| |
History
of Ryegate, Vermont
Chapter VIII |
THE HOME TOWNS OF THE COLONISTS:
INCHINNAN, ERSKINE, KILPAPRICK, BALDERNOCK, KILMALCOLM, JOHNSTONE,
HOUSTON, RENFREW, KILBARCHAN, LOCHWINNOCK, PAISLEY, GLASGOW, BALFRON,
ROSENEATH.—THE SCOTCH IN
NEWBURY.—WAGES IN 1793.—THE OCEAN PASSAGE.—EMIGRANTS.—PIONEER
LIFE.—REFLECTIONS.
WE have mentioned that most
of the early settlers of Ryegate, and of Barnet as well, came from the
west of Scotland, and from portions of the shires of Renfrew, Stirling,
Dunbarton and Lanark, from parishes and hamlets of which Inchinnan is a
center. Two volumes published near the end of the 18th century give much
information concerning most of these localities, which, supplemented by
later authorities, and personal information from some persons who have
lately visited them, we gather a few particulars which will interest those
whose ancestors came from any of them.
In 1782, Mr. William Semple issued
at Paisley a new and enlarged edition of a descriptive and biographical
work upon these counties, which had been published many years before by
George Crawford. In 1792, a Mr. Heron, who seems to have been a very
observing man, with a wide experience which renders his observations not
only descriptive but comparative, published the narrative of his journey
through the west of Scotland and made some remarks upon many places and
institutions.
Of Inchinnan, whence came David
Allan, Alexander Miller, the White-hills and others, we have already
spoken at some length. Newmains, Gateside, Rashilie, Broomlands, Braehead,
and others are the names of farms in that parish which they have borne for
centuries. Rev. Archibald Davidson was minister of the parish from 1761,
till he demitted the charge in 1786, to become principal of the University
of Glasgow, where he died in 1803. Several of our early settlers were
married by him, and he baptized their children who were born in Scotland.
Dr. Davidson published a volume of sermons, copies of which are probably
preserved here. He was eminent in the Church of Scotland in his time.
Mr. McClelland gives the names of
the elders of the congregation of Inchinnan from 1722 to 1816,
among whom are some familiar names: Alexr. Stewart, Alexr. Park, David
Allan, Duncan McKeith, James and John Fulton, William and John Gibson,
John Duncan, and several named Smith. A tombstone in the churchyard
records that David Smith "performed the duties of an elder in the Parish
of Inchinnan for 70 years." "On the 3d of February, 1685, James Algie and
John Park were hanged at the Cross of Paisley for refusing to take the
Test and Oath of Abjuration." [Church and Parish of Inchinnan, p. 18.]
From Erskine, which adjoins
Inchinnan on the west, came Hugh Gardner, Edward Miller, John Ritchie,
William and James Neilson, and others. The lands of Erskine, says
Crawford, were the most ancient possessions of the family which assumed
that surname, and afterwards become Lords Erskine and Earls of Mar. In
1638, it was sold by the Earl of Mar to Sir John Hamilton, from whom it
was purchased in 1703, by the Blantyre family, which is now extinct. The
manor house of Erskine, anciently the seat of the Earls of Mar, and
called, in 1782, one of the finest mansions in Scotland, was replaced
about 1820, by a more modern structure, upon another site. Lord Blantyre,
whom we have mentioned before, was patron of the parish in 1773, and Rev.
Walter Young, who succeeded Rev. James Lundie in 1769, was minister for
many years. He corresponded during his life with his old parishoners who
had settled among the Vermont hills, and Mr. Mason records that a very
affectionate letter from him was read to the Ryegate congregation,
congratulating them upon the settlement of Rev. David Goodwillie.
Glenshinnock, Kitts, Langhaugh and others are hamlets and farm-steadings
in Erskine, whose principal village in 1782, contained but thirteen
houses.
On the other side of the Clyde from
Inchinnan lies Old Kilpatrick, now an important place. Part of it is hilly
and picturesque, but along the river the land is level. This parish is in
Dunbartonshire, and is said to have been the birthplace of Saint Patrick,
the tutelar saint of Ireland. Andrew and Robert Brock came from this
parish, their birthplace being a small hamlet called Barns of Clyde.
Kilpatrick contained several small hamlets in 1782. The old Roman wall of
Antonious passes through this parish, which is rich in beautiful scenery,
especially, along the Kelvin, famous in Scottish song. This place must not
be confounded with New Kilpatrick which is in Renfrewshire, whence came
the Robens and others.
