In order to prove this, let the reader
accompany me to an eminence overlooking East Lothian, and see
for himself whether there be exaggeration in the statement.
Lammerlaw is the most elevated point of the Lammermuir range of
hills, which runs from the east in Berwickshire to join the
Lowthers on the west, forming a fine protecting southern
boundary to the rich Lothian land lying to the north, between
this range and the Firth of Forth. Trace the course of that
little stream, and listen to its self-important clatter among
the stones in its descent to the bonny braes o' Danskin! And see
it now, after meandering round the hill foot, and receiving the
embraces of the mountain tributaries. Its channel widens and
deepens as it laughs in its new born pride, as much as to say,
"Growing at this rate in my course, I shall be able to drive a
mill when I come to the place where a mill may be wanted." Now
it has hidden itself among that splendid foliage, it beautifies
the scene of Yester, the seat of the Marquis of Tweeddale, where
the beautiful Lady Margaret Hay, the present Duchess of
Wellington, was born. The mills of Gifford are beholden to this
burnie, which was born under your feet, but which now is
dignified by the name of the river Tyne. Now it ca's the 'wauk
mill,' and plays aboot the rocks of Eagles Cairnie, owned and
occupied by Colonel Stuart, said to be the only remaining scion
of the royal family of that name. He lost both arms at Waterloo.
Notwithstanding this physical defect, he was the finest skater
on the Tyne. It was a treat to see this tall, straight, armless
figure amusing himself on the ice. Tyne now ornaments the
grounds of Ledington, now called Lennox Love, where Gilbert
Burns was land steward. He lived for many years, and died at
that delightful spot called Grant's braes, situated on a high
bank, overlooking the fine Policy of General Houston, of
Clerkington, on the opposite bank of Tyne. Lennox Love, on the
east bank, is the property of Lord Blantyre. We have traced the
Tyne from its source in the Lammermuir doon to where I first saw
and paddled in it, where its pranks have ofttimes put the
countryside in fear; on one occasion, it rose to an
extraordinarily great height, threatening danger to the town,
which was timely relieved by the stone wall round the Policy of
Amesfield Park giving way.
The estates which it waters below Haddington
are beautiful and historically interesting, which in description
seems to defy exaggeration. Amesfield, the seat of Francis
Charteris, Lord Elcho; Stevenston, the seat of Sir John
Sinclair; Biel, the bonny banks o' Biel, the property of the
Nisbets; the estate of Bienston, Hailes Castle, the Hepburn
property, where Queen Mary staid (I won't say slept), over night
on her unhappy way to Dunbar Castle, which was the parting scene
of that ill-fated lady from her native Scotland. Just below
Hailes is the pretty village of Linton and Linton Linn, "where
a' the de'ils in hell fell in." Here is the model farm of
Phantasy, where the celebrated Sir John Rennie, who built the
iron bridge across the Thames at Southwark and new London
bridge, was born, and as we approach the confluence of the sweet
stream with the larger volume of the Firth, we point out the wee
bit shopie wherein John Rennie served his apprenticeship. Nor
would it be respectful to the Earl of Haddington, to leave the
delightful village of Tyningham, without viewing his holly
hedges, on which he prides himself so much, also his fine
estate, his noble mansion, and the aspect of his stately
grounds. As the village belle on her first visit to a city
marvels at the scant deference paid to her, so the identity of a
cheering stream is lost in wider waters. Pray do not quit your
altitude before justice is done to the grand panoramic view
before you.
On beauty artists love to dwell,
To them a landscape brings a spell,
A bliss denied to ithers,
Except the poet drinking in
The tints o' a' that make a scene;
Nature made them brithers.
