IN looking into the old
ecclesiastical history of Haddington, one is struck with the numerous
monkish establishments which existed in it, and the extent of lands,
mills, and granges that belonged to them.
First.—There was the
Collegiate or Parish Church of Haddington, called St Mary’s. It, in its
day, from its magnificence, was called Lucema Laudonice, or Lamp of
Lothian. The patronage of it belonged to the Prior of St Andrews.
Second.—The Dominican
Monastery of the Blackfriars, which stood where the Episcopal Chapel and
Elm House are built
Third.—There was the
famous Abbey of Haddington, founded by Ada, Countess of Northumberland,
and richly endowed by her. Not a stone of it remains.
Fourth.—St Martin’s
Church, in the Nungate, which belonged to the Abbacy of Haddington, and
whose ruins still remain.
Fifth.—At St Lawrence
House there was a chapel dedicated to St Lawrence; also a lepers’ house
in connection with it, described in old Scottish history as “ be-wast”
the town of Haddington.
Sixth.—A chapel dedicated
to St John, which belonged to the Knights Templar. It stood at the
Custom Stone, opposite John Hume’s tenement.
Seventh.—A chapel,
dedicated to St Catherine, was on the west side of Hardgate Street. It
was taken down and rebuilt as a dwelling-house by the late Mr Andrew
Pringle, and is now the property of Mrs Jamieson.
Eighth. —The chapel of St
Ann’s, at the Custom Stone, in St John Street. The ruins of it were
taken down in 1814.
Numerous old houses
connected with these monastic establishments were in existence not more
than eighty or ninety years ago.
The Collegiate Church of
Haddington, sometimes miscalled Haddington Cathedral, is the oldest and
grandest ecclesiastical building remaining in Haddington, and may be
termed the “chief lion” of the town, ranking in importance in its day
with the celebrated Abbeys of Melrose, Kelso, Jedburgh, &c., although
not so highly finished in its carving and ornamental decorations. It was
granted as an appendage to the Priory of St Andrews by David I. in 1134,
along with its lands, chapels, and tithes, which were considerable,
including the lands of Clerkington and others. It is an object of
interest to strangers who visit Haddington.
It is a common remark
that strangers observe beauties of carving, and beautiful architectural
proportions in it, which dwellers in Haddington, who see it daily or
weekly, do not discern. The western entrance is particularly fine, being
very richly chiselled. The capital of the pillar which divides the porch
exhibits the “Crown of thorns of our Saviour.” The noble ranges of
pillars afford fine specimens of the elaborate work which had been
bestowed on them by their builders.
It was sadly damaged by
Edward I. and Edward III. in their Scottish raids, and the clergy were
rudely molested. In it, during the flourishing days of the Roman
Catholic religion, there were no fewer than ' fifteen altars dedicated
to numerous saints, such as St Duthacus, St Peter, St John the Baptist,
and Our Lady, St Crispin and Crispianus, the Holy Cross, &c. All these
altars had been originally erected, endowed, and consecrated by pious
persons, and they no doubt tended to add to the magnificence of the
establishment. At the time of the Reformation they were all swept away,
and the eastern part of the church was destroyed. The western part was
retained as the Reformed Parish Church.
Owing to long and
continued complaints of the damp, cold, and uncomfortable state of the
church, an agitation commenced as early as 1806 by the Magistrates and
Town Council to have it thoroughly repaired; but owing to the strong
opposition of some of the principal heritors, it was not until 1812 that
the present church was repaired and improved, in the style in which it
remains to this day. The sum which the town had to pay as its share of
the expense was upwards of ^1200. The Earl of Hopetoun, as patron of the
parish, was entitled to the chief and best seat in the gallery, but Earl
James handsomely gave it up, and presented it personally to Provost
Martine, to be kept by the magistrates of the burgh in all time coming.
The magistrates’ seat, in the old church, was formerly in the body of
it, and where the seat belonging to the Alderston estate now is. Mr John
Martine was provost during the time of the repairs, and on their
completion the Town Council unanimously voted thanks to him for the
great perseverance and attention he had uniformly paid in getting the
measure accomplished. It is believed that few burghs have such a
commodious and elegant church as the parish of Haddington possesses. In
the gallery seats at the back of the pulpit, the minister, although well
heard, cannot be seen. Dr Cook used to tell a good story about Mrs
Johnstone, an old woman in the town. On calling on her during one of his
usual visitations, he remarked that he never saw her in church. She
replied that she was there almost every Sunday when she was able, and
never saw him either, although she heard him well. On the Doctor asking
her where she sat, she said—“ Oh, Doctor, I sit in the ‘ believers’
loft/ at the back of the pulpit” Some years ago, an indecisive
controversy was carried on in the columns of the Haddingtonshire Courier
betwixt a celebrated London physician, a native of the burgh, and a
Haddington schoolmaster, as to whether the old Collegiate Church—the
present St Mary’s—or the Dominican Monastery was the real “ Lamp of
Lothian.”
It is perhaps worth while
to notice that the old church remains to this day a line specimen of
ancient mason-work—with carved pillars, windows, doors, and all other
requisites of ornamental decorations—entitling it to hold a place in the
list of the line old cathedral churches in Scotland; and we also know
that the Dominican Monastery was a plain, coarse, though extensive
building, and the stones of it, after it became a ruin, were used in
building the walls which enclose the present Episcopal Chapel and Elm
House, both in front and in Tyne Close, and round the Skinners Knowes,
and on the side of Tyne, and also in the erection of the late Grammar
and English schools. Not one carved or well-dressed stone of any
description can be seen in the walls as at present existing. The stones
are all rough rubble, and are from Garvald, Seggarsdean, or Quarry-pits
quarries—a mixed lot. If the Dominican Monastery had been a grand
ornamental building, worthy of being called the “Lamp of Lothian,”
surely some remains of its carved and ornamental stones should have been
found somewhere in the locality. The Dominican Monastery seems to have
been a building of the same rude and coarse kind as St Martin’s, still
in existence, or old St Ann’s, the stones of which were used in building
the present tenements there. The idea that the Dominican Monastery was
the real “Lamp of Lothian” is contrary to historical and traditional
facts. |