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ON Tuesday the 13th of September, the morning was
beautiful. At half-past nine o’clock, the Queen and Prince Albert,
with their suite, took their departure from Drummond Castle, the
Guard of Honour of the 42d regiment, and the Drummond Guard,
saluting Her Majesty as they did on her arrival. Lord Willoughby de
Eresby and the Master of Strathallan attended the royal carriage as
far as Ardoch on horseback. The Queen’s travelling dress was of the
Royal Stuart tartan, with two deep flounces. She wore a white
transparent cottage bonnet, with a blonde veil and small white
feathers, and a cashmere shawl of a scarlet ground, with gold-coloured
palms, of remarkable beauty and fineness of texture. The Prince was
dressed in a plain blue surtout, black hat, and checked trowsers.
The Queen took the way to the village of Muthil, where a triumphal
arch had been prepared, and as Her Majesty drove slowly through the
place, the loyal curiosity of the multitude was completely
gratified, and she was received with enthusiastic cheering. At about
a mile from this village the road to Stirling leaves the valley of
the Erne, and here at the gate of Culdees, and nearly on the
confines of Lord Viscount Strathallan’s property, there was an
elegant triumphal arch, constructed of heather, and having a
red-deer and roebuck on either side. Beside the arch was a rustic
bower, in which Lady Strathallan, although in very delicate health,
was waiting with her family, to offer their homage. The Queen was
here gratified with a scene calculated to recall home recollections.
The two grandchildren of Lord and Lady Strathallan were held up to
the Boyal carriage, and presented Her Majesty with bouquets of the
choicest flowers. The Queen seemed greatly moved, and, her thoughts
probably turning to Windsor, she kissed the lovely infants wbth
great tenderness. The triumphal arch bore this touching
leg-end:—“Adieu, fair daughter of Stratherne!” in allusion to the
second title of Her Majesty’s lamented father. Culdees is a fine old
place, having a pretty glen, with a lively stream and ancient trees.
Beyond this the country rises, and few objects of interest present
themselves till the road passes, on the left, the gate and lodge of
Orchill, belonging to Mr. Gillespie Graham. Immediately opposite to
it, are the remains of one of the small Roman outposts, belonging to
the great camp at Ardoch, in very perfect preservation. A Homan
banner was here displayed in most appropriate taste, and the
proprietor and his family were stationed before the gate to pay
their compliments to the Queen, which she graciously acknowledged.
The Royal attention was next directed to the camp at Ardoch, to the
left of the road, the most complete and entire specimen of Roman
fortification in Scotland, or perhaps in Great Britain. Its
situation is remarkably well chosen, having on its south-eastern
side a deep morass of great extent. On the west it is partly
defended by the steep banks of the water of Ivnaick, about forty or
fifty feet in perpendicular height, so that one ditch only remains
visible here, though it is not improbable that there may have been
more originally. As the north-eastern side is the most exposed, it
is guarded by five rows of ditches, still perfect, and running
parallel to one another. On the north side are the same number of
lines and ditches; and three or four of these artificial defences
are still to be traced on the southern side, though very much
obliterated. The four entrances, crossing the lines at right angles,
are most distinct. The area is of an oblong form, 140 yards by 125,
within the innermost lines. The prmtorium is a regular square,
rising above the level of the camp, but not placed in the centre ;
it measures exactly twenty yards on each side. This great work is
supposed to have owed its creation to Agricola, who formed it for
the Roman legions, there being other two large encampments adjoining
it, for the cavalry and auxiliaries, embracing about 130 acres of
ground, so that the whole thus afforded accommodation for all the
forces that fought under that emperor in the great battle near the
Grampians. By the time the Queen approached, the rain was falling
pretty heavily, so that the carriage was closed. Major Moray
Stirling, the proprietor of these interesting remains, had an
archway constructed at the entrance of the camp, covered with
heather and green boughs, and having a banner with the Roman eagle
displayed on each side of it, and a great number of the neighbouring
gentlemen, and tenantry on the estate, had assembled there to greet
Her Majesty. The Royal party arrived about ten o’clock, but the wet
prevented the Queen from quitting the carriage, from which, however,
she enjoyed a very tolerable view of the ancient works, rendered
more intelligible from a plan of them which was handed to her.
Prince Albert got out of the carriage, and walked over the whole
encampment, attended by Major Moray Stirling. The moment he entered
the gate, the Royal standard was hoisted in the camp. He expressed
himself highly gratified with all he saw, and paid the proprietor
some well-merited compliments on the excellent state of preservation
in which he found these interesting remains. The Royal pair were
loudly cheered by a large concourse of people on their arrival and
departure.
The Queen’s route lay down the valley of the Knaick,
having the fine old place and grounds of Ardoch on the left. After
crossing the river Allan, the horses were changed at Greenloaning,
and the Royal carriage swept rapidly on to Dunblane. In her wav
thither the Queen enjoyed a distant view of the old castle of Doune,
built by the Earls of Menteith at a period beyond all record. It was
seized by the crown in the middle of the 15th century, and remained
annexed to it until the year 1502, when it was settled on Margaret,
daughter of Henry VIII. of England, on her marriage with James IV.,
King of Scotland. In 1523, she married as her second husband Henry
Lord Methven, after which she disposed of it to James Stewart, a
younger brother of her husband, ancestor of the noble family of
Moray, in whose hands it now remains.
Dunblane is a small town, prettily situated on the Allan water,
which here becomes very beautiful. The cathedral and the Bishop's
palace are picturesque and interesting ruins. It is worth recording,
that the celebrated Bishop Leighton was consecrated to this See in
1662, and among many other charitable legacies, he left his library
to the cathedral for the behoof of the diocese. The inhabitants of
this ancient place received their Queen with every demonstration of
loyalty. A flag was hoisted on the top of the grey tower of the
cathedral, and its flapping disturbed the colony of daws inhabiting
its more elevated regions, whilst the bells added to their
discomfiture by beginning to ring at an early hour. A very handsome
arch was erected by Mr. Stirling of Kippendavie, on his property at
the entrance to the town, surmounted by a large floral crown, with
“God Save the Queen” beneath it. At the gateway of Holme Hill, the
residence of Miss Murray, there was a tasteful arch, with a crown
and the letters V. A. formed of flowers, with two handsome flags. At
Anchor-field, several Union-Jacks were displayed, and a large
banner, having “God Save the Queen” in gold letters, with the rose,
thistle, and shamrock in the centre. The Glasgow Union Bank Office
was much ornamented with evergreens, flowers, and appropriate
devices, and similar decorations appeared in various other quarters.
A large party of special constables, wearing rosettes of royal
purple, lined the street, and precautions were taken to keep the
road on both sides clear of people. The Queen was received with loud
cheering as she passed through the town. A discharge of rockets from
Holme Hill Castle announced Her Majesty’s approach to the
authorities of Stirlingshire.
Rising the hill from Dunblane, the Queen caught a glimpse of the
house of Kippenross, prettily situated amidst hanging woods on the
left bank of the river ; and she then had on her right the park wall
and grounds of Keir, the splendid residence of Mr. Stirling. Near
this Her Majesty was gratified by the very interesting spectacle of
the whole of the people and children employed in the great Dean-ston
cotton-works, to the number of 1500, most of them with flags and
pennons in their hands, who had been marched hither, and drawn up in
the field on the left of the road, the men on one flank, and the
women on the other, with the word “industry” on their banners, and
their band of music in the centre. As the field is considerably
elevated above the road, they were displayed to great advantage, in
their nice clean dresses and healthy looks. Mr. Stirling of Keir had
a very magnificent arch of evergreens, with the motto, “Farewell to
Perthshire, Scotland’s Queen.” He waited on horseback to receive Her
Majesty at the grand entrance to his residence.
At the border line of the counties the Queen was met by Mr. Murray
of Polmaise, Vice-Lieutenant of Stirlingshire, attended by Mr.
Sheriff Handyside, Sir Michael Bruce of Stenhouse, Bart., Sir
Gilbert Stirling of Larhert, Bart., Sir Henry Stewart Seton, Bart,
of Allanton and Touch, Mr. Forbes of Callander, M.P. for the county,
and Mr. Johnston of Alva, in their lieutenancy uniforms ; Mr.
Maitland, in the Royal Archers’ uniform, and many gentlemen of the
county; and when the Queen’s carriage came up, the whole took their
places, and started off after Her Majesty. The Stirling troop of the
old yeomanry, in plain clothes, turned out under Mr. Smith of
Deanston, and lined the road from Keir onwards, each man falling in
as the carriage passed him, and galloping after it.
On passing the handsome church of Lecropt, the rich plain of
Stirling opens at once, with the Airthrey grounds—the Abbey or
Abbot’s Craig—and, above all, the town of Stirling, with its castle
beetling over the abrupt and romantic cliffs at its western
extremity backed by the distant rising grounds to the southward.
