Every heart was
charmed by the great condescension of the Queen, and especially by
her kind and considerate manner towards Lord Glenlyon, in the very
helpless state in which he then was. After having repeatedly
expressed the high sense she entertained of the admirable manner in
which every thing had been done at Dunkeld, Her Majesty took leave
of her noble host and hostess, and got into her carriage at
half-past three o’clock, to start for Taymouth. The chosen guard of
the Lochaber-axe men, who had escorted the Queen from the southern
end of the bridge, now again attended her thither; and as the
carriage left the grounds, the enthusiastic cheers of the assembled
multitudes were overwhelmed by the thunders of the mountain echoes,
again awakened by the guns of the Stanley-hill battery, firing
another royal salute. During her short progress through the town
towards the bridge, the Queen met with the same loyal demonstrations
which formerly greeted her. But although she failed not to
acknowledge them, she seemed to be somewhat pensive; and it was not
wonderful that her thoughts should be thrown back upon the
remarkable scene she had just witnessed, where so many warm and
loyal hearts had been assembled to do her honour, with a feeling of
regret that it should have so soon flitted away with fairy-like
instability. From the peer to the humblest clansman, all had been so
filled with enthusiasm, that they would have sacrificed even their
own lives, rather than have failed in the smallest tittle of the
duty they owed their sovereign. At the moment of the Queen’s
departure, Lord Glenlyon dispatched his brother, on Lady Glenlyon’s
beautiful and favourite horse, to escort Her Majesty, who gave
orders that the carriage should be stopped at every fine point of
view, that she might obtain from Captain Murray the names of the
different places and hills, all of which she wrote down with a
pencil. When Captain Murray reported on his return, that no one had
met him on the confines of the Athole territories to escort the
Queen onwards, Lord Glenlyon asked why he had not gone on with Her
Majesty? “If I had done so,” replied the Captain, “I might have
killed Anne’s horse.”—“And you ought to have killed Anne’s horse
rather than have left the Queen unattended,” was Lord Glenlyon’s
answer. By the time Her Majesty had reached the middle of the
bridge, the royal eyes again lighted up with their most interesting
expression, on beholding the romantic prospects everywhere commanded
from it; and, judging from the earnestness of her observation, Her
Majesty seemed anxious to impress the whole of their features deeply
on her mind.
Turning up to the right, a little beyond the bridge, the Queen and
her cortege moved rapidly on through the beautiful scenery, to the
charming little village of Inver, so called from its position just
in the angle of junction between the wild and rocky river Bran, and
the broader and more majestic stream of the Tay. Before Dunkeld
bridge was built, the ferry here afforded the great passage towards
the Highlands of Athole; and the village itself will ever be
remarkable as having been the birth-place and the residence of Neil
Gow. The scenery is well known to be exquisitely beautiful. The
village is approached by a bridge over the Bran, and immediately
beyond it the Tay comes in a broad, silent, but powerful stream,
through a grand pass formed by Craig-y-Barns and the Iving’s-seat on
one side, and Craig-Vinean on the other, the whole surrounding
steeps, as well as the banks of the rivers, being magnificently
wooded. It happened that a few young gentlemen from Cambridge had
taken up their residence at Mr. Pullar’s inn, for the purpose of
reading for their college honours; but although it must doubtless
have required a great effort in students so ardent, to throw aside
their books even for a day, they nobly felt that the occasion
demanded the sacrifice. They accordingly exercised their ingenuity
in throwing a fine triumphal arch, elegantly decorated with flowers,
from the western wing of the inn, quite across the road. It was
somewhat singular that these Englishmen should have hit off the most
rational as well as national mode in which Scotsmen, and especially
Highlanders, could do honour to their Queen, and show the fervour of
their loyalty. The whole population of Inver, and its neighbourhood,
having turned out to receive their sovereign, the moment that the
cannon announced Her Majesty’s departure from Dunkeld, these men of
Cambridge armed every man, woman, and child for her due and proper
reception, with a brimmer of the native mountain dew, and there they
stood all ready; and the moment that the Royal carriage came so near
that the Queen could see and duly appreciate the nature of the
compliment, every individual present held up a bumper-charged hand,
and the word of command being given, health and happiness to the
Royal pair was shouted forth, and over went the whole contents of
every glass, scaoopes, that is to the very bottom. A hurrah
followed, worthy of the loyal spirit that gave it birth. It would be
curious for the political economist to ascertain how many gallons of
whisky were in this one moment of loyal effusion poured from the
glasses into the interior of these good people, and how much the
revenue was thereby benefited. Her Majesty did not stop to inquire,
but she seemed to be considerably amused with this novel method of
making a loyal demonstration.
Passing Inver, and winding over the north-western side of Craig-Vinean,
the scenery of the Tay becomes more expanded, but very beautiful,
and the road continues up its western bank amid richly cultivated
fields, lying on the base and slopes of the hills, interspersed with
wood, and having here and there cheerful cottages and comfortable
residences. Ualguise is particularly interesting, from its
old-fashioned terrace-garden being seen from the road. A little
beyond this, in the wood at Miltown of Ivincraigie, a very pretty
arch was thrown across the way, with the well conceived words, in
large letters, “Welcome to your Highland glens,’ with V. R. and a
crown. This was most appropriately placed near the mouth of
Glen-Albert, giving additional value to the compliment. Everywhere
the population had turned out in groups—some almost amounting to
crowds; and as no native of the Highlands ever assumes an an kward
attitude, they very much improved the scenery, as they generally
chose the prettiest spots, and those which showed them in the most
picturesque point of view. One old woman was observed reading her
bible, which she scarcely discontinued, even when the Queen was
passing by. Leaving the house of Kinnaird upon the right, the Queen
enjoyed an extensive view of the beautiful valley of the Tummel,
here joining the Tay, and forming the grand avenue of approach into
Athole.
