The general configuration of the country in
Stirlingshire, and the causes which, in bygone ages, may have operated
in moulding the land into its present shape, give rise to some very
interesting thoughts and speculations. We shall briefly advert to a few
of these, which will readily be understood by any one acquainted with
the country. Looking at the surrounding coal stratification, and taking
it to have been deposited in a more or less horizontal position, we see
that great dislocations and changes of level must have been produced by
the eruption into it of enormous masses of trap rock, or whinstone. That
the trap rock was not, in the first instance, thrown up, and the coal
strata afterwards deposited, is evident from the fact that the coal,
where it comes in contact with the rock, is found to be singed. And that
the condition of the trap when erupted was really molten, is beautifully
shown by the strata in the grounds at Castlecary. Connected with the
sweet cascade in the "Fairy Dell" there, it is interesting to
see the trap, over which the water falls, with the strata on each side
running towards it, and likewise the curious alteration of angle which
takes place as these strata come close to the rock. The late Mr. Charles
Maclaren, of Edinburgh, first suggested, what is, no doubt, the true
explanation of this phenomenon, viz. That the rock, in cooling,
contracted, and hence allowed the strata in contact with it to fall in.
Subsequent to the irruption of the trap
into the coal measures, we have many evidences in the Falkirk district
of the existence of what is called by geologists the drift, or
boulder-clay flood, and this appears to have been one of the chief
operative agents in giving the land which has been left us its present
configuration. The reality of such a flood was clearly shown by Sir
James Hall, and no one can doubt its existence and power who will look
at the well-known phenomenon the "Crag-and-tail," so well
seen at the castles of Stirling, Edinburgh, and other places, where the
solid rock has protected the softer stratifications lying on the
south-east side. The natural inference from this is, that the flood set
in with its chief force from the north-west, and keeping this in view,
let us consider what would be its effect upon the adjacent country when
the land, as it evidently then did, stood at a much lower level than at
present; and to do this the more effectually let a position be taken on
the high ground on Cannel Moss, for example, to the south of
Falkirk, which is now about 612 feet above the level of the sea. But
before commencing this survey, it may be well to notice how peculiarly,
even now, this portion of Scotland is situated. Take, for instance, the
neck of country through which the Forth and Clyde Canal runs, and we
shall find that, its highest point is under 150 feet above our present
sea level. If a canal were therefore dug, only 20 fathoms deep, in the
same line, we should have a direct communication between the Atlantic
Ocean and the German Sea. The extraordinary effects that were produced
by this great flood must force themselves upon the mind of any one who
will look at the huge rolled boulders that are exposed in almost every
field to the south of Falkirk, or have been excavated in the
neighbourhood, and these generally from fragments of rock not otherwise
found in the district. In the railway cutting between Laurieston and
Redding, some large boulders of grey granite were found, portions of
which were afterwards converted into elegant curling stones. At the same
place, or at Brightons quarry, above the sandstone may be seen
multitudes of boulders, several many tons in weight, embodied in the
stiff clay, or "till" as it is sometimes called.
From the elevated position we are
supposed to occupy, let us now look towards the west and north-west
the directions from which the flood has come. We perceive at once that
there are two great gullies, or valleys, through which this flood must
have chiefly set the one between the Denny hills and other high
grounds on the south, and the Ochils on the north, with the trap rock of
Stirling castle in the centre; and the other between the Denny hills on
the north, and the high ground west from Cannel Moss on the south. These
two great currents would naturally meet a few miles to the east of
Falkirk, and the more northerly one seems to have struck with great
force the land which now forms Boness Bay, and probably was the chief
agent in scooping it out. The south current has, apparently, been less
intense, most likely from the protection afforded by the Denny hills;
but even here we shall find that its effects have been very decided,
both upon the strata carried away and those which have been left.
Directing our view still further north, we see that it was in all
likelihood the same agent which scooped out what must, at one time, have
been a bay at the Bridge of Allan; for here, also, the current, no
doubt, flowed with great force, striving to get an exit through the
Stirling valley.
