Now came Saturday the
3d of September, when the loyal inhabitants of the city were to be
gladdened by a sight of their Queen. Every human being who could
move at all, cither on foot or on horseback, or in a vehicle of any
kind, was astir by an early hour in the morning. The lesson which
the Queen had unwittingly taught them, was not thrown away ; and the
whole population, from my Lord Provost down to the humblest
individual, were up and doing, almost by cock-crow. The whole
country for miles round poured in its population ; and the railway
trains and steamers groaned with asthmatic oppression, from the
crowds which they had to convey. Nearly all the places in the
temporary galleries, so plentifully erected along the line of those
streets through which Her Majesty was to pass, were occupied by nine
o’clock in tbe morning, and there the people stood or sat, according
to circumstances, in a state of the most intense expectation. Though
a strict regard to truth forbid any one to exclaim—
“The dawn is overcast, the morning
lowers,
And heavily in clouds brings on the day—
The great, th’ important day”-
yet the morning was
by no means bright. There was no rain, however,—and the citizens of
Edinburgh, always sufficiently proud of its grandeur, and desirous
that it should make its proper impression on the minds of strangers,
comforted themselves with the reflection, that if “Auld Reekie” was
not gay under smiling sunshine that day, she would at least look all
the more sublime on that account.
For the benefit of those who have never been in Edinburgh, it is
necessary to explain, that its most ancient part, through which Her
Majesty was to make her royal progress to the Castle, covers a long
ridge, rising gradually from the Palace of Holyrood, in the plain at
its eastern extremity, for about a mile, till it terminates in the
bold and lofty crag, covered by the extensive and antique
fortifications of the Castle, frowning over the lower and more level
country that stretches away to the west. Up the central part of this
ridge runs a very steep line of street, extremely narrow in some
places, and very wide in others. Beginning from the east, the first
part of the thoroughfare, called the Canongate, when taken along
with its tributary closes, and some other streets, forms that burgh
from which was issued the notice already given in the account of the
transactions of yesterday. This street, now properly called the
Canongate, has its name from having been the gate or street where
stood the houses of the Canons of the Abbey of Holyrood. The Abbey
was erected by David I. in the year 1128, on the site of the more
ancient town of Herbergare, in fulfilment of a vow made in
consequence of his having been miraculously saved from an infuriated
deer, b> the intervention of a cross from Heaven, whilst hunting in
the royal forest. Exactly four centuries after this, in the year
1528, James V. erected a house, near the south-western corner of the
Abbe) Church, and in 1672 Charles II. added to this the whole of the
remainder of the magnificent structure of Holyrood Palace. The
Canongate was filled with what were considered very splendid houses
in those old times, belonging to the highest nobility and
aristocracy in Scotland, who all desired to have a house here, in
order to be near the Court. Many of these houses were declared to
belong to those counties in which their owners’ estates were
situated, so that most of the counties of Scotland have
representative fragments here. “This place,” says Maitland, “has
suffered more by the union of the kingdoms, than all the other parts
of Scotland ; for having, before that period, been the residence of
the chief of the Scottish nobility, it was then in a flourishing
condition; but being deserted by them, many of their houses are
fallen down, and others in a ruinous condition; it is a piteous
case!” The street has still an air of antiquity about it, and many
parts are extremely picturesque, as may he seen hy Mr. Duncan’s fine
picture of the march of Prince Charles to Holyrood. But its
inhabitants now principally belong to the working class of society,
and the humblest trades are followed in apartments, the size of
which, with their faded decorations, particularly their ceilings and
chimney-pieces, still afford proofs of the wealth and taste of the
original occupants. Amongst others, the celebrated Regent Moray’s
house, about two-thirds of the way up the street, and on the south
side, is remarkable for its imposing appearance, and its beautiful
balcony supported on trusses.
The Canongate was divided off from the city by a gate, with a very
picturesque tower over it, called the Netherbow Port, which having
been considered as an impediment to the street, was taken down in
August 1704. Above this point the High-street of the city suddenly
opens to a great width, and it is singularly well adapted for such a
show as that which was about to he exhibited there, having venerable
tenements on either side. In Scotland these are called lands, and
they rise, story above story, to a great height, each of the flats
being occupied by different families, though approached by one stair
common to all. Some sixty or eighty years ago, these common stairs
gave access to the town residences of the proudest nobles of the
country. Like those of the Canongate, most of them are now occupied
by artisans. At the point where the street is intersected by the
North and South Bridges, stands the Tron Church, and at its upper
end, a little way above the place where stood the ancient cross, and
where the barrier was erected, rises the old Cathedral Church of St.
Giles, with its massive square tower, surmounted by an open imperial
crown. A little below the old church, and 011 the opposite side of
the way, is the Royal Exchange. Above the church the street is
continued under the name of the Lawn-market. The modern County Booms
are on the south side of the Lawnmarket, where the street opens into
a square formed by them, the Library of the Writers to the Signet,
and the west side of the cathedral; and above the County Booms, the
main line of street is again intersected at right angles by the
thoroughfare of Bank-street and Melbourne-place, leading to George
the Fourth’s Bridge. At the upper end of the Lawnmarket, and just at
the commencement of that part of the same continued line of street,
which is called the Castle-hill, stands a grand new Gothic building,
intended as a place of meeting for the General Assembly of the
Church of Scotland, with a magnificent tower and spire then in
progress. As its foundation stone had not yet been laid with masonic
ceremony, scaffolds and galleries were erected there for the Grand
Lodge of Free Masons of Scotland, where they, with attendant lodges,
had this clay taken their places, prepared, in the first place, to
welcome the Queen as she went up to the Castle, and afterwards to
perform the ceremonial previous to her return thence. To complete
the general description of this great line of thoroughfare, it is
only necessary to add, that the street called the Castle-hill is
extremely narrow, and flanked by very old and very antique houses of
the most curious and pictorial description. At its upper end, it
opens on the wide esplanade of the Castle, whence a magnificent view
is enjoyed on all sides, and at the upper end rises the ancient
fortress, with the half-moon battery threatening, as it were, to
pour destruction on all who venture to approach it.
If it be far from an easy matter for those possessed of no previous
knowledge to form an accurate notion of this long and most striking
line of street from verbal description, how much more difficult must
it be to gather anything like a correct idea of its appearance upon
this occasion—its roadways, both for carriage and foot passengers,
being densely paved with human beings, save where room was preserved
for the Queen’s carriage—the whole nails of the tenements, 011
cither side, tesselated as it were with anxious human faces, from
the street up to the ninth and tenth story—not those of their
inmates alone, but of people of better condition, who gave large
sums for the use of the windows for that day; whilst the usual
occupants, being resolved to pocket the money, and to have the
spectacle into the bargain, were either planted on the streets, the
outer stairs, or on the roofs and chimneys of the houses, at an
aerial height so fearful, as to make one tremble to look at them.