Running westward up Strathtay Her Majesty reached the small inn of
Balnaguard, where the Royal carriages stopped to change horses. Miss
Jameson from Logierait, having previously collected some beautiful
sprigs of heather, took the liberty of approaching the Royal
carriage here, and after making her humble obeisance, ventured to
present them to the Queen. Her Majesty was graciously pleased to
accept this rural offering, and with the utmost courtesy and
frankness, thanked the lady for her attention, and handed some of
the sprigs to Prince Albert, who fixed them in the breast of his
coat. Some of them fell from the Queen’s hand, and were picked up by
one of the pages, and restored to his Royal mistress, who turned to
Miss Jameson, and, to show that the accident arose from no
indifference to her present, with great condescension expressed her
regret that it had happened.
The valley of the Tay is extremely rich and beautiful here, and its
northern bank is thickly set with gentlemen’s seats and Highland
hamlets, from its junction with the Tummel upwards. The ancient seat
of the Stewrarts, the old castle of Garntully, with its singularly
picturesque hanging turrets, rising from amidst its ancient avenues
and groves, presents an interesting object to the left. Beyond this
the features of the valley become more decided. On its northern
side, the Weem Craig, a lofty and finely wooded craggy hill face, is
seen beetling over Castle Menzies and the village of Weem, whilst
Aberfeldy appears on its southern side. The Royal carriage swept
rapidly on towards the latter pretty village, and before reaching
it, passed under a triumphal arch of heather, executed with great
taste, where the Queen read her Highland greeting in the motto,
“Welcome to Breadalbane.” Here Her Majesty entered the extensive
territory of the Marquess of Breadalbane, which stretches from this
point for very nearly one hundred miles, to the Western Ocean,
altogether exclusive of those islands there forming integral parts
of his vast domain. A nobleman, whose estate lay in one of the
smallest English counties, being on a visit to an ancestor of the
Marquess, and being delighted with Taymouth, and the scenery around
it, exclaimed, “This lovely property of yours wants one thing only
to make it perfect.”—“What is that?” demanded Lord Breadalbane.—“Why,”
replied the English peer, “if you could only remove it into our
county, it would then be all that one could desire.”—“There is a
serious objection to your proposition,” replied Lord Breadalbane,
“and that is, that your county is much too small to hold my estate!”
and there was no exaggeration in this.
Aberfeldy is beautifully situated where the small river that forms
the romantic falls of Moness, quits its mountain ravine, and hurries
over the plain to join the Tay. The whole of its houses were
whitewashed, and decorated with heather and evergreens, and
triumphal arches were erected in various parts of the village. While
the Queen changed horses here, and the people were crowding closely
round the carriage, the landlord of the inn vigorously exerted
himself to keep them back; but a man, rather elevated with the
beverage of the country, made numerous attempts to get forward,
saying, “That he and all his forbears were friends of the Stuarts,
and that he had a right to bid the Queen welcome to the hills.” A
mutual scolding and altercation took place in Gaelic, and the
excited expression of their countenances, with the absurdity of
their gestures, and their Celtic vociferation, were altogether so
ludicrous, that the Prince was highly amused with them, and calling
the Queen’s attention to the scene, they laughed at it very
heartily. In driving through the village, the Queen met with a
greeting similar to that she encountered at Inver. One hundred of
the villagers were arranged on each side to right and left of the
street, each with an overflowing glass of whisky in his hand, and
the moment the carriage came so near as to place Her Majesty within
ken of their motions, they shouted forth her health, tossed off
their bumpers, and then cheered her with loud hurrahs.
The road all the way hence to Taymouth, a distance of some six or
seven miles, is exquisitely beautiful, and it was everywhere
enlivened by dense masses of joyous Highlanders crowding to see
their Queen. After leaving Aberfcldy, the craggy steeps of Weem and
Dull arise to a great height on the opposite side of the river, hung
with grand woods. A wide plain of very fine land, richly cultivated,
and umbrageous with hedgerows, there stretches between the mountains
and the Tay. At one end of this is the village of Weem, and Castle
Menzies, the ancient seat of Sir Neil Menzies, chief of the clan of
that name, towers from the midst of its ancestral trees. It was
built in the year 1571, and its pleasure grounds, avenues,
plantations, and walks, prove that landscape gardening must have
been much attended to at a very remote period in the Highlands. The
Queen was particularly struck with this fine old building and place.
The fall of the Tay is so gentle, that although Castle Menzies is so
far in the interior of the country, it stands comparatively but very
little above the level of the sea. All this combination of richness
and wildness is heightened, as the road proceeds, by the pointed
pinnacle of Shihallion, and the bulk of Ferragon appearing over and
behind the northern heights, while the opening of Glenlyon leads the
eye into a wilderness of beauty, and the magnificent wooded hill of
Drummond rises farther on above the park of Taymouth. The whole of
this is rendered the more lovely by the noble river, up the margin
of which the road winds, amidst trees of giant growth, whilst an
ever-changing series of fine pictures are continually presenting
themselves through the interveiling openings. The charms of the
scenery go on increasing as the road draws nearer to the immediate
grounds of Taymouth, and the park wall, with undulated knolls
appearing over it, covered with oaks of great magnitude, indicates
the approach to the grand entrance gate, which is soon afterwards
recognised by the massive castellated building protecting it.
