A young Highlander—To rival Hearne—Fort
Chipewyan built— French Canadian voyageurs—Trader Leroux—Perils
of the route —Post erected on Arctic Coast—Return
journey—Pond's miscalculations—Hudson Bay Turner—Roderick
McKenzie's hospitality —Alexander Mackenzie—Astronomy and
mathematics—Winters on Peace River—Terrific journey—The
Pacific slope—Dangerous Indians—Pacific Ocean,
1793—North-West passage by land— Great achievement—A notable
book.
One of
the chiefs of the fur traders seems to have had a higher
ambition than simply to carry back to Grand Portage canoes
overflowing with furs. Alexander Mackenzie had the restless
spirit that made him a very uncertain partner in the great
schemes of McTavish, Frobisher & Co., and led him to seek
for glory in the task of exploration. Coming as a young
Highlander to Montreal, he had early been so appreciated for
his ability as to be sent by Gregory, McLood & Co. to
conduct their enterprise in Detroit. Then we have seen that,
refusing to enter the McTavish Company, he had gone to
Churchill River for the Gregory Company. The sudden union of
all the Montreal Companies (1787) caused, as already noted,
by Pond's murder of Ross, led to Alexander Mackenzie being
placed in charge in that year of the department of
Athabasca. The longed-for opportunity had now come to
Mackenzie. He hoard from the Indians and others of how
Samuel Hearne, less than twenty years before, on behalf of
their great rivals, the Hudson's Bay Company, had returned
by way of Lake Athabasca from his discovery of the
Coppermine River. Ho longed to reach the Arctic Sea by
another river of which he had heard, and eclipse the
discovery of his rival. He even had it in view to seek the
Pacific Ocean, of which he was constantly hearing from the
Indians, where white men wearing armour were to be met—no
doubt meaning the Spaniards,
Mackenzie proceeded in a very deliberate way to prepare for
his long journey. Having this expedition in view, he secured
the appointment of his cousin, Roderick McKenzie, to his own
department. Reaching Lake Athabasca, Roderick McKenzie
selected a promontory running out some three miles into the
lake, and here built (1788) Fort Chipewyan, it being called
from the Indians who chiefly frequented the district. It
became the most important fort of the north country, being
at the converging point of trade on the great watercourses
of the north-west.
On June
3rd, 1789, Alexander Mackenzie started on his first
exploration. In his own birch-bark canoe was a crew of
seven. His crew is worthy of being particularized. It
consisted of four French Canadians, with the wives of two of
them. These voyageurs were Francois Barrieau, Charles
Ducette, or Cadien, Joseph Landry, or Cadien, Pierre de
Lorme. To complete the number was John Steinbruck, a German.
The second canoe contained the guide of the expedition, an
Indian, called the "English chief," who was a great trader,
and had frequented year by year the route to the English, on
Hudson Bay. In his canoe were his two wives, and two young
Indians. In a third canoe was trader Leroux, who was to
accompany the explorer as far north as Slave Lake, and
dispose of the goods he took for furs. Leroux was under
orders from his chief to build a fort on Slave Lake.
Starting on June 3rd, the party left
the lake, finding their way down Slave River, which they
already knew. Day after day they Journeyed, suffered from
myriads of mosquitoes, passed the steep mountain portage,
and, undergoing many hardships, reached Slave Lake in nine
days.
Skirting the lake, they departed
north by an unknown river. This was the object of
Mackenzie's search. Floating down the stream, the Horn
Mountains were seen, portage after portage was crossed, the
mouth of the foaming Great Slave Lake River was passed, the
snowy mountains came in view in the distance, and the party,
undeterred, pressed forward on their voyage of discovery.