The churches were all clustered over with people, and every point of
vantage ou the towers and spires, on which a human being of good
head and nerves could plant his foot, had its hardy tenant for the
time; and when to all this were added the numerous flags and
streamers that floated from windows, or were hoisted on prominent
pinnacles—such as that of the new Gothic spire—the effect produced
had something in it extremely sublime.
Meanwhile the various authorities and public bodies were all in
action, and, according to the programme, the Lord Provost, dressed
in his scarlet and ermine robes of office, the Magistrates in their
scarlet robes and gold chains, and the Council in their gowns, the
City Chamberlain bearing the silver keys of the city, on a crimson
velvet cushion, all in court dresses, together with the City Clerk
and City Assessors, took up their position on a slightly inclined
platform, leading from the front of the Royal Exchange nearly into
the middle of the carriage way. The large body of the High
Constables, composed of men of the greatest respectability among the
citizens, sworn in to this honourable office, attended on the Lord
Provost and Magistracy as their official guard of honour, under the
command of Professor Dick, their Moderator. This gentleman had
sufficient duty to perform in keeping the street clear, and
preserving order amidst so great a crowd and pressure, although
assisted above the barrier by a party of the 53d regiment, and below
it by a party of the Innis-killing Dragoons, and a strong body of
the Police force, under Captain Stuart and his lieutenants. Mr.
Ramsay, of the Police Establishment, marshalled the public bodies to
their respective places. Higher up the street, and consequently to
the westward of the Magistrates, were the City Deputy-Lieutenants
and Justices of the Peace. In a gallery on the south side of the
street, near the cross, were the General and Resident Commissioners
of Police, and another a little above them was occupied by the boys
of George Heriot’s and George Watson’s Hospitals, and the girls of
the Merchants’ and Trades’ Maidens Hospitals, and farther up, on the
same side, were the Merchant Company and the Guildry. At about ten
o’clock a loud cheering arose among the dense multitudes assembled
in the High-street, which was caught up gradually as the people
became successively aware of its cause, and increased till it
reached the barrier, whence all eyes were strained to the westward,
with anxious curiosity. This turned out to be the approach of the
Celtic Society, in full Highland costume, under the command of their
leader, the young Marquess of Lorn, assisted by his cousin Campbell
of Islay, together with the Duke of Leeds Viscount Dunblane in
Scotland, and the Chief of Clanranald. This fine body took up their
position on the north side of the street, immediately to the east of
the barrier. Every one being thus posted to wait for the coming of
Her Majesty, the many false alarms which their impatience and
anxiety engendered, may be easily imagined.
The Queen left
Dalkeith Palace at about half-past ten o’clock, in a low-seated open
carriage, drawn by four beautiful bay horses. Her Majesty was
attired in a rich silk dress of the Royal Stuart tartan, and a blue
shawl of Paisley manufacture. On her left sat Prince Albert, who
wore over his shoulder the green ribbon and jewel of the Thistle,
the only Order worn by the Sovereign or the Prince during their
visit. Behind the Royal carriage followed those containing the
Duchess of Buccleuch and family, the Duchess of Norfolk and Miss
Paget, Lords Aberdeen and Liverpool, Sir Robert Peel and others. The
Duke of Buccleuch, and his brother Lord .Tohn Scott, rode with the
Royal carriage.
A little after eleven o’clock, the Royal carriage, escort, and
cortege, entered the eastern end of the Duke’s Walk, by the gate
close to Parson’s-green. Her Majesty there found the Royal Archers
drawn up at their station in a double line. They saluted the Queen,
who being now perfectly conversant with their ancient rights,
signified to the officer commanding the Dragoons, that the place for
him and his troopers was beyond. the line of the Royal Archers. Mr.
Sheriff Speirs attended on horseback, and immediately joined the
Duke of Buccleuch. Policemen were stationed at intervals to keep a
clear passage to the Palace-yard.
As the Queen drove
towards Holyrood, she enjoyed some of the finest views of Arthur’s
Seat; at one part of the drive especially, the mountain rises
abruptly to the left, with a picturesque projection, crowned by the
ruins of St. Anthony’s Chapel, to which an ancient hermitage once
belonged, and of which nothing now remains
but the imperishable “crystal well,” from which the recluse of these
rocks quenched his thirst. From this a ridge of cliffs gradually
rises towards the higher part of the hill, having a long and steeply
inclined valley behind them, the aerial effect of which gives great
distance and grandeur to the elevated summit. Below this ridge, and
between it and the green sloping back of Salisbury Crags, the lovely
retired valley, called the Hunter’s Bog, unfolds itself. With such
features as these before her, the Queen, whilst so near the busy
city, might, on any other day, have supposed herself in the midst of
the Highlands, but on this occasion, she was already among crowds
who had been long on the watch for her, and the echoes of the rocks
were roused by the loudest acclamations.
The multitude increased in numbers as the Queen approached Holyrood,
and she had no sooner swept along the southern side of its
quadrangle, than she beheld the great square or yard in front of the
Palace filled with people, who, having been long kept on the tiptoe
of expectation, hailed her with a loud burst of cheering, that was
prolonged by the echoes from the crags, as if the viewless spirits
of the mountain had convocated to behold and to welcome the
Sovereign of Great Britain. Again and again the people cheered, and
the Queen and Prince Albert acknowledged their kind and loyal
greetings in the most condescending manner, Her Majesty smiling with
gratification at the warmth of this reception, bowing to all around,
whilst the Prince, with head uncovered, gave the most courteous
indications of his earnest desire to reciprocate the feelings thus
so kindly expressed. The carriage stopped for a few moments here, to
permit Her Majesty to survey the ancient residence of her ancestors.
The front must have struck her as peculiarly venerable and imposing,
with its long central facade, its entrance surmounted by the
Imperial crown, and the fine round towers which rise from the
ground, at both the angles of each of the projecting wings. The bold
cornice and balustrade along the building was covered with people.
Peacefully and harmoniously as England and Scotland now-work
together under Queen Victoria, the strange reflection may have
struck her Majesty, well read as she is know-n to be in the history
of the countries she governs, that this palace was burned by the
English during the minority of Mary. It was then rebuilt on a much
larger scale than it is at present, having, when finished, no less
than five courts. The greater part of this magnificent edifice was
consumed by Cromwell’s soldiers, and, after the return of Charles
II., it was restored in its present more limited style. It bears
some resemblance in plan to the Palace of Hampton Court,—the square
inclosing a large quadrangular open court, surrounded on the four
sides with open piazzas. The old stairs are extremely spacious and
handsome; the royal apartments are grand, and the stucco ceilings of
some of them are heavy and rich. The Gallery contains a curious, but
very apocryphal, series of portraits of the Scottish monarchs. The
oldest and most interesting apartments are those which were occupied
by Queen Mary, in the north-western angle.
