"Grey Stirling, bulwark of the
north" – Strila, or Stryveling, signifying "Strife,"
from the contests of which it was the subject and the scene – bears,
as is well known, a striking resemblance in its main features to
Edinburgh; and, like it, is of very great antiquity as a fortress.
"Parent of monarchs,
nurse of kingly race,
The lofty palace, from its height, looks down
On pendant walls, that guard the lower town;
While royal title gives it noble grace.
Friendly to all, whatever be their name,
Inmate or foe, or real friend or feigned.
Danger to profit yields. How oft (of shame!)
Has noble blood her territory stained!
Hapless in this alone, to none she yields
The bliss of genial air and fertile fields."
The town is situated upon a hill, which,
gradually rising from the east, terminates abruptly in a steep rock of
concentric greenstone and columnar basalt, upon the extremity of which
the castle is built. There are abundant traces of "the great
ice-sheet" over all the rocks of this district. The castle rock on
the ridge to the north of the castle buildings shows such markings very
distinctly, the rock being ground into a series of parallel hollows,
having the sides in some places grooved and polished, evidently by ice
in some form acting from the north-west. To the geologist, this part of
the country is especially interesting from the varied phenomena
presented by the physical aspects of the strata, in which can be traced
clearly the combined action of fire and water at a former period of the
world’s history. To the unequal denudation, from carboniferous to
post-glacial times, of the two great classes of rocks thus formed under
igneous and aqueous conditions, we own those peculiar features in the
scenery of the district around Stirling which lend it such a charm, and
which are characteristic of the trappean tracts of central Scotland
where volcanic rocks prevail.
With regard to the castle, no certain
account can be given of its first erection. Boece affirms that Agricola
raised fortifications upon its rock. Nor is it improbable that the
Romans had a station here, for the necessary preparations in their
passing the Forth to invade Caledonia. Their military causeway runs
hither from the south; and hence to the north. We have already quoted a
Roman inscription, which, in Sir Robert Sibbald’s day, was upon a rock
near the castle, and intimates that the second legion held here their
daily and nightly watch. Stirling, or Snowdon, as it was formerly, and
more poetically called, according to some, is in the Greek, Ouandouara,
or, in the Latin form, the Vanduaria of Ptolemy; though that author
names Paisley as entitled to this distinction.
On the death of Kenneth II., in 855, his
brother Donald V. ascended the Scottish throne. Historians describe the
latter differently; some as valiant and wise, others as utterly wicked.
Early in his reign, the kingdom was invaded by two Northumbrian princes,
Osbrecht and Ella. Uniting their forces with the Cumbrian Britons, and a
number of Picts who upon their explusion from their native country had
taken refuge in England, they advanced to Jedburgh. Here Donald
encountered them; and, after an obstinate and bloody engagement,
obtained a complete victory. Pushing, however, his advantage no farther
than to make himself master of Berwick, he took up his station there in
supine security; safe, as he imagined, from an enemy he had so lately
vanquished. The Northumbrians, informed of his careless posture,
surprised him by a hasty march, dispersed his army and made himself a
prisoner. Marching north, they subdued all before them to the Forth and
Stirling. The Scots, without either king or army, sued for peace. They
obtained it on condition of paying a large sum for the king’s ransom,
and yielding up all their dominions south of the Forth to the
Northumbrians, and those south of the Clyde, with Dumbarton, to the
Cumbrians. The former, taking possession of the territories thus ceded
to them, rebuilt Stirling Castle, and planted it with a strong garrison.
They threw a stone bridge over the Forth; and, on the top, raised a
cross, with the following inscription: -
"Anglos a Scotis
separat crux ista remotis
Hie armis Bruti: Scoti stant hic cruce tuti" –
thus translated by Bellenden: -
"I am free marche, as
passengers may ken,
To Scottis, to Britonis, and to Inglismen."
A very extraordinary rendering indeed. It
is not even a parody.
Fordum takes no notice of this conquest,
nor of Donald’s captivity; though he mentions a defeat of the Picts by
that monarch. The ancient English historians, too, are silent on it; but
speak of two Northumbrian princes, Osbrecht and Ella, who both perished
in 866, in an attack upon the city of York, occupied by the Danes. The
whole story, as well as the inscription, wears much of a monkish garb.
Its authenticity, however, is, in some degree, confirmed by the arms of
the town of Stirling, which have a bridge, with a cross as aforesaid,
and the last line of the recently quoted distich as a motto around it.
We must not imagine that, in those times,
Stirling castle bore any resemblance to a structure, adapted, as the
present is, to the use of fire-arms. Its size and form probably
resembled those strongholds which, under the feudal constitution, the
English and Scottish barons used to erect upon their estates for
inhabitation; and which, in those barbarous ages, they found necessary
to fortify for their defence, not only against foreign invaders, but
their nearest neighbours. Such a Gothic structure is the Castrum
Strivelense in the arms of the burgh.
