IT would be tolerably
safe to assert that of those who approach Barra, certainly if coming
from the south, nine-tenths look with satisfaction, if not
affection, upon the still waters of Castle Bay, for they have almost
certainly spent several hours in a fashion which makes them more
than thankful for a peaceful harbour and a tranquil sea. Even if
they are going further the worst is over, and the worst—from, say an
hour beyond Tobermory—is an experience compared with which that of
the Bay of Biscay is a mere trifle. Macbrayne facetiously describes
the journey, which may be taken three times a week, as of seven and
a half hours’ duration, 6 a.m. from Oban to 1.30 Castle Bay; but
there are circumstances, such as the condition of one’s
fellow-passengers, the accommodation, the amount of space at
command, which, even when one is the best of sailors, compel
attention to the duration of time, and that is seldom limited to
seven and a half or even nine hours.
The tonnage of the
Flowerdale is 537, and we, personally, have spent some very happy
hours on the brave little boat. We generally had the deck to
ourselves, we asked no questions, we came provided with food, and we
had every confidence in the kindly captain. May he live to rule a
better boat!
There is a
companion-boat, the Staffa, her tonnage is 196, her captain and mate
are alleged to be very skilful seamen, and the boat, built for the
Tagus, but rejected for river traffic, is said to be very strong. I
can well believe it, for, I repeat, her tonnage is 196 and she
crosses the roughest minch on the coast of Scotland.
Perhaps this is all
so much the better for Barra. As the purser of the Dunara Castle
said to us under some such circumstances, “If it were not for these
little disadvantages”—the discomfort of one’s fellow-creatures—“we
should not be the select party we are,” and Barra has quite enough
to endure without the invasion of the tourist.
Though one is
sometimes inclined to feel deficient in gratitude to Macbrayne, his
red ochre funnels represent probably one of the most valuable
innovations in the modem life of the Outer Hebrides. The postage
between the Islands and the mainland seems to us tedious enough, but
in the old days, before the mail-boats were established, the
connexion was incredibly difficult. The Agricultural Survey of 1811
calculates, (p. 519) that for Clanranald to communicate between his
two estates in South Uist and in Arisaig (on the opposite coast of
the mainland), and to get a reply, would occupy between two and
three months, after a journey (via Edinburgh, Aberdeen, and
Inverness) of 1,444 miles, of which 200 would be over troublesome
and dangerous fords and ferries.
If only Macbrayne
would put large boats on to such crossings as from Mull to Barra,
Skye to Lewis, Tobermory to Tyree, instead of keeping them all for
inland lochs, and, even more, if he would give us deck-chairs in
place of impossibly high and uncomfortable camp-stools, and a few
“garden-seats” with sloping backs instead of the rigid benches at
present in favour, one could forgive him other and perhaps more
serious offences against one’s comfort; but to have one’s feet
hanging in mid-air, and one’s back unsupported, or forced forward,
as the case may be, are serious aggravations of the wet and the
cold, the driving wind, the pitching deck; with the sight of the
misery of one’s fellow-travellers, in an unventilated, evil-smelling
saloon, for sole alternative.
None of the Islands
has an approach half so picturesque as that of Castle Bay, nor such
an air, fictitious though it be, of prosperity and well-being. The
prosperity, far more real, of North Uist, has an air of being
ashamed of itself, that of Lewis of being merely temporary, and for
commercial purposes. But poor little Barra puts her best foot
foremost, and brings down all she possesses to the sea-shore, to
welcome the stranger.
The bay is almost
circular, the opening somewhat narrow, and the first thing that
strikes one’s eye is the quaint little Castle of Kisimul, the old
stronghold of the Macneills, sitting firmly on a tight little island
which just holds it, with not an inch to spare. The Castle is said
to be six hundred years old, the fort is hexagonal in form, the
walls nearly thirty feet high. There is a high square tower in one
angle, which tradition says was always occupied by a watchman who
let fall a heavy stone on to the head of any one attempting to
surprise the gate. There is a local story that he used to repeat
rhymes to keep himself awake. Except by water, it is of course
entirely inaccessible, and a more interesting example of its kind
could hardly be found.
