New route to Kaministiquia—Vivid
sketch of Fort William—"Can-tine Salope"—Lively
Christmas week—The feasting partners— Ex-Governor
Masson's good work—Four great Mackenzies—A literary
bourgeois—Three handsome demoiselles—"The man in the
moon"—Story of "Bras Croche"—Around Cape Horn—Astoria
taken over—A hot-headed trader—Sad case of "Little
Labrie" —Punch on New Year's Day—The heart of a "Vacher."
The union of the opposing
companies from Montreal led to a great development of
trade, and, as we have already seen, to important
schemes of exploration.
Roderick McKenzie, the cousin of
Sir Alexander, in coming down from Rainy Lake to Grand
Portage, heard of a new route to Kaministiquia. We
have already seen that Umfreville had found out a
circuitous passage from Nepigon to Winnipeg River, but
this had been considered impracticable by the
fur-traders.
Accordingly, when the treaty of
amity and commerce made it certain that Grand Portage
had to be given up, it was regarded as a great matter
when the route to Kaministiquia became known. This was
discovered by Mr. Roderick McKenzie quite by accident.
When coming, in 1797, to Canada on leave of absence,
this trader was told by an Indian family near Rainy
Lake that a little farther north there was a good
route for large canoes, which was formerly used by the
whites in their trading expeditions. Taking an Indian
with him, McKenzie followed this course, which brought
him out at the mouth of the Kaministiquia. This proved
to be the old French route, for all along it traces
were found of their former establishments. Strange
that a route at one time so well known should be
completely forgotten in forty years.
In the year 1800 the North-West
Company built a fort, called the New Fort, at the
mouth of the Kaministiquia, and, abandoning Grand
Portage, moved their headquarters to this point in
1803. In the year after the union of the North-West
and X Y Companies the name Fort William was given to
this establishment, in honour of the Hon. William
McGillivray, who had become the person of greatest
distinction in the united North-West Company.
As giving us a glimpse of the
life of "the lords of the lakes and forests," which
was led at Fort William, we have a good sketch written
by a trader, Gabriel Franchere, who was a French
Canadian of respectable family and began life in a
business place in Montreal. At this stage, says a
local writer, "the fur trade was at its apogee," and
Franchere was engaged by the Astor Company and went to
Astoria. Returning over the mountains, he passed Fort
William. His book, written in French, has been
translated into English, and is creditable to the
writer, who died as late as 1856 in St. Paul,
Minnesota.
Franchere says of Fort William, rather
inaccurately, that it was built in 1805. This lively
writer was much impressed by the trade carried on at
this point, and gives the following vivid description
:—
"Fort William has really the
appearance of a fort from the palisade fifteen feet
high, and also that of a pretty village from the
number of buildings it encloses. In the middle of a
spacious square stands a large building, elegantly
built, though of wood, the middle door of which is
raised five feet above the ground plot, and in the
front of which runs a long gallery. In the centre of
this building is a room about sixty feet long and
thirty wide, decorated with several paintings, and
some portraits in crayon of a number of the partners
of the Company. It is in this room that the agents,
the clerks, and the interpreters take their meals at
different tables. At each extremity of the room are
two small apartments for the partners."
"The back part of the house is
occupied by the kitchen and sleeping apartments of the
domestics. On each side of this building there is
another of the same size, but lower; these are divided
lengthwise by a corridor, and contain each twelve
pretty sleeping-rooms. One of these houses is intended
for the partners, the other for the clerks.
"On the east side of the Fort
there is another house intended for the same purpose,
and a large building in which furs are examined and
where they are put up in tight bales by means of a
press. Behind, and still on the same side, are found
the lodges of the guides, another building for furs,
and a powder magazine. This last building is of grey
stone, and roofed in with tin. In the corner stands a
kind of bastion or point of observation.