This fortress, after it had continued in
the possession of the Northumbrian Saxons about twenty years, was,
together with the whole country south of the Forth, restored to the
Scots, on condition of their assisting the Saxons against their
turbulent invaders the Danes.
In the arms of Stirling are two branches
of a tree, to represent the Nemus Strivelense, or "Forest of
Stirling," probably a wing of the Caledonian. Its situation and
boundaries are not known. Vestiges of a forest are still discernible for
several miles. Banks of natural timber still remain in the Castle Park,
at Murray’s Wood, and near Nether Bannockburn. Stumps of trees, with
much brushwood, are still to be seen in the adjacent fields.
When, near the close of the tenth
century, Kenneth III., was informed that the Danes had invaded his
dominions, he appointed Stirling castle the rendezvous of his army, and
marched thence to the battle of Luncarty, where he obtained a signed
victory over these rovers.
This castle is spoken of as a place of
great importance in the twelfth century. In 1174 William the Lion was
taken prisoner, in an unsuccessful expedition into England; and, after
having been detained a year in captivity, was released, on promising to
pay a large ransom, and, as a pledge, delivering into the hands of the
English the four principal fortresses of the kingdom – Stirling,
Edinburgh, Roxburgh, and Berwick. He promised, besides, to do homage for
his whole kingdom. This was the first great ascendant that England
obtained over Scotland; and indeed the most important transaction
between these kingdoms since the Norman Conquest. It occurred in the
reign of Henry II. His son and successor, Richard I., remitted what of
the ransom-money remained unpaid at his succession, restored the
fortresses, and renounced all claim to the superiority of Scotland.
The Scottish monarchs often held the
court and parliament in Stirling castle. It did not, however, become one
of their stated residences till the family of Stewart appeared. From
different princes of that line it received its present form. It was the
birth-place of James II., who often resided in it after he had ascended
the throne. Immediately after the murder of James I., the young king was
placed under the government of Sir Thomas Livington, who had the keeping
of the castle. The king, by the contrivance of the Chancellor Crichton,
was kept prisoner in Edinburgh. The queen mother resolved to have him
under the charge of Livingston; and, visiting her son, under pretext of
maternal affection, persuaded him to permit himself to be carried out in
a trunk, and put on board a vessel at Leith. They had arrived, ere
night, at Stirling castle. The chancellor, however, seized his majesty
while hunting in the woods near Stirling, and conducted him with much
courtesy to his former place of durance. The regent followed his young
charge, and held a conference with Crichton in St. Gile’s church, when
the Earl of Douglas acted as mediator, but so as to offend both.
Inviting him to an entertainment in the castle, these two officials, in
the presence of the young and terrified monarch, who employed tears and
entreaties, made Douglas and his brother be dragged by armed ruffians
from table to outer court, where they were instantly murdered. The royal
apartments were then in the north-west corner of the castle; and
latterly, in part, became the residence of the fort-major.
James III., contracting a peculiar
fondness for the castle, on account of its pleasant situation, made it
his principal residence, and shut himself in it so closely with his
favourites, that the nobility and barons were seldom admitted to any
intercourse with him. His mild and, according to the ideas of the age,
pious temper, did not coalesce with the turbulence and intrigues of his
nobles. He erected several new structures in it, besides repairing and
embellishing those that had fallen into decay. He built a hall, 120 feet
long, which in those days was deemed a noble and magnificent fabric.
James also instituted a college of secular priests in the castle, and
erected for them the Chapel-Royal, which was, however, demolished in
1594 by James VI., who, on the same spot, erected the present chapel.
The annexation of the rich temporalities of the Priory of Coldingham to
this building, by offending the Lords Home and Hailes, was a cause of
ruin to James III.
Thanks to
Jane Haines for sending this into us.
James V. was crowned here; and its chief
ornament, the palace, all of hewn stone, with much statuary work, was
begun by him in 1540, and finished twelve years later by his widow, Mary
of Guise. Its form is square, with a small court in the middle, where
the king’s lions are said to have been kept, and which still goes by
the name of the "Lion’s Den." The style of architecture is
somewhat singular. It is neither Grecian nor Gothic, but more after the
Lombardian, with emblematical figures standing on wreathed balustrade
pillars on pedestals, supported by grotesque characters under arches,
and in the pediments of the windows. The statues of James V. and
daughter also appear among the others, and, notwithstanding their quaint
execution, give a special interest to the edifice.
James VI., who also passed his boyhood
here, had for his tutor the famous historian, George Buchanan. And a
word more, personally, with respect to the accomplished musician and
poet – "The Gudeman of Ballengeich." What, then, could be
more a propos than a stanza from one of the gaberlunzie ballads that so
happily describe his roaming adventures in rustic disguise?
"He took a horn frae
his side,
And blew baith loud and shrill,
And four-and-twenty belted knights
Cam’ skelpin’ o’er the hill.
