wet soil, with a very bleak exposure, a large percentage of the plants
in the northernmost one are dead or dying; while, though the other is
doing better, the plants are too wide apart and branchy ever to make
valuable timber. They can only have been eight or nine years planted,
but are very stunted and unhealthy looking. The older woods and belts on
the Highfield estate contain some very fine and clean Scots fir and
larch and a lot of thriving spruce on the outskirts, while they have all
a thick undergrowth of birch and oak scrub. Crossing the Altgourie road
at Feabait, we come to wood No. 3, which is of much the same character
as the others, only, growing upon thinner and poorer soil, and much more
recently planted. It consists
mainly of Scots fir, with a sprinkling of larch and
spruce where the soil is suitable. Looking to the healthy appearance and
quality of much of the timber growing in this wood, it strikes the
passer-by that much of the land reclaimed in the immediate
neighbourhood, and made into arable, evidently at great expense, might
have been put to a much more profitable use had it all been planted. The
greater part is knolly or steep, and evidently too sterile ever to be
made into remunerative arable land.
Squirrels have done considerable damage in these
plantations, but it is no easy task to keep them down where there is
such a wide extent for them to roam about in.
Around the mansion-house of Ord there are
considerable belts of fine old hardwood trees, as also along the banks
south of Ord Distillery. The roadsides are lined with ash, oak, and elm,
and there are one or two nice hedges of beech and thorn in the
neighbourhood of Ord House. At Dreim, and along the principal approach,
some nice spruce, Scots fir, and larch, and a few ornamental plants,
have been put in of recent years. Northeast of Tarradale village there
are nice clumps of Scots fir and larch of various ages, but very little
old wood. On the ridge westward there is a nice young plantation of
Scots fir and larch, which marches with the Redcastle Woods, and is
doing pretty well. About Muir of Ord there are nice belts, chiefly of
Scots fir, which is older wood and fairly good. The grazing of these
last is very convenient to the market stance, Away high up on the hill
to the south-east of Feabait Wood on the Highfield estate, there is a
very large extent of plantation belonging to Ord principally of Scots
fir, and situated on very steep ground. This wood has a southeastern and
northern exposure, and grows on a light soil above conglomerate.
Marching with this on the south there is a large
plantation of Scots fir, with a sprinkling of larch, which belongs to
the Rheindown estate. This is similarly situated to the last mentioned
on Ord, is well enclosed, and is growing evenly and -well.
Fairburn, comprising the united estates of Muirton
and Fair-burn, is perhaps for its extent one of the best wooded
properties in the county. The estate is bounded by the Conon on the
lower and northern side, and by the Orrin on its southern side, but near
the bridge of Altgourie the march with Highfield crosses the Orrin, and
follows up the Altgourie Burn. There is a quantity of alder, hazel, and
willow scrub along the lower reaches of the Orrin, and some well-grown
hardwoods on the fine farm of Arcan Mains, but it is about two miles up
this river, from its confluence with the Conon at the Kettle Pool, that
the first plantation of any considerable extent comes to be noticed,
namely at Achnasoul. Here there are 160 acres of fairly
thriving larch and Scots fir, chiefly the latter,
planted about thirty years ago, with a row of young and promising
hardwoods recently inserted among the older trees along the roadside on
the western margin. Most of this plantation has a south-eastern
exposure, at an altitude ranging from 267 feet to 287 feet above
sea-level, and it affords excellent shelter to a large extent of
cultivated land. On the opposite side of the county road already
referred to, and west of Achnasoul, there is another plantation
extending over about 270 acres, and called Tower Wood, after "Fairburn
Tower," which stands on a bare ridge a short distance from the northern
boundary of the wood. This grim old tower anciently a stronghold of the
freebooter, and connected with the legends of the Ross-shire seer, "Coinneach
Odhar" stands high and roofless, on a site which commands a magnificent
view of the surrounding country. The elevation of Tower Wood ranges from
240 feet to 280 feet, running from east to west along the slope which
rises from the northern bank of the Orrin,and facing south. The upper
part consists principally of fir and larch, but in a sheltered hollow,
through which the southern approach to Fairburn Castle passes, lying
between the pretty little entrance lodge at Altgourie Bridge and the
Falls of Orrin, there are some very fine specimens of the pine and
spruce tribes, especially a "noble silver fir," Picea nobilis,
which at twenty-six years of age is upwards of 40 feet in height,
towering above the surrounding trees most majestically. The soil is
thin, with a gravelly subsoil, unsuitable for the Picea nobilis,
one would suppose, from the general belief that this tree likes a good
deep loam, free of lime, but retentive of moisture. In reality, it is a,
pine which is found to adapt itself to almost any ordinary soil or
exposure. In this situation, however, it is tolerably well sheltered,
which is most important, as, like all such conifers, it is very liable
to lose its leading shoot. Notwithstanding this common defect, its deep,
rich, silvery green foliage, its remarkably large and erect cones, and
its beautiful cinnamon-coloured bark, all combine to mark the Picea
nobilis as one of the most striking and majestic species of the
coniferous order. On both sides of the avenue,
here, there are also numerous hardwoods, principally oak and beech,
growing amidst a variety of spreading evergreens; while a very striking
feature of this beautiful drive is the number and variety of finely
grown weeping birch along the banks and around the "Falls of the Orrin;"
indeed, the whole surroundings are richly wooded, and romantic in the
extreme.
In close proximity to the "Falls" is a recently
formed "home nursery," a most useful adjunct, and one too rarely met
with. Public nurserymen very rarely give forest trees the necessary
space either between the plants or between the rows, and consequently
the young trees are often drawn up to a height which makes them
extremely slender for their age, while their roots want that amount of
fibre so necessary to a healthy and vigorous growth. Home nurseries are
specially useful for remedying these defects, and for preparing plants
for beating up blanks in young plantations, for training standard trees
and choice pines, &c, which it would be most risky to plant out direct
from a public nursery.
At various points further along this avenue advantage
has been taken within the last few years of sheltered spots, with
patches of better soil, to insert a number of young hardwoods— oak, elm,
beech, lime, chestnut, sycamore, and mountain ash, intermixed with
choice pines and evergreens. Most of these are thriving well, and
promise to soften considerably the wild if somewhat sombre beauty of the
surroundings.
On the southern bank of the River Orrin the hills
rise steeply, and are clad with fine plantations of Scots fir and larch,
chiefly the former, from their summits to the water's edge. These woods,
known by the name of Bridgepark, comprise about 300 acres, and were
planted about thirty years ago. They have a varied exposure, partly
northern, partly eastern, and partly southern, with an altitude ranging
from 200 to 600 feet. The soil, which is gravelly, overlies the
conglomerate rock, and grows timber of good average quality. These woods
and plantations, clothing the rugged hill sides with their rich and
varied tints, combine to form a splendid effect as seen from the
mansion-house and the approaches thereto. Opposite is the estate sawmill
(worked by water), by which all the estate timber is prepared. Around
the gardens and in the policies of Fairburn mansion there are some very
fine old Scots fir and larch; while all the grounds are tastefully
interspersed with clumps and belts of mixed hardwoods, evergreens, and
foreign pines, which have a very ornamental appearance, and are thriving
vigorously. Fairburn Castle is situated on the ridge which forms the
watershed of the Orrin and Conon rivers, the ground sloping both to the
north and to the south.
Along the cultivated slope facing north above the
River Conon, there are few plantations of any importance except at
Fairburn Mains and Achtabannoch, where there are recently formed belts
of hardwoods and larch, with a few Scots fir. At Marybank there are
about 130 acres of fir and larch, plantation situated on poor land and
not very well grown.
Though much seems to have been done by the present
proprietor of Fairburn in the planting of hardwoods, there are, except
immediately surrounding Fairburn House, very few full-grown hardwoods on
the property, and these are of no importance. There are a few beech and
thorn hedges, but the enclosures for the most part consist of wire
fences and stone dykes. The last extensive plantation on this estate is
situated to the west of the mansion-house, on the outskirts of the
policies.
Muirton Wood covers about 600 acres, which has a
surface varying with steep rocky hillocks and damp green hollows. It
contains much the oldest and most valuable timber on the property,
consisting principally of Scots fir and larch, with a few scattered
spruce. It has a northern exposure, with a considerable altitude, and
the soil is a very shallow black loam resting on the conglomerate rock.
Here and there a few dead ones are to be seen, but as a rule the trees
are sound and well grown, contain-ing a high average of "cubical
contents." The Scots fir appear to have thriven best. At Achonochie, and
for several miles along the roadside between Muirton and Scatwell, the
beauty of the scenery is enhanced by the lovely natural birch which
abounds on all hands. Regarding the principal plantations on the estate
of Fairburn, it may be remarked that they show signs of having suffered
very severely from squirrels, and they are at an age when much damage
may be done by these troublesome pests. The larches have suffered
somewhat from the larch bug Adelgis laricis. The woods seem to be
well opened up by shooting rides, many of which will probably serve as
timber roads when required. A good many years ago it is said that a
prize, offered by the Highland Society, was awarded to the then owner of
this estate for the extent and excellence of its young plantations. In
all there are close upon 2000 acres of excellent wood, the main portion
of which was planted by the late Laird of Brahan and his mother. Their
present condition proves that great judgment has been displayed in their
formation, and in the selection of the kinds of trees best adapted to
the soil, situation, and exposure; and we have reason to believe that,
under the fostering care of the present owner, the capabilities of these
extensive woods will be fully developed, and will some day, not far
distant, yield a handsome return.
The principal proprietors in the parish of Contin are
Sir A. G. R. Mackenzie of Coul, Bart,
Mr A. J. Balfour of Strathconon, Mr Alexander Mackenzie of Scatwell, Mr
C. A. Hanbury of Strathgarve, and also the Hon. Lady Ashburton of
Kinloch-luichart, &c.
Contin, a very extensive parish lying to the north
and northwest of Urray, is extensively and prettily wooded. Occupying
its eastern half is the estate of Coul, belonging to Sir Arthur M'Kenzie,
Bart., still in his minority. The western half of this property, lying
beyond the Blackwater which flows through Contin, one of the loveliest
villages in the north, is called Craig-darroch. Around Craigdarroch
Lodge there are several fine specimens of larch and spruce, and of the
common British oak, Quercus pedunculated, and there are a few
other hardwoods along the roadsides. The name "Craigdarroch" was given
to the rocky bank to the westward of the lodge, which is thickly covered
with oak and birch, both of natural growth, but which, except for their
appearance, are of little value. Tor Achilty, a rugged perpendicular
elevation, is beautifully covered with richly foliated weeping birch;
and on its south side, overhanging the Conon, the birch are mixed with
fir, oak, alder, and willow. Below it are seen the lower reaches of the
Blackwater winding onwards and joining the Conon below Moy. On the north
side of the Tor the birch are much finer trees, but here there are in
addition numerous finely grown larch and Scots fir, most of which,
having now reached maturity, have been sold as they stand, and are being
cut up by a steam sawmill at the foot of the hill. The hills surrounding
Loch Achilty, a most lovely sheet of water, form a picture of rare
sylvan beauty, being feathered from their summits to the water's edge,
the foliage of the lovely weeping birch contrasting splendidly with the
more sombre hue of the ancient pine. Comrie lies embosomed among birch
and fir-clad knolls, formed of the terminating ridges of Tor Achilty. It
may here be remarked, that Tor Achilty is the extreme westward limit of
the common whin (U/lex europœus) and
broom, neither of which are found as native plants further inland, nor
on the west coast, though they have there been extensively introduced.
Some miles beyond Comrie there are extensive birch and Scots fir woods,
and here the Conon tumbles over a series of gneiss rocks, which abound
in large crystals of schorl. On the hills from the falls of Conon to
Tarvie, natural birch and bracken prevail; but below the township of
Tarvie on the way to Garve, we come to the first young plantation on the
Coul property. There are 112 acres of mixed Scots fir and larch in a
very thriving condition, and about twelve years old. At Easter Tarvie
there are other 43 acres, also of Scots fir and larch, planted about two
years ago, and likewise doing well at present. These plantations are on
a mossy gravel, with a northern exposure. The plants in the first
mentioned plantation were, we understand, supplied and put in under
contract agreement by Messrs Cocker of Aberdeen Nurseries, the terms of
which we were unable to learn. The remainder came from Messrs Howden,
Inverness. Beautiful blocks of garnet schist with mica are found around
here. There are some old Scots fir, spruce, and alder trees about the
island at Bogie, and the whole district on both sides of the river,
southwards to Contin, abounds in beautiful birch.
Coul Mains plantation consists of 30 acres of larch
and Scots fir, about four years old, and doing well now, but
considerably damaged by rabbits. Below and in front of the View Rock
there is a very extensive plantation of Scots fir and birch, and an
older wood of mixed hardwoods, principally beech, which has a dense
undergrowth, and is situated on a fair soil facing south. All the parks
around Coul House are studded with rows and clumps of fine old beech,
ash, chestnut, oak, and lime trees. At the foot of the paddock in front
of the house there is a truly magnificent row of fourteen richly
foliaged beech trees, averaging 12 feet of girth, and 50 to 60 feet of
clear bole. To the left of these, and nearer the house, there is another
magnificent row of seventeen, which, however, were planted rather too
close, yet one or two girth 16 feet, and they will average 40 feet of
bole, and 100 feet in height. The stump of a particularly large one,
girthing 17 feet, is lying near, which fell in the Tay Bridge gale of
December 28, 1879. Its trunk contained 256 feet of timber when it fell,
and it knocked down an immense decayed ash, which in its fall brought
down another large beech, also decayed. "The stem of the beech is grand
and massive, its bark smooth and of a silvery cast, and when the heat of
mid-summer unfolds its silken foliage, it displays a verdure of softness
and delicacy, which when viewed in a park like this, amidst the sunshine
and showers of summer, make it a gem indeed." There are one or two nice
ash and plane trees at Coul, some of the latter covered with ivy. Among
the ornamental trees on the lawn are the Cupressus Lawsoniana,
Sequoia gigantea, Cedrus Deodara, Abies Douglasii, Picea pectinata,
Pinus austriaca, and numerous small trees of the spruce tribe. These
are growing wild and require attention, and a lot of rubbish growing
among them should be removed. The present Coul House is the third built
near here, and beside the almost obliterated remains of a bridge there
is on an old ash to the right of the lower avenue, a board, now partly
grown into the tree, on which it is said the lodge bell was fastened in
the times of the first mansion-house of Coul. Right in front of the
house stands a Picea nobilis, which without doubt is one of the
finest in the north of Scotland. It is 73 feet high, is feathered to the
bottom, and covers a circumference of 102 feet with its lower branches.
