A TRIP TO THE GREEN ISLE.
IN the summer of this year my wife's maternal
uncle, Richard Clements, overjoyed at the recovery, by a simple
process, of his hearing, proposed that he and I should take a
trip to Ireland. No sooner mooted than might have been found
Uncle Clements and
I in the yard of the
Swan-With-Two-Necks inn, Lad lane, London, surmounting the Tally
Ho, the four-in-hand coach for Holyhead, the grandest of all
modes of transit. Over the finest roads and through the richest
scenery in the world we reach the Black Bull Bull-ring,
Birmingham, to experience the old-fashioned landlord's trick of
delaying the meal until the coach is just ready to start,
leaving the hungry traveler no time to do justice to his viands.
In taking a passing peep at Peeping Tom, on our way through the
fine old town of Coventry, we soon arrive at the ancient city of
Shrewsbury, made famous by the questionable veracity of
Falstaff. Through the neat little town of Oswestry we began to
realize that masterpiece of civil engineering of Mr. Telfer; his
road from this point to Bangor, through the romantic scenery of
North Wales; his bridge across the Menai straits, and his road
through Anglesea to Holyhead, being a work at once of beauty and
utility combined. Crossing the channel we experienced rough
weather, and entering the then unfinished harbor
of Kingston, and finding that, in consequence of a promised
grand regatta on the morrow, the hotels were all occupied, we
sheltered (not slept) in sorry accommodation. On our way thither
we were fortunate enough to have a taste of genuine Hibernianism
worthy of remark. My uncle objecting to pay what he deemed an
overcharge for carrying our portmanteaus, the quick reply was,
"Shure, haven't I been waiting for yez for the last two
hours in this cowld night?" Figure to yourself a hackman
charging his fare in proportion to the time his vehicle has been
idle on the stand. It was a kind of eating-house wherein we had
to sojourn for the night, and having resolved to witness the
regatta we ordered breakfast, whereupon the landlord, with a
soiled cloth over his left arm, answered the knock on the table.
"What d'ye plaze to want, gintlemen, for
breakfast?"
"What have you for the morning meal?" He then
glibly dealt out a long list of good things, the burden being
chickens and ham, which he repeated and transformed several
times in the course of his verbal bill of fare. We then ordered
chickens and ham, with tea, for which, with all the patience
that keen appetites could muster, for three-quarters of an hour
we waited in vain. A boy who was left in charge coolly informed
us that his master had gone to his stall at the harbor and taken
the chickens and ham with him. "Ah," said my pawky uncle, "this
comes from too prompt payment. Had we held on to the price of
his beds for awhile our fast might have been broken' in
comparative comfort." The weather for an hour was bright and
clear, long enough to feast our vision on one of the most
beautiful sights I ever beheld. The Bay of Dublin at all times
is one of nature's beauty spots, but on this occasion the scene
was made enchanting by the numberless yachts of the three united
kingdoms floating on its tranquil bosom, all busy in preparation
for the trial of speed on which they were about to start. A
gentle breeze from the north rippled the surface of the bay,
bringing with it the harbinger of disappointment. A small but
growing cloud kissed the summit of the hill of Howth, giving to
the weather-wise unheeded warning of a soaking day. Nor was
suspense of long duration. With the changing speed of a
kaleidoscope the brilliant morning was embraced in gloom. The
glorious bay, with its busy burden, was no longer to be seen,
neither could the outline of the distant hill be drawn, and then
the rain—I have heard of it raining in Glasgow, and tasted of
rain in the Devil's Wash-Basin, a local title given to the city
of Manchester, and both cities are proverbial for the extent of
their rainfall—but the fall of rain that day in Kingston would
be hard to surpass. The fine morning had emptied Dublin of its
heterogeneous masses, who poured into the site of the new harbor
at Kingston by the thousand, and a crowd more mixed never
characterized the annual Derby day at Epsom. One peculiarity I
noticed which goes to distinguish the western gathering from
that of the east, namely, the use of the umbrella. In England
the umbrella is supposed to be the property of the individual.
