Dr. McLoughlin came overland to Fort George (Astoria),
arriving there in 1824. He soon saw that the place for a great trading and
supply post should be further up the Columbia River. After careful surveys
in small boats, he founded Fort Vancouver, on the north side of the Columbia
River, about seven miles above the mouth of the Willamette River, and
several miles below the point named Point Vancouver by Lieut. Broughtan, in
1792, the latter point being near the present town of Washougal, Washington.
In 1825 Fort Vancouver was constructed, in part, and the goods and effects
at Fort George were moved to Fort Vancouver. The final completion of the
latter fort was not until a later period, although the work was carried on
as rapidly as possible. A few years after, about 1830, a new fort was
erected about a mile westerly from the original fort. Here is now located
the present United States' Military post, commonly known as Vancouver
Barracks.
With characteristic energy
and foresight Dr. McLoughlin soon established at and near Fort Vancouver a
large farm on which were grown quantities of grain and vegetables. It was
afterwards stocked with cattle, horses, sheep, goats, and hogs. In 1836 this
farm consisted of 3,000 acres, fenced into fields, with here and there dairy
houses and herdsmen's and shepherd's cottages. In 1836 the products of this
farm were, in bushels: 8,000 of wheat; 5,500 of barley; 6,000 of oats; 9,000
of peas; 14,000 of potatoes; besides large quantities of turnips (rutabaga),
pumpkins, etc. There were about ten acres in apple, pear, and quince trees,
which bore in profusion. He established two saw mills and two flour mills
near the fort. For many years there were shipped, from Fort Vancouver,
lumber to the Hawaiian Islands (then called the Sandwich Islands) and flour
to Sitka. It was not many years after Dr. McLoughlin came to the Oregon
Country until it was one of the most profitable parts of North America to
the Hudson's Bay Company. For many years the London value of the yearly
gathering of furs, in the Oregon Country, varied from $500,000 to
$1,000,000, sums of money representing then a value several fold more than
such sums represent today.
Fort Vancouver was a
parallelogram about seven hundred and fifty feet long and four hundred and
fifty broad, enclosed by an upright picket wall of large and closely fitted
beams, over twenty feet in height, secured by buttresses on the inside.
Originally there was a bastion at each angle of the fort. In the earlier
times there were two twelve pounders mounted in these bastions. In the
center of the fort there were some eighteen pounders; all these cannon, from
disuse, became merely ornamental early in the thirties. In 1841, when
Commodore Wilkes was at Fort Vancouver, there were between the steps of Dr.
McLoughlin's residence, inside the fort, two old cannon on sea-carriages,
with a few shot. There were no other warlike instruments.6 It was a very
peaceful fort.
The interior of the fort was
divided into two courts, having about forty buildings, all of wood except
the powder magazine, which was constructed of brick and stone. In the
center, facing the main entrance, stood the Hall in which were the
dining-room, smoking-room, and public sitting-room, or bachelor's hall.
Single men, clerks, strangers, and others made the bachelor's hall their
place of resort. To these rooms artisans and servants were not admitted. The
Hall was the only two-story house in the fort. The residence of Dr.
McLoughlin was built after the model of a French Canadian dwelling-house. It
was one story, weather-boarded, and painted white. It had a piazza with
vines growing on it. There were flower-beds in front of the house. The other
buildings consisted of dwellings for officers and their families, a
school-house, a retail store, warehouses and shops.
A short distance from the fort, on the bank of the river,
was a village of more than fifty houses, for the mechanics and servants, and
their families, built in rows so as to form streets. Here were also the
hospital, boat-house, and salmon-house, and near by were barns,
threshing-mills, granaries, and dairy buildings. The whole number of
persons, having their homes at Fort Vancouver and its vicinity, men, women,
and children, was about eight hundred. The Hall was an oasis in the vast
social desert of Oregon. Fort Vancouver was a fairy-land to the early
travellers, after their long, hard journeys across the continent. Thomas J.
Farnham was a traveller who came to Oregon in 1839. He was entertained by
Dr. McLoughlin at Fort Vancouver. In his account of his travels, which he
subsequently published, he gives the following description of the usual
dinner at Fort Vancouver:
"The bell rings for dinner; we will now pay a
visit to the 'Hall' and its convivialities. . At the end of a
table twenty feet in length stands Governor McLoughlin, directing guests and
gentlemen from neighboring posts to their places; and chief-traders,
traders, the physician, clerks, and the farmer slide respectfully to their
places, at distances from the Governor corresponding to the dignity of their
rank in the service. Thanks are given to God, and all are seated. Roast beef
and pork, boiled mutton, baked salmon, boiled ham; beets, carrots, turnips,
cabbage, and potatoes, and wheaten bread, are tastefully distributed over
the table among a dinner-set of elegant queen's ware, burnished with
glittering glasses and decanters of various-coloured Italian wines. Course
after course goes round, . . . and each gentleman in turn vies with him in
diffusing around the board a most generous allowance of viands, wines, and
warm fellow-feeling. The cloth and wines are removed together, cigars are
lighted, and a strolling smoke about the premises, enlivened by a courteous
discussion of some mooted point of natural history or politics, closes the
ceremonies of the dinner hour at Fort Vancouver."
