Werxes himself, in
all his pride, pomp, and pageantry, when receiving the slavish
adulation of millions, could have had but small gratification,
compared with that reaped by Queen Victoria from the honest and
enthusiastic, though simple, greetings of her Scottish subjects.
Fatigued by the exertions and excitement of that day, and filled as
she must have been by the consciousness of possessing the combined
love of a whole people, the Queen’s slumbers must have been sweet,
and it may well be imagined that Sunday was indeed to her a day of
rest. Her Majesty, however, was out with the Prince by nine o’clock,
and having taken their way along the terraces, they crossed the
bridge to the eastward of the palace, and then winding along some
beautiful shady walks, through a wood of tall beeches and other
trees, there clothing the whole northern banks of the river, they
found out the new kitchen garden, recently constructed under the
direction of Mr. Macintosh, whom the Queen had known as gardener to
King Leopold at Claremont, and whom Her Majesty, with great
condescension, immediately recognised as an old acquaintance. The
garden contains about twenty imperial acres, five of which are
within the inner wall. From a terrace on the western side, a very
picturesque view of the town of Dalkeith, and the valley of the
North Esk, is enjoyed. Returning by a different way through the same
wood, where the sylvan roof of foliage is supported at a great
height overhead, by the clear and columnar stems of the timber, the
Queen and the Prince inquired of Macintosh, whether they could get
directly across to the palace without retracing their steps.
Macintosh told Her Majesty, that there was a temporary bridge, of
the two planks wide, laid upon trestles, for the convenience of some
workmen employed in making a new walk through the shrubbery on the
south bank of the river, but that it was by no means a fit passage
for Her Majesty. The Queen, however, thought otherwise, for,
proceeding directly to the planks, she crossed them without the
least hesitation, and returned to the palace by the new walk. A
rake, over which Her Majesty stepped as it lay in her way, was
afterwards scrambled for, and it has been since carefully preserved
as a sacred relic by the person to whose lot it happily chanced to
fall.
The Queen and Prince Albert had prayers read by the Reverend Edward
Ramsay, of St. John’s episcopal chapel, Edinburgh, who afterwards
preached from the latter part of the 9th verse of the xl. chapter of
Isaiah, “Say unto the cities of Judah, Behold your God.” For this
purpose a temporary pulpit was fitted up in the dining-room.
Late in the afternoon the Duchess of Buccleuch drove Her Majesty
through the park in her pony phaeton, unaccompanied by any of her
suite, or even by a single royal servant. Prince Albert, the Duke of
Buccleuch, and Colonel Bouverie, rode along with Her Majesty. In
this private manner the Queen passed out of the park by the grass
drive, leading by those pretty Gothic buildings the colliers’ houses
and the agent’s residence. Passing by the Kennel, the Duke showed
the Queen his pack of hounds; after which they took the grass drive,
and a private way into the grounds of Newbattle Abbey, the seat of
the Marquis of Lothian. Quitting the carriage at the house, which is
at present unoccupied, the Royal party walked over the pleasure
grounds, visiting a newer green-house erected for the Marchioness of
Lothian. Her Majesty and the Prince were much surprised by the
magnitude of a tree that arrested their attention in front of the
house. The grounds, embracing the wooded banks on both sides of the
North Esk, as well as the level lawn in the bottom of its Men, are
extremely beautiful, and the timber is of a size and antiquity of
growth rarely equalled even in England. The modern house stands on
the site of the ancient abbey of Cistercian monks, founded by David
I., and the library possesses some curious illuminated manuscripts
which belonged to them. The Queen next proceeded to Dalhousie
Castle, situated on a most picturesque part of the same river, a
little way higher up. There the fine timber, the rocks, and the
sparkling stream, produce a thousand home scenes of romantic beauty
and interest.
Sir Walter Scott used to say, that he believed Dalhousie Castle to
be the oldest inhabited house in Scotland; and that he was quite
certain that it was the oldest house in Scotland still inhabited by
the same family by which it was originally built. It appears to have
been erected by William Ramsay de Dalwolsey, towards the end of the
thirteenth century. The son of this Baron was the celebrated
Alexander Ramsay, who, at the time of the invasion of Scotland by
Edward III., took refuge in the eaves of Hawthornden, whence he and
his select band sallied forth in perpetual war on the English.
