This parish—the
metropolitan of the Presbytery—is situated in the centre of Strathmore
and the east of Perthshire. It is bounded on the north and north-west by
the Dean and Isla; on the east and south by Eassie and Nevay and Newtyle;
on the west and south-west by Cupar and Kettins. Its length is about
five miles, and its breadth two miles. The two Statistical Accounts of
the parish were written by shrewd and carefully observing men, viz., Dr.
James Playfair and Dr. Mitchell. The latter considers that the name of
the parish was derived from its local situation—Midgill, or between the
“gills” or marshes; the Church and Manse being built on a plain between
two marshes. But Jervise supposes that it comes from Migdel, “the plain
with the dales.” The name has various ways of spelling—Miggil, Megill,
Migell; in an old map of 1640 Migle, with a large shaded part for Migle
Moss; and in the return of Presbyteries to the General Assembly of 1593,
Migel. The Dean is a sluggish, deep river, issuing from Forfar Loch,
twelve miles distant; and is particularly noted for its excellent trout,
generally very heavy, red-fleshed, and flavoured to meet the taste of
the most fastidious gourmand. It flows into the Isla about half a mile
from the village of Meisle. This river, in floodtime especially, is far
more rapid; occasionally, after melting snows or a spate, it overflows
its banks, and with resistless force sweeps away whole harvests,
irretrievably destroying -
“The well-earned treasures
of the labouring year.”
The parish has very
little variation of surface, the soil in some places being sandy, in
others clayey, but generally of a rich black loam, and all is well
cultivated.
There are many remains of
antiquity, but we are left very much to tradition for any explanation,
which is certainly very meagre and unsatisfactory. The tales and stories
which have been handed down through successive generations are far too
wild and extravagant for this matter-of-fact and utilitarian age.
Abandoning, therefore, the most improbable, we shall examine the more
remarkable monuments of antiquity in the parish, taking notice of the
most plausible accounts which have come down to us concerning them. A
little south of the village is situated Belmont Castle, once the seat of
Lord Wharncliffe, an elegant modem quadrangular pile, agglomerated .with
the old tower of a former mansion. It is situated on the highest
eminence in the parish, 204 feet above the level of the sea, and
commands an extensive view of the plain. By a most unexpected accident
it was, a year ago, almost entirely burned down to the ground,
destroying some elegantly built and furnished apartments. Before this
unfortunate fire this Castle, with its nice gardens and fine enclosures,
beautiful lawn, and very old stately trees, rendered it the most
delightful residence in Strathmore. Dr. Robertson of Callendar, in his
“Agriculture of Perthshire” (1799), mentions it as a “magnificent place,
and next to Glamis the ornament of Strathmore.” The Castle, policy, and
two adjoining farms have been recently sold to the Right Hon. H.
Campbell-Bannerman, M.P., the Chief Secretary for Ireland, for £52,000.
In Roman Catholic times it was the residence of the Bishops of Dunkeld,
under the name Kirkhill which it retained till about a hundred years
ago. To show the connection of the parish with the Abbey of Dunkeld, the
greater part of the stipend of Dunkeld is still paid out of Meigle; and
to implement the last augmentation granted by the Court of Teinds to the
minister of Meigle, it was found necessary to take so much off the
stipend of the minister of Dunkeld. Some of the most majestic beeches
ever we saw are in the policies of Belmont Castle, the solid wood of one
being calculated, below the offset of the branches, to measure 276 cubic
feet. Taken as a whole, the ornamental timber in the park is unequalled
in Scotland for size and beauty. In the enclosures of the castle there
is a tumulus called Belliduff, which tradition gives as the spot where,
in 1056, Macbeth was killed in battle by Macduff. Taking the most
reliable facts out of the mass of fiction, we see that Macbeth, after
murdering King Duncan, was crowned King; but this soon roused up the
revengeful ire of Malcolm, Duncan’s son, who was heartily assisted by
the English King, Edward the Confessor. The English forces marched as
far north as Dunsinane, one of the Sidlaws, where they had a furious
hand-to-hand conflict with Macbeth, who commanded his troops in person.
