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140 Bath Street,
GLASGOW, 3rd May, 1872.
My DEAR SIR,
Some weeks since I sent you a hurried acknowledgment of a letter which I
then received from you, in which you requested that I would let you know
the general impression which I had formed regarding the condition of the
Lewis people who have settled in Canada, on the occasion of my visit to
that country in 1870.
When acknowledging your
letter I regretted that I had not time to send you a satisfactory reply,
and as I have been on the Continent since, and constantly moving about,
I am sorry to say I have overlooked your request, and delayed my answer
to your inquiry much longer than I intended. I trust you will kindly
excuse this apparent neglect.
From some inquiries which
I had made previous to my departure for Canada, I learned that the Lewis
emigrants were chiefly settled in the eastern townships, while the great
body of those who have gone from Islay and other parts of Argyllshire
are located in the Province of Ontario, Canada West. Any one acquainted
with the West Highlands must be aware that annually, for many years
past, a number of persons have emigrated to the Colonies. Some years
since the number who went from my own estate was very considerable. In
one year, I think, the number from Islay must have been nearly 400.
These removals were
entirely voluntary, the impelling or inducing cause in the majority of
cases with tenants of land having been that their children could not get
farms in their neighbourhood, and they preferred to accompany their
families rather than to separate. In many of these cases, however, they
had not sufficient means to pay for the passage of the whole family and
their relations, and as they wished to remove as a body, I agreed to aid
many of them, and in this way have expended a considerable sum. No one,
however, can have witnessed the distress which Highland emigrants
manifest when they are leaving their homes without being led to consider
whether the advantage they derive from emigration is really worth the
pain of removal from the land and scenes they love so well.
My own sympathy with
their sorrow on such occasions had led me to resolve that I would visit
Canada for the purpose of seeing, in their adopted home, as many as I
could of those who had for long been my own neighbours in Islay, and
that I would, at the same time, take the opportunity of seeing those who
had gone from other parts of the Highlands with which I am acquainted.
In my opinion, (if
remunerative employment could be had for our population,) their removal
is a loss to this country: but irrespective of any question regarding
the propriety or impropriety of promoting emigration, my desire was to
have an opportunity of judging on the spot whether the removal is really
an advantage to the emigrants themselves. With this sole object I
started for Quebec in the end of July, 1870.
The first thing which
pressed much on my mind after I landed was the great speed, ease, and
comfort with which the voyage is now accomplished. I left my own house
in Islay on Friday afternoon, and started from Lough Foyle the same
evening as a passenger on board the S.S. "Scandinavian," which vessel
had about 700 steerage passengers and above 100 cabin, besides a general
cargo of goods of all kinds for the American market. On the afternoon of
Thursday of the following week we passed the lighthouse in the Straits
of Belle Isle, so that I was not more than six days (rather less)
between leaving Islay and reaching the American shore. We landed at
Quebec on Saturday night, or rather Sunday morning, and the great
majority of the passengers went on to Montreal the same day by train on
the Grand Trunk Railway. I remained at Quebec for some days. I went on
to Montreal during the week, and left on the Saturday on my way to
Lennoxville, from which place I started for Stornoway, a distance of 52
miles, rather a tedious journey, as the roads are not good, the rumbling
of the Nvaggon over the corduroy of the marshy parts, or the stones on
the hilly parts of the way, making it rather disagreeable. The journey
occupied more than 12 hours, including a stoppage to dine and to feed
the horse at Bury. I stopped also for a few minutes at Lingwick, a small
town between Bury and Winslow, to call for the Free Church minister, who
is resident there, and Mr. Ross, a native of Ross-shire, who is settled
as a storekeeper, and represents the County of Compton in the Assembly
for the Province of Quebec. From Mr. Ross, and several settlers with
whom I met and conversed on the way, I was pleased to learn that the
Lewis emigrants on the whole were getting on very well, and were
satisfied they had benefited much by coming to this country.
It is about 14 miles from
the Post Office, Stornoway, to the Post Office at Lake Magentic, the
road for the greater part of' the way passing through the unbroken
primitive forest, there being few clearances by the way. From the
greatest height to which one can attain, far as the eye can reach,
nothing was visible but the dense dark green foliage of the forest trees
(or "bush," as it is called by the Canadians). I walked from the small
roadside inn and Post Office kept by your correspondent, John M'Donald
(Boston), to the residence of Captain Ramage, on the banks of the lake.
A small space has been cleared, and is now under cultivation around this
dwelling; and I found a young man working in the gardeii (Donald M'Lean)
who had but recently arrived in the country from Grimsay, North Uist. He
said that he liked the place, and expected that the other members of his
family might get on well. He was engaged for a year to work with Captain
Ramage for £25 currency in cash and his board. He had come from Glasgow
as a passenger on board the S.S. "Hibernian." The settlers near Lake
Magentie are placed at considerable disadvantage owing to their distance
from the markets where their produce is sold, and from which they
receive such articles as they require. As an illustration of this, I was
told in conversation with one of them that a bag of salt, 2 cwts., which
can be bought at Lennoxville for a dollar, costs 2 dollars at Lake
Magentie, so that the carriage more than doubles the price. Nearly all
the settlers in this neighbourhood for many miles have come from Lewis
or Uist. I met with none from other parts, and all of them with whom I
conversed gave me the same favourable report of the country; and though
some of the older men I met expressed their preference for their native
land, they all admitted, after some conversation, that they had been in
better circumstances shortly after their arrival than they had been at
home. I was in some of the houses occupied by settlers. The greater
number in this district, or I may say all, are formed of logs rudely
dressed and notched together at the four corners, warm enough, but not
so susceptible of sub-division nor so neat-looking as the frame house
which the settler usually constructs for himself as soon as the log
house is so decayed as to render it expedient to erect a new dwelling.
Those who have been long
in the district have usually frame houses of two storeys, neatly
constructed, tastefully painted, and very comfortable.
On the roadside, between
Lingwick and Winslow, I saw one belonging to a farmer named M'Auslan
from Lewis, very neat, and I feel assured superior in comfort as well as
appearance to the dwelling-house of the best of the Lewis farmers.
M'Auslan had, however, been in Canada for 30 years, and the state of his
land, as well as the aspect of his dwelling, gave satisfactory evidence
that the occupier wa8 in good circumstances. I left the waggon in which
I travelled and went into the fields for the purpose of conversing with
two young men who were at work cutting a drain in a grass field near the
house. They were sons of M'Auslan's, and knew nothing of the condition
of those still resident in Lewis, except that from the poverty of the
emigrants who had arrived in the district within their knowledge, they
concluded that the people must be very badly off. The young men spoke
very cheerfully of their circumstances, and told me that their father,
although he sometimes expressed a wish to see his early home again, was
fully satisfied that he could never have thriven so well had he remained
at home. They had a nice-looking dwelling-house, as I have said, a short
distance from the public road, and a well kept orchard, fully stocked
with fruit trees, occupied near an acre close to the house. About half
their land was cleared and under crop or grass, and they had it well
stocked with horses and cattle. Many of the young men leave this
district in winter and go into the United States, where they readily
find employment, and can earn high wages, which they save and return to
their own location when the crops require their attention.
When I reached Lingwick I
accepted Mr. Ross' invitation to rest at his house for the night. He and
his wife were very kind.
* * * * * * *
GREENOCK, 28TH JULY,
1870.—On board the steamer "Islay." Left at seven o'clock evening, the
sea being very calm, and the evening very lovely. We had a fine passage
to Port-Ellen, where we arrived about ten minutes past two on the
following morning; and I left the vessel shortly after she was moored,
and, in company with Scott, drove direct to The Cottage, where 1 got to
bed before four o'clock and rested till eight; and, having taken a turn
about the doors after breakfast, returned to Port- Ellen to be in
readiness to leave at twelve noon for Lough Foyle, where I had arranged
that I should join the S.S. "Scandinavian," on board of which ship I had
engaged my passage to Quebec. The weather was most favourable, the North
Channel having been as calm as a mill pond; and, as the "Islay " was
ready, and started a few minutes before twelve noon, we reached
Innishowen Lighthouse by three, and in a half-hour later were alongside
the "Scandinavian," which we found at anchor off Movifle. Shortly after
the "Islay" left, I dined on board the" Scandinavian," the captain
having previously pointed out my room and the place at table which I
should occupy during the voyage. After getting under way, we passed
abreast of Innishowen Lighthouse at seven o'clock the same lovely
evening, and steamed along the shores of Donegal until the coast near
Lough Swilly begins to tend to the south, where the increased distance
and the shades of evening caused us to lose sight of land, shortly after
which I proceeded to my room to spend my first night on board ship on
the outer Atlantic. The ship's log on the voyage was as follows:-
swell was not such as to
make me feel uncomfortable; and I was pleased, when evening arrived, to
find that I had got over my first day and night with so little to cause
suffering or discomfort, and felt thankful for so much.
SUNDAY, 31ST JULY,
1870.—The weather continues calm, comparatively; but the swell is ahead,
and greater than it has yet been—a chopping, short swell, which made
many on board take to their berths; and the greater number of the ladies
never left them. Any breeze we had was from the north-east, and enabled
us to carry sail; but the table was thinned when we sat down to meals,
many who were not sick preferring to avoid the saloon, and take what
they could in their rooms. We breakfast on board at half-past eight;
luncheon at noon; dine at four; tea at seven; and get supper at
half-past nine in the evening. The food supplied is sufficiently varied;
but the bread, on which I depend so much for my daily fare, is neither
good in quality nor palatable, and the biscuits tough and disagreeable.
It may be that this defect in the quality of the stuff cannot be easily
remedied, but I think an attempt ought to be made to have it of better
quality; and surely the biscuits for the cabin might he toasted dry and
made brittle, instead of being damp and tough. At half-past ten this
forenoon we had worship in the chief cabin, the purser reading portions
of the English Church Prayer Book, and the Lessons for the day. The
attendance was not very numerous; but the swell may have deterred many
from joining the service who would otherwise have been present. It was
pleasing to observe the hearty way in which the company united in
singing the hymns which were selected for opening and closing our
meeting, the chief engineer acting as our precentor, and doing the duty
very well indeed. I find that the engineer, the captain, and all in
charge on board are Scotchmen; and, as usual, are not inclined to think
less of themselves or of their fitness for their duties than those of
any other nation. Everything I have seen inspires me with confidence in
them as trustworthy, respectable men, sensible of the vast
responsibility which such a charge imposes on them, involving, as it
does, the safety of so many lives, as we have upwards of 700 human
beings on board—the cabin being full, and the steerage nearly so with
the humbler class of emigrants, besides the officers and crew.
MONDAY, 1ST AUGUST,
1870.—The weather still continued moderate, but we had more wind, and it
blew from a quarter which enabled us to carry canvas—the south-west; our
course being north-west and by west, or rather N. 53° W. The swell this
day was such as to make me feel rather uncomfortable, and put my stomach
out of sorts; but I contrived to make my appearance at breakfast and
dinner, though I ate sparingly, and had little relish for food, resting
most of the day on the sofa in my room. So far as my quarters are
concerned, I have every comfort I could desire, and much more than 1
expected ---the captain's room, which I occupy, having been assigned for
my own use. It is an apartment about ten feet square, with door and
windows opening on to the main or upper deck; having the berth on one
side, placed fore and aft, and a sofa across the ship on one side, while
a table, heating apparatus, and drawers and presses for my clothes,
occupy the other side. It is very comfortable.
