BADGE: Fraoch gorm (erica
vulgaris) common heath.
PIBROCH: Mort Ghlinne Comhann.
ONE
of the wildest and grandest of the glens of Scotland, and at the same
time, by reason of its tragic memories, one of the best known, is that
which runs westward from the south shore of Loch Leven into the heart of
the highest mountains of Argyll. The stream which brawls through its
lonely recesses remains famous in Ossianic poetry under the name of Cona,
and high in the face of one of its mountain precipices is to be seen the
opening of a cavern said by tradition to have been a retreat of the poet
Ossian himself. In the twelfth century, along with the Isles and a vast
extent of the western mainland of Scotland, Glencoe appears to have been a
possession of the great Somerled, Lord of the Isles, from whom it seems to
have passed, along with the northern mainland possessions of the great
lordship, to his eldest son, Dugal, ancestor of the MacDougals of Lorne
and Argyll. In the Wars of Succession at the beginning of the fourteenth
century the two great houses descended from Somerled’s sons took
opposite sides. While the MacDougals took the side of Baliol and Comyn,
the MacDonalds, descended from Somerled’s second son, Reginald, took the
side of Bruce, and Angus Og. Reginald’s great-grandson, having
distinguished himself with his clan at Bannockburn, paved the way for his
family’s rise again to the position of chief consequence in the West of
Scotland. As an immediate reward, Angus Og is said to have obtained from
Bruce’s grandson, King Robert II., the lands of Morvern, Ardnamurchan,
and Lochaber, forfeited by the MacDougals for the part they had taken
against Bruce. While Angus Og’s eldest son, John, succeeded as Lord of
the Isles, a younger son, lain Fraoch, appears to have settled in Glencoe,
to which he further secured the right by marrying a daughter of a certain
Dugal MacEanreug. From lain Fraoch this sept of the MacDonalds took its
common name of the Maclans of Glencoe, and from the fact that one of its
chiefs after the fashion of those early times, was fostered by a family in
Lochaber, it frequently received the appellation of Abarach. The race is
not to be confused with that of Maclain of Ardnamurchan, which claimed
descent from lain Sprangaech, a son, not of Angus Og, but of his father,
Angus Mor.
While the heads of the
great house of MacDonald, the four successive Lords of the Isles,
themselves, by their successive marriages and revolts engaged in
undertakings which again and again threatened the stability of the
Scottish throne itself, the chieftains of the lesser tribes of the name,
like Maclain of Glencoe and Maclain of Ardnamurchan, showed a disposition
to engage in lawless warlike undertakings which were only less dangerous
because indulged in on a smaller scale. In the days of James VI. Maclain
of Ardnamurchan bade open defiance to the powers of law and order, and,
breaking out into actual piracy, became a terror to much of the west coast
of Scotland. The story is told of him that on his plundering excursions,
which took him up the narrow waters of Loch Linnhe, he followed the device
of painting one side of his galley white and the other black, so that
those who noticed him sailing up the loch to plunder and burn should not
recognise him and waylay him as he sailed down the loch again with his
spoils on board.
Though the Maclans of
Glencoe disavowed any connexion with these piratical expeditions of their
kinsmen, it is to be feared their own record was not less open to
question. As time went on, and the virile house of Campbell rose more and
more into power at the expense of their older rivals the MacDonalds, these
Maclans of Glencoe played their own part in that struggle of Montagues and
Capulets. The struggle came to a height in the seventeenth century, when
the Campbells at last felt themselves strong enough to deal their
MacDonald rivals a knockout blow. In the time of the civil wars of Charles
I., when that King’s general, the Marquess of Montrose, had been
defeated at Philiphaugh, and the Marquess of Argyll, Chief of the
Campbells, found himself at the head of the government of Scotland and in
possession of despotic power, the latter seized the opportunity to send
the armies of the Covenant to demolish the last strongholds of the
MacDonalds and MacDougals, burning the forts of the latter at Gylen and
Dunnollie near Oban, and massacring the garrison of three hundred
MacDonalds in their Castle of Dunavertie at the south end of Kintyre.