It has several times lost its leading shoot by severe storms, but has
always formed a new one, and has at present a good leader. It bears
beautiful cones, plentifully every two years, and the forester has
obtained some this year to grow from. It was propagated from seed,
probably the first introduced into the country in the year 1827, and is
no exception to the rule, that the natural origin from the cone or seed
is the only legitimate means for raising really reliable timber trees,
of prospective sturdiness of habit, and future value and development.
There is a nice weeping birch in the garden at Coul, and close by
outside a few oak and ash, besides one or two large and very straight
birch, the wood of which, at one time so valuable for staves, is now
used chiefly for cotton reels and bobbins, seven tons of the wood going
to make one ton of bobbins.
There are about 2000 yards of beech and thorn hedges
on the Coul property, and the fields are for the most part divided by
fair samples of the ordinary hardwood hedgerow trees, oak and elm. The
policy woods have both a southern and western exposure, and stand on a
good clayey loam, above the sandstone formation, which from here
stretches away into the lower parts of the parishes of Contin, Fodderty,
and Dingwall, and is covered in some parts with a strong reddish clay.
In the higher lying parts of these, and in fact in all the parishes
running back into the hills, the prevailing formation is gneiss with its
subordinate rocks.
Both sides of the upper avenue at Coul are lined with
old Scots fir and hardwoods, a few larch and an undergrowth of spruce
and birch. Much of this requires thinning and attending to. At Jamestown
there is a strip of mixed plantation along the roadside, about
twenty-four years old, which is also much too thick. Along the avenue
to, and around Kinellan Lodge there are some nice young hardwoods and
ornamental trees, and a few good hedges, while young clumps of mixed
trees shelter some of the parks, and a few nice shrubs surround the farm
houses. Behind and overlooking the pretty Loch Kinellan there is another
young plantation, which marches with the Ord belting on the Cromartie
estate, and is called Kinellan Hill plantation. Here there are 70 acres
of Scots fir and larch, about seven years old, which are not doing very
well. It stands on a bleak hillside, with a poor, odd moorland soil, and
besides has been considerably damaged by game.
The woods on the Coul property are pretty well fenced
and drained. Pyrola unifiora, Corallorhiza innata, Malaxis paludosa,
Lycopodium immdatum are found in the woods
near the "View Rock.
Crossing the Conon at Comrie, we come to notice the
plantations on the estate of Scatwell, situated at the low end of
Strath-conon, and " the loveliest spot in all that lovely glen." On the
south-eastern side, where the property marches with Fairburn, the rocky
surface is covered with beautiful weeping birch, and the banks of the
Conon here are fringed with alder and willow. This natural wood extends
to within about half a mile of Scat-well Lodge, where it gives place to
a thriving plantation of Scots fir, with a sprinkling of larches. This
stretches over the mossy flat and up the hillside above the house, which
it shelters greatly. Along the valley of the burns here there are some
older trees, but there is no notable extent of old wood on Scatwell. To
the west and south-west of the house is another young plantation of a
similar nature to the last; while the Mains of Scatwell is sheltered by
a few old hardwoods, and the grounds around Scatwell Lodge, as well as
the outskirts of the aforementioned plantations, are lined with
beautiful spruce, which seems to thrive wonderfully well here. On the
well-kept lawn and along the sides of the walks there are a few very
pretty plants of ornamental description, which being well
sheltered are growing well. The soil on Scatwell is a light sandy
loam above gravel, and all the woods have a northern exposure.
On the estate of Little Scatwell (Mr H. M. Matheson)
there has been a considerable extent of Scots fir and larch plantation
planted within the last ten years, which apparently is thriving very
well.
On Scuir Marxy (1600 feet), the bold rocky frontlet
which overhangs Loch Luichart on its southern shore, several interesting
and truly alpine plants are to be found, as Rubus Chamœmorus,
Thalictrum alpinum, Circœa alpina, and
Arbutus alpina; while over the ridges stretching westward to
Mossford there are large tracts of the suberect but beautiful dwarf
birch Betula nana.
We next enter the estate of Strathconon (Mr A. J.
Balfour), situated in the great pastoral glen of Strathconon, through
which the Meig flows, emerging above Scatwell on the south side of Scuir
Vullin and Scuir Marxy to join the Conon. It may here be mentioned that
the river Conon, which we have seen is bordered by such beautiful woods,
is 30 miles long, flows out of Loch Luichart, and drains all the inland
lakes and mountains to Lochs Rosque and Fannich, within 10 miles of the
western sea. On Strathconon there are about 550 acres of wood, planted
between thirty and forty years ago, and consisting principally of Scots
fir with a good sprinkling of larch, and a few spruce. This is situated
on the face of a hill with a southern exposure, and has a fine
appearance.
High up there are almost no larch, and the Scots fir
are small; but lower down the trees gradually increase in size, and have
grown well, while the whole is in a most healthy state. The wood is
found very useful for estate purposes, but there is far more cut in
thinning than is required for such, and from the distance (nearly 20
miles) to the nearest railway station at Muir of Ord, the cost of
cartage, of say pit props, is fully as much as can be got for the wood,
so that it must be difficult to dispose of in such a thinly populated
and pastoral district. About the grounds of Strathconon House there are
pines and trees of an ornamental description, such as Douglasii,
Wellingtonia, Pinus Cembra, Cupressus Lawsoniana, and a few
others, all of which seem to do well. The Douglasii grows very fast, but
the leaders are often broken off by the wind. The soil around here is
good, and the elevation may range from 300 to 1200 feet above sea-level.
Mr Balfour has for some years past been planting portions of the
Strathconon deer forest, but this is purely for the advantage of the
forest, and not for the production of timber. The enclosures consist of
strong wire fences and good stone dykes, which latter are a great
shelter. Thalictrum alpinum and Circœa
alpina are to be found here.
Still in the parish of Contin, we now return to the
valley of the Blackwater, at the estate of Strathgarve, which is well
and beautifully wooded, the plantations clothing the rugged hillsides
above the pretty Loch Garve. The older wood on this property consists of
nearly 250 acres of fine Scots fir and larch, in about the same
proportion, and fifty-eight or sixty years old, with a few birch
intermixed. There are other fine plantations extending to over 100
acres, and made up of about 85 acres of Scots fir, 8 of larch, and 7 of
spruce. All this wood ranges from forty-eight to fifty years old, and is
well grown and healthy. In its neighbourhood there are about 54 acres of
pretty weeping birch, most of which is also of considerable age.
The greater part of these woods stands on a gravelly
soil, with a southern exposure, at the foot of and clothing the hillside
on the north of the loch, and on the banks of the Blackwater to the
west. There has been a large extent of ground planted here within the
past twelve years, which at present gives great promise of success.
These young plantations, covering about 430 acres, all consist of mixed
larch and Scots fir, and are situated on a heathery slope, the surface
of which is undulating, presenting rocky knolls and sheltered hollows.
The exposure is chiefly towards the north, and the
soil is in general gravelly, except in hollows, where there is a good
deal of alluvial deposit and where naturally the trees have done best.
In the years 1871-72 and 1873, 150 acres of nice larch and Scots fir
were planted, which now afford considerable shelter, and help to take
away the bleak appearance of the hills overlooking Loch Garve on its
southern side as seen from the road and railway in passing. Thirty acres
were planted about five years ago, and other 250 acres in 1880, all of
larch and Scots fir, which are doing very well. In addition to these
there are 10 acres of mixed alder and willow, of about thirteen years'
standing. Spring planting is in favour here, all the above mentioned
young plantations having been put into the ground during the months of
February and March. Bound the pretty mansion-house of Strathgarve are
some fine larch, Scots fir, spruce, and birch, with nice ornamental
specimens of silver fir, oak, ash, and beech, planted about five years
ago, and studded tastefully over the lawns.
At Inchbae and Strathvaich, along the road to
Braemore, in Lochbroom parish, there are copses of lovely natural birch,
and the river banks are fringed with alder and willow.
On the estate of Kinlochluichart we again find
hundreds of acres over which the beautiful silver weeping birch
flourishes in all its native beauty. It is here to be found of all ages,
from the gnarled old trunk to the thriving and beautiful young copse.
West of the manse there is a nice wood of Scots fir with a few larch and
spruce, about twenty years old, and doing well; while above and below
the railway station, and stretching up nearly to Alt Dearg, there are
splendid young plantations of larch and Scots fir, mixed with spruce on
the low ground, all well enclosed from sheep and deer by high iron
fences, and doing remarkably well. Most of this, extending to about 300
acres, has been planted within the last seven years, and stands on a
moorish soil of undulating surface. North of the lodge, above the county
road, there are some oaks of extraordinary size and fantastic shape, and
possessing a great spread of branches. The hills around here and along
each side of the lovely Loch Luichart are fringed with birch (many of
the young copses being well grown), which being varied here and there
with the darker green of the old oak trees, looks very well. Below and
to the west of the lodge, there is a considerable extent of mixed
hardwoods, few of any great size, growing out of a thick undergrowth of
hazel and thorn. Bound the pretty lodge of Kinlochluichart, beautifully
situated on a birch-clad hillside, there are one or two fine
Wellingtonias and yew trees, enclosed by iron ring fences.
The district around Achanault, to the west of
Kinlochluichart, is bleak and bare, but the luxuriant growth of
creepers, amongst which the scarlet Tropasolum is conspicuous, around
the walls of the hotel, is a proof of what may be done in a district
apparently abandoned to desolation. Further to the westwards, around
Achnasheen, there is little or no old wood except some clumps of Scots
fir here and there; but on the Achnasheen, Ardross, and Strathbran
estates, in the neighbourhood, a great extent of hill ground has been
planted with fir, larch, and a few spruce within the last ten years.
These plantations, which are mostly in the neighbourhood of Loch Bosque,
face the south, and are doing well. There are besides these, clumps of
natural birch on the hills, and some alder and willow scrub around the
lochs and along the river sides.
The greater part of the parish of Fodderty, situated
to the east of Contin, is taken up by the estate of Strathpeffer
belonging to the Duchess of Sutherland, which stretches from the Loch
Broom Road at Garbat over the summit of Ben Wyvis down to within little
more than a mile from Dingwall. The valley of Strathpeffer is bounded on
the south by the conical cliff and range of Knockfarrel, and on the
north by the richly wooded Tulloch hills, the
lowest of a succession of terraced elevations that culminate in Ben
Wyvis, which here towers high above all, but whose huge bulk and gradual
slope prevent even that monarch of mountains from creating an impression
corresponding with his great height. About a mile from Dingwall, on the
south side of the road to Strathpeffer, we come to notice Fodderty Hill
plantation, the first on the Duchess of Sutherland's Strathpeffer
estate. Its situation on the north-eastern slope of the Knockfarrel
range, at an altitude ranging from 400 feet to 600 feet, is very
picturesque as seen from the coach or railway, in passing up this
fertile valley. The extent is about 150 acres, which was formerly
covered with rough pasture and furze. The trees consist chiefly of Scots
fir and larch, with a mixture of spruce, oak, elm, and beech, the
intention we believe being ultimately to thin out, so as to leave the
best of the hardwoods and fir as the permanent crop. The soil is a fair
loam of medium depth, situated on the Old Red Sandstone formation, which
comes pretty near the surface in some places, as a short distance below
the plantation, on the farm of Fodderty, there is a quarry now worn out,
but which yielded stone for many of the buildings about the "Spa." The
trees are about twenty-four years of age, and the whole plantation is at
present in a healthy and satisfactory condition. "Westwards from this,
is Knockfarrel (720 feet), surmounted by the remains of what has been
one of the largest vitrified forts in the country. Round the northern
face of this steep conical hill, and along the narrow ridge to the west,
terminating in the picturesque Druimchat (Cats Back, 800 feet), with
Park Wood nestling at its base, there are about 280 acres of Scots fir,
at an average age of from forty to sixty years, intermixed with some
sound and well-grown larches. This ridge, which divides the Strathpeffer
from the Brahan estate, is entirely or mainly composed of conglomerate
rock. Running through the centre of Park Wood, which in many places is
very damp, there is a narrow belt of older trees, ranging from seventy
to eighty years of age. Douran, the next plantation of importance, is
directly opposite, on the other side of the valley, facing south, and
situated on the lower reaches of Ben Wyvis, at an altitude varying from
800 to 1000 feet above the level of the sea. The surface is covered with
short heath, and the soil consists mostly of a thin stratum of peat
overlying a hard gritty subsoil. This plantation extends to about 130
acres, which were planted in two sections, one in 18'77 and the other in
the following year, the plants used being Scots fir and larch on the
lower, and Scots fir alone on the higher and more exposed parts, a
sprinkling of birch and mountain ash being introduced for the sake of
variety. The trees, which were planted at 3 feet apart by the ordinary
cross-cut method, are making very fair progress, especially in the lower
and more sheltered spots, but in its early stages much of this
plantation suffered severely from the ravages of mountain hares, which
are numerous on Ben Wyvis. It is somewhat difficult of access, though
not far from the Strathpeffer Station on the Dingwall and Skye Railway.