And he took out his little
knife,
Loot a’ his duddies fa’,
And he stood the brawest gentleman
That was amang them a’."
Buchanan of Auchmar tells a good story of
the whimsical monarch. The first proprietor of Arnprior of the name of
Buchanan, a place eleven miles from Stirling, in the parish of Kippen,
had requested of a carrier to have part of his load at a price; when he
was told that the articles were for the king. "Tell him," said
Buchanan, "if he is King of Scotland, I am King of Kippen and need
some of my royal brother’s provisions," compelling the carrier to
deliver part of the cargo. James, hearing the story, and relishing a
joke, resolved to wait on this neighbouring majesty of Kippen, and did
so one day with a small retinue. Demanding admittance at the palace of
Arnprior, he was refused by a tall fellow holding a battle-axe, who told
him there was no admission till his master had finished dinner.
"Tell your master," said James, "the Gudeman of
Ballengeich humbly requests an audience of the King of Kippen."
Buchanan, guessing the quality of his guest, received his Majesty with
the appropriate honours, and became so great a favourite, that he had to
leave to draw upon the carrier as often as he pleased, and was kindly
invited as "King of Kippen" to visit his brother sovereign at
Stirling. Another anecdote connected with Ballengeich is told of James
V. Being benighted, he entered a cottage in the moor near Alloa, and,
though unknown, was treated with all possible hospitality. When
departing next morning, he invited the Gudeman (i.e. landlord) to
Stirling castle, and bade him call for the Gudeman of Ballengeich.
Donaldson, the landlord, having availed himself of the invitation, and
doing as directed, gave great amusement to the court, and was, by the
King of Scotland, created King of the Moors. His descendants retained
the cottage, and a bit of the ground, situated on the estate of Alloa,
till lately; and each successive representative of his majesty was known
by the title to which he was the legitimate heir.
The old Parliament House, too, originally
a fine example of Saxon masonry, remains of the ancient fortress. On the
north of this upper square, we have also the armoury, formerly the
chapel built by James VI. for the baptism of his eldest son, Prince
Henry, in 1594. Its chief curiosities are a pulpit and communion table,
said to have been used by John Knox; the tilting lance of the whimsical
monarch; an old Lochaber axe, found on the field of Bannockburn; 500
pikes, prepared for the use of the peasantry at the time of Napoleon’s
expected invasion; a number of pikes used by the radical rioters at
Bonnymuir; nearly 200 sergeants’ halberds; and a timber crown, which,
richly gilded, surmounted carved models of the castles of Edinburgh,
Stirling, Dumbarton, and Blackness, that formed part of the interior
decorations at the baptism of Prince Henry – the most magnificent
piece of pageantry ever witnessed in Scotland.
Immediately after the birth by the queen,
Anna, Princess of Denmark, ambassadors were dispatched to Courts of
England, France, Denmark, the Low Countries, Brunswick, and Magdeburg,
with tidings of the happy event, and a request that each send a
representative to the baptism. A convention of the nobility and
principal burghs was called, under pretext of asking their advice in the
arrangement of the solemnity, but, in reality, to solicit money to
defray the expense. The convention, informed of the king’s design,
readily granted a hundred thousand pounds Scots, or eight thousand three
hundred and thirty-three pounds sterling. So large a sum gave James
fresh spirit, and encouraged him to begin the preparations. The mansion
where the prince had been born was pitched upon for the baptism. As the
chapel of James III., however, was deemed neither large nor elegant
enough, orders were given for its demolition, and the erection of
another on a grander scale on its site. Craftsmen were summoned from all
parts of the kingdom; and, that the work might be executed with the
greater dispatch, large pay was allowed; while the king acted as daily
overseer.
The dispatches to foreign courts had been
so well received, that ambassadors arrived from each. Preparations were,
meanwhile, progressing, and the courtly guests entertained in the most
sumptuous manner. Hunting, and other exercises of the field, or various
amusements in the palace, were the pastimes of the day; and the evening
was spent in balls, masks, and banquets. Tournaments, and running at the
ring, were practiced in the valley, which was surrounded with guards,
finely apparelled, to prevent the crowd from breaking in. A scaffold was
erected on one side of the valley, for the queen, her ladies, and the
foreign ambassadors. The performers, at their entrance, uniformly made a
low obeisance to this illustrious company.
The baptism was performed on the 30th
of August. It is easy to discern, throughout the whole, the features of
that vanity and pedantry which distinguished James VI. The new chapel
royal was hung with the richest tapestry, and every embellishment added,
tending to heighten the splendour of the occasion. The eastern part was
inclosed with a rail, which none was allowed to pass, except the king,
and the performers of the service.
At the north-east corner was placed a
chair of state for his Majesty; and on the right, at a small distance,
another chair finely ornamented. It had been designed for the French
ambassador, who had not yet arrived. Next was a seat covered with
crimson taffety, for the English ambassador extraordinary. On a desk
before him lay a red velvet cushion, and on either side stood a
gentleman-usher. Next sat Mr. Robert Bowes, the ordinary ambassador of
England, on whose desk lay a purple velvet cushion and cloth. And so on
went this part of the show.