After many displays of courage Macbeth was obliged to retreat; and
tradition fixes Belliduff as a likely place where Macduff, Thane of
Fife, to gratify personal revenge, slew the King in single combat We are
glad to see that the learned historian, Burton, has thin assigned
Macbeth a higher place than many others give him :—“The deeds which
raised Macbeth and his wife to power were not in appearance much worse
than others of their day, done for similar ends. However, he may have
gained his power, he exercised it with good repute, according to the
reports nearest to his time.” We know that Macbeth is the first king who
appears in the ecclesiastical records as a benefactor of the Church ;
for, according to the Register of the Priory of St. Andrews, he granted
some lands to the Monastery of Loch Leven About a mile distant from
Belliduff stands, almost erect, a large whinstone block of twenty tons
in weight, to commemorate the death of some military commander, and is
called by tradition “Siward’s or Macbeth’s Stone.”
When the Knight Templars
were in pomp (from the foundation of the order of military monks in
1118), they had considerable interest in Meigle, several lands in the
parish being still known as the Temple Lands. We prefer this derivation
to the common one of templum, any religious house. The earliest recorded
lords of Meigle belonged to a family who assumed it for their surname.
They had their lands from William the Lion; in his time (1180), Simon de
Miggil was Lord of the Manor. The last notice of the surname is that of
Rogier de Miggel, who along with the Perthshire barons swore fealty to
Edward I. in 1296. The first Earl of Crawford, in founding the choirs of
our Lady of Victory and St. George at Dundee (in 1398), gave an annual
of 12 merks out of the lands of Balmyle. Meigle was for some time part
of the lordship of Crawford, from which the scapegrace, Lord Lindsay,
over-ran and up-lifted the rents in the time of his father, the Duke of
Montrose, who was compelled to crave Parliament, in 1489, to protect
him; in answer to which the offender was ordained to remedy all the
evils which the lands of “Megill and Rothuen” had sustained.
Drumkilbo, a mile east of
the village, is a fine mansion embosomed in wood. Kinloch, the residence
of Sir John Kinloch, is pleasantly situated a mile and a half west of
the village. When Mr. Murray of Simprim lived at Meigle House, Sir
Walter Scott was more than once his guest. And near Simprim, at Cardean,
there are still the vestiges of a camp,
But it is the antique and
curious monuments in the churchyard which have most of all attracted the
public eye to the parish. The accounts of antiquarians so stirred up the
enthusiasm of the community, that a few 3rears ago the late Sir George
Kinloch, the Superior of Meigle, thought it advisable to protect them
from the ravages of the weather and the hammering tourist. Accordingly,
without consulting the Kirk-Session or Presbytery (the custodiers of all
pre-reformation remains in the churchyard or church), he, by mistake,
removed some to the old school, which at a very high figure he had
purchased for the purpose of forming a parish museum. Decided action was
taken by the Presbytery, and a compromise was at last come to between
the two conflicting parties, by which the sculptured stones, that had
already been removed, would not be ordered to be returned to the
churchyard, as Sir George had agreed to enclose the old school within
the churchyard, with free admission to any parishioner. In the
churchyard (for the stones in the old school are now also in the
churchyard), are the remains of the grand sepulchral monument of
Guinevere, the wife of King Arthur, who flourished in the sixth century,
but whose history is involved in fable. Before describing the remains in
these remarkable stones, we will mention a few points brought out so
beautifully by the Poet Laureate, Lord Tennyson, in his “Holy Grail” and
“The Idylls of the King.” It happened that
“Leodogran, the King of
Cameliard,
Had one fair daughter, and none other child ;
And she was fairest of nil flesh on earth,
Guinevere, and in her his one delight.”
Till Arthur came near,
the country was in a very wild state, where the “beast was ever more and
more ; but man was less and less.” Passing by the Castle walls, a
strange sensation possessed Arthur; for though he looked down, he “Felt
the light of her eyes into his life Smite on the sudden;” and in deep
and charmed meditation, he resolved to be “join’d with her, that
reigning with one will in everything, they might have power to lighten
all the land.” After some negotiating, Arthur’s chief knight, Sir
Launcelot, was sent for Guinevere to make her Queen. Happy for a short
time only did they live, for strangely had she given Launcelot her love,
in spite of the “dear face of the guileless King.” Meeting by
arrangement to sin and part, “passion pale they greeted; hands in hands,
and eye to eye, they sat stammering and staring low on the border of her
couch.” It was a madness of farewell, for in guilt she exclaimed—“Would
God, that thou could’st hide me from myself! Mine is the shame, for I
was wife, and thou unwedded.” They parted; and she went to a nunnery,
unknown among them, till one day the cry, “The King!” startled her, and
so great was her misery that “There with her milk-white arms and shadowy
hair She made her face a darkness from the King.”