In Ireland it is public property. Hoisting one of those useful
commodities has the effect of attracting all those within sight
of the holder who might be less fortunate, giving rise to the
most ludicrous scenes, in one of which my jolly uncle was made
to figure as a center. He had placed his back against a huge
block of granite to shelter him from the pelting storm, and to
increase his protection inflated his new bit of silk for the
first time, which was no sooner done than a round dozen of all
sorts of people laid claim to share the privilege with that of
the owner. At first the kind old soul evinced no dislike to this
singular proceeding, so new to him. A Dublin belle of apparent
respectability, elegantly attired in satin, but woefully
drenched with the rain, had placed her back against his rotund
person, affording the old gentleman pleasure in the exercise of
his gallantry in sheltering so fine a lady from the merciless
storm.
"But pleasures are like poppies spread,
You seize the flower, the bloom is shed;
Or like the snow-flake on the river,
A moment white, then gone forever."
Less welcome were the dozen ragged,
rollicking followers of the lady's example, who set up a rude,
noisy bantering, many of their jokes made to appeal to the
risibles of the ungainly crowd at Mr. Clements' expense, making
his confined situation anything but pleasant. Retreat in the
rear was cut off by reason of the granite; the obstacles in
front were nearly as immovable. The old gentleman was very
sensitive to odor, and the packing of so many saturated human
beings so assailed his olfactories that his plight became
unbearable, and with one effort of his burly body he freed
himself of his untoward incumbrance. On our way to the viandless
eating-house for our satchels I confess to the morbid
satisfaction of seeing our host of the empty platter perhaps too
severely punished for the trick he played on us as strangers. He
had improvised a square platform with a pole at each corner. At
the tops of each upright was fastened an unwashed sheet to keep
the sun from his stock in trade. The sheet now, the sunshine
having turned to rain, formed a leaky reservoir of the
superincumbent downfall, and the unsold viands, even the
veritable chickens and ham, uninvitingly lay exposed to the
copious drippings of the extended sheet above, which from its
inverted rotundity threatened to burst every minute. Bidding
adieu to the prolonged scene of discomfort we sought and found
its opposite (after a short ride of seven or eight miles over
the only railroad which Ireland could at that date boast of) in
the Victoria Hotel, Westland Row, Dublin, the landlord, Mr.
Gilbert, a native of Droitwich, England, who for genuine
hospitality could not be excelled. In addition to the home
comforts of his well-managed house, he put himself to
considerable expense and trouble on our behalf in doing the
lions of the city and environs,—the park, the college, the
custom house, the four courts, the castle the pigeon house, the
cathedral, even through the romantic glen called the Dargle
(where Grattan was wont to practice his parliamentary speeches),
to the falls of Powerscourt, in the Wicklow mountains, and other
places of interest. Among other curiosities in Dublin I may
mention that of a new way to pay old debts.
Mr. Mc------held a good situation in London
for some years, during which time he and his family resided near
to us in Peckham. We got to be on intimate terms, when, losing
his berth, he retired to his native Dublin, leaving me his note
for £30 borrowed money. Thinking to dovetail a little business
with pleasure, I put forth an effort to collect this trifle, as
Mr. Mc------was pleased to call it. I had no trouble in finding
my man: would that I could say so of my claim. We were
introduced to good society, one gentleman a prominent lawyer,
his wife's brother. We were cordially invited to spend a week at
his villa in the beautiful village of Darndale, nestling in the
lee of the hill of Howth. A passing visit had to suffice, and we
were for two days handsomely entertained in town, which
doubtless cost double the amount of the debt, but the de'il a
word was uttered in regard to the liquidation of the debt, nor
has a figure been altered in my ledger from that frothy period
to the present day. In speaking of the characteristics of the
people of the sister isle it would be presumptuous on my part to
venture an opinion on a subject which has baffled the skill of
matter-of-fact England for seven hundred years. Can it be that
matter-of-fact measures are unsuited for the governance of a
poetical people? A nation susceptible of wrath by the color of
your handkerchief is not likely to be satisfied with mere bread
and butter, and a sermon preached in the chapel of Dublin
Castle, however orthodox and sublime, will fail to compensate
the mischief effected by the employment of party colors in
Stephens Green. But this savors of the spirit of opinion, for
which I ask the reader's pardon. And now, sister isle, adieu.
Turn not away from us. The undercurrent of the British heart
flows toward you, albeit the surface may tend to obscure the
fact. There is strength in unison, weakness in division. Mills
of deity grind slowly. Every grievance shall be removed. Patient
endurance will win. Let the Celt and the Saxon be reconciled,
that they may yet sit down in harmony together, is the earnest
wish of the neutral subscriber. |