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1844-1845. ALLAHABAD TO ENGLAND
In charge—Routine—Orders
for England—Volunteering—Getting ready—Departure —Chunar—Benares—Sarnath—Ramdee1a-9th
Regiment—Ghazepore—Buxar —Dinapore - Patna - Granary - 62nd Regiment -
Cholera - Monghyr-Hospitality---Bhaugulpore—Rajmahal—A reckless
soldier—Corporal punishment—Berhampore—A Gwalior hostage—Plassee—Transport—Party
of roth Regiment—" Rejected "—Chandernagore—Calcutta—Preparations—The
bronze star—The "Monarch "—St. Helena - Garrison - Slave ships -
Longwood— Napoleon's grave —Courage at sea—England.
ROUTINE of duty, and
responsibilities connected with what was called "full charge" of the
regiment, now devolved upon me. Much had to be learnt in respect to
official matters relating to my new position, nor could it be so except
from so-called "subordinates" attached in those days to hospitals
pertaining to British troops; to them I had, therefore, to refer, and
from them gain needed information.
The aspect of cantonments
during the next few months much resembled that of the previous hot
season pleasure and gaiety at suitable times, but not to interfere with
duty. Among the soldiers unhappily there occurred, as before, great
sickness and mortality, the line of new-made graves in the cemetery
filled the previous year, and then numbering sixty, being duplicated and
exceeded by one on this occasion.
Late in September, orders
of readiness to proceed to Calcutta, there to embark for England, were
appreciated in different senses by the younger officers and by the
older, the latter contrasting in their minds their relative rates of pay
in India, where the rupee had its standard value, and at home. With few
exceptions the juniors expressed themselves as delighted at the
prospect.
Then came the customary
order that, prior to its departure, men who so desired should be given
the opportunity to volunteer from the regiment to certain specified
corps whose period of service in India had yet some years to run. A
special officer was appointed to superintend the proceeding. Applicants
for the privilege were subjected to physical examination; their
defaulter sheets and "small books" looked at, after which, if deemed
eligible, and under forty years of age, they were accepted, and received
a bounty equivalent in amount to £3 sterling. To those whose age
exceeded that limit no bounty was officially given, but a corresponding
sum was granted from regimental funds as they existed at the time. As an
unfortunate part of the system the canteen was kept open throughout;
there the bounty money was quickly spent, with the result that
throughout the week devoted to "volunteering" scenes of irregularity
became numerous; parades and discipline were in abeyance, drunkenness
and riot took their places.
As the arrival of our
regiment, and its return from active service, had been made the occasion
for a round of entertainments, so was now its prospective departure;
civil officials and officers of native regiments joined in turn to show
attention to the Buffs, and thus testify good fellowship and friendly
sentiments towards the corps. Then came the final official ordeal;
namely, inspection by the venerable officer commanding the Division.
General Watson, then said to be of the old school, had seen much war
service; personally amiable, but so full of years that, on the occasion
of the parade in question, he was unable to mount a horse, and so
perforce witnessed the formality of the march past while he remained on
foot.
Boats of the kinds
already described now lay ready moored to the bank of the Jumna for our
reception. The General gave as a last entertainment a sumptuous
déjez2ner, to which were invited the principal officers, civil and
military, of the station. Healths proposed and drunk to in champagne;
good wishes expressed; leave-takings gone through; then all take their
respective places; bands play "Auld lang syne," "The girls we left
behind us," "Home, sweet home," etc.; we are speedily on board; the
moorings untied; the "fleet" in movement with the placid stream; from
the ramparts of the fort heavy guns fire a "Royal salute" in honour of
our regiment. Thus begins the journey homewards.
We are speedily at the
fort of Chunar, built by the Mahomedan conquerors of India, from Hindoo
temples destroyed for that purpose; captured by Major—afterwards Sir
Hector Monro in 1764, but still held semi-sacred by the descendants of
those whose shrines were so desecrated. On an open tract of ground in
its near vicinity, a series of barracks and small houses were occupied
by pensioners of the East India Company.