The usual incidents of early travel
were experienced. The accidents, though not serious, were
numerous ; the scenes met with were all new ; the natives
were surprised at the bearded stranger ; the usual deception
and fickleness were displayed by the Indians, only to be
overcome by the firmness and tact of Mackenzie; and forty
days after starting, the expedition looked out upon the
floating ice of the Arctic Ocean. Mackenzie, on the morning
of July 14th, erected a post on the shore, on which he
engraved the latitude of the place (69 deg. 14' N.), his own
name, the number of persons in the party, and the time they
remained there.
His object
having been thus accomplished, the important matter was to
reach Lake Athabasca in the remaining days of the open
season. The return journey had the usual experiences, and on
August 24th they came upon Leroux on Slave Lake, where that
trader had erected Fort Providence. On September 12th the
expedition arrived safely at Fort Chipe-wyan, the time of
absence having been 102 days. The story of this journey is
given in a graphic and unaffected manner by Mackenzie in his
work of 1801, but no mention is made of his own name being
attached to the river which he had discovered.
We have stated that Peter Pond had
prepared a map of the north country, with the purpose of
presenting it to the Empress of Russia. Being a man of great
energy, he was not deterred from this undertaking by the
fact that he had no knowledge of astronomical instruments
and little of the art of map-making. His statements were
made on the basis of reports from the Indians, whose custom
was always to make the leagues short, that they might boast
of the length of their Journeys. Computing in this way, he
made Lake Athabasca so far from Hudson Bay and the Grand
Portage that, taking Captain Cook's observations on the
Pacific Coast four years before this, the lake was only,
according to his calculations, a hundred or a hundred and
fifty miles from the Pacific Ocean.
The effect of Pond's calculations,
which became known in the Treaty of Paris, was to stimulate
the Hudson's Bay Company to follow up Hearne's discoveries
and to explore the country west of Lake Athabasca. They
attempted this in 1785, but they sent out a boy of fifteen,
named George Charles, who had been one year at a
mathematical school, and had never made there more than
simple observations. As was to have been expected, the boy
proved incompetent. Urged on by the Colonial Office, they
again in 1791 organized an expedition to send Astronomer
Philip to Turner to make the western journey. Unaccustomed
to the Far West, and poorly provided for this journey,
Turner found himself at Fort Chipewyan entirely dependent
for help and shelter on the Nor'-Westers. He was, however,
qualified for his work, and made correct observations, which
settled the question of the distance of the Pacific Ocean.
Mr. Roderick McKenzie showed him every hospitality. This
expedition served at least to show that the Pacific was
certainly five times the distance from Lake Athabasca that
Pond had estimated.
After
coming back from the Arctic Sea, Alexander Mackenzie spent
his time in urging forward the business of the fur trade,
especially north of Lake Athabasca; but there was burning in
his breast the desire to be the discoverer of the Western
Sea. The voyage of Turner made him still more desirous of
going to the West.
Like
Hearne, Alexander Mackenzie had found the want of
astronomical knowledge and the lack of suitable instruments
a great drawback in determining his whereabouts from day to
day. With remarkable energy, he, in the year 1791, journeyed
eastward to Canada, crossed the Atlantic Ocean to London,
and spent the winter in acquiring the requisite mathematical
knowledge and a sufficient acquaintance with instruments to
enable him to take observations.
He was now prepared to make his journey
to the Pacific Ocean. He states that the courage of his
party had been kept up on their reaching the Arctic Sea, by
the thought that they were approaching the Mer de l'Ouest,
which, it will be remembered, Verendrye had sought with such
passionate desire.
In the very
year in which Mackenzie returned from Great Britain, his
great purpose to reach the Pacific Coast led him to make his
preparations in the autumn, and on October 10th, 1792, to
leave Fort Chipewyan and proceed as far up Peace River as
the farthest settlement, and there winter, to be ready for
an early start in the following spring. On his way he
overtook Mr. Finlay, the younger, and called upon him in his
camp near the fort, where he was to trade for the winter.
Leaving Mr. Finlay "under several volleys of musketry."