In these events may be
found the reason for the raids made by the MacDonalds of Glencoe during
the half century which followed into the lands of their Campbell enemies
which lay to the westward. For geographical reasons the lands which
suffered most from these incursions were those of the younger branch of
the Argyll family, the Campbells of Glenurchy, whose head in the days of
Charles II. became Earl of Breadalbane and Holland. On one occasion, while
a marriage feast was going on at Glenurchy’s stronghold of Finlarig on
Loch Tay, word was suddenly brought that the MacDonalds were driving the
cattle of the Campbells out of the glen, and the wedding guests almost
instantly found themselves engaged in a bloody affray with the invaders.
Again, on their way home from playing a victorious part under King James’s
general, Viscount Dundee, at the battle of Killiecrankie, the MacDonalds
of Glencoe seized the opportunity to sweep Glenlyon of its whole cattle
and valuables, and left Robert Campbell of Glenlyon, Breadalbane’s
henchman, absolutely a ruined man.
This feud and these events
were the immediate reason for the occurrence which remains the most
outstanding event in the history of the M’Ian MacDonalds, and is
remembered in history as the Massacre of Glencoe. The importance which
that massacre has assumed on the historic page is altogether out of
proportion to the actual size of the occurrence and to the number of those
who lost their lives on the occasion. As a matter of fact, only
thirty-eight of the MacDonalds were actually slain, and, though others may
have perished among the snowdrifts in the high glens through which they
tried to escape, the total is far less than that of those who fell in
scores of old clan onsets and surprises, and cannot of course be compared
with other massacres of clans obnoxious to the Campbells, like those of
the 300 MacDonalds at Dunaverty and the 200 Lamonts at Dunoon. The
circumstances of the case have given an outstanding interest and notoriety
to the Massacre of Glencoe—the treachery which was used, the individuals
who were concerned, and the matchless mountain theatre in which the tragic
drama was set. Not a little of the notoriety of the event is also owed to
the fact that it has been singled out for special description by such
masters of the literary art as Sir Walter Scott and Lord Macaulay.
The event is too well known
to call for minute description here. The prime mover in the undertaking,
as has already been suggested, was obviously Campbell of Glenurchy, Earl
of Breadalbane, and he had a ready tool to his hand in the person of
Robert Campbell of Glenlyon, who, as we have seen, had motives of his own
for seeking reprisals on the MacDonalds. The days were over when it was
safe for a Highland chief like Breadalbane to muster his clan openly and
fall upon and destroy an obnoxious neighbour by force of arms on his own
authority. Breadalbane was astute enough so to manage affairs that in the
attack upon the MacDonalds of Glencoe he should be acting with Government
authority and ostensibly in the interest of law and order. In the hands of
the cunning old fox of Loch Tayside the other and higher individuals to
whom a stigma is attached for their part in directing and authorising the
massacre—King William II. and III. and Sir John Dalrymple first Earl of
Stair—were little more than pawns in the game.
After the dispersal of
Dundee’s forces following the fall of King James’s general at
Killiecrankie, it was represented to King William’s Government as
desirable that the chiefs of clans should be required to swear allegiance
to the new Government, and it was arranged that if they laid down their
arms and took the oath before 1st January, 1692, they should receive an
indemnity for all previous offences. Breadalbane was the intermediary, and
he took care to manage matters very astutely in his own interest. In the
previous July, this noble had been trusted with the task of arranging
matters with the Jacobite Highland Chiefs, and when they met him at his
castle of Achalader, Glencoe, who was of a stately and venerable presence,
and whose courage and sagacity gave him much influence with his
neighbouring chieftains, is said to have taxed Breadalbane with the design
of retaining for his own use part of the money which Government had placed
in his hands for securing the good will of the chiefs. The Earl had
retorted by charging Glencoe with the theft of cattle from his lands, and,
in the altercation, old feuds were recalled and an evil spirit was excited
which promised ill for the weaker party. Maclain was repeatedly heard to
say that he feared mischief from no man so much as from Breadalbane.
