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THERE are not many
prehistoric remains to be found in this parish. On the Harkenburn, within
the Penicuik grounds, there can, however, be seen evidences of circular
formations, which may possibly be of early British origin. On the farm of
Braidwood also, on the summit of a low hill, there are the remains of an
oval camp 84 yards long by 61 broad, enclosing a number of tumuli 11 yards
each in diameter. It has three entries, and has been encompassed by ditches
about four yards each in width. It is frequently referred to by the country
people as the Roman camp or castle, but as these were square, it is unlikely
that their surmises can have any foundation in fact. It may belong to early
times, but more probably it has been a place erected for the safety of
cattle during the troublous days in Scotland, when predatory incursions from
the borders were of frequent occurrence. Fortalices or castles existed at
Penicuik, Brinistane, Braidwood, Ravensneuk, Coaltown, and Loganhouse, and
it is quite likely that the owners of some of these would make provision for
the protection of their vassals and their cattle within these strong and
high walls, the mere foundations of which are only now visible to the
student of antiquity. There has been some evidence, however, of Roman
remains in another quarter of the parish. In the year 1801, when a
foundation was being dug for the present farm-house at Patieshill, four
flags with a cover were laid open, enclosing an urn of coarse glazed
yellowish brown earthenware, with two ears to lift it by, having a rude
representation of a man's face on each of then. It contained ashes, and near
to it were two iron spurs of an uncommon form. A little way below the house
there were then to be seen also the remains of a kiln for drying corn. It
was considered by antiquaries of that period to have been the site of a
Roman camp or redoubt. Alexander Gordon, in his Itinerariam (published
1726-1730., says that one of their stations was at Whitfield, a mile and a
half distant; and as a fort at the entrance of the valley would be of great
strategic importance, it is very probable that the theory on this subject
was correct. As these places which have 'car' or 'caer' affixed to their
names are often in the neighbourhood of Roman stations, it is reasonable to
suppose also that the village of Carlops, or rather the ground whereon the
village stands, may have been so called.
Another object of antiquarian
interest, and a connecting link with those far-off times when Newhall and
its monastery were occupied by the Cistercian monks, is the stone which is
still to be seen on the top of Monks Ridge, near to the old path which
crosses the hill. It is of oblong form, with deep indentations, evidently
meant for the knees of the worshippers at a cross which originally stood in
the centre of the stone, but which has long since disappeared. In the year
1833, two shepherds, by name John Tod and James Aitken, turned over the
stone with levers, and were rewarded by obtaining possession of a few copper
coins. I have been unable to trace the subsequent history of these coins, or
to ascertain the date of their coinage.
The large dome which forms
part of the offices at Penicuik House, though not in itself an object of
antiquarian interest, is still worthy of notice as the only existing
representation or model of what was in its time the oldest building in
Scotland. '!'leis curious-looking beehive structure was built last century
by Sir James Clerk, as a facsimile of the famous Arthur's O'on, which stood
on the river Carron. The origin, and still more the reputed inscription on
this curious building, lead been frequently a matter for serious discussion
between Baron Sir John Clerk and his antifuarian friend Gordon, author of
the Itincrarium. The latter, I may say, believed the O'on to have been a
Roman temple erected to Agricola. It was pulled down by the Laird of
Stonehouse in 1743, and its materials were used by him in the building of it
dam.
MOUNT LOTHIAN CHAPEL
Little now remains to mark
the site of the old church and churchyard,--the dike, which was with pious
care built round them by a former proprietor, having almost entirely
disappeared. The situation of the walls, most of which were taken to build
the neighbouring farm-steading, can still, however, be traced, and
sufficient interest is shown in time old place by those living in the
district to warrant me in including it in the chapter on Antiquities. The
country round having always been thinly peopled, the old l)ari h church of
Mount Lothian (sometimes by a mistaken tradition called Monkslothian) was of
little value, being rated in the ancient taxation at only twelve merks.
Mr. Cosmo Innes, in his
Origines Parochiales, mentions that the land surrounding it was given by
King William the Lion, about the year 1180, to the Cistercian monks of
Newbattle; but it is likely, I think, that the transaction which he quotes
would only be a confirmation granted by the king. It was the law of Scotland
that no grant by a vassal, given by way of mortification, could stand
without the consent of his superior, and it appears probable that Mount
Lothian belonged at a very early period to the Lords of Restalrig, who
gifted portions of it to the Newbattle ecclesiastics.