Before carrying the Queen forward, it may be as well to attempt to
give some description of Taymouth, and of the preparations made
there, that its effect on Her Majesty may be somewhat better
comprehended. Imagine then a wide valley, being a prolongation of
that through which the Queen has been described as travelling—
having on its northern side the extended, lofty, and precipitous
face of the hill of Drummond, covered with old woods, except only
where here and there a bare crag lifts his bald and lichen-tinted
front, like a giant peeping from the leafy umbrage,—and on the
southern side, the long stretch of the Taymouth hills, mostly
wooded, but having beautiful green lawns interspersed, and though
steep in many parts, appearing to drop down in most others in rapid
slopes into the plain below. To the west this plain is bounded by
the lower end of Loch Tay, which stretches away between misty
mountain chains, over which Benlawers and Benmore are proudly
pre-eminent. These are the grand bounding features of this beautiful
district, extending some five or six miles in length by a mile or
more in breadth, and entirely laid out in the pleasure grounds of
Taymouth.
The castle itself is built on the ancient site of that of Balloch—
that is, the town of the Loch. The ancient fortress was erected by
Sir Colin Campbell, the fourth Baron from that Sir Colin who was the
first of the house of Glenurquhy. A question was put to this prudent
Highlander, why he had thus built his family place of strength so
near to the eastern extremity of his property; to which he replied,
—“Ou, we maun just brisse yont.” That is, “ we must press beyond;”
and accordingly it has happened, that, by good fortune, a great deal
of land has been added to the estate to the eastward, including the
village of Aberfeldy. This ancient hero, who lived about the middle
of the sixteenth century, was a great builder of castles—not
Chateaux en Espagne, but good substantial fortalices—and his son,
Sir Duncan Dhu, took after his father in this particular. Thus it
was that Sir Duncan afterwards acquired the designation of “the
Knight of the Seven Castles.” These were, Kilchurn, on Loch-Awe,
built in 1450; Balloch; Finlarig; Edinample; Achallader; Loch-Dochat;
and Barcaldine. All these, except Kilchurn, were built by Sir Colin
and Sir Duncan. This Sir Colin was great-grandson of the first Sir
Colin of Glenurquhy, who was third son of Duncan first Lord Campbell
of Loch-Awe, by Margery, daughter of Robert Duke of Albany. Sir
Colin of Glenurquhy, founder of the Breadalbane family, is
erroneously stated in the Peerages to have been one of the Knights
of Rhodes—a mistake arising from the fact that he was dubbed knight
at Rhodes. Another error ought to be corrected. He is said to have
married Margaret, the second of the three daughters of John Lord
Lorn, whereas his wife was Janet, the eldest of the three daughters.
This has arisen from a circumstance lately discovered. His nephew,
and the representative of his father’s family, Colin second Lord
Campbell, afterwards created first Earl of Argyll, married the
younger sister of his wife, on which occasion the Laird of
Glenurquhy consented that the title of Lorn, and superiorities
thereof, should be made over to Argyll, agreeing, at the same time,
to hold the third of his own lordship from him, all which was done
with the clannish desire of increasing the power and honours of his
paternal house.
The present Taymouth Castle was entirely rebuilt by the late
Marquess of Breadalbane, and has since received some additions from
his son, the present Marquess. Speaking of the building externally,
it is now an immense pile, its principal part consisting of one
great square mass of four stories in height, crowned with a
battlement, and having a large round tower rising from the ground at
each of the four angles. From the centre of this mass arises a great
and very lofty square tower, enriched with tall Gothic windows
filled with stained glass. The castle fronts the south, and when the
main part is looked at from that quarter, a high picturesque gable,
attached to its western side, filled by a grand florid Gothic
window, richly coloured, and altogether like that of a cathedral,
unites it with a large oblong building of three stories, jutting
southwards, surmounted by an enriched battlement. From the
north-eastern angle of the great central mass, there runs out a long
irregular wing of two stories, all in a corresponding style of
architecture. The front of the main part is decorated with Gothic
balconies, having access from the windows of the second story, and
these projecting over the lower story, cover the great entrance. The
north-western angle has been so varied, that whilst unity of
character is perfectly preserved, a good deal of picturesque effect
is produced. It is altogether a very imposing pile, and as it has
been improved by the present Marquess, it is not improbable, that
magnificent as it is externally, it may yet be made still more so,
by those touches of a master hand from which alone an approach to
perfection can be produced.
The castle stands on an extensive flat of green sward of the closest
texture and liveliest green, around the northern side of which the
Tay makes one large and bold sweep. A straight, broad, and
magnificent avenue of lofty lime trees crosses as the chord of this
extensive semicircular piece of ground immediately behind the
building. This has been partly broken up, and, without being
destroyed in itself, it now combines happily with single trees and
groups of beeches and other kinds of timber, that tower up from the
smooth turf, whilst wide gravel walks wind along under those
bordering the stream, and patches of shrubbery diversify the whole.