Her bed, and part of
the furniture she used, still remain. It Was here that the murder of
David Rizzio was brutally perpetrated in the presence of the Queen,
so well and faithfully represented in the fine historical picture by
Sir William Allan. Those who childishly doubt that the dark stains
on the wooden floor are the blood of the poor Italian, only show
their ignorance of the fact, that whether blood be that of a
murdered man or a slaughtered animal, it becomes quite impossible to
eradicate its stain from a deal board, if it has once been allowed
to sink into it.
The Queen had no sooner arrived in front of Holyrood Palace, than by
preconcerted signal, the Castle began to pour forth its thunder in a
royal salute, as if touched by a galvanic wire. The guns appeared to
be more fully charged than usual, for their voices were most
potent,—every window in the town was shaken, and every rock in its
environs returned the cannonade. Then it was that loyal hearts began
to beat quick with nervously excited expectation ; and as Her
Majesty recommenced her progress slowly through the immense mass of
congregated people, their cheers became louder, and their signs of
welcome more animated.
Immediately on leaving the precincts of Holyrood Palace, the Queen
was met at the boundary of the Burgh of Canongate, by the
Magistrates, dressed in their robes, accompanied by their assessor
and clerk, and attended by their officers. They were supported by
the Conveners of the Canongate and Leith, and the Incorporations of
the Burgh. The streets were lined by the High Constables of
Canongate and Calton, with their Moderators on horseback, and a
number of the most respectable inhabitants as special constables.
The Queen bowed graciously to these authorities, who accompanied her
in her progress through the burgh.
Having entered the rather narrow and very steep High-street of the
Canongate, the Queen had a full view of the curious grotesque fronts
and gables of its houses, rising over the carriage on either side of
the way. If the scene, from the palace to the castle, was
picturesque in the extreme, with the old walls of the buildings
faeed up, as it were, by thousands of human beings, in a state of
silent expectancy, what was the effect when, as if deprived of their
reason by the appearance of their beloved Queen, they were all at
once thrown into the most violent agitation, and opened the
floodgates of their voices in the wildest acclamations of joy.
Stretched out beyond the casements of the highest stories of the
houses, they seemed one and all to care little whether they were
launched into the streets or not, provided they could only get a
better view of that countenance, which all were so eager to behold.
The shouts were deafening, and the waving of hats, handkerchiefs,
and shawls, reminded one of some vast and curious piece of
machinery, and still as the carriage proceeded, the volume of sound
swelled before it, and slowly died away behind like the agitated
waves in the wake of a steamboat. Her Majesty was strongly impressed
with those finer feelings, which the affectionate demonstrations of
these loyal subjects were calculated to inspire, and responded to
them, not merely by repeated acknowdedgments, but evidently with the
most sincere reciprocity of heart. How very different w^as this
progress of Queen Victoria from that of the unfortunate Mary, after
her capitulation at Carberry Hill, when she wTas led up the
Canongate and High-street like a criminal, and, in all but name,
prisoner to her own subjects, receiving the most offensive insults
from the very dregs of the people.
As the Royal carriage moved up the Canongate, one hundred destitute
children, who had found a refuge in the Night Asylum for the
Houseless, were seated in front of the building. This was a most
gratifying spectacle; but another of a gayer description awaited the
Queen in front of Milton House. There a platform w'as erected on the
whole extent of the wall; in the centre of which twenty-five orphan
children were ranged, each hearing a basket filled with the choicest
flowers. On a large crimson screen, there was a shield, with the
words, “God bless Queen Victoria,” surmounted by a crown of gold, on
the scroll of which were the words, “The Orphan’s Prayer.” On either
side of this group were ranged the Roman Catholic Benefit Society.
On Her Majesty’s approach the band struck up “God Save the Queen,”
and the children put their little hands into the baskets, and
scattered flowers over the Royal carriage. The Queen bowed to them
in a most condescending manner. A short distance higher up the
street, and on the same side, the balcony of the ancient building of
Moray House was tastefully decorated with evergreens, and crowded
with well dressed persons, who added greatly to the pleasing effect.
When the carriage had passed up through the narrow part at the head
of the Canongate, where once stood the Netherbow Port, the wide
space of the High-street suddenly expanded before the Royal eyes,
with the long rising perspective of its buildings towering up on
both sides to a height scarcely now to be matched in any modern or
ancient city—the street, walls, and roofs, covered with human
beings; and when the sudden shouts arose, expanding into a full
volume of sound, the expression of the Royal countenance indicated
considerable surprise. There are thousands of streets in the
civilized world to which the High-street of Edinburgh can bear no
comparison, either as to elegance of architecture or magnificence of
design ; but the antiquated, unpretending, and smoke-discoloured
fronts of its houses, of some ten stories, occasionally topped by
curious 'gables and huge square chimneys, so high in the heavens,
that notwithstanding its great breadth from side to side, it is
painful to look directly up to them from below, gives to it a
peculiar species of venerable grandeur, which is to be found nowhere
else. Under any circumstances, it is remarkably striking; but thus
to behold it, as the Queen did, on bursting from the narrow gullet
of the Canongate, animated with thousands of eager and delighted
countenances, could not fail to make a deep impression upon Her
Majesty. The shouts of welcome increased as the Royal carriage
proceeded slowly up the street, and became like the continuous sound
of some mighty river. What were the feelings of the multitudes
assembled between the head of the Canongate and the cathedral of St.
Giles, when the shouts came up towards them like the resounding of
the ocean, as it rushes wildly on the beach! They had been long
expectant,—now their Queen was indeed coming,—and their enthusiasm
was at its height!
The Queen, who seemed to lose nothing of the scene, was particularly
struck with a group of Newhaven fisherwomen, whom she observed in
one part of the High-street, with their Barcelona handkerchiefs, or
curious foreign-looking white caps or matches on their heads, their
coloured short gowns, or men’s jackets of cloth, their voluminous
red, blue, or yellow petticoats, and their sturdy limbs, all
indicating that Dutch or Flemish origin, to which most of their
families can he traced. Her Majesty asked Lord Elcho who and what
they were, and expressed herself much pleased with their picturesque
appearance. When the carriage came opposite to where the Celtic
Society were drawn up, their whole body saluted Her Majesty with
their claymores, in Highland fashion.
