THE following stories have been related to me by
James Mackenzie of Kirkton, along with many traditions and facts embodied
in other parts of this book. James Mackenzie is an enthusiastic lover of
family history and local folk-lore, and whilst disowning superstitious
fancies is quite alive to the charms of romance. I have endeavoured to
preserve the words and phrases in which he communicated the stories, and
where the pronoun of the first person is used in the following tales, it
must be taken as coming from his lips.
James Mackenzie was born in
1808, and consequently remembers several of the bards and pipers already
mentioned. His elder brother was John Mackenzie, so celebrated amongst
Gaelic speakers as the compiler of the "Beauties of Gaelic Poetry," and
James shared with his brother the fund of old stories which, in the days
of their youth, they loved to listen to at the "ceilidh," or social meetings, then so generally held during the long
winter nights.
James Mackenzie, who is a direct descendant in the sixth
generation from Alastair Breac, fifth laird of Gairloch, has been a sailor
during much of his life, and still affects the blue neckerchief and dark
serge clothes of the sea-faring man, topped with a Highland bonnet of the
Prince Charlie type. He is short in stature, and has very expressive
features. He has the true Highland esprit, combined with refined courtesy
and faithful attachment to his chief,—qualities which many think are
destined soon to become extinct.
Nearly all the following stories are
strictly Gairloch tales, relating incidents about Gairloch people. The
anecdote of Rob Donn James Mackenzie wished to be included, lest it might
otherwise be lost.
William Roy Mackenzie
"William Roy Mackenzie was stopping at Innis a bhaird.
This was in the eighteenth century, before they commenced making whisky in
Gairloch. William used to go to Ferintosh with his two horses with crook
saddles, carrying a cask of whisky on each side. He always went there
about Christmas. At that time Christmas was observed in Gairloch; now its
observance is given up. William had two horses, a white and a black; one
of them was fastened behind the tail of the other,* the white horse
foremost.' On the other side of Achnasheen there was an exciseman waiting
to catch William on his way home with four casks of whisky. The exciseman
hid himself until William came past. Then he jumped out from his
hiding-place, and caught the white horse by the halter, saying, *' This is
mine.' Says William, * I do not think you will say that to-morrow; let go
my horse.' * No,' says the exciseman. 'Will you let him go,' says William,
' if you get a permit with him ?' ' Let me see your permit,' says the
exciseman, still dragging at the white horse. ' Stop,' says William ; '
let go the horse, the permit is in his tail.' He would not let go ; so
when William saw that, he loosed the black horse from behind the grey,
that he might get at the permit. Then he lifted his stick and struck the
old grey so that he plunged and jumped, and in the scrimmage one of the
casks of whisky struck the exciseman and knocked him down on the ground.
Says William, ' There's the permit for you.' The exciseman lay helpless on
the ground; so William Roy got clean away with all the whisky, and came
home with it to Innis a bhaird."
Kenneth and John Mackenzie of Rona
"One of the Mackenzies of Letterewe had a daughter who
was married to a man in Badfearn in Skye. A daughter of theirs became the
wife of William Mackenzie of Rona, who was one of the Mackenzies of
Shieldaig of Gairloch. He had a son named Kenneth; and Kenneth had two
sons, called Kenneth and John. They were out fishing in a smack of their
own, when they were attacked and taken by the press-gang. They were
carried off, and placed in a hulk lying in the Thames below London. One
night they were together in the same watch, and they then made a plan to
escape. A yacht belonging to a gentleman in London was in the river; she
was out and in every day, and always anchored alongside the hulk. The
gentry from the yacht were going ashore every night, and leaving only a
boy in her. The night the two brothers Kenneth and John were on the watch,
the boy was alone in the yacht. What did they do but decide to carry.out
their plan of escape there and then! So they went through.the gun-ports,
one on each side of the hulk, and swam to the yacht. Then they got the
yacht under weigh, the boy sleeping all the time. They got safe away with
the yacht, and worked her as far as to Loch Craignish, on this side of
Crinan. There they went ashore in the night, and left the yacht with the
boy. They left the yacht's gig ashore in Loch Craignish, and set off on
their way home.
When the laird of Craignish saw the gig, and the
yacht lying in the loch, he went out in the gig to see what kind of yacht
she was. The brothers had left the papers of the yacht on the cabin table,
that it might be found out who she belonged to. So the laird of Craignish
wrote to the owners in London, and advised them to send orders to him to
sell the yacht and send the boy home with the money. The owners did so,
and the yacht was sold. She became the mail-packet between Coll and
Tobermory. I saw her long ago on that service.
"The two brothers, Kenneth and John Mackenzie, got safe
back to Rona, and soon got another smack. They were going south with a
cargo of fish, through the Crinan Canal; the smack was lying in the basin
after you pass the first lock. There was a plank put to the shore from the
gangway of the vessel; by this they went ashore to-the inn at Crinan. A
girl in the house went to the vessel and took the plank out; the two
Mackenzies, on going back to the smack in the dark, for want of the plank
fell into the basin, and were both drowned. They were relations of my
mother. I saw them when I was a boy at Mellon Charles. They were fine
men."