In the midst of the rail stood a pulpit,
hung with cloth of gold. All the pavement inside the balustrade was
overlaid with fine tapestry. In a desk under the pulpit sat David
Cunningham, Bishop of Aberdeen, with David Lindsay, minister of Leith,
on one hand, and John Duncan, one of his Majesty’s ordinary chaplains,
on the other. Before them stood a table covered with yellow velvet.
The passage from the prince’s chamber,
which was in the palace, to the door of the chapel, was lined with a
hundred musqueteers, fifty upon either side, finely apparelled, and
mostly young burgesses of Edinburgh. When all the necessary
preliminaries were completed, his Majesty, attended by the nobility and
privy councilors, entered the chapel, and sat down in the chair of
state. The foreign ambassadors now repaired to the prince’s chamber,
where they found the royal infant laid upon a bed of state, embroidered
with the "Labours of Hercules." The ascent to a platform on
which the bed stood was by three steps. Covered with tapestry wrought
with gold. A large cloth of lawn covered both bed and steps, and reached
a good way over the floor. As soon as the ambassadors and other officers
had assembled, the Dowager Countess of Mar approached the bed, and,
making a low obeisance, took up the prince, and delivered him into the
hands of the Duke of Lennox, who immediately presented him to the
English ambassador, to be by him borne into the chapel. Upon a table in
the room stood the implements of the sacred service. These the master of
the ceremonies delivered to certain noblemen, to be carried before the
prince. The prince’s robe-royal, of purple velvet, richly set with
pearls, was delivered to Lennox, who put it upon the royal infant,
whilst the train was borne by the Lords Sinclair and Urquhart. They
adjourned to an outer chamber, where a canopy was supported with four
poles, and covered with crimson velvet fringed with gold. At length,
when everything had been regularly adjusted, the procession, at sound of
trumpet, set out in the following order: Lyon King-at-Arms, with the
other heralds in their best robes; the lords bearing the utensils –
Lord Seton a silver basin, Lord Livingston a towel, Lord Home a ducal
crown, richly set with diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and emeralds. Then
followed the canopy, borne by four barons, viz., Walter Scot of
Buccleuch, the Constable of Dundee, Sir Robert Ker of Cesford, and the
Laird of Traquair. Under the canopy walked the Earl of Sussex,
ambassador extraordinary of England, appointed to that special service,
carrying the prince in his arms, and assisted by the ordinary
ambassador, Mr. Bowes. Along with them was the Duke of Lennox. Around
the canopy were the ambassadors of Denmark, Magdeburg, and the States.
Last of all followed the Countess of Mar, Mrs. Bowes, the ladies of
honour, and the nurse.
At their entrance into the chapel, the
utensils were received by the master of ceremonies, who placed them upon
the table before the pulpit; and the noble bearers retired to their
seats. The canopy was set down before the pulpit, where the English
ambassador delivered the prince to Lennox, who immediately gave him to
the Lady Mar, and she in turn committed him into the hands of the nurse.
All the ambassadors retired to their respective places. Outside the rail
were placed long seats, covered with green, which were occupied by the
gentry of England, Scotland, Denmark, Germany, and Flanders.
As soon as all the company were seated,
Mr. Patrick Galloway, one of his Majesty’s ordinary chaplains, entered
the pulpit, and preached from Gen. xxi. 1, 2. When the sermon was
finished, the Bishop of Aberdeen rose, and discoursed on the sacrament
of baptism, in Latin as well as English, by way of compliment to the
Continental part of his audience. The provost and prebends of the chapel
sang the 21st Psalm. The king, leaving his seat, advanced
towards the pulpit. The ambassadors followed in order. The barons who
bore the canopy moved towards the pulpit; and the Duke of Lennox,
receiving the prince from the Lady Mar, delivered him to the English
ambassador, who held him in his arms during the performance of the
sacred act. The royal child was christened under the names of Frederick
Henry, no sooner pronounced, than thrice repeated aloud by the Lyon
King-at-Arms, and as often confirmed, with sound of trumpet, by the
inferior heralds.
When the action was over, the king,
ambassadors, and great officers returned to their seats. The English
ambassador, meanwhile, stepping aside, was waited on by two
gentlemen-grooms; one of whom, kneeling, presented a basin, while the
other, in the same humble attitude, poured water into it. The ambassador
washed his hands; and, having wiped them with a towel presented to him,
with equal reverence, by a third gentleman-groom, resumed his chair.