Having taken the fortress of Roxburgh by escalade, on the 20th March
1342, David II. injudiciously rewarded him with the office of
Sheriff of Teviotdale, then held by William Douglas, the celebrated
knight of Liddesdale. From that moment Douglas was converted from
the warmest friend to the most deadly foe of Ramsay. Coming suddenly
upon him with a strong force whilst holding a court in the church at
Hawick, he dragged him from the chair of justice, and carried him
off to his castle of Hermitage, in Liddesdale, where he threw him,
together with his horse furniture, into a dungeon, where, after
having prolonged his miserable existence for some time by the grains
of corn that accidentally dropped through a hole from a granary
above, he was at last starved to death. About fifty years ago, a
mason employed in building in the neighbourhood, having made an
opening, into which curiosity induced him to descend by a ladder, he
discovered a vault about eight feet square, in which he found some
human bones, with a saddle, a bridle, and a sword, together with a
considerable quantity of the husks of corn. The heavy bit of the
bridle was presented by Sir Walter Scott to the late Lord Dalhousie,
and is now carefully preserved by the present Earl. There is a very
rude and ancient coat of arms above the door of Dalhousie Castle, in
every respect so precisely of the same character and style as a seal
appended to a charter from the Laird of Dalwolsey to the monks of
Newhattle in 1370, as to leave no doubt that the seal was cut from
the stone. The castle was unsuccessfully besieged in 1400, by Henry
IV. as he returned into England after an ineffectual campaign, the
last ever led against Scotland by a King of England in person. The
castle originally consisted of four lofty battlemented walls,
defended at the north angle by a heavy round tower, and enclosing a
large space, in the centre of which stood a massive keep, the whole
being surrounded by a ditch, except where the bank was precipitous.
Various additions have been made to it at different times within the
walls, and some of those were not in the best taste; but the late
Earl of Dalhousie employed Mr. Burn, who succeeded in restoring it,
as much as possible, to its original external appearance, with the
introduction of modern windows, and modern comforts within doors.
Just below the castle, and near the edge of a beautiful spring,
stands an old oak, called the Edgewell Tree, which has a story
attached to it. A superstitious belief has been handed down for
ages, and most religiously credited by the people of the country,
that upon this tree hang the fate and fortunes of the Dalhousie
family. The loss or fracture of any of its limbs has been always
regarded as ominous of coming evil; and if the tree itself were
utterly destroyed, the extinction both of the castle and the family
would be expected inevitably to follow. Tradition says, that just
before the death of one of the Earls, and when the fortunes of the
family were fast sinking to their lowest ebb, a great storm broke
and overwhelmed the old trunk. The celebrated poet, Allan Ramsay, in
the beginning of the last century, mentions the popular tradition in
one of his notes, and confirms the fact of the tree having been once
blow n down, and then he goes on to show that the omen of utter
destruction had been already averted by the growth of a young scion,
which had immediately sprung up from the root of the old stock,
which honest Allan says “is now tall and flourishing,” and then he
adds the wish, “Lang be it sae,”—in which all must cordially join
who are acquainted with the history of a family which has for so
many generations been an honour to Scotland.
The Queen entered the castle to visit Lord and Lady Dalhousie, and
very much admired the good taste displayed in it, and was greatly
interested by an inspection of the trophies brought by the late Lord
Dalhousie from India. After having remained with them for some time,
the Queen returned to Dalkeith Palace. The Royal dinner party to-day
consisted of—
The Queen and Prince Albert,
The Duke and Duchess of Bucclench,
The Duchess of Norfolk,
The Earl and Countess of Cawdor,
The Earl of Morton,
The Earl of Aberdeen,
The Earl of Liverpool,
Lord Adolphus Fitzclarence,
Sir Robert Peel,
The Hon. Miss Paget,
Lord and Lady John Scott,
Mr. and Lady Georgina Balfour,
Mr. George Edward Anson,
General Wemyss,
Colonel Bouverie,
Sir James Clark.
Captain Osborne,
Captain Wood,
Mr. Ramsay.
Monday, the 5th of September, was the day fixed by Her Majesty for
receiving the nobility and others who were desirous of being
presented. For days previously, very various and very different were
the opinions given as to the mode in which the Reception was to be
conducted, as well as regarding the style of dress that was to be
worn. But all these doubts had been set at rest by the following
publication, in the Gazette of Saturday the 27th of August. At this
time it was contemplated that the Reception would take place at
Holyrood on Friday the 2d of September.