For guid sake assume the quality o' ane o'
the brithers if ye hae it not, and do not descend the hill with
an idea that the beauty of East Lothian is confined to the
course of the Tyne, bonny as it is. Look east, where your view
is lost in the German ocean, but do not overlook intervening
points. Notice that big lone hill, sleeping in the rich valley
in the foreground. That is Traprainlaw, which is supposed to
contain gold enough to enrich the county, but which is left by
the owner in its natural aspect to feed his sheep by its velvety
covering, painting their little hoofs into tints of the supposed
metallic substance below. In that true spirit of Scotch
philosophy, he waits the wave of Cal-ifornian enterprise to howk
and open up his treasure; a thing likely in the near future, for
in Lord Hopetoun he has a brave prospecting pioneer within three
miles of him. It is supposed that his Lordship opened up the
Garleton hills in search of the precious metal, and • found,
instead, a richer mine of iron of the finest quality. In the
middle distance you have the picturesque grounds of Belhaven,
and the rugged coast of Dunbar with its burgh, and the ruins of
its historical castle, where Black Agnes defied the Montague,
also the mansion and grounds of the Earl of Lauderdale. A little
to the east lies the battle ground whereon Cromwell secured, by
the defeat of Leslie, the government of Scotland, and blessed by
relieving it for some eight years of the bungling misgovernment
of the Stuarts. Still further east, the romantic ravine, spanned
by the Peasbrig, Coldingham, Eyemouth, and St. Abb's Head. To
the north, we have a richer view still. . The whole course of
the Tyne, and estates it waters, besides those seats of beauty
placed beyond its reach, such as Gosford (Earl of Wemyss),
Lufness, Balancecrief (Lord Elibank), that of Sir James Sutie,
and Balfour of Whitingham; Stuart, of Alderston; Sir Hugh
Dalrymple, North Berwick, and many others all spread out like a
richly variegated carpet fringed on the north by that noble
estuary the Firth of Forth, on a promontory, on which stand the
ruins of Tantallon Castle, the ancient seat of the Douglass,
which Marmion immortalized. Two miles out in the Firth from this
point is the Bass Rock, the last stronghold of the Stuarts; some
fifteen miles further out the island of May. The western view
embraces the estate of Fletcher, of Saltoun Hall, the bonny
braes o' Branxholm, the estates of Seaton, of Caddell of
Cockenzie, of Ormiston, and others, up to the boundary line west
of Preston Grange, taking in the continued line of thriving
villages along the coast, make up a landscape which, when once
seen, never can be forgotten. From Gullen on the east, to
Prestonpans on the west, presents one of the most thriving
scenes of industry to be found anywhere. I cannot bear to leave
East Lothian without a parting word on the unfortunate Mary,
whose treatment at the Court of Elizabeth forms one of the most
heartless > tragedies on record.
Behold the lovely Mary, Scotland's queen!
In ectasy of grief, on Hepburn Lien
That shelter seek, within Haile's castle towers,
Denied her by the legislative powers.
Thence, evil tidings of her adverse war,
In poignant anguish, drove her to Dunbar,
Without a friend to counsel or protect
Her sacred person from the fearful wreck.
Her self-reliance fails. She now must yield,
And place herself behind a Southern shield.
Nor had the suppliant Mary long to wait —
The white-horse rider's ready at the gate.
Willing help th' imperious Tudor gave,
Precursing durance and a bloody grave.
To England's standing on the scroll of fame,
The death of Mary brings the blush of shame!
The reader will excuse an anecdote on taking
leave of the Tyne. On crossing from school one sunny day, over
the Nungate brig, as was my wont, to see the bonnie troots
gamboling in the clear stream, I clambered to the cape-stane,
and there I saw an unco sight—a bairn about four years of age,
lying on its back, in its last efforts to retain the precious
spark, at the bottom of the river. I ran, as prompted, to the
rescue, and succeeded in restoring the child to the embrace of
the anxious parents. This same child was doomed, in one short
half year, to lose its life by violence. On the morning of a
winter day, the poor little fellow, descending the inclined
plane leading from the bridge, slipped on the ice, and fell in
front of one of the. wheels of a laden cart, and was killed on
the spot.