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I HAD long been looking from
the wild woods and gardens of the Northern States to those of the warm
South, and at last, all drawbacks overcome, I set forth [from Indianapolis]
on the first day of September, 1867, joyful and free, on a thousand-mile
walk to the Gulf of Mexico. [The trip to Jeffersonville, on the banks of the
Ohio, was made by rail.] Crossing the Ohio at Louisville [September 2], I
steered through the big city by compass without speaking a word to any one.
Beyond the city I found a road running southward, and after passing a
scatterment of suburban cabins and cottages I reached the green woods and
spread out my pocket map to rough-hew a plan for my journey.
My plan was simply to push on
in a general southward direction by the wildest, leafiest, and least trodden
way I could find, promising the greatest extent of virgin forest. Folding my
map, I shouldered my little bag and plant press and strode away among the
old Kentucky oaks, rejoicing in splendid visions of pines and palms and
tropic flowers in glorious array, not, however, without a few cold shadows
of loneliness, although the great oaks seemed to spread their arms in
welcome. I have seen
oaks of many species in many kinds of exposure and soil, but those of
Kentucky excel in grandeur all I had ever before beheld. They are broad and
dense and bright green. In the leafy bowers and caves of their long branches
dwell magnificent avenues of shade, and every tree seems to be blessed with
a double portion of strong exulting life. Walked twenty miles, mostly on
river bottom, and found shelter in a rickety tavern.
September 3. Escaped from the dust and squalor
of my garret bedroom to the glorious forest. All the streams that I tasted
hereabouts are salty and so are the wells. Salt River was nearly dry. Much
of my way this forenoon was over naked limestone. After passing the level
ground that extended twenty-five or thirty miles from the river I came to a
region of rolling hills called Kentucky Knobs -- hills of denudation,
covered with trees to the top. Some of them have a few pines. For a few
hours I followed the farmers' paths, but soon wandered away from roads and
encountered many a tribe of twisted vines difficult to pass.
Emerging about noon from a grove of giant
sunflowers, I found myself on the brink of a tumbling rocky stream [Rolling
Fork]. I did not expect to find bridges on my wild ways, and at once started
to ford, when a negro woman on the opposite bank earnestly called on me to
wait until she could tell the "men folks" to bring me a horse — that the
river was too deep and rapid to wade and that I would "sartain be drowned"
if I attempted to cross. I replied that my bag and plants would ballast me;
that the water did not appear to be deep, and that if I were carried away I
was a good swimmer and would soon dry in the sunshine. But the cautious old
soul replied that no one ever waded that river and set off for a horse,
saying that it was no trouble at all.
In a few minutes the ferry horse came gingerly
down the bank through vines and weeds. His long stilt legs proved him a
natural wader. He was white, and the little sable negro boy that rode him
looked like a bug on his back. After many a tottering halt the outward
voyage was safely made and I mounted behind little Nig. He was a queer
specimen, puffy and jet as an India rubber doll and his hair was matted in
sections like the wool of a merino sheep. The old horse, overladen with his
black and white burden, rocked and stumbled on his stilt legs with fair
promises of a fall. But all ducking signs failed and we arrived in safety
among the weeds and vines of the rugged bank. A salt bath would have done us
no harm. I could swim and little Afric looked as if he might float like a
bladder. I called at
the homestead where my ferryman informed me I would find "tollable" water.
But, like all the water of this section that I have tasted, it was
intolerable with salt. Everything about this old Kentucky home bespoke
plenty, unpolished and unmeasured. The house was built in true Southern
style, airy, large, and with a transverse central hall that looks like a
railway tunnel, and heavy rough outside chimneys. The negro quarters and
other buildings are enough in number for a village, altogether an
interesting representative of a genuine old Kentucky home, embosomed in
orchards, corn fields and green wooded hills.
Passed gangs of woodmen engaged in felling and
hewing the grand oaks for market. Fruit very abundant. Magnificent flowing
hill scenery all afternoon. Walked southeast from Elizabethtown till wearied
and lay down in the bushes by guess.
September 4. The sun was gilding the hill-tops
when I was awakened by the alarm notes of birds whose dwelling in a hazel
thicket I had disturbed. They flitted excitedly close to my head, as if
scolding or asking angry questions, while several beautiful plants,
strangers to me, were looking me full in the face. The first botanical
discovery in bed! This was one of the most delightful camp grounds, though
groped for in the dark, and I lingered about it enjoying its trees and soft
lights and music.
Walked ten miles of forest. Met a strange oak with willow-looking leaves.
