Nature has been
particularly favourable to the inhabitants of East Perthshire—for they
live in the most magnificent valley that Great Britain contains.
Strathmore (or the Great Valley) is an almost uninterrupted plain of
from one to sixteen miles in breadth, stretching for eighty miles from
Aberfoyle to Stonehaven. But the Strath proper, from Methven to Brechin,
can be easily taken in by the eye on a clear day from any of the lesser
heights on the northern slope; whereas the “Howe of Strathmore,” to
which we are to confine ourselves in these articles, may be considered
generally as extending from Kettins, Cupar-Angus, Bendochy and Kinloch
on the west to Kirriemuir and Forfar on the east; the lower Grampians
bounding it on the north and the Sidlaws on the south; altogether,
according to Edward in 1678, “the most plain pleasant and fruitful part
of the whole of Strathmore.”
What an enchanting
panorama is before one, when he looks at Strathmore from Barry Hill in
Alyth Parish! How beautifully variegated with wood and pasture-land
among the highly cultured fields—in front the wooded Sidlaws; behind the
heaven-kissing Grampians ! With all his passion for Nature, Christopher
North could not have exaggerated the varied beauty and fertility before
him. Studded with small towns, its teeming population —with all the wild
dance of insect life in late spring— lends enchantment to Nature’s
beauty. Elegant mansions, embedded in warm, wooded spots, give evidence
of the numerous proprietors who love to dwell in this picturesque plain.
Well could Nature’s poet, Thomson, have written of Strathmore :—
“Enchanting vale ! Beyond
whate’er tho Muig
Has of Achaia or Hesperia sung!
O vale of bliss! O softly swelling hills,
On which the power of cultivation lies,
And joys to see the wonders of its toil!"
And beautifully
conspicuous in this earthly Paradise lies the lovely town of
Blairgowrie. Approaching it from the east on a clear June evening, we
know no more enchanting scene. Virgil has some descriptions of natural
scenery which, in his matchless harmony of song, seem aptly fitted for
this rural scene. The harsh grandeur of the Northern and Western
Highlands is here supplanted by a cheerful mildness and a sylvan joy.
The giants of Highland story give place here to the elves and fairies
who ever trip about from dewy morn to heaveri-flushed eve. Rich
pasture-lands with lowing kine; lusty swains and laughing maidens in
mutual labour at the hearty hay making; knots of wood with their
unscorched green foliage; extensive fields of freshly-shot corn and
darker-hued potato, surround the happy town, basking in the golden
light, which the western hills have mellowed and cheered and freshened
by the constant flow of Ericht’s rapid stream.
The name of Blairgowrie
is by some derived from the Gaelic blar—ghobhar "the plain of the wild
goats;” but we think more simply and more reasonably by others from blar,
a place where moor and moss abound, and gowrie, tho ancient name of the
district possessed by that unfortunate family. The contour of the parish
(quoad civilia) is very irregular, being frequently intersected by the
parishes of Kinloch, Bendochy, and Rattray; and its area is about 10½
square miles. Since the Highland portion of Persie and the south-western
portion of St. Mary’s have been removed as new quoad sacra parishes, the
original parish has become more regular and manageable. In the original
parish the upper division extends for several miles along the west side
of Glen Ericht, a marvellously romantic glen, through which, in the
stormy wars between the Highlands and Lowlands, many a chivalrous band
passed. The Marquis of .Montrose went through this in his hostile
descents from the Highlands. The Ericht, called “Ireful” on account of
its rapidity, flows through the glen, in a very rocky channel. About two
miles north of the town the rocks rise perpendicularly to the great
height of 300 feet, and stand like hewn walls of 700 feet in extent. The
place where this phenomenon is presented is called Craighoch, or “The
Eagle’s Crag.” At the base of this rock is a cave which seems to have
been cut out by the violent removal of masses of rock. Here the scenery
is awe-inspiring, one of the most grandly romantic in North Britain.