Albertite has been discovered in this neighbourhood, while primary
gneiss with some schist is the prevailing rock throughout the hills on
this the north side of the valley. The less common botanical specimens
met with on Ben Wyvis are Arbutus alpina, Saxifraga oppositifolia,
Betula nana, Azalea procumbens, Alopecurus alpinus, Ajuga pyramidalis,
Lycopus europœs, Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi
and alpina, Rubus Chamœ-morus, Polypodium
Phegopteris, Salix Myrsinites, Lycopodium alpinum, Epilobium alpinum,
and Saxifraga, stellaris. About half a mile from the village
of Strathpeffer, on the left hand side, where the public road commences
to ascend from its previous dead level, is the gate lodge and shady old
avenue leading to Castle Leod, the mansion on this part of the Duchess
of Sutherland's paternal estates, held in her own right as. Countess of
Cromartie. This fine old baronial residence, beautifully overgrown with
ivy, stands on a slight eminence at the foot of a conical furze-covered
hill, Knockaulah (800 feet), surrounded by ample policies abounding in
clumps of "tall ancestral trees," and trimly kept lawns and walks. In
the list at the end are to be found particulars of many fine trees
growing in the Castle policies, more especially a magnificent Spanish
chestnut, Castanea vesca, said to be one of, if not the finest
and largest tree of the kind known in Scotland, the trunk having a girth
of 25½ feet; and there is also the remains of
a Laburnum of the Scotch variety, Cytisus Laburnum alpinus, which
Grigor says "was the largest of British growth, the trunk measuring 9
feet in circumference, a size very remarkable for a tree of the
species."
The number of beautiful specimens recorded at the end
shows that the ornamental trees around Castle Leod are finely grown, but
there are, in addition to these, many younger specimens of rare plants,
hardly large enough yet to have special mention in our limited space.
With careful management and selection, quite a good pinetum might be
established here; in fact, there is already the nucleus of a very nice
one. The credit of having planted these trees is due to the late Mrs Hay
Mackenzie, mother of the present Duchess of Sutherland, who took a warm
and most intelligent interest in the management of the trees and
plantations on the estate. In addition to those mentioned in the list,
of many of which there are several specimens here, there are plants of
the Cedrus Africana and Deodara, which, though about 30
feet high, are not well grown, and evidently too tender for this, as for
most situations where they have been tried throughout this county and
the Highlands generally. The Abies Douglasii and Taxodium
sempervirens both grow very rapidly here, but when they get above
the shelter of the surrounding trees, they lose their tops, which often
have not time to ripen. The silver fir and cypress tribes flourish and
cone beautifully, carrying just about the crop a healthy plant should
bear, but the Abies are so thickly covered that it cannot be considered
otherwise than a sign of weakness. Numerous nice trees of the Acer and
Platanus tribes are to be seen, and a few American oaks, but the oak as
a rule has not grown to any considerable size around Strathpeffer. There
are several memorial Wellingtonias, and five fine lime trees, which
though not all situated near each other are very similar, and seem to
have been planted at the same time. There is a quantity of good
evergreens, and the avenue is lined by two trees often found together,
viz., the ash and sycamore, which stand so close that the ground is
seemingly much exhausted, as a row of nice limes, planted in front of
them some years ago, are stunted and not thriving well. The
Pinguicula lusitanica and Melampyrum sylvaticum are found
near Castle Leod. The eastern and southwestern exposures of Knockaulah,
along with a strip facing north, extending in all to about 90 acres,
were planted in sections eight years ago, with a mixture of hardwoods,
Scots fir, and larch, the latter predominating on the lower half. This
plantation is also doing well, though it seems to have been considerably
checked in its first stages by the attacks of rabbits and a dense growth
of whins, which have given the stems a dark appearance. At Ordhill (400
feet) the soil rests on a calcareo-bituminous rock—fish-bed schist of
the Old Red Sandstone system, of a laminated appearance. Here, and at
Ardivall near the head of the valley, and at Auchterneed, Blairninich,
Mill Nain, and Fodderty, 2 or 3 miles lower down, there are some mixed
beltings, comprising in all about 100 acres, planted twelve to fifteen
years ago. The former two, being on better soil, consist principally of
larch and spruce, with oak, ash, chestnut, lime, and plane trees, while
the latter are mostly firs, situated on some waste gravelly patches
intersecting the larger farms which occupy the lower valley These
plantations are all well protected by wire fences, and appear to be
doing well. In the more immediate neighbourhood of the Mineral Wells
(which are now becoming so widely known), nice belts and rows of
hardwood trees, chiefly beech and limes, are intermixed with numerous
evergreen shrubs, tastefully laid out. At Nutwood very large specimens
of the wild gean, and some beautifully grown rowan trees, are to be
seen; while here, and at Inchvannie, there are considerable hazel
copses, which annually yield a plentiful crop of nuts. At Inchvannie
House there are also a few fairly good Lombardy poplars. The
Strathpeffer plantations, mostly planted within the last twenty years,
together with the trim beech and thorn hedges, and well pruned hedgerow
trees, which everywhere line the roadsides, and with the clumps of
hardwoods which afford shelter and ornament to the manse and the
farm-houses of Fodderty and Keppoch, will add greatly year by year to
the fertility and amenity of Strathpeffer, while they give this pretty
valley a gentle wooded aspect, quite refreshing to the eye, close to the
wild mountain scenery of Ross-shire.
Tulloch, the property of Colonel D. H. C. E.
Davidson, occupies the greater part of the parish of Dingwall.
The roadside from Humberston to Dingwall, and some of
the fields, are lined by rows of ash, plane, sycamore, lime, and oak
trees of considerable size, some of them, however, not being very
healthy. In and around the town of Dingwall there are very few trees of
any importance, except, a row of finely foliaged beeches and limes round
the sides of Bridaig Park, and in the well-kept grounds of Dingwall
Castle, rows of oak trees at the Rifle Range, and a few poplars here and
there. Dingwall, however, is picturesquely situated in the opening of
the valley of Strathpeffer, the slopes on either side being beautifully
wooded, and as the soil is rich and productive, the general aspect is in
the highest degree pleasing. Clothing the hillside north of the town,
are the fine old woods surrounding Tulloch Castle, on which estate there
are about 300 acres of woodlands, consisting mainly of hardwoods,
situated on the rich soil of the low grounds, and scattered in clumps
and hedgerows along the slopes of Docharty and Brae, with numerous
narrow belts of good Scots fir spread over the high ground. Most of the
Tulloch Wood has a southern exposure, except a few thin patches of
hardwoods and fir, situated at Greenhill, and again about a mile from
the town, on the left side of the road to Strathpeffer, which face
northwards. The altitude of the hardwoods ranges from 30 to 200 feet,
and that of the conifers from 200 to 1000 feet above sea-level. The
soil, which is of good quality, varying from a fair loam on the slopes
of Tulloch to a stiff clay on the flats below Docharty, rests on the Old
Red Sandstone formation. The farms on the Tulloch estate are well
sheltered by numerous belts and hedgerows, principally oak and elm,
whose roots strike deeper than most trees, and are consequently less
dependent on the surface soil for their support, and being late in
expanding their leaves they do not overshadow the young crops in their
vicinity early in the season. Below Brae, the road to Strathpeffer is
lined by old oak trees growing out of a thorn hedge on the one side, and
a particularly fine beech one on the other, which latter is quite 7 feet
in height, and as many in breadth at the bottom. The trees on both sides
of the principal approach consist of all the common kinds of hard woods,
but not of great size or value, mixed with some very fine larch and
spruce, which both seem to thrive well. In the fields to the east and in
the belts above Kinnairdy, there are one or two large oak and beech
trees, and a few good spruce and elm. At Tulloch Castle some beautiful
specimens of silver fir and cypress grow on the lawn amid a large
quantity of evergreens. At the farm-houses of Docharty and Brae there
are a few ornamental trees, especially at Brae, where also some nice
young poplars and a large elm or two are to be seen. The most of the
timber on Tulloch estate is old, and the woods, still very fine, have
evidently contained many giant trees, which have come to maturity, and
been removed. There is scope, therefore, for a deal of judicious
planting on this property.In the next two parishes,
Kiltearn and Alness, the principal proprietors are Sir Charles Munro of
Fowlis, Mr John Munro of Swordale and Lemlair, Mr Munro of Teaninich,
and Mr R. C. Munro-Ferguson of Novar.
Between the Highland Railway and the western shore of
the Cromarty Firth, north of the Tulloch Woods, there are belts and
clumps of old hardwood trees, principally ash. elm, and beech, with a
few spruce and birch trees, and several thorn and beech hedges. The
farm-houses on the Mountgerald estate are surrounded by more belts of
old hardwoods, and the fields are divided by ash and elm hedgerows. At
Ardullie Lodge, on the Fowlis property, there are several strips of
similar old hardwoods, mixed with Scots fir and spruce, and a few nice
ornamental trees and shrubs. Below Ardullie farm-house there are a few
young larch and spruce, and round the house some Egyptian poplars and
good hedges. Near Fowlis Station a narrow belt of old oak and beech,
mixed with Scots fir, runs up a burnside from the sea-shore to Fowlis
Castle, where there are some fine beech and ornamental plants. Further
north is a considerable extent of hardwood, principally beech, ash, elm,
and chestnut, and the fields are divided by hedgerows of ash trees. At
Milton, situated on the hill north-west of Fowlis, there are some
patches of old birch, ash, and alder along the river side, while higher
up at Scurrahcleigh a considerable extent of young plantation, from
twelve to fifteen years old, is apparently thriving well. Lower down,
the Alness river is lined by natural grown birch and alder. Along the
avenue and around the mansion-house of Balconie, the property of Mrs
Reid, there are some splendid hardwoods, including fine specimens of
ash, elm, plane, and poplar, one magnificent lime with a luxuriant side
growth and enormous spread of branches, and two fine plane trees. On the
Swordale estate a good deal of planting has been done within the last
sixteen years, there being now about 200 acres of thriving young
plantation on the property, besides old hardwoods and birch, and some
ornamental trees around Swordale House.
On the Novar estates there are nearly 2000 acres
under wood, which taking it as a whole may be said to be considerably
the best in Ross-shire, both in quality and in extent of mature timber.
On the south side of the Altgrande Burn, running up the right side of
the frightful Black Rock chasm for more than a mile behind the village
of Evanton, is a large extent of Scots fir and larch, chiefly the
latter. The Scots fir is sound and good, and those of the larch which
are not royed are also of fine quality. This disease, however, is of
frequent occurrence here. All this wood has lately been sold, 80 acres
being cut clean, and the rest removed as marked by the estate forester.
There is at present a steam engine on the ground cutting it up into fine
sleepers and staves. Along the sea-shore and at Newton there are
large-sized hardwoods, including elm, beech, oak, and birch; while Novar
House stands among a few ornamental trees and some more hardwoods. Round
the farm-houses here clumps of hardwoods grow, the road and field sides
being also lined with beech, oak, plane, and ash trees, but there are
few or no hedges on the estate. Passing up the left side of the
Altgrande above Evan-ton bridge, we come to a belt of poor stunted old
oak, which merges further up into a considerable wood, consisting of
oak, elm, beech, larch, Scots fir, and spruce, of which it contains some
nice specimens, especially of beech, Scots fir, and spruce, but growing
amid a considerable undergrowth of ash, birch, alder, and hazel scrub
(very few of these latter trees being clean timber or thriving), and
numerous creeping shrubs. At Assynt House there are a few ornamental
trees and several old elm, ash, oak, plane, and beech, bounded to the
eastwards by a considerable extent of Scots fir and larch, containing
some fine timber. Close to Assynt House is one of the three nurseries
carried on on this property, which are well stocked with healthy-looking
seedlings, intended for planting up a large spread of heathery hillside
situated to the west of the fine Meno-crock plantation. We understand
that seed has been collected in these woods, but that it is not the
custom on the estate to grow home seedlings. The most of the Novar Wood
is mature, and from the quality of some specimens we observed lying cut,
it should yield very reliable and valuable seed; however, there has,
with the exception of small patches on Fyrish Hill and at the foot of
Meno-crock, been little or no extent planted for the last eighty years.
On the ridge 2 miles west of Evanton, with a southern
exposure, opposite the Swordale plantations, there is a fine wood of
Scots fir about sixty years old, and very sound and healthy. This is
called the Glen or Altgerach Wood, and grows on a black peaty soil above
gravel and blue clay. Two miles beyond this there is a
clump of very fine old Scots fir standing in a very bleak exposure.
North-east of Glen Wood, a considerable extent of Scots fir, called
Dingwall's Wood, is situated; it also contains timber of fine quality
and large size.
Covering the southern and south-eastern faces of Meno-crock
Hill, and stretching westwards behind Assynt House, there is a splendid
wood of Scots fir and larch, but chiefly Scots fir, except on the
outskirts to the west and north, where there are some really very fine
larches. This is called Dalziel Wood, and the trees are of varying age,
growing on a black loam above blue clay on the lower, and a light gravel
overlying conglomerate on the higher parts. A short distance into the
interior of this wood from Novar House patches of better soil exist, and
here the trees are elm, oak, beech, and ash, which, with the exception
of the beech, are all unhealthy looking and not valuable timber. The
larch, a good many of which are marked for sale, are truly magnificent
both in size and quality.