From Baldernock, on the south border
of Stirlingshire, the Kelvin forming its southern boundary, came William,
Walter, and Andrew Buchanan, the Wylie family, and Walter Buchanan of
Newbury. The parish church of Baldernock, one of the oldest in Scotland,
has been replaced by a modern edifice. A curious feature of this old kirk
was a tower erected for the use of a watchman employed to guard the
church-yard from the robbers of graves. Rev. James Cowper was minister
there in 1801, and James Duncan its session clerk more than fifty years. A
small hamlet in this parish is called Barochan Mills. The remains of some
curious structures, which are older than history, and are believed to be
the work of the Druids, are in this parish.
From Kilmalcolm, in the lower ward
of Renfrew, which lay, a century ago, on the great road from Paisley to
Greenock, came John Holmes, James Caldwell, William Warden, and others.
Part of it is described by Crawford as bleak and barren land, and part as
excellent pasture. The patron of Renfrew, in 1782, was the Earl of
Glencairn. The village contained about fifty houses.
Several individuals came from
Leshmahago, a very large parish, containing six villages, in 1782. The
falls of the Clyde are along the borders of the town. The village of Abbey
Green is built around the site of an old monastery, which dates from the
6th century. The ruins of the castle in which Queen Mary slept the night
before the battle of Langside, are in this parish.
From Elderslie, celebrated in
Scottish history as the birthplace of Sir William Wallace, came John Gray
of Ryegate, and Robert Fulton of Newbury. A small hamlet, called Brigg
o’Johnstone, where a bridge spans the Black Cart, had but ten residents in
1781, but cotton manufacturing being established there, it had grown
rapidly in 1792. Johnstone adjoins Paisley on the west, and from here came
Alexander Cochran and the Gibsons.
Houston and Kilallan were separate
parishes till 1760, when they were united under the former name. Rev.
Robert Carrick was minister of Houston, and Rev. John Monteith of
Kilallan. The former died in 1771, and Mr. Monteith became minister of
both parishes. Church certificates, in both Ryegate and Barnet, are signed
by these ministers.
Several who settled in this county
came from Renfrew, which is two miles north of Paisley, and a royal burgh
of great antiquity. The barony of Renfrew was the first possession of the
Stewart family in Scotland, and gives the title of Baron Renfrew to the
Prince of Wales. In 1782, it contained about 200 houses, most of which lay
along a single street, with a few short lanes. Mr. Patrick Simpson was
minister of Renfrew at that time, and had been longer in office than any
other Presbyterian minister in Scotland. In Renfrew are Yocker, Scotstown
and Gordonhill, which had very fertile soil in 1782.
Several who settled in both Ryegate
and Barnet came from Kilbarchan, of which Mr. Heron in 1792, gives rather
an unpleasing picture. The village contained about 1500 inhabitants, who
were mostly weavers, and very poor, as drinking was universal. On the
tenant farms the houses were almost uniformly covered with thatch, and it
was not uncommon for a farmer and his cattle to come in and go out at the
same door, and to lie under the same roof, but at different ends of the
house. Kilbarchan is now a prosperous town, and doubtless all these
survivals of an earlier day have long disappeared.
Lochwinnock, whence came John
Hunter, Walter Brock and others, is the name of a lake, and of a parish as
well. The former is very beautiful, and surrounded by highly cultivated
land. The village was inhabited chiefly by weavers.
Several of the signers of the Bond
of Association were from the parish of Govan, of whom only John Scot of
Hillsheadholm and James Whitelaw. of Whiteinch, in Old Monkland, came to
Ryegate. Govan is now a great ship-building place.
From Paisley came the Renfrews,
James Esden, John Park, the Orrs, James McKinley and others. Paisley lies
on both sides of the Black Cart, three miles from its junction with the
Clyde. The old part of the town, called the Barony Parish, is on rising
ground, on the west bank, while the new town is built on the level land to
the east, on lands which formerly belonged to the Abbey of Paisley. The
buildings inhabited by the monks are all gone, but the nave of the Abbey
church remains entire, and has been fitted up for a place of worship, and
in the cemetery around it lie many Gibsons, Renfrews, Gardners, and
others, early representatives of the same names in Ryegate, their
gravestones lying flat upon the ground.
