been
much recommended to us by some people in Philadelphia but we found that
there was no one place large enough for our purpose but plenty too large
for our money, as wood lands sells here from 20 to 50 shillings pr. acre.
Here they have laid out a new town much after the plan of Philadelphia
which is building very fast. Here we met with some more of our old
friends, the Indians, who spoke English very well, and were likewise very
courteous, particularly one John Hendrick, son to King Hendrick, one of
the Mohawk Sachems, who was much renowned for a great warrior.
On the 2d of August we left this
place and set out for Carlile. We rode the Susquehanna a little below the
new town (which is called Sanbury) where it was upwards of half a mile
broad, as it took us 22 minutes to cross it, and it is about 2 feet deep
upon an average from side to side, and the stream pretty rapid, and at
this time it is at its lowest pitch.
The ground along the banks of this
river is very flat and good for about 8 miles, and watered by two small
rivers, called Penns Creek and Middle Creek, then it is rocky for several
miles, then tolerable flat and good till you come to the Blue Mountain,
and well watered by Juniatta river, after Crossing the blue Mountain we
came into the County of Carlile, which is pretty level and good land about
the town and all well settled. This, like all other American towns, is
laid out in squares, with straight streets, and contains a good deal of
inhabitants.
On Thursday, the 5th, we set out on
our way to Alexander Thomson’s, and on our way lodged with Allan Scrogg, a
farmer from Scotland, to whom we had been recommended. Here we met with an
uncommon large spring, which in the dryest season of the year affords
sufficient water for two breast milns. From this we went to Alexr.
Scrogg’s who is brother to the former, they have both got large
plantations, and Alexander in particular told us that about 36 years ago
they came over young men and he had only twenty pounds of stock and went
along viewing the country till he spent a great part of it, then went to
labour for some time after, after which he bought a large plantation, and
when his oldest son married, he gave him one half of it, and bought
another to his second son for 700 pounds, and what he has yet in his own
hand free of debt he says he will not part with for a thousand pounds.
From this we came to Shippensburgh
which is a small town containing 50 or 60 houses,—here we got directions
for finding Alexander Thomson’s which is about seven miles from this
place, and we arrived at his house in the afternoon, where we was kindly
entertained, as he had been looking for us a long time. Here we stayed ten
days to refresh our horses, which was in very much need of it by this
time. He has got an excellent plantation of 400 acres of land for which he
paid 500£ currency, which is nigh 300£ ster: It lies about 150 miles from
Philadelphia, but their nighest landing is Baltimore in Maryland, which is
only 90 miles from him, though they have to cross the blue ridge in going
to it. This is a fertile soil and all lying upon limestone and this valley
continues through all the Provinces of Pennsylvania, Maryland and Virginia
and lies between the Blue ridge and North Mountain, and as it goes
southward grows wider till it is so broad that one can scarce see over it.
The south side of it is all limestone and exceeding good land, and the
north part of it is what they call slate land and is not very good.
Alexander Thomson had 50 acres Clear
when he bought his plantation, and has cleared other 50 himself, he has
plenty of all kinds of grain and he seems to be exceedingly well pleased
with his situation, and they have never one of his family been sick since
he came to this place, and he says he thinks people are in general more
healthy there than in Scotland. He told us that all the lands in or nigh
that place was taken up but he could buy plenty of single plantations with
improvements on them for about three pounds sterling an acre, as he told
us that many people in that neighborhood was selling their plantations and
going back to the Ohio, and he thought that would be the best place for
us. But after we made all the enquiry about it that we could, we did not.
think it a fit place for us. For though it is allowed by all to be the
best land in America, yet it lies entirely out of the way of all trade,
being 300 miles of land carriage from the nearest navigation, and the
river itself is fit for no other vessels but canoes or battoes of two or
three tons burden, and the lowest settlements on the Ohio are above 2000
miles from the mouth of the Mississippi, and tho two men can go down with
one of those battoes in twenty days, yet twelve men will have much adoe to
bring it up again in five months, so that there is little probability of
ever having much trade there, and though the people can have some sale for
their produce in the meantime to new settlers, yet in a few years that
market will naturally cease, and though they can raise all the necesarys
of life, they can never have any money for their grain, as the price of
two bushels will have adoe to bring one to market, and salt sells there
just now at 20 shillings a bushel. Rum, and all other things which are
brought from the sea coast sells at the like extravagant price.