“The ceremony of the Reception by Her Majesty at the Palace of
Holyrood.
“St. James’ Palace, August 25, I842.
“The Queen will receive those ladies and gentlemen, who may be
desirous of paving their respects to Her Majesty, at the Palace of
Holyrood House, on Friday the 2d of September next, at two o’clock.
Ladies may appear without trains or feathers. Gentlemen in levee
dress. The ladies and gentlemen who purpose attending this
Reception, are requested to bring with them two cards, with their
names legibly written thereon, one to be left with the Queen’s Page
in attendance in the ante-room, and the other to he delivered to the
Lord in Waiting, who will announce the name to Her Majesty. And
those ladies who are to be presented, are hereby informed it is
absolutely necessary that their names, together with the names of
the ladies who are to present them, should be sent to Sir William
Martin, at the Royal Hotel, Edinburgh, before two o’clock on Tuesday
the 30th; and those gentlemen who are to be presented, will also
send to Sir William Martin their names, together with the names of
the gentlemen who are to present them, in order that they may be
submitted for the Queen’s approbation, it being Her Majesty’s
command, that no presentation shall take place, unless the name of
the lady or gentleman presenting, together with that of the lady or
gentleman to be presented, shall appear on the card to be delivered,
as before directed, corresponding with the names sent in to Sir
William Martin.”
The Gazette of Wednesday the 31st of August, contained the following
:—
“The Lord Chamberlain’s Department, 30th August 1842.
“Notice is hereby given, that the ladies and gentlemen to be
presented to Her Majesty, at the Reception to take place at the
Palace of Holyrood on Friday next, are not to wear a glove on the
right hand when presented.
“Regulations for the carriages of those who attend the Reception of
Her Majesty at the Palace of Holyrood, on Friday the 2d of September
next:—
“The Entree.
“It is ordered,
“The carriages of those having the privilege of the Entree, are to
proceed by the Canongate, set down at the principal entrance of the
Palace, and then draw up in front of the Palace. In leaving the
Palace, the carriages are to take up at the principal entrance, and
drive off by the Canongate.
“The General Company.
“The carriages are to proceed by the Regent-road, enter by the
northern approach, and set down at the door on the north side of the
Palace ; then proceed on to the Queen’s-park, and wait. Upon being
called, the carriages are to take up at the gate on the south side
of the Palace, and drive off by the south road.
“Tickets
for the carriages of those having the Entree, will be delivered at
my chambers, No. 17, Nelson-street, on Thursday next, between eleven
and three o’clock.
“The doors will be opened at one o’clock.
“ROB. RUTHERFORD, D. K. of Holyrood.
Palace. of Holyiiood, August 30, 1842.”
The unfortunate alarm of fever which occasioned the desertion of
Holyrood upon this occasion, was much deplored by all patriotic
Scotsmen, and by no one was the sad necessity more regretted than by
the Queen herself, as Her Majesty had an especial wish to have held
her drawing-room in the ancient halls of her Royal ancestors. None
of the Royal residences possesses a suite of apartments more
perfectly adapted for such a purpose, and these had been all fitted
up for the occasion. The walls of the throne room were hung with
crimson damask, surrounded by a broad moulding of gold. The carpet
was a rich crimson—and the whole public rooms, as well as those
intended for the private use of the Queen and Prince Albert, were
gorgeously furnished. Those of the entree were to have been admitted
at the grand entrance, and the general company were to have been set
down at the north side of the building, to enter under a newly
erected vestibule, and so to have been ushered up stairs into the
grand gallery, 147 feet long, by 45 feet wide, whence a regular
stream of company might have been kept flowing on through a
succession of five large rooms into the presence chamber, 63 feet in
length, where those to be presented would have entered by a door in
one angle opposite to the throne, afterwards to retire by the door
in the other angle of the same end of the room. By this arrangement
the whole ceremonial of presentation at Holyrood would have been
magnificent. Even the Muse sighed forth the plaint of the venerable
Palace itself, in a poetical epistle to the Duke of Hamilton.1 As,
however, it was now fixed to take place at Dalkeith Palace, a notice
dated the 5th of September was issued, that no persons nor carriages
would be admitted into Dalkeith Park on that day, but those going to
the Reception at the Palace.