Sweeping down the hill towards the Bridge of Allan, the Queen
enjoyed a beautiful view up the wooded course of that river. There
were three arches here, one at the inn, one at the turnpike gate,
and one at the reading-room, which last had a gilded bee-hive
suspended from it, and a bee with golden body and silver wings, and
this quaint parody on Watt, “How doth our good Queen bee improve
each shining hour.” Soon after passing through this village, the
Queen came upon the property of Lord Abercromby, Lord-Lieutenant of
the county, and son of the gallant Sir Ralph, who died so gloriously
in Egypt. The western entrance to Airthrey Castle, one of the most
beautiful places in Scotland, opens from a large trumpet-mouth
recess, on each side of which a grand triumphal arch was erected by
Lord Abercromby. The first was composed of two living silver firs,
46 feet high, lifted by the roots and planted on the spot, and
cleared of all their branches 18 feet from the ground. Four trees
were lashed around each of their stems so as to make them about six
feet in diameter. Between these a very perfect arch was thrown at 28
feet from the ground, and the whole was surmounted by a crown, and
entirely covered with evergreens, the pillars having a web of red
cloth twisted spirally around each of them. The second arch was made
of trees 38 feet high, and constructed somewhat in the same form as
the other, with this difference, that on it were the letters V. A.,
with a triangular piece of work over the arch, crowned by the Prince
of Wales’ feathers. This arch was richly decorated with flowers, and
had spiral rolls of white cloth round it. In front of the gate,
stood the carriage of the Lord-Lieutenant, —and in it the venerable
Lord Abercromby, who, invalid as he was, and in defiance of all
consequences, had made it a point with his medical attendant that he
should be permitted to go thus far to uncover his grey hairs in
loyal homage to his youthful sovereign. Alas! that much revered head
now reposes in the tomb of his ancestors; but his memory is
imperishably embalmed in the affectionate and grateful remembrance
of the thousands who benefited by his charity and benevolence, and
by that wide circle of friends who partook of his boundless
hospitality. The business of his life was unremittingly to invent
and execute the kindest Christian acts to all mankind. No wonder,
then, that his grave was moistened by the tears of genuine sorrow—or
that the humble writer of this work, who had the happiness of
enjoying his closest friendship, should now require the indulgence
of his readers for thus yielding to the feelings of his heart. The
remains of Lord Abercromby were deposited in the church of Tullibody.
After passing through the Airthrey arches, the Queen was royally
saluted by a small park of guns placed on an eminence within his
Lordship’s grounds, which never ceased firing till Her Majesty
reached the town of Stirling.
On went the Queen and her followers, by the hamlet of Causeway Head,
where her escort was joined by Mr. Tait, Sheriff of Kinross and
Clackmannan. Turning thence directly across the plain, Stirling and
its castle rose grandly before her, like one of the picturesque hill
towns of Italy. In its general features the castle is somewhat like
that of Edinburgh. The sides of the road here were crowded with
carriages and people, and amongst others, Mr. Kinross, the Queen’s
coachmaker, had a machine, decked with flowers and evergreens, which
held above seventy people. The immediate approach to Stirling is by
the new bridge over the river Forth, about an hundred yards below
the very antique structure which formerly yielded the only passage.
The yet more ancient bridge, of the time when Sir William Wallace
defeated the English army of 50,000 men, under Cressingham, in 1297,
was of timber, and stood half a mile farther up, at Kildean. It is
well known that Wallace, feigning to retreat, kept about 10,000 men,
masqued behind the Abbey Craig, until most of the enemy had crossed,
and, having left the main beam of the bridge half sawn through—a
signal was given by the blast of a horn—a wedge was removed, and the
bridge fell. The slaughter of the English was tremendous, and the
victory complete. Happy may we consider ourselves that those days of
cruel contest between the two countries are now at an end, by their
union under the crown which her present Majesty wears. Mr. Wright of
the Broom, now resident in the neighbourhood of Stirling, who claims
to be the lineal descendant of the wright who performed that
singular piece of service for Wallace, was present cheering Victoria
on this occasion.
The merry bells of Stirling had been ringing all day, and as the
Queen’s carriage appeared on the bridge a royal salute was fired
from the Castle, in reply to the proud announcement which the
Airthrey guns had first had the honour of making of Her Majesty’s
approach to this ancient stronghold of her ancestors. Mr. Ramsay of
Barnton, had four thorough-bred bay horses ready at the north end of
the bridge, to be attached to Her Majesty’s carriage, richly
caparisoned with silver-mounted harness, having crimson and silver
rosettes and pad-cloths. Here the Royal vehicle was fully opened,
and by this time the horsemen in attendance had increased to about
two hundred.
The main road runs directly towards the lower end of the town,
whilst another turns off to the right, by Saint Mary’s-wynd, into
the high central part of Broad-street. At the entrance to this road,
a massive and rather elegant triumphal arch had been erected by the
magistrates, composed of heather, evergreens, and boughs of trees,
and resting at either side on neat castellated turrets, under which
were paintings of the Queen and Prince Albert. In the centre were
the Royal arms of Scotland, with the word “Welcome” underneath,—and
above all was a large floral crown, with a flag bearing the arms of
the town. Four neatly dressed boys were stationed on various parts
of the structure, waving small flags, likewise hearing the word
“Welcome.” Underneath the arch was the barrier, and outside of it
were erected two platforms. On that to the right stood Provost
Galbraith, with the Magistrates in court dresses, and the clergy of
all denominations in their gowns and bands, with the burgh
schoolmasters; and that opposite was filled with ladies and
gentlemen. The road beyond the arch was lined by the members of the
guildry, with the Dean at their head, and Mr. Lucas bearing the
standard of this very ancient and respectable body. The Dean wore
the gold chain and medal belonging to his office, and a very old
ring, set with precious stones, originally given to be worn by that
functionary, by the monarch who created them a corporate body. It
bears this inscription—“Yis for ye Deine of ye Geild of Stirling.”
Next to the guildry were stationed the seven incorporated trades,
headed by Mr. William Grant, their deacon-convener. The standard,
composed of blue and crimson silk, and known b} the name of “the
blue blanket,” was borne by James Thomson. It was presented to them
by Mary of Scotland, when confirming a charter granted them by
Alexander III., to be used at their “weapon-schawings,” when called
upon for the defence of their sovereign, and at the same time she
gave a white silk sash, which was that day worn by the convener;
also the curious halberd borne by the deacon of the weavers.
As the Royal carriage approached, the assembled multitude waved
their hats and shawls, and rent the air with their loud
acclamations. On reaching the triumphal arch, the Queen ordered the
postilions to stop, and the Provost advancing towards the carriage,
followed by the Magistrates, made his obeisance, and addressed Her
Majesty as follows :—
“May it please your Most Gracious Majesty,
“As Provost of Stirling, I beg leave to approach your Majesty with
sentiments of the most profound respect, and in the name of the
Magistrates and Town-Council of your Majesty’s Royal Burgh of
Stirling, together with the whole of the inhabitants, to offer our
sincere and heartfelt welcome to this part of your Majesty’s
dominions in Scotland, and to assure your Majesty of our devoted
loyalty and attachment to your royal person and government. We hope
your Majesty has received pleasure and gratification in the short
tour you have made through this part of your hereditary dominions of
Scotland, and that at no very distant period you will be graciously
pleased again to visit this country, and favour your Scottish
subjects with another opportunity of testifying their attachment and
veneration to your Majesty’s royal person and government. We
sincerely pray that the Almighty may long spare your precious life
to reign and rule over this great nation.” The Chamberlain then
advanced with the silver keys of the town, of ancient and curious
make, borne upon a crimson velvet cushion, which the Provost
presented to the Queen, as he proceeded to say—“And now give me
leave, with the most profound respect and devotion, to place at your
Majesty’s disposal the keys of your ancient Royal Burgh of Stirling.”
To this the Queen was graciously pleased to reply—
“We arc assured that they cannot be in better hands, and it affords
us much pleasure again to return them to your keeping.”
The Provost then addressed himself to Prince Albert, and said—
“May it please your Royal Highness,
“I beg most respectfully to address your Royal Highness, in the name
of the citizens, town-council, and magistrates of Stirling, to offer
our hearty welcome to your Royal Highness to Scotland. We duly
appreciate the condescension you have manifested in accepting the
freedom of the town, and we shall be delighted to reflect that your
Royal Highness’s name is added to the roll of the burgesses of
Stirling. The many virtues which adorn your character, and the very
great amenity of your manners, has endeared your Royal Highness to
the hearts of all Her Majesty’s losing and loyal subjects. Permit
me, in the name of those whom I have the honour to represent, to
wish your Highness good health, and every happiness that this world
can afford. And now, allow me to place in your hands a box
containing the freedom of the Royal Burgh of Stirling.”
His Royal Highness Prince Albert was pleased to reply—
“I am very proud of the honour you have now conferred upon me, and
request that you will present to the Magistrates and Town-Council my
best thanks for this mark of their esteem.”