The following is a rough
translation of a very old undated Latin charter by Edward of Restalrig and
Mount Lothian, waking such a conveyance:-
"To the Faithful of Holy
Church Edward of Restalrig - greeting: And be it known to posterity, and to
those now living, that I have given and by charter have confirmed as a gift
to the Church of St. Mary at Newbattle, and the religious thereto attached,
the half of Mountludyan in the woodland, in the plain, in the meadows and
pastures, in waters, in roads, and in footways, together with all the cut
timber to such land appertaining, and one toft in Leith, for the wellbeing
of my soul, and for the souls of my wife and heirs, and for the souls of my
father and another and my predecessors, as alms, for all time coining, to be
possessed by them in freedom and in peace from all taxation and such
usages."
In the year 1223 an exchange
of certain of their properties was effected between the monks of Holyrood
and Newbattle, by which the former obtained Mount Lothian in excambion for
the lands of Romanoch [Romanno]. In April 1251, David, bishop of St.
Andrews, fixed stipends to be paid to the vicars serving the churches
belonging to the Abbey of Holyrood, and in the case of Mount Lothian he made
provision that when the Church had not means to support a vicar, it should
be served by a sufficient chaplain. The insufficiency of its revenues caused
an arrangement of this kind to be frequently necessary. Even in more recent
days the minister of Penicuik had Mount Lothian occasionally in charge, and
at other times readers were appointed to conduct the services.
After the Reformation—an
event which severed its connection with Holyrood—the cure was served by the
vicar. In 1635, the church, with all its rights and revenues, was
transferred to the Episcopate of Edinburgh, but this connection only lasted
for a short period. The parish itself was finally absorbed in that of
Penicuik about the year 1638, when all need for a separate ecclesiastical
establishment was at an end. The churchyard, however, continued to be used
for long afterwards. A curious entry in the Session Minutes records the fact
that, on the 8th August 1682, one John Ballantyne was summoned and rebuked
for making a grave at Mount Lothian Chapel, thus defrauding the bellman out
of his just and lawful dues. For many hundred years after the gift of the
Church Iands, Mount Lothian continued in possession of the Restalrig family.
I find, for instance, that on May 3d, 1543, at Fast Castle (where his
notorious grandson proposed to imprison King James), Robert Logan, lord of
the lands and baronies of Restalrig and Mountloudane, with consent of his
father and David Wod of Craig, his curator, gave charter to Margaret Ellen,
spouse of Robert Loan, his father, for her liferent use of the lands and
barony of Mountloudian, with tenants, etc. This charter was confirmed by the
Crown on September 27th, 1543. On January 20th, 1579, the lands of Mount
Lothian, and the other possessions of Robert Logan, Were apprised for debt,
and he became eventually bankrupt. In 1596, Andrew Loan of Coatfield, a
cadet of the family, purchased the property, and it continued to be owned by
his successors until after the year 1668, but the exact (late of their
alienation I have not discovered. I find from the Session records that a Mr.
William Kintore, advocate, was a heritor in virtue of his possession of them
in 1698.
This gentleman sold the lands
of Mount Lothian and Herbershaw to Sir John Ramsay of Whitehill for 15,500
marks, under right of redemption at a certain date, and on condition that if
they were not so redeemed they should become the purchaser's absolute
property by a further payment of 2500 marks.
Kintore did not redeem them,
and a lawsuit ensued in 1699, the result of which was apparently in favour
of Ramsay, for in 1703 there is record of the sale of the lands by him to
Patrick Murray, who was thereafter designed of Mount Lothian.
The Murrays retained
possession for a considerable period, but the property was finally purchased
by the Clerks of Penicuik, and it still remains in that family.
BRUNSTANE CASTLE.