In the meanwhile, preparations were going on with great activity,
under the direction of Mr. Burn architect, who covered in the whole
of the square area embraced within the front, and the projection of
the two wings, by means of a wooden erection and awning, so as to
convert it into one great vestibule. The early sound of hammers
annoyed the Duke of Buccleuch very much, as he was afraid it might
have disturbed the Queen. About eight o’clock, horses were at the
door to convey Prince Albert, Colonel Bouverie, and Mr. Anson to
Edinburgh, and as His Royal Highness came out to mount, the Duke
expressed his anxious regret that Her Majesty should have been
subjected to so much noise. The Prince assured his Grace that the
Queen had not been disturbed; and observing what had been done, he
said, “Ah! this will do very well.”
Exactly at nine o’clock, Prince Albert rode into the court-yard of
the University, where he was received by the very Rev. Principal
Lee, and Professors Bell and Traill. In the absence of Professor
Jameson, of the Natural History class, whose apology of
indisposition was tendered by his nephew, Mr. Laurence Jameson,
Professor Traill conducted His Royal Highness through the museum of
that department. The professor was surprised with the extent and
accuracy of the Prince’s knowledge of the various branches of
natural history, especially in the department of ornithology, and he
could not help saying so; upon which His Royal Highness informed him
that he had employed himself for some years in making a complete
collection of European birds, and that he had studied practical
ornithology in Switzerland, and various other parts of Europe. The
learned professor had not long the honour of enjoying the Prince’s
conversation, until he discovered that his Royal Highness was
exceedingly well read on most other subjects, and that he had never
met with one among our nobility or gentry, who, at so early a period
of life, had acquired so much general information.
Having received the Prince at the door of the museum, Dr. Traill
first conducted him into the lower saloon, appropriated to the
specimens of mammalia, and the large animals. The Prince first
noticed the fine specimen of the wild ox of Scotland, presented
lately to the museum by the Duke of Hamilton. He said that he was
aware that it was not only to be found in Scotland, at Hamilton, but
that it also existed in Chillingham Park, in England. He made some
remarks on the numerous specimens of the feline tribe, and of that
of antelopes and deer, and was particularly interested by the huge
American elk, and the wild sheep of the Rocky Mountains. On seeing
the fine specimen of the fossil elk, he particularly inquired as to
its locality, the soil and depth at which it was buried, and
appeared struck with the enormous size of its antlers. Some of the
cetacea, also, interested him much, especially the walrus, the
beluga, and the dugong of the eastern seas. The Port-beagle and
Beaumaris sharks, attracted his attention. He asked if they were
frequent on the coasts of Scotland, and observed how formidable
their teeth must prove to fishermen and sailors where they abound.
On noticing the different species of delphinus, he remarked how
often navigators, and even naturalists, had confounded the common
porpoise with the dolphin of the ancients, and pointed out how they
could always be immediately distinguished. In the same room lie
noticed the polar and grisly bears, and appeared much interested
with the bones of the great fossil whale, found on Lord Abercromby’s
estate of Airthrey, near Stirling, and particularly inquired how far
the spot was from the present sea, and also by what soil, and at
what depth, it had been buried.
When His Royal Highness entered the upper saloon, it was obvious
that ornithology was his favourite branch of natural history. He
astonished Professor Traill by his familiarity with the rarest
specimens in the collection, and with the best writers on the
subject. He showed that he had studied the merits of the different
systems, and he seemed pleased to find the collection arranged and
named according to the system of Cuvier. He expressed himself so as
to prove that he was well aware of the injury done to natural
history by the inordinate desire which exists for the creation of
new genera, from trifling distinctions in character, as well as of
that which arises from the obstinate resistance of some naturalists
to all change. He spoke of various ornithological works, with the
familiarity of an accomplished naturalist, and while examining the
Indian birds, he passed a high encomium on the delineations of
Gould. The Prince asked if Edinburgh possessed a separate collection
of British birds, and highly applauded the utility of such local
Faunae.