The Macneills of
Barra, as every one knows, “had a boat of their ain at the Flood.”
It is said that there were thirty-three Roderick Macneills in
succession before we come to the first one known to have possessed a
charter, one Gilieonan, son of Roderick, grandson of Murdoch, who
flourished somewhere about 1427.
They were the
possessors, according to an ancient description, not only of Barra
and various smaller islands, but also of “all and sundry other
castles, fortalices, manor places, fishings, tofts, crofts, muirs,
marshes, islands, lochs, pasturages, pendicles, annexes, connexes,
and pertinents, whatsomever, pertaining to the said Isle of Barray,
remanent isles above specified, or possessed by the said Macneill,
all lying within the Sheriffdom of Inverness, and now united,
annexed, and incorporated in ane heil and free barony, called the
baron of Barray.”
One cannot wonder,
after all this, that it was necessary, for the encouragement of his
lieges, that a herald should daily proclaim from the roof of Kisimul
Castle that the great Chief having dined, the people of the island
were now at liberty to refresh themselves. One cause of their
extreme dignity lay in the fact that they held their lands direct
from the Crown without any overlord. But unhappily, in the reign of
James VI., they fell upon evil days. It happened that the Chief of
the period, a Rory of course, known, moreover, as “Rory the
turbulent” (Ruary ’n’ tarter) seized an English ship which was
passing along the coast. Queen Elizabeth complained to the King, and
Rory was summoned to Edinburgh to answer for his conduct, an order
with which he characteristically refused to comply. Mackenzie, known
as “the Tutor” of Kintail, thought it a good opportunity for
ingratiating himself at Court, and effected by treachery what bettor
authorized methods had failed to achieve.
He went off in
whatever kind of boat answered to the yacht of the period, called at
Kisimul, and invited Macneill and his retainers to dine on board.
Having made them all drunk, he put the inferior persons on shore,
and carried off the Chief to Edinburgh. The prisoner was tried, and
pleaded guilty to an offence which he alleged was fully justified,
as an attempt at retaliation for Elizabeth’s conduct to his King,
and still more to the unhappy Mary, his King’s mother. The excuse
was accepted, and his life spared, but the lords of Barra were
thenceforth placed under the superiority of Kintail, i.e. in the
humiliating position of holding their lands from a fellow-chief
instead of from the Crown.
Among various stories
of Macneill’s humiliation under this hated yoke, is, that on one
occasion Lord Macdonald was seen approaching the island at a period
of great destitution. Macneill was unable either to leave the island
or to give him proper entertainment, and his Highland pride could
not stand having to make confession of not being in a position to
show hospitality. He accordingly got into a creel and ordered a
fisherman to carry him away from Kisimul on his back. As ill luck
would have it, they met Macdonald, who entered into conversation
with the fisherman, whose creel being portentously heavy, broke from
the rope, and Macneill fell to the ground. Upon this, Lord Macdonald
who seems, like others of his period, to have been ready, like Silas
Wegg, to “drop into poetry,” thus expressed himself in Gaelic verse
:
It is opportune for me to the going
From Scanty Barra which is not abundant;
From the shells I'll gather
That the clan Macneill are in need.
They call Macneill a “lord,”
And the smallest of birds a “bird,”
They call the grouse’s nest “a nest,”
And a “ nest ” too is that of the smallest birdling;
But small, small is my blessing on the withe
That allowed his mouth to lie under the creel.
The superiority of
the laird of Kintail subsequently passed by marriage to the
Macdonalds of Sleat, the representatives of the Lords of the Isles,
who had died out in the reign of James V. The Kings of Scotland
always favoured division of power, and there were many shoots from
the main trunk, including seven Macdonalds, as well as seven of
other patronymics. The superiority of Barra, the value of which is
variously reported as from a shilling to some forty pounds Scots,
still forms part, it is alleged, of the Macdonald estates, and one
rejoices that, however remotely, the island should still be
connected with one of the old families.