About half-past eleven o’clock, the Queen reached the barrier,
formed by a line of pallisadoes crossing the way, with a wide
opening in the centre. Her Majesty’s carriage stopped immediately
opposite to the place where the Provost, Magistrates, and Council
were stationed in their robes, ready to receive her. The Lord
Provost advanced, and addressed the Queen as follows :—
“May it please Your Majesty,
“On the part of the Lord Provost, Magistrates, and Council of the
City of Edinburgh, I beg to congratulate your Majesty on your
auspicious entrance into this ancient metropolis, now graced for the
first time for ages with the presence of a Queen. These keys,
committed to us by our predecessors, have been fondly retained by us
among the vestiges of those warlike times, when walls and gates
defended against hostile inroads. Under the protection, however, of
salutary laws, firmly administered by a succession of illustrious
monarchs, from whom your Majesty is sprung, we no longer require
such shelter. We have the happiness to confide the security of this
northern capital to a brave and orderly population, united in their
allegiance to their beloved Queen, and dignified by the possession
of that pure and peaceable wisdom which is at once the ornament and
bulwark of our times. And now, with all humility, I deliver into
your Majesty’s hands the keys of our city.”
The Queen having most graciously received the keys, returned them
with these words, which she uttered in a clear and distinct voice—
“I return the keys of the city, with perfect confidence, into the
safe keeping of the Lord Provost and Magistrates of my faithful city
of Edinburgh.”
The press around the Royal carriage during this short halt was very
great, from the anxious desire that prevailed among the people to
hear the Queen speak, and the High Constables found it quite
impossible to preserve perfect order, though a momentary silence
prevailed every where else. But no sooner had the Royal carriage
begun to proceed, than the shouts that rent the air far exceeded
anything that had been previously heard, and from the pavement of
the High-street to the mass of human beings that clustered like
swallows on the crown-capped tower of St. Giles, all w ere in
agitated motion like the leaves of the aspen. Her Majesty appeared
to be much delighted with this truly glorious spectacle. One remark
may not he out of place here, and that is, that the Queen appears to
be gifted with the same Royal art of acknowledging compliments from
a crowd of people, that has distinguished many of her predecessors,
which, to use a strange phrase, has in it a certain generalized
individuality, making every person present believe that he or she is
favoured with peculiar and marked notice. This will be best
understood from the following illustrative anecdote:—“Well, John,”
said a gentleman, who lives near Edinburgh, to his hind on the
evening of this glorious day; “did you see the Queen?”—“Troth did I
that, sir.”—“Well, what did you think of her, John?”—“Troth, sir, I
was terrible feared afore she cam forrit—my heart was amaist in my
mouth—but whan she did come forrit, od, I wasna feared at a’—I just
lookit at her, and she lookit at me—and she bowed her head to me,
and I bowed my head to her. Od, she’s a real fine leddy, wi’ fient a
bit o’ pride aboot her at a’.”
The Celtic Society formed in rear of the Royal carriage, and
escorted Her Majesty towards the Castle, and during the rest of her
progress through the city. As the way gradually narrows above the
crossing to Bank-street, the crowds were so densely packed there as
to make the passage somewhat difficult. When the carriage reached
that fine new Gothic building, intended as a place of meeting for
the General Assembly, the Queen’s attention was attracted to the
gallery, where stood the Grand Master Mason of Scotland Lord
Frederick Fitzclarence, the Earl of Buchan, acting Depute, Patrick
Maxwell Stewart, M.P., acting Substitute, J. Whyte Melville, and Sir
David Kinloch, Bart., acting Senior and Junior Wardens, W. A. Lawrie,
Grand Secretary, John Maitland, Grand Clerk, Thomas Graham Dundas,
Senior Grand Deacon, William Baillie, Junior Grand Deacon, the Rev.
Alexander Stewart, minister of Douglas, Grand Chaplain, William
Cunningham, Grand Jeweller, James Gillespie Graham, architect of the
building, acting Grand Architect, and a very full meeting of the
brethren, to the amount of not less than three hundred, all properly
clothed, and with their insignia and jewels. The Queen especially
noticed the Grand Master as she passed, by repeatedly bowing to him
and waving her hand, and the Grand Master and the whole of the
brethren saluted Her Majesty in the most loyal and appropriate
manner, as did also the ladies in another balcony, among whom were
the Countess of Glasgow and Lady Augusta Fitzclarence.
No sooner had the Queen passed, than the Grand Master, the Grand
Lodge, and the whole Brethren entered the great tower of the Hall,
where, after most appropriate and impressive addresses from the
Grand Master and the Grand Chaplain, in the course of which allusion
was made to the auspicious event of Her Majesty Queen Victoria being
now within the city, and in the close vicinity of the place where
they then stood—the foundation-stone of the Victoria Hall, as the
building is henceforward to be called, was laid with short though
solemn ceremonial. The following is the inscription engraved on the
plate deposited in the stone :—
li TO THE GLORY OF GOD, IN HONOUR OF
THE QUEEN,
ON THE 3d DAY OF SEPTEMBER IN THE YEAR OF OUR LORD MDCCCXLII.
THE DAY OF HER MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY
QUEEN VICTORIA
VISITING THE CITY OF EDINBURGH,
THE RIGHT HONOURABLE SIR JAMES FORREST OF COMISTON, BARONET.
LORD PROVOST,
THE REVEREND DAVID WELSH, D.D.,
MODERATOR OF THE ASSEMBLY,
THE FOUNDATION-STONE OF THIS SUPERSTRUCTURE, TO BE CALLED
VICTORIA HALL,
FOR THE USE OF
THE GENERAL ASSEMBLY OF THE CHURCH OF SCOTLAND,
WAS LAID BY
THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD FREDERICK FITZCLARENCE, G.C.H., &c.
GRAND MASTER MASON OF SCOTLAND,
IN PRESENCE OF THE GRAND LODGE, AND OTHER MASONIC LODGES.
JAMES GILLESPIE GRAHAM, ESQ. OF ORCHILL, ARCHITECT.
JOHN LIND, MASTER-BUILDER OF THE HALL.
LENGTH, FROM EAST TO WEST, 111 FEET,
HEIGHT OF SPIRE OVER THE ENTRANCE, 241 FEET.”
An Edinburgh almanack,
the newspapers of the day, a plan of the city, and a beautiful
engraving of the building, with coins of the present reign, all
enclosed in a glass jar, were also deposited in the cavity of the
stone.
