Camp of the Nepaulee chief—Quicksands—Elephants crossing
rivers— Tiffin at the Nepaulee camp—-We beat the forest for tiger—Phoot a
young tiger—Red ants in the forest—Bhowras or ground hees—The nursus
libialis or
long-lipped bear—Across the stream—Florican— Stag running the gauntlet of
flame—Our bag—Start for factory— Remarks on elephants—Precautions useful for
protection from the sun in tiger shooting—The puggree—Cattle
breeding in India, and wholesale deaths of cattle from disease—Nathpore—Ravages
of the river— Mrs. Gray, an old resident in the jungles—Description of her
surroundings.
N ext morning
we started beating due east, setting fire to the jungle as we went along.
The roaring and crackling of the flames startled the elephant on which
Captain S. was riding, and going away across country at a furious pace, it
was with difficulty that it could be stopped. We crossed the frontier line a
short distance from camp, and entered a dense jungle of thorny acacia, with
long dry grass almost choking the trees. They were dry and stunted, and when
we dropped a few lights amongst such combustible material, the fire was
splendid beyond description. How the flames surged through the withered
-grass. We were forced to pause and admire the magnificent sight. The wall
of flame tore along with inconceivable rapidity, and the blinding volumes of
smoke obscured the country for miles. The jungle was full of deer and pig.
One fine buck came bounding along past our line, but I stopped him with a
single bullet through the neck. He fell over with a tremendous crash, and
turning a complete somersault broke off both his horns with the force of the
fall.
We beat down a shallow sandy watercourse, and could see the
camp of the old Major on the high bank beyond. Farther down the stream there
was a small square fort, the whitewashed walls of which flashed hack the
rays of the sun, and grouped round it were some ruinous-looking huts,
several snowy tents, and a huge shamiana or canopy, under which we could see
a host of attendants spreading carpets, placin. chairs, and otherwise making
ready for us. The hanks of the stream were very steep, but the guide at
length brought us to what seemed a safe and fordable passage. On the further
side was a flat expanse of seemingly firm and dry sand, but no sooner had
our elephants begun to cross it, than the whole sandbank for yards began to
rock and tremble; the water welled up over the footmarks of the elephants,
and S. called out to us, "Fussun, Fussun!" quicksand, quicksand! We
scattered the elephants, and tried to hurry them over the dangerous bit of
ground with shouts and cries of encouragement.
The poor animals seemed thoroughly to appreciate the danger,
and shuffled forward as quickly as they could. All got over in safety except
the last three, The treacherous sand, rendered still more insecure by the
heavy tread of so many ponderous animals, now gave way entirely, and the
three hapless elephants were left floundering in the tenacious hold of the
dreaded fussun. Two of the three were not far from the firm bank, and
managed to extricate themselves after a short struggle; but the third had
sunk up to the shoulders, and could scarcely move. All hands immediately
began cutting long grass and forming it into bundles. These were thrown to
the sinking elephant. He rolled from side to side, the sand quaking and
undulating round him in all directions. At times lie would roll over till
nearly half his body was invisible. South of the Nepaulese ventured near,
and managed to undo the harness-ropes that
were holding on the pad. The sagacious brute fully understood his danger,
and the efforts we were making for his assistance. He managed to get several
of the big bundles of grass under his feet, and stood there looking at us
with a most pathetic pleading expression, and trembling, as if with an ague,
from fear and exhaustion.
The old Major came down to meet us, and a crowd of his men
added their efforts to ours, to help the unfortunate elephant. We threw in
bundle after bundle of grass, till we had the yielding sand covered with a
thick passage of firmly bound fascines, on which the hathee, staggering and
floundering painfully, managed to reach firm land He. was so completely
exhausted that he could scarcely walk to the tents, and we left him there to
the care of his attendants. This is a very common episode in tiger hunting,
and does not always terminate so fortunately. In running water, the
quicksand is not so dangerous, as the force of the stream keeps washing away
the sand, and docs not allow it to settle round the legs of the elephant;
but on dry land, a dry fussun, as it is called, is justly feared ; and many
a valuable animal has been swallowed up in its slow, deadly, tenacious
grasp.
In crossing sand, the heaviest and slowest elephants should
go first, preceded by a light, nimble pioneer. If the leading elephant shows
signs of sinking, the others should at once turn back, and seek some safer
place. In all cases the line should separate a little, and not follow in
each other's footsteps. The. indications of a quicksand are easily
recognised. If the surface of the sand begins to oscillate and undulate with
a tremulous rocking motion, it is always wise to seek some other passage.