TUESDAY, 2ND AUGUST,
1870.—The wind during the night shifted from south-south-west to the
north; and, as it rained and blew very hard, none of the passengers
could be on deck. I contrived to appear at breakfast with some
difficulty; but my stay was brief at table, and I returned to my room,
"no very com—fortable ava," as Mr. Brown would have said, had he seen or
been with me. The discomfort, however, was all I suffered, as I did not
get so bad as to vomit—though possibly, if I had, I might have got
sooner relieved. As it was, I made no attempt to revisit the saloon
during that day, as the gale rather increased in severity as the day
advanced, and my windows had to be closed and the door protected against
the ingress of the water which was thrown on deck; as the waves rose
high, pouring large sheets of water on deck, which rose over my room,
and the spray was passing high over and above the ship's funnel. This
was the only day when the state of the weather approached to a storm;
but, whether owing to the great length of the vessel and size I know
not, but I have often been much more tossed about on the passage from
Islay to Glasgow.
WEDNESDAY, 3RD AUGUST,
1870.—The weather this morning, happily, was less stormy, and I ventured
to take some breakfast in my room. It got better as the day advanced;
and, as the swell abated, I was able, though not very well, to appear at
dinner and supper; and the night was so favourable that the swell gave
me no discomfort, though the fig which came on caused some anxiety, as I
understood we were then getting near the region in which icebergs and
floating masses of ice are met with; and these appear to be one of the
chief, if not the chief, risk of the navigation between Great Britain
and the St. Lawrence ports. My seclusion, owing to the state of the
weather and the heavy sea, enabled me during these days to read over
Lyell's Visits to America; and the four volumes are all the
literary food I have had on the voyage, except Fraser's Report on the
Schools of the United States and Canada, the merits of which I hope to
test by personal inquiries if I have time and opportunity. I shall try.
THURSDAY, 4TH AUGUST,
1870.—During the past night the only discomfort was caused by the loud
screech of the fog whistle, which was frequently sounded as we passed
along, the engines being frequently moved very slow, and this was
continued during most of the day, those in charge on board being very
anxious, as we were now approaching the land, and it was desirable that
we should get sight of the shore before dark, as they had got no sight
of the sun since we left Derry to enable them to determine our latitude
exactly by meridian observation; the sea, however, was calm, and enabled
myself and other landsmen to enjoy ourselves with renewed freedom,
either on deck or at table, the attendance at which appears to depend
very much on the state of the ocean; our progress was not much retarded,
however, though we continued to require to run slow at intervals during
the day when the fog became so dense as to render this needful. About
three in the afternoon, my attention was directed by a fellow-passenger
to the first iceberg which had been visible from our ship. The low
temperature, which had fallen for two days past, as low as 40, had made
the officers of the ship aware that we were near ice, and 1 was much
interested in having an opportunity of seeing the huge mass in the
distance, some miles south from our course. In form it had a conical
appearance, very much resembling Knock Hill or Ailsa Craig, but white as
snow itself; and glistening through the fog. We soon, however, lost
sight of it as we steamed along, but had not proceeded far when we saw
several others on both sides all round the horizon; indeed they, and
lesser masses of ice floating past, were seen, as we proceeded on our
course. The afternoon happily got rather clearer, and by four o'clock
the land became visible, and shortly after we passed the lighthouse on
the south point of Belle Isle; when at dinner, between four and five,
Captain Ballantyne came and told me that we were passing close to an
iceberg, and I went on deck to see it. It appeared to me that it is not
easy to exaggerate the risk which vessels incur from ice on this
passage; during the afternoon and evening we must have seen 40 or 50 of
these moving mountains of ice, on which neither winds nor waves produce
any impression, other than the wear at the sea margin, where the wash of
the sea cuts into the mass of ice and leaves the super- incumbent mass
suspended in the air, until so much below is melted away as to cause the
whole berg to turn over, the top getting below, and the under part
coming above, the surface of the ocean. A vessel might as well strike
against a rocky cliff on the shore as one of these bergs, the dimensions
of which are so vast that no ship could survive collision, as the sides
are frequently very precipitous, and the edges sharply worn, so sharp
that I can conceive that a vessel would be cut much the same as if it
were to strike a sharp mass of hardened steel. After dinner I went on to
the bridge, and on our course we passed within 300 or 400 yards of a
very large berg, in which I could plainly perceive some stones fixed
quite near the summit, rendering it probable that what I saw as the top
had previously been the under part of the mass, and had so got the
stones embedded when in contact with the land; and with the glass I
could distinctly perceive that one part was discoloured, or rather
covered, with small stones or gravel; in form it had a close resemblance
to the east end of Texa Island, the cliff being quite as high, and the
mass as great as if the eastern end of the island had floated into the
sea. I could also observe that the magnitude of the part under water was
much greater than the part above, as one or two clumps, one of them
about the size and height of Tarskeir, though apparently separated from
the high cliff by the sea, was evidently connected under the surface, as
the shallow water, over the space between, clearly revealed the bright
mass of pure ice which connected the clumps with the greater mass, and
united the whole into one vast ice rock. Many were the guesses made by
the passengers as to the height and magnitude; but the nature of the
atmosphere at the time had a tendency to make every object in the
distance loom larger than the reality, and hence we had conjectures of
an altitude of 500 or 600 feet for icebergs at a distance which
gradually became less as we got nearer to them, and reduced our estimate
of the height to 150 or 200 feet at most. My own impression regarding
the one which we approached so closely, was, that it was not more than
120 feet above water at the highest point, and that it was 400 to 500
yards in length. As the evening advanced I was glad to be assured by the
officers that we had got beyond the course in which we should meet with
ice, either floating or bergs. I was told that one of the ships of this
line was lost, and a great number of her passengers, by striking in a
heavy sea on a piece of floating ice, so small that it was scarcely
visible above the surface of the sea, though the shock was so little
felt that many of the passengers on board at the time were not conscious
that any such accident had occurred; but it appears that when the ship
had once struck the mass, the swell continued to make her bump on it,
and it cut her so quickly, in so many parts, that she went down in a few
minutes. We saw some small boats fishing off the coast of Labrador,
which is rocky and very bare, there being little vegetation, except a
low stunted brushwood in some of the valleys, where there are some
fishing stations, inhabited by the Esquimaux, and to which, at this
season, boats resort from Newfoundland and Prince Edward Island, as well
as from Canada. The fishing may be good, but it is truly an ungenial
climate, and the poor Esquimaux and French- Canadians need not be envied
its occupation.
FRIDAY, 5TH AUGUST,
1870.—This morning we were passing along the gulf, troubled with the fog
somewhat, and the decks kept wet with mist and rain, but the sea was
smooth, and the ship very agreeable for those who were not good sailors;
and happily about mid-day the mist cleared off, and we saw the Island of
Anticosti on the north, and gradually as the evening came on the sky got
brighter, and the distance clearer, so that the land could be seen, far
off the south and west; the captain having pointed out to me the land at
Gaspé, when it was upwards of 50 miles distant, and Mr. M'Lean directed
my attention to the position of Miramachi, far off to the south-west. I
had quite recovered from any derangement which the stormy sea had
produced, and was able to enjoy my dinner with a glass of wine, and a
salt herring and potatoes for my supper; there was, however, little to
r!ote during our progress, as the land was very distant, and we could
see nothing on the shore. Anticosti, indeed, can scarcely be said to be
inhabited, though there are a few families on the island; but it is
covered with brushwood so dense, that Captain Barclay, who acts as shore
manager for Messrs. Allan, and had been on the island attending to one
of their ships, which was wrecked on the shore, mentioned that he had
walked on the top of the bushes into the interior for some distance, but
found that there was nothing else to be seen, and, therefore, returned
to his quarters on the shore. It appears that some Scotchman has
recently bought the whole island for five cents per acre, believing that
it may yet be made of value for salmon fishing, and other sport, as
there are a great many bears and other animals which may be valuable for
their skins. Just before bed we sighted the lighthouse on the island—a
flash light—which serves to guide passing ships in the gulf.
SATURDAY, 6TH AUGUST,
1870.—This morning was bright and fine, and quite redeemed the promise
which the evening sky had given of fine weather for the day; we were not
far from the land on the southern bank of the St. Lawrence, and early in
the forenoon were so near that we could easily see the houses of the
small farmers on the shore as we passed along—they were not numerous
—early in the day, but increased in number as we advanced to the west,
while the slope of the land towards the sea gradually became less steep,
and the aspect of the coast was very pleasing, the sub-divisions being
very small, and reminded me of the slope near Port-Charlotte, on the
shores of Lochindaal, the holdings of the French- Canadians looking much
like the lots of the Port-Charlotte villagers; the part of the shore
which I saw first reminded me of the hills between Dunoon and Toward,
the whitewashed houses of the "habitans" giving the appearance, and
taking the place of the villas on the Clyde. At breakfast, the captain
informed me that we should probably be able to get letters sent ashore
in the afternoon, at Father Point, where the St. Lawrence pilot comes on
board, and that by doing so the letters would go to Britain by the
steamer which had left Quebec in the morning, and so would reach friends
at home within little more than a fortnight from the time I had left
home. This intimation led me to employ my time in writing to several of
those I had left behind, who would care to hear of my safe arrival in
Canadian waters, and of my progress so far on my journey; and about
three in the afternoon we reached Father Point, took on board a pilot,
and sent ashore our mail bag with despatches from all on board who chose
to take advantage of this opportunity of communicating with their
friends—we also landed one or two passengers who resided in this
district of the country. The evening was very fine, though a smoky haze
prevented us from seeing the shore distinctly, on the north, indeed, it
is only visible when the weather is clear, owing to the width of the
river at this point; but as we proceeded westward the coast became
distinctly visible on both sides, and about seven or eight we passed the
"Prussian" steamer on her way to Derry, with passengers and mails, and
which would receive our mail bag on her way eastward, at Father Point.
The mouth of the River Saguenay was pointed out on the north, before
dark, where it unites with the St. Lawrence; and we passed several small
towns on the south coast, the bright tin-covered spires of the numerous
churches, and white-washed or painted dwellings of the residents on the
coast, giving a bright cheerful aspect to the shore, in the light of the
setting sun. Soon after dark I went to bed, and about three or four in
the morning the engines came to a final stop as we touched at the
landing-place opposite Quebec. I was asked to get up for breakfast
before six, but I lay still till near seven, and then took but little,
and made ready for the removal of my baggage; it turned out, however,
that the first steamer to cross the ferry had left before I was ready,
and it was not till half-past ten that I got my luggage past the minute
examination of the custom's officers on the quay, and was fairly on my
way across the river for Quebec, which I reached in safety, and
proceeded direct to the St. Louis Hotel, where, after dressing, I had
lunch, and then arranged to visit the cemetery with Mr. Maberly, who had
been a passenger on board the "Scandinavian," having come out to join
his regiment, "The Rifles," at Montreal. The day was very hot, but I
enjoyed the exercise after a week's confinement to the ship, and if the
atmosphere had been clear we should have had a fine view of the country
as we went along; the distance is more than two miles, and the walk, and
our saunter about the Heights of Abraham, and in the cemetery itself,
occupied all the afternoon, so that we got back to Quebec just in time
to wash and sit down for dinner at half-past six. The company at dinner
consisted of Mr. Maberly, Mr. Rogers, Colonel Ready, all three connected
with the army; Mr. H. Buchanan, from the Cape of Good Hope, and Mr.
