MANY anecdotes,
traditionally handed down, and stories of persons and events which have
happened in and around Haddington in former times, might be written, and
be interesting in these days. Suppose one starts for a walk from the
West Port of Haddington, and goes the length of St Laurence House, round
by the “Bauk,” and home by the Pencaitland road, he will find, as he
goes along, many things worth recording as relics of the past. The West
Port toll-house stood for many years on the outside of the burgh, and
just about where the monument stands to the memory of the late Robert
Ferguson, Esq., of Raith, elected M.P. for the county in 1835. The
town's customs were collected there, as they still are. A good story is
told of Willie Baird, or “Bairdie” as he was commonly called, which
happened there. Willie was a town-officer, drummer, and a great official
in his day. At that time soldiers on the march frequently passed through
the town. On one occasion some disturbance about payment of custom took
place with the drivers of the baggage-carts, which called for Willie’s
interference.
On being summoned by him
to go before Provost Deans, to answer for their conduct, they refused,
upon which Willie shut and locked the' toll-gate, and thus stopped the
march. The officer in command threatened martial law against Willie for
stopping the march of the king’s troops, but Willie defied his
authority, and asserted that the Provost of Haddington’s authority was
above his. Willie carried his point, and the drivers had to go before
the Provost before they were allowed to proceed on the march. There was
some “spunk” in old “Bairdie.”
On the south side of the
road, above Ferguson’s monument, there stood for many years a good-sized
thatched house, which was called the Riding-School. It has been taken
down within these few years, and the ground levelled to form part of the
monument pleasure ground. The ground was feued from Richard Miller,
merchant in Haddington, afterwards Laird of Bran-dram, for the purpose
of drilling cavalry recruits.
In the days of
cock-fighting, now happily abolished, “mains” were often fought in the
Riding-School, and patronised by Maule of Panmure, Hamilton of Dalziel,
and many others of the same “kidney.” On one occasion, when a great
battle betwixt rival cocks was to take place, a worthy deacon of the
Shoemakers’ Incorporation had got into the pit without leave, and when
he was about to be ejected, he cried out, “If I had only a bit stick I
would not be so easily put out". “Lettie,” a well-known character,
picked up his exclamation, and he was known by the name of the “Bit
Stick” ever afterwards.
The Riding-School and
Smart's Garden were long tenanted by old Smail, and afterwards by Robie
Anderson and his spouse. The present Robie Anderson is still tenant of
the garden and orchard. The Smails and Andersons, old Haddingtonians,
have possessed the same for one hundred and fifty or two hundred years.
Smail’s Pond, with its
abundant supply of pure water, refreshed the weary nags of the
Haddington carters on their return from Edinburgh, &c. Its existence now
is a matter of history, having been filled in by the Gas Company. Davie
Johnston, an old Haddington carter, husband of the famous Nannie
Cairncross, and whose nickname was “Credit,” used to say, on being told
that his horse was thin and poor, “How can it be poor when it stands
always at heck and manger, and gets its fill of Smail’s Pond.”
The strip of ground from
the U.P. Manse to Bellevue was of old, and still is, known by the name
of the “Gallows Green.” Criminals were hanged there long ago, and hence
its name. When digging the foundations for Bellevue House in 1805, a
large stone, with a square hole in it, was found, which was thought to
have been the site of the “gallows tree.”
Witches of old were
burned in the Gallows Green. Sir Walter Scott had no doubt these
atrocious events in his eye when, in his novel of the Bride of
Lammermoor, he describes an interview betwixt old Alice, Ravens-wood,
Henry and Lucy Ashton, in the following words: —“They think,’ said Henry
Ashton, who came up at that moment, and whispered into Ravenswood’s ear,
'that she is a witch that should have been burnt with them that suffered
at Haddington.'
“‘What is that you say,’
said Alice, turning towards the boy, her sightless visage inflamed with
passion; *that I am a witch, and ought to have suffered with the
helpless old wretches who were murdered at Haddington?’”
In an old record of the
burgh which the writer has seen, of date 1500 upwards, it is stated that
a man convicted of stealing cloth at the “Giggen Hill” (near the Byres)
was sentenced to stand at the Gallow Tree for an hour, and afterwards
taken down to the bed of Tyne, and dipped until he was “clean deed.” The
houses built on the Gallows Green pay a yearly feu to the town of
Haddington, which yields a handsome amount of money.
