The northern part of this
parish lies in the lowest hollow of Strathmore, where probably at a
remote period was the bed of a large lake, which, finding a pretty level
passage into a small valley among the Sidlaws, formed a basin. This
basin, when the water was diverted into another channel, formed a marsh;
and at the head of it was built a Church, probably in the twelfth
century. From the nature of the situation, this Church took the name
Kinnettles, meaning in Gaelic “the head of the bog.” The marshy ground
still bears the name of “The Bogg.”
The parish is of nearly a
square form, two miles aside; and is enclosed by the three parishes,
Forfar, Glamis and Inverarity. Brigton Hill (543 ft), or, as it is
sometimes called, the Hill of Kinnettles (being divided between the
proprietors of the two estates of Brigton and Kinnettles), divides the
parish into pretty equal parts. The form of the hill is elliptical and
flat on the top; it is arable, except in a few acres of rocky land
crowned with varied coloured trees ; and its appearance adds much to the
beauty of the parish scenery. About half a century ago, a herd-boy sat
on that part of the hill which faces the valley of Strathmore; and,
fascinated with the grandeur of the view on a summer evening, when the
fiercely brilliant streaks of the sun’s crimson were disappearing, and
over the western hills a flush of orange hovered, ho made a strange
resolve, which showed the inherent genius and ambition beneath the
plebeian fustian, that if he should succeed in amassing wealth he would
buy that hill, and on that spot build his house. The wish and resolve
succeeded; and, in 1867, Paterson of Kinnettles built there one of the
most handsome and most handsomely furnished mansions we can find in any
part of the country.
Numerous springs supply
the parish with excellent water; one at the Kirkton discharging about
twenty-five gallons per minute. The Kerbet or Arity (rising in Dilty
Moss, in the parish of Carmylie), affords a diversified beauty to the
parish, gently flowing along, driving mills, and giving good sport to
anglers.
Whinstone rock is found
in several parts, but is difficult to work; though it is very useful, on
account of its lasting qualities for drains and road-metal. Sandstone,
stratified to the surface, forms the base of the hill of Kinnettles, and
furnishes stones of very large dimensions. Slate-rock, though not
extensive, is used for flagstones, which are of good quality. In these
three kinds of rock various ores are found, copper is embedded, and
veins of lead are disseminated; but the quantity is too small to pay the
working. Garnets, micas, and lime-spar are frequently met with. The soil
is various, consisting of brown clay, loam, mixed loam and clay, and
mixed loam and sand. Boulders were once very numerous; but these have
been blasted and removed. How these boulders, of a different character
from the adjoining rocks or soil, got into their places is a problem
which has excited the ingenuity of the Fellows of the Royal Society; and
after ten years’ enquiry over all Scotland, these learned men have
issued a Report (only the other day), making individual suggestions, but
not agreeing as to the exact way of accounting for their existence.
With such a variety of
soil and rock there is to be found a corresponding variety of flora.
Among these we can see the Milk-Thistle (with the white veins on its
leaves which give it its name); the Rest-harrow (with its handsome rose-coloured
leaves), generally found nearer the sea; and the Scarlet Pimpernel—the
Poor Man’s Weather-glass—whose brilliant petals close at the approach of
rain, thus alluded to by Dr. Jenner in his “Signs of Rain ”:—
“Closed is the pink-eyed
Pimpernel:
’Twill surely rain, I see with sorrow,
Our jaunt must be put off to-morrow.”
The parish has an
atmosphere of considerable humidity. The climate is mild and genial in
the valley, and pure and cold in the elevated situations; on the whole
it is good and salubrious. The Rev. Mr. Ferney, in the “Old Statistical
Account”—written in 1793—naturally wondered why so many people left the
healthy air of the country to live in the stifled dens of towns :—“ The
sickly looks of many children, in large, crowded, ill-situated towns,
show that the country is the preferable place for children. But how is
the prevailing resort to towns to be prevented, when the present taste
is to raze or suffer almost every unrequired house to go to decay?”