Knot, a young man who had come out for a situation in one of the banks
in Quebec; and Mr. Prestwick of the Commissariat was invited by one of
the party to join us, and we formed a pleasant party, as all the others,
except Mr. Prestwick, had been fellow-passengers on the voyage, and had
become more or less acquainted on the way. Mr. Buchanan is a cousin of
Mr. Thomas Buchanan, of Buchanan, Wilson & Co., who holds Ardbeg
Distillery, and I had, in consequence of his telling me this, and that
he was a Glasgow man, become more intimate with him than with the
others. Mr. John Fleming of Glasgow, whom I had recently seen in London,
is married to a sister of Mr. Buchanan's, and he himself is married to a
sister of the wife of Colonel Ross, who also was on board the
"Scandinavian," and had induced Buchanan to make the voyage, in the
hope, that in New York, and also in Canada, he might form some business
connections for the sale of fine wool from the Cape, for the purpose of
being manufactured in America. At dinner it was agreed that we should
make an excursion to see the Falls of Montmorenci on the following day,
and I was induced, though with much reluctance, to make one of a party
to visit the Saguenay river on Tuesday; Captain Ballantyne of the
"Scandinavian" having urged me to do this for the purpose of seeing the
fine scenery, which he described as surpassing anything of the kind on
the American continent.
MONDAY, 8TH AUGUST,
1870.—This day again was hot, but being rather cloudy it was more
pleasant to move about, and having, after breakfast, called to deliver
some letters of introduction which I had received from Mr. A. Arthur to
his friends in Quebec, but both of whom were at the seaside, I then
joined my friends, and about noon, Buchanan and I, with other two,
started for the Falls of Montmorenci in a carriage, which carried us
there in little more than an hour. I had never previously seen the fall
of so great a volume of water over such a high cliff, and this sight I
truly regarded as well worthy of the time it took. The rocky precipice,
over which the water descends in a mass of foam, is said to be 250 feet
high, and the effect produced as one sees it from the perches, which
have been made on both sides of the stream, is very imposing; we had all
a desire to see it from below, but the distance which one requires to
walk is considerable, and as the day was hot, we abandoned this thought,
and set off, after getting luncheon in the little inn on the eastern
side, for the so-called "natural steps," being the exposed
stratification of the laminated limestone rock through which the river
has cut for itself a narrow channel for a great distance above the
bridge of Montmorenci. We amused ourselves throwing pieces of wood into
the stream, and watching the way in which they were tossed about by the
rushing mass of water, as it coursed swiftly through the narrow girt
below the overhanging rocks on which we stood or ran. We got back to
Quebec in good time for dinner, and our wanderings made us willing to
retire early to bed.
TUESDAY, 9TH AUGUST,
1870. - The steamer for Saguenay leaves Montreal ostensibly at 8 a.m.;
but extreme punctuality it seems is by no means a characteristic of
travelling in this region, whether by steamer or rail, and the boat left
when ready, and we proceeded down the St. Lawrence, sighting again the
Falls of Montniorenci, as we approached the western point of the Island
of Orleans, which here divides the river into two branches—one on the
north being too shallow for navigation at low water, and the other on
the south being open at all times for the largest ships; we coasted
along this island, the shore studded with houses and surrounding
orchards, which are spoken as excelling in the quality of the plums,
which are sent at the season, to the market of Quebec, in large
quantities for sale. After passing Orleans the vessel was steered to the
north side of the river, which we went along at a short distance from
the shore, till we reached the landing-place at Murray Bay, a favourite
resort for visitors from the towns and inland districts. There is little
to be seen on the northern side, as it is still covered by the unbroken
primeval forest, and presents to the view merely an undulating surface
of trees and woods, from the margin of the river, far as the eye can
reach upward and inland. After leaving Murray Bay, the vessel crosses to
the opposite shore, and touches at River du Loup, which is situated some
miles further east, and thence crosses again to Ta du Sae, at the
entrance to the river Saguenay, where we arrived between seven and eight
in the evening. We had remained for an hour at River du Loup, and had a
walk for a mile along the road which leads to the town; and on our
arrival at Ta du Sae we were informed that the vessel would remain there
till probably two o'clock next morning, so that we might land and stroll
about before going to bed on board. We occupied our time on shore in
walking up to the hotel, and sitting for a time there, seeing some
Americans play, what is here the favourite game, of skittles, a good
under-cover amusement for a rainy day. After our return to the steamer,
we listened to some ladies on board singing and playing the piano as an
accompaniment; this instrument being apparently an essential part of the
correct furnishing for one of these vessels. We went early to bed, and I
got up early after daybreak in the hope of seeing from our cabin some of
the grand scenery which I had heard so much lauded as a characteristic
of the banks of the Saguenay; but, except that they were clothed with
the never-ending forest, they differ nothing in general aspect from the
hills elsewhere: the hills forming the banks of the Saguenay, indeed,
present little to interest, except at two noted points, where a
perpendicular cliff of bare rock rises from the water to a height of
perhaps 600 or 700 feet; and as the steamer, in passing, passes so
close, that you may toss a penny piece on the shore, they seem to
overhang, and produce a most imposing effect. These cliffs are said to
be 1,800 feet high, but this I cannot accept, as I think the altitude of
the summit cannot exceed 700 feet, so far as the impression on my mind
enabled inc to judge; but I was sadly disappointed, and felt annoyed
that I had wasted three, or rather four days on such an unsatisfactory
trip, for which I have blamed myself very much ever since. When we
reached Ha Ha Bay, we remained some hours, when I landed and went into
the country a walk of two or three miles alone, as my friends had set
off for a drive around the bay, while I preferred to pass to the
interior, and to see the lands occupied by the French, who are the only
settlers in that district. I saw little to gratify a taste for good
farming; but the people themselves appear contented and cheery, much
given to amusement and mirth-making in any form they can. Our return to
Quebec was by the same course as we came, and I was glad when I landed
on the morning of Thursday, and was ready to start for Montreal.
THURSDAY, 11TH AUGUST,
1870.—The steamer from Quebec for Montreal leaves at four o'clock,
afternoon, so I dined early at the St. Louis and made my way to the
steamer, having previously secured my berth, and transferred my baggage
to the Montreal boat. The heat, and my want of rest for the two previous
nights, caused me to rest satisfied with merely visiting the citadel and
taking mine ease in the inn during the few hours I was on shore, as I
returned to the steamer, which starts for Montreal at four o'clock. The
haze on the river prevented me from seeing the shore distinctly, but, so
far as I could judge, it exactly resembles the banks to the cast of
Montreal, except that it is settled on both sides, and small towns or
villages are located at various points, where the steamers touch oil
their way to and from Montreal and Quebec. These vessels are handsomely
fitted up, and are constructed on a very different principle from any
engaged in our coasting trade at home, for which, in my opinion, the
American mode of construction would not be suitable, as I should not
like to be off the Mull of Cantyre in one of these vessels during a
stormy winter night, though the master of one of them told me, in
conversation, that they would stand any sea; and, as an evidence of the
correctness of his opinion, he mentioned that similar vessels ply
between the ports on the Atlantic coast of the United States, where the
storms must be as severe and the sea as high as on the Brit!sh coast;
but I have been told by others that this is not correct, as any such
vessel takes refuge in the nearest haven whenever there comes the
appearance of a storm. We arrived at Montreal early, and I set out on
arrival for the St. Lawrence hall Hotel, where I dressed and
breakfasted; but, before I had finished, Mr. H. Allan called to invite
me to come and take up quarters at his city residence, and to accompany
him next day to his country seat on Lake Memphremagog. Mr. George
Stephens, Montreal, also called to invite me to dine with him that day;
so I accepted Mr. Stephen's invitation to dinner, and agreed to go with
Mr. Allan on Saturday, as I learned, after some conversation, that by
doing so I would be so far on my way to the eastern townships where so
many of the people of Lewis Highlanders are settled. There was a small
pleasant party at Mr. Stephen's; and I was agreeably surprised when the
gentleman sitting next to me said, "You are well acquainted with my best
friend, John Ridley," and he informed me that he is a brother of Sir
Arthur Monk, whom I had met at Warwick, and his sister is married to
Captain Orde, the son of Sir John. This incident made me feel at home,
and he afterwards told me that he had sold out his commission in the
army for the purpose of beginning business in Montreal—in making iron
plates, nails, and other articles of iron—in which I was glad to learn
subsequently that he is doing well. Mr. Monk wished me to dine with him
the following day, but this was not in my power, as I had previously
engaged to accompany Mr. Allan to Lake Memphremagog. After breakfast I
went off, accompanied by Mr. Allan, to deliver some letters of
introduction, and, in particular, to see Mr. W. Chapman, and to deliver
the letter which Mr. Morrison had sent for him. I had some conversation
with Mr. C. about Canada; but he is little acquainted with, the
circumstances of the class whom I had come to see, as he acts as Local
Commissioner in Montreal for the Trust and Loan Company, and the poor
islanders who have come to Canada are not favourably regarded as
applicants for loans. At Messrs. Buchanan, Leckie & Co.'s I met Mr.
Hennesy, jun., from Cognac, and received for my use in travelling fifty
dollars in Canadian money, so as to save the few sovereigns that I still
have for use on my return to Britain, if spared to make a safe return
voyage. I wandered about during the day, and dined in the evening at Mr.
Stephen's, as already mentioned. The day passing away quickly, and the
walking and previous want of sleep, prepared me to enjoy my bed when I
got to it about twelve at night.
SATURDAY, 13TH AUGUST,
1870.--I wrote some letters for home after breakfast, and, when
finished, Mr. Allan called about one o'clock, and I was ready to go to
the rail, on which we started at half-past one. On our way we dined at
Richmond, and did not reach Newport Station, in the United States
(Vermont), till near nine at night, where Mr. Allan's nice steam yacht
was in waiting at the quay to receive us, and a little after ten we
landed at his Cottage, the walk from the quay to the house reminding me
very much of landing at my own island home; for though the trees here
are taller and more numerous, the difference was not so readily
discerned as in the clear light of day, and the site of the building,
and the entrance to it from the grounds by the verandah, added to the
resemblance in the dining-room. After a light supper, we were soon in
bed. Miss Allan and Mrs. Wolesley, the wife of Colonel Wolesley, who is
now on his way with troops to the Red River settlement, joined us in the
yacht at Newport, with two fine boys, sons of Mr. Allan, Miss A. being,
as I understand, his eldest unmarried daughter. Miss A., Mrs. W., and
the boys had come to meet Mr. Allan; and a Miss Starus, a young,
intelligent Canadian, who had come with Mr. Allan from Montreal on a
visit to his country seat, and we made a very pleasant little party. I
could not but feel that, with a similar small steam yacht, I could make
The Cottage more frequently a resort at the end of a week, as Mr.