When the Prince cast his eyes on the beautiful collection of
minerals in the centre of this saloon, he particularly inquired into
its history. Dr. Traill informed His Royal Highness, that almost the
whole of the oryctognostic collection had been the private cabinet
of Professor Jameson. “Indeed,” added Dr. Traill, “although the
Senatus Academicus may be said to have laid the foundation of this
noble museum, by purchasing for £3000 the collections of Dufresne of
Paris, consisting chiefly of birds and shells, the present
perfection of the whole collection of natural history was chiefly
owing to the zeal and munificence of Professor Jameson, who had made
large sacrifices of time and money to form a museum worthy of the
University.”
While inspecting the grouse family, the Prince stated his conviction
that the reported discovery of the red grouse in some of the
Scandinavian isles, was owing to the young of an allied species
being mistaken for it, and that his own researches had led him to be
of the opinion of Linnaeus, that this bird is a species peculiar to
the British isles. He asked if the wood grouse or capercailzie had
really been extinct in Scotland, until the late importations of the
bird by the Marquess of Breadalbane. He mentioned that he had shot
it on the continent. In passing through this saloon he praised the
collection of corvidae, cuckoos, kingsfishers, colibri, certhiadae,
paradised, and pigeons. Among the latter he pointed out a
bronze-winged species, which was then living- at Windsor. He asked
if the museum yet possessed a specimen of the great African
kingsfisher, a recent discovery, and before his attendant had time
to point it out, he stooped down to examine the case, and singled it
out as one of the rarities of the collection. The Prince was quite
aware of the fact, that humming birds, and similar general usually
supposed to frequent flowers for their honey, really devour the
insects in the nectaries of plants. The magnificent specimen of the
quelzal was not new to him, and he was quite familiar with its
habits and history. He took especial interest in the room
appropriated to British birds. Among other remarks here, he stated,
that the young of the great northern diver is often seen on the
lakes of Germany—the adult birds never. He considered the two
British spotted woodpeckers as perfectly distinct species. On
noticing the great bustard, he described the chase of the bird by
greyhounds, the creature being unable to rise till the breeze
produced by the rapidity of its movements aids the power of its
wings. He said, that from all he could learn, the great bustard must
now be considered as lost to the British Fauna.
In the room containing the models of mountains, the Prince was so
obliging as to point out to Dr. Traill the path by which he had
ascended to the Mer-de-Glace and the Jardin, which he described as
exceedingly fatiguing. He said that the state of the weather had
prevented his attempting the ascent of Mont Blanc, and that in his
opinion, the sublimest views w-ere not obtained from the towering
summits, but in the recesses of the Allee blanche, and where the
Alps impend over Italy. His Royal Highness showed his great
familiarity with Alpine sublimities, of which he spoke with
animating enthusiasm. Before leaving the western museum, he entered
the lecture-room of Professor Jameson, and examined with interest
the delineations of icebergs, which were hung up for illustration of
the glacial theory.
Before visiting the eastern museum, the Prince was introduced into
the Library, and expressed his admiration of its noble hall, 190
feet in length, certainly one of the most beautiful galleries in
Europe. Principal Lee conducted His Royal Highness into the small
room containing the curious library, bequeathed to the College by
Drummond the poet of Hawthornden. The few old MSS. possessed by the
University, and the splendid Koran that once belonged to Tippoo Saib,
were examined by him with interest. On a table in that room lies the
original protest of the German Princes and nobles against the
execution of John Huss, with its old seals still appended. Dr.
Traill took the liberty of remarking, that perhaps His Royal
Highness might find some of his own illustrious ancestors among
those noble assertors of liberty of conscience. “That is not
probable,” replied the Prince, “because I see that it has been
chiefly signed by the nobles of Bohemia.” The Prince was also
pleased to examine the small but choice collection of pictures,
bequeathed to the University by the late Sir David Erskine of Torry.
While walking through the Library, Dr. Traill took the liberty of
expressing a hope that Her Majesty the Queen had not suffered from
her gracious wish to gratify her loyal subjects, in her recent
progress through her ancient Scottish capital, and its port of Leith.
“Not at all,” replied His Royal Highness; “Her Majesty has been
exceedingly gratified by the demonstrations of attachment and
loyalty with which her presence has been hailed by the Scottish
nation.”