Mackenzie pushed on and reached the spot where the men had
been despatched in the preceding spring to square timber for
a house and cut palisades to fortify it. Here, where the
Boncave joins the main branch of the Peace River, the fort
was erected. His own house was not ready for occupation
before December 23rd, and the body of the men went on after
that date to erect five houses for which the material had
been prepared. Troubles were plentiful; such as the
quarrelsomeness of the natives, the killing of an Indian,
and in the latter part of the winter severe cold. In May,
Mackenzie despatched six canoes laden with furs for Fort
Chipewyan.
The somewhat cool
reception that Mackenzie had received from the other
partners at Grand Portage, when on a former occasion he had
given an account of his voyage to the Arctic Sea, led him to
be doubtful whether his confreres would fully approve the
great expedition on which ho was determined to go. He was
comparatively a young man, and he knew that there were many
of the traders jealous of him. Still, his determined
character led him to hold to his plan, and his great energy
urged him to make a name for himself.
Mackenzie had found much difficulty in
securing guides and voyageurs. The trip proposed was so
difficult that the bravest shrank from it. The explorer had,
however, great confidence in his colleague, Alexander
Mackay, who had arrived at the Forks a few weeks before the
departure. Mackay was a most experienced and shrewd man.
After faithfully serving his Company, he entered, as we
shall see, the Astor Fur Company in 1811, and was killed
among the first in the fierce attack on the ship Tonquin,
which was captured by the natives. Mackenzie's crew was the
best he could obtain, and their names have become historic.
There were besides Mackay, Joseph Landry and Charles Ducette,
two voyageurs of the former expedition, Baptiste Bisson,
Francois Courtois, Jacques Beauchamp, and Francois Beaulieu,
the last of whom died so late as 1872, aged nearly one
hundred years, probably the oldest man in the North-West at
the time. Archbishop Taché gives an interesting account of
Beaulieu's baptism at the age of seventy. Two Indians
completed the party, one of whom had been so idle a lad,
that he bore till his dying day the unenviable name of "Cancre"—the
crab.
Having taken, on the day
of his departure, the latitude and longitude of his winter
post, Mackenzie started on May 9th, 1793, for his notable
voyage. Seeing on the banks of the river elk, buffalo, and
bear, the expedition pushed ahead, meeting the difficulties
of navigation with patience and skill. The murmurs of his
men and the desire to turn back made no impression on
Mackenzie, who, now that his Highland blood was up,
determined to see the journey through. The difficulties of
navigation became extreme, and at times the canoes had to be
drawn up stream by the branches of trees.
At length in longitude 121° W.
Mackenzie reached a lake, which he considered the head of
the Ayugal or Peace River. Here the party landed, unloaded
the canoes, and by a portage of half-a-mile on a well-beaten
path, came upon another small lake. From this lake the
explorers followed a small river, and here the guide
deserted the party. On June 17th the members of the
expedition enjoyed, after all their toil and anxiety, the
"inexpressible satisfaction of finding themselves on the
bank of a navigable river on the west side of the first
great range of mountains."
Running rapids, breaking canoes, re-ascending streams,
quieting discontent, building new canoes, disturbing tribes
of surprised Indians, and urging on his discouraged band,
Mackenzie persistently kept on his way. He was descending on
Tacoutche Tesse, afterwards known as the Fraser River.
Finding that the distance by this river was too great, he
turned back. At the point where he took this step (June
23rd) was afterwards built Alexandria Fort, named after the
explorer. Leaving the great river, the party crossed the
country to what Mackenzie called the West Road River. For
this land journey, begun on July 4th, the explorers were
provided with food. After sixteen days of a most toilsome
journey, they at length came upon an arm of the sea. The
Indians near the coast seemed very troublesome, but the
courage of Mackenzie never failed him. It was represented to
him that the natives "were as numerous as mosquitoes and of
a very malignant character."
His destination having been reached, the commander mixed up
some vermilion in melted grease and inscribed in large
characters on the south-east face of the rock, on which they
passed the night, "Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada, by land
the twenty-second of July, one thousand seven hundred and
ninety-three."