Generally speaking, it is found that when
the currents have been strongest, there the denudation of the strata has
been greatest, and a knowledge of this fact might be advantageous to
landlords and coal proprietors in their searches for the different kinds
of minerals. The survey already taken will show this pretty accurately,
for at Bridge of Allan the most exposed of the localities mentioned
all the upper portions of the stratification have been swept away,
and consequently we find not the coal measures of the Falkirk district,
but the old red sandstone. At Boness, on which the chief force of the
north current seems to have been reflected, only the lowest portion of
the coal deposit is formed; while at Bannockburn appears the coarse
sandstone which underlies the Shieldhill coal-field. On the south side
of the Denny Hills, and between the two currents at Kinnaird and
Grangemouth, we find some of the higher of the Shieldhill coal strata.
At Bonnyside again, which was specially exposed to the influence of the
south and less powerful current, all the upper Shieldhill minerals have
been removed, and those above the lower Bannockburn series are alone
left; while from Glenfuir eastwards only the lower and inferior series
of the Shieldhill minerals have been, or are ever likely to be, found.
In fact, from the elevated position occupied, it seems to us a simple
matter to say generally where coal ought to be got, and where it need
scarcely be looked for the important consideration being as to
whether it was protected or otherwise from the operation of the flood.
Depth beneath the sea bottom, elevation above the sea level, and the
shelter afforded by some solid mass of rock, seem to have been the main
circumstances by which this valuable mineral was locally preserved.
Naturally, as the land continued to rise,
a period arrived when the communication we have alluded to between the
two seas became more and more shallow, and at last closed altogether.
The impress left on the surface of the land by the changes which hence
followed, is both marked and curious. Above the level previously
indicated we have a stiff boulder clay the former sea-bottom of a
pent-up current similar probably to our own Pentland Firth. Below this
level we find the natural products of a comparatively quiet sea
gravel, sand, and soft clay. When the sea had become shallow, but with
the current still setting from the west through the Falkirk valley, the
gravel might possibly preponderate; and this may have some connection
with the great deposit of gravel known as the Redding Ridge, which
extends from Laurieston on towards Linlithgow bridge, the causes leading
to the formation of which, in this and other localities, are still
matters of conjecture with scientific men. However, this deposit may
have been formed, when once brought into existence, and raised above the
sea level, it must have given rise to a somewhat extensive loch, or
series of lochs, on its south side. One of the passages by which the
water has escaped is well seen a short distance to the east of Polmont
station; and through this gap the Gilston burn, from the upper grounds
to the south, now takes its course.
After the entire stoppage of the current
through the southern valley, a quiet, sheltered sea must have existed,
into which the various streams but especially the Carron, whose
embouchure would then be above Denny began and continued to pour
down the debris of the high grounds which they drained. This process, it
is clear, had lasted until a considerable part of the valley left by the
former current had been filled up with such fine sand, gravel, and clay,
as it at present contains; but still not in its present form, for as the
land continued to rise, another agent came into operation which has had
much to do in giving character and variety to the picturesque portion of
country lying between Falkirk and Denny. As the potter with his handful
of clay, and the turner with his rude piece of wood, bring out beautiful
forms by a few apparently simple touches; so here nature, working with
the sharp cutting edge of the Carron, has shapen this uniform sandy
deposit into the lovely valleys lying along the course of the river, and
has given us the exquisite rural scenery of Dorrator, Larbert, and
Dunipace.
But what of the ancient sea-beaches which
are thought to be so well seen on the course of the Carron? At Lock No.
2, on the Forth and Clyde Canal, and at Carron, we have well marked the
20 feet beach, upon the top of which stands Mungal Mill, as do also
parts of Glasgow and Dundee. The same beach is finely seen at the foot
of the Red Brae; and from this situation, looking towards Dorrator, may
be had an excellent view of the 20, 40, and 53 feet beaches rising in
succession above each other, and thus constituting the fine terraces
which have long given a character to this part of the Falkirk
neighbourhood.