This fine memorial of
sixteenth-century architecture, the old seat of the Crichtons, is still in a
state of good preservation. It presents the appearance of having been a very
large irregular building of great strength, with vaulted rooms, and the
walls pierced for defensive purposes. About the beginning of the century it
was still surrounded by a deep fosse or ditch, and, situated as it is on the
edge of a deep ravine, it must have been a place capable of making very
considerable resistance to an enemy. Over the principal doorway is carved a
shield with lion rampant, and the letters J. C., the initials of the
builder. A scroll to right and left of it contains the date of building,
1568, and certain almost undecipherable letters, which I think must be ANO -
DNI. In the Penicuik churchyard, immediately behind the burying-place of the
Newhall family, there also exists on the wall the family crest, in excellent
preservation. It is, argent, a lion rampant, armed and langued gales, within
a border, engrailed, of the second. The history of the family who occupied
the castle and grounds for over two hundred years contains items of varied
interest.
In 1373, David of Penicok,
for food advice and service rendered to him, granted to his cousin, William
of Creichtoune, lord of that Ilk, his whole lands of Burnstoune and
Welchtoune, with their pertinents, lying in his lands and lordship of
Penicok. These lands were to he held by the said William of Creichtoune and
Thomas of Creichtoune his son, and failing the latter by death, without
leaving lawful heirs of his body, by Edward Creichtoune his brother. The
reddendo, or condition of holding the property, was a red rose, payable to
the superior if asked for, on the ground of Brunistoune, at the feast of the
Nativity of St. John the Baptist. This charter was confirmed by King Robert
II. at Scone, on 29th March 1373, in the third year of his reign. Two years
later, another charter of confirmation is given by the same king, of a part
of the lands of Braidwood, to William of Creichtoune, and from this William
of Creichtoune, lord of that Ilk, and from his son Edward, descended the
family of Brunstane. In July 1410 a charter passed under the Great Seal, of
the lands of Gilberton, to Margaret Creichtoune, spouse of William of
Creichtoune. These lands, which lie near Portobello, now also bear the name
of Brunstane, and were held in chief of the king, for service of ward and
relief. In 1447 'Thomas Creichtoune had saline of the lands of Gilberton. In
1456 George Creichtoune had also sasine. In 1461 John Creichtoune was
retoured heir. In 1487 Edward Creichtoune succeeded to the estate of
Burrnistone and Gilberton. In a charter executed by him of the lands in
1493, he resigns them temporarily into the lands of the superior, John
Penycuke of that Ilk, owing to his wife, Agnes Cockburn, having judicially
renounced her right of terce. The witnesses to this document, whose names
are given below, are all apparently men in the employment of the
contracting; parties, and consequently former residents in our parish. They
were—William Bortlhwic, Patrick Vaich, Bulfred Ilaliburton, James Gyll, John
Red, William Adanmson, William Bernard, John Zougar, Robert Thomsone, John
Forestar, John Barthilomew, and James Zoung, notary-public. On 27th April
1507, Edward Creichtoune was succeeded by his son John in all his lands ;
but in December of that year the latter resigned the lands of Gilberton,
with mansion and orchards, into the king's hands, who granted them to
Patrick Creichtoune of Kinglassy, son of his familiar, Sir Patrick
Creichtoune of Cranston-Redell, knight, under reservation of John Creich ton
ne's liferent and his wife's terce. It would appear that Patrick had
advanced money to John, and obtained his lands of Gilberton as security. He
had also given the lands of Bruniston in warrandice, for on 1st July 1530 he
obtained sasine of the lands of Brunistone, Welchstoune, Braidwood, and
Ravenshaugh; and the deed narrates how he had, knowingly and willingly, by
staff' and batoun, resigned these lands into the hands of his superior, John
Penycuke of that Ilk; whereupon the said John Penveuke passed personally
with witnesses to the principal passage of said lands of Brunistoune, and
gave sasine of all the above-mentioned lands to the said John Creichtoune,
by delivery to him of the same staff and batoun, and of earth and stone of
the ground of said lands, conform to use and wont. On same date John
Penvcuke of that Ilk, at the instance of an honourable man, John Creichtoune
of Brunistoune, passed to the chief passage of the lands, and there the said
John Creichtoune, with consent of his spouse, Janet Hamilton, resigned his
lands into the hands of the said John Penycuke; and thereafter the latter
gave sasine of them unto an honourable man, Alexander Crcichtoune, son and
heir-apparent of the said John Creichtoun, but With the reservation of the
liferents of Welchstoune and Braidwood, so long as he and his wife lived.