After a short
rest the well-repaid explorers began their homeward journey.
To ascend the Pacific slope was a toilsome and discouraging
undertaking, but the energy which had enabled them to come
through an unknown road easily led them back by a way that
had now lost its uncertainty. Mackenzie says that when "we
reached the downward current of the Peace River and came in
view of Fort McLeod, we threw out our flag and accompanied
it with a general discharge of firearms, while the men were
in such spirits and made such an active use of their
paddles, that we arrived before the two men whom we left in
the spring could recover their senses to answer us. Thus we
landed at four in the afternoon at the place which we left
in the month of May. In another month (August 24th) Fort
Chipewyan was reached, where the following winter was spent
in trade.
It is hard to
estimate all the obstacles overcome and the great service
rendered in the two voyages of Alexander Mackenzie. Readers
of the "North-West Passage by Land" will remember the
pitiable plight in which Lord Milton and Dr. Cheadle, nearly
seventy years afterwards, reached the coast. Mackenzie's
journey was more difficult, but the advantage lay with the
fur-traders in that they were experts in the matters of
North-West travel. Time and again, Mackenzie's party became
discouraged. When the Pacific slope was reached, and the
voyageurs saw the waters begin to run away from the country
with which they were acquainted, their fears were aroused,
and it was natural that they should bo unwilling to proceed
further.
Mackenzie had, however, all the
instincts of a brave and tactful leader. On one occasion he
was compelled to take a stand and declare that if his party
deserted him, he would go on alone. This at once aroused
their admiration and sympathy, and they offered to follow
him. At the point on the great river where he turned back,
the Indians were exceedingly hostile. His firmness and
perfect self-control showed the same spirit that is found in
all great leaders in dealing with savage or semi-civilized
races. Men like Frontenac, Mackenzie, and General Gordon
seemed to have a charmed life which enabled them to exercise
a species of mesmeric influence over half-trained or
entirely uncultivated minds.
From the wider standpoint, knowledge was supplied as to the
country lying between the two great oceans, and while it did
not, as we know from the voyages seeking a North-West
Passage in this century, lay the grim spectre of an Arctic
channel, yet it was a fulfilment of Verendrye's dream, and
to Alexander Mackenzie, a Canadian bourgeois, a self-made
man, aided by his Scotch and French associates, had come the
happy opportunity of discovering "La Grande Mer de l'Ouest."
Alexander Mackenzie, filled with the
sense of the importance of his discovery, determined to give
it to the world, and spent the winter at Fort Chipewyan in
preparing the material. In this he was much assisted by his
cousin, Roderick McKenzie, to whom he sent the Journal for
revision and improvement. Early in the year 1794, the
distinguished explorer left Lake Athabasca, journeyed over
to Grand Portage, and a year afterward revisited his native
land. He never returned to the "Upper Country," as the
Athabasca region was called, but became one of the agents of
the fur-traders in Montreal, never coming farther toward the
North-west than to be present at the annual gatherings of
the traders at Grand Portage. The veteran explorer continued
in this position till the time when he crossed the Atlantic
and published his well-known "Voyages from Montreal,"
dedicated to "His Most Sacred Majesty George the Third." The
book, while making no pretensions to literary attainment, is
yet a clear, succinct, and valuable account of the fur trade
and his own expeditions. It was the work which excited the
interest of Lord Selkirk in Rupert's Land and which has
become a recognized authority.
In 1801 this work of Alexander
Mackenzie was published, and the order of knighthood was
conferred upon the successful explorer. On his return to
Canada, Sir Alexander engaged in strong opposition to the
North-West Company and became a member of the Legislative
Assembly for Huntingdon County, in Lower Canada. He lived in
Scotland during the last years of his life, and died in the
same year as the Earl of Selkirk, 1820. Thus passed away a
man of independent mind and of the highest distinction. His
name is fixed upon a region that is now coming into greater
notice than ever before.