Breadalbane as a matter of fact seems to have taken pains to direct the
special attention of the Master of Stair, as Secretary of State, to the
MacDonalds of Glencoe as the most suitable clan of whom to make a
terrifying example to the Highlands. In a letter of 3rd December, the
Secretary intimated the intention of Government to destroy utterly some of
the clans in order to terrify the others, and expressed the hope that the
MacDonalds of Glencoe would afford the opportunity of action against them
by refusing to take the oath.
Unfortunately Maclain was
foolish enough to allow the days of grace almost to run out before taking
the oath. Then, when he went to do so at Fort William, he was startled to
find that Colonel Hill, the Governor there, not being a civil officer, had
no power to accept it. It was necessary to go to Inveraray and take the
oath there before the Sheriff of Argyll. The roads were almost impassable
with snowdrifts, and, though the unhappy chieftain put forth his best
efforts, the first of January was past before he reached Inveraray. The
Sheriff was Sir Colin Campbell of Ardkinglas. In the circumstances, seeing
that Glencoe had really tendered the oath in time, though to the wrong
officer, he administered the oath and informed the Privy Council of the
special circumstances. Maclain returned home believing that all was right,
but as a matter of fact his doom was sealed. Already in advance a warrant
had been procured from King William for military execution against him.
The Sheriff’s letter was never produced before the Privy Council, and
the certificate of Maclain’s having taken the oath was blotted out from
the record. It seems probable that the fact of the Chief’s submission
was never brought to the King’s knowledge.
Events then moved
relentlessly forward. Before the end of January a detachment of Argyll’s
regiment under Campbell of Glenlyon entered Glencoe. On Maclain’s sons
with a body of clansmen meeting them and demanding their errand, Glenlyon
replied that they came as friends to take quarters in the glen in order to
relieve the overcrowded garrison at Fort William. They were accordingly
hospitably received, and entertained for fifteen days by the unsuspecting
chief and his people. On 12th December the order came to put to the sword
every MacDonald in the glen under 70 years of age, to close all avenues of
escape, and to take a special care that "the old fox and his
cubs" should be put to death.
As if to fill the cup of
treachery Glenlyon continued to enjoy the hospitality of the unsuspecting
clansmen. He took his morning draught as usual that day at the house of
one of the sons of the chief, Alastair MacDonald, who was married to his
niece. He and two of his officers accepted an invitation to dine next day
with Maclain himself; and he sat late that night in his own quarters
playing cards with the chief’s sons. He even reassured these young men,
who had come to him alarmed at finding the sentries doubled and the
soldiers preparing their arms, by telling them he was about to set out
against some of Glengarry’s men, and he ended "If anything evil had
been intended would I not have told Alastair and my niece."
At four o’clock in the
morning a single shot rang out, and the bloody work began. Lindsay, one of
the officers who had promised to dine with the chief, came with a party to
Maclain’s door and knocked for admittance, and as Glencoe was getting
out of bed and giving orders for refreshments to be provided for his
visitors, they shot him dead. His aged wife was then stripped and
ill-treated, the savage soldiery even tearing the gold rings from her
fingers with their teeth, so that she died next day.
While this was being done
the chief’s two sons were roused from bed by an old domestic, who bade
then fly for their lives. "Is it a time to sleep," he said,
"when your father is murdered on his own hearth?" As they came
out the shrieks and musket shots on every hand confirmed the warning, and,
taking to flight, the young men, by their perfect knowledge of the spot,
managed to escape by the southern exit from the glen. Their example was
followed by most of the other inhabitants, and as Major Duncanson,
Glenlyon’s superior officer, had been hindered by the snows from closing
the outlets of Glencoe, most of them escaped. Many scenes of blood,
however, were brutally enacted. A certain Captain Drummond in particular
distinguished himself by his brutality, ordering a young lad of twenty who
had been spared by the soldiers to be instantly shot, and himself with his
dirk stabbing a boy of six as he clung to Glenlyon’s knees, begging for
mercy. At one house a party of soldiers fired on a group of nine
MacDonalds sitting round their morning fire and killed four of them. The
owner of the house, who was unhurt, asked to be allowed to die in the open
air. Barbe, the sergeant in command of the party, answered, "For your
bread which I have eaten I will grant the request," and MacDonald was
allowed to come out. He was, however, an active man, and as the soldiers
were taking aim he threw his plaid over their faces and vanished.