Looking back, after elephants have passed, you will often see what was a
perfectly dry flat, covered with several inches of water. When water begins
to ooze up in any quantity, after a few elephants have passed, it is much
safer to make the remainder cross at some spot farther on.
In crossing a deep swift river, the elephants should enter
the water in a line, ranged up and down the river. That is, the line should
he ranged along the bank, and Inter the
water at right angles to the current, and not in Indian file. The strongest
elephants should be up stream, as they help to break the force of the
current for the weaker and smaller animals down below. It is a fine sight to
see some thirty or forty of these huge animals crossing a deep and rapid
river. Some are reluctant to strike out, when they begin to enter the
deepest channel, and try to turn back; the mahouts and "mates" shout, and
belabour them with bamboo poles. The trumpeting of the elephants, the waving
of tbe trunks, disporting, like huge water-snakes, in the perturbed current,
the splashing of the bamboos, the dark bodies of the natives swimming here
and there round the animals, the unwieldy boat piled high with howdahs and
pads, the whole heap surmounted by a group of sportsmen with their gleaming
weapons, and variegated puggrees, make up a picturesque and memorable sight.
Some of the strong swimmers among the elephants seem to enjoy the whole
affair immensely. They dip their huge heads entirely under the current, the
sun flashes on the dark hide, glistening with the dripping water; the
enormous head emerges again slowly, like some monstrous antediluvian
creation, and with a succession of these ponderous appearances and
disappearances, the mighty-brutes forge through the surging water. When they
reach a shallow part, they pipe with pleasure, and send volumes of fluid
splashing against their heaving flanks, scattering the spray all round in
mimic rainbows.
At all times the Koosee was a dangerous stream to cross, but
during the rains I have seen the strongest and best swimming elephants taken
nearly a mile down stream; and in many instances they have been drowned,
their vast bulk and marvellous strength being quite unable to cope with the
tremendous force of the raging waters.
When we had got comfortably seated under the shamiana, a
crowd of attendants brought us baskets of fruit and a very nice cold
collation of various Indian dishes and curries. We did ample justice to the
old soldier's hospitable offerings, and then betel-nut, cardamums, cloves,
and other spices, and paun leaves, were handed round on a silver salver,
beautifully embossed and carved with quaint devices. We lit our cigars, our
beards and handkerchiefs were anointed with attar of roses; and the old
Major then informed us that there was good khubber of tiger in the wood
close by.
The trees were splendid specimens of forest growth,
enormously thick, beautifully umbrageous, and growing very close together.
There was a dense undergrowth of tangled creeper, and the most lovely ferns
and tropical plants in the richest luxuriance, and of every conceivable
shade of amber and green. It was a charming spot. The patch of forest was
separated from the unbroken line of morung jungle by a beautifully sheltered
glade of several hundred acres, and further broken in three places by
avenue-looking openings, disclosing peeps of the black and gloomy-looking
mass ot impenetrable forest beyond.
In the first of these openings we were directed to take up a
position, while the pad elephants and a crowd of beaters went to the edge of
the patch of forest and began beating up to us. Immense numbers of genuine
jungle fowl were calling in all directions, and flying right across the
opening in numerous coveys. They are beautifully marked with black and
golden plumes round the neck, and I determined to shoot a few by-and-bye to
send home to friends, who 1 knew would pri e them as invaluable material in
dressing hooks for fly-fishing. The crashing of the trees, as the elephants
forced their way through the thick forest, or tore off huge branches as they
struggled amid the matted vegetation, kept us all on the alert. The first
place was however a blank, and we moved on to the next. We had not long to
wait, for a fierce din inside the jungle, and the excited cries of the
beaters, apprised us that game of some sort was afoot, We were eagerly
watching, and speculating on the cause of the uproar, when a very fine
half-grown tiger cub sprang out of some closely growing fern, and dashed
across the narrow opening so quickly, that ere we had time to raise a gun,
he had disappeared in some heavy jhamun jungle on the further side of the
path.