Allan's residence is more distant from Montreal than The Cottage from
Glasgow, and the time taken on the journey, which is more than nine
hours, would be more than enough to reach The Cottage, via Tarbert, if
there were an afternoon boat from Glasgow, or even in fine weather by
train to Ardrossau, and thence round the Mull. Reflections of this
nature led me to resolve that I should enquire what the vessel cost to
build and to work, as Mr. A. uses her every week for several months in
summer.
SUNDAY, 14TH AUGUST,
1870.—The quiet of this place was a pleasing contrast to the stir and
bustle I have been in for the two Sundays past, and at breakfast I
agreed to join Miss Allan, Mrs. W., and the boys in going to church,
which is at Georgeville, some miles distant on the shore of the lake,
and the yacht is the means of conveyance to and from. We were rather
late in starting, and arrived after the service had begun, but in all it
was very brief; and I was rather surprised, after the service had been
so much curtailed, to hear the clergyman announce that the homily would
be preached in the evening, and the congregation was dismissed in about
a quarter of an hour, or less, from the time we had entered. There were
few present, and it did not seem to be cause for regret that the people
should fail to attend on such ministration. I know not whether there be
any other minister in the district more zealous and devoted to his work,
but if such services are a characteristic of Episcopacy in Canada, I
should fain hope that some other denomination may soon be encouraged to
establish a place of worship in the district. I passed the afternoon
about the grounds and oil lake, and got another quiet night.
MONDAY, 15TH AUGUST,
1870.—The train for Sherbrooke, on my journey to the eastern townships,
was expected to leave Newport at one; and we, therefore, got on board
the yacht shortly after eleven and proceeded on our voyage, making,
however, some deviations from the direct course, from Mr. Allan's desire
to give me an opportunity of seeing the various interesting views on the
way. We reached about one o'clock, but were no sooner ashore than we
learned that there was no train to the north on Mondays till seven in
the evening. In these circumstances, Mr. A. thought it best, as I was
unwilling to remain till next day, that we should all take luncheon at
the hotel, and that I might then accompany them back to his house, and
take the steamer which runs between Magog and Newport when passing on
her way south the same afternoon. In this way I had ample opportunity
for seeing this fine lake, and got to Newport some time before the train
reached from the south, by which I got to Lennoxville about nine
o'clock, but found that it did not leave there till after a delay of
three hours; and this compelled me to try and get a conveyance to carry
me on to Sherbrooke, as 1 wished then to learn from Mr. Heniker how I
should best reach the Lewis people, and I succeeded in inducing a
waggoner, with his team, to drive me along for two dollars; and,
notwithstanding the lateness of time hour, I set off as soon as I
reached the hotel to see this agent for the British American Land
Company, and found him most kind and ready to forward my wishes in any
way he could. He asked me to call next morning early, and he would then
give me directions how to proceed, and aid me in procuring a conveyance
to carry me on my journey. So closed my 55th birth-day.
TUESDAY, 16TH AUGUST,
1870.—I was at Mr. Heniker's by eight o'clock this morning; and as soon
as he had finished his breakfast we set off to the livery stablekeeper,
who agreed to give me a waggon, and his boy to drive it to Winslow (Stornoway
Post Office), and he gave me a letter of introduction to Mr. Noble, a
storekeeper there, who, he thought, would give me a horse to carry me to
Lake Magentic. As soon as this was arranged I set off with Mr. H. to
visit the woollen mill of Sherbrooke, in which he is interested as a
partner in connection with Mr. Stephen, Montreal, and some others. I am
not so skilled in such machinery as to enable me to judge of the merits
of the machines iii use, but the tweeds and other finished cloths which
they showed me I thought equal in appearance to any I had seen. This
visit over, I set cut on my journey, and a weary day's travel it was,
over 52 miles of rough roads, which, including a stoppage of an hour to
get our dinner at Bury, about half-way, occupied fully twelve hours, and
we did not reach Stornoway till ten o'clock at night. At Bury I met Mr.
Noble, on his way to visit a brother who is located in Canada West; and
as I explained to him my object, and delivered the letters of
introduction which I had received from Mr. Heniker and Mr. Allan, jun.,
he at once asked me to remain all night at his house, and wrote a letter
to Mr. Mackay, his salesman, asking him to give me any aid in his power,
and to his daughter, telling her to give me quarters for the night, and
in this way we were at once at ease on our arrival at their village. The
road, however, did look very long after the night came; and as we could
do nothing to avoid the stones and ruts on the road, the jolting of the
car was frequently like to throw us out of it altogether as we rumbled
over either the corduroy of the marsh or the boulders and holes on the
hilly parts. On our way I had met and conversed with several
Highlanders; and, among others, when passing Lingwick, I called for the
Rev. Mr. ----, the Free Church minister, and for Mr. Ross, a native of
Ross-shire, who is settled here as a storekeeper, and is M.P. for the
County in the Assembly for the Province. From these gentlemen I learned
that I should require to go on next day to Lake Magentic, a distance of
fourteen miles from Mr. Noble's, Stornoway; and I was pleased to learn
from them, and from the emigrants I had met, that, on the whole, the
Lewismen were getting on very well, and were all satisfied they had
benefited by coming to this country. I availed myself of Mr. Noble's
invitation, and passed the night at his house, and early next day,
WEDNESDAY, 17TH AUGUST,
1870, was on the way to Lake Nagentic, where the body of Lewismeii are
located. It is about fourteen miles from 'Winslow to the Post Office and
small roadside inn near Lake Magentic, and, after putting up the horse
there, and asking that they would provide some dinner for us, to be
ready on my return, I walked on to the residence of Captain Ramage, on
the banks of the lake. The road between Winslow and Lake Mageutic, for
the greater part of the distance, passes through the unbroken forest,
there being very few clearances by the way; and from the greatest height
to which one can attain by the way, nothing is visible but the dense
foliage of the trees (or "bush," as it is called by the Canadians) far
as the eye can reach, and the lake itself is surrounded by the same, the
only open space being the limited portion which surrounds Captain
Ramage's dwelling. Captain R. has been in correspondence with Mrs.
Thomas regarding her scheme for sending out emigrants from Harris and
Uist; and I saw working in the garden a young man who had arrived from
Harris only a few days before, and who had been engaged by the Captain
to work for a year for 100 dollars and his board, an amount which,
though possibly less than a workman usually receives in this country, is
quite as much as a new comer can be worth until he has acquired some
experience at the various kinds of work in use in this country, the
practice being very different from that of the old country cultivation.
I had some conversation with Captain Ramage, who informed me that he had
settled here with his family in consequence of his having purchased a
large area of land in this district, from which he hoped to derive some
minerals, and to sell to advantage as soon as eligible settlers can be
had to purchase from him; and, of course, the greater the number that
may settle in the district, the better will be the demand for land and
the supply of labourers to work it. He mentioned that Mrs. Thomas had
sent out some emigrants on condition that they should repay the outlay
which she had made on their behalf, and had forwarded to him their
acknowledgment of their debt, but that he saw no prospect of recovering
any part, though he would gladly do so, as the amount would be expended
in sending out more emigrants. My impression is that there is no
prospect of any funds being obtained from this source, either for
promoting emigration or any other object. Captain R. mentioned that Mr.
P. Rintoul of Glasgow, and Mr. Shaw, Emigration Agent, Glasgow, are well
acquainted with his position and the circumstances under which he had
come to Lake Magentic, and would give all useful information to
intending emigrants. He asked me, if I see Mrs. Thomas on my return, to
explain to her the improbability of realizing cash. After dinner at John
M'Donald's (Boston), I retraced my way to Winslow, and as soon
thereafter as we could change horses I left Mr. Noble's, having first
given Miss Noble five dollars to buy a book as a memorial of my hurried
visit. We reached Lingwick about half-past seven, and found Mr. Ross,
who represents the County of Compton in the Provincial Legislature, and
he at once kindly got his wife to prepare tea; and while she was so
engaged I passed a half-hour in Mr. R.'s shop or store, discussing with
several farmers, resident in the neighbourhood, the circumstances of the
Lewis people who are settled in this an4 the adjoining townships. Some
of the party were Lewismen; and I was pleased to note that, while
desirous to uphold the reputation of Lewis, they frankly and fully
recognized the superior advantages which the Lewis people had derived
from coming to Canada. Some of them, indeed, appear to have forgotten
the characteristics of the climate and soil of Lewis, and spoke of it in
terms of commendation as an agricultural country, but they did recognise
that the fertile land around Lingwick is superior in quality to the most
of Lewis. I passed the evening pleasantly with Mr. Ross, talking about
the country, its occupiers, and the school system of the Province. Mr.
Ross is a native of Ross-shire, and has been long in the country, and is
very highly respected by all his neighbours. He has always extended a
helping hand readily to poor settlers, and has not so strictly enforced
his claims against them as others have usually done; but he expressed
the regret that the poor from his native county frequently manifest a
desire to lean on any one who gives them aid rather than to make an
effort to obtain independence by their own exertions; and for this
reason, he is very anxious that some settlers should he induced to come
to the eastern townships from parts of Scotland where the system of
agriculture is better than the western districts of Ross-shire, and who
might, by a better practical example of skill and industry, stimulate
the Highlanders to further improvement, as too many of them are ready to
rest satisfied as soon as they have attained to a comfortable
subsistence, and live on in the log house rather than labour more to get
a better dwelling, or otherwise to add to their wealth.
THURSDAY, 18TH AUGUST,
1870.—After an early breakfast with Mr. Ross, I left Lingwick and
proceeded to Sherbrooke, resting at Cookstown for an hour in order to
feed the pony. While sitting at the door under the verandah of the inn,
a young man came forward and spoke to me, telling me he had passed me in
his "buggie" on the previous day when I was on my way to Lake Magentic,
as he had then been on his journey from Magentic to this place with his
sister, who had been engaged to serve as housemaid in the inn here. She
is to receive five dollars per month. I found the young man very
intelligent, and sensible of the advantages he and his brothers and
sisters had gained by leaving Lewis, though he admitted that for some
years after coming out the old folks had wished they were back again.
The young men from this district often go to various parts of the United
States during the seasons of the year when they can best be spared from
their own farms, and they then get employment at high wages, and, after
working for some time, return again to their home with the money they
have earned. He, however, expressed a doubt how far such a system was
prudent, as he felt that their labour on their own land was as necessary
and likely to yield a greater profit than any wages they could possibly
earn. We reached Sherbrooke in time not only to enable me to join the
afternoon train for Montreal, but to call for Mr. Heniker and get my
dinner at the inn. I wished to thank Mr. H. for his kindness, which had
been of service in facilitating my access to the Lewis people in the
eastern townships. I reached the St. Lawrence Hall Hotel about nine in
the evening, and was glad to get quickly to bed after the long
journeying and little rest of the past few days.
FRIDAY, 10TH AUGUST,
1870.—I had little to do in Montreal. After breakfast I went and called
for Buchanan, Leckie & Co., and got my letters and a further supply of
cash for my journey westward. Called also for Mr. Allan and Mr. Chapman,
with whom I left a message for Mr. Monk, saying I should be glad to dine
with him the same evening at his club, which I did, and enjoyed myself
very much. lie seems a fine young fellow, and I trust he may be very
successful in the business he has entered on. During the day I delivered
some letters of introduction which I had received from Mr. Leitch, Mr.