John Macgregor
of Londubh
"John Mackenzie, son of
William Mackenzie, the fourth laird of Gruinard, by Lilias, daughter of
Captain John Mackenzie of Kinloch (or Lochend), was a captain in the 73rd
Regiment in the end of the . eighteenth century. The Gruinard family had
holes and presses in their houses at Udrigil and Aird, where they kept men
whom they had caught until they agreed to enlist in the army. Gruinard got
money for catching men for the army. There was a man in Londubh named
Ruaridh Donn or Rorie Macgregor, of the Macgregors of Kenlochewe; he was
an old man, and was still strong. He had a son, John, who was a very
strong bold man. Gruinard gathered a gang of twelve men to catch John
Macgregor. So Mackenzie Lochend sent him down with a letter to Mackenzie
Gruinard. John went with the letter, and gave it to Mrs Mackenzie,
Gruinard's wife. 'Come in, John,' she said, * till you get some meat
before you go-away to Poolewe.' So John went in, and she made a piece for
him ; she gave him a slice of bread and butter, and put a sovereign
between the bread and butter so that he might get it. When John was eating
he found the gold in his mouth; he put it in his pocket. So when he had
finished eating, he came out of the house to go away home, and there he
saw the gang of twelve men ready to catch him. Mrs Mackenzie told him he
had got the king's money. 'It's not much/ said he; 'I wish I would get
more of it.' Says she, 'You'll get that by-and-by.' 'I'm not so sure of
that,' says John. Then the gang took him. 'If you're going to keep me,'
says John, 'send word to my old father, that I may see him as I pass by;
he is old and weak, and I will never see him again.' So Mrs Mackenzie sent
on word to his father to meet him. John was sent away with the gang, and
as they passed the garden at Londubh, Ruaridh Donn came down to the road
to meet his son, leaning on his staff as if he were weak. 'Good bye! are
you going away, John?' says he. 'Oh yes! goodbye to you, I'll never see
you again' says John. Then the old man got a hold of John, and put him
between himself and the wall. The old man was shaking on his stick. John
lifted his two hands and put them over his father's shoulders, and began
laughing and mocking the gang. So the twelve men dare not go near them,
and they left John to go home with his money.
"Captain John Mackenzie, son of Captain John Mackenzie, Kinloch, and
brother of Mrs Mackenzie, Gruinard, went to Skye to marry a daughter of
the minister of Cambusmore. He went in a boat with a crew of six men, and
Duncan Urquhart, his own valet. John Macgregor was one of the crew. They
went ashore at Port Golaig, near Ru Hunish, the point of Skye furthest
north. The captain and Duncan walked up to Cambusmore, but the crew
stopped with the boat. The captain and Duncan were in the minister's house
all the week. On- the Saturday John Macgregor was sent up to the manse by
the rest of the crew to see what was keeping them. It was late when John
got to the manse. The captain came out and scolded John, asking what
business he had there, and saying he might go away any time he pleased for
all he cared. Then the minister came out, and said John must stop in the
house until the Sabbath, for it would not be safe for him to return to the
boat through the night. But John would go away back, and he fell over the
high rock near Duntulm Castle and was killed. When the minister rose in
the morning, he sent Duncan Urquhart to see if John had arrived at the
boat. When Duncan was going he saw part of John's kilt caught on a point
of rock, and found his dead body below. So Duncan turned to the house and
told the bad news. The minister said to the captain, 'You may go home; you
will not get my daughter this trip.' John Macgregor's body was taken home
in a box, and buried in the churchyard at Inverewe. He left two
•daughters; one of them was married to Murdo Crubach Fraser in Inverkerry,
and was the mother of Kenneth Fraser and John Fraser now living at
Leac-nan-Saighead. A daughter of Murdo Crubach's is the wife of
Christopher Mackenzie, Brahan, and a son of theirs is piper with the
Mackintosh."
Murdo
Mackenzie, or Murdo's Son
"There was
a Mackenzie of an old Gairloch stock living in Ullapool, Loch Broom. He
was called in Gaelic 'Murchadh mac Mhur-chaidh,' or, 'Murdo the son of
Murdo;' I will call him 'Murdo's son.' He was a very fine, good-looking
man, and very brave. He had a small smack, and he was always going with
her round the Mull of Kintyre to Greenock with herrings from Loch Broom.
Returning with the vessel empty, he put into a place called Duncan's Well,
in the Island of Luing, on the other side of Oban. This island belongs to
Lord Breadalbane to this day. Murdo's son went ashore at night.. There was
a ball going on in a house, and Lord Breadalbane's daughter was there. She
fell in love at once with the good-looking Murdo's son, and he fell in
love with her. He took her away with him that very night, and before
daybreak they set sail for Ullapool. When they got to Ullapool they were
married, and he took her to his house at the place now called Moorfield,
where the banker lives in the present day.
"There was no name on Murdo's son's smack at that time; there were no
roads nor newspapers then; and no one knew where the smack had gone with
Lord Breadalbane's daughter, only that she had left with Murdo's son. Lord
Breadalbane could find out nothing more. He went to the king and got a law
made that from that time every vessel should have a name on it; there were
no names on vessels before then in Scotland. Lord Breadalbane offered a
reward of three hundred pounds to any one who would find where his
daughter had gone. When Murdo's son got the report of this reward he
started off at once, dressed in his best kilt and plaid, with his dirk in
his belt, and walked all the way to Lord Breadalbane's castle at Taymouth.
