Being now fully under
weigh, the Royal Squadron proceeded down the river, the Lightning
steamer leading, to clear the way for the tow vessel and the Yacht,
and the other steamers following the royal ship according to the
seniority of their respective commanders. In rear of the whole went
the Trident, followed by the Waterman’s Company steamer, and an
above-bridge boat, called the Matrimony. These two last occasionally
pressed rather closely on the Royal Yacht, and Lord Adolphus
Fitzclarence was himself obliged to give their skippers a hint to
keep a little off. The crew of the Waterman, in new scarlet jackets,
were actively employed in the perhaps rather too frequent discharge
of several small guns, loyally intended to do honour to the Queen.
Her Majesty continued on deck until the flotilla had entered Erith
Reach, and then she went below with the Prince, and others. Soon
afterwards the clouds, which had hitherto continued so heavy and
dripping, broke up a little to leeward, and the rain began
occasionally to intermit; so much so, indeed, as to cheer the
drooping hopes of the weather-wise seamen, and to encourage them to
predict, that “the sun would yet shine upon Her Majesty afore she
made Gravesend.”
These prognostications proved to be not without foundation; for by
the time the Royal Squadron was abreast of Erith Pier, the weather
had given additional indications of permanent amendment. The rain
had entirely ceased, and the atmosphere had so far cleared, as to
show the Erith shore crowded with people, whose hearty cheers
reaching the vessels, were re-echoed by those on board. These were
followed by a salute fired from the guns on the pier, which was
answered by those of one of the steamers. At this moment the
Gravesend steamer, called the Ruby, a very handsome vessel, passed
up the river, full of people. Her paddle-boxes were manned in the
most admirable manner, and her passengers saluted the Royal Yacht
with a deafening cheer, which was taken up by all the other river
steamers. At Purfleet this parasitical fleet was augmented by the
Star, which joined them from London. She was also well filled with
passengers, who, in imitation of those on board the Ruby, manned the
paddle-boxes, and cheered heartily as she took up her sailing
station.
Now it was that the weather really became promising, and a broad
stripe of blue sky to windward raised the spirits of all. The dark
clouds breaking into separate masses, rolled heavily away, and with
them departed the gloom from every countenance. At about half-past
eight, Her Majesty and the Prince again came on deck, bringing
sunshine in their very eyes, and the moment the Queen was recognised,
she was hailed by reiterated bursts of cheering. Her Majesty
acknowledged the compliments paid her, and then occupied herself in
making enquiries of Lord Adolphus Fitzelarenee respecting the
various houses, villages, and other objects on shore, now gloriously
illuminated by brilliant sunshine. The scene became altogether more
animated. Several London steamers were seen puffing after the
flotilla, making every exertion to join it. This they easily
accomplished, for the Monkey was much too weak for her work, and
hardly carried the Yacht on more than four knots an hour. But she
was cast off between Purflcet and Grays, and her place taken by the
powerful steamer the Shearwater, which soon increased the speed to
seven knots. The Queen took great interest in the working of the
vessels, as well as in that of the shipping by which she was
surrounded; and Her Majesty and the Prince put many questions to
Lord Adolphus Fitzclarencc regarding the various objects of interest
on board the Yacht, and elsewhere. Her Majesty was especially
attracted by the graceful operation of heaving the lead, so often
performed with anxious dread by the seaman, when amidst unknown
rocks and shoals ; and she watched the man who marked it with much
interest. The vessels working about on the river, always lay to and
lowered their colours or sails, in compliment, as the Royal Squadron
passed them majestically by, whilst ever and anon some battery on
shore blazed forth its salute, amidst the far drawn sound of the
cheering of those who surrounded it. The crash produced by the
commingling of the various bands of river steamers just before the
Squadron got abreast of Grays, augmented as it was by the repeated
discharges of their guns, was quite overwhelming. However gratifying
to Her Majesty, as indicative of loyalty, this jarring was anything
but pleasing to a delicate musical ear, and consequently upon two of
the vessels coming rather closer to the stern of the Yacht than
propriety warranted, they were told by signal to sheer farther off,
and soon afterwards Her Majesty and Prince Albert retired below.