Campbell of Tullichewan, and Mr. Fox, and wandered about to see the
public buildings and the town itself, which seems thriving and
extensive. From the terrace near Mr. Hugh Allan's town residence I got a
good view; but the best I had of the town was from the top of a
warehouse occupied by Mr. --, who was a passenger on board the
"Scandinavian." Mr. Allan's house is said to have cost above £15,000. It
looks like a greater sum, as the whole is of hewn stone, parts of it
ornate, and the rooms are very large—one of them, a saloon or hail for
evening parties, being about 70 feet long, and wide and high-roofed in
proportion—_while the parts I saw of it appeared to be richly furnished.
It was Mr. A. who said the house, furnished, cost £15,000. I had
intended to go to Lacbiite on leaving Montreal, and thence to Ottowa;
but I was told that I should not do so at the time, as a fire, which was
then burning over a great area not far from Ottowa, had so filled the
atmosphere with dense smoke and ashes, as to make it difficult and even
dangerous to travel. The smoke was so dense as to have led to the
shutting of the navigation of the rivers, and I was thus shut off from
seeing either the rapids of the St. Lawrence or inquiring as to any
memorials of my father at Lachute.
SATURDAY, 20TH AUGUST,
1870.—Left Montreal by 9 a.m., per rail, for Toronto, which I reached in
little more than twelve hours, and got to the Rossin House Hotel in time
to go to bed by ten o'clock, or little past it. In railway travelling
one gets but an imperfect view of the country; but from what I did see I
thought there was little to describe, the land on both sides for the
whole journey being but partially cleared from the original forest, so
that the alternate succession of a cleared cultivated space and then
woodland is the unvarying feature of the scenery as you pass along.
SUNDAY, 21ST AUGUST,
1870.—Fatigued by the journey and previous want of sleep I was not early
astir, but contrived to get well washed and breakfasted in time to go to
church for the morning service. I can say little for the sermon, but the
preacher was not the minister of the church in which I worshipped; but,
as I learned from Mr. Stalker, who had been a passenger on the
"Scandinavian," and who spoke to me as I came out, was there for the day
only as a substitute for the gentleman who is in the charge. I found
Colonel Ready, who had also been on the "Scandinavian," was staying at
the Rossin House, and I had some agreeable conversation with him in the
evening.
MONDAY, 22ND AUGUST,
1870.—During the day I delivered my letters of introduction, and, among
others, that from Mr. Tait to the Hon. George Brown, with whom I had
some conversation regarding Highland emigrants, and received from him an
invitation to take up my quarters at his house on my return to Toronto.
I called also for Mr. Laidlaw, who had offered, on board the
"Scandinavian," to aid me in procuring information as to the best mode
of travelling, so as to accomplish my object of Reeing the greatest
number of Islay settlers with the least loss of time. There was no lack
of will to help, but none of the gentlemen I knew had any personal
knowledge of either the settlers or the districts in which they are
located; and, in these circumstances, I thought my best course was to
take the first conveyance for Beaverton, where I might meet some of my
old neighbours, or at any rate be near them. On inquiry I was told that
I could leave Toronto at 4 p.m., and reach Beaverton the same evening by
steamer from Belle Ewart, across Lake Simcoe. On getting this
information I resolved to set off the same afternoon, and by little
after four I was on my way to Belle Ewart on the cars of the Northern
Railway. On reaching the station, however, I learned that there would be
no steamer for Beaverton that night, but that I could go by one which
was about to start for Orillia; this, however, I declined, and proceeded
with my bag to a small inn near the station, and engaged to get my
supper and bed there, and to start at ten next morning. While my supper
was being prepared, as it was not dusk, I walked down to the quay on the
bank of the lake to make some inquiries about the steamer "Emily May,"
by which I was to get to Beaverton next day. The first person I
addressed was the person who was superintending the work that was going
on alongside the vessel; and, after some questions as to the sailing and
arrival of the vessel, I inquired whether he was a Scotchman, which
being answered, I asked where from, when he replied from Islay, and I
soon learned that he was now mate on board the "Emily May," his name
James Jamieson, and that he was formerly servant with the late Alexander
M'Dougall, Ardbeg, whom he tended and took care of for some years. I
learned from James that he receives 35 dollars a month (with his food
and room) for his services as mate oil board the steamer, and that he
lives at home during the winter when the navigation of the lake is
closed, employed in chopping and preparing the land for receiving the
seed in spring— having acquired 200 acres of land, which is all paid,
and of which he has about 45 acres cleared and under cultivation or
grass, with two yoke of oxen, three horses, five cows, and twelve sheep.
He had about 20 acres this year under crop, all of which is now well
secured, and was of good quality. He is married to a daughter of
Alexander M'Leau (who went from Eskinish about 30 years since), and has
a family of three boys and one girl, the eldest being nine years of age.
Charles, a brother of .James, who is married to a sister of John
M'Millan, is working at Arthurlie, a place not far from Orillia, where
he receives good wages as engineer at a saw-mill. Charles is getting on
well, and has acquired some land. James expressed himself as being
highly pleased with Canada, and thinks he never could have attained to
the same independent position if he had remained at home. After coming
out, as soon as he had earned some money, he remitted enough to carry
out his father and mother, who are both since dead. His parents were not
desirous to come; and James, when he sent home the money to pay their
passage, had said that if they were unwilling to come he would return
and remain with them, but his brother, who was anxious to get to Canada,
concealed this part of the letter from the old folks, so that they all
went out, and the old man, after getting settled there, told James that
he was very much pleased they had come. James thinks it an excellent
country for any intelligent sober working-man who is willing to work and
turn his hand to anything which he can find to do.
TUESDAY, 23RD AUGUST,
1870.—This morning was dull, and a cloud of fog or Scotch mist covered
the lake and prevented me from seeing anything in the neighbourhood of
Belle Ewart; but we started from the quay on the arrival of the railway
train from Toronto, and proceeded across Lake Simcoe to Beaverton. The
fog, however, by the time we left the quay, had become a dense drizzling
rain, so that we saw no land, and the drizzle increased to heavy rain
before, and when we reached Beaverton, which was not till near one
o'clock. I had some conversation with James Jamieson on the passage, and
learned from him that there are a great many Islay men in and near
Beaverton; and he mentioned that Duncan M'Nab, the son of Andrew M'Nab
from Ballyhatrican, keeps an inn, The Revere House, in the town, and
that I was sure to see others of the Islay people there. ,James spoke in
very strong terms of the advantages which working-men have in Canada, as
compared with Islay, in bettering their position and acquiring
independence, and especially of those who have a family being able to
get the whole employed at good wages or settled on land in their own
neighbourhood, and alluded to his own circumstances as good evidence
that he never could have been so well off, had he remained at home. The
heavy rain and mist prevented me from seeing anything of the scenery on
the lake, and I was pleased when we approached the landing at Beaverton
and got safely ashore in the heavy rain which was falling at the time. I
entered, by James Livingston's advice, the omnibus from the Hamilton
House Hotel, which was in waiting, and proceeded to the village, at a
distance of less than a mile from the quay. After engaging my room, I
wandered forth to see the place, under shelter of my umbrella, and very
soon saw The Revere House, owned by M'Nab, at a short distance on the
opposite side of the street. I entered to inquire for the landlord, and
happened to address M'Nab himself, as I met him at the bar. He received
me very kindly, and, after introducing me to his wife, I was invited to
go upstairs to a private room, and that he would let the Islay people
know of my arrival. I was only a few minutes seated listening to M'Nab's
report of his own position and that of his family, and the way in which
he had been employed since he came. His first work was on board a
steamer on Lake Ontario, where, by attention and intelligence, he soon
rose to the command of a vessel plying on Lakes Ontario and Superior. He
saved part of his wages while a working hand; and when he got to be
captain he received 150 dollars a month, and saved more, and thus soon
acquired wealth sufficient to enable him to buy and pay for 200 acres of
land, and for the house he now occupies as The Revere House Hotel, which
is now worth much more than when he bought it; and when I spoke to him
of the undesirable nature of his present employment, especially with
reference to the upbringing of his family, he told me that he has in
view to sell the house and turn to some other occupation. He spoke very
strongly of the advantage which emigration to Canada had been to,
himself and to all his father's family, and assured me that this was the
feeling universally prevailing among the people from Islay; and that
although the old people sometimes express a preference for home, they as
frequently express a grateful feeling for the incident in their lot
which constrained them to come to this country. Before he had finished
the interesting narrative of the doings of himself and family, he
observed some men working at a waggon in front of his house, and went
down to tell them of my arrival. The first who came in was Peter M'Cuaig,
a nephew of Archibald M'Nab, Kintra. Peter attended school in Port-Ellen
while residing at Kintra, and afterwards was working for me, under Mr.
Scott, at Port-Ellen. He inquired very kindly for his relatives, and for
Mr. Scott and Mr. Ross, to both of whom he expressed a sense of his
obligation. He came out in 1857, and is now settled in the township of
Thorah, on the banks of Lake Simcoe, and began his career by working for
wages, having soon after purchased 50 acres of land, which is now mostly
cleared, and he has it well stocked with a pair of good horses and some
cows and calves. Since he bought the farm he has married Anne
Carmichael, whose parents were from Lurabus, and has a son six months
old. He said he is much pleased that he came to Canada, and is satisfied
with the progress he has made. My next visitor was a son of Duncan
Graham, who, with his wife and three of a family, came out from
Ballyhatrican in 1863, and came direct to Lindsay per railway. James
Graham, the youngest son, my informant, having obtained immediate
employment with a cousin, who had been out for some years previous, on a
farm in the township of Thorah, while the father and mother lived with a
brother of the mother's, who had married a sister of the father's. In
this case also the young folks are gratified that they came to Canada. I
cannot give particulars of every one I saw, nor even their inquiries and
messages to friends; but I may state a few of whom the particulars noted
were written down at the time. Archibald Campbell, cartwright., from
Lurabus, came out about sixteen years since with his brother William,
and has been working for some years past in Beaverton at his trade as a
waggon maker, after having worked at farming for some time after his
arrival. He is now getting on well at his trade, and has acquired a good
property in the town, having a fine orchard, which affords an ample
supply of fruits for family use. His wife died this year (Ann Mathieson).
She was a daughter of J. Matheson, who perished in a snowstorm at Proaig.
He has six children, all at home, the eldest being employed in a store
in Beaverton; there are two boys and four girls. He prefers Canada very
much to Islay, as work is plenty and food cheap; the work being highly
paid now, though not so good when he came here.
Donald and Malcolm Smith,
with their mother and two sisters, came out in 1863, and for a few years
all worked for wages; but they have since got a farm of 100 acres at a
rent of 60 dollars per annum, which they have now got well stocked with
five horses, five cows, and four young beasts, and nineteen sheep, and
are now working most of it under the plough, and are doing well, and
highly satisfied that they came to Canada, as they can soon buy land and
attain an independence.
Duncan M'Dou gall, from
Grasdale, with his other brothers and a sister, came out in 1831 or
1832, and have long been settled in the township of Thorah, and have 700
acres among them, while Duncan, in addition, has other property.