Their average cubical contents must be very high, and
the timber of several we observed lying cut was of the very highest
market value. One or two stumps of recently removed trees evidenced
heart-rot, but these were situated along the steep side of a road which
runs through the wood, and the rot was very probably caused by too
severe a strain on the central root during a high wind. Below this road
the ground is level, and the Scots fir have not done so well; indeed,
the size of the larch here, as afore-mentioned, is surprising,
considering that the soil is very wet, and requires drainage badly.
Immediately above the road, the Meno-crock Hill rises
steeply, and is covered with a dense growth of brackens and long, rank
heather, which proclaim a fair soil. Here it is that some of the very
finest Scots fir in the north are to be seen. Their appearance, with
dark massive trunks, and 40 feet of perfectly clean bole, standing in
such numbers and with such a splendid average size, is rarely to be
equalled anywhere. The beautifully clean grown condition of this timber,
quite equal to the best foreign wood, tells of careful and discriminate
thinning and management. The trees are very old and quite matured.
Higher up, advantage has been taken of more level
ground to insert some larch, which, however, are not so large or so old
as those lower down, nor in quite such healthy condition. There are
here, also, some spruce and a silver fir or two ; while above this, and
right up to the summit of Meno-crock, the wood again consists entirely
of splendid old Scots fir. Behind Meno-crock, in the hollow between it
and Fyrish Hill, there is a large extent of Scots fir about forty years
old, most of it sound and good. Though still very thick, we understand a
good many props were cut out of it about sixteen years ago. On the
outskirts of this wood some patches of native Scots fir occur, which,
however, is not of great size. Behind and west of Meno-crock the
youngest Scots fir timber on the property is situated. On the southern
side, and below Fyrish, there are some of the finest Scots fir and larch
on the property, fully equal in quality to that in the Dalziel Wood
already spoken of. High up on the southern face of Fyrish Hill some fine
Scots fir stand, but have to contend with a poor soil and very bleak
exposure. Eight round this hill there is a great extent of Scots fir and
larch wood, which is mostly sold, and now being cut. At Contlich also, a
great deal of wood has been removed within the past two years. Further
round to the west, where Fyrish Wood joins Meno-crock Wood, the trees
get more like those of the latter in size and quality, being younger,
and not so large as farther south. These woods have suffered very little
from either insects or rot; and squirrels are scarce; but many parts
require some draining. The woods are mostly enclosed by wire fences and
stone dykes.
At Teaninich, in the parish
of Alness, there are belts of spruce, fir, and larch from twelve to
fifteen years old, thriving nicely. Very large hardwoods line the
sea-shore and surround the house, as also some fine purple beeches and
ornamental trees enclosed by good hedges.
At Culhill of Alness there are fine old Scots fir
woods mixed with larch and spruca on the outskirts, and also good hedges
and dykes surrounding some pretty clumps of hardwoods and ornamental
trees.
3. Easter Ross.
This division comprehends the lower lying districts
of Ross-shire, along the shores of the Cromarty Firth, and "here green
fields, thriving hedges and plantations beautify and enrich the
landscape." The exposure in the main is eastern, the soil being
generally a good loam, approaching clay, over a subsoil composed of
sand, gravel, and friable clay, which in fact is the debris of the Old
Red Sandstone formation. The easterly winds, however, are invariably
bitterly cold, and when they prevail in spring young plants frequently
sustain heavy damage by their blasting influence. Originally the eastern
districts of Ross and Cromarty were intersected with numerous small
lochs and swampy bogs, hut most of these have now been drained away, and
either brought under cultivation or planted. The old land has also been
drained over and over again, and this, combined with extensive planting,
has made the climate of the east warmer, more equable, and drier than it
had ever been before.
Beginning with the parish of Rosskeen, we come to
notice the woods on the very valuable and extensive east coast property
of Sir Alexander Matheson, Bart. of Lochalsh, the late member for the
county, which, according to Mr Macdonald's report, has been the scene of
as extensive improvements as were ever attempted in this country by a
single proprietor, and a full and most interesting report of which was
sent to the Highland Society in 1858 by the lute agent, Mr Mackenzie of
Achanduinie. In 1876 there were 5000 acres of wood on the east coast
estates, divided into fifty-six plantations and forty-three clumps. The
trees are Scots fir and larch on the higher, and the same, mixed with
hardwoods and various ornamental pines, on the lower ground. The
plantations date back to the year 1847, and there has been more or less
planted every year since that time. They are mostly in a thriving
condition, the larches being particularly good, and growing more rapidly
than the Scots fir on the soils suited to them. The expense of plants
and planting, including the preparation of the ground, ranges from £3 to
£5 an acre, according to the size of the plantation and the kind of
trees. The fences are stone where available ; in other places they are
of wire and iron, and wire and wood. The woods are all thoroughly
drained, and roads are made as required, to be suitable for taking out
thinnings.
There is also a small nursery here, for lining young
plants, but all the seedlings are purchased from Inverness or Edinburgh
nurseries. The best time, at Ardross, for planting are the months of
March and April, though we understand many of the older plantations were
planted in open weather from November to May. Scots fir and larch are
planted by the slit method, at 3 feet apart on the moorland soil, and
from 4 to 5 feet on good low ground. The extensive hill plantations are
thinned during summer, and the others from October till April. The
cross-cutting of pit-props is clone at a price per dozen props, of 6
feet in length. There is not much old wood on the estate, and all that
is cut is needed for estate purposes. The dead branches of Scots fir and
larch are removed by means of a pruning bill made here, which breaks
them off with a down stroke, and with which one man will do as much work
as three with the ordinary bill, and with much less exertion to himself.
At Knocknairu there is a plantation thirty-four years old, and another,
planted five years ago, both of which are on ground which gave a former
good crop of timber, and are doing well. In the policies around Ardross
Castle, one of the finest castellated buildings in Scotland,
delightfully situated in the valley of the Alness, some very fine
hardwoods, principally beech, elm, plane, ash, oak, and poplar, are to
be seen, as well as some nice Scots fir, spruce, and larch, specimens of
which are given in the list at the end. The pleasure grounds around
Ardross Castle extend to 700 acres, and contain fine specimens of
Araucaria, Wellingtonia, Picea nobilis, P. cephalonica, Nordmanniana,
Abies orientalis, Abies Douglasii, Abies excelsa, and numerous other
very good lawn trees. A good many species have been recently introduced,
but much cannot be said about them until they have stood a winter or
two. The hedgerows, which are well and carefully planted, consist of
beech, elm, plane, ash, oak, and many other hardwood trees. The first
three thrive wherever the soil is good, and the ash and oak do well
after being transplanted. A great deal of transplanting was done on the
Ardross estates from twenty-five to thirty years ago, and though there
is not so much now, a buggy is still kept for that purpose. Numerous
clumps of mixed hardwood and spruce line the fields, fences, and
roadsides, and the banks of the river and burns in all directions. At
Dalmore there is a small sea-side plantation, but the salt breeze has
had no effect on the trees so far. The Ardross "Woods are exposed
towards all points of the compass, and stand at an altitude ranging from
sea-level to 1500 feet above it. Winds in the spring blow from the S.E.,
in autumn from the S.W., and in winter from the N.E. The greater extent
of wood is on a moorish surface, with peaty soil above gravel.
The Old Red Sandstone and conglomerate rocks prevail.
During long snowstorms many of the young hardwoods have suffered from
hares and rabbits, and the hill plantations from mountain hares.
Squirrels are well kept down.
On the estate of Mr R. B. Æ.
MacLeod of Cadboll there are about 150 acres of wood, principally
hardwoods and Scots fir, at present, but we understand several hundred
acres of woodland were reclaimed into arable land of fair quality since
1850. The chief part of the woods are in the neighbourhood of
Invergorden Castle, which is situated above the town of Inver-gordon,
with a fine view of the Cromarty Firth and the opposite Sutors of
Cromarty and Nigg. The soil generally over the property is light, sharp
land, either on boulder clay, gravel, or the Old Bed Sandstone.
There is a strip of Scots fir above the railway as it
approaches Invergordon Station, which has not thriven well, many of the
trees, very small for their age, being mere branchless poles to a
considerable height, probably caused by the hurtful effect of exposure
to the salt spray, as the ground is near to the sea-level, rising with a
gradual ascent and exposed to the prevailing wind. Coming next to the
magnificent policies around Invergordon Castle, we find some really
splendid hardwoods, while the beech avenue is particularly fine. Along
the approach from Invergordon, and in tastefully selected spots about
the lawns, there are growing some fine foreign pines and various other
plants of an ornamental description. Beyond Invergordon, stretching from
the sea-shore on the east to Inverbreakie Farm, there is a very thriving
belt of Scots fir from thirty to forty years old, and a few other mixed
beltings, planted within the past few years. Some fine larch are also to
be found on Cadboll estate. Newmore, the property of Mr George Inglis,
lies to the N.W. of Cadboll, and contains about 300 acres of wood, which
consists principally of old Scots fir and larch. A large extent of
finely-matured larch and fir is at present being cut, to be converted
into railway sleepers; and the remainder of this wood, formerly about
200 acres, contains some fine large trees, which are also apparently
very sound. There is another plantation, with a northerly exposure, also
of fir and larch, but only from twenty to thirty years old, which is
thriving better now, but has evidently suffered much from squirrels.
Around the mansion-house some very fine specimens of oak, elm, and ash,
and also a few beltings of spruce, were planted, and are growing nicely.
Westwards from Newmore is Kincraig, belonging to Mr
R. Mackenzie. This estate has a southern exposure, and the woods, which
extend to between 50 and 60 acres, consist principally of hardwoods at
various ages. Around the mansion-house there are large ash, elm, oak,
and plane trees, besides some nice pine and other ornamental trees;
while close at hand are recently planted belts of spruce, larch, and
Scots fir. Further away, behind the mansion-house, there is a
considerable extent, composed of fir and larch, with some old elm and
beech. The north side of the county road here is sheltered by a
plantation •of fir and beech of various ages. The ground being full of
damp mossy hollows, many of the trees have not done well, but on dry
mounds they appear to be larger and better grown. Below the road to
Alness there are some 10 acres of hardwoods, which are not in a thriving
condition.
Passing to the north-east, we enter the parish of
Kilmuir Easter, which consists of a narrow belt of land extending inland
from the shores of the Cromarty Firth. The lower part has a rich fertile
soil, and is highly cultivated; while a great deal of the higher
grounds, which formerly consisted of barren moor with a mixture of
natural wood, has now been successfully planted. At Polio there is a 12
acre plantation of young fir and larch, belonging to Sir Alexander
Matheson. Situated to the west of this detached portion of the Ardross
estates, is Kindeace, the property of Mr Charles Robertson, around the
mansion-house of which some fine beech and larch trees, as well as
ornamental hardwoods and shrubs, are growing. Close by there are 5 acres
of good old Scots fir, from seventy to eighty years old, and very large,
which will yield some sound timber. Another plantation of Scots fir and
larch, from fifteen to thirty years old, with a northerly exposure, is
situated on a sandy soil resting on clay.
At Kinrive there is a plantation about a mile in
length by a quarter mile through, of thin natural Scots fir of rather
scrubby growth, while the upper banks of the Balnagown Water are fringed
with some finely grown specimens of weeping birch.
On the farm of Broomhill, a detached portion of the
Kincraig estate marching with Kindeace on the east and with Ardross on
the north, there are from 10 to 15 acres of Scots fir growing on a poor
sandy soil, and of rather a stunted appearance.
We next come to the magnificently wooded property of
Balnagown, belonging to the representatives of the late Sir Charles
Ross, Bart., recently deceased, which is undoubtedly one of the best and
most extensively wooded estates in Ross-shire. At Rhives House there is
a 10 acre belt of good old oak, and in the grounds around it some of the
largest plane trees to be found in the whole county grow, besides very
fine purple beeches and foreign ornamental pines, while the approach is
bordered by large sized oaks and elms. At Scotsburn, situated along the
south side of Balnagown Water, there is a fine plantation of Scots fir
almost forty years old, and extending over some 300 acres. This has a
southern exposure, and the soil is a light loam resting on rock, and in
some places on clay. North-east of Scotsburn a very thriving plantation
of fir and larch was planted some three years ago, and called the
Wilderness Wood. It covers about 200 acres, which we are told bore a
former crop of fir, which was all cut from fifteen to twenty years ago.
The trees are in a most thriving condition, the ground having been
thoroughly drained, and the whole well enclosed by a stone wall and wire
fence. A great many nice natural birch trees are interspersed throughout
this wood.
Adjoining it is the "Bog of Balnagown" Wood, having
about 150 acres still standing, which is only half the original extent
under timber. It consists of Scots fir and larch from seventy to ninety
years old, growing with a southern exposure on very sandy soil. In the
policies around the fine old Castle of Balnagown, there are numerous
belts and clumps of splendid trees, chiefly hardwoods, of which some
truly magnificent specimens are to be seen, including also immense
spruce, larch, and fir trees. The grounds are very fine, and are studded
over with some of the very best larch, elm, and ash in the whole county,
besides beautiful rock elms, and a thriving collection of foreign pines
and evergreens, bordered by well-kept hedges. The soil over the
Balnagown estate is generally light, except on 1500 acres, which are
heavy clay; and the woods are almost on the level, with if anything a
northerly exposure. A considerable extent, which was formerly under
wood, has been reclaimed on this estate. Eastward from the castle is the
old fir rookery, where there are some very large trees, probably about
300 years old. They are still healthy, and stand thinly over about 40
acres of ground, which has a southern exposure, and a few years ago was
planted up with an undergrowth of spruce and larch along the river side.