It is sad, however,
that another and less creditable consequence was that, in the *45,
the Chief was prevented by his Superior from joining the Stuart
cause. He made no secret of his sympathies, and was for a time
confined in London. Looked at from another point of view, Sir
Alexander Macdonald's conduct was somewhat to his credit, as in the
event of Macneill’s forfeiture of his estate he, as Superior, would
have reaped advantage of the kind by which the Campbells have so
often profited.
Like the Clanranalds
in Uist, the Macneills were ruined by the failure of the kelp
industry, and the island passed into the hands of Colonel Gordon
somewhere about 1838.
General Macneill, a
brave soldier, survived till 1803, gratefully remembered by his
bereaved islanders. Mr. Fraser Macintosh, M.P., tells a pathetic
story of one of his own Highland constituents who visited him in
London, “chiefly that he might with his own eyes see the house where
General Macneill had lived and died.” The family of Barra is still
represented by a Rory, an exile, alas! living in Prince Edward
Island, a great-grandson of another Rory, Roderick of Brevaig, who
emigrated from Barra in 1802.
There seems little
doubt that the Macneills made a gallant fight for their island home;
it was no case of dying out by slow decay, as among the Clanranalds
of Uist. Even as late as 1794, we read, in the Old Statistical
Account, of great improvement in agriculture within the last five
years, “when Mr. Macneill, returned from visiting foreign countries,
has begun to introduce the method used in the low country as far as
he thinks the soil and climate can admit.”
The crofts seem to
have been small, not more than from £3 to £4, but with the help of
the common-land most were able to keep three horses, four cows, and
eight or ten sheep.
“The tenants,” we
learn, “pay their rents by kelp-making, the proprietor paying them,
if on their own farm, £2 12s. 6d. a ton, if on his, from £1 10s. to
£2 2s. . . . The people live very easy, excepting in bad years, when
there is a scarcity of bread.” Under these circumstances, we read,
“the proprietor supplies the country with low country meal at the
market price.”
Things are now very
different. Though, in this present year, 1901, the proprietor has
been compelled to hand over 3,000 acres (till now part of a single
farm which covers one-third of the island) for the use of the
crofters and fishermen, very much remains to be done.
At the head of the
bay is a very good pier, perhaps the best in the Islands, while all
around, a number of miniature piers, each accompanied by a little
iron or wooden hut, jut out a score or so of feet from the land,
revealing, to the initiated, the fact that Barra is one of the
largest fish-curing stations on the west coast of Scotland.
Surrounding the bay are some half-dozen good and well-placed
buildings—the Roman Catholic Church, the best in the islands, the
Presbyterian Church, a few neat slate-roofed houses belonging to
successful tradesmen, and the little hotel, erected, I believe, for
the accommodation of the fish-curers, who come in great numbers in
June and July, but which is also used by occasional visitors,
sometimes artists. Behind, rises a hill 1,260 feet high, which seems
to occupy the middle of the island, like, to use a homely simile, a
pudding in a dish, the dish being represented by a tract of almost
level land varying in width and stretching away from the mountain to
the sea. The hill rises abruptly behind the village of Castle Bay,
grey and bare like all the higher ground in the Hebrides, and so
intersected with rocks, that the people tell you that you may climb
up without stepping on the rock, and down again without stepping on
the grass.
The island lies
north-east and south-west, and measures about eight miles by four,
or for part of its length, two. A good road surrounds the mountain,
bearing‘witness to the fact of long-established traffic between the
two extremities of the island. This probably is partly because, when
the old Castle of Kisimul became uninhabitable, the Macneills
removed, what one may call the seat of government, to Eoligarry,
where they built a substantial house, though from the presence of
remains of a much older civilization, as well as because the soil at
that end of the island is more productive than elsewhere, one may
conclude that the north and south shores of Barra have always been
in active relation with each other, the one as the agricultural, the
other as the fishing settlement. Moreover, in the prosperous days of
kelp-making, there was a factory towards the north end, which may
partly account for the quality of the road.
