MARKET STREET, or, as it
was formerly called, the Back Street, extends from Tibbiedale and the
Townhouse to Hardgate Street It contains not a few relics of antiquity
and of historical interest to Haddingtonians. An old tenement at the
west end, and opposite the Tolbooth, was long occupied by John Carfrae,
of the Carniehaugh family of Carfraes. He was town treasurer and a
bailie of Haddington in his day, as far back as 1780 and afterwards. He
was an extensive grocer and merchant. The old house had an outshot
projecting into the street, which, from its shape, was called the “saut
backet” At Carfrae’s death, which occurred about the close of last
century, his property was acquired by William Shiells, who for many
years carried on a brewery up the close, and brewed “twopenny,” “groatum,”
and strong ale. A new tenement was built some years ago by the late Mr
Brown, plumber, and the “saut backet” was demolished. Another brewery on
the same side was long carried on by John Winton (“the Earl,”) a
character in his day, and afterwards by Mrs M'Bean. This property now
belongs to the heirs of the late Thomas Burns, plumber.
The Roundel, well known
as an old street mark, and an encroachment on the street, was also in
Market Street It is recorded that when the house was built, the builder
forgot an inside stair—knowingly, it was said—and hence the encroachment
of the Roundel on the street, with its spiral stair inside. In the
Roundel tenement there was for many years a public-house, well
frequented on Friday by farmers and com-dealers; also, a famous
pie-shop, kept by Peter Emlay, an old Haddington man. Miss Emlay, a
daughter of Peter, kept a school for girls in a court at the back of the
Roundel. She deserves notice as having been sent to Greece sometime
about 1826, when a movement was made in Edinburgh by philanthropic
ladies (Mrs Renton was at the head of them) to instruct the young Greek
population in the Christian religion—the spirit of freedom having about
that time arisen in Greece in opposition to the bondage and thraldom in
Turkey. Miss Emlay was said to have been pretty successful in her
endeavours to do good among the Greek girls. Mr Kellie has rebuilt the
house of the Roundel, and added it to his extensive drapery
establishment.
The wheat and bean
markets were long held opposite the present Post-Office, while the oat
and barley markets were held opposite the present Corn Exchange. In wet,
snowy, and cold weather these were very disagreeable stances, compared
with the present comfortable Corn Exchange. The improvement in this case
is very marked. Many a time farmers and sellers on market-days stood
behind their bags with umbrellas over their heads. A very old
public-house, called the Rising Sun, stood where the establishment of Mr
Young, cabinet-maker, was. Like the Heather Inn, in the High Street, it
was an antiquated house, and well frequented on market-days by dealers,
farmers, and others to drink the “couping yill,” “mags,” &c. A very old
house, called Blair’s Castle, stood next to the Courier Office. The shop
was a good many steps up from the street. It belonged to and was long
occupied by Provost M'Claren, grocer and merchant, from 1770 to 1785 ;
afterwards by his son, David M'Claren, a well-known character in his
day, and latterly by James Johnstone, who resigned his office as master
of the Grammar School in 1800. There were large vaulted cellars below
the shop. An old tradition was long current that a subterraneous passage
connected Blair’s Castle with Lethington or Lennoxlove House. No such
passage was, however, discovered in later times. Blair Castle was
rebuilt by Mr Robert Richardson in 1832, and was long occupied by Mr
William Dods as a seed shop and the office of the Western Bank of
Scotland. In old Bailie Hay's tenement (now Mr Kellie’s) there lived for
many years a curious character of the name of John Hannen. An adjutant
of an Irish regiment which lay in the barracks, he settled in Haddington
after he retired from military life. Being a man of means and of a quiet
and facile disposition, he was taken advantage of by some persons who
got him to sign a bill for a considerable amount—they giving him a
five-pound note for his trouble. John declared that he never in all his
life knew such an easy way of getting a five-pound note as by signing
his name; he had been abroad with his regiment, and all through England
and Ireland, but this way of getting money beat all he had seen ! When
the bill, however, became due, and he had it to pay, his joy was turned
into grief, and he declared that had he a hundred sons he would never
teach one of them to sign “holographs.” Mr Hannen died about 1820, and
was buried with military honours in the west end of the churchyard.
