As it is from Perth that
nearly all visitors arrive at Dunkeld. the first scene which will
attract their notice is the pass of Tiirnam, turning the gate to the
Highlands in this quarter Mr. Pennant's witticism, that Birnam wood has
never recovered the march which its ancestors made to Dunsinane, is
still true. Yet the contrast which this wild and bare scenery afford* to
that which is shortly to follow, is perhaps, on the u hole,
advantageous. Nor is the scene itself uninteresting; from the height and
abi aptness of the hills on each side, the huge, bare and broken faces
ot grey rock, and the depth of shadow which is thus thrown oil this
narrow and wild pass, contrasting with the noble river as it wanders
deep below, through rich and overhanging trees, till, reaching the more
open valley, it meanders among the rich and ornamental grounds of
Murthly. The artist will find, in the latter spot, scenes not unfitted
tor his pencil.
Those also who are
interested in the fashionable pursuit of mineralogy, will here find ol>-jects
well worthy their attention, in the junctions of the red sandstone, in
the trap rocks, and ;n the slate; in the inclined and reversed positions
of the strata, in the quarries themselves, and in the minerals which
they contain. The most remarkable of these arttremolite, brown spar,
bright red felspar, chlorite, and oxidilious iron, the chlorite being
often crystallized, and the iron ore disposed in slender scaly ribbons,
so as to form very beautiful specimens. Under the rocks on the left
hand, the botanist will also find the rare Pteriacrispa in great
aliundanie.
From this first point of
the pass, the road presents various beauties, which it is only necessary
thus generally to mention: and that, merely for the sake of those, who.
intent on some distant object, are apt to pa*s unnoticed that which ha=
not been indicated to them. But the first complete view of Dunkeld which
is obtained, after descending the hill, must be especially pointed out;
because it is to be enjoyed in perfection, only by quitting the road to
take a more elevated position. This will be found on a rocky knoll of
oak cop* pice, at the right hand, and behind Birnam inn. Hence, a view
well adapted for a picture can be procured, with all the necessary
accompaniments of a fore and middle ground ; the wooded and rocky hills
which bound Dunkeld to the north, forming the back ground; and the town
with its cathedral, bridge, and river, hurried among the dark shade of
luxuriant trees, adding lite and variety to the whole.
The bridge is a
singularly elegant structure, in which no expense Las been spared to
unite taste and magnificence with convenience. It was commenced in 1805,
and opened in 1808; before which period there was no communication but
by a ferry boat at Inver. This place, and the country in general, art
indebted for it, principally to the -spirit and liberality of the Duke
of Atholl. The total expense was £'42,000. Of this, the public advanced
£5,500. The tolls granted towards the remainder- are adequate to *be
interest of £16,000 only; so that his Grace's gratuitous advances amount
to upwards of £'20,000. The length of this bridge is 685 feet, its
breadth 37, and its greatest height from the foundation 54. There are
live principal and two land arches; the span of the central one being 90
feet, and the others, in succession, 85, 75, and 26.
While the elegant form of
the bridge of Dunkeld renders it, in itself, a subject for the pencil of
the artist, it adds incalculably to the interest of the various scenes
into which it enters. As an architectural object, it affords a bond of
union to the scattered houses' and the cathedral, and a contrast to the
rich wooded scenery by which it is every where surrounded; while in
giving an eye and centre to so many pictures, its mellow breadth of grey
light relieves the dark colour of the trees which skirt the banks of the
river and cover the surrounding hills.