According to his experience, the year 1782 must have been a most
exceptionally bad one. The driest lands were not for receiving seed till
the 17th of April. About the 29th of May, it rained without intermission
for fifty hours. On the 10th of August, an uncommon flood chilled the
ground for a considerable time. On the morning of the 12th of September,
there was hoar-frost as thick as at Christmas; and after this was melted
by the sun’s heat, peas and potatoes had tho look of having been dipped
in boiling water. The corn soon grew white, then from whitish to green,
according as the frost or rain prevailed. The fine, deep, black soil
only produced from three to four bolls of oats per acre, so light that
it yielded mill-dust instead of meal. Considerable misery was the
result. Fortunately the next year’s harvest was early, producing a heavy
crop ; thus convincing men of the compensating powers of Nature. The
Rev. Robert Lunan, in his scholarly and elaborate notice in the “New
Statistical Account” of the parish—written in 1835— remarked:—“Every
species of corn is less or more exposed to the depredations of insects.
Wheat suffers from slugs ; but the greatest enemy that has yet assailed
it, is a fly that was introduced in 1826. This insect inserts into the
ear its ova, which, soon becoming small worms, injure it very much.
Wheat has in consequence been almost banished from the parish for the
last six years.”
Ecclesiastically, the
Church of Kinnettles was in the Diocese of St. Andrews. It stood upon an
eminence— called Kirkhill—not far from its present site. Kyneties,
Kinetlys, Kynathes, and Kynnecles are the oldest forms of its name in
the several charters. In 1189, during the Chancellorship of Hugh, King
William the Lion gave to the Priory of Rostinoth (then a cell of the
Abbey of Jedburgh), the lands of Cossans in exchange for those of
Foffarty in Kinnettles, which, with waters, woods, and plains, meadows
and pastures, muirs and marshes, were to be held in free and perpetual
alms by the Prior and Canons. In 1226, Laurence of Montealt was rector
of the Church. In the Taxatio of the Priory of St. Andrews, in 1250, the
Church of Kinetlys was rated at 18 merks. In 1264, Robert of Montealt,
Sheriff of Forfarshire, and his brother Laurence, the rector of
Kinnettles, were witnesses to the foundation charter of the Hospital, or
Maisondieu, of Brechin. Homage was paid to King Edward I. of England, in
1296, by "Mestre Nicol de Merton, persone del Eglise de Kynathes.” Four
years afterwards, tliis parson was a witness to a grant by Bishop
Luniberton of the Kirk of Dairsie, in Fife, to the Priory of St.
Andrews. From the Register of the Abbey of Arbroath we find that Mathew
was rector of the parish in 1364.
For two centuries we can
trace no references to this parish. In 1597, James Fotheringham was
minister of Kinnettles along with Inverarity and Meathie (suppressed in
1667 by the Court of Teinds), with a stipend of £8 6s. 8d. It was joined
to Forfar, Rostinoth, and Tannadice, in 1574, Alexander Neva being local
reader under the minister Ninian Clement. In 1604, King James VI. gave
the Church of Kinnettles to the Archbishop of St. Andrews. James
Lawmonth (with seventeen other ministers) was deposed in the Synod by
the Assembly’s Committee of Visitation, in 1649, for “insufficiencie for
the ministrie.” After his death, his widow received twelve shillings
from Archbishop Sharp, and was referred by the Synod to the charity of
the Kirk-sessions in the diocese. Alexander Taylor, the last Episcopal
clergyman of Kinnettles, was the author of a curious poem
entitled:—“Signal dangers and deliverances both by land and .«ea with a
violent tempest, when going to Edinburgh, in 1681, with Claverhonse and
many of his brethren for the purpose of taking the oath required by the
Test Act between Burntisland and Leith in the boat called "The
Blessing.” Here is a specimen of his quaint style, where he is
describing the effect of the stormy waves on the frail vessel:—
“Kach kept his time and
place,
As if they meant to drown us with a grace—
The first came tumbling on our boat’s side,
And knockt us twice her breadth and more beside
But next that it had wrought'ti no moro disgrace,
It spits oil us—spits in its follower’s face."