The young spruce are very healthy and promising, but the larch are not
thriving. At Achoyle, west of the Balnagown policies, there are Scot3
fir of large size, and belts of oak, elm, and ash, with nice ornamental
trees of various ages. Here there is also a young mixed belt of fir,
larch, spruce, and hardwoods, while some nice hedges and hedgerows
enclose the farm-steading. The present extent of wood belonging to
Balnagown, in this parish, is about 1100 acres, as against 400, seven
years ago, every year several acres being cut down and more planted.
Between Balnagown and the Firth are the fine woods on
the Duchess of Sutherland's Tarbat estate. The farthest south is Kildary
plantation, which is situated close to the policies of Balnagown Castle.
It formerly consisted of 8 acres of Scots fir, which, after having been
well thinned from time to time, was sold standing last year for £341,
and is at present being cut up into railway sleepers. Alongside this
patch of old wood 11 acres of fir and larch were planted in 1862, which
has thriven tolerably well, except for the attacks of squirrels, which
have got in from the neighbouring woods. At Tullich there are 70 acres
of Scots fir and larch, chiefly the latter, about forty years old, and
unfortunately rather thin on the ground as the soil is a cold, wet
moorland pan, difficult of drainage, and insufficiently drained; the
trees are in consequence not in a good condition, and there is a good
deal of "blister" to be seen, At Priesthill there are about 20 acres of
younger wood, planted twenty-nine years ago, and thriving much better
than Tullich. The Logie and Balachraggan plantation consists of 109
acres of Scots fir and larch, but mostly Scots fir planted in 1871, and
doing remarkably well.
Around this are 70 acres of Scots fir of the very
finest timber quality, being the remains of splendid old Scots fir which
once occupied the whole area. This old wood was at one time grazed by
sheep, and they destroyed the natural growth of fir which was springing
up as the wood got thinner. What has escaped of this natural growth of
fir, along with a good many young larch, the seed for which was probably
blown in from the fine Logie Wood belonging to Balnagown, are much
better than the purchased and planted trees. In connection with the
plantations at Tarbat, there is a nursery for beating up, which at
present contains a nice lot of young larch and Scots fir, 1 year
seedlings 2 years' transplanted, destined to plant the 8 acre wood in
course of being cut at Kildary. A good deal of the waste ground being
wet, it is the custom at Tarbat to plant in the Spring time. Along the
roadside from Milton to Tornabrock, there is a considerable belt of
hardwoods, with a few Scots fir, larch, and spruce, which, except a
strip of older wood along the east side, is about forty-six years old,
and the timber is sound and good. The trees consist chiefly of oak,
beech, elm, ash, and Spanish chestnut, and the soil is fairly good, some
of it having formerly been under cultivation. Near Tornabrock avenue,
however, it changes to a white sand, which must have more feeding
properties than one would suppose from its appearance, as there are here
some particularly good larch, Scots fir, and limes, apparently quite
sound, and about ninety years old. In the north-west part of Tornabrock
Wood the limes and beeches are good, but the Scots fir, larch, and
spruce, though of rapid growth, have a deal of roy. Further south the
Scots firs are magnificent; indeed, seldom are such large specimens seen
growing together in this county, while on the southern outskirt there
are a few nice beeches. The soil here is peaty moss overlying fine white
sand. The larch are numerous on the east side, but some are not very
sound; however, their average height is great, and they will yield large
numbers of fencing posts. The wood is interspersed with walks lined by a
considerable growth of evergreens, which are well suited to the damp
mossy soil. Tornabrock avenue is bordered by a few old beech and elm,
and some large spruce, larch, and silver firs. At Polnicol farm, away to
the south-west of Tornabrock, there is a clump of Scots fir and larch
about forty years old, and a row of hardwoods. Along the shore near
Tornabrock a belt of hardwoods was planted for shelter, and contains
also a fine specimen of silver fir, Picea pedinata, Further east,
at a point where the sea breeze has full play, clumps of Scotch fir were
planted forty years ago, and like every tree that has been tried, has
more or less been stunted in growth, a single exception being the
Pinus Pinaster maritima. In the "Ladies' Well" Wood there are some
very fine larches, growing among birch, elm, oak, and ash, besides
several large Scots fir, many of which have been killed outright by the
crows nesting among their tops. The forester says that on felling some
of these he found considerable damage had also been done by gunshot
penetrating the young bark, at the top of the tree, and causing resinous
accumulations. In the park below there are fine beeches, two in
particular, which are said to commemorate heads of the Cromartie family,
with four younger trees in front representing their children. These
trees, however, are probably over 200 years old, and much information
cannot be obtained about them. Very fine Rhododendrons, holly hedges,
and well-dressed evergreen bushes, surround the gardens; while there are
also some pretty birch and holly trees, and a row of Pinus excelsa,
which however are not thriving, often having lost their tops.
Among the ornamental trees around and to the north of the
gardener's lodge, are the Cedrus Deodara, and "the patriarch of
the Cedar tribe" the Cedrus Libani (the latter planted when the
late Earl of Cromartie came of age), Cupressus Nutkaenis, Picea
Nordmamiiana, amabilis, Webbiana, and cephalonica, Abies
lasio-carpa and orientalis, Sequoia gigantea, Taxodium
sempervirens, Pinus Cembra and excelsa, besides numerous
Irish yews and weeping ash. In "The Grove" below the gardens, on a
richly loamy soil, there is a collection of the most magnificent beech
interspersed with limes, several of the latter which had fallen having
been raised and very successfully pollarded. Here there are also good
specimens of hornbeam and hoary poplar, and a fine large Norway maple.
Numerous well-trimmed and thriving beech hedges border the walks and
lanes in every direction, while several of the fields are also enclosed
by them. Crossing the river (Balnagown Water) into the parish of Logie
Easter, is a remarkably good timber and chain bridge, which carries the
private carriage drive over a pretty wide span at quite a romantic and
beautiful part of the Grove. This bridge, which has been designed and
constructed with great ingenuity and skill by the forester Mr Purves, is
on the suspension principle, and while very substantial, is light and
rustic in appearance. Several exceedingly pretty footbridges are to be
seen at various points across this same stream, which were also designed
by Mr Purves, and constructed we think at wonderfully little expense.
The writer will be happy to supply their designs and specifications to
any gentleman desiring to have them.
On the north side of the river, is Meddat Wood, which
at one time consisted almost wholly of ash, and which has lately been
well drained and planted up with mixed hardwoods and spruce, while
numerous ornamental trees have been put in along the sides of the
carriage drive. There are still some magnificent ash standing here, the
timber of which it is said is about the best in the county. Meddat Wood
has a dense undergrowth of evergreens, young ash, and hardwoods of
natural growth. Near Meddat farm there are 150 acres of plantation about
eighteen years old, consisting of Scots fir and larch growing on heathy
moorland. There are about 20 acres of old hardwood plantation on the
lower ground, which was planted up again twenty years ago. Lower down
still stands a larch belt mixed with hardwoods, which is doing well. It
is so near the level of the sea that high tides come up the open drains.
Marching with the Cromartie plantations, in the
parish of Logie, we come to some more on the estate of Balnagown,
covering about 1000 acres, and of various ages. Marybank Wood consists
of 100 acres of good sound Scots fir, from forty to fifty years old,
standing on a light clay soil, with a southerly exposure. A strip of
larch and Scots fir, only five or six years old, marches with this, the
whole extent being enclosed by a wire fence. There is another extensive
plantation at Wester Laming-ton, situated to the west of Marybank Wood.
The trees are Scots fir of natural growth from an old wood cut down
about twenty years ago. Round its southern side, a strip of larch and
hardwoods has been recently planted, and is so far doing well. Marching
with Logie Wood on the Cromartie estate, we next come to another of the
same name belonging to Balnagown. It consists of large Scots fir and
larch, from fifty to sixty years old, mixed at the east end with oak,
elm, and beech, of no great value. The larch are particularly fine
trees, for while in this wood we came upon some of the Balnagown
forester's squad felling a few of them, and these afforded samples of
very fine timber, firm in texture, and almost as red as mahogany. Two
men began the work by cutting a strip with the axe round the tree, in
order to let the saw run more easily, which process is here called
"dobbing," and is considered very difficult to do well without
sacrificing much timber, but these men seemed to be quite expert at it,
striking very rapidly, and giving a beautiful finish to the trunk.
Logie Wood has been a good deal thinned, and is now
about half Scots fir and half larch, the latter averaging quite 20,
while some will yield 30 cubic feet of timber, worth from 12d. to 15d.
per cubic foot. The surface is undulating, and covered in some places
with heath and in others with long grass. The soil is sandy, and has a
northern aspect. Linster Park Wood, lying west of Logie, is a large
young plantation of Scots fir and larch, with a few silver fir here and
there, and is situated on gravelly soil, with a southern exposure. The
soil, though naturally dry, evidently rests on a cold wet bottom, and
hence, the surface being undulating, it is only on the higher mounds
that the trees can be said to have done at all well. At the south end a
few old beeches remain out of a large mixed wood, which we understand
contained fine larches, and from which it is more than probable the seed
of much the best larch in Linster Park plantation was blown, as the
natural growth appears far healthier, and in every way superior to the
planted, pointing to the probable foreign origin of the latter. Linster
plantation is well enclosed by good wire fences. Round the Manse of
Logie there are a few hardwoods, and for a mile along each side of the
parliamentary road below it, two fine beech hedges, backed by a strip of
rock elm, oak, and purple beech.
Marching with part of Tarbat on the south, and with
Balnagown on the north-west, is Shandwick property, under trustees of
the late Capt. A. G. Reid, on which there are some very large and
valuable Scots fir, larch, and spruce, over 200 acres in extent, and
probably from 80 to 100 years old. It stands partly on clayey and partly
on a sandy soil, facing north. The hedgerows on this property are
numerous and good, containing some large elms, but the hedges are poor
and neglected. The mansion-house is old and dilapidated, but surrounded
by magnificent hardwoods, consisting of planetree, ash, elm, beech, and
poplar, with some fine ornamental pines and evergreens on the lawn, and
one magnificently grown cedar.
Here and again at Ethie on the Rosehaugh property in
the Black Isle, there is an amphitheatre of lias limestones.
On the estate of Arabella (Mr James Gordon),
north-east of Shandwick, there are about 10 acres of hardwood belts,
comprising oak, ash, elm, and beech, about forty years old, and
apparently thriving. They stand with a southern exposure on a strong
clay soil. The mansion-house is sheltered by fine large oak, larch, and
Scots fir, while along the march with Shandwick to the sea-shore there
is a strip of larch and Scots fir about forty years old, and not
valuable. Hedgerows line the field sides, and are doing very well, but
the hedges are poor here also.
Calrossie, the property of Mr Andrew Hall, lies
north-west of Arabella, and on it there are 500 acres of woodlands,
comprising Scots fir, larch, and various hardwoods. At Calrossie House,
and along the county road to Fearn, grow some oak, beech, ash. and elm
trees of very old standing. Near the gardener's house there are about a
dozen Scots fir trees, probably 200 years old, and of Large dimensions,
also some pretty specimens of Wellingtonia and other foreign plants,
which seem to be growing well. The parliamentary road to Tain is
bordered by good Scots fir and larch, being the remains of a very fine
wood which was cut about twenty-five years ago. This
has a southerly exposure, and stands on gravel, though the land
over the greater part of Calrossie estate is a good loam, with here and
there patches of stiff clay. The numerous clumps of wood surrounding the
fields here is given as a reason for insufficient drying of corn in the
stook.
Turning now towards the north-east coast, we enter
the parish of Nigg, which consists of a fertile slope rising in the hill
of Nigg (500 feet), and reaching down to the bay of Nigg. About the
farm-house of Culliss, on the Shandwick estate, grow a few old
hardwoods; and some very good younger beltings, also of hardwood, were
planted about eighteen years ago. Hedgerows and hedges about here are
poor, though at Wester Rarichie there are a few large beech and elms in
the hedgerows. On the estate of Bayfield (Mr J. Humphrey), some very
large ash, elm, and beech line the avenue to Bayfield House; and a
thriving belt of hardwood shelters the road to the ferry to Cromarty.
This belt is about thirty years old, and is situated on a reddish loam
overlying sandstone rock, with a northern exposure. On the hill of
Bayfield stands a thin old Scots fir wood, about 50 acres in extent, and
filled up with some natural undergrowth. At the schoolhouse of Nigg, on
the Pitcalnie property (Mr G. Ross), there are about 5 acres of Scots
fir and larch, mixed with oak and elm, which seems about fifteen years
old, and is apparently doing well. The west end of the parish of Nigg is
covered to the depth of nearly 2 feet with light drifting sand, which on
being removed is, according to Mr Macdonald's report, found to overlie a
deposit of the very richest black loam. If this is so, surely it would
plant at any rate as well as the sands of Morayshire, so well known.
A few large ash, elm, and oak trees form the
hedgerows on Pitculzean, the property of Mr W. H. E. Murray, but the
hedges do not appear to be thriving. At the mansion-house, and along a
burnside to the shore, there is a fine hardwood belt, which also marches
with Pitcalnie, and contains some nice trees about thirty years old.