The province of Pennsylvania seems
the most desirable to live in of any place we have yet seen, but it is
mostly settled where it is good, and what is to settle is very dear as you
cannot have an acre of good land within 150 miles of any landing for less
than twenty or thirty shillings.
Here the people are kind and
discreet, except the Dutch or Germans who inhabit the best lands in this
province, who are a set of people that mind nothing of gayety.but live
niggardly and gather together money as fast as they can without having any
intercourse with anybody but among themselves. Most of the people in this
Province look fresh and healthy, except the women who have for the most
part lost their teeth, with eating too many fruits which they have here in
great plenty.
Here they have plenty of good horses
and all other kinds of cattle, and the ground produces wheat, barley, Rye,
Indian Corn, oats, buckwheat, flax, peas and beans of various kinds. They
have likewise Melons, Cucumbers, squashes, gourds and pumpkins -growing in
the open fields, and their gardens are well supplied with all kinds of
roots and other garden stuffs that are to be found in Europe.
The air is commonly clear, and the
country is as healthy as any place in Europe, excepting only where there
are large Marshes or ponds of stagnated water, which is dangerous for
agues but we have not yet seen one have the ague since we came to the
Country. The summer is pretty hot, but not to such a degree as people at
home are taught to believe. They tell us the winters are mostly frosty,
but clear, sun shine weather, which prevents it from being so cold as it
would otherways be.
On Tuesday, August 17, we left
Alexander Thomsons and set out towards the south, and after passing a very
small town called Chamberstown, we came into the Province of Maryland, and
lodged at night in a handsome little town of about 150 houses, called
Heagerstown. We left this in the morning, and came next to Sharpsburg,
which is about the same bigness, and about midday came to Potomack river,
and crossed over to Sheepherdstown in Virginia.
This small part of Maryland which we
came through is part of the forementioned valley and is very good land and
all settled.
Sheepherdstown is upon the banks of
the Potomack (but about 70 miles above the falls) and contains about 70 or
80 houses. Here we met with Thomas White, and he and us spent the evening
in viewing the town and the country about it, and in the morning went
along with us to his acquaintances through the country to make what
inquiry we could about lands, hut could hear of none in this government
without going 2 or 300 miles from navigation. The country here is very
good and the people healthy.
We next set out for Carolina and
after Crossing Shanadore river we came over the blue ridge and down to the
heart of Virginia, and we went down the south side of Potomack river and
came through several towns such as Alexandria, Colchester, Dumfriee and
Aquaia, and then across the Country and crossed Rappahanock River between
Falmouth and Fredericksburgh and next we crossed the head of York River at
Herrs bridge, then over James river and so through the country and over
Roanoak at Taylor’s Ferry, after which we came into North Carolina.
The people in the lower parts of
Virginia complain much of sickness at this season of the year, but higher
up they are pretty healthy. Here they have excellent Indian Corn in some
places, but the ground is mostly sandy and poor, and the places that are
good are all planted with Tobacco, and here is but little wheat or other
grain. The planters here live well and are all quite idle, as none but
negroes work here, of which some planters will have several hundreds,
which at an average are worth 60 or 70 pounds ster: apiece, and in these
all their riches consists, for there are few of them but are in debt to
the storekeepers, and it commonly takes all their Crops to Cloath
themselves and their negroes. But those that are industrious and labour
themselves, and particularly they who make grain, can make a good deal of
money, as the grain sells pretty well and does not require one half of the
labour that tobacco does.
About four miles from Roanoak we
came into North Carolina, and went right to Mr. Allason’s house. The land
from the line of the province to this place is for the greatest part very
sandy and much of it covered with pines, and in some places a kind of red
clay mixed with sand, and the wood mostly oak here. Mr. Allason has got a
good plantation lying along the side of a creek, and he tells us he has
bought two other good plantations, and could buy plenty more very
reasonably, but he does not think that our scheme will suit this place
well, as there are no tracts of good land to be had in one place, as the
good lands lie mostly in narrow strips along the water sides, and the
people settle on these places and keep the high grounds for range to their
Cattle, for which they are excellent, as these pine grounds are all
covered with excellent grass. (We arrived here on Tuesday, August the 31
in the afternoon). The lands here sells from ten to twenty shillings P.
acre, and we can hear of no person that has any large tract in one place
to dispose of.