On leaving Castle Bay
all signs of prosperity are at an end, and not even in South Uist
are the houses more wretched or the scraps of cultivated ground more
pitiable. In one little gully on the east side an attempt has been
made at tree-planting, mainly of elders, birches, and pines, with
such fair success that one wonders it has not been carried further.
The coarser trees have provided shelter for those of more value, and
though none have gained any height beyond the dignity of bushes,
owing to the severity of the winds, they are at least a suggestion
of what might be done if some sort of artificial screen could be
provided until they had attained a stronger maturity.
Turning westward from
Castle Bay one comes suddenly, at the turn of the road, upon a
little castle, a very toy in fortifications, standing upon a little
island in a little lake which may be the scene intended in the story
of Saint Clair of the Isles, a once popular novel, in the style of
Miss Porter. A little further is a remarkable specimen of one of the
mysterious Standing-stones of which there are so many in the
islands, and of which it is so difficult to guess the original
purpose, whether memorials, landmarks, or the site of worship, and,
if so, to what kind of worship they have belonged.
One natural feature
of the Island of Barra, which is of special interest, is Cockle Bay,
a shimmering expanse, almost snow-white and consisting entirely of
cockle shells, empty or full, and of the dust and fragments of a
great cockle population, probably of thousands of years’ duration. I
do not know whether such a vast nursery of shell-fish is to be found
elsewhere. It seems to have considerably astonished Mr. Donald
Munro, High Dean of the Isles, who, as the title-page of his
“Description” tells us, “travelled through the most of them in the
year 1594.” His ingenious theory deserves quotation:
“In the north end of
this ile of Barray there is ane round heigh know, mayne grasse and
greine round about it to the heid, on the top of quhilk ther is ane
spring and fresh water well. This well treuly springs up certaine
little round quhyte things, less nor the quantity of ane confeit
corne, lykest to the shape and figure of ane little cokill, as it
appearit to me. Out of this well runs ther ane little strype
downwith to the sea, and quher it enters into the sea ther is ane
myle braid of sands quhilk ebbs ane myle callit the Trayr-more of
Killbaray that is the grate sandes of Barray. This sand is all full
of grate cokills and alledgit be the ancient countrymen, that the
cokills comes down out of the forsaid hill throughe the said strype
in the first small forme that we have spoken off, and after their
coming to the sandes growes grate cokills alwayes. There is na
fairer and more profitable sands for cokills in all the world.”
This explanation
appears to have been seriously received, for in the Old Statistical
Account (1755) we find a solemn contradiction based upon the two
arguments: (1) that though there are such a hill and such a spring,
the water never reaches the sea, but is absorbed by the sandy soil
on the way; and (2) that “it is allowed by all naturalists that
every animal procreates its own species.”
The cockles, be their
origin what it may, have been a valuable asset of the island, and it
is said have sustained hundreds of families in hard times.
Not far from Cockle
Bay is the burial-ground of Kilbar (the Church of St. Barr) where
are the remains of three chapels, one even smaller than the little
one in Tyree. Many, if not most of these chapels, have the east wall
blank, but one of these has the peculiarity of an east window,
which, however, measuring only 16 inches by inches, can be reckoned
but a very trifling exception!
The island formerly
possessed a wooden image of St. Barr, which was annually produced on
his festival, September 25, and clothed with a linen shirt, probably
the remains of some forgotten ceremonial. Probably Barra was of some
importance in Columban days, and it is said that some of the small
islands belonging to it formed part of the endowment of the diocese
of the Sudreys.
St. Michael’s Day, in
old times the great festival of the Outer Hebrides, coming but four
days later, the Holy-day was often kept up for the greater part of
the week, and there were horse-races on the sands and various forms
of merry-making.