The Prince was then conducted to the eastern museum over the College
gates. This consists of a series of small rooms, containing
collections of fishes and serpents, in spirits, and a series of
skeletons of animals; with fossil bones from various European
localities, especially from Austria, many from America, and a fine
series from the foot of the Himalaya range. The attention of His
Royal Highness was arrested by the vast fossil remains of elephants,
but particularly by the yet unique specimens of the Sivatherium. He
also viewed with interest the very curious collection of skulls of
different nations; among which the crania of the negro race, with
their low facial angle, the broad head of the Mongolian, the narrow
forehead of the Malay, and the flattened skulls of the North
American Indians, were particularly noticed. One of the latter, from
the western coast, appeared almost compressed into a horizontal
cake. His Royal Highness drew comparisons between this collection
and that of the celebrated Blumen-baeh, with which he appeared to be
well acquainted.
The Prince finally inspected the museum intended for illustration of
the agricultural lectures of Professor Low. He highly commended the
curious collection of models of farm-yards, implements of husbandry,
mills, and portraits of the different races of domestic animals, and
he expressed great approbation of this method of giving effect to
the professorial prelections on a subject of this description, by
those excellent substitutes for the realities, as well as by the
numerous specimens of soils, seeds, and dried specimens.
The College gates had been kept locked to prevent intrusion, but a
vast assemblage of people had collected in the street. As the Prince
mounted his horse, he asked Dr. Traill with a smile, “How am I to
get through so great a crowd?" Dr. Traill assured him that way would
be immediately opened for His Royal Highness, and accordingly this
was done spontaneously as he approached the gate. He was received
with a deafening shout of applause, with the waving of
handkerchiefs, and the uncovering of every head, which he
acknowdedged, by bowing repeatedly and most gracefully, to the very
neck of his horse.
Prince Albert then proceeded to the Royal Institution on the Mound,
where he visited the apartments of the Royal Society, for the
purpose of inscribing his name in the list of members, he having
been unanimously and by acclamation elected an honorary fellow, at a
special meeting, held on the 29th of August. He was accompanied
thither by Principal Lee, and Mr. Russell, Treasurer to the Royal
Society. Having written his name in the book, the Prince walked
through the apartments, and expressed his approbation of the manner
in which the Royal Society is accommodated. His Royal Highness then
visited the Museum of the Scottish Antiquaries, where he saw the
celebrated “Maiden,”—the rude machine by which State criminals were
for ages decapitated in Scotland, and which is said to have given
origin to the continental guillotine,—John Knox’s pulpit, —the stool
which Jenny Geddes threw at the head of the clergyman, who was about
to read the liturgy,—David Rizzio’s walking cane,— the old Scottish
instrument of torture called the thumbikins,—the ribbon worn by
Prince Charles Stuart,—and many other things, which he examined with
great curiosity. His Royal Highness then inspected the Gallery of
Ancient Pictures in the large room belonging to the Royal
Association for the encouragement of the Fine Arts, where he was
much pleased with the choice Vandykes. He there met Sir John Robison
and Dr. Abercromby.
It is much to be regretted that the limited time which the Prince
had to bestow, put it out of his power to inspect the grand
collection of casts from ancient sculpture in the gallery, and other
apartments above stairs, belonging to the Honourable the
Commissioners of the Board of Trustees for the Encouragement of
Scottish Manufactures, where the finest specimens of ancient
sculpture, from all the foreign collections, are to be seen, and
where the celebrated and unrivalled Albacini collection of ancient
pictorial busts, acquired at Rome, has been set up, for the
admiration and study both of artists and classical scholars, and
which are so especially useful to the students in the three classes
of the school of design established by the Board.
From the Royal Institution Prince Albert proceeded to the Calton
Hill, whence he enjoyed that series of grand panoramic views already
described. Returning thence, he rode through George-street and
Moray-place, and following the Lothian-road, he went out as far as
Morningside, for the purpose of beholding the fine extended view of
the city from that point, where its prominent features of the
Castle, the Victoria spire, the old Cathedral of St. Giles, Heriot’s
Hospital, Salisbury Crags, and Arthur Seat, are seen to great
advantage, and then returning by Bruntsfield Links, and the middle
walk of the Meadows, to Teviot-row, he proceeded at a good pace by
Bristo-street towards Dalkeith. On his arrival at the ducal palace,
the Prince expressed the great interest which he had experienced in
all he had seen in the Scottish metropolis. |