Benares, viewed from the
Ganges, is picturesque, and in some respects beautiful. Houses of red
sandstone, their fanciful windows, projecting balconies, and flat roofs,
giving to them a character all their own. The city extends from the very
edge of the river; its numerous temples and ghats—the latter crowded
with devotees and others, wearing garments of many colours, giving the
scene a picturesque aspect. Some of the temples and ghats present a
dilapidated appearance; but others, especially that of Visheswar—dedicated
to Siva—is resplendent with gold gilding. Another striking object is the
Mosque of Arungzebe, erected in the reign of that monarch from Hindoo
temples destroyed for that purpose. Near the golden temple, in the heart
of the city, is the no less famous well, named after Manic Karnik,
believed by votaries to be filled with "the sudor of Vishnu," and at its
bottom to contain Truth. At a short distance is the Astronomical
Observatory, erected by Jai Singh, A.D. 1693.
History records that this
ancient city continued during many generations to be the metropolis of
Aryan civilization in India. It was at Sarnath, a suburb of Kasi, as
Benares was then called, that in the sixth century B.C. Gautama preached
the doctrines of Karma and Nirvana. There Buddhism assumed its sway,
which it retained till the fourth century A.D., when it gave way before
a revival of Hindooism, in reg1rd to which religion Benares has ever
since been considered its most sacred city.
Here we first witnessed
the celebration of the Ramdeela festival. It consists in a
representation of the more important incidents connected with the
abduction of Sita; the chase, the siege, and capture of Ravanu's
stronghold; her rescue, the ordeal of fire, to test her purity, and
reception by Rama. As noted at the time, the performances, interpreted
by the light of legend, gave to them considerable interest.
Resuming our river
journey, we met a fleet of boats similar to our own, having on board a
party of the 29th Regiment, in progress towards the north-west. The
effective portion of the regiment was marching to its destination from
Ghazepore, at which place it had been stationed during the two years it
had been in India. From a strength of close upon 1,200, it had been in
that short time reduced, by fever and cholera, to little over 400
effectives. Alas! out of those remaining, great were to be the losses at
Ferozeshah, and other frontier battles, then in the near future.
There was nothing in the
aspect of Ghazepore, or the buildings connected with it, to account for
the havoc in life and health sustained by the 29th Regiment. A large
extent of grass-covered plain separates the station proper from the
river. On it stands a monument, erected in memory of Lord Cornwallis,'
who died near this place, while in progress up the Ganges. That
monument, surrounded by tamarisk bushes, above which its summit rises,
bears upon it a memorial figure by Flaxman. The range of barracks and
the church are the only other buildings that are immediately seen. A
visit to the native town brought us to the ruins of what had been the
palace of Mir Cossim Ali Khan, whose forces were defeated, and power
destroyed, at Buxar, in 1764, by Major Munro. The graceful proportion of
its pillars, arches, and general aspect struck us forcibly, though the
building itself is in a state of decay, as are also the numerous smaller
ranges by which, in former days, it was surrounded; nor is it more than
eighty years since that decay began. Other points of interest connected
with Ghazepore include the growth and manufacture of poppy and opium,
roses and their otto. A breeding stud for cavalry and artillery horses
is here maintained by Government.
Buxar, our next halting
place, was one of three places at which breeding studs were maintained
by "the Company," the other two being Ghazepore, already mentioned, and
Haupur. It would appear, however, that all these are insufficient to
meet the requirements of the army, and that consequently importation of
horses from the Cape and Australia has had to be resorted to.
Dinapore, then occupied
by European artillery, one British and three native regiments of
infantry, for the assigned purpose of guarding against possible
incursion by the Nepaulese, whose relations towards the Government of
India were somewhat strained. It was said that for a number of years the
terms of the Treaty of 1816 between Sir David Ochterlony and the chief
of the Ghoorkas were faithfully adhered to by the latter; but that in
recent times signs of disaffection had begun to show themselves. As an
outcome of the Treaty in question, some of the Nepaulese took military
service under the Company, they being enrolled in what became known as
Ghoorka regiments. For some reason, the nature of which did not
transpire, several days elapsed before our journey was resumed.