We hurried round as fast as we could to intercept him, should
he attempt to break on ahead; and leaving some men to rally the mahouts, and
let them know that there was a tiger afoot, we were soon in our places, and
ready to give the cub a warm reception, should he again show his stripes. It
was not long ere he did so. I spied him stealing along the edge of the
jungle, evidently intending to make a rush back past the opening he had just
crossed, and outflank the line of beater elephants. I fired and hit him in
the forearm; he rolled over roaring with rage, and then descrying his
assailants, he bounded into the open, and as well as his wound would allow
him, came furiously down at the charge. In less time however than it takes
to write it, he had received three bullets In his body, and tumbled down a
lifeless heap. We raised a cheer which brought the beaters and elephants
quickly to the spot. In coming through a thickly wooded part of the forest,
with numerous long and pliant creepers intertwisted into a confused tangle
of rope-like ligaments, the old Puddeah elephant tore down one of the long vines, and
dislodged an angry army of venomous red ants on the occupants of the guddee,
or cushioned seat on the elephant's pad. The ants proved formidable
assailants. There were two or three. Baboos or native gentlemen, holding on
to the ropes, chewing pan, and enjoying the scene, but the red ants were
altogether more than they had bargained for. Recognising the Baboos as the
immediate cause of their disturbance, they attacked them with venomous pertinacity.
The mahout fairly yelled with pain, and one of the Baboos, smarting from the
fiery bites of the furious insects, toppled clean backwards into the
undergrowth, showing an undignified pair of heels. The other two danced on
the guddee, sweeping and thrashing the air, the cushion, and their clothes,
with their cummerbunds, in the vain effort to free themselves of their angry
assailants. The guddee was literally covered with ants; it looked an
animated red mass, and the wretched Baboos made frantic efforts to shake
themselves clear. They were dreadfully bitten, and reaching the open, they
slid off the elephant, and even on the ground continued their saltatory
antics before finally getting rid of their ferocious assailants.
In forest shooting the red ant is one of the most dreaded
pests of the jungle. If a colony gets dislodged from some overhanging
branch, and is landed in your howdah, the best plan is to evacuate your
stronghold as quickly as you can, and let the attendants clear away the
invaders. Their bite is very painful, and they take such tenacious hold,
that rather than put their grip, they allow themselves to be decapitated and
leave their head and formidable forceps sticking in your flesh.
Other dreaded foes in the forest jungle are the Bhowra or
ground bees, which are more properly a kind of hornet. If by evil chance
your elephant should tread on their moundlike nest, instantly an angry swarm
of venomous and enraged hornets comes buzzing about your ears. Your only chance
is to squat down, and envelope yourself completely in a blanket. Old
sportsmen, shooting in forest jungle, invariably take a blanket with them in
the howdah, to ensure themselves protection in the event of an attack by
these bloodthirsty creatures. The thick matted creepers too are a great
nuisance, for which a bill-hook or sharp kookree is an invaluable adjunct to
the other paraphernalia of the march. I have seen a mahout swept clean off
the elephant's back by these tenacious creepers, and the elephants
themselves are sometimes unable to break through the tangle of sinewy, lithe
cords, which drape the huge forest trees, hanging in slender festoons from
every branch. Some of them are prickly, and as the elephant slowly forces
his way through the mass of pendent swaying cords, they lacerate and tear
the mahout's clothes and skin, ami appropriate his puggree. As you crouch
down within the shelter of your howdah, you can't help pitying the poor
wretch, and incline to think that, after all, shooting in grass jungle has
fewer drawbacks and is preferable to forest shooting.
One of the drivers reported that he had seen a bear in the jungle, and we
saw the earth of one not far from where the young tiger had fallen; it was
the lair of the sloth hear
Urses
labialis, so
called from his long pendent upper lip. His spoor is very easily
distinguished from that of any other animal; the ball of the foot shows a
distinct round impression, and about an inch to an inch and a half further
on, the impressions of the long curved claws are seen. lie uses these long
claws to tear up ant hills, and open hollow decaying trees, to get at the
honey within, of which he is very fond. We went after the bear, and were not
long in discovering his whereabouts, and a well-directed shot from S. added
him to our bag. The best bear shooting in India perhaps is in CHOTA NAGPOOR,
but this does not come within the limits of my present volume. We now beat
slowly through the wood, keeping a bright look out for ants and hornets, and
getting fine shooting at the numerous jungle fowl which flew about in
amazing numbers.
The forest trees in this patch of jungle were very line. The
hill seerees, with its feathery foliage and delicate clusters of white
bugle-shaped blossom; the semul or cotton tree, with its wonderful wealth of
magnificent crimson flowers; the birch-looking sheeshum or sissoo; the sombre-looking
sal; the shining, leathery-leafed bhur, with its immense over-arching limbs,
and the crisp, curly-leafed elegant-looking jhamun or Indian olive, fonned a
paiadise of syhan beauty, on which the eye dwelt till it was sated with the
woodland loveliness.