He knocked at the door, and a man came and asked what he was wanting; he
told him he wanted to see the lord. So the man went in, and soon the lord
came in his slippers to the door. He asked Murdo's son what was he wanting
there. He told him he came to tell him where his daughter was, that he
might get the reward. Says the lord, 'You will get the money if you tell
me where, she is;' asked him, 'Where is she?' 'Wel!! says Murdo's son, '
I'll tell that when I get the money.' 'There's your money for you then.'
When he got the money, he said, 'She's at Ullapool, at
Loch Broom, and if you will give me other three hundred pounds I will put
the hand of the man that stole her into your hand.' The lord gave ! him
other three hundred pounds. Says he, ' Keep out your hand.'; 'There,' says
he, putting his hand in the lord's hand, 'is the hand that took your
daughter from the Island of Luing;' and Lord Breadalbane was so pleased
with his pluck and appearance, that he accepted him as his son-in-law, and
gave him the full tocher (or dowry) of his daughter. I remember seeing
their son and daughter; the daughter married John Morrison, who was the
farmer at Drumchork, about 1850.
"Murdo's son
was going in the same smack with herrings from Loch Broom to sell them.
After coming round the Mull of Kintyre he anchored at Crinan for the
night. There was lying there a lugger full of gin and brandy;" she had
been captured near Cape Wrath by a government cutter; the crew had been
put ashore at Cape Wrath. Six men of the cutter's crew were bringing the
lugger to deliver her at Greenock. She came alongside Murdo's son at
Crinan, as she was going south and he coming north. Murdo's son asked
them, 'What craft is that?' They told him it was a smuggler they had
caught at Cape Wrath. ' Surely you have plenty drink on board,' says he.
'Oh, yes,' they said, ' she is choke full.' Says he, ' You
had better
all of you come over and see if the stuff I have is better than what you
have got.' So they came over, all hands, to his smack. He tried the jar he
had, and made them all drunk. They could not leave his cabin. When they
were in this state he and his .crew went to the lugger, took possession of
her, and set sail, leaving her drunken crew in his own smack. Murdo's son
came to Ullapool with the lugger, and when he had taken the cargo out of
her he set fire to her and destroyed her. A son of Murdo's son was married
to Mrs Mackenzie of Kernsary before Mr Mackenzie married her, and had two
sons, both now dead, and buried in Cil-lean, in Strath Garve.
"Donald Morrison, of Drumchork, was a grandson of
Murdo's son and Lord Breadalbane's daughter. He went to see the Lord
Breadalbane of his day, a descendant of the lord whose daughter was
married to Murdo's son. Lord Breadalbane gave Donald Morrison three
hundred pounds when he went to the castle. Rorie Morrison also went to see
Lord Breadalbane, but he did not get anything. Donald was a very fine,
tall, handsome man, and looked grand in his kilt and plaid; there was no
one like him in the country, so good-looking and so well shaped for the
kilt!"
Anecdote of Sir
Hector Mackenzie
"The law that a name
should be put on every vessel brings to my mind an anecdote of Sir Hector
Mackenzie of Gairloch. Macleod of Raasay had a boat that had no name on
her when the law was made requiring names. So the boat was taken from him,
and he was cited to a court at Inverness, that he might be fined for not
putting a name on the boat. When Sir Hector heard of this he went to the
court. Macleod was there; the judge told him he was fined so much for not
having the boat named. Sir Hector said, "Macleod's boat is the coach to
his house, and he can never get home without it, and if you are going to
fine him for not having his boat named, you must put a name on your own
coach when you go out.' Said the judge, l If that be the case he can go
home.' Thus Macleod got clear."
Mackenzie Kernsary and my Grandfather
"I can remember Mr and Mrs Mackenzie of Kernsary. They
lived in the house where I now live. Rorie, as Mackenzie Kernsary was
called, was a strange eccentric man ; he died a good while before his
wife, and was buried in the chapel in the Inverewe burial-ground close by.
They had only one son, Sandy, and it was he who built the house at Inveran;
he was married to a daughter of the Rev. Roderick Morison, minister of
Kintail, the best-looking woman in the north of Scotland at that time; her
nephew is the present minister of Kintail. Sandy had three sons and three
daughters. One son became Established Church minister at Moy; one daughter
married Mr Mactavish, a lawyer in Inverness ; another daughter married one
Cameron, a farmer; and another son was at sea. My grandfather, John
Mackenzie, was a cattle drover; he was always going through the country
buying cattle ; an old Hielan'man, with his blue bonnet and old Hielan'
coat. He bought cattle between Pooiewe and Little Loch Broom. At times he
bought a large number. One james Mackenzie's Gairloch stories. One time he
went to the Isle of Gruinard and bought a fat grey cow from one Duncan
Macgregor there. He sent a man on with the drove to Gairloch to go to the
market, and stopped behind himself that day. When the cows were passing
Londubh, Mackenzie Kernsary was out on the brae ; he saw the cattle
passing, and he asked the man with them to whom did they belong. The man
replied, 'To John Mackenzie, the drover/ ' Oh!' says he, 'they could not
belong to a better man. You'll turn that grey cow up here till I kill her
for Mrs Mackenzie.' ' No,' says the herd, ' that'll no be the case ; we'll
know which is the best man first.' 'That tells you that the cow will be
mine,' says Kernsary. And so it was; Mackenzie took the cow from him,
drove her to the byre, got the axe, and killed her in a minute. He went in
and told Mary his wife to send a man to bleed the cow before it would get
cold. So Mary said, 'What cow is it?'; ' Never mind,' says he, 'you'll
know that before Saturday.' And so she did. The old drover himself came by
next day. Mrs Mackenzie saw him passing, and called him up. She took him
into the house and gave him a glass of mountain dew. Then she told him
what her husband did yesterday on a grey cow of his, and that she was
going to pay him. She asked, him what was the value of the cow. He
replied, ' Nothing but what I paid for it;' and she paid him."