Impressions of the place
were not particularly favourable; that it has attractions of a kind,
however, seems evident, as families and various retired officers were
said to make it their residence. A few miles distant is the city of
Patna—Pataliputra of the Hindoos, and Palibothra of the Greeks—famous in
relation to British history as the scene of murder by Kossim Khan, in
1763, of 200 Englishmen, besides 2,000 sepoys; to become again noted in
connection with events of 1857. On our way to and from that city we
noticed by the roadside the now disused grain store, erected in 1769-70,
to receive grain against the great famine then prevailing in Behar, in
respect to which it is related that "the tanks were dried up, the
springs ceased to reach the surface, and within the first nine months of
1770 one-third of the population of Lower Bengal were carried off by
want of food."
The 62nd, occupying
barracks at Dinapore, entertained the officers of the Buffs on a scale
of hospitality and in a manner to be compared only with regimental
festivities pictured in the works of Charles Lever. "The Springers," as
in those days they loved to be called, were under orders for Umballah,
much delighted at prospects of service therein implied; for the state of
affairs in the Punjab, already mentioned, had from day to day continued
to increase in gravity. The feeling of gallant hilarity was expressed in
a somewhat demonstrative manner in extemporary song by one of their
officers in early morning hours, while mess had not yet broken up. Of
our festive hosts on that occasion scarcely one was alive fourteen
months thereafter.
Resuming our journey, our
fleet was moored about sunset under a somewhat high alluvial bank, such
as in this part of the river course are of frequent occurrence. To
several of our soldiers the result was fatal; during the night cholera
attacked with violence, and claimed them as victims. As we continued on
our way next day the malady seemed to be left behind us.
Monghyr, at which we
speedily arrived, is interesting in several respects. To the cession of
its rather imposing fort was immediately ascribed the massacre of our
countrymen at Patna, as already mentioned. Near this place, in the year
of that occurrence, 1763, a mutiny occurred, in which not only native
but also European troops were concerned, nor was it until several of
their number had been blown from guns by order of Major Munro, already
mentioned, that the outbreak was suppressed.
At this place more
hospitality was shown us. While yet at some distance from our halting
ground, an invitation reached the regiment from Mr. Hodson, then
occupying the position of Joint Magistrate and Collector, that officers
should dine with him; while to the soldiers, "refreshments" would be
served on tables arranged for the purpose as near as possible to the
boats. Thus did our host express the compliment he desired to show the
regiment, and very highly were his successful endeavours appreciated.
Our next halting place
was Bhaugulpore. There, in 1327, the Buffs were stationed, while as yet
our frontier line was comparatively little advanced,—Bhurtpore only the
previous year captured. In the range of hills that thence extend in a
south-westerly direction are various wild Santhal tribes, very low in
civilization, devil-worshippers by custom; their weapons were chiefly
bows and arrows; their own ethnic alliance believed to be Dravidian.
At the time referred to
the number of steamers on the Ganges was small; the length of inland
voyage from three to four weeks. Officers and others availing themselves
of that mode of transit considered that they were travelling "by
express." It was customary with some to spend the period of sick leave,
extending in certain instances to six months, on board comfortably
fitted up "budgerows" on the river; tradesmen also arranged the kind of
boat so called as travelling shops, and these different classes of
persons and craft gave certain variety to our river voyage. Arrived at
Raj mahal, the former capital of Northern Bengal, but now a ruined mass
out of which stood a few broken shafts of what had been pillars of black
marble. The ruined palace dates back only to A.D. 1630. Sultan Shujah,
by whom it was founded, elder brother of Arungzebe, was at the time
Governor of Bengal. He was soon thereafter deposed by the latter-named
monarch; fled to Arracan, and there perished miserably. When visited by
Bishop Heber, the ruins of the palace were in comparatively good
preservation; subsequently, however, their materials were utilised in
the construction of the magnificent palace of Moorshedabad.