Perhaps an even
greater festival is that of St. Bridget, to whom, I believe, the
Roman Catholic Church in Barra, is dedicated. The Church stands on
the east side of the harbour, and is a handsome little building,
well fitted and well kept, and the parish priest is Dean of the
Isles, so that it is quite an important religious centre. There is a
second Chapel and a priest at the west side of the island. It is on
St. Bride’s Day that people meet outside the Church, and, by a very
old custom, ballot for the position of the boats for the coming
fishing season, after which again the skipper of each boat draws
lots for his crew, he himself having made his arrangements with some
fish-curer who lets him have a boat and a bounty for the men, while
he, in return, undertakes to let the curer have all the herring
taken by the boat’s crew during the season. As the price is fixed
beforehand this monopoly often falls hard on the men. They are
driven to it almost of necessity, for, at the end of the winter, the
bounty, often paid on the truck system, i.e. in goods, is very
valuable to the poor who have come to the end of their autumn
earnings, ^and now that the kelp-trade is declining have been almost
unemployed all the winter; moreover, as the herring-fishery is
carried on along the dangerous north and north-west shores of the
Long Island, a special boat, heavier and more costly than anything
they possess, is required.
The details of the
fishing arrangements seem to be in something of a transition stage,
so in attempting to describe them, I speak subject to correction,
conscious that even as I write, the old customs may already be
passing away. I believe, however, that still, after all the business
is completed, the fishermen pass into the little grey Church under
the shadow of which their plans have been discussed, and then a
Service is held, praying for a blessing upon their undertaking, and
concluding with the Gaelic hymn which they and their forefathers
have always associated with this occasion, with its burden of—
Father, Son, and Holy Spirit,
The Three in One be with us always;
On the sea when the flood is about us,
O Mother! Mary be with us!
We were in the island
one year about tho middle or end of August, and I remember one
bright Sunday morning when, looking from the door of our little inn,
we saw an unusual number of persons coming from all directions and
gathering about the walls of the Church which stands, unenclosed, on
the rocky hillside. We passed out into the sunshine, and followed at
a respectful distance. As always in these islands, and, so far as I
know, nowhere else in a Christian country, the men among the
Church-goers were in excess of the women. They were evidently
fishermen, and all, old and young, were clad in their best blue
jerseys or sleeved waistcoats. Among the women the Macneill tartan
was conspicuous. The younger women wore little kerchiefs falling
back from their hair, sometimes held in place by foreign-looking
combs or pins. Their dress Was generally a blouse and skirt, the
lineal successor, differently worn, of the jacket and petticoat of
the elder women who, moreover, wore a shawl which covered head and
shoulders. All were neat, and looked far more picturesque than some
half-dozen who wore hats, generally of a startling variety, imported
from Glasgow. The occasion was obviously a special one, and, as we
soon discovered, was the farewell service for the men going off to
the “loch fishing"—which unfortunately takes off the able-bodied men
just at the time of year when they are most wanted to look after the
crops, thus leaving all the heavier work for the women.
It was a pathetic and
interesting sight. All joined heartily in the Service and in the
hymns of praise to Our Lady Star of the Sea. They listened
attentively to the sermon, in Gaelic of course, which was special to
the occasion, and made reference to the dangers before them, to the
separation from home and friends, to the likelihood that never again
would just that congregation meet together; for even for those who
remained, death was near, and on the sea a thousand dangers were for
ever plotting against the life of man.
And indeed the life
of the fisherman is one of fearful risk, and we heard often of men
dying from cold, and exhaustion, and fatigue, apart even from all
the dangers from wind and wave never absent in those fearful seas.
The chance visitor
who sees the fisherman lying asleep in the sun, and talks
thenceforward, with a show of authority, about the idleness of the
Highlanders, little realizes the likelihood that such a man has been
out all night. Starting early in the afternoon, a crew of perhaps
six, they may have to run twelve or fifteen miles up the coast in
search of the herring. Their skill in discovering the whereabouts of
the fish is like an extra sense. Without waiting for the
phosphorescent shimmer of the water, before even the plunging of the
solan-goose, or the swoop of the gulls have revealed its presence,
they will point to some distant patch of water and tell you “the
fish has come.” There are times when they smell it, long before the
fastidious nose of the landsman is in the least conscious of its
presence; at other times they tell you they feel it in the air.