In 1743, Thomas Brown was
deposed for deserting his charge for seven months. Under an assumed name
he celebrated an irregular marriage, for which he was indicted and tried
before the High Court of Justiciary, and transported to the British
plantations in America for fourteen years.
At the time of the
Reformation, the Bishop of Dunkeld was propietor of 250 acres (quoad
dvilia in Caputh), which he let to Alexander Pyott, a staunch papist.
Alarmed at the progress of Protestantism, Pyott, with the Bishop's
consent, went to Rome, and got the deed of conveyance confirmed by a
Papal Bull. Though we cannot ascertain the date, yet sometime after the
Reformation this propietor of Foffarty, aided by the Catholics in the
neighbourhood, built a chapel there (probably on the site of an old
chapel), and appointed a priest, with manse, offices, and glebe. This
chapel was burnt by a party of royal dragoons in 1745. Remaining
roofless and ruinous for many years, the stones were afterwards used for
making drains. Mr. Bower of Kincaldrum removed the stone, which
contained the holy water, to his own premises. The glebe of the
statutory five acres remained unclaimed for many years after the
demolition of the chapel. The Earl of Strathmore, in 1758, bought the
lands of Foffarty; yet, for a long time, he would not venture to break
up the glebe, but let it lie waste and unclaimed. As it was declared by
the General Assembly of 1773, quoad civilia in the parish of Caputh, the
minister of that parish about eighty years ago advanced his claim to it;
but he lost it in the Court from the want of a charter and occupancy.
But the whole lands of Foffarty, being church-lands, pay no teind to
this day. The Parochial records consist of six old volumes, containing
notes of the doings of the people under the old and time-honoured
ecclesiastical police supervision. The modern ones are in accordance
with improved ideas.
Historically, we have not
much to say about Kinnettles. A branch of the famous family of the
Lindsays settled there about the year 1511, and flourished in
considerable repute for nearly a century and a-half. Robert, a
descendant of a younger brother of the third Earl of Crawford, was the
first Lindsay of Kinnettles. In 1612, one of the family of Wishart of
Logie- Wishart, who was proprietor of Balindarg in Kirriemuir, had an
interest in the lands of Ingleston (in Eassie) and Kinnettles. In the
churchyard of Rescobie is a tombstone where the inscription shows that
one of the two wives of the minister there (David Lindsay), in 1677, was
Marjory, daughter of Lindsay of Kinnettles. This Marjory was the aunt of
the famous Dr. Thomas Lindsay, Archbishop of Armagh, and Primate of all
Ireland, who died in 1713. With him all trace of the male descendants of
the house of Kinnettles passed away. Mr. Bower of Kincaldrum then became
proprietor. Of this family was the learned Jesuit Archibald (1686-1700),
whose principal work was a “History of the Popes,” in seven volumes,
concerning which, as well as his connection with the Jesuits, he stood
accused of much imposture. About the middle of last century, the
proprietor of Brigton was Mr. Douglas, who did much good to the parish,
and after whom the village of Douglaston took its name. His gardener’s
son, William Patterson, born in 1755, had the good fortune to receive
the patronage of Lady Alary Lyon of Glamis, by whom he was educated, lie
rose to the dignified station of Colonel of the 102nd Regiment and
Lieutenant-Governor of New South Wales. After a long period of
ill-health, he attempted to return to his native country, but died on
the voyage in 1810. A cenotaph, with a suitable inscription, containing
an account of his services and abilities, was afterwards erected in
Kinnettles churchyard. About the beginning of this century, Kinnettles
was possessed by the family of Harvey, one of whom, John Inglis Harvey,
in 1823, obtained an appointment to a very honourable and distinguished
office in the East Indies; afterwards becoming a Civil Judge there. It
is stated that Harvey was to be proprietor of the estate (which came by
his wife) so long as his wife was above ground; accordingly, to keep to
the letter of the deed of settlement, he, after his wife’s death, put
her into a glass case which he laid into a mausoleum above ground, and
thereby retained his vested rights.