Two incidents now
occurred, each characteristic in its way. A soldier having clandestinely
obtained bazaar spirit, was thereby rendered drunk and desperate;
boasting of his courageous deeds, he was challenged to "take a header"
into the Ganges. He did so, and appeared no more. The other was the
infliction of one hundred lashes on the back of a hardened old offender,
simply as punishment, for none of those who knew the man expected that
it would have any deterrent effect in the future.
Entering the Bhauguruttee
branch of the Ganges, our fleet was soon at Berhampore,' whence I had
started up the river little more than two years previous. Again, but now
as one of a body of officers, I partook of hospitality shown to the
whole regiment by General Raper. A breakfast given at the palace of the
Nawab; excursions by land and river, presentation to His Highness,
permission to visit different parts of his palace, including jewel-room
and its contents, were so many items connected with ovation given to us
as representatives of a distinguished regiment. All this was wound up by
dinner at the house of the General, followed by a "Reception," during
which I had the pleasure of again meeting some "old" friends.
Among the guests at that
Reception was "the Khasjeewalla of Gwalior," implicated, as we have
seen, in the disturbances that led to the recent campaign in that State.
For a time he was interned at Agra, but latterly had been "at large,"
under surveillance of our host; his demeanour towards those by whom the
victory at Punniar was gained, by no means agreeable; but under the
circumstances anything else could hardly have been looked for.
Resuming our journey, we
soon arrived at and glided past the village of Plassee, but the actual
field so named had long since been swept away by the river by which we
were being carried along. At Kulnah, indications of flow and reflux of
the tide were evident. There we met the fleet of boats, similar to our
own, by which the 10th Regiment was being conveyed inland. Mutual
salutations passed between us, but little at the time thought I of close
association subsequently in store for me in relation to it. A short
distance more, and we passed the village of Balaghurree, its
inhabitants, those and their descendants, who, having been left by their
relatives to die by the side of the river, were rescued through the good
offices of missionaries.
We were nearing the end
of this river journey. In quick succession our fleet glided past the
important native towns of Baudel, noted on account of its Roman Catholic
convent ; Hooghly, for its college; and Chinsurah, already mentioned.
Now we were off Chandernagore, on the battlements of which waved the
tricolour. In 1757 that little settlement was captured from the French
by Clive, aided by Admiral Watson, who, for the attack, brought thither
his frigate carrying seventy- four guns—a feat not now possible because
of the silting up of the river. The place was shortly afterwards
restored to the French, to again fall to the British during the
Revolutionary War, and finally to be ceded to them in accordance with
the Peace Treaty of 1816.
We are well within the
influence of the tide. As it recedes we' are borne towards Calcutta. A
forest of masts becomes more and more dense; tall chimneys on either
bank tell of factories; the clang of hammers, of ship-building yards;
the odour of tar, that we are nearing our port; and great is the
surprise with which our north-country servants and followers look upon
the unwonted sight. We pass the Armenian Ghat. If is an open space, on
which various funeral pyres blaze and smoke; vultures and adjutant-birds
are waiting for such human remains as may be left: the scene most
unpleasant to look at. For many years past that which has just been
alluded to has ceased to exist, a crematorium having taken its place. We
arrive at Calcutta; the regiment lands, and marches into Fort William.
Preparations for
departure proceeded rapidly, and with a will. Hospitality to the
regiment and attentions in other ways were shown by some of the higher
officials. At Government House some of us had an opportunity of being
present at the dinners and balls, for which it was then, as since, well
and favourably known; also at parties given by the Chief Justice Sir
Lawrence Peel, in the spacious house occupied by him at Garden Reach.