This has a northern exposure, and grows on a good soil overlying
sandstone. By the sea-shore, along the road to Cromarty Ferry, is a
considerable extent of Scots fir wood, which, however, is much stunted
by the sea breeze. On the top of the hill of Nigg, and marching with
Castlecraig and Bayfield, is situated another large wood of Scots fir
from forty to fifty years old, which has a southern exposure, and
appears to be doing much better than the last. A few ornamental trees
and shrubs surround the house. On the estate of Westfield, also
belonging to Mr Murray, there are some more nice ash, oak, and elm
trees, and good hedgerows, as also a fir and larch plantation extending
about 10 acres, and planted for shelter from the sea breeze, which,
however, along with a poor sandy soil, has given it a very stunted
appearance. This estate has northerly exposure, and is situated right
above the sea. On the estate of Castlecraig (Col. Ross), the only trees
are a few old firs, and some hardwoods situated above the rocky shore.
Further on there is a strip of natural Scots fir, on the hill of Nigg,
belonging to Balnagown.
The remainder of the east coast here is very rocky
and precipitous, though at several spots fir woods shelter the inland
agricultural district. It terminates in the headland of Tarbat Ness,
with fishing villages scattered along it. On Allan, the property of Mr
D. Monro, in the parish of Fearn, situated north and north-west
of Nigg, there are are fine large beech, elm, ash, lime, and poplar
trees, and along the approach clumps of old hardwoods and a number of
good hedges, enclosing some of the best farmed land in the county.
Near the road to Fearn Station, Scots fir beltings,
about thirty years old, stand on a clayey soil, and are not thriving
very well: while around the farm-house of Balintore, belonging to Major
Rose of Tarlogie, there are ash, elm, and beech trees. On the Balnagown
estate, in this parish, there are a few hedges and scattered trees,
which are not growing well. On the farm of Fearn, belonging to Cadboll,
there are 10 acres of Scots fir plantation thirty years old, on a sandy
soil, with a southwestern exposure. East of Balmuchy farm is another
Scots fir wood covering about 15 acres, and not showing good growth. At
Cadboll House there are beech, elm, plane, and other hardwoods,
surrounding numerous choice pines and other trees of an ornamental
description. Here there are also some fair hedges, both of thorn and
beech, but being right above the open sea the woods naturally suffer
much from the cold wind and sea breeze. At Balmuchy farm-house are
thriving beltings, from twelve to fourteen years old, of fir and larch
mixed with beech and elm ; while behind the Free Church Manse there are
about 5 acres of Scots fir, not thriving, and situated on a poor sandy
soil with a very wet bottom. On the estate of Rhynie (Mr J. Robertson)
good beltings of Scots fir form the boundary of the property skirting
Loch Eye, and there are besides, some old hardwoods and few ornamental
trees round the farm-house of Rhynie.
On the estate of Geanies (Mr W. H. E. Murray), in
this parish, the woods merely consist of a few acres of mixed plantation
round Pitkerrie, about fourteen years old, and with a southern exposure.
On Geanies property in the parish of Tarbat, northeast of Fearn, which
parish we next enter, there are about 300 acres, consisting of beltings
of Scots fir and larch, from twenty to thirty years old, and numerous
clumps and strips of hardwoods. In the policies of Geanies House, and
along part of the county road to Portmahomack, are to be seen some good
hedges; while around the house are nice ornamental trees, and large
beech, ash, and elms extending to the edge of the cliff above the sea.
Almost the only vein of limestone in Easter Ross runs past here. A few
young hardwoods about Seafield House and some ornamental trees, besides
hardwood hedgerows and a strip of young fir and larch along the county
road to Tain, constitute the woods on the estate of Ardboll.
At the mansion-house of Rockfield, on the property of
Mr F. Munro, east of Geanies, some young mixed plantations were planted
for shelter, and are seemingly thriving very well; while on each side of
the approach there are nice hedges, and at the farm-house plane, beech,
and elm trees. At Meikle Tarrel, on the Cadboll estate, a few old
hardwood trees surround the house ; and at Cadboll Mount there are some
fine hedges of beech and black thorn and a strip of fair Scots fir about
forty years old, on deep strong soil, besides a few large-sized beech,
ash, and elm about the steading. In the parish of Tarbat the prevailing
soil is light fertile loam, lying chiefly on the Old Red Sandstone
though some of it is on gravel and boulder clay.
Entering now the parish of Tain, where it marches
with Logic, we come to notice the woods on the estate of Bogbain, under
trustees of the late Mr William Davidson, which lies northeast of
Calrossie. There are 20 to 30 acres of Scots fir and spruce planted
about fourteen years ago, which have not yet been thinned, and are not
large for their age. On some waste moor ground east of the railway,
Scots fir, ash, elm, and beech were planted five years ago, but the soil
is very stiff and retentive, and being also on the level, is very damp,
hence the trees are not thriving vigorously. The hedges, however, are
good. North-west of Calrossie are the Tainfield Woods belonging to Mrs
Murray, and comprising 150 acres of mixed Scots fir and larch thirty
years old, standing with a southerly exposure, on a clayey soil. North
of Calrossie and Tainfield is Rosemount, the property of Mrs Clarke,
round the mansion-house of which there are some large fir and larch, a
few old beech, and some younger hardwoods, planted about twenty years
ago. Situated to the south-west are about 100 acres of larch and Scots
fir, with a southern exposure, and thriving well. At Rosehill (Mr W. E.
Cattley of Edderton), there are 50 acres of Scots fir and larch, about
twenty years old, with a northerly exposure on a fair soil. There are
here also a few belts of hardwoods, planted recently. At North
Glastullich (Mr A.
Fraser) there are only a few clumps of old Scots fir, and no young
plantations. At Moorfarm (Mr D. Ross) there are 8 acres of Scots fir and
larch, about twenty years old, and in a thriving condition. A few old
beech and plane trees, and some mixed beltings, surround the house;
while the roads and many of the fields are bordered by hardwood
hedgerows. At Easter Lamington (Mr J. R. Mackenzie), marching with
Balnagown, are numerous plantations of Scots fir of various ages up to
forty years, all of natural growth, from the seed of former crops now
removed, but scrubby and not valuable as timber. They are growing on a
ridge, with both southern and northern exposures, behind the Linster
Park Wood, Marching on the north with Easter Lamington, at Mineral Bank,
belonging to Provost Vass of Tain, there is a Scots fir wood, about
forty years old, interspersed with a few larch and spruce. The soil is
wet and mossy, and the trees are stunted and not valuable. A good deal
of inferior land lies in the parish of Tain, the soil being light and
scarce, and resting on an impenetrable irony pan, hardly worth
cultivation. The sea has made considerable encroachments near Tain, and
also at Red-castle. In the town of Tain there are no clumps or even
trees of any importance whatever. West of the
town, at Highfield (Mr J, Monro) there is a belt of fir of various ages,
chiefly natural grown. To the north and out to the top of the Hill of
Tain, lies the estate of Tarlogie (Major H. L. Rose). Fine old trees of
large dimensions, beech, ash, and elm, surround Tarlogie House, and line
the approach from Tain. The rest of the wood on the estate consists of
about 200 acres of larch and fir planted some twenty-five years ago, on
ground most of which had been cleared of a former crop of timber. There
are the remains of a few thorn hedges, and also several clumps and
patches of young larch and fir. All this wood has a northerly exposure,
is situated on a clayey soil, and is enclosed by good wire fences.
Marching on the north with Tarlogie, is Edderton, in the parish of that
name, belonging to Mr W. E. Cattley. On this estate there has been a
great extent, 400 or 500 acres, planted within the last twelve years,
some of it quite recently. It consists of five mixed plantations of fir,
larch, ash, elm, oak, lime, and spruce, situated on a fair soil resting
on clay, with a northerly exposure, and all of it is well enclosed by
strong wire fences, and seems to be thriving well. The only old wood is
at Redburn, being a strip of larch and Scots fir, with some ash of very
fine growth. This little property is splendidly wooded for its size, and
has evidently been otherwise greatly improved since it came into the
hands of its present owner, about a dozen years ago. Round the northern
and south-eastern faces of Struy Hill, on the Balnagown property, there
are 200 acres of Scots fir and larch, quite recently planted, and some
enclosed extent still to plant, besides numerous other belts and clumps
of small importance. Alongside these plantations, and extending to the
top of Struy Hill, is Struy plantation, on the property of Sir A.
Matheson of Lochalsh, which consists of about 50 acres of Scots fir and
larch, chiefly the former, and is not more than ten years old. The soil
here is gravel over a subsoil of clay. Three miles farther on we come to
Mid Fearn, on the same property, where very extensive young plantations,
seven to twenty years old, have been formed where old woods once stood,
and are enclosed by iron and wire fences. There are some large beech and
elm about the Lodge of Mid-Fearn.
North-west of Edderton, is the parish of Kincardine,
lying chiefly in the valley of the River Carron. At its eastern
extremity it is narrow, but gradually it widens towards the west into
the extensive series of hills called Balnagown Forest, where it is about
20 miles in width. A number of glens and straths run up among its
numerous hills, with many pleasant streams flowing through them, thus
producing a landscape of great variety. First we come to Gledfield, the
property of Sir Alexander Matheson, Bart. of Lochalsh, lying along the
south side of the Carron. Here there are young plantations covering
about 100 acres in all, and consisting chiefly of Scots fir interspersed
with a few larch, planted at different periods varying from fourteen to
twenty years ago. They have not yet been thinned, but appear to be
thriving pretty well. They are enclosed by wire fences on the upper, and
by stone and feal dykes round the other sides. Next we come to a young
plantation of Scots fir and larch about 20 acres in extent, the property
of Lady Ross of Balnagown. This appears to be fourteen or fifteen years
old, and situated on the slope of a hill, with a northern exposure; it
seems to be doing well. On Ardgay Hill, on the same property, there are
30 or 40 acres of very old oak, and the remains of some natural Scots
fir interspersed with larch, pretty much thinned. Reaching the River
Carron, we propose, continuing on the south side of Kincardine parish by
following up that side of the river, to notice various wooded glens, and
then returning down the other side of the river, take the other wooded
estates which lie north of it. Leaving Ardgay, we come to Dunie, the
property of the Duchess of Sutherland, and Greenyards, belonging to Mr
Charles Robertson of Kindeace, on both of which estates the only trees
consist of scattered clumps of natural birch, a few-oaks, and some alder
trees. All along its lower reaches the banks and knolls about the river
are covered with natural willow and alder.
Entering Glenmore, numerous and considerable patches
of birch of large size, affording excellent cover for deer, are to be
seen extending up the river side to Deanich Lodge, a distance of nearly
6 miles. Crossing the stream here, and turning down its northern side,
we come to more large clumps of birchwood, natural grown, but of a
smaller and more scrubby nature than on the other side of the river.
This birch is young and beautiful, and being of the white-leaved silvery
variety, it contrasts splendidly with the deep purple of the heather,
and gives the valley a very pretty aspect. Passing on down the glen
through the deer forest, we find the wood consists wholly of the natural
birch, till about 2 miles from Alladale Lodge, where there are the
remains of what appears to have been a forest of natural Scots fir. A
good many specimens are still left standing, and these are of splendid
growth and quality, equal to any foreign redwood, and with every
appearance of having borne the storms of over two hundred years. They
are probably native grown, and stand with a southern exposure, on deep
moss over a clayish subsoil.
Two miles farther down, still on Sir Charles Ross'
property, stands the beautiful new Lodge of Alladale, prettily situated
among clusters of weeping birch. Entering on the estate of Picalnie, the
property of Mr G. Ross, 2 miles lower down, we come to Amat Lodge, about
10 miles from Bonar Bridge, in the policies attached to which there are
some very large beech and Scots fir, true natives, and about one hundred
years old. One interesting feature of this pretty lodge is, that you can
hook a salmon from the windows. Behind and adjacent to it, there is an 8
acre clump of Scots fir, larch, and spruce, chiefly larch, planted by
the present proprietor some thirty years ago. This is in a flourishing
condition and stands on the level ground between Amat-na-tua on the
south, and Craighouse on the north.
Below it there is a plantation of about 200 acres of
old fir, marching on the west with Sir Charles Ross' property, and on
the south with the deer forest of Glencalvie. All except a very small
part of this wood faces the south, the soil consisting of mossy gravel,
with huge boulders of whin-stone on the lower, and of shaly rock on the
higher, among which the pine roots cling. A few birch are intermixed in
the thin part along the road to Alladale, but the wood is notably fir,
many of the trees being one hundred years old, and of very large
dimensions, averaging quite 25 cubic feet of excellent timber. At a
point in this wood on the River Carron are the Amat Falls, which are
very grand when the river is in spate, and abound with salmon, thus
offering an additional attraction for sportsmen. This neighbourhood is
very picturesque, there being a good deal of birch about the braes.
Lower down we re-enter the Balnagown property, and come to "Whale Belt,"
so called because the late Sir Charles Ross had it planted in the shape
of a whale, some twenty years ago. It is now in two belts of 10 acres
each, consisting of larch and fir, with some spruce, which are all very
thriving. These woods are partly enclosed with wire fences and partly
with feal dykes, and are all well surface drained. Much, however, sadly
requires thinning. Other two miles lower down stands Braelangwell Lodge,
where there are some fine oak, elm, and larch, all of very large
dimensions and handsomely grown; while the young clumps in the grounds
round the lodge, planted for amenity and shelter, are formed of larch,
Scots fir, and some spruce; these latter were planted about twenty-three
years ago, have a very ornamental appearance, and have thriven well, All
these woods stand with a southern exposure, on mossy soil over clay.
Still two miles farther down the north side of the River Carron, we come
to the very extensive woods of Strathcarron, also the Balnagown
property. They extend 4 miles in length, by about half a mile in average
width, and consist of mixed larch and fir planted over a period of three
years, and now ranging from twenty-five to twenty-eight years old. The
surface was formerly rough heather, and is in parts rocky and steep ;
while the soil is blackish and mossy, and rests upon gravel. There are
shooting and carting,"rides" cut through this wood, and it has been
thinned annually for the last eight years. The average height of the
larch and fir is about 24, but some are quite 30 feet.