John Campbell, from
Lurabus, a cousin of Mrs. Calder, Port-Ellen, came out about twenty
years since, and is now settled in Thorah, but has a farm of 100 acres
in the township of Brock, which he has let, and gets a rent for, from an
Irishman. He lives here now, as his only son is in the United States
(Michigan) working for wages. He wishes me to tell Mrs. Calder that his
mother is still living, though confined to bed, and lives with him on
what he can earn for wages and the rent he gets for his farm. He has two
daughters married; one of them to an Englishman, the other top Sinclair,
an Islay man, whose parents came from Mullindry, and who is a
blacksmith, and has a smith's shop, and is doing well.
Alexander Calder, whose
father, Donald Calder, came out from the Oa about fifty to fifty-five
years since to North Carolina, and then came to Canada. Alexander
resided at Fayetteville, N.C., for ten years, and then followed his
parents to Canada, and has been resident in Beaverton for forty years
past. The father and mother, who are still living with their family,
acquired land here when the township of Thorah was first opened up.
Alexander is married to a daughter of Donald M'Nab, who was formerly in
Lurabus. She is his second wife, and has a family of a boy and four
girls, the eldest about twelve years of age. He has one boy by his first
marriage. He owns 120 acres near this town and 100 acres about a mile
further off, and is in comfortable circumstances; having no thought of
the old country, though he likes to hear of it and to see any one who,
like myself, knows his relatives and friends. When he came here there
was no cleared land around Beaverton.
Angus M'Dougall, from
Grasdale, a cousin of the M'I)ougalls who are at present resident in
Grasdale, came out about forty years since with his parents when he was
about nine years old. His father and mother acquired land and settled in
Thorah, and continued to reside in the same place till their death,
about a year past. Angus is married, and has a family of eleven
children, all living. He has three brothers, all settled on the same
clearing, which is more than 600 acres in extent, and they are all well
off and amply provided for.
The foregoing may be
taken as specimens of the reports which I received here; and as the day
continued wet I was obliged to give up the thought of visiting any of
the farms in the neighbourhood, or proceeding to Woodville, where the
Rev. John M'Tavish resides; and, in consequence, I passed the most of
the afternoon in conversation with my numerous visitors who thronged the
room, whether at D. M'Nab's or at the hotel where I lived and slept.
BEAVERTON, WEDNESDAY,
24Th AUGUST, 1870.—After an early breakfast I went to Mr. M'Nab's to
ascertain whether he thought he could that day convey me to Woodville;
and as it still rained, I was glad to learn that he thought the rain was
likely to cease, and that the weather would clear up, so that we might
in some comfort make the journey. His prediction was verified about an
hour after; and we set off on his waggon, drawn by an excellent pair of
well-bred horses, which conveyed us quickly over the very wet and muddy
uneven road till we came near to the farm of Donald M'Nab, formerly
tenant of Lurabus, and my old neighbour when I was in Cornabus, when we
turned off the direct road for the purpose of enabling me to call and
see Donald on my way to Woodville. Donald came out in 1846, and settled
with his family near Beaverton, and in the house which he now occupies,
surrounding which he has 200 acres of land, part of which is held by his
son Cohn, about one-half of the whole being now cleared from timber. His
son John and his wife live with him. John's wife was a daughter of
M'Arthur's, who was in Tocmal. They have seven horses, twenty cows, and
thirty sheep, and about forty acres under crop, besides a large quantity
of hay. One of Donald's daughters is married to Mr. A. Calder,
Beaverton, already referred to; another is married to one Brown in this
district; and the other sons are all employed in various parts in this
district. John has six children—four boys and two girls. Cohn has been
married three times, and has a very numerous family. As we approached I
saw the old man working in the garden near the house, and dismounted for
the purpose of meeting him as he left his work to give us welcome. At
first he did not recognize me, but did so as soon as I spoke, and gave
me a most hearty welcome. I accompanied him to the house, where T saw
his son's wife and some of her children, and sat for half-an-hour
chatting over matters with the old man; and I was glad to learn that,
notwithstanding losses which lie had sustained from becoming surety for
a son, he was still very comfortable and very contented with the measure
of success which he had attained in Canada, and pleased for the sake of
his family that he came here when he did. He is now 83 years of age, but
was very hale and strong-looking for his years. After leaving Donald, my
companion pointed out the residence of several Islay settlers as we
passed along, and gave me at same time some idea of the success which
they had secured in their different places. We reached Woodville before
one o'clock afternoon; and M'Nab drove direct to Mr. M'Tavish's manse,
whom I was glad to meet, and to find him and his family all well.
Intending to return with
Mr. M'Nab to Beaverton, I had left my bag; but Mr. M'T. urged me to
remain all night, and to take a drive with him to see some of the Islay
people in Orillia and ilaripossa; and, after seeing Mr. M'Nab and
arranging with him, I finally agreed to remain, and we soon after had
dinner, which, when finished, was the preliminary for a drive of some
miles from Woodville, along a road the whole of which, on both sides,
was mostly settled by Islay people. I wished to get as far as the
residence of old William Gilchrist, formerly mason in Port-Ellen; but
the evening soon closed upon us, and, as Mr. M'Tavish had announced that
he would be present at a prayer-meeting held that evening in the
locality, we were obliged to return without seeing William. Mr. M'T.,
however, was kind enough to send a message by a neighbour, telling
William that I was to sleep all night at the manse, and that he might
come and see me the following morning. On the way I had seen and
conversed with a number of settlers from Islay; and their account of
their circumstances was generally very pleasing, as they all spoke
cheerfully of the abundance of all the necessaries of life which they
possessed, in contrast with their straitened means at home.
On our return to the
manse I was advised that I should remain, rather than accompany Mr.
M'Tavish to the meeting; and, after tea, I walked into the village, and
called at the shop of John Jamieson, who came out from Lagavullin some
years since, and now keeps a store here, and is doing well. He suggested
that I should call on some other of the neighbours, which I did in his
company; and I was no sooner seated in the snug, wellftirnished room,
than several of the people came in— among others, a sister of the late
Ronald Hunter's, who was married to Campbell, a mason from Port-Ellen,
who came out here some years since, but is since dead; and his widow,
whom I saw, now lives here with her family, who are doing well. We were
shortly after joined by Mr. Morrison, M.P. for the County, who came to
see me, as lie had visited Islay some years since for the purpose of
seeing the Oa, where he was brought up, and of which lie had some
recollection. At that time he was living with the Rev. Mr. Dewar, and
had been a fellow- passenger with inc on board of the steamer going to
Islay. Mrs. Campbell made numerous inquiries for her old neighbours and
friends in Port-Ellen, and especially for Mrs. William Calder and her
sisters, and for Flora; and, as she appeared much interested in the
Calders, I gave her a small photograph of the cottage which I received
before leaving home, and in which the likeness of Flora was introduced
as part of the picture, and she seemed very much gratified by the gift.
After a short time passed
in general conversation about Islay and emigration, in which all joined,
and appeared to agree that the removal of a great proportion of the
people was not only necessary, but an advantage to those who remove, Mr.
Morrison expressed a desire that I should visit his house and see his
wife, which I did, and was there introduced to a son of Mr. White, late
Preceptor of Hutcheson's Hospital, Glasgow; the young man having been
sent to Canada by his father on account of his dissipated habits, which,
I fear, are not wholly changed for the better. Later in the evening we
were joined by Mrs. M'Tavish, who had come to seek me for the purpose of
getting me to visit Mr. Morrison's house, in which she found me sitting
in a crowded room. I declined the offer of any refreshment, and returned
to the manse to supper with Mrs. M'Tavish, and spent all hour or two
pleasantly in converse with Mr. M'T., who had then returned.
THURSDAY, 25TH AUGUST,
1870.—Breakfast was early at the manse; and Mr. M'Tavish had arranged
that we should proceed to Beaverton immediately after, that I might be
able there to join the steamer "Emily May" on her way to Orillia, and
from thence through Oro to Barrie, where there is a station of the
Northern Railway, by which I might get either to Collingwood, or back to
Toronfo, as I might deem best.
We got to Beaverton in
good time, but I found that some shirts which I had left to be washed
were not forthcoming; and, as I did not wish to leave without them, I
waited on till after the waggons with the mail and passengers had left
the hotel, and Mr. M'Tavish again put his waggon in order, and we set
out together to seek after the washerwoman who had the shirts. We soon
got to her dwelling; and, as the steamer was nigh, I bundled the shirts,
wet and undressed, into my bag, and drove off to the pier, where we
found the steamer just landing her passengers from Belle Ewart. I had
previously said good-bye to Mr. M'Nab and my other friends at Beaverton;
and, having parted from Mr. M'Tavish, I joined the "Emily May," and was
shortly after on my way to Orillia. The day was fine, and I had a good
opportunity of seeing Lake Simncoe, the banks of which, being all
clothed with timber, and nearly all on a level plain, present few
features that attract attention. There are several islands on the lake,
on some of which there are parties of Indians engaged in trapping
animals for the sake of the skins, of which they dispose in the towns,
selling them to the merchants for the best price they can get. We
reached the north end of Lake Simcoe in less, I think, than two hours;
but the narrow sound at the north, over which the public road is carried
by a drawbridge, we found blocked by a tug steamer, which was towing
through a huge raft of wood for the purpose of conveying it to the
lumber mills at Belle Ewart, on the western shore of the lake, at the
point where I had embarked when on my way to Beaverton. This obstruction
caused considerable delay; and the "Emily May," in consequence, turned
in and moored at Arthurlie, where there are also large mills for lumber,
and remained there until the raft was clear of the narrow channel, when
we proceeded, and shortly after landed at Orillia. Mr. M'Ta'vish had
given me a letter of introduction to the Rev. Mr. Gray, the Presbyterian
minister at Orillia; and I left my luggage at the hotel and set off at
once to seek Mr. Gray, so that I might learn from him where and how I
should best find out the people from Islay, who have settled in the
township of Oro. I soon reached Mr. Gray's residence; and, with a view
to my getting to Barrie on the evening of the following day, he advised
that I should take a conveyance the same evening from Orillia, and drive
to the manse of the Rev. Mr. Ferguson, in whose church the most of the
Islay people assemble for worship, as Mr. F. could tell me their
circumstances and convey me to their homes better than any one could do
who might be sent from Orillia.. To facilitate my movements, he at once
accompanied me to the keeper of a horse, and arranged with him to bring
a 'buggie" to a house in the town, where he wished me to visit and take
tea. He agreed, also to give me a letter of introduction to Mr.
Ferguson; assuring me, at the same time, that he would be glad to see
me, and to do anything in his power to forward my object.
The house to which I went
for tea was that of a relative of Mr. Gray's; and I passed a pleasant
hour in conversation with those present about emigration, and the
prospects of poor emigrants who are landed in this country penniless in
so great numbers. Mr. was present, he having just come from the Muskoka
Territory, to which many poor settlers have been induced to go by the
offer of free grants of land from the Government of the Province, which
is anxious to encourage the settlement of the territory as speedily as
possible. Mr.------ had acquired a considerable extent of land there,
and had been residing there for some years; but he proposes now to sell
his land and settle elsewhere. He spoke more favourably of the districts
than any other person I met; and, when I quoted his opinion, I was told
that he praised merely from a desire to get settlers located there, as
such would enhance the selling price of his own land. I cannot judge
what ground there is for this allegation of partiality; but, as I was
told by several persons whom I met, casually, that the Muskoka Territory
is much broken up by rocks and crags, and is, to great extent, incapable
of cultivation, I should not be disposed to recommend new settlers to go
there without further inquiry. After tea I had a pleasant ride to Mr.