On Wednesday, the 8th of September,
we left Mr. Allasons and at night arrived at Bute, where we were kindly
entertained by Mr. William Park, from Renfrew and after telling him our
plan, he advised us to Call upon one Mr. Montfort, in Halifax, who he told
us had the best tract of land to dispose of that he knew of in that
country. Mr. Park was so kind as to give us a letter of recommendation to
him, we had likewise a letter of recommendation to him from Mr. David
Sproat in Philadelphia.
On Thursday, the 9th, we left Bute
and arrived at Hallifax on Friday forenoon when we went and Called for the
above mentioned Mr. Montfort who used us very civilly and told us of
several tracts of land that he had to dispose of, one of which lay in Bute
County and was the one recommended to us by Mr. Park. He told us that it
contained nearly 6000 acres, the whole as well watered as any tract of the
same quantity in America, having many very constant and fresh running
streams through it. There is not 200 acres in the whole but what he told
us is fit for tillage and much of it excellent for wheat and tobacco. He
told us there were 4 plantations Cleared and tended thereon, perhaps the 4
Containing in all about 400 acres of cleared land, all the rest wood land.
He told us likewise that there was a good grist miln on a fine constant
stream, which has never too much or too little water, and that there are
several barns & small houses on the different plantations and his price is
9000£ Virginia Currency or 7000£ sterling. He likewise told us that he had
a tract of land in Halifax County of about 2400 acres, one part of which
is within 4 miles of Halifax town, and the farthest part of it is about 7
or 8 miles from said town. There is in this tract a great variety of kinds
of soil, it is all level and pretty well watered, is mostly wood land,
some a light sandy soil, some a very strong Marley soil, and very stiff,
other parts a mixture between the two, finely timbered with Pine, oak and
Hickory, a great deal of it proper for making the finest meadows. This
land he will sell for 1000 pounds ster. if taken soon, and he says is
worth a great deal more.
He told us also of another tract of
land that he had on the head of Broad River, in Tryon County, Containing
nearly 7000 acres, and all of it as rich, fine land as any yet discovered
in America, being all of it Cane land or high low grounds, which never
overflows and grows full of Cane reeds, well timbered and watered and most
excellent for raising cattle and Horses. It is all naturally enclosed by
the steep, high mountains from the west side round by the north by the
east, and is only open to the southeast where a waggon road may go easy
and level along the river side into the land. This place was formerly
known by the name of the great cove and is of late years known by the name
of Montfort’s Cove. This land pays to the Crown four shillings
Proclamation money of North Carolina P. hundred quit rent P. annum.
He will take one thousand five
hundred pounds ster. for this tract of land if a purchaser offers soon and
pays down at the time of agreement and receiving title, but unless that
happens within six or seven months of this time, he says he will not take
under two thousand that money. He says if the whole is not as good land as
to be found in the upper, he will not desire any person to be bound by the
bargain they make for it.
About 80 miles from this land there
are one or two places of trade on rivers Navigable for large Boats—it lies
200 miles to Charlestown on a fine waggon road.
After having dined with Mr. Montfort
we set out on our way for Edinton, where we arrived on Monday, the 13th.
The country a good way down from Halifax is nothing but barren sand, and
when you go lower down the ground is low, flat and marshy and along the
banks of the Roanoak the lands are very rich, but so low and flat that in
great freshets the river overflows it for several miles and sweeps all
before it. The land about Edinton is all either barren sand or watery
swamps. When we came to Edinton we called for Mr. Smith, to whom we had
been recommended by Mr. Sproat in Philadelphia. He told us of large tracts
of good land upon pretty good navigation, but the price high and the
Climate sickly. As to the soil of Carolina we have told in the beginning
of our description of it that there are strips of good ground along the
sides of rivers and creeks, and the rest sandy and mostly Covered with
pines and fit for nothing but raising of cattle which is the only thing
the people in this country depend upon. The grass in the woods is rank and
good, and the winter being short they can rear cattle without much cost or
care. The soil will produce Indian Corn pretty well, which is the only
grain the people live upon. Some of their ground will produce wheat, but
in small quantitys and it must be thrashed out immediately when cut, or
else they lose it by being eat by a small insect called a wevle. They have
cotton, tobacco and some small quantitys of indigo and rice in some
places, but the Culture of indigo is so unhealthy that they reason if a
negro lives ten years and works among it they have a good bargain of him.