"On the west side is seen a range
of buildings, some of which serve for stores and
others for shops. There is one for dressing out the
employes; one for fitting out canoes; one in which
merchandise is retailed; another where strong drink,
bread, lard, butter, and cheese are sold, and where
refreshments are given out to arriving voyageurs. This
refreshment consists of a white loaf, a half pound of
butter, and a quart of rum. The voyageurs give to this
liquor store the name 'Cantine Salope,'
"Behind is found still another
row of buildings, one of which is used as an office or
counting-house, a pretty square building well lighted;
another serves as a store; and a third as a prison.
The voyageurs give to the last the name 'Pot au beurre.'
At the south-east corner is a stone shed roofed with
tin. Farther back are the workshops of the carpenters,
tinsmiths, blacksmiths, and their spacious courts or
sheds for sheltering the canoes, repairing them, and
constructing new ones.
"Near the gate of the Fort, which
is to the south, are the dwelling-houses of the
surgeon and resident clerk. Over the entrance gate a
kind of guard-house has been built. As the river is
deep enough at its entrance, the Company has had quays
built along the Fort as a landing-place for the
schooners kept on Lake Superior for transporting
peltries, merchandise, and provisions from Fort
William to Sault Ste. Marie, and vice versa.
"There are also on the other side
of the river a number of houses, all inhabited by old
French-Canadian voyageurs, worn out in the service of
the North-West Company, without having become richer
by it. Fort William is the principal factory of the
North-West Company in the interior and a general
rendezvous of the partners. The agents of Montreal and
the proprietors wintering in the north nearly all
assemble here every summer and receive the returns,
form expeditions, and discuss the interests of their
commerce.
"The employes wintering in the
north spend also a portion of the summer at Fort
William. They form a great encampment to the west,
outside the palisades. Those who are only engaged at
Montreal to go to Fort William or to Rainy Lake, and
who do not winter in the North, occupy another space
on the east side. The former give to the latter the
name 'mangeurs de lard.' A remarkable difference is
observed between the two camps, which are composed of
three or four hundred men each. That of the 'mangeurs
de lard' is always very dirty and that of the
winterers neat and clean."
But the fur-traders were by no
means merely business men. Perhaps never were there
assemblages of men who feasted more heartily when the
work was done. The Christmas week was a holiday, and
sometimes the jollity went to a considerable excess,
which was entirely to be expected when the hard life
of the voyage was taken into consideration. Whether at
Fort William, or in the North-West Company's house in
St. Gabriel Street, Montreal, or in later day at
Lachine, the festive gatherings of the Nor'-Westers
were characterized by extravagance and often by
hilarious mirth. The luxuries of the East and West
were gathered for these occasions, and offerings to
Bacchus were neither of poor quality nor limited in
extent. With Scotch story and Jacobite song,
intermingled with "La Claire Fontaine" or "Malbrouck
s'en va," those lively songs of French Canada, the
hours of evening and night passed merrily away.
At times when they had been
feasting long into the morning, the traders and clerks
would sit down upon the feast-room floor, when one
would take the tongs, another the shovel, another the
poker, and so on. They would arrange themselves in
regular order, as in a boat, and, vigorously rowing,
sing a song of the voyage; and loud and long till the
early streaks of the east were seen would the rout
continue. When the merriment reached such a height as
this, ceremony was relaxed, and voyageurs, servants,
and attendants wore admitted to witness the wild
carouse of the wine-heated partners.
We are fortunate in having the
daily life of the fur-traders from the Lower St.
Lawrence to the very shores of the Pacific Ocean
pictured for us by the partners in the "Journals" they
have left behind them. Just as the daily records of
the monks and others, dreary and uninteresting as many
of them at times are, commemorated the events of their
time in the "Saxon Chronicle" and gave the material
for history, so the journals of the bourgeois, often
left unpublished for a generation or two, and the
works of some of those who had influence and literary
ability enough to issue their stories in the form of
books, supply us with the material for reproducing
their times. From such sources we intend to give a few
sketches of the life of that time.
We desire to express the greatest
appreciation of the work of ex-Governor Masson, who is
related to the McKenzie and Chaboillez families of
that period, and who has published no less than
fourteen journals, sketches of the time; of the
painstaking writing of an American officer, Dr. Coues,
who has with great care and success edited the
journals of Alexander Henry, Jr., and such remains as
he could obtain of David Thompson, thus supplementing
the publication by Charles Lindsey, of Toronto, of an
account of Thompson. We acknowledge also the patient
collection of material by Tassé in his "Canadiens de
L'Ouest," as well as the interesting journals of
Harmon and others, which have done us good service.