Mr. Heron in 1792 says, "The highway
from Paisley to Glasgow led through a highly cultivated country, villas,
gardens and decorated fields covering its whole face, with hardly a
cottage to be seen, and this has been from ancient time one of the most
highly cultivated districts in all Scotland." Just outside of Glasgow he
came upon one of the first developments of a power destined to
revolutionize the manufactures of Great -Britain, which he mentions thus:
"Near Glasgow a cotton work was pointed out to me, the machinery of which
was wrought by steam. It is impossible to conjecture how far human
ingenuity may yet advance!"
Of Glasgow so much has been written
that no particular description need be given. It is notable that in 1773,
Dr. Johnson made his celèbrated "Tour to the Hebrides," and describes some
of the prominent features of the city. Several settlers of both Ryegate
and Barnet came from Glasgow, and one member of the Company, John Gardner,
a mathematical instument maker, constructed for James Whitelaw the
surveyor’s compass long used by him, now preserved in the capitol at
Montpelier.
Both the publications we have cited
speak of the emigration to America from the parishes we have mentioned, as
having attained alarming proportions, and that the prosperity of Glasgow
depended largely upon the American trade. The effects of the revolutionary
war had been disastrous in Glasgow, but commerce was reviving in 1782 and
its volume had almost doubled, ten years later. A great many business
houses had been established in America, managed by a brother, son, clerk
or partner of the Glasgow house.
From Balfron, in Stirlingshire,
about eighteen miles northwest from Glasgow, came James Henderson, William
Nelson, 2d, the Gilfillans of Barnet, and others, and its description from
the pen of Hon J. B. Gilfillan of Minnesota, who has lately visited it,
differs very little from that of George Crawford, a century and a half
ago. "Balfron lies in the region of Strathendrick, or valley of the
Endrick, a river somewhat smaller than the Passumpsic, flowing through the
bottom of the valley, and emptying into Loch Lomond. It is a village of
eight or nine hundred inhabitants, lying on the northerly slope of the
valley, overlooking much of it on both sides. Both slopes of the valley
are much extended, picturesque and beautiful, the landscape being made up
of field, forest, and farm house. Balliwickan castle and grounds are near
the village. The present kirk of Balfron has been built within a century,
and in the kirk-yard are found the names of many Gilfillans, Hendersons,
Bachops, and others."
Near Balfron, in the valley of the Endrick, lie
Buchanan, Kilmarnock, and Drymen, whence came many Ryegate and Barnet
people.
From Gargunnock, in the north part of Stirlingshire,
adjoining Balfron, came Col. Alexander Harvey, and others of Barnet. This
is a very picturesque parish, lying on the Forth, which is here remarkably
sinuous.
The Leitch and Ritchie families originated at
Roseneath, a most beautiful place on Gairloch, the Firth of Clyde and Loch
Long.
It has been stated in more than one publication that
the Scotch element in Newbury was an overflow from the Ryegate colony.
That the Scotch who settled in Newbury were attracted there by its
proximity to the settlement of their countrymen is probable, but the fact
remains that nearly all in that town came from Fifeshire, on the east
coast of Scotland, and most of them from the neighborhood of Markinch. The
Goodwillies were the only prominent family in Ryegate or Barnet, which
originated in Fife.
A journey through those portions of Scotland, whence
our colonists came, would take us among some of the most interesting
scenes of a land where, upon every hill and valley, glows the light of
history and song. There is no more attractive section in Great Britain,
and we may wonder how people could bring themselves to leave it for the
wilderness of North America.
A very few sentences taken here and there from the
works which we have cited, explain much of this:
"Lace-making," says Mr. Semple, in 1792, "is much
carried on at Renfrew, and girls are apprenticed to learn the work. Many
of them are taken from hospitals and other establishments for the care of
destitute children. It requires three or four years to learn the work, and
when learned one may earn 10d, or one shilling a day." "In a return made
some years ago of the rates of wages paid agricultural laborers in the
different counties of Great Britain and Ireland, it was found that
Renfrewshire men were the highest paid. The wages for out-workers in 1792,
were one shilling per week in winter, and five shillings in summer. Wages
for servants are £9 per year for men, and £4 for women. In 1772, they were
just one-half those sums."
No wonder that men and women in those highly favored
localities turned their thoughts toward emigration, but it is probable
that comparatively few of those who contemplated the change were able to
surmount the difficulties attending it. It was not easy to sever the ties
which bound them to their native land, and not a few turned back at the
last moment.