When all was composed, the Bishop of
Aberdeen, mounting the pulpit, pronounced, in Latin verse, a eulogy on
Prince Frederick Henry. He then addressed himself, in Latin prose, to
each of the ambassadors; beginning with "My Lord Sussex." He
gave a history of each potentate there diplomatically represented,
showed the relation which each crowned head bore to the royal family of
Scotland, and concluded by giving God thanks on the joyous occasion. It
now only remained to pronounce the benediction. This done, the Lord
King-at-Arms cried, "God save Frederick Henry, by the grace of God,
Prince of Scotland," and the inferior heralds, at an open window,
re-echoed the benison, with trumpet-sound.
The tables had, meanwhile, been covered
in the Parliament House; and, at eight, their majesties and the
ambassadors sat down to a sumptuous banquet. When the first course had
been removed, the company were surprised by the spectacle of a Moor,
having round his neck, for traces, massive chains of gold, and drawing a
triumphal car, to the sound of trumpets and hautboys. The machine had
been so artfully contrived as to appear to be moved by the Moor
unassisted. It was at first designed that a lion should draw it; but,
lest the quadruped should alarm the ladies, or, startled by the lamps
and torches, commit havoc without distinction of sex, it was deemed
preferable that the work should be done by the biped.
The chariot bore a table richly covered
with fruits, and confectionery, and attended by six damsels, three of
whom were clothed in argentine satin, three in crimson satin, and all of
them glittering with gold and silver. Each wore on the head a garland;
and the hair, which flowed without confinement, was bedecked with
feathers, pearls, and jewels. In front stood CERES, holding a sickle in
one hand, and a bunch of corn in the other, with this inscription upon
her side, FUNDENT UBERES OMNIA CAMPI. Over against CERES stood
FOECUNDITAS, holding some bunches of poppies, designed to represent
fruitfulness, with this design upon one side, FELIX PROLES DIVUM, and
upon the other, CRESCANT IN MILLE. Next, on the other side, was placed
FIDES, holding a basin, in which were two hands joined, with this
sentence, BONI ALUMNA CONJUGII. Over against FIDES stood CONCORDIA, in
whose left hand was a golden tassel, and in her right the Horn of
Plenty, with this motto, PLENO BEANT TE NUMINA SINU. The next place was
occupied by LIBERALITY, who held in her right hand two crowns, and in
her left as many sceptres, with the motto, ME COMITE, PLURA DABIS QUAM
ACCIPIES. The last was PERSEVERANCE, having in her hand a staff, and
upon her left shoulder an anchor, with the scroll, NEC DUBIAE RES
MUTABUNT NEC SECUNDAE. The dessert was delivered, in silence, by the
damsels, to the Earls, Lords, and Barons, as Sewers.
Another spectacle, equally uncommon at
feasts, entered the hall; a boat placed upon wheels, and moving by
invisible springs. Her length of keep was eighteen feet, and breadth of
deck eight. The highest flag (which was lowered upon her passing through
the door of the hall) was forty feet, from the solid work on which she
moved. The masts were red, the tackling and cordage silk of the same
colour, and the pulleys gold. Her ordnance consisted of thirty-six brass
pieces, elegantly mounted. The sails were of white taffety, and the
anchors tipped with silver. In the fore-sail was a compass, with this
device, QUASCUNQUE PER UNDAS. On the main-sail were painted the joint
arms of Scotland and Denmark, and this inscription common to both, EN
QUAE DIVISA BEATOS EFFICIUNT, COLLECTA TENES. All the sails, flags, and
streamers were embroidered with gold and jewels. The mariners were six,
clad in variegated Spanish taffety. The pilot, arrayed in cloth of gold,
moved the machine at will. Fourteen musicians, apparelled in taffety,
were on board. There, too, was ARION with his harp. Upon the fore-castle
stood NEPTUNE, clad in Indian silk, embroidered with silver, holding a
trident, and wearing a crown inscribed JUNXI ATQUE REDUXI. Next stood
THETIS, with her mace, and this device, NUNQUAM ABERO, ET TUTUM SEMPER
TE LITTORE SISTAM. At her hand stood TRITON with his shell, and the
scroll, VELIS, VOTIS, VENTIS. Around the vessel were three SYRENS, who,
accommodating their gestures to the music, repeated, "UNUS ERIS
NOBIS CANTANDUS SEMPER IN ORBE." The vessel was decked with pearls,
corals, shells, and other marine productions. At sound of trumpet, she
entered the hall; and, at the blast of TRITON’S shell, and the pilot’s
whistle, made sail, discharging her ordnance, till she had reached the
table. The Sewers received the cargo, being sweetmeats in crystal
glasses, curiously painted with gold and azure, and made up in the shape
of various fishes. While the vessel was unloading, ARION, sitting upon
the prow, cut in form of the fabled dolphin, struck the harp; then
followed hautboys, violins, and flutes; and, last of all, a general
concert. When the banquet ended, thanks were given, and the 138th
Psalm sung in seven parts by fourteen voices. Then, at the sound of
TRITON’S shell, and the pilot’s whistle, the vessel weighed anchor,
and made sail, till she had got outside the hall.