The Whale in Loch Ewe.
"In the year 1809 Loch Ewe was the most famous loch
known for haddock. Boats came even from the east coast, from Nairn and
Avoch; indeed until the following occurrence Loch Ewe was unrivalled in
the north of Scotland for its haddock fishing.
"It was a beautiful day, and all the boats were fishing
on the south-west side of Isle Ewe opposite Inverasdale. A new boat was
put off the stocks at Mellon Charles, and was taken out that day for the
first time. Seven men went out in her, viz., Duncan Mackenzie, Ronald
Mackenzie, Rorie Maclean, Murdo Mackenzie, Donald Maclennan, John
Chisholm, and Hector Macrae, all Mellon men. They went to the back of
Sgeir an Fharaig, much further out towards the open than the other boats.
It was so calm the oars were laid across the boat. Suddenly they saw a
whale coming in from the ocean making straight at them. One of the men
suggested they had better put the oars straight and pull out of her way.
And this they did ; but as they worked to one side, the whale cut across
straight after them, and soon came up with them. She struck the boat in
the bow, and made a crack about a yard long in the second plank above the
keel. Six oars were then manned, and, with one man keeping his coat to the
crack, they rowed for their lives; but as the crack was in the bow, the
water forced itself in notwithstanding the efforts of the man with his
coat. They were making for the nearest land, when the boat filled. When
Ronald, who had been a soldier, saw this, he stripped and jumped overboard
to swim for it. He swam some distance when the whale struck him below; so
then he turned back to the water-logged boat. When he reached the boat,
three of the men had been drowned, viz., Murdo Mackenzie, Donald Maclennan,
and John Chisholm. After that the whale disappeared, or at least ceased to
molest them. It was a small whale.
"A man at
Mellon Charles had noticed the incident; he ran through the township to
procure help ; but no boat was to be found, and there were only women and
children at home. He went as far as Drumchork; there an old boat was
found, that had been turned keel up for two years. Seven men were found to
attempt an expedition for the rescue of the wrecked fishermen. They had
only one oar, and on the other side of the boat worked bits of board,
whilst two of the men were employed baling. In this way they reached the
water-logged boat, and rescued the four survivors of its crew. Ever since
this fatal occurrence it has been the popular belief in the country that
whales attack new boats or newly-tarred boats. When the boat was got
ashore a large piece of the whale's skin was found in the crack in the
bow."
A Story of Rob Donn
"Rob Donn, the great Reay bard, was bard and
ground-officer to Mackay Lord Reay, in the middle of the eighteenth
century. He would always be going out with his gun, and secretly killing
deer. Lord Reay found this out, and sent for Rob. He said, * I'm hearing,
Robert, you are killing my deer.' 'Oh, no,' says he, 'I am not killing
them all, but I am killing some of them; I cannot deny that.' Lord Reay
then said, 'Unless you give it up, I must put you away out of the place;
you must get a security that you will not kill any more.' ' Oh/ says Rob
to him, ' I must go and see if I can get a surety.' So he left the room.
Outside the door he met Lord Reay's son. ' Will you,' said Rob to the boy,
' become security for me that I will not kill more deer on your father's
property ?' ' Yes,' replied the boy. Rob caught him by the hand and took
him to Lord Reay. ' Is that your security, Robert?' said his lordship. '
Yes,' said Robert, ' will you not take him ?' ' No, I will not,' answered
his lordship. ' It is very strange,' replied Rob, * that you will not take
your own son as security for one man, when God took his own Son for all
the world's security.' It need scarcely be added that Rob Donn remained
bard and ground-officer to Lord Reay. This story I believe to be perfectly
true."
The Lochbroom
Herring Fishing
"About ninety years
ago the British Fishery Society built the pier at Ullapool, and the
streets of unfinished and unoccupied houses there which to this day give
it the appearance of a deserted town. There were great herring fisheries
then in Lochbroom, and Wood-house from Liverpool started a large curing
establishment in Isle Martin ; so did Rorie Morrison at Tanera, and
Melville at Ullapool. The Big Pool of Loch Broom was the best place for
herrings in Scotland at that time, and there would be a hundred and fifty
ships from all parts to buy herrings there,—from Saltcoats, Bute, and
James Mackenzie's Gairloch stories.
