‘When we look
back into other years, unto the Appin of our early recollection, our minds
are in an old order, very little of which remains. It is not merely that
things are greatly changed; we are surveying what might be called “the world
before the Flood”. Besides the benefits of social legislation and medical
progress, our time has witnessed so many inventions and new departures that
it is impossible to say which has been the greatest or with the most far
reaching consequences. It is difficult to imagine human life without motors,
yet it is only forty years since their legalised arrival, and the modern era
may be said fairly to have begun. Prior to that, machinery had hardly come
into its own, and now we have conveniences and mechanical contrivances of
all sorts, un-dreamt of in olden times. Today what would be then deemed
incredible, neither carriage nor cart is seen on the road. Before the voice
of the mower or the binder was heard in the land, hay and grain alike went
down before the scythe, and every field was alive with harvesters. The
thatched houses always required attention, as the wind in a frolic might
come anytime. Another circumstance was the amount of work people had
to do on the hill. Peats – what with casting, spreading on the greenan. And
afterwards lifting and shifting and carting, involved a great deal of work.
Casting was generally considered as trying as the scythe. When carting, we
started at four o’clock in the morning, and like Duncan Ban and Lloyd
George, saw the sun rise on the hilltops. Peats must have formed the main
item of fuel for a protracted period, of which indelible evidence is
afforded us by the tracks of the “carns” on the braeface. Those “carns”
(sledges) gave place to wheeled carts in the last quarter of the eighteenth
century. Consequently the moor was almost as well known to the men of the
Strath as to the men of the Aird. Can and. corr and crag - seemingly all had
names. Some remain, but doubtless the great majority are irreparably lost.
The peat industry, after languishing a good while, completely disappeared
about forty years ago.
Of the many
old customs that are past along with the fairs, shows and gatherings,
perhaps the one most easily remembered is Halloween Night with its two lines
of bonfires, one on each side of the Tay Valley, in which we took such
delight when we were boys.
Most likely
when we think of that time and this, the other thing that strikes us is that
we were a much bigger company of folk then. When I first entered School
there were considerably over 100 in it. In fact, there was a fair attendance
both at Church and School till the opening of this century; more inhabitants
in the villages, and more working the land; but now the population is going,
because the three sources of supply have been interfered with. The Family of
Chiefs with their retainers and workers is ancient history. Mechanical
science enables agriculturists to carry on with fewer hands. Mass production
has done for the workmen of the olden villages and their workshops. The
wheels of the old mills are not going round, and it’s an empty School and an
empty Kirk. However far back we go, it was pretty much the same tale. As far
as we recollect, we were hearing from our seniors of the great Dull of yore,
and had various particulars of the former state of our surroundings. There
had been 23 houses in Camserney west of the Burn. Of the 15 standing within
my memory, 13 have gone down, and 6 including Tighnabruaich, in Milton. In
the Village of Dull in the same time, another 19; 38 hearth-stones cold.
There were ever so many more tenants, and at one time 20 cottars’ cows
summered in Easter Moan; 19 from Dull and 1 from Tullicro. The Crofters’
Brae, east of the Burn, had likewise its compliment. Everything was then so
different. High rents and cheap labour instead of low rents and dear labour.
Land in keen demand, so that every “to let” attracted its offerers. It was
the same everywhere. At the Genera1 Election of 1885, the slogan throughout
the country was “three acres and a cow” Compared with that, we read now in
the Gaelic Edition of Life and York, “No man in Atholl to-day will thank you
‘for offering him a croft” and Appin is in Atholl. It may also be remarked
that the community was one and indivisible, under one man who held the reins
with a steady hand, and socially and recreationally there was neither East
nor West, neither Weem nor Dull, but Menzies Appin. Cordial relations
existed, neighbour helping neighbour, and the community of which we were
citizens might have taken for its motto “Bon-Accord’.
Again, as
regards the language, it was Gaelic almost universally with young and old
alike, though evidently falling into disfavour with the authorities. In
Church, the unvarying English morning service, in course of time, displaced
the Gaelic service, which used to follow. In School, thanks to the Reformers
of 1872, the vernacular got its parting kick with dramatic suddenness. It is
indeed curious in the light of recent and present day Celtic activities,
that we should have had the wonderful arrangement of not a word of Gaelic
being allowed in School at a time when it was the only language heard in the
play-ground. This is no criticism; it is merely a statement of facts.