The Provost then again addressed the Queen, who turned towards him
with the same dignity, mingled with sweetness, which she had
hitherto all along preserved. “Permit me one word of your Majesty I
had the honour to serve, for twenty-four years, under your Majesty’s
lamented father, his late Royal Highness the Duke of Kent,”— The
feelings of a daughter came upon the Queen—her eyes glistened, and
filled with interest, which increased as the Provost went on—“And,”
continued he, “it gives me peculiar pleasure, that, as Provost of
this town, I should now have the honour of receiving your Majesty,
under the immediate command of whose revered father I served in Nova
Scotia, and was for thirteen years the adjutant of his regiment,
during the whole of which time I had the honour to enjoy much of his
patronage, countenance, and favour.” . The Queen replied with great
feeling—“It gives me great gratification to find, as Provost of this
Burgh, one who served so long under my revered father.”
The burgess ticket presented to Prince Albert was inclosed in a
silver box, placed within another box, formed of a portion of oak
from the old house in Mar-place, once the residence of the
celebrated Scottish historian and poet, George Buchanan, and taken
down a few years ago.
The Provost having obtained Her Majesty’s permission to precede her
through the Burgh, he and his Magistrates entered their splendid
equipages, emblazoned with the arms of the town, and, preceded by
the Newhouse band, advanced in front of the Queen, amidst continued
cheering. Immediately in rear of the Royal cortege came the Miltown
band, with the members of the guildry, and the seven incorporated
trades. Passing by the end of Cowan-street, the procession moved up
Bridge-street, where many of the houses were decorated with flags
and evergreens, and Her Majesty proceeded amidst the loyal shouts of
the people, who took advantage of every point of elevation to gain a
better view. Her Majesty here passed a very antique house on the
right, which, notwithstanding a date of 1632 on it, is manifestly of
much older standing. It is called Queen Mary’s house, and tradition
says that it was occupied by her. Barriers and police were prudently
placed above this, where St. Mary’s-wynd becomes so narrow, as with
difficulty to admit of one carriage at a time. The fronts of the
houses projected close to the Queen’s carriage, so that Her Majesty
might have shaken hands with the well dressed persons who were the
temporary occupants of the windows of these mean old tenements. This
street comes at right angles into the lower end of Broad-street,
which is like a great market-place, having its highly inclined area
flanked on all sides by tall and venerable fronts of very ancient
houses. These were all so decorated with paintings, evergreens, and
floral designs, that it would be as vain to attempt to enumerate
them, as to particularize the thousands who filled the street and
the windows, who gave one universal burst of cheering as soon as the
Queen appeared from the narrow way, so loud, and so prolonged, that
the walls of old Stirling have not for many a day heard the like.
Her Majesty was obviously not less surprised than delighted, and
bowed repeatedly, with a smiling countenance, to both sides of the
street. Following the steep and winding way leading to the
esplanade, the Queen soon arrived at the gate of the castle, where
the crowds were immense. She was much struck with the appearance of
the 42d Highlanders, drawn up there, and Prince Albert expressed to
Colonel MacDougall, their commanding officer, his admiration of
their appearance and dress, and particularly noticed their bonnets.
The Queen was here received by the deputy-governor of the castle,
whom she recognised, saying as he came forward, “Sir Archibald
Christie, I believe.” As Her Majesty alighted on the scarlet cloth
laid for her, the gallant veteran, who wears the highly honourable
sears of terrific wounds received in the service of his sovereign,
made his obeisance, and said, that he was proud to have the honour
of receiving Her Majesty in one of the ancient palaces of her
ancestors. The Queen’s recognition of this brave old officer was
most gracious, and such as, whilst it highly honoured him, displayed
the kindness of her heart. The Prince was pleased to give him a
hearty shake by the hand. With the deputy-governor there was also
present Sir George Murray, colonel of the 42d regiment, then forming
the garrison. The Queen took the Prince’s arm, and attended by Sir
Archibald on the left, they slowly crossed the drawbridge into the
castle, where Her Majesty was saluted by a guard of honour. After
graciously acknowledging the salute, the Queen looked round, and
observing that the gate had been shut, and that the ladies of her
suite had been excluded, she called Lord Liverpool towards her, and
with a countenance sparkling with animation and benignity, pointed
out the mistake, and said, “Lord Liverpool, this must not be,” and
accordingly his lordship hastened to remedy the error; but before he
reached the gate, the ladies had been admitted. The batteries were
laid with crimson cloth, in expectation that the Queen might have
visited them, but want of time prevented Her Majesty from going
thither to look at one of the most wonderful prospects in her
dominions, which, however, would have been but indifferently seen
through the haze then prevailing.
In a clear day the eye looks down from this vast height upon the
broad and extensive plain of Stirling, stretching away far to the
eastward, bounded on its northern side by the grand range of the
green Ochils, with all their woods and villages, giving variety and
interest to their slopes—nearest to the eye, the fine form of Dumyot
rising from them, with the craggy and richly embowered precipices on
which it rests—and the varied park and grounds of Airthrey Castle,
seen undulating beyond the fine isolated hill of the Abbey Craig,
here presenting its bold basaltic cliffs towards the spectator.
Immediately under the Castle-liill are seen the old and new bridges,
with the broad majestic river winding through the deep and fertile
soil in wide circles, almost converting the intermediate spaces into
islands, producing the most beautiful intermixture of land with the
water, which is only distinguished in certain more distant spots
receding from the eye, by the stray catches of light reflected from
it, ever varying from one point to another, and occasionally
illuminating the whole expanse of the far-withdrawing Forth, covered
with sails, together with the town of Alloa and its shipping, six
miles distant from Stirling by land, but no less than twenty-four by
the windings of the river. Let those who never had the good fortune
to see this view, endeavour by their fancy to enrich the picture
here attempted to be described, by adding to it its hedgerows,
groups of trees, and buildings—its Lombardy poplars starting up
spirally here and there—the venerable tower of Cambuskenneth Abbey
rising from the scattered groves—the woods of Stewarthall, Polmaise,
and Dunmore Park, on the southern side of the plain— those of
Tullibody, Alloa, Kennet, and Tulliallan on the other— with the
picturesque tower of Clackmannan rising on its prominent eminence ;
and let the moving panorama of steamers and sloops be introduced
working in different directions among the cornfields, with their
prows directed now to one point of the compass, and again to that
directly opposite to it, as they thread through the links of this
most puzzling chain of inland navigation, and a scene will be
produced in their minds, which, though very deficient in
magnificence, may yet bear some faint resemblance to the original.
When the atmosphere is bright, the eye travels all over the distant
shores of the Firth, till it rests on the Castle of Edinburgh,
between thirty and forty miles off. Nor is the prospect devoid of
historical recollections. The very ancient name of Strivcling, or
the place of strife, indicating that this was a great theatre of
frequent contention from the earliest times—and situated as it was,
intermediate between the four great kingdoms of North Umbria and
Cumbria on the south, and the Scots and Picts on the north, it was
no wonder that it should have honestly earned this name,—in proof of
which no less than twelve important battle-fields may be seen from
the walls.
Having gone through the deep archway leading into the first court,
the Queen passed by the northern side of the palace, erected by
James V., so richly and grotesquely carved with figures, and entered
the great upper court-yard. Sir Archibald Christie pointed out the
interesting ancient buildings surrounding its four sides, all of
them pregnant with historical recollections. Here James II. was
born. James III. had a peculiar attachment to Stirling Castle, and
here much of his time was spent with his low and unworthy favourites,
to the exclusion and consequent disgust of his nobility and barons.
He built that large hall, 120 feet long, in the edifice on the north
side of the square, for the meetings of parliament. He also erected
the Chapel Royal, in which James VI. was baptized with grand
ceremonies, and which was afterwards demolished by that monarch
himself, in order to build, for the baptism of his son Prince Henry
in 1508, that chapel in the west side of the square, now the armoury,
where on that occasion the superb ceremonial was performed, so fully
described by Nisbet and others. At the banquet which took place in
the grand hall of the palace on that occasion, a huge chariot
entered, attended by people allegorically dressed, and after that “a
most sumptuous, artificial, and well-proportioned ship was moved
in,“ "the length of her keel eighteen feet, and her breadth eight
feet,” and the sea she stood upon was twenty-four feet. “ Her motion
was so artificially devised within herself, that none could perceive
what brought her in. She was curiously painted, and was freighted
with parts of the banquet, in gilt and azure crystal dishes. Her
masts were red—her cordage silk—her blocks were gilt—her sails were
of double white taffeta, and she carried thirty-six brass guns, and
a number of people in allegorical costumes,—and yet, extravagantly
rich as she was in construction, she was but one small item amidst
the multitudinous glories of this costly pageant. The eastern side
of the square is formed by the western front of the palace of James
V., covered like the other sides of the building with grotesque
carving. The southern side and south-western angle are filled by the
ancient palace of kings who reigned before the Stuart dynasty. The
Queen and Prince listened with great interest to Sir Archibald
Christie’s information regarding the history of these various
structures.