This Alexander Creichtoune was a man of note in
his day. Ile was at first in the service of the Crown, and employed on
missions to France. He was also in the service of Cardinal Beaton, but seems
to have quarrelled with him; and he afterwards threw himself into the hands
of the English faction, and was a leading spirit in their councils. Beaton
had become particularly odious to those of the Scottish Barons who were
engaged to support the schemes of Henry VIII. his subtle statesmanship had
frustrated their designs and baffled all the diplomacy of the English Court.
Creichtoune was it personal friend of George Wishart the martyr, whom Beaton
hated, and it is almost certain that the Castle of Brunstane was one of his
frequent places of refuge while he was in hiding from his wily foe. In the
month of July 1545 Creichtoune opened communication with Sir Ralph Sadler,
King Henry's commissioner, touching the killing of the Cardinal. This met
with a willing response, on which Sadler hinted at a reward for the deed,
also noting with some emphasis the 'glory to God ' that would accrue. This
did not quite satisfy I3runistanc, and in October of the same year he sent
several communications to England with the object of not only obtaining
reward but protection. In this, however, he failed, and he finally appears
to have determined not to attempt the deed unless under the express sanction
of the English Privy Council. Meanwhile Beaton, confident in his position
and in his powers, proceeded to greater extremities. Amongst these was the
execution of the learned and gentle Wishart. The Cardinal's cup, however,
was now full to running over, for on 29th May 1546 he was assassinated in
his own castle by Kirkcaldy of Grange, Lesly, Melville, and others. After
this time, Creichtoune, along with the Earls of Angus, Cassilis, Lennox,
Glencairn, and many others, shamefully deserted the cause of their country
and espoused the English interest. It is believed that it was through
Creichtoune's influence that Lord Grey, at the head of an army, invaded the
eastern marches, burning the towns of Dalkeith and Mussellburglh, and laid
waste the country nearly to the walls of Edinburgh. He was in consequence of
these deeds attainted for high treason, and his castle of Brunistane burnt
to the ground. On his attainder the lands of Brunistane, Braidwood,
Welshtoun, and Ravenshau ;h were granted by the Crown to James Sym, burgess
of Edinburgh. On 22nd January 1554 there was a royal precept directed to
John Penvcuke of that Ilk, commanding him to enter by charter and sasine the
above James Sym in the lands; and on 26th January 1554 the laird of Penycuke,
as superior of the lands, accordingly granted him charter of these lands,
mentioning that they had belonged to the deceased Alexander Creielhtoune,
who had been convicted of treason. James Sym almost immediately afterwards
resigned them in favour of John Creichtoune, son of the late Alexander. John
married Margaret Adamson of Craigcrook, and in the year 1568 rebuilt the
castle of Brunstane. In November 1597, with consent of his wife and his son
James, he entered into a contract for alienating their other estate of
Gilberton to Dame Jean Fleming, Lady Thirlestane. Charter of sale followed,
and thus passed away from the Creichtounes those lands, which were however
destined to preserve a memorial of their former owners in the name 'Brunstane.'
The family was soon, however, to lose their still older hereditary estates.
James Creiclltoune succeeded his father, and he again was succeeded by his
son Thomas. The latter sold Brunstane and its pertinents about the year
1609, and emigrated along with his brother Abraham to Ireland, where many
decayed Scots families and younger sons of those in better circumstances
found a field for a fresh start in life. In the enrolments for shares in the
Plantation of Ulster I find that Thomas Creichtoune received 2000 acres ;
and, on his becoming surety for £400 for his brother Abraham, he also
received a similar grant. The only other allusion to this family which has
come under my notice is a short extract in the Register of the Great Seal,
of date October 18th, 1637, which introduces the name of David Creichton as
a residenter in the kingdom of Ireland, and states that he is the heir of
'Thomas Creichton, eldest lawful son of James Creichton, formerly of
Brunston. When sold by the Creichtouns, the properties of Brunston,
Welchtoun, and Braidwood were in all likelihood purchased by Mr. John
Preston, the owner of I'enicuik. They were at least part of his possessions
at the time of his death, and I have not come across the name of any
intermediate owner.