In recrossing the dhar or water-course, we took care to avoid
the quicksands, and as we did not expect to fall in with another tiger, we
indulged in a little general firing. I shot a fine- buck through the spine,
and we bagged several deer, and no less than five floriean; this bird is
allied to the bustard family, and has beautiful drooping feathers, hanging
in plumy pendants of deep black and pure white, intermingled in the most
graceful and showy manner. The male is a magnificent bird, and has perhaps
as fine plumage as any bird on the border; the flesh yields the most
delicate eating of any game bird I know; the slices of mingled brown and
white from the breast are delicious. The birds are rather shy, generally
getting up a long way in front of the line, and moving with a slow, rather
clumsy, flight, not unlike the flight of the white earth owl. They run with
great swiftness, and are rather hard to kill, unless about the neck and
head. There are two sorts, the lesser and the greater, the former also
called the bastard florican. Altogether they are noble-looking birds, and
the sportsman is always glad to add as many florican as he can to his bag.
We were, now nearing the locality of the fierce fire of the
morning; it was still blazing in a long extended line of flame, and we
witnessed an incident without parallel in the experience of any of us. I
fired at and wounded a large stag; it was wounded somewhere in the side, and
seemed very hard hit indeed. Maddened probably by terror and pain, it made
straight for the line of fire, and bounded unhesitatingly right into the
flame. We saw it distinctly go clean through the flames, but we could not
see whether it got away with its life, as the elephants would not go up to
the fire. At ail events, the stag went right through his fiery ordeal, and
was lost to us. We started numerous hares close to camp, and S. bowled over
several. They are very common in the short grass jungle, where the soil is
sandy, and are frequently to be found among thin jowah jungle; they afford
good sport for coursing, but are neither so fleet, nor so large, nor such
good eating as the English hare. In fact, they are very dry eating, and the
best way to cook them is to jug them, or make a hunter's pie, adding
portions of partridge, quail, or plover, with a few mushrooms, and a modicum
of bam or bacon if these are procurable.
We reached camp pretty late, and sent off venison, birds and
other spoils to Mrs. S. and to Ramputtee factory. Our bag showed a diversity
of spoil, consisting of one tiger, seven hog-deer, one bear (Ursus
labialis), seventeen
jungle fowl, five florican, and six hares. It was no had bag considering
that during most of the day we had been beating solely for tiger. We could
have shot manv more deer and jungle fowl, but we never try to shoot more
than are needed to satisfy the wants of the camp. Were we to attempt to
shoot at all the deer and pig that we see, the figures would reach very
large totals. As a rule, therefore, the records of Indian sportsmen give no
idea of the vast quantities of game that are put up and never fired at. It
would be the very wantonness of destruction, to shoot animals not wanted for
some specific purpose, unless, indeed, you were waging an indiscriminate war
of extermination, in a quarter where their numbers were a nuisance and
prejudicial to crops. In that case, your proceedings would not be dignified
by the name of sport.
After a few more days' shooting, the incidents of which were
pretty much like those I have been describing, [ started back for tbe
factory. I sent my horse on ahead, and took five elephants with me to beat
up for game 011 the homeward route. Close to camp a tine buck got up in
front of me. I broke both his forelegs with my first shot, but the poor
brute still managed to hobble along. It was il some very dense patair
jungle, and I had considerable dificulty in bringing him to bag. When we
reached the ghat or ferry, I ordered Geerdliarree Joe's mahout to cross with
his elephant. The brute, however, refused to cross the river alone, and in
spite of all the driver could do, she insisted on following the rest. I got
down, and some of the other drivers got out the hobbles and bound them round
her legs. In spite of these she still seemed determined to follow us. She
shook the bedding and other articles with which she was loaded off her back,
and made a frantic effort to follow us through the deep sand. The iron
chains cut into her legs, and, afraid that she might do herself an
irreparable injury, I had her tied up to a tree, and left her trumpeting and
making an indignant lamentation at being separated from the rest of the
line.
The elephant seems to be quite a social animal. I have
frequently seen cases where, after having been in company together for a
lengthened hunt, they have manifested great reluctance to separate. In
leaving the line, I have often noticed the single elephant looking back at
his comrades, and giving vent to his disappointment and disapproval by
grunts and trumpetings of indignant protest. We left the refractory hathee
tied up to her tree, and as we crossed the long rolling billows of burning
sand that lay athwart our course, she was soon lost to view. I shot a couple
more hog-deer, and got several plover and teal in the patches of water that
lay in some of tin1 hollows
among the sandbanks. I fired at a huge alligator basking in the sun, on a
sandbank close, to the stream. The bullet hit him somewhere in the forearm,
and lie made a tremendous sensation header into the current. From the
agitation in the water, he seemed not to appreciate the leaden message which
I had sent him.