On arriving at the governor’s house, Lady Christie—now alas! no
more—was at the foot of the steps to receive the Queen, attended by
her two daughters, and also by Colonel Tytler, the fort-major, and
Mr. Peddie, his deputy, the Countess of Mar, the Hon. Miss
Abercromby, the Hon. Mrs. Lefroy, Miss Murray, daughter of Sir
George Murray, Lady Seton Stewart, and the Misses Seton Stewart. The
Queen entered the house, and went up stairs and visited the room
where James II., after having tried in vain to exhort William, Earl
of Douglas, to sever himself from his alliance with the Earl of
Ross, and Lindsay Earl of Crawford, well known as Earl Beardie, by
which they agreed to take part in all each others quarrels, even
against the King himself,—and finding that Douglas received his
remonstrances with haughty obstinacy, at last lost his temper, and
drawing his dagger and exclaiming, “By Heaven, my Lord! if you will
not break the league, this shall”—he stabbed him to the heart.
Douglas was instantly finished by Sir Patrick Gray and others in
attendance on the King, and his body was thrown out of the window,
underneath which it received a hasty grave, where his skeleton was
found about 40 years ago. The Queen admired the old carved roof of
the room which bears the name of James I.
Having then gone out to visit the governor’s garden, filling the
triangular space behind the house, the Queen climbed the ramparts,
where a banquette or stand was placed against the wall for her use,
but unfortunately a warm haze so filled the atmosphere, that the
grand prospect thence afforded, could not he very perfectly enjoyed.
This upper part of the vale of Stirling, stretching away far to the
westward, is watered by the three rivers Teith, Allan, and Forth—and
flanked by fine ranges of hills on either side. It is full of noble
residences, and other interesting objects, among which may be
mentioned Craigforth, with its lovely isolated eminence of rock and
wood rising picturesquely from the valley—the ancient house and
place of Touch Seton, the property of Lady Seton Stewart, from which
a flag then floated in the breeze, and which nestles in a corner of
the southern hills amidst extensive woods—Iveir, and Blair-Drummond,
with their richly timbered parks and grounds ;—and Doune Castle,
once the residence of Queen Mary. Of several of these, and
particularly of Doune, the Queen did enjoy views displayed by the
partial outburst of temporary fits of sunshine. When the sky is
clear, the eye refuses to confine itself to these nearer objects,
but stretching out athwrart the rich surface of the plain, it dwells
with sublime delight on the grand chain of the Grampians bounding
the view, where Benlomond, Benledi, Benvoirlich, Stuck-a-chrom,
Benmore, and many other magnificent mountains of the first class,
rise pre-eminent. Of the historical recollections connected with
this prospect, the most prominent were those suggested by the scene
immediately under the Queen’s eyes, where stood the ancient bridge
of Stirling, and the field of battle between Wallace and Cressingham.
Imperfect as the view was, the Queen and the Prince enjoyed it
exceedingly. Looking to the north, and almost close under the walls,
the situation where the young chevalier erected his batteries
against the castle was pointed out by Sir Archibald. The Queen and
the Prince showed their intimate acquaintance with the history
belonging to the country around them, by the questions they put, and
the numerous remarks the} made. Having led Her Majesty round to the
southern part of the rampart, Sir Archibald pointed out to her the
spot where stands the celebrated Bored Stone, in which the Royal
Scottish standard was set up previous , to the battle of
Bannockburn, and where Mr. Murray of Polmaise had, on this
auspicious day, ordered a flag to be placed. In the hurry of
narration, Sir Archibald Christie, having been previously speaking
of the battle of Stirling Bridge, by mistake mentioned the Bored
Stone as that in which Wallace had erected his standard previous to
the battle of Bannockburn, on which Her Majesty immediately said,
with a sweet playful smile—“Bruce, Sir Archibald.” The Queen looked
with great interest directly down, on “the Knott.,'’ which is a
beautiful architecturally formed green mound, surrounded by benches
of turf—standing in the middle of what was once the royal gardens,
and which is still the property of the Crown. Here, in ancient
times, rural galas w'ere held by the Sovereign and Court, and the
remains of a canal exist, on which they sailed in barges. The Queen
was pleased to give orders that these relics should he carefully
preserved, and it is to be hoped that Her Majesty may issue her
royal mandate for their perfect restoration and preservation. In the
Castle-hill, immediately over these gardens, is the hollow called
“the Valley,” of considerable extent, where the tournaments were
held, having on its south side a small rocky pyramidal mount, called
“the Ladies’ Hill,” where the fair ones of the Court were wont to
sit, anxiously watching the feats of their knights.
On the Queen’s return to the governor’s house, Lady Christie was
graciously permitted by Her Majesty to present to her the Countess
of Mar, whom the Queen kissed, and Lady Seton Steuart, who had the
honour of kissing Her Majesty’s hand. The mind of the Queen, well
stored as it is with historical facts, must have been somewhat
struck by the circumstance of her meeting with a Countess of Mar in
the very place where that family had borne almost regal sway, and
one of whose predecessors had received the infant Prince Henry at
his baptism here, — and that in Lady Seton she beheld a Stewart,
lineally descended from Alexander, sixth Lord High Steward of
Scotland, great-grandfather of Robert II., the first prince of the
Stuart line, and who, as a Seton of Touch Seton, is the lineal
representative of the hereditary armour-bearer and squire of the
body of the Scottish sovereign.
A luncheon was prepared for the Queen and the Royal party, together
with a desert, doing the highest honour to Stirlingshire; but as Her
Majesty’s time would not admit of her sitting down, she with great
condescension commanded some very superb grapes to be selected for
her, and put into the carriage. The Queen treated the venerable
soldier, Sir Archibald Christie, and his lady, with the kindest and
most amiable consideration. It is painful to record the severe loss
which this brave old officer has sustained by the recent death of
the amiable Lady Christie. As the Queen came out leaning on the
Prince’s arm, Sir Archibald directed her attention to an old chair,
placed on the top of the flight of steps leading to the door, which
had a piece of white satin attached to it, with an inscription
telling that it was the identical chair on which James V. sat, when
having been benighted out hunting, and separated from his
attendants, he happened to enter a cottage in a moor, at the foot of
the Ochils, near Alloa, where he was kindly received. Donaldson, the
gudeman, desired his gudewife to fetch, for the unknown stranger’s
supper, the hen that roosted nearest to the cock, which is always
the plumpest. The King, highly pleased with his night’s lodging and
hospitable entertainment, requested that the first time his host
should come to Stirling, he would call at the castle, and inquire
for the gudeman of Ballengeich. Donaldson did so soon afterwards,
when his astonishment at finding that the King had been his guest,
afforded no small amusement to the merry monarch and his courtiers;
and to carry on the pleasantry, he was thenceforward designated by
James by the title of King of the Moors, which descended from father
to son. They continued in possession of the identical spot, the
property of Erskine (now Earl) of Mar, till very lately. John
Donaldson, the last monarch of the moors, died at Ballochleam, in
Stirlingshire, twenty-eight years ago, aged ninety-three. He took
the greatest possible care of the chair honoured as a seat by the
King, affirming, that whilst he lived no harm should come to it. The
Queen, smiling to Sir Archibald, carried off the satin cloth on
which the history was inscribed.
Having entered the armoury, Sir Archibald directed the Queen’s
attention to an old pulpit, from which John Knox had preached. Her
Majesty graciously permitted Miss Fanny Christie to give her some
sketches of the leading objects seen from the windows and terrace.
The advanced hour prevented the Queen from visiting the nursery-room
of James VI., and the school-room, where he was taught by the
celebrated George Buchanan. At the outside of the portal gate, Sir
Archibald drew the Queen’s attention to the bomb-proof barrack-room,
beneath the ramparts, after which Her Majesty recrossed the
drawbridge, and taking leave of the governor, and the ladies and
gentlemen of the garrison, she got into her carriage, which went off
at a slow pace with the drags on, through the double line of
soldiers, with arms presented as on her entrance, and amidst loud
shouts and waving of handkerchiefs from the immense crowds on the
esplanade, and preceded as before by the carriages of the Provost
and Magistrates. As the Queen was coming up to the castle, one of
the Royal grooms said to a gentleman, “Pray, sir, do we come down
this way again? for I never saw so steep a street as this.”—“No,”
replied the gentleman, “not altogether; but you won’t find that the
street you have yet to see will be much better in that respect.” And
certainly he spoke truly, for there are not many steeper descents
through a town in any part of the world. In leaving the esplanade
for the Castle-wynd, the Queen passed immediately above the hollow
in which are to be found the few mean and curious looking houses
which have the name of Ballingoich, whence James V. adopted his
title of disguise for his rambles. On the left hand side of the wynd
itself stands that large and interesting old house, now the military
hospital, built in 1033 by Sir William Alexander of Menstrie,
secretary to Charles I., which afterwards came into the Argyll
family, and was the residence of John Duke of Argyll in 1715. At the
head of the broad High-street, stands that very curious old
building, called Marr’s Work, begun in 1572 by the Earl of Mar when
Regent, but never finished. Over one of the doors are these lines—
“The moir I stande on oppiu hitlit,
My l'avlts moir svbject are to sitlit."
And over another door are the following—
“I praiy al loikaris on this bigin,
Wi’ genteil eie to mark thair ligin.”