The Royal carriage reached the wide esplanade in front of the Castle
by a few minutes before twelve o’clock. There the way had been
cleared and kept by the Inniskilling Dragoons; but the pressure and
cheering of the multitude was immense. The carriage stopped before
the gates, and the Queen and the Prince alighted amidst unceasing
acclamations, excited by the unexpected circumstance of Her Majesty
quitting her carriage, an idea having prevailed that she would use
it to climb the steep within the Castle, and tanners’ bark having
been laid to afford the horses better footing. Many pressed eagerly
forward to see their Queen on foot; but Her Majesty having crossed
the drawbridge, appeared to care little for the wet and disagreeable
condition of the tanners’ bark under foot, and leaning on Prince
Albert’s arm, she entered the Castle gates, which were instantly
shut. A very small and select number of persons only were allowed
entrance with Her Majesty. It is necessary to mention, for the
information of those who never saw it, that the Castle of Edinburgh
stands upon a bold perpendicular rock, about 300 feet high,
accessible only from the east by the esplanade. The entrance is
through an outer barrier, and by a drawbridge over the dry ditch,
and a gate defended by two flanking bastions. The space within the
walls is about six acres. The passage up to the great square,
chiefly cut out of the rock, is very steep, narrow, and winding, and
it passes through two gateways with portcullises. The Queen
proceeded immediately with an active step up the way to the Argyll
battery, attended by Sir Neil Douglas, Commander of the Forces in
Scotland, and Fort-Major Cansh, who walked uncovered, one on each
side of the royal pair, and accompanied by the Duchess of Buccleuch,
the Duchess of Norfolk, and other ladies ; Lord Aberdeen, Lord
Liverpool, Sir Robert Peel, and others. The Duke and Duchess of
Argyll, and Sir George Murray, who had been previously admitted to
the Castle, there joined the Royal party. A chair was brought for
the Queen, but she declined sitting down, and remained for some
little time enjoying the prospect, and making remarks to those
around her, upon the grandeur of the view of the new part of the
city, and the other objects thence to be seen. After this, the Queen
and Prince Albert proceeded up towards the Mortar battery, and
instead of following the easier ascent, Her Majesty withdrew her arm
from the Prince, and they tripped nimbly up thither by a short
though steeper way, followed more slowly by their less active
attendants. The battery, and part of its parapet walls, were covered
with scarlet cloth. It affords a remarkably fine point of view, and
it is rendered peculiarly interesting from the great old cannon,
called Mons Meg, being placed here, as if to threaten destruction to
the new part of the city. A few of the enormous stone bullets, which
it was calculated to discharge, are lying beside it.
As the earliest notices of Mons Meg occur in the reign of James
IV., it is probable
that she was fabricated by order of that monarch. She accompanied
him to the siege of Norham, being then called Mons, or Monssc, the
“Meg” having been, for some cause, added afterward. There is a
curious entry in the accounts of the High Treasurer during that
reign, relative to her having been transported on some occasion of
national festivity, from the Castle to the Abbey of Holyrood. “Item,
to the pyonouris to gang to the Castell to help with Mons down, xs.
Item, to the menstralles that playit befoir Mons down the gait, xivs.
Item, giffen for xiii stanc of irnc to mak graitli to Mens’ new
cradill, and gavillakkis to go with her, for ilk stane xxviih. iva.
Item, for vii nrichtcs for ii dayis and anc half, that maid Mons’
cradill, to each man on the day, xvid. Item, for walking- (watching
at night) of Mons the xxv, xxvi, xxvii, xxviii, xxix davs of .Tulii,
and the gimncir of the Abbey ilk nycht, iii'. Item, the last day of
August, giffyn to Robyn Ivor to fee 100 workmen to pas with Mons,
siclike as the laif was feit, to ilk man vi8. xxx1’. Item, for xxvii
lib. of talloun for Mons. Item, for viii cllc of claith, to he Mons’
claith to cover her, ix5. iiiid. Item, for mair talloun to Mons,
xx». Item, for 200 spiken nails to turse with Mons, iii.” During the
festivities celebrated at Edinburgh bj' the Queen Dowager, Mary of
Guise, on the occasion of her daughter’s marriage to the Dauphin of
France in 1588, Mons Meg was not allowed to be silent or inactive.
The Treasurer’s accounts contain the following article:—“By the
Queen’s precept and speeiale command, item, the third day of Julii,
to certain pyonaris for thair lauboris in the mounting of Mons furth
of her lair to be schote, and for the finding and carrying of hir
bullet after scho wes schote, fra Weirdie Mure to the Castcll of
Edinburgh.” How strange the view here conjured up of the environs of
the city at that period ! Wardie is about two miles, in a direct
line, from the castle, but how could any such experiment he now
tried in so rich and populous a country?
This curious cannon is described by Maitland, as “a piece of
ordnance resembling an old-fashioned mortar, (such as I have seen in
Germany, though not so large, nor hooped, but cast,) denominated
Mounts-Mcgg, small at the breech, and large at the mouth, composed
of a number of tbick iron bars, which, by their inward appearance,
look as if welded, and being strongh bound by strong iron hoops,
seems to have been of considerable strength, but there being a
breach in its side, that is probably owing to a burst the last time
it was discharged. It is in length thirteen feet, two feet three
inches and a half in diameter at the mouth, and the bore twenty
inches wide, tapering inwards.” The breach here alluded to is
accounted for by Sir John Lauder, Lord Fountainhall, ancestor of the
author of the present work, who records in his “Historical
Observes,” in October 1680, that when James Duke of York, afterwards
James II. of Great Britain, came to Scotland, “A little after his
arriveall, having visited the Castle of Edinburgh, and for a
testimony of joy- the gun called Muns Meg, being charged by the
advice of ane English canoneer, in the shooting was riven; which
some foolishly called a bad omen. The Scots resented it extreemely,
thinking the Englishman might of malice have done it purposely, they
having no canon in all England so big as slice.” How strong the
Scottish feeling of jealousy and hostility towards England about a
century and a half ago, as thus indicated by this strange and
ridiculous suspicion! Excepting for its great antiquity, the loss to
Scotland by this accident would have been small, and her warlike
resources would have been but little impaired by this useless engine
being disabled. Yet such feelings existed to a much later period,
for this great gun being removed from Edinburgh Castle to London, in
1754, it was ever after a sore subject for a Scotsman to talk of.
Having lain seventy juars in the Tower, this redoubted heroine was
sent back to Scotland by George IV., in March 1829, and although
Edinburgh had b)r this time too much to rejoice in to be greatly
uplifted by the return home of this ancient but useless piece of
cannon, yet there were few people in the city who did not feel a
certain degree of satisfaction in beholding her take up her old
place in the castle.
The Queen and Prince Albert examined Mons Meg with great attention,
but with that fine taste for scenery cherished bv both, it cannot be
imagined that either could long be occupied with a rusty old gun,
when one of the grandest prospects any where to he seen was before
them. Looking eastward, past the lofty buildings of the castle, they
saw the ancient part of the city through which they had so recently
passed, backed by Arthur Seat, and the sight dropping fearfully down
some hundred feet perpendicularly from the parapet directly into the
gardens below', soared thence through the valley, over the Royal
Institution, toward the North Bridge, and thence to the sea.