We found the journey through the soft yielding sand very
fatiguing, and especially trying to the eyes. When not shooting, it is a
very wise precaution to wear eye-preservers or "goggles." They are a great
relief to the eyes, and the best, I think, are the neutral tinted. During
the west winds, when the atmosphere is loaded with fine particles of
irritating sand and dust, these goggles are very necessary, and are a great
protection to the sight.
Another prudent precaution is to have the back of one's shirt
or coat slightly padded with cotton and quilted. The heat prevents one
wearing thick clothes, and there is no doubt that the action of the direct
rays of the burning sun all Sown the back on the spinal cord, is very
injurious, and may be a fruitful cause of sunstroke. It is certainly
productive of great lassitude and weariness. I used to wear a thin quilted
sort of shield made of cotton-drill, which fastened round the shoulders and
waist. It does not incommode one's action in any particular, and is, I
think, a great protection against the fierce rays of the sun. Main prefer
the puggree as a head-piece. It is undeniably a fine thing when one is
riding on horseback, as it fits close to the bead, does not catch the wind
during a smart trot or canter, and is therefore not easily shaken off. For
riding I think it preferable to all other head-dresses. A good thick puggree
is a great protection to the back of the head and neck, the part of the body
which of all others requires protection from the •sun. It feels rather heavy
at first, but one gets used to it, and it does not shade the eyes and face.
These are the two gravest objections to it, but for comfort, softness, and
protection to the head and neck, I do not think it can be surpassed.
After crossing the sand, we again entered some thin scrubby
acacia jungle, with here and there a moist swampy nullah, with rank green
patair jungle growing in the cool dank shade. Here we disturbed a colony of
pigs, but the four mahouts being Mahommedans I did not fire. As we went
along, one of my men called my attention to some
footprints near a small lagoon. On inspection we found they
were rhinoceros tracks evidently of old date. These animals are often seen
in this part of the country, but are more numerous farther north, in the
great morung forest jungle.
A very noticeable feature in these jungles was the immense
quantity of bleached ghastly skeletons of cattle, This year had been a most
disastrous one for cattle. Enormous numbers had been swept .iff by disease,
and in many villages bordering on the morung the herds had been well-nigh
exterminated. Little attention is paid to breeding. In some districts, such
as the Mooteeharrce and Mudhobunnee division, fine cart-bullocks are bred,
carefully handled and tended, and fetch high prices. In Kurruekpore, beyond
the Ganges in Bhaugulpore district, cattle of a small breed, hardy, active,
staunch, and strong, are bred in great numbers, and are held in great
estimation for agricultural requirements; but in these Koosee jungles the
bulls are often ill-bred, weedy brutes, and the cows being much in excess of
a fair proportion of bulls, a deal of in-breeding takes place; unmatured
young bulls roam about with the herd, and the result is a crowd of cattle
that succumb to the first ailment, so that the land is uttered with their
bones.
The bullock being indispensable to the Indian cultivator,
bull calves are prized, taken care of, well nurtured and well fed. The cow
calves are pretty much left to take care of themselves; they are thin,
miserable, half-starved brutes, and the short-sighted ryot seems altogether
to forget that it is on these miserable withered specimens that he must
depend for Ids supply of plough- and cart-bullocks. The matter is most
shamefully neglected. Government occasionally through its officers,
experimental farms, etc., tries to get good sire stock for both horses and
cattle, but as long as the dams are bad— mere weeds, without blood, bone,
muscle, or stamina, the produce must be bad. As a pretty well established
and general rale, the ryots look after their bullocks,—they recognise their
value, and appreciate their utility, but the cows fare badly, and from all I
have myself seen, and from the concurrent testimony of many observant
friends in the rural districts, I should say that the breed has become much
deteriorated.
Old planters constantly tell yon, that such cattle as they
used to get are not now procurable for love or money. Within the last twenty
years prices have more than doubled, because the demand for good
plough-bullocks has been more urgent, as a consequence of increased
cultivation, and the supply is not equal to the demand. Attention to the
matter is imperative, and planters would be wise in their own interests to
devote a little time and trouble to disseminating sound ideas about the
selection of breeding stock, and the principles of rearing and raising stock
among their ryots and dependants. Every factory should be able to breed its
own cattle, and supply its own requirements for plough- and cart-bullocks.