Two flags floated from the top of this building. The
ancient Gothic church, with its beautiful old tower, is a little way
off the street to the right. The spectacle which the Queen enjoyed
on her way down through Broad-street was extremely striking. The
Town-hall, a fine antique looking building on the right, had a large
painting of Her Majesty on one wing, with the well-chosen motto,
“Welcome the Queen who rejoices in the happiness of her people!” On
the other, there was a painting of the Prince, with the words, “Hail
Royal Albert! may your union with the Queen be lasting as it is
happy!” The whole was enriched with laurels, and the tower and spire
were decorated with flags. But one of the best imagined mottoes was
observed on the wide front of that very old house, with large
windows, facing up the street, once the residence of Henry Lord
Darnley, and now the sheriff-clerk’s office. The device was a crown,
with V. A., and the following apt quotation, slightly altered from
Scott’s Lady of the Lake—
"Slowly down the steep descent,
Fair Scotland’s Queen and nobles went,
While all along the crowded way,
Was jubilee and loud huzza!”
But it would be quite impossible to particularize the
decorations, which were endless in number and variety, not a house
being without some display.
Turning out of the lower end of Broad-street by the narrow
Bow-street, the Queen might have expected that the next move of the
horses would be up some turnpike-stair, so little does it resemble a
passage for carriages. Here the houses were absolutely draped with
tartan flags. Turning into Baker-street, the way became very
precipitous, and the view down the vista before the carriage was
singularly striking, the eye being carried through the perspective
of houses, all decorated and filled with human faces, who cheered
loudly as the Queen passed by, and this continued throughout
Baker-street and King-street. Amongst numerous beautiful
decorations, those on Drummond’s Agricultural Museum were the most
remarkable, and in extremely good taste. The front of the building
is tall and handsome. A beautiful drapery of wreaths, composed of
heath and ears of corn, hung from a star in the centre of the
cornice, with a floral crown suspended from it. Over the cornice
there was a subsoil plough, surmounted by a wheat sheaf and throe
flags, those at the sides sloping outwards. Before the central
window there was a very large floral crown, composed of dahlias,
roses, and asters, surmounted by a wreath of arbor vitae. The crown
was supported by a sheaf on each side, and on the windows to left
and right were the initials V. and A., executed in flowers. The
minor additions to these more prominent features were elegant and
tasteful. The Queen particularly remarked this decorated front, and
applied to a gentleman who was riding by the carriage, for
information as to what the building was.
The procession having turned into the level Port-street, at the
bottom of the steep descent, proceeded towards the south, and at the
Burgh-gate-barrier there was an elegant erection composed of
evergreens, spanning the whole width of the way with three arches.
On the top of that in the centre was “Victoria,” surmounted by a
richly gilded Scottish star and crown. On the cornice were figures
of the Queen and Prince Albert. On different parts of this handsome
structure were placed beautiful boys in the Highland garb, with
claymores in their hands, and others in blue jackets and straw hats,
with satin hatbands of Victoria tartan. On passing through this arch
at one o’clock, the magistrates, town-council, guildry, and others,
took leave of the Queen, and Her Majesty, accompanied by the
Vice-Lieutenants, Sheriff Handyside, Mr. Forbes, member for the
county, and the numerous gentlemen and yeomen who were ready waiting
on the county side of the arch to escort her, dashed off at a rapid
pace, amidst deafening cheers from the assembled multitude, and the
thunder of the castle guns. In the afternoon, 400 of the poor people
were supplied with pies and bread and cheese, and a pint of strong
ale each; and Mr. Ramsay of Barnton gave an ox, which was roasted
whole in the valley, and distributed in portions to all who came for
it.
Having cleared the town, and passed under the grand trees of the
avenue of approach to Stirling, and so by the villas extending
towards the country, the road still lined with crowds of shouting
people, the Queen came to the village of St. Ninians, about two
miles from Stirling. It is remarkable for its pretty little tower,
to which a church did belong, till it was blown up by accident in
1746, by the Highland army,—for the extreme narrowness, and up and
down, and winding of its main street,—and for its vicinity to that
grand field of ancient Scottish glory,, Bannockburn. The scene of
that momentous battle lies about half a mile to the south of St.
Ninians, and the ground is still such as to render the historical
description of it quite intelligible. The spot below the town, where
the skirmish occurred between Randolph and Clifford, on the evening
previous to the battle, is also well known. Beaton’s Mill, where the
wounded James III. was put to death, after his defeat, 18th June
1488, still exists in this parish.
As the great Falkirk sheep and cattle Tryst was holding at this
time, it required considerable management to get the way kept clear,
the continued stream of these animals being generally so immense,
that travellers prefer going several miles round to avoid them; but
the proclamations issued by the authorities were rigidly and
cheerfully adhered to, and not a sheep or an ox was to be seen on
the road. Had this been otherwise, the blocking up of the strait
passage through St. Ninians, might have detained the Queen for
hours; but from the excellence of the arrangements, its steep,
hollow, and narrow street was altogether unencumbered, save by a
string of respectable people on each side of the way, who served to
carry on the cheers that everywhere accompanied the progress of Her
Majesty. One little occurrence here may be worth notice : A person
in one of the windows dropped a folded piece of paper into the Royal
carriage, which fell on the Queen’s knee unperceived by Her Majesty.
The Prince, without saying a word, picked it up, and threw it over
the side of the carriage, very properly providing in this way
against the chance of its containing any thing offensive. It
afterwards turned out to be a piece of poetry in honour of Her
Majesty’s visit. The whole houses were white-washed, and festooned
with evergreens—the windows were full of curious and happy faces—
and ornamented arches were placed at both ends of the town; indeed
these material demonstrations of loyalty were so numerous all along
the route, as not to he easily counted.
This road is most delightful, from the charming prospects it affords
to the traveller. Every now and then extensive views are enjoyed, of
the rich plain of the Carse of Stirling, to which the eye finds its
way over cultivated slopes, between varied knolls and groves, and
groups of picturesque trees, the light frequently catching on the
distant meanderings of the Forth, or its estuary, with the town and
shipping of Alloa, and all its surrounding features, and the grand
Ochils stretching from Dumy of eastwards. From certain points, if
the traveller will only turn round to look towards it—Stirling is
seen rising boldly and embattled from the peaceful and variegated
plain, with the Abbey Craig, and the other objects near it—and above
all, the magnificent chain of the western Highland Alps closing in
the extreme distance. A few minutes spent in gazing upon such
prospects as these will hardly be considered as sacrificed.
The village of Bannockburn had five very tasteful arches, and
numerous parties were stationed at particular points, with bands of
music and flags, the cheering being everywhere loud and joyous, and
the Queen’s acknowledgments most gracious. The coal miners of West
Plain, in their best holiday clothes, marched down in a body to
Sauchenford to meet Her Majesty, and greeted her with the most loyal
acclamations. The Torwood toll-bar had an arch across the road
formed of oak and laurel, interspersed with fine flowers and
mountain-ash berries. Mr. Stirling of Glenbervie welcomed Her
Majesty with every possible demonstration of loyalty. A triumphal
arch of laurel was carried across the road, and fastened at either
end to two gigantic oaks, old denizens of the ancient and classical
forest of Torwood, the retreat of the heroic Wallace, which once
covered great part of the neighbouring district, and fragments of
which are still to be traced. A banner was displayed above the arch,
bearing the word “Welcome,” in large characters, whilst the letters
V. A., executed in dahlias, were hung from the arch. Mrs. Stirling
and family were stationed near it, waiting for the Queen’s approach,
surrounded by their domestics, and more than an hundred labourers on
the estate; whilst Mr. Stirling himself, at the head of twelve
stalwart ploughmen, dressed in neat livery, and mounted on fine
looking farm horses, met Her Majesty at the march of the property,
and escorted her for some distance along the road. The gate to
Larbert-house, the residence of Sir Gilbert Stirling, Bart., since
deceased, was ornamented with a laurel arch and a large flag. The
pretty village of Larbert, with its handsome church, standing on the
brow of the hill overlooking the classical valley of the Carron,
exhibited a laurel arch. The road passes through the village of
Camelon, not far from which is the site of the ancient Roman station
of that name, and the great wall of Antoninus, which ran from the
Forth to the Clyde, vulgarly known by the name of Graham’s-dyke. The
loyal people here had erected three arches, and they received the
Queen with loud cheers. In passing along the drawbridge across the
Forth and Clyde Canal, which was tastefully laid with pink cloth,
the ships assembled on each side of it were all dressed in party-coloured
flags.
The Queen entered Falkirk, escorted by a large body of the Earl of
Dunmore’s tenantry on horseback, with his lordship’s factor, Mr.
