Nothing impresses one so much with the fact
of the former importance of Arran, owing to the very central
position it occupied between the various tribes who had settled
in prehistoric times on the mainland or on the islands around,
than the green mounds which mark the remains of its wonderful
chain of camps, forts, or dunes. In these the natives kept watch
over the dividing seas for white sailed boat or narrow canoe or
coracle, and when they saw the invading force it was to such
great camps as that of Drumadoon or Glen Eas (Ashdale), or Tor
Caisteal they brought their women and their other wealth. They
belong to the greater fortresses of the coast, but besides
these, everywhere, in every glen, there were small forts from
behind whose walls no doubt arrows could be shot in safety at
the enemy who dared to enter these fastnesses. From them in
every case, I know, a view is obtained of the entire glen. A
good example is that in Glen Cloy, in which Bruce is said to
have kept watch for the soldiers of Edward. From it one can see
the whole of the glen. At the point at which Glen Easbuig and
Glen an't Suidhe meet, to the north of the Shisken road, is the
site of another fort which must have commanded a splendid view
of the Vale of Shisken.
DRUMADOON
Of the greater forts, that of Drumadoon is by far the most
interesting. Splendidly situated on the sea cliffs some 200 ft.
above the beach, its features can still be made out. Its wall,
10 ft. in thickness, protected a space of some acres in extent.
Its commanding position and its excellent defences rendered it
impregnable, and a safe sheltering place for the whole district
of Waterfoot, which must have been, from its flatness, so
exposed to the assaults of enemies from over seas.
TOR CAISTEAL
The next link
in the chain of coast defences is Tor Caisteal, near Sliddery, a
few miles farther south. This fort is circular, and 160 ft. in
circumference, its walls were some 6 ft. thick, and the approach
to its entrance was protected by a smaller fort or outwork. The
hill on which the castle was built is said to be artificial. The
men who constructed it showed skill and intelligence, which
prove them to have been far above the condition of mere savages.
GLEN ASHDALE
The fort or camp of Glen Ashdale
occupied a fine position overlooking the great glen. The walls
showed a thickness of 25 ft., and were formed of huge sandstone
and granite blocks skilfully put together, and enclosing a space
of 290 ft. or thereabouts. The glen itself is in point of
richness of foliage and the splendid colour of the sandstone
cliffs exceedingly fine, and very different in character to the
wild glens of the north. The waterfall is the highest in the
island.
KING'S CROSS
At
King's Cross, close to the monolith which, tradition says,
commemorates the embarkation of Bruce and his followers for the
Carrick coast, is the site of a small round fort, 15 ft. in
diameter, behind which the natives could no doubt defend the
landing-place.
DUN FION
Dun
Fion, on the other side of Lamlash Bay, was one of the island's
chief defences, like Tor Coille. It stands some 600 ft. above
sea-level, on the hill above Clauchlands Point, and its wall of
5 ft. in thickness enclosed a space of 140 ft. The walls are
said to have showed signs of vitrefaction, which, Sir George
MacKenzie suggested, was caused by the beacon fires lit in these
forts from time to time. The walls being composed of porphyry
and sandstone would, it was suggested, be fused by a very
moderate heat. As a look-out station, the position of Dun Fion
is one of the best in the island. No hostile galley could
approach from north or east without being noticed, and when the
help of others was needed the beacon from Dun Fion could be seen
far and wide, at the small fort at King's Cross to the south, at
the great one by Brodick and the small one of Springfield to the
north. From these would leap up similar beacon fires to warn the
good folk all round the island, and across at Carradale and
Dalaruan in Kintyre and Bute, whence the kinsmen of the
islanders, and the Somerledian chiefs, could send them aid.
CRAIG NA CUIROCH
Out of the great fort of
Brodick rose the historic castle which has been, I believe,
oftener attacked and burnt than any fortress of the West
Highlands. From Brodick the next fort, going north, is the old
one overlooking Sannox Bay, and from there the coast needed no
defence, being so precipitous, till we reach Loch Ranza, and
find the remains of the great fort on Craig na Cuiroch. The
defence of a place like Ranza must have been comparatively easy;
indeed, it must have been impossible for an enemy to approach
it, for the natives could assail the invaders from the
surrounding hills.
The real weakness of Arran
lay in the Machrie Moor and Shisken districts, where landing was
easy, and the wide plain was difficult to defend with a small
force. The interior of the island would, however, afford a
succession of death-traps to any troops, and it is pretty
certain that they were seldom if ever assailed by the Norsemen
or any other invaders, and certainly never held by them. The
purely Gaelic character of the place-names of these parts, save
in one or two great passes like that of Glen Hamadel,
corroborate this conclusion.
TORNANSCHIAN
The list of forts, small and large, is by no means exhausted,
showing clearly that the island was well populated and strongly
held in old times. So strong were the defences that the old duns
were probably in use for a thousand years, each succeeding
generation finding them of service, just as the followers of
Bruce found Tornanschian, the "stalwart place" in Glen Cloy,
useful at need. It was undoubtedly a strong place ; even as late
as 1772 Pennant says: "A mile beyond Kil-michael is Tornanschian
Castle, surrounded by a great stone dike. Here Robert Bruce
sheltered himself for some time." Pennant also saw "five earthen
tumuli there in a row, with another outside of them. On that of
another is a circle of stones, whose ends just appear above the
earth. Probably," he adds, "the memorials of some battle."
In the fifteenth century we hear of the Arran lairds
strengthening the defences of the island on account of the raids
of the Kintyre clans. It is probable that the old forts at
Drumadoon and Torcastle, Glen Ashdale and Dun Fion, were then
still in use.
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