The Lodge in Market
Street of the Ancient Fraternity of Gardeners of East Lothian is a place
of old historical interest. The Fraternity was founded previous to 1676,
and always was, as it still is, a large and respectable society. By its
frequent and excellent shows of fruit, vegetables, and flowers among its
members, it has long kept up the taste for cultivating the fruits and
flowers of the earth in the highest state of perfection. It is also
noted for its happy social meetings. An annual procession of the
members, accompanied by symbolic figures of Adam and Eve, dressed up
with flowers and surrounded by all the implements of the gardener’s
craft, and “Jock in the Green/* was in former times regularly kept up,
and looked forward to with great interest by the juvenile as well as the
elder part of the community; while the hare-pie feast about Christmas
time was contemplated with equal pleasure, as it still is, by the
veterans of the fraternity. Old William Nisbet, assisted by his two
sons, John and Wull, officiated for long as “Jock in the Green.” The
office came to be claimed by them as a hereditary right in the family. A
bower-shaped erection, covered with shrubs and flowers, was carried by
William on his head and shoulders, and was supposed to form a
representation of a bower in the Garden of Eden. Like many other old
customs, the Gardeners’ procession and “Jock in the Green ” have been
given up for many years.
The Crown Inn, so long
conducted by Mrs Kemp and her late husband, was for many years before
railway times the refreshment house (for man and beast) of the Eyemouth
and Coldingham fish-cadgers. At an early hour of the morning a score or
more of carts have often been counted opposite the door of the Crown,
and also on their return home. Almost all the east-country carriers used
to put up here.
Up a lane off Market
Street stood the old church of the first United Presbyterian
congregation. The present church was built in 1806. The old church, or
meetinghouse, as they were called in former times, will long be
remembered as the church of the celebrated John Brown, for twenty years
Professor of Divinity of the United Associated Synod. BfcBrown was
placed as first minister of the congregation in 1751, and the following
anecdote relative to his settlement is worth recording:—“When it was
proposed by the congregation to give a call to the afterwards celebrated
John Brown, one of the adherents of the church expressed his decided
opposition. Subsequently to his ordination, Mr Brown waited on the
solitary dissentient, who was menacing to leave the meeting-house. ‘Why
do you think of leaving us? I mildly inquired Mr Brown. ‘Because I don’t
think you a good preacher/ said the sturdy oppositionist ‘ That is quite
my own opinion/ admitted the minister, ‘but the great majority of the
congregation think the reverse, and it would not do for you and me to
set up our opinions against theirs. I have given in, you see, and
I.would suggest you might do so too.’
‘Weel, weel/ said the
grumbler, quite reconciled by Mr Brown’s frank confession, ‘I think I'll
just follow your example, sir.’
It is rare to find so
much talent, ability, and worthiness of character descending in
succession for several generations in one family as in that of this
talented divine. He had four sons all ministers of the Secession
Church:—First, the Rev. John Brown, of Longridge, long known as a
popular minister. His son was the celebrated Dr John Brown, of
Edinburgh, and his son again was Dr John Brown, M.D., author of Rab and
his Friends, &c. Second, Rev. Ebenezer Brown, of Inverkeithing—an
eloquent preacher, and a great divine in his day. Third, Dr Thomas
Brown, of Dalkeith; and fourth, the Rev. George Brown, of North Berwick.
The fifth son was Samuel Brown, merchant in Haddington, who was elected
the first provost after the Burgh Municipal Bill became law, and
originated the East Lothian Itinerating Libraries and the Haddington
School of Arts—both most useful means of diffusing knowledge. His
distinguished son, Dr Samuel Brown, who died, alas! too soon for the
sake of science and philosophy, shed lustre on the name of Brown. Dr
William Brown, of Edinburgh, a distinguished scholar and author, was
also a son of the provost. The late illustrious Rev. John Brown
Patterson, minister of Falkirk, was a grandson of Mr Brown. He will be
long remembered as one of the most distinguished scholars and preachers
of his day. At the time of his premature death (in 1835), he was busy
with a new enlarged edition of his grandfather’s Bible, which was
continued and finished by his brother, the Rev. Dr Alexander Patterson,
the able and esteemed minister of Hutcheson Street Free Church, Glasgow.