The erosions of the Carron are best
observed from the road between Larbert and Dunipace, in the direction of
Carmuirs. In fact, the mounds at Dunipace are but evidences of the same
eroding action, being composed of stratified sand, part of the original
uniform deposit. The river, as we see, formed a passage for itself at
Larbert church, and then appears to have been reflected southwards,
cutting out at the Red Brae what is said to have been the site of the
Roman port of ancient Camelon. Along a higher portion of the deposit,
and between the two valleys, runs the Stirlingshire Midland Railway, and
an inspection of the ground shows that had the eroding action continued
much longer, this ridge would have disappeared, and the two valleys
would have been laid into one.
A short time ago, an ancient river
channel buried under drift, extending from Kilsyth to Grangemouth, was
discovered through means of borings for minerals. Journals of these
operations were collected for the purpose of ascertaining the depth and
character of the surface deposits of the country; and it was while
examining the same that the incidental discovery was made of a deep
pre-glacial, or perhaps inter-glacial, trough or hollow, extending from
the Clyde above Bowling, by Kilsyth, to the Forth, near Grangemouth. It
is clear that this hollow was due purely to denudation, as the strata
which it intersects was found to be intact and unbroken beneath
consequently cut out of the solid rock. It was at first supposed that
the denuding agent might be the sea; but be it observed, that however
effectually a sea-current might deepen and widen this trough where it
was narrowest, or shallowest that is, in the tract between Kilsyth
and Castlecary it could not have hollowed it out at either end, as
these parts must have been, in that case, sunk about 410 feet below sea
level, and, consequently far beneath the eroding action of the current.
Moreover, it is quite contrary to the ordinary action of sea currents
that they should cut out in the comparatively flat bottom they flow over
a long channel, the sides of which are everywhere steep, and in some
places perpendicular, and even overhanging. For these and other reasons,
it may be concluded that this hollow had been cut out by running water
in the form of rivers, when the land stood higher than now. These
rivers, starting from the present watershed of the district near Kilsyth,
would run, the one westward, flowing along the valley of the Kelvin,
into the Clyde, near Bowling; and the other eastward, along the present
course of the Bonny Water, till it entered the Firth of Forth. The
geological state of this ancient river channel is shown by the deepest
bore at Grangemouth to be either just before, or shortly after the
beginning of the glacial epoch, which conclusion is confirmed by the
deepest bore in the western portion of the hollow. The chief geological
value of this discovery consists in the evidence it affords, that at the
time when water flowed down this ancient river channel into the sea, the
land must have stood nearly 300 feet higher than at present. The surface
of the land at Grangemouth is only 12 feet above the level of the sea;
and as the bottom of this old river channel is 273 feet below the
surface, it is evident that the land must have stood about 260 feet
higher than now. It is satisfactory thus to find on land a confirmation
of what has long been inferred from the mammalian and other remains
found in the German Ocean, the English Channel, and other parts, that at
a very recent period our island must have stood several hundred feet
higher than at present, and formed part of the great eastern continent,
which then included in its area the present isolated lands of Great
Britain and Ireland.
Several districts of the county offer
happy hunting ground for the geologist. Here and there many rare
specimens of minerals may be found. We make a running survey, starting
from the west. The mountains of Buchanan parish, like the rest of the
Grampian range, belong to the primary formation. Roof-slate and lime
frequently occur, but schistus is the chief mineral. The base of the
Killearn district is the old red sandstone. In the rising ground a
variety of strata is exposed to view by the action of the mountain
streams, such as clay, lime, and freestone. In the trap formation, near
the south end of the parish, there is a singular chasm called the Wanzie.