The churchyard contains
some very old tomb-stones. One of date 1626 is quite legible, and
another of 1630. From the shape of the letters, and the quality of the
stone, some undated appear to be even much older. Two large monuments,
and a number of stones, well designed and executed, occupy prominent
places; but most conspicuous of all are those erected, in 1814, for the
three principal families in the parish. The Church was entirely rebuilt
in 1812; and is commodious and substantial, seated for 420 sitters. With
the exception of the seats of the heritors, minister, and elders, the
sittings are let annually, to keep up the neccssary expenses. The Manse
was rebuilt in 1801, and has been frequently repaired— the old Manse
having lasted from 1737, with one repair in 1785. Mr. Femey, in his
Account of the parish, very judiciously suggested that the ordinary
glebe to a minister is little more than a “ white elephant,” for he
said:—“A minister, labouring it at the expense of a man and two horses,
must be a considerable loser. It was an unlucky circumstance, in
assigning land to ministers, that the Legislature did not think of
allotting more.” However, the good feeling which ought to subsist
between a minister and his people is often creditably shown by the
farmers working the glebe for the minister—a great saving to him, and no
loss to them.
In 1833, the upper stone
of a hand-mill, of mica-schist, was dug up in a grass-field. It was 25
inches in diameter, and 1½ inch in thickness—being nearly circular, with
a neat chisel ornament round the central opening. This is probably of
great antiquity—having been in use long before the larger mill driven by
oxen; and that would likely be before the Romans were in Britain, or two
thousand years ago.
Towards the end of last
century, Mr. Douglas of Brigton erected a large and commodious
spinning-mill, of twelve horse-power—driven originally by water, then
partly by steam, which gave employment to a considerable number of
hands. The same gentleman superintended the thorough repairing of the
roads, and the erection of stone bridges, which do him lasting honour.
There are two villages — Doucdaston and Kirkton — where the houses are
well built, and tidily kept. The public school is in the former, and is
a very commodious building. What a difference between the life of the
teacher of to-day and that of the dominie of a hundred years ago ! Now
ho is far better off than the minister, for his salary is as good, and
he is expected to keep up less ; but before he had a pitiful
living—salary, £5; fees, £4 13s. 9d.; registrar and session-clerk’s
extras, £2 8s. 4d.—in all, £12 2s. 1d., less than the income of a common
labourer of his day. There is also a Free Church in the parish.
The population has
decreased from 616 in 1755 to 418 in 1881, principally by reason of the
enlarging of the farms. The rental has increased from £1600 in 1790 to
£6529 in 1883. The valued rent is £155 sterling.
A century ago, tinkers—a
class of sturdy beggars of both sexes—were a source of great annoyance
to the poor people. Their insolence, idleness, and dishonesty made them
ready for prey of all kinds. Mr. Ferney wisely remarked of these:—“So
long as mankind are supported by strolling, the industry and ingenuity
of thousands must be lost to the community, and vice cherished to a
considerable degree.” Of his own parishioners he was proud, as they were
“pretty remarkable for an acuteness of genius, which enables them to
attain to dexterity in their several occupations.” The boundaries
between the ranks were more distinctly marked, and more attentively
observed. There were in the parish only one coach and one two-wheeled
chaise. The judicious difference of rank, which forms the very
life-blood of a healthy nation, is by no means so carefully respected in
our day; and, by the test of the very existence of our country as a
recognised great power in the world, our successors will judge which is
the more lasting and disastrous evil—the old aristocratic tyranny, or
the levelling despotism of communism. Yet it would be well for the
proprietors here, as in other parts of Scotland, to recognise the fact,
which will be taught them yet more bitterly—whatever be their political
leanings—that it is unwise, and ultimately suicidal, to attempt to force
out of the land a rent which is not in it; and it would be for the true
conservation of this important interest, if they, admitting this fact,
would arrange, by arbitration and common-sense, what (we are afraid) may
yet be done by statutory enactment. If they are wise in time, and act on
this principle in a body, the clamant cry will be smothered, and
Westminster will be saved from displays of the passionate clashing of
interested classes, which, in the peculiar circumstances that occasioned
the passing of the Land Act for Ireland, well nigh broke up the
Constitution of our United Empire. |