Dr John Crombie Brown, our esteemed townsman, has proved himself by his
scientific researches a worthy descendant of his grandfather and father.
Dr Brown’s family were all born in the small house which stands at the
corner of the lane. His stipend at one time did not exceed £40 or £50 a
year. The Rev. Benoni Black succeeded Dr Brown in 1789.
He died in 1828, in the
thirty-ninth year of his ministry. He was a much respected and worthy
man, and was much lamented by his congregation, as well as by friends of
all denominations.
In Market Street, east of
Brown & Murray’s shop, there is a tenement which belonged to the Knights
Templar of St John. A coal-fauld, where the Good Templar Hall is now
built, was for a long time the town’s coalhill—a useful appendage for
small consumers. Mr James Burn, a famous builder and architect in his
day, long occupied the large premises, yard, and mansion-house at the
east end of Market Street. Latterly, his relative, Mr Hay Walker,
carried on the business. Mr Burn (whose nickname was “Old Timmer”) built
a great number of excellent family houses in Haddington and throughout
the county, among which may be mentioned Mr Roughead’s and the late Mr
Banks’s houses in High Street; Mr Todrick’s in Hardgate; as also the
Hopes House, and Newbyth House. His own house still remains a good
specimen of the domestic architecture of old times. It contains a
vaulted kitchen, and there are now only other two of the same kind in
Haddington. The late Mr Ebenezer Black, surgeon, and brother of the Rev.
Benoni Black, lived for many years in this old house.
In Newton Port, where
Messrs Bernard’s malt-house is now, the old flesh-market of Haddington
stood until 1806, when the new market was erected. It would be a great
omission not to take notice of the old and original Secession Church
which was in Newton Port, now a relic of history. Mr Robert Archibald
was the first minister. He was ordained in 1744, and died in 1765. Mr
Lawrence Witherspoon succeeded him in 1766, and died in 1779. Mr Robert
Chalmers was his successor, and died in 1857, in the eighty-third year
of his age and fifty-eighth of his ministry. Mr Chalmers was no ordinary
man in his day. Firm and steadfast to Original Secession and Reformation
principles, he for more than half a century proclaimed the Gospel to an
attached congregation from the town and country— many coming long
distances every Sunday. When the foxhounds and a well-mounted field of
hunters met at the Byres or Garleton Hills, it was remarked that Mr
Chalmers was always there on foot, dressed in top-boots, to see the
hounds thrown off—a scene which he no doubt enjoyed with much energy and
delight. The older and younger Drs M'Crie both married daughters of Mr
Chalmers. The late Rev. William White was appointed Mr Chalmers’s
assistant and successor in 1836.
Knox’s Church has now, by
an arrangement with the Town Council, been converted into the Town’s
Library.
In Newton Port an
old-established public-house and billiard-room was long kept by Tom
Clark, and much frequented by the officers of the barracks. The cavalry
barracks stood in the field known as Clark’s Park, while the infantry
were accommodated in the field to the south of Flora Bank. A row of
houses now taken down stood on the side of the road, and were called
Whisky Row, or Elba. The late Richard Hay, arithmetical master in the
Burgh Schools, when he left office, opened a school at this place in
1814. He used to say he was banished to Elba, like the great Buonaparte.
The Lady’s Well, at the corner of the glebe of the second minister of
Haddington, has been long a wellspring of pure water, and never runs
dry. The origin of the name is, however, unknown.
The burgh from an early
period had the privilege of holding St Peter’s and the Michaelmas fairs
in the fields in Newton Port, which were called the Crofts. There is no
doubt the fairs were held there in olden times, but for many years
past—probably the greater part of a century—the practice has become
obsolete. To keep up the town’s rights, however, the Magistrates used to
order the town officer to open the gates of the fields every term-day
morning. Bailie George Amos was the last magistrate who stood up for the
town’s rights in this matter some twenty-five years ago. The fields in
question are now the property of Mr Todrick, and Mr Thomas Burn’s heirs. |