Abreast of Grays, the Black Eagle was attached as a second towing
vessel in aid of the Shearwater, and thus the speed was increased to
eight knots an hour. At twenty minutes past nine o’clock, the
Squadron arrived off Tilbury Fort, where the spectacle became
extremely fine, and pregnant with interesting historical
association. The presence of our reigning Queen, Her Majesty
Victoria, in the neighbourhood of this spot, recalled the
recollection of her great predecessor, Queen Elizabeth, connected as
the place is with that monarch’s spirited visit to her troops,
encamped here in 1588, previous to the destruction of the Spanish
Armada. Mounted on horseback, she rode like a heroine through the
lines, addressing the men in speech so animating, as to arouse in
their breasts a degree of enthusiasm, which no Sovereign of the
other sex could have excited. Her reign was indeed a brilliant and
glorious one; and much as the high prosperity of England, during
that period, was to be attributed to her vigour, her constancy, her
magnanimity, her penetration, her vigilance, and her address, which
are the prominent qualities assigned to her by historians, it is a
truly gratifying reflection, that the youthful Sovereign, now
reigning over this great united kingdom, not only possesses in the
highest degree, all these brilliant qualifications for good
government, but that they are her’s, unaccompanied by that pedantry,
cruelty, and intolerance, which so much tarnish the otherwise bright
character of Elizabeth. Happy, then, is the prospect that has dawned
on our country by the auspicous commencement of the reign of a young
Queen, who, whilst not inferior to the great Elizabeth in those
essentials for ruling, has the good fortune to excel her by
possessing all the gentler and more amiable qualities of the woman’s
breast, as much as she surpasses her in feminine beauty.
Flat and tame as Tilbury appears, it assumed a certain air of
importance when the royal salute was fired from its guns, as well as
from the garrison drawn up on its fortifications. The ships and
small craft at Gravesend, of every possible form and rig, were
cruizing about, gay with their clothing of colours of all nations.
The breeze was just enough to swell the sails and to keep the
streamers and flags floating well out in it; and the light and
beautifully shaped cutters, yachts, and pleasure-boats, were seen
moving actively about among the heavier vessels. Here the lively
appearance presented by the piers, terraces, green slopes and
eminences of that pretty town, thronged as they were with crowds of
spectators, was very striking. When the Yacht was about half-a-mile
from it, the Queen again came on deck, with Prince Albert,
apparently for the purpose of gratifying the loyal curiosity of her
subjects, with a view of their Sovereign. She was acknowledged by
their cheers, which came mellowed over the surface of the water,
mingling with the merry sound of bells, and the occasional boom of
the guns from Tilbury, pregnant with recollections of Drake and the
Armada. Immediately after the Yacht had passed through this stirring
scene, the Queen and her Royal Consort again went down into the
great cabin; but it soon appeared that Pier Majesty had no intention
of remaining long below, for by the time the Yacht had got into the
Lower Hope, sofas were placed on deck for her accommodation and that
of the Prince.
When within some three or four miles of the mouth of the Medway, the
river steamers, which had been continuing to venture nearer and
nearer to the Royal Yacht by degrees began to thrust their bowsprits
up abreast of the cabin windows, and at a distance of little more
than twenty yards from those especially appropriated to the Queen
and Prince Albert, who had already found it necessary to shut those
opposite to where they were sitting, exposed to the untamed gaze of
these worthy but rather too curious people. Lord Adolphus
Fitzclarence was sent for by Her Majesty; and when he again
appeared, he smartly ordered the intruders to take a wider berth,
which they very quickly did ; and it was not observed that any of
them were guilty of such indecorum for the rest of the voyage down
the river.
The Queen and the Prince came on deck at twenty minutes to eleven
o’clock, .and occupied the sofas, in full enjoyment of the ocean
view that now opened. The steam having been well got up in both the
towing vessels, they pulled the Yacht through the water in gallant
style, so that the distance from Gravesend to the Nore was very
speedily accomplished. A fresh breeze now rippled the water; and the
various sailing craft careened gently and gaily to its influence.
The sea, however, was quite smooth; and the Queen had all that
enjoyment which the inspiriting onward motion of a vessel, and the
free and unfettered view of the sea, always gives to those not apt
to be less pleasantly affected by them. She looked extremely well;
and the officers of the ship had then, and afterwards, many
opportunities, of satisfying themselves of the reality of that smile
which has been so generally remarked as especially belonging to Her
Majesty, and which is by all allowed to be distinguished for the
peculiar beauty of its expression. The mouth of the Medway opened to
the right, and Sheerness, with its fortifications and its
huge-hulled men-of-war, among which the guard-ship was conspicuous,
appeared at a distance. Right a-head was seen the enormous
Camperdown line-of-battle ship of 110 guns, contrasting beautifully
with the lighter forms of the Pique frigate, and the Daphne
sloop-of-war, all rigged with streamers, ensigns, and flags of every
colour. As the Royal Squadron approached the Nore, the three
ships-of-war manned their yards—a nautical ceremonial than which
nothing can be more imposing, from the manly and athletic forms
which are thus so suddenly placed, rank above rank, rising into the
very skies, and from their hoarse, hearty, and animating cheers.