Arthur met her, and in
pity and broken love addressed her with pathetic appeals to penitence;
he loved her, yet he could not restore her altogether. Bitterly he must
say
“Thou hast not made my
life so sweet to me,
That I, the King, should greatly care to live :
For thou hast spoilt the purpose of my life.
I hold that man the worst of public foes
Who, either for his own or children’s sake,
To save his blood from scandal, lets the wife
Whom he knows false, abide and rule the house.”
According to the
tradition, Guinevere was put in captivity on Barryhill, in Alyth, and
ultimately torn to pieces by wild beasts; though Tennyson, throwing back
on heathen times the Christian spirit, does not adopt any so cruel
denouement for his series of beautiful idyls. One thing is pretty
certain from all accounts, she was buried at Meigle, and a monument was
erected to perpetuate her sin. This memorial originally consisted of
many stones artfully joined, and decorated with a variety of symbolical
characters, strangely monstrous in their nature, and representative of
revengeful violence on a woman. “ On one stone are three small crosses,
with many animals above and below. On another is a cross adorned with
various flowers, and the rude representations of fishes, beasts, and men
on horseback. On a third is an open chariot drawn by two horses, and
some persons in it; behind is a wild beast devouring a human form lying
prostrate on the earth. On a fourth is an animal somewhat resembling an
elephant. On another, eight feet long, and three feet three inches
broad, standing upright in a socket, there is a cross. In the middle are
several figures with the bodies of horses, or camels, and the heads of
serpents; on each side of which are wild beasts and reptiles
considerably impaired. On the reverse is the figure of a woman, attacked
on all sides by dogs and other furious animals. Above are several
persons on horseback, with hounds engaged in the chase. Below is a
centaur, and a serpent of enormous size fastened on the mouth of a
bull.” Such is the description given by Dr. Playfair, minister of the
parish in 1790, and afterwards Principal of the University of St.
Andrews. Pennant in his “Tour,” Jervise in his “Sculptured Stones," but
especially Dr Stewart in his very costly volumes, give accurate drawings
of these stones. However, there seems no satisfactory accounting fur the
strange hieroglyphics; many guesses have been made by antiquarians and
historians^ but there is none sufficiently consistent for insertion
here. Superstition went the length of saying, according to the fabulous
Boece, that, if a young woman walked over the grave of Guinevere, she
would entail on lierself perpetual sterility: “All wemen that stampis on
this sepulture shall be ay barrant, but ony fruit of their womb sichlike
as Guanora was.” Certainly there is no such superstition now! A property
adjoining Meigle, called Arthurstone, contains some strange monoliths
suggestive of the legendary connection of Arthur with the district. It
took its name from one enormous block or outlier of sandstone of such
dimensions that a cottage was built out of it. Dr. Robertson says of
this mansion, that “by the time the proprietor has had time to ornament
his fields in the same style as in the architecture of his dwelling, it
will be esteemed by posterity as a specimen of the elegant taste
displayed in the end of the eighteenth century.” More than half a
century ago, when the body of the old church was taken down, a font for
holy water, of very hard stone, was dug out of the rubbish. Its form is
octagonal, each side bearing some emblem of the crucifixion upon it, as
the “ mock robe,” the “ spear and sponge,” &c. For some time Dr.
Mitchell kept this on a pedestal in the manse garden. But about thirty
years ago it was granted for the baptism of one of the Kinloch family,
and is now in the Episcopal Chapel at Meigle.
The church, originally
dedicated to St. Peter the Apostle, along with its pertinents, was in
1177 given to the Prior of St. Andrews by Simon of Miggil, lord of the
district. From the Register of the Priory of St. Andrews (written in
very contracted Latin), we have been able to ascertain that, in 1183,
Pope Lucius confirmed this grant of “the church of Miggil with the
chapel belonging to it, and the ecclesiastical seat and the returns
which Simon, lord of the manor, and his ancestors were annually
accustomed to receive.” Pope Gregory VIII. in 1187, Clement in the same
year, Innocent III. in 1206, Honorius in 1216, and Innocent IV. in 1246,
renewed this confirmation of the grant to the Priory of St. Andrews. The
chapel belonging to the church, and dedicated to the blessed Virgin,
stood one mile west. About twenty years ago the ruins, ivy-clad, still
remained on the ground called Chapelton ; but in its place was then
built a handsome Mausoleum for Kinloch of Kinloch. The two—the Church of
St. Peter and the Chapel of St. Mary—were in the Tavatlo of 1275 rated
at 20 merks.