Bui the traveller must
not even pass the bridge, without pausing to admire a view which the
artist wilt gladly transfer to his portfolio; although labouring under
the defect of containing no foreground In every thing else, the picture
is as perfect as could be desired, nor will the absence of foreground be
remarked by any but him w ho feels the want of it to complete his
drawing. The cathedral is here displayed in a very picturesque and
favourable point of view« foreshortened, and relieved by the deep dark
green of the trees around it, and taking off the attention from that
part of the town immediately under the eye, which is rather too
conspicuously displayed. The grounds of Dunkeld park rise behind,
overtopped by Craig-y-barns, in a manner the most varied and rich that
can be imagined ; while the extreme distance is constituted by the bold
features of the long woody ridge of Craig Vincan, which, from whatever
point of view, is always a principal object in this scenery Perhaps,
however, the chief beauty of this picture consists in the river; which,
grand and highly ornamented as it every where is, scarcely offers any
point of view superior, if equal, to this. As it retires from the eye in
a prolonged and varied perspective, silent, smooth, and dark, its source
seems lost in the deep woods and rocky recesses of the lofty hills by
which it is overshadowed: on each hand, trees of endless variety, in
colour, form, and disposition, skirt its margin, often feathering down
into the dark water, and blending with their own reflections so as to
conceal its boundaries; unless where some line of silvery light,
gleaming on an occasional ripple, or the rising of a fish, betrays, by a
sparkle, the presence of the dark brown water gliding unsuspected under
the overshadowing banks.
It will fall to the lot
of few travellers to arrive at Dunkeld by the Cupar road; and I must
therefore direct those to whom that entrance is unknown, to some points
of view which give infinitely the most perfect conception of the scenery
of this place, and which, at the same time, afford by much the most
complete pictures, in point of composition, variety, and effect, which
can be obtained throughout the whole of this brilliant spot. The tourist
would not grudge the time bestowed on this expedition, even were it far
greater; but two hours are more than sufficient for the whole.
It is necessary to
proceed on this road, as far as the slate quarries of Newtyle, a
distance of about a mile and half: but those who have time, may extend
their ride as far as Stenton and Dungarthil, which afford some good
scenes for the pencil. The different views of Dunkeld will, however,
only be discovered in returning; as the spectator turns his back on them
in going, 50 as seldom to be able to catch the precise points whence
they are seen to the greatest advantage.
The first of these views
is found close to the farm house near the quarry; the foreground being
constituted by some fine beach trees, and by the high wooded banks of
the river, which runs deep below. There is something singular in the
aspect of Dunkeld from this spot: the whole very much resembling a scene
viewed through an inverted telescope.
The next to be mentioned,
is unquestionably the most perfect picture which Dunkeld presents;
whether we consider the complete geographical notion which it conveys of
the form and distribution of the ground, or its composition and
picturesque character. The best point of view is from the coppice ground
just above Oakwuod cottage, and on the left hand side of the road. The
sweep of the river is here very noble, and is terminated by the bridge,
which forms the centre of the picture, as well as its mo=t conspicuous
object. The cathedral rising over it, with the grey town and the house
of Dunkeld, adds breadth and value to that mass of scattered
architecture which is the {joint of reference and unity for the whole of
this splendid scene. Nothing can well Ik- finer than the bold and varied
line which the distance forms on the sky, nor richer than the mixture of
dark wood and rock, broken into numerous recesses, and catching
alternately strong lights and deep shadows, by which this barrier of
hills is covered. Woods, single trees, hill, and meadow, disposed in the
most varied, and contrasted in the most perfect manner, constitute a
middle ground, in which the indented and highly ornamental margins of
the river still hold the most conspicuous place.
This principal picture
becomes changed and varied in many ways, in drawing nearer to the town;
each point furnishing a new subject to the artist, from the great
alterations which take place in the middle and foregrounds: although the
distance remains little changed. These cannot fail to catch the eye from
the very road but by entering the ground of Oakwood cottage, and taking
the river banks for a foreground, two or three distinct pictures will be
found, even n a more perfect style of composition than those obtained
from the road itself.
The spectator ought also
to take a position on the hill towards the right hand, beyond the
cottage just mentioned. The point of view lies in a very picturesque
road, which ascends under the edge of a fir wood, and which offers good
foregrounds. Here also a very beautiful view of Dunkeld is procured ;
end if resembling that last described, it is yet sufficiently varied to
produce a distinct picture. Those who chose to prolong their walk for
half a mile, to the top of the hill, will also obtain a view of the
valley and Lochs of the Lowes, which will well repay their trouble.
In returning to the town,
the walk may also be varied by following the ancient highway; passing by
a beautifully situated farm, and descending into Dunkeld over a somewhat
incommodious piece of hilly road. The view of the town and the
surrounding ground, is however very fine from this point; and even
though the traveller should not chose to make the little expedition thus
described, a quarter of an hour will be well occupied in walking from
his inn to the point in question. |