Suddenly at this precipitous point the scene changes with kaleidoscopic
variety. Strangely savage does Nature now appear. The rocks, commanding
and irregular, overhang a deep and sombre chasm, at the bottom of which
the Ericht forms a sullen and inky pool of great depth. No wonder that,
in the strongly imaginative mind of the Highlander, these weird
associations created a mysterious legend to charm the romantic scene. On
the very edge of the precipice, and on the angle of the rock, the
remains of a circular tower are still discernible ; ruins which show
that the building must have been of great strength and height. It went
by the name of Lady Lindsay’s Castle. According to the legend, some
centuries ago a daughter of the valiant house of Crawford had committed
some deep and deadly sin. Nothing but the expiation of His Holiness at
Rome could restore her peace and the honour of her house. And this
pardon was granted only on condition of a life-time’s penance. The lady
submitted, and was confined within that gloomy tower for the remainder
of her life. On the other side of the river is the mansion-house of
Craighall, to be described in the article on Rattray.
Close to the town, the
Ericht has a considerable descent to the valley of Strathmore, and forms
a natural cascade, considerably improved by art, called the “Keith."
This is peculiarly adapted for obstructing the salmon in their ascent
for spawning. The river then flows on, bounding the parish, till it
joins the Isla on its course to the Tay. The Hill of Blair is the first
of a series of elevations which rise steeply from the plain. On its
summit is finely situated the Parish Church, which commands a grand
view. Close behind is a deep ravine, finely wooded, descending
precipitately to the bed of the river. Again there rises higher another
ridge, called Knock-ma-har, partly cultivated and partly planted with
Scotch fir, sloping abruptly to tho Lornty burn. Beyond this is a still
higher and more extensive ridge, called the Maws, on which are
well-cultivated and good grain-producing farms. "West of this lies the
ancient lairdship of Drumlochy, the ruins of whose fortress are still
seen in the enormous thickness of the loopholed walls. Above this again
is the great peat moss of Cochridge, which, in the “dry year” 1826, was
accidentally set on fire, and continued to smoulder underneath the
surface till extinguished by the following snows. The northern extremity
of the parish is called Kingseat, on the west side of the Hill of
Colliemore, 1000 feet above the level of the sea. The lower division of
the parish stretchcs south of the town to the middle of the Strath,
where there is an extensive tract of flat moor, called the “Muir o’
Blair,” partly wooded, and partly laid out with fields of strawberries,
for the Dundee and Glasgow markets.
There is a chalybeate
spring in the Cloves (cliffs) of Maws called the “heugh well,” the water
of which has been found very beneficial for skin diseases and
derangement of the stomach. Six lochs adorn the parish, especially
Stormont Loch, which in winter is the scene of many a tussle at the
“roaring game.” On an island in the middle of it are the remains of an
old building, in which tradition says treasures were concealed in
perilous times, thus acquiring its name. Some antiquarians are of
opinion that the battle between the Romans under Agricola, and the
Caledonians under Galgacus, was fought in the Stormont in A.D. 84. Skene,
in his “Celtic Scotland,” considers the Mons Grampius of the Roman
historian to be the Hill of Blair, 690 feet high. There are many places
called “Cairn,” as Balcairn, Cairn Butts, &c.; and as it was a custom
with the ancient Britons to raise these cairns or heaps of stones as
monuments for their fallen chiefs, it is not improbable that these
antiquarians are correct. Moreover, early in the last century, there was
dug up, out of a moss bog in the neighbourhood, the body of a Roman
soldier in full armour and in an upright position. There is no doubt, at
anyrate, that many of the Highlanders, when forced to yield to superior
weapons and discipline, were killed in their flight through the parish.