Again while
musing o’er those olden days and thinking of the people of that time, it
comes to mind how their circumstances and ways of working differed from ours
of today. It brings to our recollection how they had - some aged folk at any
rate - their own peculiar talk, their own topics of conversation. From them,
had we been a little more attentive, we might easily have stored old local
traditions, which we hear from none today. Reviewing that talk of half a
century ago, we may, among other things, detect two notes in it; local
pride, in the good sense, and local lore. In a countryside with its ancient
Church and historic landmarks, they had always something to look up to. A
long line of Chiefs sat in the Castle visited by one of the most famous
queens of all time. It was deemed not unworthy of the notice of Montrose and
Cromwell and Cumberland. In old Farleyer, for long resided a notable, Robert
Menzies, the “Chamberlain More”, when tenants paid the rent in Scots money
and in meal. One of his sons, Archibald Menzies, was the famous “Major More”
of the 42nd at Waterloo; mentioned in Kelties History as a man of prodigious
strength, and “in a hand to hand conflict more than a match for six ordinary
men”. After the war he stayed a while at Farleyer, and many stories have
come down regarding him.
And there were
various old educational particulars of interest. McGregor of Dull,
Schoolmaster and Bard, was a teacher of repute. He had a long tenure of
office and was the only Dull Schoolmaster who died in the 19th century.
Every Scholar had to take a good peat daily, and as showing the close
connection with the land as well as with the hill, it may he pointed out
that about a hundred years since, the first stook seen in a harvest field
closed the School. The Founder of the Menzies Bursary was a Camserney man.
His original intention was to erect a Free School for poorer children on the
narrow strip of land between Drumdewan Plantation and the main road. Old Sir
Neil would not give the site, and to relieve the pressure on Dull, a side
school and Library at Aird Cottage was conducted by a succession of young
teachers. One, Robert Cameron from Lawers, became a Schoolmaster in Durham.
Elected M.P. for Houghton—le-Spring, he was the only Gaelic speaking man in
the House of Commons. He published a Book on the Gaelic names of plants. In
that century beginning with Thomas Menzies (Farleyer), nine ministers hailed
from the Appin of Dull, and besides, it is noteworthy that Dr. Boyd, the
Moderator of 1890 was in the following year succeeded by Dr. James McGregor
“not excelled” said his predecessor “in popular gifts by any Minister in
Scotland”. The one was the son of a Camserney man, the other the son of a
Tullicro man.
And besides,
from the talk of that time might be culled older stories, leading us back,
certainly not to a golden age, but to dearth and destitution, not
over-production. Those were times of scarcity, and in church, the collection
would amount to merely a handful of half-pennies. Generally, only the head
of the household, at the end of the seat, contributed, the wife and family
taking shelter on the other side of him. Even he often hesitated and then an
elder, Seumas Ban, E. Tegarmuchd, would halt and say “Hoot man, put a
ha’penny in it an’ I will give you a bottle o’ straw”. And then the
man, doubtless a poor cottar, thinking of his cow in the byre, would give.
That was happening in the Church of Dull 200 years ago when McLean was at
the helm.
Again, on the
farms, it wasn’t “Purple and fine Linen” by any means. We read that
when Dundee gave the word at Killiecrankie, Lochiel threw aside the only
pair of boots in the Cameron clan. It was related of a family in Rawer -
Clan Robbie - that they had but one pair of boots; however, in that house a
juster law prevailed then that in the Clan Macaulay. The first person who
got up in the morning puts on the boots.
Occasionally
the talk turned on the ancient “Ceilidhs” when folk went in bands from house
to house, the women carrying their spinning wheels with them, and tales as
old as Troy went round. It is evident that the passing of the Ceilidh was
the greatest social change ever seen in the Scottish Highlands.
We might
easily infer that these Old Holidays were heartily enjoyed with merry-making
in the homes and sports on Camserney Green, anciently the playground of
Appin. In the ‘Queen’s Year’ 1842, a native of Milton, Thomas Menzies, was
the Scottish Champion Athlete. The Fast day they dignified with the name of
Little Sunday, and kept as well as we keep Big Sunday. Touching it there is
a very old story, and it is very short. In an abnormally wet season, when
people got into difficulties with their fodder and their fuel, two men in
Dull one fair summer morning on a Fast Day, sent out for the hill to lift
culag - turf for placing around the peat fires. On reaching the top of Moan,
in sight of their objective, they repented and turned back.