Salmon, at their head. Her Majesty’s eyes were greeted at its
entrance by a triumphal arch adorned with evergreens, and surmounted
by a crown, with the words, “Welcome to Falkirk.” The town presented
a very gay appearance, the fronts of all the houses being ornamented
with flowers and evergreens tastefully arranged. A number of
banners, bearing devices and inscriptions complimentary to the
Queen, were also displayed. The roads and railway having brought
people from many distant quarters, every window or place of vantage
was occupied, chiefly by ladies, and the streets were densely
crammed with people; and when the Queen appeared, their acclamations
rent the air, whilst thousands of handkerchiefs were waved, and Her
Majesty acknowledged the compliments paid to her with the most
condescending expressions of gratification. Falkirk stands on ground
which is high, when compared to the extensive low plain of the Carse,
over which it commands very fine prospects, as well as of the
distant Firth and mountains. It is also famous for its
battle-fields. That where Wallace was defeated by Edward I., lies
about a mile to the north of the town, near the banks of the canal,
and Sir John de Graham and Sir John Stuart, two of his bravest
associates, lie buried in the churchyard. Here, too, on the 17th
January 174G, the Chevalier defeated the troops under General
Hawley, in the well-known battle of Falkirk. The Royal carriage,
with its cortege, attended by the western and middle districts of
Stirlingshire, producing an accumulation of equestrians to the
number of 500, proceeded from Falkirk for half a mile, and then
wheeling suddenly to the right, it entered the grounds of Callander
House, the seat of Mr. Forbes, member for the county, where the
fresh horses were standing. The spectacle here was both animating
and amusing,— the carriages moving at a rapid pace—pedestrians
running across the lawn in all directions, and the horses of some of
those who were mounted carrying their riders in every direction but
that in which they wished to go. A party of the 53d regiment drawn
up here, presented arms to the Queen. Her Majesty stopped only
during the few moments occupied in changing horses, and then drove
off amidst the shouts of the multitude, which she graciously
acknowledged. Callander House is a princely old mansion, and the
park is full of extremely fine timber. It was the property of the
Livingstones, Earls of Linlithgow and Callander, till its forfeiture
in 1715 by the then existing nobleman. Here it was that Cardinal
Beaton and the Earl of Moray succeeded in persuading the Earl of
Arran, then governor of Scotland, to break off the proposed marriage
between Mary, the young Queen of Scots and Prince Edward, the heir
to the English throne. Had this not been done, Mary might have been
a queen-mother of England, and all the miseries she endured from
Elizabeth, terminated as they were by her murder, might have been
prevented; but “the ways of Heaven are dark and intricate.” It
appears that Mary afterwards visited Lord Livingstone, at Callander
House, in the year 1565. When Cromwell was on his way to give battle
to Charles II., then encamped at the Torwood, he stormed and took
Callander House, then garrisoned by the King’s troops.
Leaving the park of Callander by the east gate, the Queen reentered
the public road, at the Laureneeton toll-bar, which, like all the
others, was decorated with a magnificent floral archway. Mr. Forbes,
who had ridden with Her Majesty from the time she entered the county
at Lecropt, still continued to attend her at the head of his
tenantry. Having climbed the hill into the village of Laurenceton,
the Royal carriage proceeded at a very quick rate, cheered as it
went on by crowds stationed by the wayside. To the right, a peep
through the break in a bank disclosed for a moment the fine old
Scottish house of Westquarter, situated in a valley. This is the
seat of the gallant Admiral Sir Thomas Livingstone, Bart.,
hereditary keeper of the royal palace of Linlithgow. A little
farther on, the grounds running up both sides of the valley open
very prettily, whilst, to the left, a magnificent view is enjoyed
over the rich flat carse country, its groves, wooded rising grounds,
and fine residences, with the Firth of Forth, and the mountains
bounding the scene to the north.
A triumphal arch was thrown across the road at Polmont, and there
ninety of the Earl of Zetland’s tenants, well dressed and mounted,
and decorated with coloured rosettes, were standing ready to wheel
into the rear of the escort, which, like a river, was ever and anon
receiving tributary supplies from every road that debouched into it
from either side. Generally speaking, the tenantry of each
particular estate were assembled in small bodies, and those who had
not horses to enable them to gallop after the royal train, were at
least able to stand and cheer the Queen as she passed, and many of
them had bands of music. Every house, even to the humblest cottage,
was adorned with flowers or banners, or both. At some distance
beyond Polmont, the venerable towers of the royal Palace of
Linlithgow begin to appear, and where the valley of the Avon opens
up, the scene is extremely beautiful, the highly cultivated country
all around it being composed of swelling hills, and gently sloping
hollows, well wooded with fine groves, or intersected with
hedgerows. The pace of the Royal carriage was very rapid, and the
escort of mounted gentlemen and yeomen went as hard after it as if
they had been in the hunting-field, until they swept down to
Linlithgow bridge, which, though so called, is a full mile or more
from the town.
Here the Royal carriage halted, to give Her Majesty and the Prince
an opportunity of looking at the grand Viaduct of twenty arches, of
fifty feet span each, carrying the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway
over the fine valley of the Avon, a little way further up the
stream, and at an immense height over head. The accompanying scene,
and indeed the whole of the scenery beyond the viaduct, is extremely
rich, well wooded, varied and beautiful; and in the distance, the
noble aqueduct of the Edinburgh and Glasgow Canal is seen spanning
the valley. It luckily happened that a train of carriages drew up on
the viaduct at the moment Her Majesty stopped, to permit the
passengers to avail themselves of their singular good fortune in
thus having an opportunity of beholding their Queen, whilst, to Her
Majesty, the effect of the whole scene was enhanced by its
appearance, and the Royal pair gazed at it with admiration for some
minutes.
During the minority of James V., a battle was fought here between
the Earls of Lennox and Arran, which proved fatal to the former, and
his cairn long remained to mark his grave. The most bloody part of
the conflict took place close to the bridge. The river Avon, being
the boundary between the counties of Stirling and Linlithgow, the
authorities of the former were here prepared to resign their escort
of the Queen to those of the latter. The Earl of Hopetoun,
Lord-Lieutenant of the county of Linlithgow, was ready to receive
the Queen, attended by Mr. Sheriff Cay, the Earl of Buchan, the Hon.
Charles Hope, M. P., Mr. Dundas of Dundas Castle, Major Shairp of
Houston, and a very numerous body of mounted yeomen, all well
dressed. The road beyond the bridge was lined on both sides by the
Earl of Buchan’s Strathbrock tenants. Lord Hopetoun, whose sudden
and untimely death has so recently spread a gloom over the higher
circles of London, had that day the honour of conversing with the
royal travellers for some minutes. Having taken his place on the
right hand side of the carriage, whilst the Sheriff occupied that on
the left, the whole proceeded at a smart pace towards Linlithgow,
with the gentlemen and tenantry, formed four deep, riding behind the
Queen’s carriage.
The ancient burgh of Linlithgow, so intimately associated with many
passages of Scottish history, chiefly consists of one very long
street, stretching from west to east with gentle declivity, and
thence winding up through a steep and narrow passage into the
marketplace. It was whilst riding up this confined part of the
street that the Regent Earl of Murray was shot from a balcony, by
Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh, who hung up a black cloth on the wall
behind him to destroy his shadow, and make his person less
perceptible, and who escaped on a fleet horse, which he mounted from
behind the house. The market-place forms a pretty considerable
square, with a Dutch looking town-house, built in 1668, on the slope
of the hill to the north side of it. A very curious Gothic fountain,
covered over with grotesque figures spouting water, stands in the
centre of the square, being a restoration of the ancient well, built
in 1620, which some years ago fell into disrepair. From this square
the street running eastward becomes wider, and continues so till it
reaches the end of the town. A steep lane leads up to a rising
ground on the north, on which stands the fine old Gothic church. Its
beautiful tower was not many years ago terminated by an Imperial
Crown, of great elegance of architecture, but that part of it having
begun to fail, it was taken down and never afterwards restored. It
was in the St. Catherine aisle of this church that James IV. was at
vespers, just before the battle of Flodden, when a figure, dressed
in an azure coloured robe, girt with a linen sash, and with sandals
on his feet, and having a grave countenance, and wearing a profusion
of yellow hair, as if he had been the spirit of Saint John, the
adopted son of the Virgin Mary, suddenly appeared in a mysterious
manner at the side of the desk at which the King was kneeling at his
devotions, and leaning down on it with his arms in the most careless
and irreverential manner, told His Majesty that “his mother laid her
commands on him to forbear the journey which he purposed, as neither
he nor any who went with him would thrive in the undertaking.” He
likewise cautioned the King against frequenting the society of
women, or using their counsel, “for,” said he, “if thou dost thou
shalt be confounded and put to shame.” Immediately to the north of
the church stand the beautiful and extensive ruins of the Royal
Palace of Linlithgow, covering above an acre of ground. They crown a
gently sloping green promontory, projecting into the pretty lake of
Linlithgow, and partly surrounded on three sides by its waters. The
present appearance of the whole banks, between the castle and the
lake, shows that they must have been at one time laid out as a
garden of “plesaunce,” in fine terraces, and when this was the ease,
and the palace entire, it must have been a most delightful
residence. As it now exists, it surrounds four sides of an ample
court, its fafades being everywhere of polished stone, and in the
centre are the remains of a fine fountain, which contributed to give
to Linlithgow the character it has in the old district,
“Lithgow for wells,
Stirling for bells.”