The expense of the voyage to America, in those days,
varied as widely as now. The newspapers of the time, in Glasgow, and other
seaports, contain advertisements of ships about to sail for American
ports, and refer the inquirer to the captain, or the owners, for
information, as to rates of passage. . It would seem that people made
individual bargains for their conveyance. The young men, usually, worked
their way as common seamen. Few, probably, could pay for a cabin passage;
most went in the steerage, which, in the best of weather, must have been
dismal enough. In storms the hatches were battened down, and the emigrants
had, for days, no light or fresh air. Six weeks was a quick passage, which
calms or contrary winds sometimes stretched to six months. Only the young
and hardy attempted the voyage, and the records of. some of our families
give, after a name— "Died on the passage to America." Some contracted ship
fever, from which they never entirely recovered.
The journal of Rev. David Sutherland of Bath, in his
voyage to America in June-August, 1803, gives some interesting
particulars. The passage occupied eleven weeks, in which there were eleven
days of calm, when they made no progress; thirteen days of head winds,
when .they were driven out of their course; eight of fog, and seven of
violent tempest, leaving only about forty days of favorable weather. Yet
the voyage was considered a very good one. We can only imagine what a
fearful thing a winter passage must have been. Most of the emigrants, in
after life, remembered the voyage with little pleasure. When the subject
of laying a telegraph cable between England and America was first
contemplated, two elderly Scotch people in Newbury were discussing the
idea, and one said, "Mr. Ross, you and I, who have crossed the ocean, know
that such a thing canna be!"
Mrs. John Barron, who lived on the river road, in
Bradford, used to relate how the Scotch people, on the way to Ryegate and
Barnet, used to stop to rest at her house, men, women and children, and of
their insatiable thirst for buttermilk.
Their ports of landing were, usually, Portsmouth,
Newburyport, Boston, and New York. Later emigrants came to Hartford,
completing the journey on foot, sending their goods by boat.
Col. William Wallace kept tavern in Newbury, and never
failed to welcome his country folk with a bountiful meal, and other
creature comforts, while all were sure of rest and rejoicing at the end of
their long journey.
We do not know how many emigrants left Scotland for
Ryegate in the earlier years, or the number who finally reached here. In
the letters written to Scotland by James Whitelaw from 1773 to 1800, he
mentions many names not given by Mr. Mason or Mr. Miller as residents, and
his correspondents in Scotland mention several persons as having left the
country for Ryegate. Of Hugh Gemmell and family, Patrick Reid and sons,
George Oswald, William and James Wilson, who were among those that came
here we know little or nothing.
In 1824, Gen. Whitelaw prepared an account of Ryegate
for Thompson’s Gazetteer, in which he says that in 1775 sixty persons left
Scotland for Ryegate, at one time, and reached Boston just before the
battle of Bunker Hill. Only one of the company—Elizabeth Shields who
married James Smith—was allowed to proceed on her journey, the rest were
detained in Boston by General Gage, who gave them their choice—to join the
British Army, go to Nova Scotia, or return to Scotland. Most returned to
Scotland; a few went to Nova Scotia, of whom only two, John and Robert
Hall, are known to have, many years later, come to Ryegate. Letters
written from Scotland about that time give the names of some of
them—William Bowie and family, James McBride and wife, Thomas Halley,
William Tassie and sons.
Mr. Mason, in one of his sketches, contrasting the
portions of Scotland which we have described, whence the Ryegate colonists
came, with the untamed wilderness which lay before them here, almost
wonders that they did not give up the task in despair and go back to their
native land. There were, no doubt, some misgivings, when they contemplated
what must be done before the dense forest could give place to fruitful
farms, but they had not come here just to go back again. In their journey
from the seaports where they had disembarked, they had passed through
portions of New England where they could observe the successive advances
of civilization into the wilderness. In 1773, the older portions of the
country had been settled as long as Ryegate has been settled now. As they
advanced into the interior they would be informed that periods of peace
with the Indians were marked by wide areas of new settlements. In the
older places the country and its dwellings had the aspect of long
established communities. As they proceeded, the country became new and
newer, till they came to Newbury and Haverhill, whose remarkable advance
had been the work of only ten years. They found there a condition which
had surprised the commissioners, where people seemed to have an abundance
of the necessaries of life, and lived in a state of plenty which they had
not known in Scotland. What Yankee grit had done in Newbury, Scotch grit
could do in Ryegate, and they bent their minds and bodies to the task
before them.