Entered a sandy stretch of black oak called "Barrens," many of which were
sixty or seventy feet in height, and are said to have grown since the fires
were kept off, forty years ago. The farmers hereabouts are tall, stout,
happy fellows, fond of guns and horses. Enjoyed friendly chats with them.
Arrived at dark in a village that seemed to be drawing its last breath. Was
guided to the "tavern" by a negro who was extremely accommodating. "No
trouble at all," he said.
September 5. No bird or flower or friendly tree
above me this morning; only squalid garret rubbish and dust. Escaped to the
woods. Came to the region of caves. At the mouth of the first I discovered I
was surprised to find ferns which belonged to the coolest nooks of Wisconsin
and northward, but soon observed that each cave rim has a zone of climate
peculiar to itself, and it is always cool. This cave had an opening about
ten feet in diameter, and twenty-five feet perpendicular depth. A strong
cold wind issued from it and I could hear the sounds of running water. A
long pole was set against its walls as if intended for a ladder, but in some
places it was slippery and smooth as a mast and would test the climbing
powers of a monkey. The walls and rim of this natural reservoir were finely
carved and flowered. Bushes leaned over it with shading leaves and beautiful
ferns and mosses were in rows and sheets on its slopes and shelves. Lingered
here a long happy while, pressing specimens and printing this beauty into
memory. Arrived about
noon at Munfordville; was soon discovered and examined by Mr. Munford
himself, a pioneer and father of the village. He is a surveyor --- has held
all country offices, and every seeker of roads and lands applies to him for
information. He regards all the villagers as his children, and all strangers
who enter Munfordville as his own visitors. Of course he inquired my
business, destination, etc., and invited me to his house.
After refreshing me with "parrs" he complacently
covered the table with bits of rocks, plants, etc., things new and old which
he had gathered in his surveying walks and supposed to be full of scientific
interest. He informed me that all scientific men applied to him for
information, and as I was a botanist, he either possessed, or ought to
possess, the knowledge I was seeking, and so I received long lessons
concerning roots and herbs for every mortal ill. Thanking my benefactor for
his kindness, I escaped to the fields and followed a railroad along the base
of a grand hill ridge. As evening came on all the dwellings I found seemed
to repel me, and I could not muster courage enough to ask entertainment at
any of them. Took refuge in a log schoolhouse that stood on a hillside
beneath stately oaks and slept on the softest looking of the benches.
September 6. Started at the earliest bird song
in hopes of seeing the great Mammoth Cave before evening. Overtook an old
negro driving an ox team. Rode with him a few miles and had some interesting
chat concerning war, wild fruits of the woods, etc. "Right heah," said he,
"is where the Rebs was a-tearin' up the track, and they all a sudden thought
they seed the Yankees a-comin', obah dem big hills dar, and Lo'd, how dey
run." I asked him if he would like a renewal of these sad war times, when
his flexible face suddenly calmed, and he said with intense earnestness,
"Oh, Lo'd, want no mo wa, Lo'd no." Many of these Kentucky negroes are
shrewd and intelligent, and when warmed upon a subject that interests them,
are eloquent in no mean degree.
Arrived at Horse Cave, about ten miles from the
great cave. 'The entrance is by a long easy slope of several hundred yards.
It seems like a noble gateway to the birthplace of springs and fountains and
the dark treasuries of the mineral kingdom. This cave is in a village [of
the same name] which it supplies with an abundance of cold water, and cold
air that issues from its fern-clad lips. In hot weather crowds of people sit
about it in the shade of the trees that guard it. This magnificent fan is
capable of cooling everybody in the town at once.
Those who live near lofty mountains may climb to
cool weather in a day or two, but the overheated Kentuckians can find a
patch of cool climate in almost every glen in the State. The villager who
accompanied me said that Horse Cave had never been fully explored, but that
it was several miles in length at least. He told me that he had never been
at Mammoth Cave - that it was not worth going ten miles to see, as it was
nothing but a hole in the ground, and I found that his was no rare case. He
was one of the useful, practical men — too wise to waste precious time with
weeds, caves, fossils, or anything else that he could not eat.
Arrived at the great Mammoth Cave. I was
surprised to find it in so complete naturalness. A large hotel with fine
walks and gardens is near it. But fortunately the cave has been unimproved,
and were it not for the narrow trail that leads down the glen to its door,
one would not know that it had been visited. There are house-rooms and halls
whose entrances give but slight hint of their grandeur. And so also this
magnificent hall in the mineral kingdom of Kentucky has a door comparatively
small and unpromising. One might pass within a few yards of it without
noticing it. A strong cool breeze issues constantly from it, creating a
northern climate for the ferns that adorn its rocky front.