Returning along the Calton Hill, with the massive buildings and
towers of its jails begirding the precipitous rock, and the numerous
monuments that crown its summit, the eye roamed westward over a vast
extent of view. Looking down, and across the valley, as if from the
heavens, the vast expectant crowds who were tarrying in
Princes-street for the coming of their Queen, together with the
numerous carriages and horses there assembled, appeared like
pismires and toys. Thence the vision travelled over the country
beyond it, thickly set with human dwellings, and luxuriated over the
wide expanse of the Firth, with its sailing vessels and steamers,
and especially those of the Royal Flotilla, the whole hounded by the
Fifeshire coast, stretching towards the west on the one hand, and
melting away into the eastern horizon on the other. Immediately to
the west of the town, arose the soft and flowing outlines of the
beautiful Corstorphine Hills, their summits and slopes enriched with
wrood, and between these and the Firth the extensive demesne of
Dalmeny Park, the extreme distance being closed in by the misty
forms of the chain of western Scottish Alps. The Queen showed her
admiration of this delightful prospect, by sitting down on the wall,
that she might enjoy it more perfectly, and by making-many enquiries
of the Duchess of Buccleuch, and others, as to the various points.
Her Majesty indeed appeared loth to leave the rampart, and she
returned to it more than once, that she might have yet another
glance of this remarkable scene. Sharp-eyed loyalty discovered the
Queen from Princes-street, and mingled shouts of acclamation came
faintly upward on the Royal ears. Her Majesty waved her
handkerchief, and all those in and about the castle, hitherto
withheld by etiquette from giving way to their feelings, now yielded
to them in hearty hurrahs. At this moment the captain of the Pique
frigate, watching with his telescope, became aware of the Queen’s
position, and began to discharge his guns in a royal salute, and the
flash, with the curling smoke, and the mellow and tardy report,
added greatly to the whole effect.
The Queen next proceeded to the half-moon battery, which, looking
directly to the east commands a grand view over the singularly
antique mass of the Old Town, and Arthur Seat, together with a
repetition of a great part of the New Town, and the prominent
features already described. Immediately adjacent to the half-moon
battery is the great central square of the castle, on the southern
side of which was the ancient Parliament-house, now used as
barracks; the northern side was anciently a large church, and the
apartments on the eastern side were for ages occupied as a royal
residence, when the rude times became so troublesome as to render it
important for the sovereign to be secure against sudden attack or
treachery. Here is the room where the Scottish Regalia are kept, but
they had been removed for the Queen’s inspection into an apartment,
called the officers’ old mess-room, as being a fitter place for her
to see them in. Her Majesty was here received by the Officers of
State, the Duke of Argyll, Lord Viscount Melville, and the Lord
Justice-Clerk, to whom she addressed many inquiries regarding the
antique emblems of royalty before her, which had been borne for ages
by her Scottish ancestors. They are extremely curious and beautiful
as objects of antiquity, but the sight of them to such an ancient
diadem of Scotland consists of two circles of the purest gold,
chased, and adorned with precious stones and pearls of great size,
the upper circle being surmounted by crosses flcuree, interchanged
with fleurs-de-lis, and with small points terminated by large
pearls. The under and broader circle is adorned with twenty-two
precious stones, topazes, amethysts, emeralds, rubies, and jacinths,
with oriental pearls intervening. These stones arc neither cut into
facets nor polished, but set plain in the ancient style of
jeweller’s work. The smaller circle, surmounting the under one, is
adorned with diamonds and sapphires alternately, and its upper verge
terminates in the range of the crosses, fleurs-de-lis, and knobs,
topped with pearls. The date of this part of it, which was the
original crown, is altogether unknown, but it is extremely probable
that. it may be as old as the time of Robert Bruce. Two imperial
arches of gold were added by James V. These cross and intersect each
other above the circles, which arc surmounted by a globe, over which
rises a large cross patee, richly ornamented with pearls, and
bearing the characters, J. R. Y. The cap is of crimson velvet,
turned up with ermine, and adorned with pearls. This was substituted
by James VII., for the former cap of purple velvet, which had become
much decayed during the concealment of these valuables in the time
of the civil war. The bonnet is adorned with four superb pearls, set
in gold, and fastened in the velvet. The crown measures about nine
inches in diameter, twenty-seven inches in circumference, and about
six and an half inches in height to the top of the cross. The whole
presents a beautiful specimen of the skill and taste of the periods
to which its manufacture belongs. Lord Fountainhall tells us in his
Memoranda, that “ the crown of Scotland is not the ancient one, hut
was casten of new by King James V. but this remark applies to the
addition of the arches by that monarch.
The Sceptre is an elegant rod of silver, about thirty-nine inches in
length, of a hexagonal form. It is divided by three ornamented
rings, and surmounted by an antique capital of embossed leaves,
supporting small figures of the Virgin Mary, St. Andrew and St.
James, in ornamented niches. These are surmounted by a crystal globe
of two inches and a quarter in diameter, above which is a small
oval, topped with an oriental pearl. Under the figures appear the
letters J. E. V. It is probable that James V. had the sceptre, and
the addition to the crown made when he was in France in 1536, for
the workmanship appears to excel that which Scotland could then
produce.
Pope Julius II. presented the Sword of State to James IV. Its style
resembles that of Benvenuto Cellini. Its entire length is about five
feet, the handle and pummel being fifteen inches, of silver, highly
carved and ornamented, and richly gilt. The cross is formed by two
dolphins, with their heads joined to the handle. The scabbard is of
crimson velvet, covered with filligree work and silver, with oak
leaves and acorns, the emblem of the Pope who gave it.
Charles II. was crowned at Scone, and invested witli the regalia on
the 1st of January 1661, and so rapid was the unfavourable turn of
his affairs, that the Estates of Parliament were soon afterwards
obliged to take measures for the preservation of the Regalia from a
foreign enemy. On the rapid approach of the English, they were sent
for safety to the Earl Marischal’s strong castle of Dunottar, built
on an isolated rock, projecting into the German ocean near
Stonehaven, and it was strongly garrisoned for the protection of
these royal emblems, the command being given to George Ogilvy of
Barras. The place was likewise fortified with additional artillery,
and amongst other pieces Mons Meg was transported thither. The
embrasure where this enormous gun was placed is still pointed out
among the ruins of the castle, and tradition tells that one of its
shot dismasted an English vessel about to enter the harbour of
Stonehaven, at the distance of a mile and a half. The knowledge of
the Regalia being there, seems to have incited the English to
besiege the castle, and the place having been reduced to great
straits, it was summoned by Lambert the English general, but
although the conditions were honourable, they were rejected by the
lieutenant-governor. The castle was then subjected to close
blockade, and in this emergency, when valour and prudence had ceased
to be of any avail, an ingenious plan for their removal was devised.
Christian Fletcher, wife of the Rev. James Granger, minister of
Kinneff, a small parish church within four or five miles of Dunottar,
obtained permission from the English general to pay a visit to Mrs.