Helensburgh, Greenock and Port Bonachie, East Tarbert and West Tarbert.
Melville built two ships in Guisach, which he named the 'Tweed' and the 'Riand.'
That place was full of natural wood at the time; it was in a rocky spot at
Aultnaharril, opposite to Ullapool, where the ferry is. Melville was bound
to take the herrings from alL the fishermen's boats. They were so
plentiful that he could not cure them all, so he made middens of them, and
he also boiled quantities for the oil from them. After that season
Lochbroom was nineteen years without a hundred herrings in it, and the
fishery has never recovered to this day."
The other Rob Roy Macgregor
"Kenneth Mackenzie, the last laird of Dundonneli of the
old family, was descended from the first Lord Mackenzie of Kintail, and
was a connection of the Gairloch Mackenzies. He was a peculiar man; he had
a large flock of hens, and used to make every tenant pay him so many hens
at the Martinmas term along with their rent. My grandfather's brother,
Sandy M'Rae, who was tenant of the Isle of Gruinard, had to pay four hens
every year to the laird. Kenneth Mackenzie, in 1817, married Bella,
daughter of one Donald Roy Macgregor, belonging to Easter Ross; they had
no family, She had a brother called Rob Roy Macgregor, who was a lawyer in
Edinburgh. When Kenneth was on his deathbed his wife and Rob Roy wanted
him to leave the Dundonneli estate to the latter. The dying laird was
willing to do so, because he did not care for his only brother Thomas
Mackenzie; but he was so weak that he could not sign his name to the will,
and it is said that Rob Roy Macgregor held the laird's hand with the pen,
and that the wife was keeping up the hand while Rob Roy made the
signature. The laird died soon after, and left nothing at all to his
brother Thomas. When the will became known there was a great feeling of
indignation among all the Mackenzies and the gentry of the low country, as
well as among the tenantry on the Dundonneli estates, against Rob Roy
Macgregor, who now took up his residence at the old house of Dundonnell.
The whole of the tenantry were opposed to him, except one man at Bad-luachrach
named Donald Maclean, commonly called Donald the son of Farquhar. He was
the only man that was on Rob Roy's side. His neighbours made a fire in the
bow of his boat in the night time and burnt a good part of it. He sent the
boat to Malcolm Beaton, a cousin of his own at Poolewe, to repair it; the
night after it was repaired (whilst still at Poolewe) there was a fire put
in the stern, and the other end of her was burnt. The Dundonneli tenants
rose against Rob Roy Macgregor, and procured firearms; they surrounded the
house, and fired through the shutters by which the windows were defended,
hoping to take his life; one ball or slug struck the post of his bed. The
next night he escaped, and never returned again. His barn and his stacks
of hay and corn were burnt, and the manes and tails of his horses were cut
short. Thomas Mackenzie commenced law against Rob Roy Macgregor for the
recovery of the estate. In the end it was decided that it belonged to him,
but it had become so burdened by the law expenses that it had to be sold."
Cases of Drowning in Loch Maree
"It would be before 1810 that Hector Mackenzie of Sand
was living in a house at Cliff, on the west side of the burn at Cliff
House. Sir Hector Mackenzie of Gairloch had given him lands at Inveras-dale.
He went up Loch Maree in a boat to fetch wood to build a house close to
the shore at Inverasdale. He took for a crew his son Sandy, a young lad,
and also William M'Rae from Cove, and William Urquhart, called William Og,
and his son, who lived at Bac Dubh. They reached Kenlochewe and loaded the
boat. Just before they started back, Kenneth Mackenzie, a married man, and
Rorie Mackenzie, a young man, who were returning to Gairloch with hemp for
nets, asked for a passage down the loch. Hector said there was too much in
the boat already. He was not for them to go in the boat, so they went off;
but William Og said to Hector, 'You had better call the men back; you
don't know where they will meet you again.' William Og called for them to
come back. Kenneth Mackenzie came back, but Rorie would not return; he had
taken the refusal amiss, and it was good for him that he had done so. The
boat with the six of them started from the head of Loch Maree. Opposite
Letterewe she was swamped, from being so heavy. All hands were lost except
William M'Rae and Sandy the son of Hector, they were picked up by a boat
from Letterewe.
"Two sons of Lewis M'lver, of
Stornoway, came to Kenlochewe on their way back from college. It was
before the road was made from Gairloch to Poolewe. They took a boat down
Loch Maree. Four Kenlochewe men came with them; they were all ignorant of
sailing. Between Ardlair and the islands there was a breeze, and they put
the sail up. One of the Kenlochewe men stretched himself upon the middle
thwart of the boat; a squall came, and he went overboard head foremost and
was drowned.
"Kenneth Mackenzie from Eilean
Horrisdale and Grigor M'Gregor from Achtercairn were employed sawing at
Letterewe. They were put across to Aird na h'eighaimh, the promontory that
runs out from the west shore of Loch Maree to near Isle Maree, by a boat
from Letterewe. One of them had a whip saw on his shoulder. On landing
they started to walk to Gairloch. There was then no bridge over the river
at Talladale. The stream was swollen by rain; they tried to wade it, but
were carried off their legs and taken down to the loch, where they were
drowned. Their bodies were never recovered. This was more than eighty
years ago.