Much to our regret we
were never out with any boat “on business,” though, with the same
boats in their leisure hours, we were familiar enough. The hold is
broad and open, and the forecastle incredibly small, though it is
all they have for shelter, and cooking, and sleeping, when sleep is
possible. In the absence of personal observation, I borrow
Buchanan’s graphic description of the night’s work (The Hebrid
Isles. Robert Buchanan. Chapter v.):
“One man grips the
helm, another seizes the back rope of the net, a third the skunk or
body, a fourth is placed to see the buoys clear and heave them out,
the rest attend forward, keeping a sharp look-out for other nets,
ready, in case the boat should run too fast, to steady her by
dropping the anchor a few fathoms into the sea. When all the nets
are out, the boat is brought bow on to the nets, the ‘ swing ’ (as
they call the rope attached to the nets) secured to the smack’s
‘bits’ and all hands then lower the mast as quickly as possible. The
mast lowered, secured, and made all clear for hoisting at a moment's
notice, and the candle lantern set up in the iron stand made for the
purpose of holding it, the crew leave one look-out on deck, and turn
in below for a nap in their clothes . . . daybreaks, and every man
is on deck. All hands are busy at work taking the nets in over the
bow, two supporting the body, the rest hauling the back rope, save
one, who draws the net into the hold, and another who arranges it
from side to side in the hold to keep the vessel even. Tweet! Tweet!
that thin cheeping sound, resembling the razor-like call of the bat,
is made by the dying herrings at the bottom of the boat. The sea to
leeward, the smack’s hold, the hands and arms of the men are
gleaming like silver. As many of the fish as possible are shaken
loose during the process of hauling in, but the rest are left in the
net until the smack gets to shore. Three or four hours pass away in
this wet and tiresome work. At last, however, the nets are all drawn
in, the mast is hoisted, the sail set. . . . Everywhere on the
water, see the fishing-boats making for the same bourne, blessing
their luck or cursing their misfortune, just as the events of the
night may have been. All sail is set if possible, and it is a wild
race to the market. Even when the anchorage is reached, the work is
not quite finished ; for the fish has to be measured out in cran2
baskets and delivered at the curing-station. By the time that the
crew have got their morning dram, have arranged their nets snugly in
the stern, and have had some herrings for dinner, it is time to be
off again to the harvest-field.”
Everywhere, and in
Barra especially, we were told that tho fishing was not nearly so
profitable as it used to be. In the present year (1901), though it
seemed to us that the harbours both of Castle Bay and Stornoway were
crowded with masts, both local and foreign—of which more
elsewhere—we were told that hundreds had gone away, for the fish was
very scarce.
In Barra, in the old
days, at the end of the eighteenth century (Old Statistical
Account), the average take during the spring-fishing (end of March
to end of June) was 1,000 to 1,500 ling to each boat, and the twenty
or thirty boats which then represented the great fleet of the
present time would take, “one year with another, 30,000 ling besides
cod. . . . They carry their fish to Glasgow in the very boats they
use at the fishing, where the ling sell from £5 to £6 the hundred.
Herring has often been got here in great abundance, but the want of
salt has sometimes prevented the inhabitants from deriving any
considerable advantage from it.” That must, of course, have been
before the establishment of organized curing-stations. The
fish-curers of the present day seldom belong to the island: they
come not only from the east coast of Scotland, but from Grimsby and
Yarmouth, from Holland and Germany, and even from Russia.
In old days the
dogfish and the cuddy had a value for their oil, which sold at
sevenpence or eightpence the Scotch pint, and often sufficed to pay
the rent. Oil, too, was taken from the seath or coalfish (in Gaelic
piocach), and also from the seal.
Even in the good old
days, however, it does not seem as if there had ever been an
exclusively fishing population. It is quite in vain to contrast the
fisherman of the Hebrides with his brother of the east coast, whose
hunting-ground is very different.
The fact is obvious
enough to any observer not a proprietor, but—always with the desire
of excluding mere personal prejudice—I again quote from the
often-quoted Report on the Crofters' Commission :
“On this island no
fisherman can live from the produce of the sea alone, owing to the
tempestuous nature of the coast, and the want of a ready transit to
the markets. Those, then, who follow the profession of fisherman
should have as much land as would keep two cows, and those who live
by the land alone should have their present holdings greatly
enlarged and rented according to the value of the soil. . . . The
cause of the prevailing poverty is easily arrived at: it is the want
of land. The land is particularly hilly and rocky, yet there is
enough of good land if it were divided among the people.”