LOGAN TOWER. All that
now remains of this interesting old hill-fortalice is a portion of one of
its towers. It is much to he regretted that some twelve years ago the
remains of another tower to the north side were undermined and blasted, and
the stones taken to build all addition to the neighbouring farm-stealing of
Kirkton. Some of the original castle staircase may also, I believe, be now
seen forming part of a series of outside steps at time gamekeeper's cottage,
some five or six hundred yards farther down the hill. Logan Tower has been
frequently described as a hunting seat of time Scottish kings when they
resided at Holyrood. This tradition has, so far as I have been able to
ascertain, no foundation in fact. Its another chapter dealing with its
successive owners I have shown that the estate of Loganhouse belonged of old
to the St. Clairs of Roslin, and it is an undoubted fact that it was
frequently occupied by them. On 3d April 1593, for instance, the Laird of
Rosslyn declared to the Synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, when they had upon
one occasion to deal with him, 'that he was nane of the Parochinaris of
Leswaid, but fine of the Parochinaris of St. Catlierines of the Hopes, in
respect that his residence was in Loganhouse Tower'. A short account of its
buildings by the late Andrew Kerr, architect, who visited the locality in
1877, a year before the demolition I have referred to, will give some idea
of its appearance at that time. he says that the place has consisted
originally of a single tower built in rubble-work of the local stone, and
with walls three or four feet thick. The ground floor was all that then
remained, and consisted of one vaulted apartment 20 feet long by 17 feet
wide, entered by a door to the side. On the north side, he says, an
additional tower with an enclosing wall forming part of a courtyard had been
erected early in the fifteenth century, probably by William, third Earl of
Orkney, as it was of the same character as the addition made by him at
Rosslyn Castle. The courtyard wall, at the date of Mr. Kerr's visit, had
been entirely removed, probably, I suppose, to make way for the shepherd's
house, which now occupies a portion of the site of the old buildings.
HOWLET'S HOUSE.
On the edge of a scaur to the right-hand side of
the road, and about halfway up the Loganlea Reservoir, there are still to be
seen the remains of an old building called the Howlet's Hall, or House. It
is supposed by old residenters to have been a dog-house connected with Logan
Tower. This is evidently a mistaken tradition. "Mr. Kerr, who visited it
when exploring the other objects of interest in the valley, was of opinion
that it had probably been a chapel with accommodation for a priest, and
perhaps used before the old chapel of St. Catherine's, which is now covered
by the waters of Glencorse Reservoir; possibly it may have been that St.
Catherine's Chapel in Pentland which, about the year 1230, Henry de Tirade,
Knight, granted to the monks of Holyrood tithes of all his moorland and of
his land of Bavilaw to keep up and maintain public worship in, as recorded
in munimenta Sancte Crucis, p. 45. When first seen by Mr. Kerr, the east
gable, with its window, was quite entire, also the complete circular arched
roof of the apartment, and a stone basin built into the wall. Wind and
weather have, however, sadly despoiled the old building since that tune, and
though a portion of the arched roof still exists, the remains of the old
chapel, if such it was, are gradually disapearing from sight.
RAVENSNEUK CASTLE.
This old home of the St. Clairs is situated on
an eminence on the south Dank of the Esk, within the plantation bordering
the farm of Ravensneuk. It is fast disappearing from sight, and at its
present rate of decay there will soon not be one stone left upon another to
mark the spot where formerly it stood. At the ]resent time a portion of the
wall a few feet high is still existing upon the north side, and the remains
of two gables about 57 feet apart mark the extent of at least one part of
the ancient building. It has apparently been a place of considerable
strength, with the walls pierced for defensive purposes. Not enough remains,
however, to indicate with any certainty the style of its architecture or the
probable date of its erection.
Along with the lands of Cairnhill on the
opposite side of the river, both Easter and Wester Ravensneuk were until the
close of the seventeenth century part of the barony of Roslin. The former
mentioned portion was however alienated at a very early period, and there is
now no means of ascertaining its extent. The Cairn-hill cottages, which once
stood on the rising ground to the right after passing the Kersewell road
going westwards, would mark one of its boundaries, and it probably extended
to Braidwood and Brunstane on the one side, and on the other to the Loan
Burn on the north side of the farm of Cornbank, then called Cairnbank.