The palace became a fixed royal residence after the
accession of the Stuarts. James IV. was more attached to it than to
any of his other seats. He built the eastern part of the edifice,
which appears to have been peculiarly magnificent. James V. added
the chapel and parliament hall, both of which must have been very
fine; and James VI. completed the grand square, by erecting the
magnificent apartments on the north. One banquet room is 94 feet
long, 30 feet wide, and 33 feet high. The chief entrance was on the
east, between two flanking towers, bearing on rich entablatures the
royal arms of Scotland, with the collars of the Orders of the
Thistle, Garter, and Saint Michael. There is also a grand porch of
entrance from the town on the south. The walls have many finely
carved coats of arms on them. The palace continued habitable till
1745, when it was burned down by the carelessness of some of the
royal army quartered here, on the same day that the church of St.
Ninians was blown up. During the struggle between Edward I. and the
Scottish patriots, the English garrison were surprised and
dispossessed by the device of one Binnock, ancestor of the Binnings
of Wallyford. Having been in the habit of supplying the garrison
with hay, he concealed some of Bruce’s men, completely armed, in his
cart, and thus introduced them into the place, so that they
immediately made themselves masters of it. Binnock was rewarded with
some lands in the southern part of the parish, which are still
called Binning after him. The unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots was
born in Linlithgow Palace, on the 8th December 1542, in a room
within the north-west corner of the quadrangle.
Every thing had been done upon the occasion of the Queen’s expected
visit, to brush up ancient Linlithgow. Provost Dawson was opposed to
arboreal decorations, inasmuch as it was apt to occasion the robbery
and destruction of shrubberies; but he gave a full license for the
use of flowers,—and he sent to all the towns and villages within a
reasonable distance of his own burgh, and not immediately in the
line of Her Majesty’s route, to borrow all the flags and banners he
could procure. He was especially fortunate in his application to the
port of Borrowstounness, where he procured an immense number of
flags of all sorts and colours from the shipping. Having, in the
first place, taken the necessary precaution to see that the town was
perfectly clean, and that the older houses were whitewashed, he
distributed his flags so profusely among the inhabitants, that
almost every window had one, and the whole picturesque line of
street was hung with them on either side from one end to the other,
presenting a very rich, novel, and extremely beautiful appearance.
The town-house and spire were ornamented with five banners of huge
dimensions, beautifully disposed, and the national flag floated from
the walls of the palace,—from the barbican of its entrance,—and from
the church tower. A wreath of flowers, tastefully arranged, was hung
across the street at the western entrance to the town, precisely
where the ancient gate of the burgh stood, until taken down about
fifty years ago. A fine floral crown was suspended from the centre,
the whole being surmounted by a broad coil of white cloth, on which
were the words, “God Save the Queen and Prince Albert,” in large
letters. Close to this, and on the right hand side of the way, a
sloping platform was raised about four feet from the ground, for the
reception of the Provost and Magistrates. A numerous body of special
constables were sworn in, and these being joined by the members of
the eight incorporated trades, under their respective deacons, the
whole were distributed by the command of the magistrates throughout
the entire length of the town, to preserve order along the whole
line of the Queen’s route. They carried white rods, and were
uniformly dressed in blue coats and white trowsers. These
precautions were fully warranted by the prospect afterwards
realized, of the immense crowds that were expected to congregate
from all quarters. Airdrie alone poured four thousand of its
industrious population down upon the burgh, who came the 18 miles by
the Slamannan railway, at sevenpence halfpenny a-head. One of the
trains, propelled by five locomotive engines, was one-third of a
mile in length, and contained 1500 individuals. Bathgate,
Borrowstounness, and even the opposite coast of Fife, sent their
multitudes; whilst the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway brought crowds
from the east and from the west, all anxious to witness Queen
Victoria’s passage through Linlithgow. The Provost, Magistrates, and
Council, having assembled at the Town-house at twelve o’clock, were
there met by the Provost, Magistrates, and Council of Bathgate, and
Mr. Gillon of Wallhouse, and at half-past twelve they proceeded in a
body, with a band of music before them, and their officers carrying
their halberds and the town standards, and took up their position on
the platform erected at the west end of the town. One of the flags
displayed the Black Bitch and the Tree, with the motto, “My fruit is
fidelity to God and the King,'’ from which is derived the
appellation usually given to the town, of “The faithful burgh of
Linlithgow.” On the other was the well-known arms of the town, the
angel Michael bearing a shield with the motto, “Collocet in ccelis
nos omnes Michaelis.” The Provost and Magistrates of Linlithgow were
in front of the platform, and the authorities of Bathgate were
immediately behind them. The burgh officers were stationed on either
side, with their halberds and banners, and a very strong body of
constables was also posted here, and every precaution was taken to
mark the station, and to preserve order. The band of music was
placed on the north side of the street, opposite to the platform.
The magistrates had previously taken care to communicate to the
proper quarter their intention to be in attendance in this spot, in
order to make their obeisance to the Queen and her illustrious
consort as the\ passed, and, if an opportunity occurred for so
doing, to read two very short addresses, one to Her Majesty, and the
other to Prince Albert, conferring on His Royal Highness the freedom
of the town, and copies of these were at the same time forwarded,
with an assurance that the Provost would be prepared to read them,
or merely to make his obeisance, as Her Majesty’s leisure might
permit. That to the Queen was as follows:—
“May it please your Majesty,
“We, the Provost, Magistrates, and Council of the royal burgh of
Linlithgow humbly beg to offer our loyal and affectionate
congratulations on your Majesty’s arrival in this your faithful
burgh, the favourite abode of many of your Royal ancestors. We
devoutly pray for long life, health, and happiness to your Royal
Consort and your illustrious progeny, and we humbly offer our
services in conducting your Majesty through this burgh.”
The address to Prince Albert was in the following terms :—
“May it please your Royal Highness,
“We, the Provost, Magistrates, and Council of the royal burgh of
Linlithgow, beg humbly and respectfully to assure your Royal
Highness, that it affords us the most lively pleasure to receive
your Royal Highness within the precincts of this ancient burgh; and
we beg to express our admiration of your exalted character, whereby
you have secured the affections of the subjects of our most gracious
Sovereign; and we most respectfully, entreat your Royal Highness to
permit us to have the honour of enrolling your name amongst the
number of our freemen, and to accept of the usual certificate.”
A vast concourse of people had stationed themselves in the vicinity
of the platform, and the multitude extended for upwards of five
hundred yards up the downward slope of approach to the burgh. The
road here is very spacious, having banks on either side of it, so
that it was admirably adapted for enabling the crowds of spectators
to get a favourable view of the sacred person of their Sovereign.
The descent to the town is pretty rapid. At three o’clock the Royal
carriage appeared at the crown of the height over which the highway
passes, and it came down the slope at its usual smart pace, preceded
by the dragoons, and accompanied by the Lord-Lieu-tenant, the
Sheriff, and the proprietors and tenantry of the county. The
afternoon having become rather chilly, the head of the Royal
carriage was unfortunately down, so that notwithstanding the
favourable position taken by the people who occupied the rising
ground, they had but an unsatisfactory view of their Sovereign. As
the carriage passed the stand where the magistrates were placed,
they made their obeisance to Her Majesty, the standards and pikes
were lowered, and the band played “God Save the Queen,” but as there
was no appearance of a stop, the Provost naturally imagined that the
reading of the addresses had been declined. The cheers of the people
were most enthusiastic, and the crowds collected on the high part of
the road to the westward, hoping to be gratified by a sight of the
Queen, made a simultaneous rush towards the station of the
magistrates, where they expected that Her Majesty would halt to
receive an address. Finding that the carriage drove on, they
followed, accumulating as they proceeded, till at length the street
getting narrower, it became choked up, and the horses having become
entangled in the mass, the postilions were compelled to pause for a
few moments, at the distance of some twenty yards below the
platform. The Provost, Magistrates, and Council, availing themselves
of this accident, succeeded, after a severe struggle, in putting
themselves in front of the Queen’s carriage, and the halberdiers
having cleared the way, they proceeded at a gentle pace at the head
of the procession. As no opportunity for reading the addresses was
afforded, the Provost made no attempt to do so, but the burgess
ticket conferring the freedom of the town on Prince Albert, was
afterwards transmitted to His Royal Highness, and most graciously
received.
During the Queen’s progress to the Cross-well, Her Majesty was
attended by continued cheering, and every possible demonstration of
the most enthusiastic loyalty. When the Royal carriage had reached
the square, it was conducted to a position on the slope between the
Town-hall and the fountain. A Guard of Honour of the 53d regiment,
drawn up in front of the former, presented arms. Here the horses
were changed, and during the short interval necessary for that
purpose, the Queen was observed to draw the attention of the Prince
to the fountain, which is indeed a very great curiosity. To the
thousands who had placed themselves here to await the arrival of the
Queen, were now added the thousands who had pressed after the Royal
cortege, and certainly this great mass of people, which completely
filled the square, all glowing with sentiments of the utmost
affection and loyalty to their young Sovereign, now quietly seated
in her carriage in the midst of them, presented a spectacle which
can never be forgotten by any one who had the good fortune to behold
it. Sir Thomas Livingstone, keeper of the palace of Linlithgow, was
there ready to attend the Queen thither if it had been her pleasure
to visit those most magnificent and interesting ruins, and it is
much to be regretted that the lateness of the hour, and the nature
of the other Royal arrangements, should have prevented Her Majesty
from enjoying this gratification. The fresh horses having been
attached, the Royal carriage moved onwards, preceded by the
Magistracy, and these having stood aside at the eastern end of the
town, and made their humble bows, the Queen left her faithful burgh
of Linlithgow, amidst the cheers, and followed by the blessings of
its inhabitants, and all wbo were that day within its precincts.