These three vessels presented a very beautiful appearance, with
their gracefully-moulded hulls—their bright-burnished copper
sheathing—their guns frowning from their ports— their nettings
fitted with white hammock cloths — the tall masts, tapering away,
stick above stick, and spar above spar, to the slender pole of the
royal, where the long pennant quivers in the wind—the yards crowned
with active topmen—the ropes and rigging, which, to a landsman’s
eye, look to be so infinitely tangled below as to be utterly
unintelligible, and scarcely comprehensible above, although there
gradually decreasing in complexity. All these, with the gallant
hearts that man them, and the wisdom and bravery which commands
them, were sufficient to awaken powerful associations in the minds
of those who beheld them doing homage to their passing Queen. Nor
was it possible to forget that this spot had been the scene of that
most alarming mutiny of Britain’s bravest children against their
common mother country, and how much the very existence of that
country among the nations had depended upon its being crushed.
As the Yacht neared the floating light at the Nore, the Queen was in
frequent communication with Lord Adolphus Fitzclarence, and some
signals were made. Her Majesty afterwards took Prince Albert’s arm,
and moved forward to the bows, evidently looking with much
gratification upon the grand spectacle which the Camperdown, the
Pique, and the Daphne presented at this moment. After walking for
several minutes fore and aft, the whole length of the deck, they
resumed their seats. A signal was run up to the
mizzen-topgallant-mast of the Yacht, as the Squadron neared the
Camperdown, and the other two vessels at anchor, and fire began to
flash from their ports, and smoke to curl upwards over their
rigging, as their long lines of floating batteries poured out gun
after gun. During the intervals between the thunder of each
discharge, the shrill boatswain’s whistle was heard. The guns fired
towards the Yacht shook the sea, but those on the opposite side
returned a sound as if from some distant mountain. The guard-ship at
Sheerness joined in the salute, and her guns came like muffled drums
over the wide expanse of water. So great was the number of private
steamers now added to those belonging to the Royal Squadron, that
the coup d'ceil was magnificent, the Iloyal George herself, with her
taper spars, and rigging taught like harp-strings, being the most
beautiful object of the whole. After the salute, Her Majesty was
greeted by deafening cheers. Vice-Admiral Sir Edward Brace came off,
in his barge, from the Camperdown flag-ship, and paid his duty to
Her Majesty. After the last gun, a very ridiculous circumstance took
place. A dapper little steam-boat, from some of the City quays, came
briskly alongside of the Yacht, and, after the usual courtesies, a
pompous order was heard to “fire a royal salute.” Great excitement
took place, followed by the most vociferous laughter, as an
important-looking personage placed himself nearly opposite to Her
Majesty, and with great gravity produced a cord, with a small ball
attached to it, and as it unrolled itself, it discharged regular and
successive shots from a series of percussion caps, which detonated,
one after the other, in royal saluting time, and tossed the ball on
every side, as they went off! This piece of Cockney loyalty was
evidently considered extremely brilliant by their motley company ;
and, combined with the attitude of the gunner who fired this
Lilliputian salvo, and contrasted with the sublime sounds of the
guns from the Camperdowm, it produced so ludicrous an effect, that
it vras difficult for those in the immediate presence of Her Majesty
to control their risible muscles. The Pique and Daphne had prepared
to sail as part of the royal convoy, but the wind being right
a-head, they were left behind.
By a quarter past twelve o’clock the Yacht had got six or seven
miles from the Nore, and the Queen and the Prince had taken up hooks
to amuse themselves. Now it was that the Fame, and the other London
steamers, began to think of returning; but ere they left the Royal
Squadron, they severally came alongside of the Yacht, and greeted
Her Majesty with loud and repeated cheers, which were acknowledged
in the most gracious manner. As the Squadron proceeded, it was met
by numerous steamers, from different parts of the coast, and after
their respective companies had been indulged with a sight of their
Queen, they gave three hearty hurrahs, and then made the best of
their way home.
A fresh breeze of wind arose about four o’clock in the afternoon,
and the crew of the Yacht were ordered aloft to strike the
top-gallant-yards, and to make all snug for the night. The Trident
had hitherto kept company with the Royal Squadron. About six
o’clock, when off Orfordness, Captain Sharpe enquired by signal
whether he could give any aid to Her Majesty, and having been
answered in the negative, he put on his steam, and shot awray
a-head. The Squadron now bore awray down the Swin channel, the Yacht
still towed by the Shearwater and Black Eagle, the other steamers
being arranged two and two on each quarter, whilst the whole were
accompanied by the Vestal Trinity Yacht, which excited great and
general admiration, by the seaman-like manner in which she took up
her position, and kept it throughout the whole of the voyage.
The Maplin Light, which consists of a great iron basket, raised high
in the midst of the sea, upon screw posts, appearing as if built of
old gridirons, was the next object of curiosity that arose in the
Queen’s path over the waves. The channel here is extremely in-trieate
and dangerous, being surrounded by shoals on every side. Such a
place for human beings to work an insulated light in, is not to be
conceived by those who have not seen it, and no one who knows it
will deny, that Her Majesty has therein seen the most extraordinary
abode in her dominions.