VALUABLE REMINISCENCES.
The name of McKenzie (Hon.
Roderick McKenzie) was one to conjure by among the
fur-traders. From the fact that there were so many
well-known partners and clerks of this name arose the
custom, very common in the Highland communities, of
giving nicknames to distinguish them. Four of the
McKenzies were "Le Rouge," "Le Blanc," "Le Borgne"
(one-eyed), and "Le Picoté" (pock-marked). Sir
Alexander was the most notable, and after him his
cousin, the Hon. Roderick, of whom we write.
This distinguished man came out
as a Highland laddie from Scotland in 1784. He at once
entered the service of the fur company, and made his
first journey to the North-West in the next year. His
voyage from Ste. Anne, on Montreal Island, up the
fur-traders' route, was taken in Gregory McLeod &
Co.'s service. At Grand Portage McKenzie was initiated
into the mysteries of the partners. Pushed into the
North-West, he soon became prominent, and built the
most notable post of the upper country, Fort
Chipewyan.
On his marriage he became allied
to a number of the magnates of the fur company. His
wife belonged to the popular family of Chaboillez, two
other daughters of which were married, one to the
well-known Surveyor-General of Lower Canada, Joseph
Bouchette, and another to Simon McTavish, "Le
Marquis."
Roderick McKenzie was a man of
some literary ability and taste. He purposed at one
time writing a history of the Indians of the
North-West and also of the North-West Company. In
order to do this, he sent circulars to leading
traders, and thus receiving a number of journals, laid
the foundation of the literary store from which
ex-Governor Masson prepared his book on the bourgeois.
Between him and his cousin, Sir
Alexander Mackenzie, an extensive correspondence was
kept up. Extracts from the letters of the
distinguished partner form the burden of the
"Reminiscences" published by Masson. Many of the facts
have been referred to in our sketch of Sir Alexander
Mackenzie's voyages.
For eight long years Roderick
McKenzie remained in the Indian country, and came to
Canada in 1797. Some two years afterward Sir Alexander
Mackenzie left the old Company and headed the X Y
Company. At that time Roderick McKenzie was chosen in
the place of his cousin in the North-West Company, and
this for several years caused a coolness between them.
His "Reminiscences" extend to
1829, at which time he was living in Terrebonne, in
Lower Canada. He became a member of the Legislative
Council in Lower Canada, and he has a number of
distinguished descendants. Roderick McKenzie closes
his interesting "Reminiscences" with an elaborate and
valuable list of the proprietors, clerks,
interpreters, &c, of the North-West Company in 1799,
giving their distribution in the departments, and the
salary paid each. It gives us a picture of the
magnitude of the operations of the North-West Company.
TALES OF THE NORTH-WEST.
Few of the Nor'-Westers aimed at
collecting and preserving the folk-lore of the
natives. At the request of Roderick McKenzie, George
Keith, a bourgeois who spent a great part of his life
very far North, viz. in the regions of Athabasca,
Mackenzie River, and Great Bear Lake, sent a series of
letters extending from 1807 onward for ten years
embodying tales, descriptions, and the history of the
Indian tribes of his district. His first description
is that of the Beaver Indians, of whom he gives a
vocabulary. He writes for us a number of tales of the
Beaver Indians, viz. "The Indian Hercules," "Two Lost
Women." "The Flood, a Tale of the Mackenzie River,"
and "The Man in the Moon." One letter gives a good
account of the social manners and customs of the
Beaver Indians, and another a somewhat complete
description of the Rocky Mountains and Mackenzie River
country. Descriptions of the Filthy Lake and Grand
River Indians and the Long Arrowed Indians, with a few
more letters with reference to the fur trade, make up
the interesting collection. George Keith may be said
to have wielded the "pen of a ready writer." We give
his story of
THE MAN IN THE MOON.