A long bridge gives access to the northern bank of the river, which
embraces this semicircular amphitheatre, and rises abruptly to
another wide terre-plein, at no great height above the level of the
stream, and running back to the base of Drummond bill. The whole of
this sweeping bank is covered with the finest timber, and above its
upper edge a grand and broad grassy avenue, flanked by trees of the
noblest growth, follows the sweep of the Tay on the one hand, and
that of the plain on the other. All that has been here described is
to the north of the castle.. To the front, the level lawn stretches
southwards into the deer park, here wire-fenced off, and so onwards
till it meets the burn of Taymouth, at the base of the slopes of the
southern hills. On a fine elevated terrace on their face, stands the
Fort, mounted with nine 12-pound carronades, its white buildings
rising from among the thick wood ; and still higher up, and more to
the westward, rises a tower, occupied by the head keeper. At some
distance to the right of the castle, that is, towards the west,
there are banks, stretching north and south, which seem to have been
at one time architecturally shaven, in the old style of landscape
gardening, and these lead on from their upper angle westwards in
levels of somewhat higher elevation than that on which the castle
stands. Above this, and more to the westward, the valley widens, its
surface becomes more undulating, and the richness of its wooding
thickens, and then the park again opens, having some wooded knolls
rising towards its northern side, on one of which, called Tom-na-croich,
or the gallows-hill, there is a battery mounted with two short
32-pounders, two long 24-pounders, and four long (5-pounders. Beyond
this it is bounded by the wall of enclosure, and its western gate
leads directly into the square of the nice clean little village of
Kenmore, with its handsome church, embosomed in trees. This was the
scene alluded to in that curious manuscript, called the Black Book
of Taymouth, when noticing the execution of a chief of the Clan
Gregor, by Sir Colin, the sixth laird of Glenurquhy, who built the
castle. “He was ane great justiciar all his tyme, throch the quhilk
he sustcnit the deidly feud of the clan Gregour ane lang space. And
bcsydes, that he caused execute to the death mony notable lymmares,
he behiddit the Laird of Macgregor himself at Ivendmoir, in presence
of the Erie of Atlioll, the Justice-Clerk, and sundrie other
noblemen.” This was Gregor Roy, to whom his executioner was second
cousin. The village occupies a gently rising peninsula, jutting into
the eastern end of Loch Tay, immcdiateh to the south of the point
where a very handsome bridge of five arches spans the new born river
Tay, carrying across it the road that leads privately to the kitchen
garden, and publicly along the north side of the lake towards Killin.
Returning to the castle, and taking up the great bend of the river
there, its sweeping course runs thence quite up to the sloping base
of the hills, and meeting them at the point where it is joined by
the burn of Taymouth, where the fork of the two streams embraces an
extremely low and very beautiful piece of level ground. The abrupt
point of the high bank and continuous plain on the northern side of
the river, is crowned by the Star battery, a very pretty little
fortification, mounted with twelve guns, eight of them long
G-pounders, and four of them 6-pound carronades. From hence
eastwards, as far as the pleasure grounds go, the woods, chiefly
composed of gigantic oaks, of a fine free growth that would not
disgrace the forest of Windsor itself, come down from the higher
faces of the southern hills, spreading themselves sometimes in
thicker masses, and sometimes almost thinned to single trees, and
rising even where from a most picturesque assemblage of knolls,
intervening hollows and ravines, intermixed every now and then with
fairy glades, and affording a thousand pictures for the artist, many
of which are scenes where the melancholy Jacques might love to
repose, or the fair Rosalind to roam, and where the musing
philosopher might
“Find tongues in trees, books in the
running brooks,
Sermons in stones, and good in every thing.”
And all these
romantic associations are the more readily awakened and rendered
tangible, as it were, from the animating forms that are continually
flitting before the eye, as the sparkling fallow-deer, or the more
sober-coloured, but majestic royal red stag, with his herd of hinds,
are seen to glance along the sun-streaked sward, or to pass
leisurely amidst the shadows of the deeper recesses of the woodland.
To complete this description, which, however full in itself, must be
found miserably deficient in conveying any just idea of a place so
extensive, and where nature and art vie with each other, it is only
now necessary to add, that the grand castellated eastern gate gives
entrance to an open slope of grass among these fine trees ; whence
the road sweeps down amid the varied knolls and woods of the falling
ground last described, until it comes to a bridge leading over the
burn of Taymouth, at a point a little above its junction with the
Tay. Before it descends upon this bridge, a grand view is caught
between the intervening trees, of the level plain of the park—the
sweeping river—the castle, with its embracing groves—the whole
backed by the wide and lofty wooded front of Drummond hill. Having
crossed the bridge, the approach leads on in one grand sweep of
about a quarter of a mile, to the wide square of gravel in front of
the castle.
Above a thousand head of deer range through the grounds of Taymouth;
for, besides the red and fallow-deer in the extensive park, the
woods of Drummond hill abound with wild fallow-deer. Roedeer are
also most abundant, as are the smaller species of four-footed game.
The burly savage-looking bison is also to be met with; and the lama
herds with the sheep in the pastures. There are partridges and
pheasants in the more cultivated parts: grouse upon the
mountains;—and black game—and, above all, the capercailzie, (Core de
Bois,) once a native of Scotland. These various animals give a
peculiar wildness and animation to a walk at Taymouth. The last of
the aboriginal race of Scottish capercailzies was shot, nearly a
century ago, in the old fir woods belonging to Chisholm of Chisholm
in Strathglass, to the westward of Inverness. That the bird existed
at Taymouth in considerable abundance in the reign of Charles the
First, is proved by three very curious letters, addressed to Lord
Breadalbane’s ancestor, Sir Colin Campbell of Glenurquhy. One of
these is from the Lords of the Council, and the other two are from
the Provost and Magistrates of Edinburgh, all of them asking him to
send game for the great banquet that was to be given there to his
Majesty, “becaus the comoun mercatts cannot affoord sufficient
prouisionis in that behalf.” In that from the Magistrates, dated
“Edinbur ye 18 of May 1633,” and addressed “To the Rycht Honorable
and oure most loveing friend Sr Coline Campbell of Glenurquhy, Kng1,
Barronet,” they request that they “ may have some vennisone and
capercalyies frome row vpone our nixt adverteisement, quhen we ar
better ac-quented with his Mai dyett.” Their last letter on this
subject is dated
“Edinbur1, 12 Junii 1633,”—“ To the right honbl,‘ the Laird of
Glenurquhy.”