The fir, we are told, has been used for propwood,
staves, and barrel headings; while the larch has as yet been used
chiefly for fencing posts, there being very few trees large enough to
make "sleepers" of. Owing to a great variation in the size of the
timber, a lot of it being only fit for cabers, it would be almost
impossible to give a fair idea of the average cubical contents. The fir
has evidently done best, many of the larches being royed; while a great
many more, with their tops decaying, show evident signs of the "larch
disease." Marching with the Strathcarron plantations, on their eastern
side, is the property of Invercharron (Mr A. Littlejohn). It is well
wooded, and lies between the Kyle of Sutherland and the mouth of the
Carron. The woods overlook the Kyle and the fine arable farm of
Invercharron Mains. They consist chiefly of larch and fir of medium
growth, the oldest and best grown having evidently been removed; but
within the last two years a good deal of young plantation has been
formed, and fenced in clumps and belts on the hill overlooking
Invercharron, for purposes of amenity and shelter; while along the
roadsides and among the thinner parts of the old wood a great deal of
spruce and ornamental trees have been put in as undergrowth. Near the
mansion-house, and on both sides of the county road to Culrain,
well-grown and handsome specimens of larch and fir are to be seen ;
while there are some fine hardwoods, beech, and elm, with other
ornamental trees, in the grounds.
At Relonie, belonging to Mr Sidney Hadwen, about 8
acres of young plantation, consisting of Scots fir, larch, and birch,
have been formed, and the rest of the wood is made up of some old
weeping birch and oaks. Northwards from Relonie, and marching with it,
is Culrain, the property of Sheriff Simpson. On this estate several
hundred acres in extent of young wood have been planted within the past
dozen years, on a bare hillside, with a bleak northern exposure. The
trees are a mixture of larch and Scots fir, with a good deal of spruce
in the more sheltered spots, where the soil is deeper and better. Most
of these plantations, however, are on light, rocky, sandy soil, and are
all enclosed by wire fences with wooden posts, having iron droppers
between. They afford evidence of careful and judicious preparation and
planting. One very pretty feature here is Sheriff Simpson's pretty
little shooting lodge, so romantically situated on the heathery hillside
among clusters of weeping birch, and overlooking the Kyle.
The estate of Strathkyle, belonging to Mr G. G.
Mackay of Glengloy, is a model of extensive and judicious planting. The
ground now occupied by thriving plantations was at one time a bleak
desolate moor, without a tree on it. This was planted up with Scots fir
and a few larch, hardwoods and poplar being put in on the most sheltered
parts; but Scots fir, where alone, thrives best here. These plantations,
laid out within the last twelve years, contain eight and a half millions
of plants, and extend in one block over 3950 acres, being enclosed with
a ring fence of wire upwards of 20 miles in length.
Further up Strathkyle is Inveroykel, the property of
Mr. C. M. GaskelL where similar extensive plantations of Scots fir and
larch have been recently formed.
4. Wester Ross.
On its western side the county is bounded by
Applecross Sound and the southern part of the Minch. The coast line here
is very much indented, and exceedingly rugged and winding, indeed, so
irregular is it that, following the sinuosities of the shore and the
numerous lochs and bays running in, it measures over 300 miles, though
traced in a straight line it is only about 70. Although this division
certainly comprehends the main body of the county, it consists almost
entirely of high hills and sheep grazings; and its woods being of no
great extent or value, we shall merely refer briefly to the best wooded
estates.
The rainfall of Ross-shire varies to a considerable
extent, being given at 30 to 70 inches on the west and 30 to 50 on the
east. The difference is to some extent explained by the fact, that the
winds, which for eight months of the year blow between the points S.W.
and N.W., travel over the wide Atlantic, and the rugged hills on the
west cause them to discharge most of this moisture before they reach the
east coast.
Beginning with the parish of Glenshiel, there are on
the Kintail estate, the property of Mr J. T. Mackenzie, only a few
clumps of Scots fir near three of the farm-houses, and some natural
wood, birch, alder, and hazel near Shiel Hotel. On the Glenshiel estate,
the property of Mr J. E. B. Baillie of Dochfour, there is a patch of
larch, below which Loch Duich,
"The outstretched lake embosomed 'mong the hills,
The eye with wonder and enchantment fills."
The trees are about fifty years old, and are now
being cut for local requirements. There is another strip of larch about
forty years old near, and a considerable extent around the farm house of
Ratagan.
Near the Parish Church, and on the estate of
Letterfearn, belonging to Sir Alexander Matheson, there is a strip of
wood, several hundred yards wide, extending from the sea to the top of
the hill. It consists of larch, spruce, and various kinds of hardwood.
At the end of Loch Duich is the Drudaig Wood, over a mile in extent, and
consisting mainly of larch, spruce, and hardwood (beech, oak, ash, &c).
On this estate there is also a large amount of natural wood, chiefly
ash, oak, alder, and hazel.
The next two parishes to the north of Glenshiel, are
Kintail and Lochalsh, but with the exception of Strathglass, in Kintail,
lying in the valley of the River Beauly, they belong entirely to Sir
Alexander Matheson, M.P.
At Inverinate, on the north side of Loch Duich, there
is a large plantation, about thirty-five years old, and some trees of
longer growth, the whole extending over perhaps 1000 acres, and
consisting of larch, spruce, and mixed hardwood. On the side of Loch
Ling, a plantation about twenty years old forms the march between the
farms of Bundalloch and Camusluinnie; and there is another of the same
age at the end of the loch near the junction of the rivers Ling and
Elchaig. Along the side of Loch Duich for nearly three miles natural
wood, chiefly oak, ash, alder, hazel, and birch, abounds.
These woods are all in Kintail, where the climate is
foggy and moist and the mountains lofty and rugged; while in the
neighbouring parish of Lochalsh the soil is rich, and produces good
pasturage. At Balrnacara, in Lochalsh, there is a wide stretch of wood,
probably 1500 acres or more, in which, though some of the trees are
older, the most are about fifty years of age. They comprise the usual
Scots fir, larch, and mixed hardwoods. Near Duncraig, the west coast
seat of Sir Alexander Matheson, beautifully situated amid a perfect
labyrinth of evergreens backed by a range of stupendous cliffs, there is
a considerable extent of larch and fir plantation about twenty years
old, and a lot of natural wood, chiefly birch, as also similar
plantations of considerable extent near Strome and at Nonach. The
former, 2 miles east of Strome, is about thirty years old ; while the
latter, situated at the head of Loch Ling, was planted about sixteen
years ago.
The parish of Lochcarron belongs to Sir A. Matheson,
M.P.; Lord Wimbourne, Achnashellach; and Mr Murray of Lochcarron, and is
much less wooded than the adjoining parishes. On Sir Alexander
Matheson's estate the only wood is at Attadale, where, though the
plantations have been mostly cut, there is still a considerable extent
of natural wood, and again at New Kelso. On Achnashellach there are
young plantations of Scots fir and larch, interspersed with mountain
ash, and some spruce and ornamental trees about the house. On the
opposite side of the valley there is a strip of natural birch, and some
old Scots firs in Glencairn, and in the forest of Coulan. It may here be
mentioned that all the old Scots fir wood in the parishes of Lochcarron
and Applecross is of native growth. With the exception of a small
plantation at Tullich, there is little or no planted wood on Mr Murray's
estate, but long stretches of natural wood, chiefly birch, run along the
north side of Lochcarron. At Shieldaig, however, in the parish of
Applecross, a good many Scots fir and a lot of birch grow along the
south side of Loch Torridon. The chief wood in this parish is on Lord
Middleton's estate, where there are trees of large size, There is also a
small plantation at Ardglass, on the Torridon estate, belonging to Mr
Duncan Darroch.
The principal proprietors in the parish of Gairloch
are Sir Kenneth S. Mackenzie, Bart. of Gairloch, Mrs Banks of Gruinard,
and Mr Asgood H. Mackenzie of Inverewe.
The surface of this parish abounds in lofty
mountains, affording a meagre pasture for sheep, with here and there
glens and straths tolerably fertile in propitious seasons. Quartzites
are to be found here, notably at Kinlochewe, where the sharp-ridged
summit of Ben Eay consists of quartzite almost as white as snow. The
situations of the woods in the Gairloch property are principally about
Flowerdale House, along the south of Gairloch Bay, at the foot of Loch
Maree, and along a great part of its shores and on its islands.
Between Loch Rosque (noticed in Mid Ross), and Loch
Maree, the only woods are patches of natural birch, oak, and alder.
Along this road detached boulders of all sizes and more or less finely
polished, are to be seen on the moors and gravel banks in all
directions.
At Kinlochewe Hotel there is a young plantation of
Scots fir, larch, and spruce, and some old hardwoods. Two miles beyond
this the road skirts the shore of Loch Maree, through a natural wood of
birch and Scots fir. These Scots fir have a peculiar bluish tint, and
seem to thrive best in the neighbourhood of Kinlochewe.
Around Talladale there are some oaks and birch, and
just beyond it a beautiful plantation of Scots fir, larch, and birch.
The larch here are very good, and are about forty years old.
The islands on Loch Maree are more extensive than
those on any other loch in Great Britain, except Loch Lomond, and are
covered with wood of native growth throughout. The abundance and rich
tint of the heather is a striking characteristic. Isle Maree, one of the
smallest, but the most interesting, both historically and
arboriculturally, of the whole group, is covered with larch, holly, and
other trees beset with undergrowth. Foolish tourists have killed a holly
tree on this island by sticking coppers in its bark. Wise ones, in the
interest of themselves and trees generally, take them out. The scenery
of Loch Maree, though very fine, illustrates the characteristic fault of
Scotch mountain views—the want of real green fertile valleys and waving
woodlands, to break the monotony of the bare hills and moorland lochs
which crowd upon every hand.
Between Talladale and Flowerdale the wood consists of
birch coppice here and there along the loch and burn sides.
At Flowerdale there are very old sycamore trees, also
elm, ash, lime, beech, horse chestnut, and silver fir of no mean
dimensions, as may be seen from the list at the end, their size
comparing favourably with those grown in more favoured situations. From
Flowerdale to the Gairloch Hotel the road is on part of the way flanked
on both sides by fine timber, of which the larch, ash, and beech are
specially prominent.
The pass of Kerrysdale, a narrow little ravine, is
fringed with birch and fine larch, which both here and at Flowerdale are
about seventy years of age. Altogether there are over 1000 acres of wood
on the Gairloch estate, a good deal of which is of natural growth,
especially birch and Scots fir. Larch is the principal tree grown and
planted here, and it does remarkably well, reaching a great height, and
producing fine timber. The soil is chiefly gravel, though in some places
a yellow loam above rock. The larches and firs planted fifteen years ago
are doing well, and some extent is planted nearly every year. The seed
of native fir in Kinlochewe forest is wisely gathered, and seedlings
raised and planted from it in a nice little home nursery. Thick
planting, that is 3 feet apart, is the custon here, all plants being put
in during March; and we are told the entire cost, including plants,
preparation of the ground and planting, is about £8 per acre. Thinnings
are given away free to crofters for roofs of buildings.
The sea-coast rises steeply in cliffs, and the woods
do not suffer much from the salt sea breeze. They, however, suffer a
little from the Adelgis laricis, and somewhat from caterpillar;
but blackcock, hares, and rabbits do the most damage.
There is little or no extent of young plantations on
the Gruinard and Letterewe properties, and the most of the wood lies on
the northern shore of Loch Maree, and along the banks of the Gruinard.
It consists chiefly of natural grown birch and oak, and some, but very
few, larch, which are about forty years old.
Entering next the parish of Lochbroom, we come to
some Scots fir and birch in the valley of Dundonell, which is grassy and
pleasantly wooded. There is also a nice plantation opposite Dundonell
House. The principal woods in this parish, however, are on Braemore, the
property of Mr John Fowler, by whom they were planted mostly within the
last eighteen years. Exclusive of a number of clumps and belts
interspersed at suitable points throughout the valley, there is one
large plantation, enclosing, we should think, 1000 acres. It begins near
the march of the property opposite Inverbroom House, and extends up the
slopes of the valley continuously for some miles, to its termination at
the summit of Corriehalloch, near the entrance lodge. The soil and
climate are evidently most favourable, as seldom has the writer seen
trees growing in such variety, and showing such perfect symmetry and
vigorous, healthy growth. On the higher slopes fir and larch abound at
an altitude reaching to 700 feet. On the lower and more sheltered
situations almost every species of hardwood is to be seen, interspersed
with Wellingtonias and other choice pines, all of them thriving and
handsome specimens. Nowhere have we seen that beautiful tree, the
mountain ash, grow with such luxuriance as here at Braemore, along the
edge of the frightful Corriehalloch,
"Among the loose crags, whose threatening mass
Lay hovering o'er the hollow pass,
As if an infant's touch could urge
Their headlong passage down the verge."
These beautiful woods at every point give evidence of
judicious treatment; and we have pleasure in adding, that we believe
much of the success which has been attained is due to the fostering care
of Mrs Fowler, a lady who delights in devoting much of her leisure hours
to superintending in person the work of planting, pruning, and thinning.
There are also rows of Scots fir, larch, hardwood, and alder scattered
over the level ground between Inverbroom and Inverlael.