Amidst the roaring of the cannon of a battery, erected by Provost
Dawson, the Royal carriage proceeded up the hill from the eastern
end of Linlithgow, at a pace that soon distanced the whole crowd of
followers on foot, and not a few of those upon horseback. From
several parts of the road the Queen had fine views of the rich
country through which she was travelling. Having soon swept on to
the village of Winchburgh, Her Majesty’s attention was there
directed to the fine old ruin of Niddry Castle, in an ancient grove
of trees, a little to the right of the road. This was the place to
which Mary Queen of Scots retreated the night after her escape from
Lochleven. As the carriage proceeded, the wooded hill of Dundas
opened to the left. To the right were the fine woods of Newdiston,
planted by the celebrated Field-Marshal John Earl of Stair, as
remarkable for his enterprise and capacity in the field, as for his
wisdom in the cabinet. The grounds are ahove three miles in
circumference, and the trees were arranged by him according to the
plan of one of Marlborough’s battles, in which he had been himself
engaged: yet the effect of the whole, now that they have become of
great age and size, is extremely good.
At Kirkliston, where the horses were again changed, there was a
handsome arch across the road. The church here is exceedingly
curious and ancient, having been one of those belonging to the
Knights-Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem, who had large
possessions in this parish previous to the Reformation. The village
being situated on the upper part of a pretty slope, the view all
over the extensive plain stretching to the westward of Edinburgh, is
extremely fine, embracing the Pentland range, and all those
beautiful hills in the neighbourhood of the capital, Arthur Seat,
Braid, Blackford, Craig-lockhart, and others, together with the
Castle of Edinburgh. Sweeping down for about a mile to the
Boathouse-bridge, over the river Almond, the Queen’s carriage passed
through the turnpike-gate a little way beyond it, and there Her
Majesty again entered the county of Edinburgh. Here the
Lord-Lieutenant of Linlithgowshire, with the gentlemen and farmers
of his escort, left the Queen, and their places were taken by the
Duke of Buccleuch, and a body of three or four hundred mounted
gentlemen and farmers of the county and city of Edinburgh,
marshalled by Sir John Hope, Baronet. The Royal carriage proceeded
at so quick a pace, that it put both the horses and men to their
mettle. One farmer was riding like fury with his girths burst from
the buckles and hanging down, and a gentleman calling his attention
to the circumstance—“Hoot!” said he, “I ken that very weel; but tv
ha can think o’ stopping to buckle girths on sic a day as this.” And
on he went, whipping and spurring with the best of them.
At a field’s breadth to the left stands a very curious monument of
antiquity, called the Catstone, giving name to the surrounding farm.
It is a single stone, in the form of an irregular prism, about 4|
feet in height, and 11^ feet in circumference, with the following
inscription, deeply cut in a rude manner on its south-eastern face
:—
IN OCT VMVLO IACI VETTA D YICTA
This has very much puzzled antiquaries. Buchanan, and
other historians, tell us, that a very bloody battle was fought here
on the banks of the Almond, in the year 995, between Kennethus,
natural brother and commander of the forces of Malcolm II., King of
Scotland, and Constantine, when both the generals were killed.
The approach to Edinburgh from this side is extremely fine. It
passes over the rich and beautiful plain, through which the rivers
Almond and Leith find their way, the Pentland hills bound it to the
right, and in advance of them are those of Craiglockhart, Braid, and
Blackford, whilst to the left arise the lovely wooded hills of
Craigie-hall and Corstorphine, with their groves and villas, and in
the midst of all the Castle of Edinburgh starts boldly up, backed by
Arthur’s Seat. All along the road handsome floral decorations
appeared on the houses. These were especially remarkable in the neat
little village of Corstorphine, where the humblest vied with each
other in their endeavours to manifest their attachment to their
Sovereign. The church here was built in the form of a Jerusalem
Cross, by Sir John Forester of Corstorphine, in 1429. It is a strong
and very curious Gothic fabric, with a fine heavy stone roof. It
contains a number of curious monuments of the Lords Forester and
others, with recumbent figures of knights in armour, and of ladies
in the costume of the time in which they lived. In its eastern end
there was a pully, whence hung a lamp in olden times, which was kept
burning at night, from the rental of an acre of ground close to
Coltbridge, called the Lamp Acre. This was done to cheer the late
and lonely traveller on his dreary way, and to aid him in directing
his course aright—the literal purpose, in truth, for which all
churches were originally erected. But here the lamp was to assist
him in avoiding the many bad steps and bogs, which, highly
cultivated as the country now is, and good as the road may now
appear, then, doubtless, beset the way from Edinburgh so thickly, as
to put him in great peril of falling a victim to the wiles of Will
o’ the Wisp, and his mischievous elves. But with roads such as we
have now, and patent bull’s eye lights, throwing the blaze of day
for some hundred yards before a vehicle, the occupation of the
solitary lamp has been long since gone, and the acre for its support
has been diverted to the purpose of raising potatoes to keep the
little spark of life burning in the village schoolmaster.
The whole three miles of road from Corstorphine to Edinburgh,
running for great part of the way along the base of the Corstorphine
hills, and then crossing the river of Leith by Coltbridge, and so
onward till it reaches the western extremity of the city, presented
one uninterrupted line of carriages, and the footpaths and walls
were covered with people, pressing to welcome the return of their
Queen. The boys and girls of the Orphan Hospital were ranged along
the top of a wall to the west of Whltehouse toll-bar, all clothed in
their best apparel, with branches of trees in their hands, and their
countenances shining with joy. The Queen was received with loud and
continued cheering all along this line, and especially at the toll-har,
where she arrived about twenty minutes past four, and where fresh
horses were ready. Here, consequently, the greatest mass of the
multitude was congregated, and during the somewhat less than two
minutes occupied in changing horses, the shouts there were
deafening.
Sweeping past the Railway station, and so into town by West
Maitland-street, Athol-place, Coates and Athol-crescents, East
Maitland-street, and Shandwick-place, all lined by the Inniskilling
Dragoons, the windows and balconies were filled with ladies and
gentlemen, who cheered Her Majesty, and waved their handkerchiefs,
in expression of their joy for her safe return. At the point where
West Maitland-street and Morrison-street branch off, a whole stream
of carriages and people, both on foot and on horseback, rushed away
up the latter, with fearful risk of tremendous collisions, hut with
the hope, that as they had only one side of the triangle to go
along, they might reach the upper end of the Lothian-road before the
Queen should pass. Two farmers on heavy draught horses had been
sadly thrown out, but when they came to Morrison-street, one shouted
to the other, “Jock! come awa’ this way, man, and maybe we’ll catch
her yet!” and off they set together, helter-skelter, their two
animals blowing like porpoises. As the Queen reached the end of
Princes-strect, the Castle began to fire a royal salute. This part
of the way was lined by the 53d regiment. Reaching the upper end of
the Lothian-road, long before Jock or his friend, and many better
mounted individuals, the Queen swept through Bread-street, and by
the Main-point, into Lauriston, and so on through Bristo-street and
Newington to Mayfield toll-bar—all this amidst the incessant
cheering of the crowds that lined the streets and filled the
windows.
At Mayfield toll-bar, where the Queen arrived at five o’clock, the
weary horses of the gentlemen of the western part of the county, who
had ridden with her eight miles in little more than half-an-hour,
were relieved, and those of the southern and eastern districts,
marshalled by Captain Burn Callander, were waiting ready mounted.
The change of horses took place here; and as this was the last, it
may he now stated, that no less than 286 pairs in all were required
for the Queen’s journey, which were admirably supplied by Mr. Isaac
Scott, postmaster, Kirkbraehead. Whilst the changes of the horses
and escort were making, the immense crowds assembled here kept up
the most deafening shouts—her Majesty, as usual, most graciously
acknowledging their compliments, and then off dashed the carriage
again with its followers, at such a pace, by Greenend and Gilmerton
to Dalkeith, that the five miles were performed in twenty-three
minutes. On reaching the Palace, the yeomen gave three hearty cheers
as the royal pair alighted, and the Queen afterwards bowed
graciously to them from the window of the drawing-room.
The royal dinner-party this day consisted of—
The Queen and Prince Albert,
The Duke and Duchess of Buecleuch,
Sir Robert Peel,
The Hon. Miss Paget,
General Wemyss, Sir James Clark, Colonel Bouverie, Captain Ingram,
Captain Warren,
The Duchess of Norfolk, The Earl of Hardwick, Lady Mary Campbell,
The Earl and Countess of Cawdor,
The Earl of Liverpool, The Earl of Aberdeen,
Lord Frederick and Lady Augusta Fitzclarence,
Lieutenant Atkins,
Lieutenant Fenton, Cornet Emmett.
Lord and Lady John Scott, Lord and Lady Emlyn, |