On a wooded knoll, about
a mile west of the town, near Ardblair, are the remains of a building
which has some tradition connected with it. Newton Castle is a good
specimen of the seventeenth century mansion-house, with a fine prospect,
occupying an elevated site, and visible for a great distance. It was
rebuilt on the foundation of the old house, said to have been burnt down
by Oliver Cromwell. Many gentlemen were miraculously saved in a vault of
the old house while it was being burnt down. Superstition makes a ghost
haunt the apartments of the Castle. It is in the shape of a lady dressed
in green silk, who, as “the green lady,” has scared many more than
children from the ancient building.
“For still, at the
darksome hour past e’en,
When lurid phantoms fly,
A hapless lady clothed in green Illumes the earth and sky.”
Close beside the Manse
there is a circular mound, where, according to tradition, the Earls of
Gowrie and their predecessors held their regality courts. A quarter of a
mile to the west was the necessary concomitant, the “gallows bank,”
where the condemned criminals were immediately executed. From remains of
charred wood and ashes and unctuous-looking mould, found at the circular
mound, it is supposed that witches were formerly burned there. About
1832, a coin of the Roman Emperor Hadrian (in the beginning of the
second century) was found in the garden of the parish schoolmaster,
which is situated near one of the largo cairns before mentioned.
Historically there is
little to say about Blairgowrie. In 1G34 it was made a burgh of barony
by Charles I., in favour of the proprietor of the estate of Blairgowrie.
In 1809, by a charter from its feudal superior, it was made a free burgh
of barony, with power to elect a Bailie and four Councillors. At the
time that the Militia Act first came into operation, the lower ranks
there, in common with others, were so greatly discontented with the
balloting of the Justices (Macpherson of Blair and Ramsay or Banff),
that they confined these dignitaries in the inn, till a bond was signed
to exclude the men of Blair from being pressed into the army. On their
release, however, the Justices got the military to seize the
ringleaders, regardless of the quasi-bond. George Drummond, who was born
in Newton Castle, was the Provost of Edinburgh when the North Bridge,
the Royal Infirmary, and the Royal Exchange were projected.
Ecclesiastically we are
not in possession of many important notices. In 1170 William the Lion
granted the Marsh of Blair to the Abbey of Cupar. In 1201, at the Synod
of Perth, an agreement was entered into between the churches of Blair
and Cupar. King Alexander II. in 1235 exchanged for the Marsh of Blair
two and a half ploughgates of land in Meikle Blair. In the Taxatio of
1250 the church of 'Blair gave 24 merks to the Priory of St. Andrews.
King Robert the Bruce in 1309 confirmed to the Abbey of Cupar a charter
by Sir David Lindsay, bestowing upon it the lands of Blair, Under Cupar
there was a chapel of St. Mary at Caille (Cally). In 1473 the tacksman
of Cally church -lands had to be forester of all the woods of
Strathardle. In 1474 the Abbot of Cupar had a mansion at Campsie (in
Cargill); and in 1479 the tenants of the church-lands there had to
“cultivate the land of Blar and of the Forest within the walls as much
as they can, sowing annually sixty bolls of corn.” In 1508 “the hale
Blair abone the wod of Campsy is set,” and in 1517 “the quarter of Blare
is set.” Before the Reformation, Blairgowrie is said to have belonged to
the Abbey of Scone. In 1605 John Ross was minister, who, going to the
meeting of Assembly in Aberdeen, arrived after they had met and risen;
“yet he approved of their proceedings.” Ho was afterwards summoned
before the Privy Council and confined in the Castle of Stirling, but was
soon liberated. Many good stories are told of him. He was a very
athletic man, using force to compel his people to go to church. Failing
in this, he adopted the strange method of establishing a market at the
Kirk-gate every Sunday afternoon after divine service, when household
necessaries were sold. This plan proved more successful. However, young
men were in the practice of playing at shinty on Sunday between sermons;
and often he warned them of their bad conduct, but to no effect. One
Sunday, however, he appeared, and taking off his coat and placing it on
his staff’ which he had stuck into the ground, he solemnly exclaimed :—
“Stand ye there,
As minister o’Blair,
While I, John Ross,
Get a game at the ha’.”