Ogilvy, the governor’s lady, and in compliance with the scheme laid
by them, she hid the crown in her lap. Though the English general
himself helped her to her horse, on her return, she managed so well
that the trick was not discovered. Her maid followed her on foot,
bearing the sword and sceptre, concealed in bundles of lint, which
Mrs. Granger pretended were to be spun into thread. Thus were they
transported through the blockading army to Kin-neff, and disposed of
by her husband, Mr. Granger, who afterwards granted to the Countess
of Marischal, the following document:—
“I, Mr. James Granger, minister at Ivinneff, grant me to have in my
custody the honours of the kingdom, viz. the Crown, Sceptre, and
Sword. Tor the crown and sceptre, I raised the pavement-stone just
before the pulpit, in the night tyme, and digged under it ane hole,
and layed down the stone just as it wes before, and removed the
mould that remained, that none would have discerned the stone to
have been raised at all; the sword, again, at the west end of the
church, amongst some common seits that stand there.
I digged down in the ground betwixt the two foremest seits, and
layed it down within the case of it, and covered it up as that,
removing the superfluous mould, it could not be discovered by any
body; and if it shall please God to call me by death before they be
called for, your ladyship will find them in that place.”
There is something extremely romantic in the idea of this clergyman
being so employed in the church at dead of night, and it is curious
to think how many rustic feet must have unconsciously trodden over
these regal trophies, and how much the mere suspicion of their being
there would have disturbed the devotions of any of the congregation
who might have entertained it. The castle was taken about a month
afterwards, and the disappointment of the victorious English was so
great, when they discovered that the Regalia were nowhere to be
found, that they treated the lieutenant-governor and his lady with
so much severity, that Mrs. Ogilvy soon afterwards died. The
minister and his wife being also suspected, were tortured, but they
maintained the integrity of their secret. At length the
Dowager-Countess Marischal put the enemy upon a false scent, by
circulating a report, that they had been carried to Paris by her
j’onngest son, the Honourable Sir John Keith. The worthy clergyman
and his wife frequently visited their sacred deposit, for the
purpose of renewing the cloths in which they were u rapt. They were
raised from their temporary tomb at the Restoration of Charles, and
honours and rewards were hestowed on all those who had been
concerned in their preservation. Sir John Keith, youngest son of the
Countess-Marischal, who had been severely treated for supporting the
truth of the rumour his mother had spread, was created Earl of
Kintore, and Knight-Marischal of Scotland. Ogilvy of Barras was made
a baronet, and two thousand merks were voted by the Scottish
Parliament to the good minister, Mr. Granger, and his wife Christian
Fletcher.
On the 26th of March 1707, the Regalia were deposited in an oak
chest in the Crown-Room, and there they lay till Scottish jealousy
led to the belief that they had been secrctty removed to England.
Long after this had ceased to exist, a question of antiquarian
research arose, and George IV., when Prince Regent, granted his
royal warrant to a Commission, to ascertain the fact; and, upon the
chest being opened with great ceremony, they were discovered in the
very state in which they had been deposited in 1707. Sir Walter
Scott had the satisfaction of being one of the commissioners, and
every one who has become acquainted with that wonderful man, from
his inimitable works, may conceive the interest he took in this
investigation.
After minutely examining them, Prince Albert expressed a desire to
see the chamber where they had been found, and felt great interest
on being admitted into it. The Queen then proceeded to inspect the
small apartment on the ground floor, in the southeastern corner of
this side of the quadrangle, called Queen Mary’s Room, whither she
deemed it wise to retire in those iron times, previous to the birth
of her son; and where, on the 19th of June 1566, James I. of England
was born, in whose person that union of the two crowns took place,
which Her Most Gracious Majesty Queen Victoria now wears. The
following strange doggrel lines are mentioned by old Maitland as
being written on the wall, where they may still be seen :—
“Lord Jesn Chryst, that crownit was
with thornse
Preserve the birth, quhais Badgie heir is borne,
And send her sonne succession to reign still,
Lang in this Realme, if that it be thy will.
Als grant, 0 Lord, whatever of her proseed,
Be to thy honour and Prais, so be it.”
Her Majesty was much
astonished at the small size of the room ; and indeed what a
contrast does the retirement of a Queen to such a place of strength,
on such an occasion, present to the superior civilization of modern
times!
Her Majesty, having visited the officers’ apartments, the way to
which was laid with scarlet cloth, and having courteously declined
partaking of the refreshments there provided for her, prepared to
quit the Castle, after having been in it for about three quarters of
an hour, during which main questions were put as to the age and
history of the different buildings. The Queen and Prince returned to
their carriage amidst the cheers of all within the walls, including
the numerous ladies and gentlemen who had been admitted by tickets
to occupy the windows ; all the areas and roads being left clear.
The band of the 53d Regiment, stationed in the open space near the
Argyll battery, and which had played occasionally, now struck up
“God Save the Queen!”
After Her Majesty and the Prince were seated in the carriage, a
short delay occurred till the rest of the party had got into their
vehicles, and during this time an immense pressure took place, from
the unconquerable desire of the people to get a nearer view of their
sovereign. This jostling produced some whimsical scenes, which now
and then beguiled her Majesty of a smile. One elderly woman
succeeded, by a coup de main et de force, in making her way past the
guards, and having most unceremoniously pressed through the party in
attendance on Her Majesty, she exclaimed, in a convulsive state of
excitement, “Oh, will ye no let me see the Queen?” A military
gentleman pushed her back; but she was not to be so easily beaten.
Again, squeezing forward, till she stood within a yard of the Royal
carriage,—“Hecli, sirs,” exclaimed she, clasping her hands, “Is that
the Queen?—Is that the Queen?—Weel, what have I no seen this
day!—Eh, but she’s a bonnie leddie!” The poor woman gazed upon Her
Majesty with the fixture of perfect wonder, until she was compelled
to withdraw from the spot, greatly consoled, however, by the
gratifying reflection, that not only had she seen the Queen, but
that the Queen had seen her. The Royal Archers were drawn up in
front and in rear of the carriage, and to the right of it, and the
Queen observing that none of them were placed to the left, next the
gate, she said to the gentleman, who happened to stand nearest to
her, “Should not some of your number go to the other side?” Sir
George Murray, who was within hearing, told Her Majesty, that they
were prepared to fall in upon both sides of the carriage the moment
it began to move. This was accordingly done, and the carriage, with
its attendant cortege, with great difficulty, proceeded down the
crowded esplanade, giving the Queen leisure to contemplate the
bronze statue of her Royal uncle, the Duke of York, executed by
Campbell, which stands close to the railing of the gardens. A party
of the 53d Regiment having there succeeded in clearing the way, by
pushing hack the crowd, the carriages moved on with somewhat more
freedom, and were enabled to make their way down the narrow
Castle-hill. This is one of the most picturesque portions of a
street which modern innovation has left in the Old Town of
Edinburgh. The houses on its north side are so antiquated and
grotesque, that they must have struck Her Majesty very much. A
little way down a close, on that side, ivas the ancient residence of
Queen Mary’s mother, Mary of Guise. A curious painted wooden ceiling
has recently been discovered there.