About halfway down the side of Lochbroom, on the road
to Ullapool, we come to the snug little property of Leckmelm, lately
purchased by Mr Pirie of Aberdeen, who has done much, by planting and
otherwise, to beautify the place. Here the trees are chiefly fir and
larch, with a few hardwoods, mountain ash, and some choice pines, where
the soil is or can be made suitable. Running almost parallel with
Lochbroom, is Rhidorroch glen, one of the prettiest in the district, as
seen when approached by the drive from Ullapool up the side of Loch
Achall, on the west shores of which there are beautiful clumps of
natural birch. Higher up the glen, above the lodge, some fine old
natural Scots fir are growing among a lot more birch. Other glens and
straths in this parish are similarly clothed with birch and alder, such
as at Langwell, Drumruinie, and around Lochs Shinas-kaig, Oiskaig,
Lurgain, &c. in the Coigach district of the parish.
5. Hehridean Lewis.
The extent of the Lewis Long Island is 561,200 acres,
or about 880 square miles; its greatest length being 40 miles and
breadth 24 miles.
The mean temperature of this island, for November and
the three winter months, is about 39°, and that of the other eight
months about 49°.
The woods on this island all belong to Lady Matheson
of the Lews, and are situated for the most part in the neighbourhood of
Stornoway Castle, overlooking the magnificent harbour of Stornoway. In
the vicinity of the castle large and well-grown specimens of the ash,
elm, plane, oak, beech, and larch are growing on a loamy soil above
gravel and rock. They were planted previous to the estate being
purchased by the late Sir James Matheson, and are probably sixty or
seventy years old.
In the "Willow Glen," close by, there are good
specimens of ash, elm, and alder trees, above which several nice silver
firs, spruces, and larches rear their heads. The subsoil here is clayey.
At Marybank, and in a glen to the south of Stornoway Castle, at an
altitude ranging from 20 to 30 feet, there are some fair larch, oak,
ash, and plane trees, with some nice silver firs and spruces on the
south side of the glen. Between this glen and the castle there are, in
addition to numerous larch, common spruce, and silver fir, several nice
ornamental trees, including Picea nobilis, Abies Menziesii, Abies
Douglasii, Abies canadensis, Pinus Strobus. Pinus Cembra, Cupressus
Lawsoniana, Biota orientalis, and Arau-earia imbricata. The
hardwoods, which are numerous and good here, include purple beech,
birch, ash, mountain ash, horse chestnut, Spanish chestnut, beech, and
gean.
At Cleascro, 8 miles from Stornoway in a westerly
direction, there are 50 acres of plantation, containing larch, spruce,
silver fir, beech, birch, and mountain ash. This is situated with a
south-westerly exposure, on the steep slope of a hill, 3 miles from the.
sea, and contains some well-grown specimens of each tree. The silver fir
is doing particularly well on this island, as it outfaces the strong
south-west wind, and bears the keen sea air, while the Scots fir does
not reach any great size, or appear to thrive well. The best trees on
the island are to be found within three hundred yards of the sea.
Further inland, especially where there is any depth of peat, they are
more stunted in their growth ; while they also appear to thrive best
away from the exposure of the prevailing winds, viz., west and
south-west, which blow with great violence during the winter months.
Timber Sales.
It is very difficult to obtain correct statistics
regarding the current prices and probable prospective value of
Ross-shire timber, owing to the want on most of the estates of detailed
accounts in this department of estate management, so that we are able to
append only a few notes of information picked up throughout the county,
and willingly given by timber merchants dealing in Ross-shire wood.
The quality of the timber, in texture, clean growth,
and freedom from roy, is about equal to any in Scotland, except perhaps
some from the Athole Woods. The greater extent being comparatively
young, a good deal is used for fencing and other estate purposes and for
crofters' outhouses; nevertheless a considerable quantity goes to
Invergordon and Tain, and some is sent to Inverness and elsewhere.
High railway rates not only keep down the prices of
larch and fir in Ross-shire, but almost forbid the despatch of its
hardwood to Dundee and other manufacturing centres ; while, regarding
foreign timber, we understand that in many cases the rates of carriage
from a shipping port to an inland town are only one-half what they are
vice versa. Is this fair?
The Highland railway runs near the best Ross-shire
woods, to the timber from which the few prices quoted below refer, so
that the latter must not be taken as representing averages over the
county, because in many districts cartage alone would nearly absorb the
whole price obtained.
Larger sizes of larch have decreased in value from
2s. to 1s. 6d. in the last seven years, and find sale for various
structures specially requiring durability, including waggon framing,
boat building, railway sleepers and telegraph poles, and barrel heading
and staves.
The fall in price is due very much to the fact that
the Government Board of Trade will now brand fish barrels made of spruce
and Scots fir, though they also allow larch barrels to be rebranded
once, thus saving the cost to the curer of fresh ones, for one year.
Besides this, spruce is now being used in the south for sleepers. We
have heard the belief expressed that larch is likely to be largely used
as street paving.
Besides barrel staves, large fir, fetching from 8d.
to 10d. per foot, is sold here chiefly for manufacture into railway
sleepers (creosoted at Forres), and into deals of various sizes for
external uses. Some small fir and larch thinnings are of course sold for
prop wood, but the price obtained over the Highlands is very low, caused
by the receipt at the mines of quantities of very worthless, unsafe
stuff, and the choice they there have of clean wood from Norway.
Prices of Ross-shire hardwood are, as aforesaid, much
handicapped by carriage rates, but good ash and plane offer the best
prospect of continuous demand, the former fetching 1s. 6d. per cubic
foot, being useful for tool handles and cartwright work (there being
very little good elm in the county); while plane fetches about 1s. per
cubic foot, for pattern and instrument making. Beech is very low in
price at present, but sells for machinery work, rough pieces also, being
used for buffer heads, and clean straight wood for boat keels. Not much
oak is sold.
Though foresters can rarely compete successfully with
wood merchants in the manufacture of timber, still there are several
estate saw mills throughout the county which are found very useful, and
the mountain streams which everywhere abound afford convenient power.
Most of the large lots are sold standing, and if not an entire
clearance, the forester, to prevent misunderstanding, and damage to
adjoining trees, does the felling, the purchaser getting the brushwood,
and generally giving it to the farmers who cart the timber for him.
Forestry.
In his excellent paper on "The Comparative Return
from Capital invested in Cropping, Grazing, or Planting Land upon Hill
and Moorland," published in the Transactions of the Highland and
Agricultural Society for 1878, Mr J. B. Smith says— "Again and again
the cry comes to us across the Atlantic that the forest primeval is
being recklessly demolished, and that in a few short years its timber
producing wealth will be exhausted. At home, in these days of high wages
(as compared with the social and political condition of the working
classes even fifty years ago), when the ruling axioms should be, ' quick
productions and quick returns,' these doubtless ought to form the basis
of all profitable enterprises. Though many of our noblemen and gentry
derive a good income from their plantations alone, for which they have
their ancestors to thank, and though the home demand for timber, and
foreign imports, are both still on the increase, we yet find them doing
little or nothing for posterity in the way of planting." This,
unfortunately, may be only too true, speaking generally, but it can
hardly be applied to the landlords of Ross-shire, who are an
intelligent, enterprising, and liberal class, and the extent and number
of plantations laid out throughout the county within the past fifty
years, much of it within the last thirty years, as can be gathered from
the foregoing Report, shows that they are now, at any rate, fully alive
to the advantages, direct and indirect, to be derived from planting both
to themselves and to posterity. Some sixty years ago Ross-shire was
probably as far behind in this respect as most counties in Scotland, but
many thousands of acres have been planted since then, and the landed
proprietors in some of the other counties in the north would do well,
both to themselves and to the community generally, were they to follow
the good example shown them in the way of extensive planting by the
proprietors of Ross-shire.
It must, however, be admitted that the woods and
plantations of Ross-shire, like those of several other counties, are, as
a rule, more neglected than any other department in the general
management of its landed property, whether this arises from the lack or
misapplication of knowledge, it is not intended here to discuss. That
such is the case, however, no one will deny, the fact being too apparent
to all who take the trouble to look into it. It is much to be regretted
that neither the practice, science,. nor literature of arboriculture has
kept pace with its sister sciences of agriculture and horticulture,
although Ross-shire is quite as advanced in this respect as some other
counties more favourably situated, and the management of its woods very
much better than in the past. The long period that trees require to
arrive at maturity and become a source of profit (most of our timber
trees taking more than a man's lifetime), may in great measure
contribute to their neglect, and curtail planting operations, seeing how
seldom one man reaps the full benefit of what he plants, while returns
can be had much sooner from other investments. This in reality, however,
ought to be one of the best reasons why their management should be both
well understood and receive regular and systematic attention. The
forester, unlike the farmer or gardener, making a mistake one year,
cannot rectify it the next, as it would generally be too late. Those
experienced in the culture of woods declare that land worth only 10s.
per. acre per annum, should be planted, as the best investment of money;
and further that land planted, yields not less than £1 per acre of rent
from the date of planting onwards for sixty years. Allowing this to be
so, how much more profitable must it be to plant land not worth more
than 2s. sometimes less than 1s. per acre for grazing purposes. Of such
land there is a large extent in this county still available, and well
adapted for the growth of timber, if systematically surface drained a
year or two previous to planting. While this is the case, no one
travelling through Ross-shire but must have observed many tracts of land
at present under cultivation, which should never have been reclaimed. In
the distribution of plantations a common mistake is, that the belts are
frequently too narrow, in consequence of which the shelter they were
meant to afford is insufficient, while the trees themselves are stunted
and comparatively valueless. Again, some of the larger estates go to the
other extreme by planting immense tracts in one situation, which are apt
to be unwieldy and hence often neglected, while other portions of the
same property are suffering from want of judiciously placed plantations
for shelter and amenity. Estates with a proper outline of plantations
have a rich, warm look about them, and this has a tendency to influence
both purchasers of landed property and tenants more than may at first be
supposed.
Owing to the strength of the prevailing winds,
burning the surface before planting is not practised in Ross-shire,
except for increasing capillary attraction on spots with a wet subsoil.
In such places (though drainage as a rule is well attended to), plants
much too young may be observed struggling for existence, and not planted
nearly thick enough to dry the soil much. Wire fences are the general
enclosures, as they are least likely to afford entrance to deer and
sheep, by forming drifts in a snowstorm. Thinning is sometimes
indiscriminately done, and is often too long delayed. On the light soils
of this county very little conifer pruning is done, and is not to be
recommended, except in selecting a fresh leader for plants which have
been topped by game, especially roe-deer, mountain hares, and the
blackcock (Tetrao tetrix), from which hill plantations in
Ross-shire have suffered considerably. Few improvements enrich the
general appearance of a country, or increase the value of a property
more, than hedges, and in Ross-shire, though scarce, they are fairly
well managed. The time best adapted for tree planting in this, as in
other counties, of course, varies according to the situation and
condition of the soil; the rule which is most in favour being to plant
in dry soils and favourable exposures in open weather, during early
winter, and in the higher and colder exposures in spring. The greater
extent of the plantations in Ross-shire being on open heathy ground,
slit or cross-cut planting with the common spade, sometimes not very
carefully done, is generally the mode pursued for the younger ages of
fir and larch; the hardwoods being pitted into the deeper and more
sheltered soils. The cost of slit planting, varying with the convenience
of the situation, may be said to average about 8s. per acre for labour
alone. Not for some years back could forest trees be purchased so
cheaply as at present.
other kinds being in proportion.
The rearing of Scots fir seedlings from their own
woods is successfully practised on one or two estates, but this seed is
collected from planted trees, not from native pine. Nevertheless,
careful superintendence in collecting the seed only from the best and
soundest specimens, is necessary to ensure success. Home nurseries as an
auxiliary, not as an entire substitute for public ones, are much more
rare than they should be in this county. Their advantages are too well
known to need comment here. Prominence has of late years been given to
the system of growing timber from self-sown seed. Where circumstances
are favourable, this plan well deserves attention; and there is a
considerable extent of this kind of wood throughout Ross-shire,
especially on the Redcastle property, where, however, it has not had a
fair trial
the woods being much damaged by squirrels. An
important, if not the main advantage of this system is, that the trees
grow up varying considerably in height and strength, thereby admitting
more air, while the stronger and best trees not only prevail, but
benefit. This system appears to be the one mainly practised in the State
Forests of Germany, regarding which Captain Campbell Walker, Deputy
Conservator of Forests, Madras, in his very interesting Report, gives it
as his opinion that we are as far behind Germany in the knowledge and
application of scientific forestry as we are in advance of her with
regard to agricultural pursuits. If this be so, it is to be hoped the
"International Forestry Exhibition," held in Edinburgh in 1884, will be
the means of awakening a more genuine and lively interest in this very
important branch of our national resources.
General Remarks.
The pests of our pine forests exist, but have not
done very extensive damage, in the woods of Ross-shire. Scots fir
suffers in different localities from the caterpillar, beetle, and
weevil, but only to a comparatively slight extent. The larch, more
especially in the richer soils, has the sooty appearance, due to the
larch bug Coccus laricis, besides suffering from the rot, blister
and other constitutional diseases. Trees in exposed situations are
frequently found decayed through the overstraining of the tap root,
which is sometimes mistaken for one or other of the prevalent diseases
affecting the larch.
There are some districts in Scotland in which,
without an intimate knowledge of the salubrity of the local climate, one
would not expect to find trees of great magnitude. Ross-shire, for
example, we do not generally associate with a capability for raising
heavy timber, but the accompanying returns should change the views on
this subject, which may have been entertained by many people. Splendid
specimens of hardwood trees are therein recorded, while the introduction
of ornamental varieties throughout the county is every year becoming
more general and is very successful. Growth from cuttings and seed of
the latter should certainly be more practised. |
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