But to return to the castle proper. A
strong battery, with a tire of guns, pointing to the bridge over the
Forth, was erected during the regency of Mary of Lorrain. It is called
the French battery, probably from having been constructed by French
engineers. The last addition to the fortifications was made under Queen
Anne. They had formerly reached no farther than the old gate, where the
flag-staff now stands. In that reign they were considerably enlarged
towards the town; and bomb-proof barracks, with other conveniences for a
siege, were erected. From the unfinished state in which some parts have
been left, it would seem as if the whole plan had not been executed.
South-west of the castle lies what is
called the King’s Park, where the court hunted deer. It extends to the
south side of the late race-ground, and at the east end lay the royal
gardens. The wall is still to be seen running along the base of the
basaltic columns which here front the south and west. It is not yet a
century since it was first traversed by a public road, the old Dumbarton
road having hitherto gone by Cambusbarron. This field, together with
Gowling, or Gowlan, Hill, and other parcels of ground around the
garrison, formed, at one time, a small jurisdiction called the
Constabulary of the Castle; but they now belong to the burgh.
In the gardens is a mound of earth, in
form of a table, known as "The Knot," where, according to
tradition, the court sometimes held fetes champetres. Barbour, in his
account of the battle of Bannockburn, makes mention of the same, which
was then at the foot of the castle. He says, that, when Edward of
England was told by Mowbray, the governor, that he could not expect
safety by being admitted into the fortress, "he took the way
beneath the castle by the round table." It is, undoubtedly, of
great antiquity, and must have been in that place long before the
gardens were formed. Here, probably, the pastime, called "The
Knights of the Round Table," was enjoyed, a sport of which several
of the Scottish monarchs, particularly James IV., are said to have been
fond. Around the gardens, in Mr. Nimmo’s day, were the vestiges of a
canal, on which the royal family and court aired in barges; but a public
road from north to south now traverses the Park here.
In the Castle-hill is a hollow, called
"The Valley," comprehending about an acre, and having the
appearance of an artificial work for tournaments, with other feats of
chivalry. Here, the first historical flying experiment was made in
Scotland, by an Italian friar, whom James IV. had made Abbot of Tungland.
The man, from his presumed scientific attainments, and supposed success
in alchemy, was a great favourite of the king’s. Imagining that he had
discovered a method of flying through the air, he appointed a day for an
aerial ascension, and invited the king and his court to witness the
feat. At the appointed time, the Italian, carrying an enormous pair of
wings, ascended one of the battlements of the castle, and, spreading out
his plumes, vaulted into the air. Unfortunately for the abbot’s
reputation, the experiment was a complete failure. Amid the laughter and
derision of the whole assembly, the would-be aeronaut came tumbling
headlong down; and, although he luckily saved his neck, his thigh-bone
was broken. Of course the poor experimentalist had an excuse for his
non-success. It was to be attributed, he asserted, to the fact that his
wings included some feathers from common dung-hill fowls, instead of
having been all from eagles and other noble birds. Close to this valley
on the south, is a small pyramidal rock, called "The Ladies’
Hill," where the fair ones of the court took their station to
witness these "feats."
Opposite the castle, northwards, lies
Gowlan Hill, on the extremity of which, near the bridge, is a small
mound, known by the name of "Hurly Hawkie," and so called from
the childish amusement of using the skeleton of a cow’s head, for a
sliding stool on the declivity. Hawkie is a sort of generic term for a
cow in Scotland, and Lindsay’s "Hurly Backit" seems to refer
to the same pastime. On this mound, Duncan, the aged Earl of Lennox, and
his son-in-law, Murdac, Duke of Albany, lately regent, were, with
Alexander, a younger son of the regent’s by Duncan’s daughter
Isabella, beheaded on the 25th May, 1425. Walter, the eldest
son, had met the same fate here on the preceding day. The same hill,
too, was the scene of the execution of Sir Robert Graham, and several
associates, for the assassination of James I. Mr. Nimmo remarks that no
known history specifies the crime of the two former nobles, and sons of
the regent. But we may explain that an act had been passed in the first
parliament after James’s return from captivity, ordering the sheriffs
to enquire what lands had belonged to the crown during the three
preceding reigns, and empowering the king to summon the holders to show
their charters. There had, probably, been some demur, rousing James to
vigorous measures. He seems to have selected the ringleaders for an
example. He ordered into custody Walter Stewart, eldest son of the late
regent, Malcolm Fleming of Cumbernauld, and Thomas Boyd of Kilmarnock;
but the latter two were soon after released. He next laid hold of
Duncan, the aged Earl of Lennox, and Sir Robert Graham, the future
regicide. At a parliament in Perth, he arrested on the 12th
of March, 1424-5, Murdac, Duke of Albany, Alexander, his second son,
with several others, all of great ancestry and importance. His view
probably in seizing so many was, to prevent an insurrection which, as
matters stood, was fruitlessly attempted by Murdac’s youngest son
James. The monarch, adjourning his parliament to Stirling in May, and,
presiding in person, formed a jury of twenty-one members. Among them
were Walter Stewart Earl of Atholl, and the Earls of Douglas, Angus, and
March, all of whom, except Atholl, had been arrested with Albany. There
were also three lesser barons who had been similarly seized. As,
however, these did not constitute the majority, they could not turn the
scale in favour of the accused. What the accusation was, as it is not
recorded, we are left to conjecture. The dilapidations of the crown
lands implied in the act of parliament recently adverted to, may perhaps
sufficiently account for this transaction.