I never before saw Nature's grandeur in so
abrupt contrast with paltry artificial gardens. The fashionable hotel
grounds are in exact parlor taste, with many a beautiful plant cultivated to
deformity, and arranged in strict geometrical beds, the whole pretty affair
a laborious failure side by side with Divine beauty. The trees around the
mouth of the cave are smooth and tall and bent forward at the bottom, then
straight upwards. Only a butternut seems, by its angular knotty branches, to
sympathize with and belong to the cave, with a fine growth of Cystopteris
and Hypnum. Started for
Glasgow Junction. Got belated in the hill woods. Inquired my way at a
farmhouse and was invited to stay overnight in a rare, hearty, hospitable
manner. Engaged in familiar running talk on politics, war times and
theology. The old Kentuckian seemed to take a liking to me and advised me to
stay in these hills until next spring, assuring me that I would find much to
interest me in and about the Great Cave; also, that he was one of the school
officials and was sure that I could obtain their school for the winter term.
I sincerely thanked him for his kind plans, but pursued my own.
September 7. Left the hospitable Kentuckians
with their sincere good wishes and bore away southward again through the
deep green woods. In noble forests all day. Saw mistletoe for the first
time. Part of the day I traveled with a Kentuckian from near Burkesville. He
spoke to all the negroes he met with familiar kindly greetings, addressing
them always as "Uncles" and "Aunts." All travelers one meets on these roads,
white and black, male and female, travel on horseback. Glasgow is one of the
few Southern towns that shows ordinary American life. Night with a
well-to-do farmer.
September 8. Deep, green, bossy sea of waving, flowing hilltops. Corn and
cotton and tobacco fields scattered here and there. I had imagined that a
cotton field in flower was something magnificent. But cotton is a coarse,
rough, straggling, unhappy looking plant, not half as good-looking as a
field of Irish potatoes.
Met a great many negroes going to meeting,
dressed in their Sunday best. Fat, happy looking and contented. The scenery
on approaching the Cumberland River becomes still grander. Burkesville, in
beautiful location, is embosomed in a glorious array of verdant flowing
hills. The Cumberland must be a happy stream. I think I could enjoy
traveling with it in the midst of such beauty all my life. This evening I
could find none willing to take me in, and so lay down on a hillside and
fell asleep muttering praises to the happy abounding beauty of Kentucky.
September 9. Another day in the most favored
province of bird and flower. Many rapid streams, flowing in beautiful
flower-bordered canons embosomed in dense woods. Am seated on a grand
hill-slope that leans back against the sky like a picture. Amid the wide
waves of green wood there are spots of autumnal yellow and the atmosphere,
too, has the dawnings of autumn in colors and sounds. The soft light of
morning falls upon ripening forests of oak and elm, walnut and hickory, and
all Nature is thoughtful and calm. Kentucky is the greenest, leafiest State
I have yet seen. The sea of soft temperate plant-green is deepest here.
Comparing volumes of vegetable verdure in
different countries to a wedge, the thick end would be in the forests of
Kentucky, the other in the lichens and mosses of the North. This verdure
wedge would not be perfect in its lines. From Kentucky it would maintain its
thickness long and well in passing the level forests of Indiana and Canada.
From the maples and pines of Canada it would slope rapidly to the bleak
Arctic hills with dwarf birches and alders; thence it would thin out in a
long edge among hardy lichens and liverworts and mosses to the
dwelling-places of everlasting frost. Far the grandest of all Kentucky
plants are her noble oaks. They are the master existences of her exuberant
forests. Here is the Eden, the paradise of oaks. Passed the Kentucky line
towards evening and obtained food and shelter from a thrifty Tennessee
farmer, after he had made use of all the ordinary anti-hospitable arguments
of cautious comfortable families.
September 10. Escaped from a heap of uncordial
kindness to the generous bosom of the woods. After a few miles of level
ground in luxuriant tangles of brooding vines, I began the ascent of the
Cumberland Mountains, the first real mountains that my foot ever touched or
eyes beheld. The ascent was by a nearly regular zigzag slope, mostly covered
up like a tunnel by overarching oaks. But there were a few openings where
the glorious forest road of Kentucky was grandly seen, stretching over hill
and valley, adjusted to every slope and curve by the hands of Nature — the
most sublime and comprehensive picture that ever entered my eyes. Reached
the summit in six or seven hours — a strangely long period of up-grade work
to one accustomed only to the hillocky levels of Wisconsin and adjacent
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