Note: John Wilson, an early settler
of Ryegate, and a native of Scotland, whence he went to sea; and, about
1815, was living at Edinton (Edmandton) wrote to General Whitelaw.
As to the climate, it is exceedingly
hot in June, July and August, and very Cold in January and February, and
the rest of the year temperate, and in the back parts the people are
healthy, but after we came below Halifax we did not enter one single house
but we found sick persons, and in some we could not find one whole person
to feed our horses. As to religion, we scarce saw any appearance of it in
this Country, but the establishment is Episcopal.
Finding that we could do nothing
there, we left Edinton on Monday afternoon, and returned on our way to the
North Country again, and in our way passed through Suffolk, which is a
handsome little town in the lower parts of Virginia, and on Wednesday, the
15th, we got to Norfolk, which is the largest town in Virginia, and stands
on a river deep enough to bring large ships up to the town. This town
seems to be about the bigness of Greenock, and seems to have a good deal
of trade. Here we was obliged to stay till Saturday before we could get a
fair wind to Carry us over the Bay. This passage is about 60 miles, viz.:
from Norfolk down to the Bay 25 miles; across the bay to the eastern shore
35 miles. We crossed this bay (viz. Cheesapeak) within sight of the Capes
of Virginia, and by going this road we brought 14 ferrys all into one
which we would have had to cross if we had gone by the post road, and we
likewise shortened our road above 20 miles. After crossing at this place
we went through several handsome little towns, such as Snowhill,
Crossroads, Dover, Wilmington, Chester and Derby, and arrived at
Philadelphia on the 26th of September. All the way from Edinton till you
come within about 60 miles of Philadelphia the ground is light and sandy
and for the most part does not produce above 10 or 12 bushels of wheat P.
acre, but when you come within 60 miles of Philadelphia, the ground
Changes from sand to good brown earth and will produce large crops of
wheat or any other grain, here it is exceeding pleasant traveling at this
season of the year, as the fields are all quite green with young wheat
which makes a much better appearance than it does in Scotland at this time
of the year.
We traveled about 500 miles (viz,
from Halifax in Carolina to Dover which is within 80 miles of
Philadelphia) without seeing a stone of any kind, or any sort of eminence,
the ground being for the most part sandy and perfectly level, and in all
that 500 miles we was not in five houses but some of the people was sick
of the fever and ague or some other disease, but we have reason to bless
God that though we have traveled through such a sickly country, we are now
arrived in perfect health at a place where such sicknesses seldom or never
appear. (I never expected to have stood the journey so well—for though we
have rode niore than 500 miles since we bought our horscs, I have not been
in the least weary, and the cough I had in Scotland has entirely
disappeared.—Letter.)
After having refreshed ourselves and
horses and discussed what business we had to do, we left Philadelphia on
the first of October and came to Princetown that night, and next day we
bargained with Dr. Witherspoon for one-half of the township of Ryegate.
We left Princeton on the 5th and
arrived at New York on the 6th, and James Henderson arrived here from
Philadelphia, with his chest and tools on the 9th and having found a sloop
to carry James Henderson with his and our Chests and what Tools and other
utensils we had purchased, to Hartford, On the Connecticut river, and
having discussed what other business we had to do, we left New York on
19th of Oct., and arrived at Newbury or Kohass on the 1st day of November,
and put up with Jacob Bayly, Esq., to whom we was recommended by John
Church, Esq., one of the proprietors of Ryegate, and James Henderson
arrived about a week after us in a canoe with our chests and tools and
some provisions we had bought down the Country, such as Rum, Salt,
Molasses, etc. On the 30th of the month Mr. Church came up and we divided
the town, the south part whereof has fain to us, which in our opinion, and
in the opinion of all that knows it, has the advantage of the north in
many respects. 1st, it is the best land in general. 2d, nearest to
provisions which we have in plenty within 3 or 4 miles and likewise within
6 of a grist and two miles of a saw miln, all of which are great
advantages to a new settlement. 3d, we have several brooks with good seats
for milns, and likewise Wells River runs through part of our purchase and
has water enough for 2 breast milns at the driest season of the year, of
which the north part is almost entirely destitute. 4th, there is a fall in
Connecticut river just below our uppermost line which causeth a carrying
place for goods going up or down the river. 5th, we are within six miles
of a good Presbyterian meeting and there is no other minister above that
place.