It would be cheaper in the end, and it would undoubtedly be a blessing to
the country to raise the standard of cattle used in agricultural work.
To return from this digression. We plodded on and on weary,
hot, and thirsty, expecting every moment to see the ghat and my waiting
horse. But the country here is so wild, the river takes such erratic courses
during the annual floods, and the district is so secluded and so seldom
visited by Europeans or factory ser\ants, that my syce had evidently lost
his way. After we had crossed innumerable streams, and laboriously traversed
mile upon mile of burning sand, we gave up the attempt to find the ghat, and
made for Nathpore.
N athpore
was formerly a considerable town, not far from the Nepaul border, a
flourishing grain mart and emporium for the fibres, gums, spices, timbers,
and other productions of a wide frontier. There was a busy and crowded
bazaar, long streets of shops and houses, and hundreds of boats lying in the
stream beside the numerous ghats, taking in and discharging their cargoes.
It may give a faint idea of the destructive force of an Indian stream like
the Koosee when it is in full flood, to say that this once flourishing town
is now hut a handful of miserable huts. Miles of rich lands, once clothed
with luxuriant crops of rice, indigo, and waving grain, are now barren
reaches of burning sand. The bleached skeletons of mango, jackfruit, and
other trees, stretch out their leafless and lifeless branches, to remind the
spectator of the time when their foliage rustled in the breeze, when their
lusty limbs bore rich clusters of luscious fruit, and when the. din of the
bazaar resounded beneath their welcome shade. A fine old lady still lived in
a two-storied brick building, with quaint little darkened rooms, and a
narrow verandah running all round the building. She was long past the
allotted threescore years and ten, with a keen yet mildly beaming eye, and a
wealth of beautiful hair as white as driven snow, neatly gathered back from
her shapely forehead. She was the last remaining link connecting the present
with the past glories of Nathpore. Her husband had been a planter and
Zemindar. "Where his vats had stood laden with rich indigo, the engulfing
sand now reflected the rays of the torrid sun from its burning whiteness.
She showed me a picture of the town as it appeared to her when she had been
brought there many a long and weary year ago, ere yet liei step had lost its
lightness, and when she was in the bloom of her bridal life. There was a
fine broad boulevard, shadowed by splendid trees, on which she and her
husband had driven in their carriage of an evening, through crowds of
prosperous and contented traders and cultivators. The hungry river had swept
all tins away. Subsisting on a few precarious rents of some, little plots of
ground that it had spared, all that remained of a once princely estate, this
good old lady lived her lonely life cheerful and contented, never murmuring
or repining. The river had not spared even the graves of her departed dear
ones. Since I left that part of the country I hear that she has been called
away to join those who had gone before her.
I arrived at her house late in the afternoon. I had never
been at Nathpore before, although the place was well known to me by
reputation. What a wreck it presented as our elephants marched through.
Ruined, dismantled, crumbling temples; masses of masonry half submerged in
the swift running, treacherous, undermining stream; huge trees lying
prostrate, twisted and jammed together where the angry flood had hurled
them; bare unsightly poles and piles, sticking from the water at every
angle, reminding us of the granaries and godowns that were wont to be filled
with tlie agricultural wealth of the districts for miles around; hard
metalled roads cut abruptly off, ami bridges with only half an arch,
standing lonely and ruined half way in the muddy current that swept
noiselessly past the deserted city. It was a scene of utter waste and
desolation.
The lady I mentioned made me very welcome, and I was struck
by her unaffected cheerfulness and gentleness. She was a gentlewoman indeed,
and though reduced in circumstances, surrounded by misfortunes, and daily
and hourly reminded by the scattered wreck around her of her former wealth
and position, she bore all with exemplary fortitude, and to the full extent
of her scanty means she relieved the sorrows and ailments of the natives.
They all loved and respected, and I could not help admiring and honouring
her.
She pointed out to me, far away on the south-east horizon,
the place where the river ran in its shallow channel when she first came to
Nathpore. During her experience it had cut into and overspread more than
twenty miles of country, turning fertile fields into arid wastes of sand;
sweeping away factories, farms, and villages; and changing the whole face of
the country from a fruitful landscape into a wilderness of sand and swamp.
My horse came up in the evening, and I rode over to Ramputtee,
leaving my kindly hostess in her solitude. |