"Donald Maclean from Poolewe and
John M'lver, called John M'Ryrie, and often known as Bonaparte, from his
bravery, were in a sailing boat in Tagan bay at the head of Loch Maree,
when a squall upset the boat. John M'Ryrie went down, and was drowned.
Donald Maclean got on the keel of the boat. Rorie Mackenzie had a boat on
the stocks at Athnanceann. She had only seven strokes in her, but there
was no other boat, so they took her down to the loch, and Donald Maclean
was saved by means of her. John M'Ryrie's body was recovered, and buried
in the Inverewe churchyard.
"It would be about
1840 that Duncan and Kenneth Urquhart, two brothers from Croft, sons of
Kenneth Urquhart the miller, were coming down Loch Maree one Saturday
evening after dark. There was smuggling going on in the islands at that
time. It was a very dark night, and there was a stiff breeze blowing down
the loch and helping to propel the boat. Duncan was rowing the bow oar,
and Kenneth the other. Duncan called to his brother to go to the stern and
steer the boat with his oar. Kenneth jumped on the seat in the stern, and
from the way that was on the boat, and his own spring, he went over the
stern. He called to Duncan, but he had only the one oar left, and with the
wind so strong he could do nothing for his brother, so Kenneth was
drowned. His body was found nine days afterwards in the middle of Loch
Maree ; the oar came ashore at a spot called Ah Fhridhdhorch, or 'the dark
forest,' where the scrubby wood now is near a mile to the north of Ardlair.
Duncan came ashore with the boat on the beach in Tollie bay.
"When Seafbrth bought the Kernsary estate some forty
years ago Mrs MTntyre was living at Inveran. It was after Duncan Fadach
had lived there. Two years after Seaforth made the purchase he sent two
lads to repair the house at Inveran. One of them was Sandy Mackenzie from
Stornoway. The two lads went to bathe at the rock called Craig an t'
Shabhail, or ' the rock of the barn,' where the river Ewe begins ; there
was a barn long ago on the top of this rock. Immediately Sandy entered the
water he went down, and was drowned. The other lad hastened to the house,
and a sort of drag was made with a long stick and a crook at the end of
it, and with this the body was lifted. Sandy was of the stock of George
Mackenzie, second laird of Gruinard, who had thirty-three children.
Sandy's brother is the present Free Church minister of Kilmorack."
The Stornoway Packet and the Whale
"The smack 'North Britain,' Captain Leslie, was
carrying the mails between Poolewe and Stornoway for eighteen years.
Leslie had four of a crew besides himself. Murdo Macdonald was at the helm
when the smack struck a whale. She was running with a two-reefed mainsail
and slack sheet. She ran on the back of the whale and cut it through to
the backbone; seven feet was put out of the cutwater of the packet; it was
a severe stroke! When the smack ran up on to the back of the whale her
stern went under to the companion. The whale sank down, and so the smack
went over her, but made so much water in the hold that they were obliged
to run her ashore. They got her to Bayhead, inside the pier at Stornoway.
The whale went ashore in Assynt, and they found the cut on her. I had this
account from Leslie and others of the crew."
The Wreck of M'Callum's Schooner at Melvaig
"About 1805 John M'Callum, a decent man from Bute, had
a schooner and carried on a trade in herrings; he had been to Isle Martin.
He had one pound in cash to purchase every barrel of herrings with. The
herrings were so plenty he got them for five shillings a barrel. He had a
smack called the ' Pomona' as well as the schooner, and he would be
sending the smack to Greenock with cargoes of herrings whilst he stayed at
Isle Martin curing herrings. At the end of the season, as there was a
great demand for small vessels, he sold the * Pomona' for three hundred
pounds to Apple-cross men. Then he himself started home in the schooner,
with a crew of seven sailors. He came to Portree from Isle Martin, and
left Portree for home, intending to go through Kyleakin. When he got
through the sound of Scalpay it came on a hurricane from the south. The
vessel would not take the helm, and became unmanageable. She was running
down the coast in that state, and at last the wind shifting to the west
put her on the rocks at Melvaig. The mate went to M'Callum, who was in the
cabin, and told him to come up, that they were going to be lost, and he
should try and get ashore. M'Callum was old and weak, and replied that he
was so frail that he would have no chance, and that his days were gone at
any rate; so he remained below. One of the crew went out on the jib boom,
and as she struck he let himself down by a rope from the jib boom to a
shelf on a rock, and was quite safe. Another of the crew jumped out, but
could not get ashore on account of the surf. The Melvaig people saw him
swimming a mile off; then he turned back; he seemed to be a good swimmer;
when he was in the surf and saw a big sea coming, he would dive through
it; at last he disappeared. The ship went to pieces, and all hands were
lost except the man who had got on the shelf of rock. All the bodies were
washed ashore, and were buried in Melvaig, near the house of Murdo
Mackenzie, called Murdo Melvaig. A Melvaig man, named John Smith, stripped
the sea boots from one of the bodies and took them home with him. When the
man who was saved heard this, he said it would have been enough for him to
take them off when he was alive! The man who came ashore told the Melvaig
people that the three hundred pounds realised for the sale of the '
Pomona/ as well as the balance of the money the captain had- had to buy
herrings, was in a box. The captain had had one pound to buy each barrel
of herring, and as he had only to pay five shillings a barrel he must have
had nearly four hundred pounds balance. The whole of the money was found
in a box, as the man had said. The man went away home, but he did not get
the money with him."