The lordship and castle of Stirling were
latterly part of the dowry of the Scottish Queens. A small peninsula
betwixt the bridge of Stirling and the Abbey of Cambuskenneth, still
goes by the name of Queen’s Haugh, having been the place, where,
according to tradition, the queen’s cows usually grazed. The charter
to a small parcel of ground, within the Constabulary, mentions its
having been granted to the first possessor, for the service of taking
care of the queen’s poultry and washing-tubs.
Sir Robert Erskine was appointed governor
of the castle by King David Bruce, in 1360; and for the sustenance of
the garrison, had a grant of twelve chalders of oats, and fourteen
chalders of wheat, with two hundred merks, which were yearly payable to
the crown, out of the feus of Bothkennar. He likewise obtained a grant
of all the feus and revenues in Stirlingshire, belonging to the crown,
with the wardships, escheats, and other emoluments annexed to them. The
office continued in that family until the forfeiture of the Earl of Mar
in 1715.
Being a key to the northern parts of
Scotland, the possession of Stirling was esteemed important. Hence the
sieges and revolutions it has undergone have afforded much matter for
history. In 1296, Edward I., enraged at Baliol’s renunciation of his
allegiance, marched into Scotland with a great army, and, torrent-like,
carried all before him. The strongest fortresses yielded, and Stirling,
deserted by its garrison, made no stand. After the battle of Stirling,
in 1297, Surrey, being forced to retreat, left the castle under Sir
Marmaduke de Twenge, who was obliged instantly to evacuate it before Sir
William Wallace. After the battle of Falkirk, Wallace demolished it.
Hollingshed says, softly, that "Wallace, after the battle, went,
with sundry of his friends, into the castle at Strivelyne." It was
repaired by Edward II.; but was, the following year, recovered by the
Scots. In 1300, the English usurper laid siege to it; when Sir William
Oliphant defended it three months, but, at length, capitulated. It was
held by the English till 1303; when the Scottish leaders, having
compelled a surrender, restored Oliphant to the command. Edward entered
Scotland on the 10th of May, and, having penetrated into the
North as far as Kinloss, returned on the 6th of November to
the Abbey of Dumfermline. Having subsequently dispersed any forces which
the Scots could bring into the field, he repaired, early in March, to
St. Andrews; where, assembling a great council of English and Scottish
barons, he procured the outlawry of Sir William Wallace, Simon Frazer,
and the garrison of Stirling castle. Although gunpowder was yet unknown,
he despoiled the cathedral of its leaden roof for the siege of the only
fortress in Scotland which defied his power. During three months, every
expedient was employed by Edward, in person; and often exposing himself,
to reduce it. At length he succeeded by storm. He sent the brave
garrison, whose offer of capitulation he had refused, to different jails
in England; and the governor to the Tower of London. Wallace still
remained, unsullied in fame, and unconquered in spirit; but, having been
arrested soon after, and carried to London in fetters, he was condemned
for high treason, and suffered death on the 23rd August,
1305. The English now held Stirling castle for ten years, till the
battle of Bannockburn, which was fought to relieve it, but in vain. In
1333, it yielded to Edward Baliol. In 1336, after being repaired by
Edward III., it was besieged by Sir William Douglas and Sir Andrew
Moray, the friends of David Bruce; when Edward relieved it in person.
Sir Robert Keith Marischal, one of the chief heroes of Bannockburn, was
killed on this occasion. The castle was, next year, blockaded by the
same party, and again relieved by Edward. It was captured by Bruce’s
friends in 1339.
In the beginning of 1746, the Highlanders
raised a battery of two 16-pounders, two 8-pounders, and three
3-pounders, between the church and Mar’s building, but were dislodged
by the artillery of the garrison, under General Blackney. On the 27th
of January, they erected a battery of three pieces on Gowlan Hill, and
another of similar power on Lady’s Hill; and opened both on the 29th.
Many of the besiegers fell by the fire of the castle. It must, however,
have surrendered for want of provisions, but for the Duke of Cumberland’s
approach, and the consequent retreat of the Highland army. A small
history of Stirling, which appeared in 1794, mentions an anecdote of
Charles Edward, the more worthy of credit that the anonymous author is
obviously no Jacobite. The Highlanders had to pass along St. Mary’s
Wynd in going to and from Gowlan Hill, and, while passing an opening,
were exposed to the cannon of the castle, purposely pointed. The more
cowardly crept hurriedly on all-fours, while the braver marched
deliberately and erect. "The town’s people remarked," says
the history referred to, "that among the latter was the young
Prince Charles."