In 1238, Galfridus,
Bishop of Dunkeld, settled the church lands of Megill, having with Fuleo,
lord of Megill, made a personal inspection. In 1260 Michael of Migell
bestowed the Moss in his property on the Abbey of Cupar. In 1443, the
lands of Balmyle, which belonged to the Abbey of Cupar, were leased for
thirteen chalders of barley and flour with other due services to the
Abbey. In 1495, David, Duke of Montrose, mortified lands for the soul of
his benefactor, James III, in the Church of Meigle. In 1500, James and
Andrew Hering of Clony held the lordship of Megill for five years.
According to Alexander Myln, who wrote the lives of the bishops of
Dunkeld in 1515, John Locock, vicar of Megill, was Prebend of Capeth, in
his time, “a most faithful man, who, though ho did not abound in many
emoluments of the benefices, yet cherished a sufficiently largo family
of friends; banqueting at his table with merry countenance; built his
manse from the foundation; increased by twenty shillings annually the
endowment of the church of St. Peter, which had been endowed by his
paternal uncle Chancellor James Locock.” At the Reformation it was
styled, “ane of the common kirks of Dunkeld.” In 1574, David Ramsay was
minister of all the four parishes of Meigle, Ruthven, Alyth and Glenisla.
But in 1585, James Nicolson was minister of Meigle and had for his
stipend the “haill fruits’’ paying the minister of Alyth out of it. He
was a member of fifteen Assemblies, and was elected Moderator in 1595
and 1606. In 1607, he became Bishop of Dunkeld, purchased for him by the
King from the former incumbent; but this he did not live to enjoy, as he
died in seven months. In 1639, a petition was presented to Parliament,
craving to have the parish dissolved from Dunkeld; and this was referred
to the Commissioners for the Planting of Kirks. But in 1677, William
Lindsay, Bishop of Dunkeld still held Meigle in his charge. His
successor, Bishop John Hamilton, possessed the same privilege ; but he,
as well as his helper in Meigle, was deprived by the Privy Council in
1689, for not reading the proclamation of the Estates, and not praying
for their majesties in terms thereof, but “praying for King James, and
that God would give him the necks of his enemies.” In 1800, Dr. Playfair
left Meigle to be Principal of the United College, St. Andrews; and, in
1809, Daniel Robertson left to be Professor of Hebrew in the same
University. In 1808, a Committee of Presbytery reported that two acres
of ground had been set apart for “minister’s grass” for two cows and one
horse.
Meigle is now the seat of
the Presbytery of the same name. In 1581, the General Assembly proposed
to call it the Presbytery of Kethenis, but changed it to Meigle before
1593 ; when it included, besides the present parishes, Kirriemuir,
Kinnettles, Cortachy, Rattray, and Glamis. The Presbytery Records begin
on the 8th November, 1659, and continue till 15th March, 1687; when the
Presbytery of Cupar-Angus was erected by the Bishop and Synod of
Dunkeld, and continued for two years. But on the change of church
government, the old arrangement was restored. The Presbytery for a time
formed part of Angus and Mearns; but was afterwards joined to Dundee and
Forfar, until 2’Ist April 1703. The Records of the Presbytery of Meigle
as at present constituted, commenced 19th October 1704, and are
contained in twelve volumes; the two volumes up to 1G59 being
unfortunately lost. Dr. Robertson in his “Agriculture of Perthshire,”
states that the Fiars of the county in 17S0, were :—Bear first sort,
11s. 6d. per boll, and meal 13s. 4d.; in 1788, 12s. and 11s. 6d.
respectively; and in 1795, 22s. 6d. and 22s. 8d. respectively. The
present fluctuation of stipends had therefore a corresponding change at
the end of last century. The Clerk of Presbytery (The Rev. Dr. Chree of
Lintrathen) has very kindly gone through a considerable part of their
Records for important information ; but he has not found much to reward
his labour.