The issue to men and
officers of the Bronze Star respectively for Punniar and Maharajpore
took place, but without pomp and circumstance such as most properly at
the present time are observed on similar occasions. Being informed that
the stars in question, composed of metal of Mahratta cannon that had
wrought heavy injury to our regiments, were in readiness, in company
with my friend Maude, I drove to the Mint, and there, from two heaps on
the floor, of those decorations, selected one each, leaving both for the
purpose of our respective names being engraved on them. A few days
thereafter we returned, and having received from an employé of that
establishment the much-prized decorations, we placed them in our
pockets, and drove back to Fort William.
Soon thereafter, the
Headquarter portion of the regiment was on board the Monarch, and away
from India homeward bound. Our ship, one of a class by which troops were
wont in favoured instances to be conveyed between England and her great
Eastern dependency: graceful to look at, roomy, well fitted up,
sumptuously provided—veritable floating palaces. The comfort of the
soldier, his wife and children, secured to an extent that under
subsequent regulations became impossible. With regard to officers,
"stoppages" for messing was on the scale already mentioned. I became
entitled to "head money," as on the outward voyage, notwithstanding that
I was in the performance of my ordinary duties with my own regiment.
Nine weeks of uneventful
life passed, and our ship was at St. Helena. Very shortly thereafter,
parties of us, arranged for the purpose, landed at James's Town, the
population of which seemed to consist almost entirely of mulattoes of
low type, physically and intellectually; the balance were of pure negro
type. We learned, moreover, that slave ships with their human cargo on
board were from time to time brought to the island by British ships of
war, very harrowing details being given of the sufferings of the
unfortunate captives on board. At the time of our visit the garrison of
the island comprised the St. Helena regiment and a battery of artillery.
An excursion to Longwood
proved to be a somewhat arduous undertaking—carriages ricketty, horses
like living skeletons, lame, and weak, the ascent steep, rugged. The six
or seven miles to be traversed required several hours for completion of
the task. At last we were at and within the barn-like, dilapidated
building in which took place the closing life scenes of Napoleon; its
surroundings a tangled mass of brambles and other shrubs. In the
building itself his library room, then partly filled with hay; near it
the stable, having stalls for six horses. In a pretty valley close by,
under the shade of the then famous willow, was the open tomb whence the
remains of the great Frenchman' were removed in 1840 for transport to
the banks of the Seine.
Continuing our voyage, an
incident which happened during its further progress deserves record.
While sailing under the influence of the trade winds, a sailor fell from
aloft into the sea. Quickly were life-buoys slipped, the ship brought
round, a boat lowered, while from top-gallant cross-trees an officer
directed the crew towards the man struggling in mid ocean. Soon, from
the bows of the boat one of its crew dived, for the drowning man had
already begun to sink; a brief interval, and both rescuer and rescued
were hauled on board. With no loss of time the boat was alongside and on
board ship, the man restored to animation and life by means used to that
end. Many years thereafter, meeting Mr. Cloete, who performed the
gallant act, we talked over the incident and its surrounding
circumstances.
Another month at sea, and
the Monarch swings at anchor off Gravesend; the Buffs, absent from
England since 1821, disembark;' the ordeal of the Custom House gone
through; the march on foot begun, for as yet a railway had not been
opened. Evening was far advanced when the regiment arrived at Chatham,
where it was to be temporarily quartered. In accordance with the routine
of that day, nothing whatever had been prepared in barracks for our men,
save that doors were open, displaying bare walls, bed cots devoid of
mattress or bedding; while for the officers, not even quarters had been
assigned; they were expected to look after themselves. Night had far
advanced before duty rendered necessary by such a state of things was so
far complete as to allow of our going in search of hotels in which to
spend the few hours that remained till daylight. It was not till two
o'clock in the morning that we had "dinner, in course of which various
allusions were made to the "hospitality" accorded to us as a body on the
occasion of our return, as contrasted with what we had experienced in
India. Two days had to elapse before the regimental baggage arrived,
though the distance over which it had to be conveyed was no more than
ten miles; nor was it till then that straw for the men's cots was issued
by the barrack stores, and they initiated into the art of stuffing their
allotted quantities into their palliasses. This was the beginning of our
Home Service. |