A
Sea Captain Buried in Isle Ewe
"About
twelve years ago some gentlemen in a steam yacht came to Isle Martin, and
inquired there whether any one knew of a place where the captain of a ship
had been buried in one of the Summer Isles. They thought he,had been
buried in one of the small islands james Mackenzie's Gairloch stories off
Loch Broom. They offered fifteen pounds to any one who could inform them,
but no one could tell them anything of the place. Here is the true account
of this captain and his death and burial. It was about 1822 that I was
living with my father in Mellon Charles house. A schooner going to
Newcastle with bars of brass put in for shelter to the sound of Isle Ewe.
She lay opposite the dyke on the island; that is still the safest
anchorage, the best holding ground in a storm. Two of the crew came ashore
at Aultbea, and said the captain had got ill, and they were seeking a
doctor; there was no doctor then in the country. My father used to go and
see some who would be sick, and would bleed them if they would require it.
So the two sailors were told to go to him, and they took him out to the
schooner. He found the captain lying dead in his cabin, and there were
cuts in different parts of his head as if he had been killed by his men.
He was buried in the old churchyard in the Isle of Ewe, still enclosed by
a dyke; there is a headstone yet standing at his grave. No other sea
captain has been buried in this district for many years, except John
M'Callum, John M'Taggart, and this captain buried in Isle Ewe."
The Loss of the "Glenelg."
"It was about 1825 that the mail-packet called the 'Glenelg
of Glenelg' was lost. A year before that the Right Honourable Stewart
Mackenzie, who had in 1817 married Lady Hood, the representative of the
Seaforth family and proprietrix of the Lews, bought the ' Glenelg' to ply
with the mails between Poolewe and Stornoway. Poolewe is the nearest port
on the mainland to Stornoway. ' There had been packets on the same service
generations before. The ' Glenelg' was a smack of about sixty tons. Her
crew consisted of two brothers, Donald and John Forbes, and a son of
Kenneth M'Eachainn, of Black Moss (Bac Dubh), now called Moss Bank, at
Poolewe. Donald was the master, and John the mate. She was going to
Stornoway about once every week, but she had not a fixed time. It was on a
Saturday, either the end of November or beginning of December, that the
Rev. Mr Fraser, who was minister of Stornoway, returned to Poolewe from
the low country. He had come down Loch Maree in a boat. The master of the
' Glenelg' was ashore at the inn, which was then at Cliff House. Mr Fraser
came to Donald Forbes, and told him he would require to be at Stornoway
that evening to preach on the morrow. Donald said it was not weather to
go. Mr Fraser said he would prosecute or punish him for not going; then
Donald said he should take care before he would not punish himself, and
that he knew his business as well as Mr Fraser knew his own. At last Mr
Fraser persuaded him to go; and there were two other passengers, Murdo
M'lver from Tigh na faoilinn, who was going to be a Gaelic teacher in a
parish near Stornoway, and Kirstie Mackenzie from Croft. They started
about nine o'clock in the morning, with two reefs in the mainsail. Donald
M'Rae from Cove was out on the hill for a creel of peats and saw the '
Glenelg' loosing some of her canvas after going out of Loch Ewe. Nothing
more was seen of her. M'Iver's box was washed ashore at Scoraig in Little
Loch Broom, and two handspikes and the fo'scuttle. Another packet was
afterwards put on the same service."
Wreck of the "Helen Marianne" of Campbelton
" John M'Taggart from Campbelton had a smack called the
* Helen Marianne.' He used to come to Glen Dubh buying . herrings, and he
had two fishing boats of his own worked with the smack. I saw him in Glen
Dubh when I was fishing there; it would be about 1850. One Sabbath night
he left Loch Calava at the entrance to Glen Dubh, and set sail for home,
thus breaking the Sabbath. A storm from the north-east came on, and in the
night he struck on the Greenstone Point, at the other side of Oban, or
Opinan, there, and all hands were lost. Donald Mackenzie and Kenneth
Cameron, the elder of the church, both living in Sand, had the grazing of
Priest Island. On the Tuesday they went out to that island to see the
cattle, and there they found the dead body of John Taggart, along with an
empty barrel. They thought he must have been washed off the deck, as the
vessel had been carried past Priest Island before she was wrecked. They
brought the body to Sand, and buried it in the churchyard with the rest of
the crew, whose bodies were all recovered. There would be six or seven of
them in all, for the crews of the fishing boats were with the smack, the
two boats being on deck, one on each side."
Wreck of the "Lord Molyneux" of Liverpool
"Farquhar Buidhe, who was one of the Mathesons of
Plockton, and brother of Sandy Matheson the blind fiddler there, was the
owner and master of the trawler * Lord Molyneux/ a smack he had bought at
Liverpool. He used to come to Glen Dubh for the herring fishery. It was
two or three years before the wreck of the ' Helen Marianne' of Campbelton
that Farquhar set sail for home one Sabbath night. Before daylight he was
lost upon a rock at the end of the island of Oldany. These two ships were
both lost from Sabbath-breaking."