Having reached the Victoria Hall, Her Majesty again saluted Lord
Frederick Fitzclarence, who, having completed the masonic
ceremonial, stood with the Grand Lodge on the gallery. The Lord
Provost and Magistrates now preceded Her Majesty in their carriages.
On turning into Bank-street, which is steep, and not so wide as the
Lawmmarket at that place, the squeeze became something tremendous.
It seemed as if the very carriage must be crushed to pieces, and the
Archers had enough to do. Her Majesty betrayed no symptom of
anxiety, but continued in great spirits, laughing and talking to
Lord Elcho, who was struggling hard to maintain his proper position,
whilst Prince Albert, apparently full of solicitude for the safety
of his Royal partner, seemed to he harassed with fears that some
serious accident might occur.
The procession having gone down the Mound, and turned round the
eastern side of the Royal Institution, the Queen’s carriage had
hardly passed into Princes-street, when a most distressing accident
took place, connected with an extensive temporary gallery within the
railing at the north-west of the eastern gardens of Princes-street.
It appears that those who erected the gallery, had been very
particular in issuing no more tickets than it could securely
contain; but that, after these had been admitted, numbers, who had
no right to places on it, rushed to it as the Queen was passing, in
defiance of the money-takers; and the pressure naturally taking
place towards the end next to the passing spectacle, it became so
overloaded there, that the scaffolding underneath gave way with a
horrible crash, carrying down hundreds of shrieking people. Men
immediately ran from all quarters to give assistance, and as there
are always surgeons in a crowd, some eight or ten of these useful
gentlemen were on the spot in a moment. The dragoons were extremely
active in the rescue and removal of the sufferers; and Lieut.-Col.
"White and Captain Arkwright were of most essential service, by
their coolness and judgment. One posted himself at the gate, to keep
the nay clear for the removal of the wounded, while the other was
indefatigable in procuring vehicles, and even in bringing water to
those who were injured, and as each person was carried out, he
preceded the hearers, to clear a passage through the crowd. It
turned out, that of seven people who were carried to the Infirmary,
five had forced themselves into the gallery without tickets. To wind
up this sad event, the only casualty of an unpleasant nature that
occurred during the Queen’s visit, and which was in fact entirely
owing to folly and improper conduct, it may be as well to give
Professor Miller’s official report:—
“Edinburgh, 23, York Place, September 4, 1842.
“I have examined and inquired into the various cases of injury,
occasioned by the unfortunate accident of yesterday, so far as
circumstances have permitted. I have to report, that one person is
dead, and that another is so seriously hurt, as to preclude the hope
of recovery; that not a few fractures have been sustained, both of
legs and arms; and that many bruises, sprains, and slighter injuries
have occurred, swelling' the number of those hurt to about fifty.
But I am glad to say, that, excepting the two cases first mentioned,
there is no prospect of farther loss either of life or limb.
“JAMES MILLER, Professor of Suryerg."
Most fortunately the Queen was spared all knowledge of the accident
until the evening, when she was much affected by the intelligence;
and instantly despatched a messenger from Dalkeith, to learn the
state of the sufferers; and Her Majesty made daily inquiries
afterwards, and transmitted pecuniary aid, where such was found to
be needful.
Having passed the front of the Royal Institution, the
intercolummation of the peristyle of which was filled with
spectators, the Queen proceeded westward, through crowds of
well-dressed people, and carriages lining both sides of the way. The
broad balcony of the splendid Club House was filled with a galaxy of
beaut} and fashion. The cheering continued to be everywhere
deafening, and was taken up by fresh crowds at every turn of the
wheels. Whilst the Queen made her acknowledgments, it is to he hoped
that Her Majesty was not thereby hindered from looking across the
gardens that fill the valley, towards the black, beetling,
rampart-girt rock of the castle, towering up from the bottom to an
overawing height, and that Mons Meg, looming unnaturally large, and
marking the position so recently honoured by her presence, did not
pass unobserved. It was curious to notice how the more active people
managed during this day, after seeing the Queen in one place, to
dash off in flying troops to another favourable point. There were
individuals who, by thus manoeuvring, contrived to see her four or
five different times.
Passing the beautiful Gothic episcopal chapel of St. John’s, the
Royal carriage entered Queensferry-street, and so proceeded past
that pretty grove of trees in Randolph-crescent, remarkable for
being annually occupied by a colony of rooks, and then it entered
upon the Dean-bridge, over the Water of Leith, whence very fine
scenery opens on both sides. The view up the stream to the left,
with its hanging banks of wood, its buildings, and especially the
picturesque towers of the Orphan Hospital, rising over the trees, is
very beautiful. But it is when looking to the right, in an eastern
direction, that a truly grand and extensive prospect is to be
enjoyed. The backs of the houses of Randolph-crescent, rising from
the very verge of the cliff, projecting over the river, are carried
continuously away from the eye, meeting with those of Great
Stuart-street west, Ainslie-place, Great Stuart-street east, and
Moray-place, and so carrying on a waving line, varied by the plan of
these different places and streets being here reversed ;—all
princely houses—each with its beautiful fragment of garden, below
which the hanging terraces common to the whole run along above the
stream. About half a mile down the bed of the river, is the
classical little round temple of Hygcia, erected over the chalybeate
spring that rises there. Then comes wood on the one side of the
vista, and trees, mingled with an extensive portion of handsome town
residences on the other, with bridges at intervals, uniting the
hanks. Beyond this stretches a long extent of sloping country,
covered with buildings, and then Leith, and the Firth of Forth, and
Inchkeith, with the more distant shores, and North Berwick Law, and
the Bass. There is something Italian and Claude-like in the
composition of this scene, and, as a whole, it may remind those who
have been in Italy, of certain prospects in the Mediterranean.
Perhaps the Italian sky is not often lent to it, and at this time
that of Mid-Lothian, which had throughout the day behaved as well as
a Mid-Lothian sky could be expected to do, now began to lower, and
to threaten that rain which by and bye descended.
An occurrence happened on this rather narrow bridge, which
abundantly proved Prince Albert’s great presence of mind, by which,
it is certain that many lives were saved. A carriage appeared with
the horses’ heads most improperly turned towards that direction from
which the Queen was advancing. The animals suddenly took fright,
wheeled about in an instant, and threatened to run directly through
the dense crowd that was a-head, and thus to whirl destruction among
them. The terrified coachman became confused, and lost command of
the reins. The Prince seeing this perilous state of things,
instantly arose, and called to the Queen’s postilions to stop, and
some of the Archers rushed forward and seized the runaway horses by
the head. Another second lost, and they must have gone furiously
over hundreds of people! No one can doubt that a tide of mingled
feelings of joy and pride must have filled Her Majesty’s heart,
after her momentary anxiety for the safety of her people was thus so
promptly and so nobly relieved by the Prince, who so well merits the
possession of her warmest and dearest affections. |