The clan then numbered
about two hundred fighting men. Of these more than 160 escaped, and, with
their wives and children, made their way through the deep snows for twelve
miles to a place of safety. But their homes were utterly burned, and their
means of subsistence, some twelve hundred head of cattle and horses, and a
large number of sheep and goats, were driven off to Fort William for the
use of the garrison.
It was three years before
enquiry was made by Government into the dastardly business. The report of
the Royal Commission then appointed fixed the whole blame upon the Master
of Stair. Though his sole punishment seemed to be that he was driven for a
time from public life, it was said when he died in 1707 that his end had
come by his own hand. In the tradition of the Highlands the massacre was
thought to have entailed a curse upon the house of Glenlyon. In a later
campaign the head of that house was in command of a firing party appointed
to carry out the execution of a soldier. It was arranged that the
proceedings should be carried up to the firing point, and that only then
the man should be reprieved. The signal for the soldiers to fire was to be
the waving of a white handkerchief by Glenlyon. When the moment arrived
the officer put his hand into his pocket to produce the reprieve, but
unluckily brought the handkerchief with it. This was taken for the
concerted signal, the soldiers fired and the man fell dead. At that
Glenlyon is said to have struck his brow with his hand, exclaiming,
"The curse of God and Glenlyon is here. I am an unfortunate ruined
man !" and he forthwith retired from the service.
Incidents of the massacre
are told even yet in the neighbourhood. Towards the middle of the
eighteenth century it is said an old soldier arrived at the inn at Port
Appin, and by the other guests was regarded with lowering looks. Something
he said excited their suspicion, and he was asked if he had ever been in
the neighbourhood before. He admitted that he had, and on being pressed
confessed he had been one of the soldiers who took part in the massacre of
Glencoe. Dirks were drawn and blood seemed likely to be shed, when he told
his tale. In the dark of the fateful morning, he said, he had been
following his officer along the hillside, when a woman was seen behind a
boulder a little way off, trying to hide a child. The officer bade him see
to it, and kill the child if it happened to be a boy. It was a boy, but
before the mother’s tears and prayers he had not the heart to obey his
order. At the same time he was bound to show blood on his sword, and as a
dog passed at the moment he plunged his weapon through it. A few minutes
later, on his officer asking him whether he had slain the child, he held
up his reddened blade and exclaimed, "Ask that!" As the soldier
told the story the innkeeper’s face had grown white. "If you were
that redcoat I was that boy," he cried, "and there will be a
place for you at the fireside of the Inn of Appin as long as you
live."
Another romantic sequel of
the Massacre is narrated by Sir Walter Scott. When, during the Rising of
1745 the Highland army was approaching Edinburgh it was feared that the
Glencoe men might seek to revenge themselves by, burning the house of
Newliston, seat of Lord Stair, whose ancestor had been the chief mover in
that crime, and it was arranged that a guard should be posted to protect
the place. MacDonald of Glencoe heard of the resolution, and, deeming his
honour involved, demanded that the guard should be supplied by the men of
his own clan. The Prince agreed, and so it came about that "the
MacDonalds guarded from the slightest injury the house of the cruel and
crafty statesman who had devised and directed the massacre of their
ancestors."
By reason of its memories
and its magnificence, Glencoe is visited by thousands of pilgrims every
year, and in many a spot above the sunny little clachan of Invercoe are
still to be seen the ruins of the houses associated with the tragedy of
that terrible February morning in 1692. In the early part of last century,
however, the lands were left by Ewan MacDonald, the chief of the time, to
his daughter, and towards the end of the century, Glencoe was acquired by
the great Canadian statesman who took from it part of his title as Lord
Strathcona and Mount Royal.
Septs of Clan MacDonald of
Glencoe: Henderson, Johnson, Kean, Keene, MacHenry, MacIan, MacKean. |