John Macdonald, the Drover of Loch Maree
"It was about 1825 that John Macdonald lived at
Talladale. He was a cattle drover, and was always known as 'The drover of
Loch Maree.' He was a fine tall man ; I remember seeing him. He wore a
plaid and trousers of tartan, and a high hat. He used to go to the Muir of
Ord market with the cattle he bought in Gairloch. At that time large
quantities of smuggled whisky were made in Gairloch and Loch Torridon.
John Macdonald got the loan of an open boat at Gairloch. She was a new
boat, with a seventeen foot keel; I remember seeing her. He worked her
round to Loch Torridon, and then he took a cargo of whisky for Skye. Two
Torridon men accompanied him. A storm came on from the south or
south-west, and they could not make Skye. The boat was driven before the
wind till she reached the shore of Assynt, on the south side of Stoir
head. There they came ashore ; the boat was found high and dry, and quite
sound, above high-water mark. John Macdonald and his companions were never
seen again, and some Assynt men said that they had been murdered for their
whisky. Assynt was a wild country then, and long before."
The Murder of Grant, the Peddler
"It was about 1829 there lived in a house some three
hundred yards above the present parks at Tournaig a man named Grant. He
had three sons, William and Sandy, and another, who was the youngest,
whose Christian name I forget. He was a peddler, a good-looking lad, about
twenty-three years of age at the time. He used to carry his pack on his
back through the country. He often went to Assynt, and was acquainted with
one M'Leod, who lived near Loch Nidd, to the north of Stoir head. M'Leod
was a kind of teacher; he was a great favourite with the women. Grant, the
peddler, was stopping in a house near M'Leod's, and M'Leod was seeing him.
One morning, after breakfast, Grant left his lodgings to walk across to
Lochinver with his pack on his back. M'Leod joined him, to convoy him out
of the township. When they were out of sight of the houses M'Leod struck
the peddler with a small mason's hammer, which he had concealed in his,
breast. He struck him at the back of the ear, and killed him clean. When
M'Leod saw the peddler was dead, he would have given three worlds to have
made him alive again, as he afterwards said; but it was too late. M'Leod
put the body in a small loch, still called from this circumstance Loch
Torr na h' Eiginn, or ' the loch of the mound of violence,' and he put
stones on the body to keep it from floating. A man in the township had a
dream that the peddler had been murdered and put in this loch, and he went
with his neighbours and found the body there. The neighbours thought this
man had killed Grant, because he knew where the body was. The poor man was
apprehended, and taken to the gaol at Dornoch, where he was kept for a
year, and his sufferings caused his hair to come from his head. He was
not/set free till M'Leod confessed the murder. The men of the place were
all anxious to find out the murderer of the peddler, that they might clear
their own families.
"M'Leod, soon after the
murder, hid the peddler's pack in a stack of peats. He took part of the
goods out of it to give to some of his sweethearts, of whom he had too
many! The girl that was in the house where Grant had lodged had taken
notice of the contents of the pack. She saw some of the things after the
murder with a girl who was a neighbour, and whom M'Leod was courting. She
said to this girl, ' It must have been you, or some one belonging to you,
that killed Grant.' This girl was taken to Dornoch gaol, and another girl
who was seen with a piece of cloth that had been in Grant's pack was also
taken to gaol. The neighbours were all against each other, trying to
discover the murderer. At last these two girls gave evidence that they had
received the things from M'Leod, and upon their testimony he was found
guilty of the murder before the judge at Inverness. He would not confess
to the murder, until the Rev. Mr Clark, minister of a church in King
Street, in Inverness, who was attending on the condemned man, worked upon
him so that he told the whole truth. It was not until this confession that
the man who had had the dream was released from Dornoch gaol. Poor man, he
never got over it. M'Leod was hung at Inverness, and on the gallows he
sang the fifty-first Psalm in Gaelic. The two brothers of the murdered
peddler, and their sister, who had married a MacPhail, got up a ball at
Inverness on the night M'Leod was hung. It was a foolish thing."
Death of the Shieldaig Shoemaker and his
Companions at Lochinver
"It was long
after the murder of Grant, the peddler, in Assynt, that three men from
Shieldaig of Applecross went in their smack to fish with long lines for
cod at Lochinver. One of them was a shoemaker. It is said that they came
ashore to the inn there. After their return to the smack, three days
passed without any smoke from the vessel, and the people on shore did not
know what was the cause of it. So they went to see what was wrong, and
they found the three men dead, two of them among the barrels in the hold,
and one at the hearth in the fo'castle, They came ashore, and a letter was
sent to M'Phee, the fishing-officer at Shieldaig of Applecross, reporting
the case. Three Shieldaig men went first to Lochinver and brought the
vessel home. I saw them as they passed Poolewe. Some thought that the
three fishermen had had poison given them in the inn. After the
disappearance of John Macdonald, the Loch Maree drover, and his two
companions, and the murder of Grant the peddler, in Assynt, it was
considered dangerous for men from Gairloch and the neighbourhood to visit
that wild country."
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