Ferguson's, so far as the evening was concerned; but the roads here, as
elsewhere, are not what we should think of at home as suitable for
spring carriages of any kind. Mr. and Mrs. F. received me kindly, and
agreed to put me up for the night; and, after some time spent in
conversation, I went to bed, but not to sleep, as the bed was very soft
and the night very hot.
FRIDAY, 26TH AuGUST,
1870.—Immediately after breakfast Mr. F------. prepared his waggon or
buggie, and we set out on our way through Oro; the first house we called
at being a public-house, not far from the manse, kept by -------
Galbraith, who went from Assabus, in the Oa, many years since, and has
now land here, and keeps this little wayside inn. Galbraith himself was
not at home; but we saw a niece of his, who had just arrived as we
approached the house, and Mr. F. explained to her that I had called to
see her uncle, and that she should tell him on his return to the house,
which she promised to do. Mr. F., as we went along, pointed out several
clearances occupied by Islay men; and, on the roadside, a few miles on,
he accosted one rather advanced in life—Angus Morrison, from Stremnish,
who has 50 acres of land which he got from his brother. His land is free
of debt, and his family decent and industrious; but Morrison's
appearance indicated neither mental nor physical energy, nor the type of
industry in his habits. Not far from Morrison's we came to two farms,
one on each side of the road—the one occupied by Neil Beaten, the other
by Neil Matheson. Both of these men came from Stremnish, 1 think, in
1863. Neil Beaten has 200 acres of land clear of debt, and has fully 40
acres of it clear of timber, and now under grass and crop. His wife and
family are all well, though they had much sickness for some time after
their arrival. He has a good house; two yoke of oxen and two cows, with
followers; and abundance of everything they need. His family consists of
three boys and six girls, one of whom is married to all Islay man. Neil
Matheson has a family of three boys and four girls. Three of the girls
are married to Islay men; and one of his sons, who is married to an
Islay woman, has a farm in Medonta.
Mr. Ferguson got off the
"buggie," and told the heads of both families that I was on the road
waiting I o see them. Beaton and Matheson both came, quickly followed by
their wives, with whom I spoke for some time, Mr. Ferguson occasionally
acting as interpreter. They told me that Donald M'Kay's family, four
girls, are all doing well, and have their farm clear. I was surprised to
find the old people speak so warmly of their love of the country of
their adoption, as they unanimously asked Mr. F. to assure me they are
doing well, and that they are three times better off than they were in
Stremnish. Matheson has his farm rented at five dollars per annum; but
wished me to tell his old neighbours that they are doing well, and
wished me to tell Duncan M'Nab that they have plenty of food and
clothes; and kindly inquiring after John Gilchrist and Donald Smith,
shoemaker, and .John M'Innes, and wished them all to know that they are
well and getting on well. I parted from them much gratified that those
who had left their native place so recently are now so well pleased in
Canada, and so anxious to impress me with an adequate sense of the
advantages they have gained by their removal.
The next place at which
we stopped was a house on the road side, in which Mrs. Andrew M'Nab,
from Toemal, now resides. Her husband came out thirty-four years since;
and his family are all doing well. Mrs. M'Nab had a sister, who, she
understands, is still living at Coilabus; but I could give her no
information. A little further on, Mr. F. mentioned that a house on the
road side, in the midst of a considerable extent of cultivated land, was
occupied by one fr3m Islay; and I got off the car, and, crossing the
fence, was soon at the door, which was open, and, on entering, I found
seated Dugald Carmichael, who was formerly with Mr. Wilson, Laorin. He
came out with his wife and family three years since, and rents the farm
which he now occupies on a lease for four years at a rent of 50 dollars.
Thee are near 40 acres of it under the plough, and he is getting on very
well. The two girls, who were sitting at table at dinner with their
father and mother, were tidy and clean—as was also the house and
table—but looked very delicate, and had recently suffered from some
sickness, but are now getting better. The wife inquired for Mrs. Calder,
Port-Ellen, and for Ann (at The Cottage), and said she is a relative of
Ann's, for whose mother also she made inquiry. Shortly after rejoining
Mr. Ferguson on the road, we met with Neil M'Intyre, son of the former
miller at Kilchoman, who has been here fifteen years, and is doing well.
He has no family; but his mother lives with him. We met also Duncan
M'Dougal, son of Archibald M'Dougal, who came to Canada about forty
years since, and is now living here. His mother was named M'Arthur, from
Oa. M'Dougal said he has a farm of 50 acres, and is doing very well. At
a short distance from the place where we had stopped to speak to
M'Intyre, we came to the farm now occupied by Norman M'Cuaig, who came
to Canada from Glenasdale, Oa, in 1863. Norman was at work in the field
in front of his house, and some of his children, who were near the road,
were called by Mr. Ferguson, who requested them to tell their father and
mother that we wished to speak to them. Both of them were very soon with
us, and greatly delighted by the unexpected appearance of a visitor from
Islay. Norman has a family of four boys and five girls. The eldest girl
is married to a son of John Campbell's, formerly in Lurabus, and they
have two children. Norman's brother, who came out with him from
Glenasdale, is settled on land near Collingwood, and has been getting on
well. Norman occupies land, the owner of which is unknown, and his
family are doing well; 'though I was sorry to learn that the habits in
which Norman sometimes indulged at home continue, and hinder his
progress and prosperity here. His wife, an active- looking, intelligent
woman, spoke cheerfully of the prospects for her family, and made kind
inquiries after all friends at home, not omitting kind reference to my
own family circle, and my own loss in the death of Mrs. Ramsay,
subsequent to their removal from Islay. She mentioned with much
gratitude her recollection of receiving a sovereign from Mr. Stein when
she was on the quay at Port-Ellen, before leaving Islay. They have heard
occasionally of Islay; but had previously seen no visitor to Canada, nor
received any direct news. I think she said she was a M'Taggart, from
Giol; and inquired for the Killean tenants, and all their old
neighbours.
On the side of the same
road, and immediately opposite to Norman M'Cuaig's, stands the house of
Archibald M'Cuaig, who left Coilabus (Oa) in 1862, with his family of
twelve young children. I regretted to learn from the M'Cuaig's, his
neighbours, that Archibald was not at home; but they told me that the
land he occupies is his own, and that he and all his family are doing
well, and have an ample supply of the necessaries of life, in greater
comfort than they ever had at home; some of the young ones being absent
working for wages.
After parting from the
M'Cuaig's, we drove on till we came to the residence of Alexander
Campbell, a carpenter, who came out from Lurabus in 1831. His mother,
who is still living, is an elder sister of Alexander and Duncan M'Cuaig,
Port-Ellen, and is, therefore, their nephew. Alexander has one son,
George, a fine-looking young man, whom I saw, and he has two daughters,
one of them married to a lowland Scotchman, who is settled in Oro in
their neighbourhood; the other, married to a Scotchman named Brown, from
near Biggar, in Lanarkshire, and who is now in business in Barrie, as a
nursery and seedsman. Alexander has 100 acres in his own hand, besides
other property. His garden is a very good one, the vegetation most
luxuriant; I was interested to hear from Alexander a narrative of their
trials on their first arrival in this country. He, with his
brothers—Archibald and Angus - and their mother and father, in all,
eight of a family, left Lochindaal, on the 16th July, 1831, and landed
at Quebec, on the 16th September following, having been nine weeks on
board ship. After landing at Quebec, they ascended the St. Lawrence to a
place not far from Montreal, where, in conjunction with other seven or
eight families, they built a boat, on board of which they proceeded
westward by the St. Lawrence to Lake Ontario, and landed near Toronto,
when they put their boat on a waggon, and dragged it across the country
for 36 miles to Lake Simcoe, from which they again landed near Barrie,
or rather about six miles from the site which Barrie now occupies, as
there were no houses there at that time. They bought their 100 acres of
land from a half-pay officer, who had received a grant of 1,000 acres on
the banks of the lake; but there were neither roads nor houses, and they
had to commence their operations on the unbroken forest. They worked for
some years, after fixing their location, on the vessels trading on the
lakes; but the brothers have all been now settled for many years on
farms of their own in this district, which, from the settlement of
themselves and others, natives of the Oa, has come to be known as the Oa,
after the name of their native parish. From each member of the family I
received a hearty welcome, and was hospitably entertained, as they did
everything they could to make me comfortable; and when Mr. Ferguson
explained that he would prefer to return home, and that they should send
me on, they very promptly agreed to do so. The appearance of their
farms, and the buildings, and fine crops, with their stock of cattle and
horses, gave good evidence of the comfort and independence which they
have attained, even if I had not been informed of their wealth from
others, as well as from their own lips. The garden around time house was
filled with a great variety
of vegetables, and some
vines were trained near the paling on a part best exposed to the sun.
Mr. C. has a number of different vines, and is trying to raise a variety
suited to their climate, which may, ripen its fruit in the open air. It
appears that the vine has been found indigenous on the banks of Lake
Erie, and he infers that any native plant may be matured and improved by
cultivation. I was pleased to see that the settlers generally are
planting extensive orchards, and if Mr. C. should succeed as well with
vines, as he has with the apples in his orchard, he will have good cause
to be satisfied, as the trees were heavily laden with a crop of
apparently very fine fruit. After some hours passed in hearing reports
of Islay people in the district, whom I was unable to visit, I left the
snug dwelling on a waggon drawn by a fine pair of horses. It was seated
for four, and Alexander himself sat with me on the back seat, while his
son George acted as driver, and we proceeded on the road for Barrio.
They agreed to take me to the farm of Henry M'Cuaig, from Stremnish, but
they wished also that I should see their mother; and so on our way we
called at her house, but found that she was at church this being kept as
what. they call "Good Friday," or what we at home would style the "Fast-
Day" of the parish. We met, however, the two brothers —Archibald and
Angus—who seemed both glad to meet me, though I found here, and
elsewhere, that a rumour of my intention to visit Canada had prepared
them for meeting me, in consequence of my having mentioned my thoughts
of making the voyage at the public meeting in Port-Ellen. Archibald and
Angus both got on to the front seat of the waggon beside George, their
nephew, and we drove to the church that I might see their mother after
its dismissal, and any other Islay folks who might be in attendance. On
reaching the building, we had not
long to wait, when the
congregation came out, and were proceeding homewards, when my friends
got their mother and sister, and I answered the old lady's inquiries for
her friends as best I could. She was looking hale and hearty, and active
and stout, for her years. At Alexander's house I met Donald Gilchrist,
who at one time kept the New Inn at Port-Ellen, but has now acquired a
farm, and been settled here for some years— his mother, and the rest of
the family, having came with him from Ballychatrican, and he wished me
to let their old friends know that his mother is well, and that all the
rest of the family are well, and doing well. At the church I met a
daughter of old Angus Gilchrist, who came out from Craigabus, about
thirteen years since, and who is married to a farmer in Oro, named
Colquhoun, who came from Campbeltown, and is now well off. I saw also
her brother, William Gilchrist, who was working on his farm as we passed
along; he was much pleased to see me, and expressed himself as much
pleased with his present position. After conversing with several others,
we drove from the church on to Harry M'Cuaig's, whom we found in the
fields near to his dwelling. The crops were very good; he dug some
potatoes, which appeared to be of good quality, and were very abundant.