Two local
happenings caused some commotion, the Militia riots at Weem, and thereupon
the Sutherland Fencibles in Appin. While during the French War there was no
conscription for the Regular Army, they had a compulsory Enactment for the
Militia. Each Parish had to keep so many men in the Perth Militia; the quota
of the Parish of Dull was 18 men. The Laird of Weem, as District
Commissioner under the Act, incurred the ire of the anti-conscriptionists,
and the unpopularity of the measure resulted in a demonstration. One band of
men came from the west, including the contingent from Rannoch and Foss - the
wildest men of the lot - gaining in numbers by intimidation as they went
along. Whenever on their route any man seemed unwilling to follow, their’
cry was “A wisp of straw, a live peat and fire to your house”. At Weem they
were met by another crowd from the eastern parts, and the united stream
broke the East Gate and made for the Castle. On the Green, Sir John’s
“Chamberlain More” while addressing them, was interrupted by a voice crying
“We’ll make you take brose yet”, and when the Big man contented himself with
saying “If I mistake not, brose is good food” the voice replied “Ill would
it agree with your guts”. It was feared they might set the Castle on fire -
it was a mob consisting of 1,000 men - but seemingly they dispersed without
doing damage. The originator of the Riot was said to have been a prominent
Rannoch Radical who delighted in coming down to the Elections, then held at
Weem, brandishing a big flag, jeeringly called Bratach-na-Mokan (the Hogger
Flag) hence his nickname. Certainly a Weem man was one of the ringleaders.
His name has not come down, but he dwelt in the westmost of the two houses
in front of the Churchyard, and was arrested by a party of Dragoons. A horse
directed by its rider, turned round and broke down the door with its heels.
All that tomfoolery vanished in a jiffy when the Sutherland Highlanders
appeared on the scene - a regiment of Fencibles or Volunteers, not long
after embodied as the 93rd. According to General Stewart of Garth, a finer
body of men was never raised in the Highlands. Their billeting in Appin and
protection of the Castle, forming as it did one of the most interesting
episodes in its history, made a lasting impression. They fraternised with
the people, taking part in the Ceilidhs, and. at a Wedding in the village of
Dull, they were there with their pipers. They were ordered to Ireland in
1798. Two men - a Campbell and a MacKay, who married Appin women, returned,
and descendants of both are yet in the Parish of Dull, after the lapse of
138 years.
In 1794, for
various reasons, another incident attracted a good deal of attention; the
plea between Sir John Menzies and the Menzies Baron of Bo1fracks respecting
the road on the West side of Camserney Burn and the Ford. Bolfracks won and
succeeded in keeping the road open, and then a procession of Breadalbane men
marched up the Burn side headed by a Pipe Band playing “We’ll take the main
road”.
The Weem Court
of Inquiry held at the instance of the Court of Session, revealed many
particulars about the district. Alex. Menzies, a native of Camserney, was
Ground Officer for forty years and resided at the Broomha1l, which at that
time was a Public House, and afterwards the Home Farm House. It was then
they started sowing seeds, turnips and clover, the real commencement of
rotation of crop, which soon brought on a revolution in arable farming.
In its lower
course Camserney Burn meandered south easterly and fell into the Tay below
Croftnamuick at a place called Inver, near the Ford of Inver. It was
straightened and banked in 1773. The dale was all un-enclosed and not all
cultivated, there being wide stretches of whin and broom of rank growth. A
right of way extended alongside the river to the Port of Lyon, and between
there and Aberfeldy there had been four pubic ferries, and no fewer than
fourteen fords, and the name of only one of them is unknown to us. Like the
knowes, every pool had its name; one up in the Den was called the Linn of
the Water Serpent.
Camserney was
a busy centre. A doctor resided in the place about 1760, and it contained a
Meal Mill, a Lint Mi11, and a Wauk Mill. To these, in course of time, were
added a Distillery and a Saw Mill. Long ere a channel was cut in the rock,
and a real Mill-town then arose. They had a Mill in Dull and another in
Croft-Voulin (Upper Camserney on Alt-Rudhag. Moan, when inhabited, had a
Public House “Tighmore” and there lingered vague tradition of “The Wedding
of the Duan in the big house of Moan” but no tradition, however dim,
remained of anything in connection with the Old Castle, of the “larachs” on
the Braes, and the shielings on the moorland.
JOHN STEWART.of
Camserney. “The Disciple” John Stewart was known as The Disciple owing
to his distinguished bearded appearance. |