For the purpose of arriving at a
reasonably distinct notion of our country districts in their general
features a century or a century and a-half ago, we shall do well to bear
in mind that, along with the prevailing paucity of passable roads and
absence of bridges on the larger streams, much of the surface of the land
remained in its natural state. Cultivation was more picturesque than
systematic in its developments; bogs, "mosses," and marshes continued
undrained, covering in the aggregate a greater extent of the superficies
of the country than it is easy now to realise. Natural forest grew in some
places now bare enough of trees, but thousands of acres of the most
valuable timber-land planted in the latter half of the eighteenth century
had, prior to that date, produced little but stunted heather and clumps of
broom.
If we go on to inquire how the rural
population were distributed and how they were occupied, the contrast
between the life of the people then, and what it has become since, is
found to very marked. There is perhaps no county in Scotland in which
materials fitted to illustrate this point are more abundant than in
Aberdeenshire. By the aid of the Poll Book [The "List of Polable
Persons within the shire of Aberdeen," printed by the gentlemen of the
county in 1842, with the sanction of the Spalding Club, and under the
editorial care of Dr. John Stuart, from MS. in the possession of General
Gordon of Cairness, is almost unique in its way. In the year 1693, and
again in 1695, a poll-tax was imposed by the Government of the time on all
adults, fur the purpose of paying off arrears due to the army, &c. The tax
consisted of 6s. Scots per head, on each grown-up person, male and
female, and 6s. additional if the man had a trade, such as that of a
tailor or smith. And if he had property he had to pay a fortieth part of
its value; while if he chose to call himself a "gentleman," his poll was
£3 Scots. Pretty stiff all this no doubt, considering the value of money
at the time; and so apparently thought those immediately concerned, for it
was with great difficulty they could be got to pay the poll-tax. The Poll
Book gives complete lists of the adult persons in each parish.
Comprehensive as was the poll-tax of 1696, it produced in Aberdeenshire
only the sum of £28,148 1s. 1d. Scots, or £2,345 18s. 7d sterling.]
alone, and a certain measure of local knowledge, the attentive topographic
student might readily call up to the mind’s eye quite a distinct picture
of any given locality. He would be able not only to form an estimate, very
nearly correct, of the actual population of any particular parish 180
years ago; but could also ascertain how that population was employed, and
how it was located—the forms of occupation corresponding to a great extent
with those which had obtained for some hundreds of years, as we shall
afterwards see. He would find the Poll List for the parish headed by the
laird and his family and servants; then, apart from them, the tenants and
sub-tenants, with generally a group, more or less numerous, under some
principal tenant, of cottars and their wives, of "grassmen" and their
wives; and occasionally a "lone" woman or two in a "malt house." Such was
the more specifically farm establishment in which the relation of the
various members of the small community to each other were readily
intelligible. At the next place we have the hamlet. Here were congregated
sundry minor farmers, along with the weaver or "wabstor," and the tailor
and smith, each of whom usually had his croft or piece of land to till,
and his "lair" in the moss to furnish him with fuel. The two latter,
important enough functionaries in their respective spheres, do not figure
so frequently in the Poll Lists as we, with our modern notions, might
expect. The people wore not given to variety in "changeable suits of
apparel" to the like extent that their descendants are. The common male
dress consisted chiefly of coarse woollen, home-spun, and home tailored,
with a scanty supply of linen, and thus comparatively little professional
tailoring was needed. As for the blacksmith, with scarcely a particle of
iron in the plough or any other farm implement, and no horse shoeing to
speak of— even where he was capable of doing it, which was not always the
case—he could meet the wants of a very wide district. It was necessary,
indeed, that he should do so ere he could find employment; and, in some
cases, the smith had his "sucken" bound to attend his smiddy just as the
miller, who had his place on every laird’s land, had his "bun’ sueken" up
to a much later date—the minister of a Highland parish, indeed, states
that by an "immemorial assessment," the smiths in his region were paid in
meal by the farmers, they being in some cases also entitled to "the head
of every cow slaughtered in the parish." At the hamlet, too, we should
find the "chapman" or "pack-merchant," a very important member of the
trading community in those days; who could indeed have commanded a good
deal more of ready cash, in most cases, than the ordinary class of farmers
could. The "stocks" of individual chapmen are valued in the Poll Lists, in
some cases, at as high a figure as 500 merks; and in a few instances at
even more than that; and taking into account the relative value of money,
500 merks then was probably quite as large a capital, relatively, as many
dealers in soft goods can boast of now who exhibit their wares by the
medium of a grand shop front, in place of undoing the pack on the old
kitchen "deece." In addition to the classes named, the "herd" figures
pretty regularly in the lists. He was not seldom a grown-up person of the
male sex; perhaps some one who had been lamed of a hand or arm, or who was
of more or less deficient intellect. And his mode of living was apt to be
dependant and precarious; "herd in summer, but begs his meat in winter,"
and "herd on charity, his winter maintenance being gratis," are
definitions of this official that repeatedly occur. In any case the "herd"
was an indispensable functionary. And we now and then find in the lists
such people as the "tinkler," the "homer," the "pewterer," and more rarely
the "pyper;" designations which sufficiently explain the occupations of
those who bore them. Let us
attempt to sketch the general features in the outward aspect of one of
these hamlets, or" clachans," as they were called in the Highlands. The
site of the hamlet had at first been determined, perhaps, by the presence
of a gushing spring of "caller" water, or the vicinity of some "wimplin
burnie ;" or by the fertility of
the soil at that particular spot ; for men did not then ordinarily resort
to such artificial means as the use of the suction pump to supply them
with one of the essentials of life, nor did they contemplate setting
themselves deliberately down to reclaim barren moors and hillsides for the
sake of the other. They rather chose those situations where it was
likeliest that bread would be given them without extra toil, and where
their water would be sure so long as perennial fountains, fed in hills and
heights, should seek the gladsome daylight where undulating hollows and
rifts in earth’s surface allowed it. It thus came to pass that the hamlet,
in respect of site, had frequently a fair share of the elements of natural
beauty; and in time, these came usually to be enhanced by the presence of
some goodly trees clustering about the place.