At Fort Vancouver Dr. John McLoughlin lived and ruled in
a manner Befitting that of an old English Baron in feudal times, but with a
graciousness and courtesy, which, I fear, were not always the rule with the
ancient Barons. Dr. McLoughlin was a very temperate man. He rarely drank any
alcoholic beverages, not even wines. There was an exception one time, each
year, when the festivities began at Fort Vancouver on the return of the
brigade, with the year's furs. He then drank a glass of wine to open the
festivities. Soon after he came to Oregon, from morality and policy he
stopped the sale of liquor to Indians. To do this effectually he had to stop
the sale of liquor to all whites. In 1834, when Wyeth began his competition
with the Hudson's Bay Company, he began selling liquor to Indians, but at
the request of Dr. McLoughlin, Wyeth stopped the sale of liquors to Indians
as well as to the whites. In 1841 the American trading vessel Thomas
Perkins, commanded by Captain Varney, came to the Columbia River to trade,
having a large quantity of liquors. To prevent the sale to the Indians, Dr.
McLoughlin bought all these liquors and stored them at Fort Vancouver. They
were still there when Dr. McLoughlin left the Hudson's Bay Company in 1846.
Dr. McLoughlin soon established numerous forts and posts
in the Oregon Country, all of which were tributary to Fort Vancouver. In
1839 there were twenty of these forts besides Vancouver. The policy of the
Hudson's Bay Company was to crush out all rivals in trade. It had an
absolute monopoly of the fur trade of British America, except the British
Provinces, under acts of Parliament, and under royal grants. But in the
Oregon Territory its right to trade therein was limited by the Conventions
of 1818 and 1827 and by the act of Parliament of July 2, 1821, to the extent
that the Oregon Country (until one year's notice was given) should remain
free and open to the citizens of the United States and to the subjects of
Great Britain, and the trade of the Hudson's Bay Company should not
"be used to the prejudice or exclusion of citizens of the United States
engaged in such trade." Therefore, as there could be no legal exclusion of
American citizens, it could be done only by occupying the country, building
forts, establishing trade and friendly relations with the Indians, and
preventing rivalry by the laws of trade, including ruinous competition. As
the Hudson's Bay Company bought its goods in large quantities in England,
shipped by sea, and paid no import duties, it could sell at a profit at
comparatively low prices. In addition, its goods were of extras good
quality, usually much better than those of the American traders. It also
desired to prevent the settling of the Oregon Country. The latter purpose
was for two reasons: to preserve the fur trade; and to prevent the Oregon
Country from being settled by Americans to the prejudice of Great Britain's
claim to the Oregon Country.
For more than ten years after
Dr. McLoughlin came to Oregon, there was no serious competition to the
Hudson's Bay Company in the Oregon Country west of the Blue Mountains. An
occasional ship would come into the Columbia River and depart. At times,
American fur traders entered into serious competition with the Hudson's Bay
Company, east of the Blue Mountains. Such traders were Bonneville Sublette,
Smith, Jackson, and others. They could be successful, only partially,
against the competition of the Hudson's Bay Company. Goods were often sold
by it at prices which could not be met by the American traders, except at a
loss. Sometimes more was paid to the Indians for furs than they were worth.
Dr. McLoughlin was the autocrat of the Oregon Country.
His allegiance was to his Country and to his Company. He knew the Americans
had the legal right to occupy any part of the Oregon Country, and he knew
from the directors of his Company, as early as 1825, that Great Britain did
not intend to claim any part of the Oregon Country south of the Columbia
River. The only fort he established south of the Columbia River was on the
Umpqua River. I do not wish to place Dr. McLoughlin on a pedestal, nor to
represent him as more than a grand and noble man, ever true, as far as
possible, to his Company's interests and to himself. To be faithless to his
Company was to be a weakling and contemptible. But he was not a servant, nor
was he untrue to his manhood. As Chief Factor he was "Ay, every inch a
King," but he was also ay, every inch a man. He was a very human, as well as
a very humane man. He had a quick and violent temper. His position as Chief
Factor and his continued use of power often made him dictatorial. And yet he
was polite, courteous, gentle, and kind, and a gentleman. He was an
autocrat, but not an aristocrat. In 1838 Rev. Herbert Beaver, who was
chaplain at Fort Vancouver, was impertinent to Dr. McLoughlin in the
fort-yard. Immediately Dr. McLoughlin struck Beaver with a cane. The next
day Dr. McLoughlin publicly apologized for this indignity.