Some of the young men who came to this town worked for
awhile near the sea coast, or among their countrymen in the vicinity of
Londonderry, N. H. Others worked for a season or two in Newbury or
Haver-hill and earned money to pay for their land, or took their pay in
cattle or sheep with which to begin farming for themselves. Meantime they
learned Yankee ways. It will be remembered that only part of those who
settled here were members of the Company, and thus entitled to shares of
the land; the others were outsiders who purchased land where they could
get it.
If the whole territory of Ryegate was now covered with
such a forest as clothed its hills in 1773, the lumber would be worth more
than the assessed value of the real estate and personal property now in
the town. Such has been the rise in value of a product then considered as
an incubus, to be disposed of in the easiest way.
No one could have foreseen then, or predicted the
changes which time was to bring. Many farms were cleared in Ryegate, on
which there were once happy homes, surrounded by fields where men worked;
firesides around which the household gathered; where the father "took the
Book"; whence the evening psalm and the evening prayer ascended; and,
later, the stars and the hills watched over the sleeping farm house, where
there is now only a cellar with a few apple trees keeping guard over it
and broken walls show where once were well tilled fields. The old people
went to their long rest; the younger ones scattered; the farm sold; the
buildings went to decay. Many such the sad memories of the older people
recall.
It has been often suggested that Whitelaw and Allan
might have selected a better location than Ryegate for their colony, and
their reasons given for their choice have seemed inadequate to many. It is
easy, in the light of subsequent events, to criticize the actions of
people so long ago, but it seems to us that their choice was a prudent
one. It must be remembered, that in 1773, only a narrow strip along the
eastern edge of the continent, had been settled. At that time, what is now
the great state of Ohio, had not a single English settlement. It would not
have been safe to push far beyond the settled parts of the country. The
lands in the Mohawk Valley were then the frontier of civilization, and
were rich and valuable, but the commissioners did not like the people, and
their impressions of the inhabitants are like those recorded in the
journal of Gen. Jacob Bayley, of Newbury, and Rev. Henry True, of
Hampstead, who passed along the valley in the Old French War.
Had they formed a settlement there, they might have
perished in the revolution, as did the settlers of Cherry Valley, a
Scotch-Irish colony, in the massacres of 1778.
The commissioners chose Ryegate because it lay in the
midst of a country which was rapidly filling up with inhabitants more like
themselves than any other which they had visited, and where they felt that
the civil and religious ideas, in which they had been trained, would be
best preserved.
They were doubtful of this result elsewhere, and
doubtful of the influences in other localities. The first settlers of
Newbury were a religious people, and had hardly become settled in their
log cabins before they had obtained a minister, and stated preaching of
the gospel, and the church, organized in 1764, the oldest, but one, in the
state, has always been one of the strongest in the Connecticut Valley. The
Scotch settlers of Ryegate liked the English settlers of Newbury, the
Newbury people liked them, and their minister, Mr. Powers, took them under
his pastoral charge, while he remained.
Among the papers of Col. Thomas Johnson, preserved in
Newbury, are many letters from the early settlers of Ryegate and Barnet,
which indicate the regard and esteem with which the people of the whole
valley held these colonists, and we can only consider it as a favorable
circumstance that their lot was cast among congenial people. Had they
settled in an unfriendly community, with whom they could have had little
intercourse, where their religious views had met with opposition, it is
certain that dissatisfaction and removals would soon have depopulated the
colony.
Other considerations, as well as fertility of soil,
mildness of climate, or ease of cultivation, make a place desirable for
the residence of people -like the settlers of Ryegate and Barnet.
In a previous chapter we mentioned some of the causes
of the emigration from Scotland, which first settled the town. As the
years went on, other reasons for leaving the old country contributed to
increase the tide. The conscription which attended the wars of Napoleon
caused many young men to come to America in order to escape service in the
army.
The introduction of spinning machines, and later, of
the power loom, threw thousands of weavers and spinners out of employment,
many of whom found means to come to this country. But the strongest
inducement to emigration was the prosperity of their friends who had been
here for some years.
The letters which Mr. Whitelaw received from Scotland,
and are preserved, indicate to what an extent the idea of emigration had
taken hold of the public mind, and how carefully each point had been
considered. His abilities had raised him to a prominent position, and it
was with pride that his relatives and friends told that James had become a
great man in America. Mechanics, clerks, clergymen, schoolmasters,
farmers, men of every sort, rich and poor, wrote to him for advice as to
what part of the country the particular calling which each followed, would
find the best place for its exercise. |
|