“Rycht Honorable Sr, oure eomendationes rcmcmbrit, Being confident
of youre willingnes for ye advancement of ye honor of ve kvng-dome,
and credite of yis burgh, now at his Ma' entrie, and hecaus we are
to prepairc ane Royall banquett for his Matie, qlk is now appointit
he his Maties awin directione to he upon ye xxiij day of Junij
Tnstand ; And as we wrett to yow of hcfoire, swa now againe We ar to
Intreat vow to send ws with ye berar twa dayis hefoir ye said
bancquett, Twa Vennisone of these that are most seasoinahle, aytlier
hairt, liynd, or dea, with some Caperkealzies, Heroinis, Termigantis,
or suche Lyik that ye think fittest for suche ane occasione.
Quhairin as ye sail do ws ane most singular plesr, so sail Me be
most willing to mak retributione of yor favor and kyndncs, As ye
sail have occasione to vse ws. Swa expectting yor favor heirin, We
Comitt yow to ye protectioun of ye almichtie, And sail ewer remayne,
your Lo\eing freindis and nichthor", The Provest and Baillies of
Edinbur1.—Al. Clark, provest; Johne Sinclair, Baillie ; William
Gray, Baillie ; Ja. Murray, Baillie ; George Baillie, baillie.”
The first attempt to re-introduce the capercailzie into Scotland was
made by the Earl of Fife at Mar Lodge in 1829, as noticed in the “
Account of the great Moray Floods” of that year, bv the author of
this work. But as nothing farther has been heard regarding it, the
probability is, that it finally proved abortive.
In 1837, the Marquess of Breadalbane procured twenty-eight birds of
this gigantic species of the grouse genus from Sweden, and fourteen
or fifteen more in 1838, and they have already multiplied to above
1000 head. The cock is nearly as large as a turkey, being about two
feet nine inches in length, and specimens have been found from
eleven to nineteen pounds in weight; the average, however, may be
fairly set at sixteen pounds. The bill is very strong, convex, and
of a horn colour; the eyes are hazel, the nostrils are small, and
almost hid under a covering of short feathers, which extend under
the throat, and are there much larger than the rest, and of a black
colour ; the head and neck are elegantly marked with small
transverse lines of black and grey, as are also the back and wings,
but more irregularly; the breast is black, richly glossed with green
on the upper part, and mixed with a few white feathers on the belly
and thighs; the sides are marked like the neck ; the tail consists
of eighteen black feathers, of which those on the sides are marked
with a few white spots ; the legs are very stout, and covered with
brown feathers ; the toes are furnished with a strong pectinated
membrane. The hen is considerably less than the male, and of the
average weight of ten pounds ; she differs from the cock greatly in
her colours. Her throat is red; the transverse bars on the head,
neck, and back, are red and black; the breast is of a pale orange
colour ; the belly is barred with orange and black, the top of each
feather being white. The back and wings are mottled with
reddish-brown and black; the scapulars are tipped with white, and
the tail is of a deep rust colour, barred with black, and tipped
with white.
Nothing can be more beautiful in nature than to behold the male
bird, strutting about with his tail erected, fan-fashion, like the
turkey-cock, with the sun shining on his lustrous neck, and giving
the fiery sparkle of the carbuncle to his eyes. Lord Breadalbane's
head keeper, Mr. Guthrie, found the young chicks most difficult to
rear, for when he tried to feed them like young pheasants, they all
died. At length, after considering that the chief food of the1 old
birds was the tender shoots of the Scottish firs and the larch, he
adopted a different mode with them. He put the hen mother into a
moveable crib, and set down the young ones on the ground outside of
it, nearer at first, and afterwards at some distance from it; and as
they made their way hack to the crib, he saw that they picked up
some minute objects, whether animalcukc or some vegetable matter he
could not say. In this way he succeeded perfectly in rearing and
turning out many of them, and they are now left in the fir woods, to
bring out their young and to rear them in the natural way. They make
their nests by scraping a little hollow among the dry fallen spines
at the root of a Scottish fir, and generally where some portion of a
broken branch accidentally covers the place, and there they lay
their eggs. They will multiply very fast wherever fir woods are
tolerably extensive, and where foxes are exterminated—but where
these abound, any attempt to introduce them would be hopeless, as
they seem to prefer the capercailzie to all other kinds of prey. Mr.
Guthrie says, that he had cleared the whole woods of foxes, but to
his great dismay he found no less than three capercailzie nests, at
different times, where the hen mother had been carried off, and the
young chicks, to use his own phrase, “ chackit, out o’ mere spite in
the beast.” After a good deal of thought, he became persuaded that
all this murder must have been committed by some fox from the hills
; and resolving to ascertain this, he cast about, like a North
American Indian looking for a trail, across and across the wood, in
the line leading from the spots where the nests were, towards the
open hill. At last he discovered the impression of the pads of his
marauding enemy, in a moist bit of bare ground, and noting their
direction, he proceeded to search carefully in the same way a-head,
till, after picking up a hint here, and a trace there, he with
uncommon patience tracked the fox fairly out to the hill, so as to
leave no doubt in his mind that he came thence. He now set out on a
different search, and hunted all over the neigdibourinsr farms, till
he procured a hen, having plumage somewhat resembling that of the
hen capercailzie, and having at last got one to his mind, he
proceeded to the hill, and availing himself of the side of a dry
bank of moss, lie threw up a rude low roof of brushwood, which
covered some two or three square yards of area, like a penthouse. In
the midst of this he drove a stake about two feet high, and attached
a cord and a swivel to the top of it, and tied the fowl to it,
leaving but two entrances in the direction of the track of the fox,
and concealing a powerful trap in each. Next morning he had the
satisfaction of finding the caitiff taken.