Keenly then did he enter
into the contest, but, instead of striking the ball, he, under pretence
of being exceedingly blind in his aim, struck the shins of the youths,
till he sent them all limping home. There was no more desecration of the
Sabbath with this game. In 1689 Gilbert Blair was deprived of his office
by the Privy Council, for not reading the Proclamation of the Estates.
There are some curious
entries in the old Session Records, illustrative of the strict
discipline of those days. These go back to 1647, but from 1658 to 1702
there is a blank. In a very late harvest in 1648 three men were summoned
before the Session for shearing corn on the Sabbath, though after
sunset; and were made to do penance for such an awful sin. The ciders
were good financiers, for, in order to raise funds, they proclaimed in
the same year that “every taverne keeper, or seller of aile, qulio runs
aile in tyme of sermon, or ye whole day in ane excessive manner to any,
sail pay hereafter as much as ye drinkers, toties quoties, it sail be
found they are guiltie therein.” One seller of “aile,” being dealt with
for his absence from church, naively gave the excuse that “he had but
ane playd betwixt his wife and him, and that she had the use thereof
that day;” but it was of no avail, he was reproved and “ordained to keep
the kirk in tyme cumand, under ye paine of censure.” On August 16th,
1649, the records bear that “we are to mourne for the continuance and
increase of sinne and provanitie, especallie of the abominable sinne of
witchcraft.” On the 10th of October, 1652, intimation is given of a
collection “for the sadd condition of the toun of Glasgow, being
half-brunt.” Under the date of 12th December, 1653, “There was na
Sessione, in respect the elders were withdrawin in attending some of
Glencairne’s souldiers, who were ranging throu the paroch.” On the 12th
August, 1649, in the case of an unfortunate, who had appeared
twenty-four times before the Session in public penance for adultery, the
minister “aggravat his sinne and exhorted him to sorrow and griefe of
heart for the same, and continued him to give farther evidence of ye
truth of his repentance.” A remarkable case of charity is here recorded,
“Feb. 17, 1650—Given this day, to Sir Robert Mubray, sometyme laird of
Barnbougall, now become, through indigence, ane poor supplicant,
twentie-foure shillings.” The Sabbath following has this entry: —"The
Presbyterie Act anent brydalls, ordaining thair sould not be above eight
persons in ye syde, that thair sould be no debaucht pipars nor fiddlars,
nor promiscuous dancing, nor excessive drunkennesse, was lykeways
intimate out of ye pulpit.” And on the 19th July, 1650, it being
reported to the Session that a certain person had “most despytefullie
and devilishlie railed against ye Sessione, cursing minister and
elders,” the common practice of “nailing be ye lug” was changed for the
more honoured “put into ye jouggs, till the culprit obeyed and repented.
A very great change has
within the last fifty years come upon Blairgowrie. An insignificant
village of mean thatched houses has become a town with good streets,
good houses, and the stirring business of ten mills employing two
thousand hands. Half the land is now under cultivation. A railway is up
to its door. Three first-class hotels invite visitors. A weekly
newspaper, printed in it, gives it some social importance. Eight or nine
churches show some strong religious energy. Auction markets draw
excellent specimens of cattle. Banks are thriving. The old complaint of
ague, occasioned by the bad drainage, is now little known; though the
rheumatism, in the low rimy parts at times shows itself. Rents have very
much increased; the valued rental being now £26,378. The population has
in little more than a century increased from 1596 to 5000. Now it is a
grand start-point for the Royal drive to Braemar; and an excellent and
healthy resort for summer visitors from the sea coast. It is to be
feared that, as with all other country parishes, the morals of the
people have not improved with corresponding social and economic
improvements; but we must wait patiently till the waves of heathenism
and pessimism, now sweeping over our whole land, have departed and given
place to better times. |