Before proceeding to speak of the subject of
Rvensneuk and its castle, it may perhaps be as suitable here as elsewhere to
give my readers a short account of this other portion of the Roslin barony
situated in our parish.
At a very early period it came into the
possession of Sir George Crechton of Carnes, Lord high Admiral of Scotland.
For some cause or another this gallant gentleman resigned his honours and
his lands in the King's hands without the consent of his son and heir, Sir
James. The latter rebelled, and took the extreme step of imprisoning his
father in Blackness Castle. The King went to the assistance of his admiral,
besieged the castle in great force, and finally took it. Sir James had
however recovered part of the paternal estates, for on 19th May 1468,
William St. Clair, Prince of Orkney, the founder of Roslin Chapel, granted
him charter of the Cairnhill lands to be holden in blench for one penny, one
of the witnesses to this charter being Sir John Penicuik of that Ilk,
Knight. The property finally passed from the possession of the Crechtons to
one John Medilinast of Grestar, and Was purchased from the latter owner by
John Williamson, burgess of Edinburgh. He sold it in July 1585 to Robert Ker,
younger, portioner of Duddingston, who in 1598 parted with it to John
Creichton, merchant burgess of Edinburgh, for 3100 merks. The next purchaser
was William Adamson of Craigcrook, who after holding it for about six months
passed it on to Robert Livingstoun, baker, burgess of Edinburgh. After the
year 1602 the Cairnhill lands came into possession of one Thomas Galloway of
Slipperfield, and continued in his family for many years. They were finally
absorbed into the Penicuik estate, probably in the time of the Prestons.
While thus early alienating the Cairnhill portion of their property, the St.
Clairs continued to hold by Easter and Wester Ravensneuk. The castle was
also constantly occupied by members of that powerful family. The Privy
Council Records contain many allusions to them. For instance, I find that on
6tli September 1591, Oliver Sinclair of Ravensneuk and others became caution
for £'10,000 for Sir William Sinclair of Rosling, that he should answer
before the lain, and Council to such things as should be laid to his charge.
A fortnight afterwards he himself is bound over by the authorities not to
harm John Gibson and others. His relative Sir William becomes his surety
upon this occasion for one thousand pounds. In the year 1601 a family
quarrel had evidently taken place, for one John Fairlie of Comistoun becomes
surety for Sir William Sinclair of Rosling that he will not do bodily harm
to Oliver Sinclair of Ravensneuk. Many instances of this kind could be
quoted, in which the latter gentleman or his successors, along with the
neighbouring lairds, appear either as principal or sureties, all indicating
the turbulent character of the gentry in these troublous times. Tradition
leas it that one of the owners of Ravensneuk was Sir Oliver Sinclair, the
favourite of James V. and the general of his army which sustained so severe
a defeat by the English at Solway Moss, but there is no satisfactory
evidence known to me which can be quoted in proof of this statement. So far
as I can ascertain, the castle and lands were owned by the St. Clairs until
about the middle of the seventeenth century. They then passed into
possession of the owners of the Penicuik barony. The superiority over them
had not however been renounced at the time of sale, for they appear in the
Roslin charters in the year 1699, while forty-six years before that time
mention is made of both Ravensneuk and Cairnhill having been annexed by Dame
Jean Ross, Lady Innes, proprietrix of Penicuik. It would only be after the
resignation by St. Clair of this superiority into the hands of the Crown
that the Icing would grant charter consolidating the superiority in the
person of the new owner, and that this apparent dual interest ceased to he
recorded. It is to be
regretted that so little now remains of the old castle. It is not the
gradual touch of time that has levelled its walls, else, like its neighbours
at Brunstane and Uttershill, it might still have remained in fair
preservation, an object of interest and delight to the antiquary. The stones
of its frowning battlements have, I fear, been found too useful for the
building and repairing of farm dikes in the vicinity,—a levelling process
which has destroyed many other mementoes of feudal times. Fine large
beech-trees growing within its walls now spread their protecting branches
over what remains of the old castle, but it is to be feared that if there be
a local historian in the next century, he may a seek, but seek in vain, for
the ruins of the hone of the St. Clairs. |