The capercailzie is now fairly re-introduced into Scotland, so far
at least as Taymouth is concerned, and if foxes were kept down, they
would soon multiply and spread all over the country, having already
been shot in Athole and in Stratherne. But the most curious
circumstance is, that Mr. Guthrie has repeatedly seen birds,
decidedly the production of a cross between the capercailzie and
black game, though as yet he cannot say for certain that he has
known these to breed again. One of these, shot at Dunira, is now to
be seen stuffed in Edinburgh. This bird occurs frequently in Norway
and Sweden, being called by foreign naturalists Tetruo fttedius,
that is, the middle or intermediate grouse, so named from its
exhibiting a combination of the characters of the Tetruo uro-galtns,
or capercailzie, and the Tetrao tetrix, or black game. It is nowhere
met with, except in countries where both these species are found
together, and as none of this peculiar species were introduced among
the live specimens brought by Lord Breadalbane from Sweden, it is
now quite proved that the bird is a hybrid, seeing that, so far as
this country is concerned, it must have been produced by a cross
betwixt the capercailzie and black game. The mixture of the two
parent birds is very remarkable—the feathers in the tail partaking
somewhat, though not altogether, of the curve in those of the tail
of the black-cock. The weight of this description of bird is from
eight to nine pounds. "
The entrance to Taymouth Castle is by a vaulted Gothic corridor,
ornamented with an immense number of very fine stag’s heads and
ancient arms. To right and left of this there are two large waiting
rooms. The corridor leads directly into the grand staircase,
contained in the great central square tower, the whole height of
which is upwards of eighty feet. The floor, from which the stair
starts, is covered with curiosities, stuffed animals, and figures of
men in armour, and various kinds of weapons of the most ancient
description are hung up or lean against the walls. The stair rises
in one broad flight, and then divides into two, both landing on the
level of the second story, and lea\ mg all above quite unencumbered.
The walls are stone, richly relieved with canopied Gothic recesses
and tracery, having shields bearing arms, crests, and devices,
interspersed. Slender Gothic columns rise the entire height of the
tower, and branch out over the roof in rich fans of Gothic tracery,
the whole being lighted at top by one large window on each of the
four sides, filled with stained glass. The look upwards is
magnificent.
To describe, in the first place, that suite of public apartments
running around the central tower, the Ante-room, or Print-room, as
it is sometimes called, is that first requiring notice, as entering
directly from the landing-place. The ceiling is oak, lightly
relieved with gold—the walls arc covered with scarlet cloth, and
hung with pictures. Turning to the right from this room, there is an
entrance to the Baron’s Hall, which is the banquetting-room. This is
53 feet long by 28 feet 3 inches wide, and 19 feet 4 inches high.
The ceiling is vaulted, and done in imitation of stone, richly
relieved with moulded Gothic tracery. The chimney-piece is
large,—and cut out of stone, in the style of a rich Gothic canopy.
The walls arc hung with a paper of a crimson ground, having on it a
drab flock resembling tapestry. The Dado is high, and composed of
dark oak, great part of it of the finest old German Gothic carving,
with shields, figures of birds, and other ornaments, the
deficiencies being supplied by modern work, so well done as not to
be discovered from the original. At the western end of this most
magnificent apartment, there is an immense Gothic sideboard of
beautifully carved oak, underneath which stands one of the most
gorgeous cellarets that can possibly he conceived—of very great
size—its sides composed each of one piece of exquisitely rich old
German carved oak, united together down the angles, and around the
bottom and top by the most massive and elaborately chased solid
silver bands,—the lid being similarly bound, and the whole supported
on boar’s heads— the family crest—all of massive and solid
silver,—in which the arms and supporters are also very admirably
executed. Along the northern wall are arranged three large carved
Gothic oak buffets, lined with crimson velvet. The window curtains
are of crimson Genoa velvet, with cut vallances, and cornices of
carved oak, partly gilt. At the western end of the hall is a most
gorgeous Gothic window, filled with stained glass of the richest
description, containing full length figures of the old Knights of
Glenurquhy, from Sir Colin Campbell, of the year 1400, downwards,
arranged in genealogical order, and exhibiting a most beautiful and
interesting emblazonment of the various family bearings. This
magnificent hall, besides other pictures, contains that very fine
work of Rubens, “The Head of John the Baptist brought to Herod.” Let
this hall only be imagined, with its table, its sideboard, and all
the shelves of its large beaufets, piled up with the most gorgeous
silver and gold plate, some of the pieces of which were extremely
old and curious, and the whole illumined with a blaze of light, and
the Gothic window lighted from without, and then let it be animated
with the figures of the Queen of Great Britain, Prince Albert, and
the distinguished persons w’ho sat with them, and with the richly
liveried and garbed attendants wrho went about the room, and then
sonic faint idea may be formed of what the Royal banquet was at
Taymouth.