Several important transactions, civil and
sacred, have, at different times, taken place in Stirling castle. Some
laws of Alexander II. annexed to the Regiam Majestatem, were enacted
within it, particularly that, so friendly to liberty, which established
trials by jury. William the Lion held a parliament in the castle, for
the payment of his ransom. Here William died in 1212. Several
parliaments and conventions met during the short reign of John Baliol.
Here, also, the epistle is dated which, with the advice of the States,
he wrote to the King of France in 1295, proposing a marriage between a
princess of France and young Baliol.
It was the place of both the birth and
coronation of James V. His daughter, too, was crowned in the castle in
1543, when scarce nine months old. Arran, the regent, carried the crown
on that occasion, and Lennox the sceptre. A numerous assembly of the
States, then present, appointed the fortress to be the royal minor’s
residence, and committed the alternate keeping of her person, and
superintendence of her education, to the Lords Graham, Lindsay, Erskine,
and Livingston.
The only son of Darnley and Queen Mary
was born on the 19th of June, 1566, in Edinburgh castle, but
soon after conveyed to Stirling, where, on the 15th of
December, he was baptized with much solemnity. Great preparations were
made for the occasion. Couriers were dispatched to the courts of
England, France, and Savoy; and ambassadors arrived from each, to
countenance the assembly. A convention of the states granted a thousand
pounds sterling to defray the expense. The prince was held up at the
font by the Countess of Argyll, in name of, and by commission from the
Queen of England. He was baptized by the archbishop, and named James
Charles. The whole service was Romish, with the exception of the
spittle. Neither Bedford, nor any of the Scottish Protestant nobility
entered the chapel. They stood outside the door.
The king was not present at his son’s
baptism. Buchanan assigns a ridiculous reason – that the tailors and
embroiderers had neglected to provide him in proper clothes. Others,
with more probability, represent him as having learned that Bedford and
his retinue had received express orders from Elizabeth not to address
him by the title of king. As it was inconsistent with his honour to be
denied it in his own court, and, at the same time, imprudent to quarrel
with the Queen of England, he had, possibly, judged it expedient not to
appear.
After service, the queen, with the
English and French ambassadors, sat down to an elegant repast, in the
Parliament House. The second course was brought in a wheeled machine,
accompanied by a musical band. At the suggestion of a Frenchman, a
number of men dressed as satyrs, with long tails, and whips, preceded
the vehicle. Some Englishmen, conceiving a personal insult, raised a
noise; and it was with much difficulty that the queen could appease the
uproar. Bedford alone of his countrymen treated the infantine pageant
with silent contempt.
The ambassadors, during their stay, were
entertained with frequent banquets, and various amusements. Bedford
never attended worship in the chapel, but went with the Protestant lords
to the town-church. At his departure, he was presented by the queen with
a chain of diamonds, valued at 2000 crowns. His retinue also were
honoured with presents.
Outside the castle, at the head of Broad
Street, are the remains of a conspicuous building, which, in its style
of architecture, strikingly resembles the castle of St. Andrews. It is
popularly known as "Mar’s Work," from the name of the
founder, John, Earl of Mar, Lord Erskine, Regent of Scotland, who
erected it in 1570. The front wall of the house, however, is the only
portion that remains. Above the main entrance door, the full royal
armorial bearings of Scotland are still entire; and on the two flanking
towers on either side of the principal entrance, are the respective
armorial bearings of John, Earl of Mar, and of his Countess, Annabella
Murray, of Tulliebardine. On the eastern door, there is the following
quaint inscription, which many will consider of very general
application: -
"The moir I stand in
oppin licht,
My faultis moir subject ar to sicht."
Another appeals, on
this or on other grounds, for a lenient judgment: -
"I pray al luikaris on this
luging,
With gentle e to give their juging."
Looking over the castle
ramparts – and this, after all, is the great attention – we have
before us one of the finest and most stirring views in all Scotland. We
see stretching away to the west the rich strath of Menteith, bounded on
the one hand by the Fintry hills, and on the other by the braes of
Aberfoyle, with the stately Highland mountains rising beyond. In the
foreground, is the wooded cone of Craigforth. On the east we have the
Ochils and Abbey Craig, with its Wallace Monument; and near at hand, we
look down on the beautiful windings, or "links," of the Forth.
But the historical footprints of the landscape are of still deeper
interest. Within a radius of a few miles no less than six great battles
were fought within historic times – Stirling Bridge, 1297; Falkirk,
1298; Bannockburn, 1314; Sauchieburn, or Field of Stirling, 1488; Kilsyth,
1645; and Falkirk, 1746. Probably in no area of so small extent throughout
the world have so many momentous conflicts taken place. And there can be
little doubt that the physical features of the district have had a
powerful influence in this phase of our human history. |