On the banks, betwixt the
Pegh-de-loan and St Laurence House, Sir John Cope's army encamped on the
second night before the battle of Prestonpans.
The carters race, a great
event in its day, was held yearly on the post road, on the Monday after
Haddington Summer Fair-day, 15th July. The starting was from Smail’s
Pond, and the horses ran to St Laurence House and back, and sometimes
round the “Bauk.” “My Lord” and his two bailies, preceded by the town’s
drum and bagpipes, with banners flying, were no small personages on that
day. The procession, in its best days, probably numbered twenty to
thirty riders, and the horses were decked out with flowers and ribbons.
My lord dismounted at the Burgh Schools, and asked the masters to give
the scholars the play to see the races. The worthy masters were no ways
loath, it being alleged that they were as fond of seeing the races as
the scholars. When leave was given —“Boys, you may go” —the scholars
rushed out, with loud huzzas, like bees out of a step, to join the
procession.
Little work was done on
the race day by the tailors, shoemakers, and other craftsmen of the
burgh; all hied off to the race, and regaled themselves, with ale and
whisky in the tents on the “Lots.” The deacons of the crafts began on
the race day to speak about who were to be the new deacons at the usual
yearly election in September, and many an “offering drink” was given to
begin the faction. “Lettie and a' them” were always present at the
races. The race does not now exist, being numbered among the things that
were, and the carters society is also extinct.
At St Laurence House a
leper house once existed, which was erected by order of an Act of the
old Scotch Parliament The Act narrates “that it was to be built at St
Laurence House, bewast the town of Haddington.” The old tenement on the
north side of the road is supposed to have been the “Leprous House."
On the Pencaitland or
coal road is Dobson’s or “Dobie’s" Well. It is fed from the coal
measures which crop out on the Letham lands. It is slightly chalybeate,
cool, pure, and pleasant to drink.
A very pretty story is
told in connection with Dobie’s Well. Andrew Shiells, born at Letham,
was one of the gallant 426 regiment at the battle of Corunna in 1809. He
was severely wounded, and lay for a long time on the field of battle
before he was removed, sick with loss of blood, and faint for want of
water. Old associations came to his recollection, and he cried out in
his distress, “ Oh! I wad gie a* I hae for a drink of Dobie’s Well.** No
doubt Andrew had often in his younger days drunk the pure and cool water
of the well. The well was put into good order and improved a few years
ago by Mr William Briggs, at his own expense. Captain Houston of
Clerkington, the proprietor of it and the adjacent land, has farther
improved it, and made it serviceable to the public, for which he
deserves the thanks of the community. Andrew Shiells served also at the
Cape of Good Hope, under Sir David Baird. In his latter days he plied
the trade of mole-catcher, and on pension days, when somewhat mellow, he
used to shoulder his digging spade, and tell his battle stories to
wondering youngsters.
A good story is told of
the builder of the house at Dobie’s Well, one Geordie Jack. The building
was a contract job, and was very hurriedly and ill put up. The walls
were finished on a Saturday night. On Sunday morning, Geordie went out
to see how they were standing. He was seen plastering up the rents and
cracks, and saying to himself, “A’ cracks and gags— a' cracks and gags.
I wish they may stand until the job is paid for.” The house has now been
taken down.
The "Double Dikes,”
formerly a rugged, dirty water-run, supposed to have been connected with
the old fortifications of Haddington, is now the good road betwixt
King’s Meadows and M'Call’s park.
At the corner of M'Call’s
Park there long stood a wooden house, one of the last remains of the
Haddington barracks, erected in 1803 (when Buonaparte threatened
invasion), and taken down in 1814. M'Call’s Park was got by the burgh,
in Provost Martine’s time in 1813, in exchange for the “Lots,” which lay
alongside the post road, from Governor Houston of Clerkington, acre for
acre; a very good bargain it has turned out for the town.
In old George Kemp’s
thrashing barn, at the West Port, now converted into dwelling-houses, a
theatrical party more than once performed. The writer of this recollects
the tragedy of “Douglas” being played in it, and a grand event it was
for youngsters to witness. Mr and Mrs Stanley were two of the actors.
The Pegh-de-loan, on
which the Gas-work was built in 1836, extended from the Pencaitland road
to the post road. It was a narrow, swampy piece of ground, through which
a burn ran, well suited for growing willows. The first part of the name
has given rise to some discussion among antiquaries. It has been thought
to be derived from the Pechts or Piets. |