A Tale,
or Tradition, of the Beaver Indians.
"In the primitive ages of the
world, there was a man and his wife who had no
children. The former was very singular in his manner
of living. Being an excellent hunter, he lived
entirely upon the blood of the animals he killed. This
circumstance displeased his wife, who secretly
determined to play him a trick. Accordingly one day
the husband went out hunting, and left orders with his
wife to boil some blood in a kettle, so as to be ready
for supper on his return. When the time of his
expected return was drawing nigh, his wife pierced a
vein with an awl in her left arm and drew a copious
quantity of blood, which she mixed with a greater
quantity of the blood of a moose deer, that he should
not discover it, and prepared the whole for her
husband's supper.
"Upon his return the blood was
served up to him on a bark dish; but, upon putting a
spoonful to his mouth, he detected the malice of his
wife, and only saying that the blood did not smell
good, threw the kettle with the contents about her
ears.
"Night coming on, the man went to
bed and told his wife to observe the moon about
midnight. After the first nap, the woman, awaking, was
surprised to find that her husband was absent. She
arose and made a fire, and, lifting up her eyes to the
moon, was astonished to see her husband, with his dog
and kettle, in the body of the moon, from which he has
never descended. She bitterly lamented her misfortunes
during the rest of her days, always attributing them
to her malicious invention of preparing her own blood
for her husband's supper."
INTERESTING AUTOBIOGRAPHY.
Among all the Nor'-Westers there
was no one who had more of the Scottish pride of
family than John McDonald, of Garth, claiming as he
did to be descended from the lord of the isles. His
father obtained him a commission in the British army,
but he could not pass the examination on account of a
blemish caused by an accident to his arm. The
sobriquet, "Bras Croche" clung to him all his life as
a fur trader.
Commended to Simon McTavish, the
young man became his favourite, and in 1791 started
for the fur country. He was placed under the
experienced trader, Angus Shaw, and passed his first
winter in the far-off Beaver River, north of the
Saskatchewan. Next winter he visited the Grand
Portage, and he tells us that for a couple of weeks he
was feasting on the best of everything and the best of
fish. Returning to the Saskatchewan, he took part in
the building of Fort George on that river, whence,
after wintering, the usual summer journey was made to
Grand Portage. Here, he tells us, they "met the
gentlemen from Montreal in goodfollowship." This life
continued till 1795.
He shows us the state of feeling
between the Companies. "It may not be out of the way
to mention that on New Year's Day, during the
customary firing of musketry, one of our opponent's
bullies purposely fired his powder through my window.
I, of course, got enraged, and challenged him to
single combat with our guns ; this was a check upon
him ever after."
Remaining in the same district,
by the year 1800 he had, backed as he was by powerful
influence, his sister being married to Hon. William
MacGillivray, become a partner in the Company. Two
years afterward he speaks of old Cuthbert Grant coming
to the district, but in the spring, this officer being
sick, McDonald fitted up a comfortable boat with an
awning, in which Grant went to the Kaministiquia,
where he died.
In 1802, McDonald returned from
Fort William and determined to build another fort
farther up the river to meet a new tribe, the
Kootenays. This was "Rocky Mountain House." Visiting
Scotland in the year after, he returned to be
dispatched in 1804 to English River, where he was in
competition with a Hudson's Bay Company trader. In the
next year he went back to the Saskatchewan, saying
that, although a very dangerous department, he
preferred it. Going up the south branch of the
Saskatchewan, he erected the "New Chesterfield House"
at the mouth of the Red Deer River, and there met
again a detachment of Hudson's Bay Company people.
In 1806 he, being unwell, spent
the year chiefly in Montreal, after which he was
appointed to the less exacting field of Red River. One
interesting note is given us as to the Red River
forts. He says, "I established a fort at the junction
of the Red and Assiniboine Rivers and called it
'Gibraltar,' though there was not a rock or a stone
within three miles." As we shall see afterwards, the
building of this fort, which was on the site of the
city of Winnipeg, had taken place in the year
preceding.