The Squadron received a royal salute from Walton le Soken, on the
Naze of Essex, where the rich flat country rises hut little above
the surface of the ocean, and by five o’clock in the afternoon they
came abreast of the entrance to Harwich. Though the approaches to
this harbour are everywhere beset with shoals, and the fairway is
extremely intricate, it is the safest port on the whole eastern
coast, and if the afternoon had not given promise of tolerable
weather, here the Yacht, with its precious freight, must have
reposed for the night. Upon this subject an humble hope may be
permitted to be expressed, that from the voyage of the Sovereign,
her frequent examination of charts, and the numerous enquiries which
the desire of useful information prompted Her Majesty to make, she
must have learned, that from the Thames to Cromarty Bay, no easily
taken harbour of refuge exists,—and that this may lead to the
removal of so great a disgrace from our country, by the execution of
some grand works for the protection of our commerce and marine from
the storms which are often so fatal in the present unprovided state
of the eastern coast. The common embouchure of the Stour and the
Orwell, is capable of holding three hundred sail at anchor, and
among these there might be vessels of the largest size. The town of
Harwich, which defends it on the southern side, and the promontory
of Land guard Fort, which protects it on the other, with the
receding green and tufted slopes within the bay, broken by the
forest of masts arising from the shipping, though seen at some
distance, were objects producing a most pleasing combination when
viewed under an evening sky. The forts saluted, and nearer the eye
there was a moving panorama of dredging vessels employed here in
fishing up a peculiar sort of stone, used for making Roman cement.
Forgetting their occupation for the time, they were cruizing about,
earnestly desiring to be blessed with a sight of their Sovereign.
Two steamers from Ipswich, called the Orion and the River Queen, the
former having the Mayor and authorities of that town on board, came
alongside the Yacht, with bands of music, and greeting Her Majesty
with loud hurrahs. A little beyond this the Yacht passed through a
beautiful line of revenue cruizers, the crews of which smart little
vessels manned their rigging, and lowered their gaff-top-sails and
pennants as the royal standard passed them, whilst hundreds of white
handkerchiefs, waved by the ladies on board, fluttered in the
breeze, and the thrilling cheers of as many manly hearts, proved
their devoted attachment to their Queen. One of the most touching
parts of this spectacle, was a group of beautiful children, who
stretched out their little arms towards their beloved Sovereign, as
if lisping a blessing on her head.
The Yacht now swept nobly on in tow of the two steamers, that
preceded her with the speed of the horses of the car of Neptune, and
like them tossing smoke from their nostrils. The Squadron passed the
half-ruined seaports of Bawdsey, Orford, and Oldborough, of which
the sea has for ages been gradually swallowing up the very
foundations. The ancient Norman castle of Oldborough now stands on a
small eminence, to seaward of which once lay half the town. From all
these places, boats and sailing vessels, and steamers, came out to
pay homage to the Queen. The Oldborough yawls, rowed for a long
distance off the land, and cheered manfully as the Yacht passed them
close alongside.
The setting sun now threw his declining rays over the poor remains
of that which was once the proud capital of East Anglia. Never was
effect of sky more appropriately combined with a scene, for the
whole of its history is one continued sequence of disasters. Some
antiquarians assert, that it once possessed no less than fifty-two
churches and monasteries. The respective sites of many are well
known, but that of All Saints is the only one of which any portion
is now standing. Blessing God that we live under the gentle dominion
of our Queen, it is impossible to think of her passing this ancient
seat of kings and of bishops, without recalling the extraordinary
fact connected with it, that in the first year of the reign of King
John, it received a charter by which its inhabitants were graciously
empowered “to marry their sons and daughters as they pleased, and
also to give, sell, or otherwise dispose of their possessions, as
they should think fit.” This charter, dated at Gold Cliff, 29th of
June, cost them 300 merks, besides ten falcons, and five gerfalcons.
This was freedom indeed! Thankful may we be that we live in times
when no such charter as this is required. Near this is Dunwich, to
which a curious piece of natural history attaches. It is the place
where the swallows chiefly land from abroad, and where they are also
seen to congregate in thousands before taking their annual departure
to hibernate in some other and milder climate.
The night having come on, Her Majesty and Prince Albert retired
below. Some notion of the royal accommodation may be obtained from
the plan and description of the Yacht in the Appendix. The gallant
vessel still pursued her foaming way, and guided by the brilliant
light of Lowestoffe, she passed at midnight around the extreme
eastern point of England, and so by the back of Yarmouth sands, and
through Hasborough Gut, blue lights and rockets being occasionally
thrown up, to inform loyal subjects, who might be awake and on the
watch on shore, that their Queen was passing. |