Leaving the Baron’s Hall by its north-eastern angle, there is a
passage through a circular apartment in a tower into the
breakfast-room, an apartment of quiet appearance, 37 feet long by 2G
feet wide, and 19 feet 5 inches high. The ceiling is arched in
Gothic oak, with light ribbed mouldings. The walls are a subdued
green, and the window curtains of scarlet cloth. At one end there is
a grand picture by Salvator Rosa, and on one of the walls, there is
a very curious portrait of “the Bonny Earl of Moray,” who was
murdered at Donibristle, very interesting to antiquaries, in re-o-ard
to its Highland costume. From the south-western corner, a passage
through a beautiful little ante-room leads into the Drawing Rooms,
two magnificent apartments, 72 feet in length by 25 feet in breadth,
and 19 feet 4 inches high, having their windows facing the south.
These arc altogether of a lighter character, the general unity in
the antiquity of the whole being sustained rather by the style of
the decorations, than by the heaviness of their interior
architecture. The ceilings were all designed by Mr. Crase, of
Wig-more-street, London, who undertook the execution of the
decorations of the interior of these rooms and the Grand Hall, and
who employed foreign as well as British artists in carrying out his
designs. The ceilings of these two drawing-rooms, then, are painted
in the style of the illumination of the manuscripts of the
fourteenth century, in Gothic arabesque of tbe richest character of
ornament, partly on gold grounds, and introducing armorial bearings,
and figures, relating to the history of the Breadalbane family. At
the eastern end of the larger drawing-room there is a recess, the
ceiling of which is covered with tracery, all richly gilt, and the
ground silvered, with a light ornament in ultramarine blue painted
on it—the centre pendants in each room, the small pendants in the
large, and the Gothic tracery fans in the ceiling of the small room
being done in the same manner. The walls are hung with green and
gold, of a quiet and subdued tint, forming a fine ground for the
display of a choice collection of pictures, among which are the
Nativity, by Murillo, the Lucretia, by Guido, two splendid
full-length portraits by Vandyke, of Richard Earl of Warwick, and
the first Earl of Breadalbane. The folding-doors between the two
rooms are of satin wood, and the canopy and framed work are carved
in rich florid Gothic, with foliage, tracery, and niches, under
which are supporters bearing shields, resting on ornamented columns.
The whole is finished of a vellum tint, richly gilt. The smaller
doors are also of satin wood, and with frames of a similar style,
though less elaborate. The window shutters and other parts of the
wood work are of the same vellum tint and gold. The curtains are of
a superb brocade silk of flowers and maroon ornament on a gold
ground, and their cornices are rich Gothic, according with the
canopied door frames. There are two very beautiful buhl cabinets in
the larger dining-room, of ebony, inlaid with tortoise-shell and or
molu, and some of the tables are extremely rich. The carpets, of
great originality of design, are the produce of the tapestry looms
of Aubusson. A rich specimen of gold tapestry forms a portiere to
the centre folding-door. Immediately off the recess, at the end of
the large drawing-room, is a circular boudoir, in the south-eastern
round tower, hung with fluted green silk, containing a most
interesting collection of large miniature portraits of the
sovereigns of the royal families of Scotland, from the Bruce to the
present time.
At the south-western angle of the smaller drawing-room, is another
circular apartment, formed in the tower there, containing a curious
and interesting family tree, painted by Jameson, the Scottish
Vandyke, uith the portraits of the successive barons introduced. The
walls are hung with a paper in imitation of gilt leather, and they
are covered with large miniature portraits of the distinguished
characters of British history. This room forms a vestibule to the
Grand Hall, a magnificent Gothic apartment, of truly baronial
character, 44 feet 9 inches long, by 27 feet 10 inches wide, and 26
feet 4 inches high. The vaulted ceiling is divided into ninety
compartments, by massive oaken moulded ribs, partly gilt. In each is
painted an heraldic emblazonment, containing a shield surrounded by
foliage, and vellum scrolls, giving the names belonging to the arms,
thus illustrating the descents and alliances of the house of
Breadalbane. On the one side is its descent from the blood royal of
Scotland through the Stuarts, and its alliances through the lines of
Lochow and Glenurquhy from the twelfth century, and on the other
side that from the blood royal of England, through the Black Knight
of Lorne, who married Queen Jane Beaufort,—its descent from the
Lords of Lorne and the Lords of the Isles,— and the alliances of the
house of Lauderdale. At either corner of the southern end of the
hall, are screens exquisitely carved into the most delicate pervious
Gothic work, from the door-wa}*s of which are hung tapestry
cartoons, of rich colours and gold. The Dado is of oak, elaborately
ornamented. The chimney-piece is very large, and entirely formed of
a greyish stone, most delicately and beautifully carved in Gothic
ornaments, with niches, and golden figures of knights in armour. On
the walls, which are simply stone, arc arranged demi-suits of armour,
shields, lances, two-handed swords, and various other curious
specimens of ancient weapons ; and above these, and immediately
under each arch where the ceiling meets the lofty walls, are hung
the silken banners of the Queen, Prince Albert, and all those of the
principal nobility who were present at Taymouth on the late
occasion. There is one very large Gothic mullioned window at each
end, filled with rich stained glass of ancient German manufacture of
a very fine description, the deficiencies being made up by modern
work, so well executed as to be in perfect keeping with the old.