With his customary energy in
erecting forts, he built one a distance up the
Qu'Appelle River, probably Fort Esperance. While down
at Fort William in the spring, the news came to him
that David Thompson was surrounded in the Rocky
Mountains by Blackfoot war parties. McDonald
volunteered to go to the rescue, and with thirty
chosen men, after many dangers and hardships, reached
Thompson in the land of the Kootenays.
McDonald was one of the traders
selected to go to Britain and thence by the ship Isaac
Todd to the mouth of the Columbia to meet the Astor
Fur Company. He started in company with Hon. Edward
Ellice. At Rio Janeiro McDonald shipped from the Isaac
Todd on board the frigate Phoebe. On the west coast of
South America they called at "Juan Fernandez, Robinson
Crusoe's Island." They reached the Columbia on
November 30th, 1813, and in company with trader
McDougall took over Astoria in King George's name,
McDonald becoming senior partner at Astoria.
In April, 1814, McDonald left for
home across the mountains, by way of the Saskatchewan,
and in due time arrived at Fort William. He came to
Sault Ste. Marie to find the fort built by the
Americans, and reached Montreal amid some dangers. The
last adventure mentioned in his journal was that of
meeting in Terrebonne Lord Selkirk's party who were
going to the North-West to oppose the Nor'-Westers.
The veteran spent his last days
in the County of Glengarry, Ontario, and died in 1860,
between eighty-nine and ninety years of age. His
career had been a most romantic one, and he was noted
for his high spirit and courage, as well as for his
ceaseless energy as a trader.
TWO JOURNALS AND A DESCRIPTION.
James McKenzie, brother of Hon.
Roderick McKenzie, was a graphic, though somewhat
irritable writer with a good style. He has left us "A
Journal from the Athabasca Country," a description of
the King's posts on the Lower St. Lawrence, with a
journal of a jaunt through the King's posts. This fur
trader joined the North-West Company.
In 1799 he was at Fort Chipewyan.
His descriptions are minute accounts of his doings at
his fort. He seems to have taken much interest in his
men, and he gives a pathetic account of one of these
trappers called "Little Labrie." Labrie had been for
six days without food, and was almost frozen to death.
He says: "Little Labrie's feet are still soaking in
cold water, but retain their hardness. We watched him
all last night; he fainted often in the course of the
night, but we always brought him to life again by the
help of mulled wine. Once in particular, when he found
himself very weak and sick, and thought he was dying
he said, 'Adieu; je m'en vais; tout mon bien a ceux
qui ont soin de moi.' 10th, about twelve o'clock,
Labrie was freed from all his agonies in this world."
McKenzie evidently had a kind heart.
The candid writer gives us a
picture of New Year's Day, January 1st, 1890. "This
morning before daybreak, the men, according to custom,
fired two broadsides in honour of the New Year, and
then came in to be rewarded with rum, as usual. Some
of them could hardly stand alone before they went away
; such was the effect of the juice of the grape on
their brains. After dinner, at which everyone helped
themselves so plentifully that nothing remained to the
dogs, they had a bowl of punch. The expenses of this
day, with fourteen men and women, are: 61½ fathoms
Spencer twist (tobacco), 7 flagons rum, 1 ditto wine,
1 ham, a skin's worth of dried meat, about 40 white
fish, flour, sugar, &c."
McKenzie had many altercations in
his trade, and seems to have been of a violent temper.
He found fault with one of the X Y people, named
Perroue, saying it was a shame for him to call those
who came from Scotland "vachers" (cowboys). He said he
did not call all, but a few of them "vachers." "I
desired him to name one in the North, and told him
that the one who served him as a clerk was a 'vacher,'
and had the heart of a 'vacher' since he remained with
him."
McKenzie has frequent accounts of
drunken brawls, from which it is easy to be seen that
this period of the opposition of the two Montreal
Companies was one of the most dissolute in the history
of the fur traders. The fur trader's violent temper
often broke out against employes and Indians alike. He
had an ungovernable dislike to the Indians, regarding
them simply as the off-scourings of all things, and
for the voyageurs and workmen of his own Company the
denunciations are so strong that his violent language
was regarded as "sound and fury, signifying nothing."