The evidence goes on
to show that the better half is held by large farmers, as has
already been stated.
The people, here and
elsewhere, were moved from their native glens in the expectation
that they would at once become fishermen, and that, irrespective of
any consideration as to the skill and knowledge they possessed, or
even whether, as was very unlikely, they had boats suitable for the
purpose, for the inshore fishing is precarious in the extreme, even
if there were any possibility of fresh fish reaching the market. Mr.
Fraser Mackintosh entertained great hope that the opening of the
railway to Mallaig, this year accomplished, might have good results
in this direction ; but carriage by railway has not always shown
itself beneficial to the home-market, and one must not be too
sanguine. Moreover, there is not at present any direct communication
between Barra and Mallaig, so that any advantage as to markets is
more likely to fall to the northern end of the Long Island.
Even if the whole
22,000 acres of Barra were divided among the people they would not
have more than seems really needful to supply such necessaries of
life as they enjoyed under the former proprietors.
“It is doubtful,” the
Report of the Crofters Commission admits, “whether it is of any use
to give holdings to fishermen without land. The west coast crofters
are not historically a seafaring people. While in many cases both
good boatmen and daring sailors, they cannot be persuaded to trust
entirely to the sea for a living.”
Just as one
associates the kelp industry with Tyree, and the land troubles with
South Uist, so in Barra one’s attention is inevitably called, before
all else, to the fishing industry.
The grievances of the
Barra fisherman, apart altogether from his grievances as a crofter,
seem especially hard when one realizes that now the kelp industry is
decaying and his position as a crofter is almost untenable, the
fishing is all he has to look to. As we shall see in another
chapter, even Nature and the fluctuations of commerce have treated
him hardly; but such conditions are the almost inevitable
consequence of our civilization. His worst difficulties are such as
ought never to exist. They have been stated on various public
occasions and before Parliament, but redress is slow. Under an Act
of 1770-1, known as the White Fisheries Act, the land, or rather
rocky waste within 100 yards of the highest high-water mark, is free
to fishermen for drying their nets. For such land, already included
in ground for which crofters are paying rent, it was stated in
evidence at a meeting of 1,000 fishermen belonging both to Barra and
the east coast, a second rent was being charged, often to the same
men in their capacity of fishermen ; i.e. for six weeks’ use of
their own rocks for drying nets, a rent of 1s. 6d. to 10s. is
exacted per boat, while a third and similar rent is also taken from
the alien fishermen for the same purpose.
The crofters, who
were very friendly with tho east-coast fishermen, and anxious to
oblige them, would have done so to the utmost of their power, but
naturally considered that the profit, if indeed any profit at all
were legal, should go into their own pocket. One east-coast witness,
from Lossiemouth, said that “speaking for about 2,000 fishermen they
would not object to pay £1 per boat for good land to dry their nets
on, but they refused to pay 7s. 6d. per boat for what was called net
land, 75 per cent, of which was bare rock within 100 yards of the
sea-shore.”
Another grievance is
connected with the Barra system of private curing-stations—the
little piers, with huts adjoining, which have been already referred
to. It was stated that for forty-six such stations put up entirely
by the curers themselves, at a cost varying from £200 to £1,000, on
patches of bare rock close by the sea, totally worthless for any
purpose, they were paying a rental of £410; that when a curer, as
was very probable, became bankrupt or left disheartened, he received
no compensation, but that the whole benefit of their improvements
and expenditure passed to the estate often to be re-let at greatly
increased rent. In one recent case such a station, rented at £7,
was, on the death of the man who built and maintained it, re-let for
£30, with an assurance that the rent would be subsequently raised to
£60.
The whole question of
the Fisheries is now before Parliament, and such facts being made
public must —in a civilized and Christian country—ultimately receive
attention, though there are no doubt many complexities which will
require time to adjust. |