The walls of the
straw-thatched cottages or huts were composed, in the upper part at least,
of "feal" or turf; or it might be "heather and dub," or mud and straw. The
roofing "cupples," firmly embedded in the walls at bottom, were fastened
with wooden pins a-top to a short cross bar, the roof-tree extending from
end to end of the house over this bar, and between the points of the
cupple legs. Stout binders, formed of saplings sawn up the middle, were
placed horizontally down the rib of the roof, and over these again
transversely the "watlin," consisting of smaller sticks split
with a wedge. The "watlin," which, with
the cupple legs and binders, was quite visible from the interior, carried
the "divots," and these latter the "thack," ordinarily fastened on with "strae
rapes." Each house consisted of a "but" and a "ben," with little variation
in the character or extent of accommodation embraced.
In certain districts the style of
building described was known as "Auchenhalrig," from its having been first
used at a place of that name in Morayshire. Of the Auchenhairig walls and
the mode of constructing them, a detailed description informs us that:—"This
work is built of small stones and mud, or clay, mixed with straw. The
proportions of these materials required to make a rood of thirty-six
square yards are about thirty
cart loads of stones, ten cart loads of clay or mud, and twenty-four
stones weight of good fresh straw." The straw and mud being properly
worked together, "twenty-two inches are sufficient thickness for a wall of
seven feet high—if higher, they should be two feet thick—carried up
perpendicularly the same as other walls, and care should be taken never to
build more than two or three feet in height in any one part in the same
day; if raised more, the wall is apt to swell, for which there is no
remedy but to pull it down and rebuild." These walls were "equal to the
weight of any roof commonly put on mason work," and would, "when properly
built, and kept well under thatch, last for more than a century."
Here then, in our hamlet, we have a
number, varying from four or five to a dozen, of these homely yet
tolerably comfortable houses, with their walls of rude "concrete"—some
with their adjuncts of barn and byre—planted down in a miscellaneous sort
of way, as if they had dropt from the clouds, or been scattered broadcast
over the knoll by Titanic hands. A winding road, or track rather, partly
fenced in by round-headed "Thai dykes," not in the best state of repair,
leads up to the hamlet. This road expands into "the toon loan," and loses
itself somewhere about the "head of the toon "at this end; most likely it
loses itself at the other end among " the rigs outbye ;" or, at farthest,
about the margin of the "moss," where peats, or more likely "sods" only,
are dug as fuel for the community. About the place we find here and there
an exceedingly rustic sort of garden. In these "yards," which occur in no
regular order—are so placed, in fact, that a stranger could hardly guess
from the position of any one of them to which of the indwellers it
belonged—may be found, besides certain useful vegetables, as "kail," green
or red, and "syboes," a few old fashioned herbs and flowers. Some clusters
of rich-scented honeysuckle, a plant of hardy southerllwood, peppermint,
and wormwood; with, mayhap, also a slip or two of "smeird docken," the
sovereign virtues of whose smooth green leaves, in respect of sore fingers
or broken shins, commend it to careful consideration. And, as already
indicated, in almost every case we find trees about the hamlet. A few
ashes about the loan head, some rough scrubby elder (or "bourtree ")
bushes about the corners of the gardens, and, it may be, a plane-tree
enriching the scene with its mass of dark-green foliage. Then, in some
favoured corner there is the rowan tree, or possibly a pair of these
growing side by side like twin sisters with their arms interlaced. They
have yielded many a slip for crosses to put above the byre-door, on Rood
even, to fend the bestial from "uncanny fowk." For, as we know,
Rowan tree and red thread,
Keep the witches fae their speed.
Such, in a general way, was the
outward aspect of the hamlet and its surroundings. |