Passing through the Gothic screen in the south-western angle of the
Hall, the entrance to the Gallery is guarded by some human figures
carved in wood, of the full size, and of the most perfect foreign
workmanship, — very old, and representing the religious Reformers in
purgatory. The Gallery runs west from the Hall,—is 54 feet long,—and
receives a quiet subdued light from one large window at its western
extremity. The ceiling is oak, divided into square pannels by
moulded ribs, the walls are covered with a tapestry paper, of a
Morisco pattern, in which crimson and gold give an excessive degree
of richness to the more sober colours with which they are
associated. On the walls are hung a series of portraits of the old
lords of Glenurquhy. Fine old carved cabinets are ranged along some
parts of the sides, and between them very choice Etruscan vases are
placed 011 pedestals. The window affords a passage directlv into the
lawn, by means of an external iron staircase. The curtains are of
crimson velvet, and the carpet of simple imitation oak. Near its
western end, the Gallery opens on its southern side in three tall
Gothic archways, giving entrance beneath rich draperies to that
which may be considered the gem of the castle—the Library. This
apartment, 42s feet long by 19 feet wide, and 17 feet high, is
ornamented in the most elaborate Gothic style, from the well-known
Crosby Hall in London, the vaulted ceiling being divided into
compartments by rich pendant ribs, and subdivided into pannels of
ornamental tracery. The carved posts are in oak, relieved with gold,
and the intervening ground is laid in ultramarine blue. There are
two beautiful perforated carved screens at the southern end of the
room, and the windows are of rich stained glass. The books are
arranged in carved oak book-cases, and these, with the two screens,
and the grand chimney, executed in grey stone, present most
successful examples of Gothic work. These public rooms of Taymouth
Castle, and especially the Gallery and the Library, are exquisitely
beautiful, and exhibit the finest possible taste in their
decoration. The architectural pai't of the decoration is the work of
Mr. Gillespie Graham of Orchill, and the paintings and other
ornaments of that description, were all designed by Mr. Crase. They
remind one more of the glories of the Alhambra Palace, when Spain
was under the Moorish dominion, than any thing else that one can
fancy. From the Library there is a passage through a concealed door
into the Tapestry Chambers—two rooms fitted up with Beauvais
tapestry, of great beauty. The subjects represented, are admirably
designed, as well as executed with all the softness, richness, and
freshness of painting. They are arranged in pannels, having stiles
of polished satin wood. The ceilings are divided into pannels, in
which is a gold me lie ornament, on a light buff ground, introducing
crests and Breadalbane initials, with oak stiles and enriched
cornices relieved with gold. The windows and shutters are of massive
oak, with draperied pannelling, and on the doors are also introduced
carvings and inlaid ornaments. The hangings to these rooms are silk
brocade, of crimson laid on a bronze green ground, arranged with
rich vallances and carved oak cornices. The furniture is of walnut
wood, some of it elaborately carved, and the carpets are of rich
Arabesque design of the style of the 15th century. Over the doors
arc placed pictures of some of the Breadalbane family. Regarding
these princely apartments of Taymouth Castle, it may be well said
that whilst every one of them, taken separately, is perfectly
harmonious in itself, a general harmony runs throughout the whole of
them, that makes them perfectly charming.
The Gallery and the Library formed the Queen’s private sitting
apartments. The Queen’s boudoir, dressing-room, bed-room, and Prince
Albert’s dressing-room, were en suite entering immediately from the
northern side of the gallery. These are known by the name of the
Chinese Rooms, from the fine China paper with which they are hung.
The bed-room is large, lofty, and beautiful. The state-bed is in the
old French style, framed of satin wood, enriched with highly
finished carved mouldings and ornaments richly gilt. The pillars are
twisted, and entwined with wreaths of the rose, thistle, and
shamrock, and each supports the coronet of a marquess. The canopy is
twelve feet in height, of an oval form, and splendidly carved and
gilt. The drapery is of the richest white satin, lined with
peach-blossom silk, and trimmed with deep gold bullion fringe. The
tester is of silver tissue, uith beautiful antique perforated and
richly gilt carving laid over it, with the imperial crown and the
Queen's cipher in the centre, and the coronets of all the various
degrees diverging from it. The counterpane is of the same rich satin
lining, and gold edging, and the mattresses, bolsters, and pillows,
are covered with the same. Her Majesty never uses a feather bed. The
sheets are of the finest linen, and the blankets of beautiful white
cassimere, finished with white satin. Such is the detailed
description of the bed—but it is quite impossible to convey any just
idea of the chastity and elegance of its general effect. The
toilette table is covered with white satin, finished with gold rope
and tassels, with fine lace thrown over it. On the toilette is a
hand mirror, of an oval form, and of exquisite beauty and
workmanship. The border is of fine gold, friezed, and studded with
large Scottish pearls found at Taymouth, the handle and top are made
of large and perfect topaz-yellow cairngorms, and the uhole is
surmounted with Lord Breadalbane’s coronet and crest, wrought in
fine gold. This exquisite bijou was executed by Messrs. Mackay and
Cunningham of Edinburgh. The sitting room is fitted up with
beautiful green silk damask hangings, with ottomans, inlaid tables,
and every thing necessary to the comfort of the occupant. The
dressing-rooms are in a similar style of refinement. These
apartments were furnished by Mr. Trotter of Edinburgh, who also
executed the whole of the oak carvings, done to complete the antique
specimens already noticed in the Great Hall, the Library, the doors
and dado of the Baron’s Hall, doing credit to him as well as to Mr.
Gillespie Graham, who designed their arrangement. As a stair led
from the Queen’s apartments to those of the Duchess of Norfolk,
directly above, and as those of the dressers were below, Her Majesty
had thus a little private palace of her own, altogether detached and
shut off from the rest of the castle; and she had it always in her
power to go out to walk by the window at the end of the Gallery, and
the iron stair leading directly down to the lawn. |