A transverse section of a hill, running east and west, seems to have
slipped off; probably from the partial decay of the subjacent sandstone
leaving it without support. The chasm is 346 feet in length, 10 feet in
greatest width, and 30 feet in present depth. Attempts have frequently
been made to find coal in this neighbourhood. That they have always been
unsuccessful is what should be expected from the mineralogy of the
district. Coal is never found where the old red sandstone forms the
base. Fintry affords a great variety of minerals. Coal, in small
seams, is found in many places; and granite occurs in detached
fragments. There are also whinstone, freestone, redstone, jasper, and
fine specimens of zeolite. The rocks, which belong to the trap
formation, are numerous, and lie in a position very similar to those of
Stirling castle, Craigforth, and others in that locality. The rocks
of the Lennox hills are composed chiefly of trap, or whinstone. In the
gently sloping lands, between the hills and the carse, strata of red and
white sandstone are everywhere found. The Ochils consist of trap.
The beds are of various thickness, nearly vertical, having their dip to
the south. The veins, with a few exceptions, run in a northerly
direction. The amygdaloid rock is abundant, with agates and calcareous
spar. Along the face of the hills, and partially to the westward, is a
thick bed of conglomerate rock, or breccia, having a dark brown coloured
arenaceous base, in which are embedded fragments of trap rock, chiefly
angular. The greenstone, of which the Abbey Craig is for the most part
composed, is of felspar and horn-blende, and when broken presents a
rough crystallized appearance. In Baldernock the minerals are coal,
lime, ironstone of various kinds, fireclay, pyrites, and alum-ore. Coal
and lime have been wrought here for more than 200 years. - The Campsie
Fells consist principally of large tubular masses of trap. The minerals
of the district also include those of the coal formation coal, with
the usual alternating rocks of freestone, limestone, argillaceous
ironstone, aluminous clay, slate, &c., with beds of fossil shells.
In the Kirkton glen there is a very fine section of a dyke of compact
felspar, about 20 feet in height and 5 feet in breadth, elevating the
strata of limestone, slate-clay, and ironstone which bear upon the dyke,
and dip on either side of it at a considerable angle. The greater
part of Kilsyth parish is a coal-field, but the mineral is not of so
much value as might be anticipated from the broken nature of the strata
by dykes and hitches. The principal dyke is known to run into the river
Forth, near Airth, and commences here at Tomphin. It varies both in
material and thickness. At some places it is 30 feet thick, at others
double that number of yards. In one part it consists of the hardest
basalts; at another of the softest blaes; and again, it appears as a
mass of freestone debris, or whinstone interspersed with balls. There
are also large ironstone fields at the two baronies and Banton; while
limestone is found at Riskend. At Denny the rocks are whinstone and
freestone; but both coal and ironstone mines are wrought in the parish.
The whole of the easter part of Larbert parish is well stored with
coal. Five seams have been discovered, and more or less wrought. The
lowest of these dips out on the wester part of the Kinnaird and
Carronhall estates. The dip is usually to the north-east, and the
coalfield is intersected by several dykes. A fine freestone was formerly
obtained at Carronhall, situated considerably above the highest seam of
coal. This quarry, however, has been filled up. All the rocks in the
parish of Airth are of the coal formation, and form a part of the great
coalfield of Scotland. The line of dip varies. Next to the Forth it is
southerly, but in the south part of the parish it is towards the
north-east. The sandstones are of various shades of yellow and grey,
while some approach to white. Coal is found in the higher districts
of Falkirk in great abundance. Also ironstone, limestone, and sandstone.
Polmont contains coal, freestone, ironstone and fireclay. Freestone,
however, is the only rock which extends nearly throughout the whole
parish. The dip of the strata is generally to the north-east, except
when their position is altered by a dyke which traverses one part of the
parish, as exemplified in Brightons quarry, where the strata, in
consequence, dip to the north-west.
We need hardly say that our pen has done
little more than skirt the fringe of this interesting subject. But in
geological matters we occupy the position of the unlearned. |