The estate of Kinloch,
though quoad sacra in Meigle, is temporal iter in Cupar-Angus. There is
no vestige of a Roman highway in the neighbourhood of Meigle. A very old
bridge over the Dean connected Meigle and Airlie ; but a more commodious
one has been built in its stead. Until about fifty years ago, the Isla
had to be crossed, on the road from Dundee to Alyth, by a ferry-boat.
Several attempts were made to have a bridge built there ; but these were
frustrated by the Societies which were peculiarly interested in their
success. At length, however, the fine bridge of three arches at Crathie
was built. Though of high span (apparently needlessly high in ordinary
weather), yet by sudden meltings of snow on the hills, or by heavy
rains, the Isla has not been able to get sufficient room for its
impetuous current, and has burst out upon the road.
The valued rental of the
parish is £350; the real rent is now above £8,000. The population a
century ago was 1148; now it is 966. The decrease is owing to the
enlargement of the farms, the stoppage of hand-loom weaving, and the
closing of the work-mill for dyeing and dressing cloths for umbrellas.
Before the ’45 Rebellion the state of the country was rude beyond
description. The bulk of the inhabitants was only semi-civilized. The
common people lived in despicable huts with their cattle. The indolence
of the farmers was astonishing. When seed time was finished, the plough
and harrow were laid aside till the autumn; digging and carrying peat
for winter fuel being the summer’s work. The rent of good ground in
Meigle, before 1745, was from 8 to 14 shillings per acre; of outlying
ground from 2 to 5 shillings. The wages of a male servant were £1 10s.;
of a female 12s. The price of a horse was £4 6s., of an ox £2, of a
sheep 5s., of a hen 4d., of a dozen of eggs 1d. A cart cost 14s., a
plough 5s., a harrow 6d. A great effort was made, soon after the
rebellion was quieted, to emancipate the inhabitants from the state of
barbarism, and to rouse a spirit of industry. Farms were enclosed, sheep
were driven away from infield grounds, marl was used from the myres, and
in a few years a marked change took place. As Dr. Playfair pointedly
puts it:—“The tenant, as if awaked out of a profound sleep, looked
around, beheld his fields clothed with the richest harvests, his herds
fattening in luxurious pastures, his family decked in gay attire, his
table loaded with solid fare, and wondered at his former ignorance and
stupidity.” Dr. Playfair, according to Dr. Robertson, was “no less
amiable for his discretion than distinguished by his literary
abilities.” Among the interesting notes which he left, we observe that
the average rain per annum for five years amounted to 37 inches; the
mean barometric reading for three years was 29‘63 inches (at the height
of 203 feet) ; the mean thermometric reading for the same time, 42°; the
average number of days per annum (taken for 5 years), when the wind was
S.E 88, and from the S.W. 137.
The earliest date of the
Parochial Registers is 1727; then the daily Sabbath collection for the
poor amounted to less than 2s; in 1782 the suras received and those
distributed in charity began to come more nearly equal. In 1833, when
Dr. Mitchell wrote his Account of the parish, there were five inns or
taverns; now there is but one: then the ploughmen had a friendly society
which was working well; we do not hear of it now. The village of Meigle
contains 300 inhabitants, and Longlees about 50. There is a railway
station at Meigle, which once very inconveniently wont by the name of
Fuliarton, after the farm through which the line passes. There are two
banks, a first-class new school, a handsome new Parish Church, a Free
Church, and an Episcopal Chapel. A monthly market is held on the second
Wednesday, during six months of the year ; and on the last Wednesday of
June and October, half-yearly fairs arc held for cattle, horses, and
ordinary traffic, when a great crowd assembles. A century ago, when
there wore fewer means of travelling, they had a weekly market on
Wednesday. It is thirteen miles from Dundee and five from Cupar-Angus. A
considerable quantity of potatoes and grain is taken away by the
railway—a great benefit to many farmers who are struggling hard to keep
up the well-earned prestige of Strathmore, against bad times and high
rents. The Presbytery still adhere to the time-honoured custom of
holding their meetings in the village inn, a circumstance which
certainly speaks well for the character of the inn, and the heedless-ness
of the ministers to the narrow criticism of would-be-purer men. A dozen
years ago, when some of the younger members expressed a strong desire to
have the meetings in the Church, after deliberation, as the Records
show, “tho Presbytery agreed to abide in the inn.” |