I was pleased here to observe a young orchard, planted, as I was
assured, with the best varieties of fruit trees; and when I entered the
tidy dwelling, I could not but remark on the baking which the wife had
just completed, as some fifteen or sixteen loaves were laid out on the
table to cool, before being laid past. Harry himself said, "You see"
(pointing to the bread) "Mr. Ramsay, we had none of this at Stremnish,"
to which I replied, that it was doubtful if she would have had the skill
when she was there, to bake the bread, even if they had got the wheat
flour; and I was told that she had learned to bake since her arrival in
Canada. After leaving Harry's, we drove quickly on to Barrie, where we
arrived before dark; and as George was anxious I would go to his
sister's house, I agreed to do so, and the old man and I sat and chatted
with his daughter, Mrs. Brown, while George went off and put up the
horses to rest and feed; but they soon after left to return home, and I
remained as the guest for the night of Mr. and Mrs. Brown. So far as I
had opportunity of judging, I was very much pleased with the simple
Christian character of this young couple—they had only been married a
few months. Mrs. Brown had previously taught a school, but seemed to
attend to her husband's business in his shop or store with as much
attention as if she had been trained to it all her life, while her house
was in all respects clean and tidy. I shall be deceived if they are not
happy as man and wife. Any wife at home, in the same circumstances,
would have had one servant, if not two; but here they help themselves,
and it seems better that they should.
SATURDAY, 27TH AUGUST,
1870.-Mr. and Mrs. Brown were early astir, and we got our breakfast over
by eight o'clock; and as I had my choice of potatoes or porridge, I
preferred the oatmeal, and as I had had no supper, was ready to enjoy
the porridge and milk, which latter was very good, and the former also
of fine quality. We had not well finished, when a cousin of Mrs. Brown's
called to ask that I would take a drive with him for an hour in his "buggie,"
to see Barrie, and its vicinity, to which I readily assented; and we
soon after drove off to the west of the town, by the road leading to the
new railway station, at which the cars leave the main line, and side off
to Barrio. The morning was very fine, and the view of Lake Simcoe was
pleasing, while my young companion was able to point out to me
satisfactory evidence of the recent rapid growth of Barrio, in which he
takes a warm interest, as he is now appointed as agent here for a bank,
the business of which he expects will increase very rapidly under his
care. This youth is a son of one of the Campbell's from Lurabus, with
whom I was yesterday. When a boy he lost one of his feet from having got
entangled in a thrashing mill; this accident led his father to send him
to a bank office in Toronto as a clerk, and from that office he had been
advanced to his present charge. He seems. a fine, active, energetic
young man, and I trust he may please his employers by successful prudent
management. His features are not so handsome and open as those of his
cousin George, who was yesterday the driver of his father's waggon, but
both of them are fine- looking young men, good specimens of native
Canadians. As George has not had much intercourse with other districts,
even in Canada, I endeavoured to persuade him to visit Scotland, and to
see his friends, and the system of agriculture practised in our
better-cultivated districts, and I promised to do everything I could to
forward these objects, if he would let me know when he comes. As he is
unmarried, his father seemed willing that he should come, as he might
not so well get away if he once had a family; and I suggested that he
might also get a wife when in Scotland. of which the father evidently
approved, on the ground that American ladies are too fastidious. Shortly
after my return from my drive with young Campbell, I parted from my
friends, Mr. and Mrs. Brown, as well as other Islay residents, who had
that morning come to Barrie, as it was the market-day. Among these were
several of my neighbours from the Oa; two of the sons of Donald M'Nab
from Lurabus, who are settled in this neighbourhood, one of them a
tailor, a quiet-looking decent man; the other I fear not so well doing,
and whose adventures in trade or in store-keeping had caused the old man
to suffer considerable losses—he had become security in some way for the
transactions of this imprudent son. Any information I could pick up had
led me to resolve that I would proceed to Stayner Station that day, and
try to get the length of Bowmore, a town so named, at some distance to
the west, and there obtain such information as I could regarding
settlers from Islay located in that neighbourhood. The train was late in
reaching Stayner; and immediately on arrival I proceeded through the
village in search of one Mr. Hill, a tailor, who I was told could give
me every information about Islay people, as he was himself an emigrant
from Islay, and had long been settled there. I soon found Mr. Hill's
shop, and speedily learned from him that I was unable to reach Bowmore
in time to see any residents there, and return that afternoon in time to
join the train for Toronto the same evening; and he suggested that I
should rather take a drive and see some Islay men who are settled not so
far from the station. While we were speaking on the subject of my
movements, a young man, who had observed me from the inner apartment of
the shop, came forward, and addressed me by name; and, although I did
not at first recognise him, I found on inquiry that he had been a
teacher in the Flat of Gruinart, Islay, when I paid the teacher's salary
there; his name and character must be well known to the Rev. Mr.
Cameron, who engaged him. I can now recollect Mr. Peter M'Eachern,
though I have but little recollection as to his character or
attainments. He is now, however, settled as a teacher near Stayner. It
appears he is a second cousin of Ronald M'Donald's, who, if I recollect
aright, he said is working with Mr. Scott at Port-Ellen. Old M'Eachern
was a blacksmith at Conispy. Keir, the innkeeper and wright, at Bowmore,
is married to a cousin of Mr. Hill's, at Stayner, and Mr. H. wished me
to let him know that he is well, and getting on well; has two boys
living, the others are
dead, and that Stayner is his Post- Office. He came out twenty-three
years since. I invited Mr. M'Eachem to be my companion for my drive, to
which he agreed very gladly; and in a few minutes after we were on our
way in a "buggie" which I hired in the village. In passing through the
street we stopped to speak to a man named M'Dougal, from Port-Ellen, who
inquired for Mrs. Donald M'Dougall, innkeeper, and their family, and
others in Port-Ellen; but as I had little time I drove on, in the hope
of seeing him on my return. We had only travelled about four miles, and
put back for the purpose of making some calls at houses occupied by
Islay men, which we had passed on the roadside. The first we came to was
Dugald Carmichael, blacksmith, from Bridgend, who came out twenty-eight
years since, and continues to keep up his smithy and work at his trade;
but he has also a farm, containing 300 acres of good land, and is doing
well, being much pleased that he came out, as he thinks that he never
could have done so well at home. I next drove off the road a little way
to call at the house of Alexander Currie, whe came out in 1831, and was
fourteen weeks on the passage. He has been in this township (Nottawasaga)
for twenty-nine years past, settled on the land which he now occupies,
which extends to 250 acres, of very fine quality, having now as much
cleared of timber as he intends to cut down. He has a fine orchard, and
the crops of wheat and oats looked very good. His wife is also from
Islay; her name is Hayman, and she has an aunt at Islay House married to
Neil Orr. M'Eachern told me that Currie has means besides his farm, and
is very well off; and M'E. expressed himself as much pleased that he
himself had left Islay. On our way we had to leave other houses
unvisited, and on the roadside, at the point where it turns to go to
Currie's from Stayner, M'E. pointed out to me a wayside inn and waggon
makers' shops belonging
to a nephew of old Mrs. M'Gregor, who kept the little public-house at
Emerycornast, and who, if he would but keep sober, would soon acquire
wealth. After getting some dinner hastily at the inn, I parted with Mr.
Hill, and walked to the station in company with Mr. M'Eachern. On our
way, I observed a signboard having "Neil Campbell" very conspicuously
displayed on it, and I crossed the road to ask whether Neil was from
Islay, and on telling Mr. M'E. my object he told me that he was. On
entering the shop, Neil was entering from the other side, carrying a
tray covered with sponge cake and other fancy bread, which he had
brought from the bakehouse to be ready for sale. Neil had worked as a
baker in Bowmore, and came here about seven years since, and is married
to a niece of Peter M'Eachern's, the pilot of the "Islay" steamer, to
whom both Neil and his wife desired to be remembered; and Neil wished me
to tell John Currie, Bowmore, that he is now well, and doing very well.
His shop was very clean, and had a thriving appearance. My companion
pointed out several farms in Nottawasaga, occupied by brothers named
M'Arthur from Cairndonachy; and he told me that Roderick M'Eachern, a
brother of Peter, the "Islay" pilot, lives in Stayner, and works at his
trade as a tailor. After parting with Neil Campbell and his wife, I got
on to the cars, and was soon on my way to Toronto, having resolved to
return there and spend the Sunday, rather than go to Coiling- wood; the
report of the inns there being unfavourable, and I hoped to receive
letters from home. I reached Toronto about 9 p.m., and was very soon
after in bed.
SUNDAY, 28TH AUGUST,
1870.—In the forenoon I attended Knox Church, and in the afternoon I
called at the residence of the Hon. George Brown, and passed the evening
very pleasantly in conversation with him and his wife, about the country
and its condition as regards its moral and material interests. Mr. Brown
kindly furnished me with a letter of introduction to a gentleman
resident at Owen Sound, as I had resolved to leave for that place on the
following morning at seven o'clock. This letter proved to be of little
use, as the person addressed, I found afterwards, was then in Europe,
but it was little needed.
MONDAY, 29TH AUGUST,
1870.—We reached Collingwood about half-past twelve noon, but, there was
no steamer, though I had been informed that if the regular vessel, the
"Frances Smith," was not ready, I should find the "Wabuno" waiting to
convey passengers to Owen Sound. Happily, however, about two o'clock, I
saw a steamer in the distance coming towards Collingwood, along the
Georgian Bay, and on arrival, she proved to be the "Frances Smith," and
by four o'clock we were under way, and making progress to Owen Sound. We
touched at Meaford by the way, but were not long detained, and before
ten o'clock at night I was safely Iddged in Coulson's Hotel. On the
voyage I had made inquiry to ascertain whether any of the hands were
from Islay, and I found that one of them, named M'Leod, was steersman,
and I soon tried to see him. He was, however, occupied with his work
until we were near the place; but, in the short time we had, I found his
name was M'Cuaig (not M'Leod); that he came out from Glenasdale with the
rest of the family, some thirteen years since, and is a nephew of Dugald
M'Cuaig, labourer, who still lives about Craigabus. He inquired after
Dugald, and other old friends, but I was unable to give much
information. He directed me, however, how I should best reach Neil
Gilchrist, and some other old neighbours whom I wished to see, and as
this was all I required, I went soon to bed to prepare for my journey
the following day.
TUESDAY, 30TH AUGUST,
1870.—This morning, before I had finished dressing, my room dour was
assailed by the waiter knocking and telling me that Mr. Black had come
to call for, and wished to see me. On opening my door I was pleased to
see a fine young sailor ready to welcome mc, and evidently much pleased
to do so. The "Wabuno," oil of which vessel young Black is the mate, had
arrived at Owen Sound during the night, and M'Cuaig had at once
proceeded to tell Black of my arrival, and hence my early visit; as the
"Wahuno" was to leave for ports further north as soon as her cargo and
fuel was got on board. After we had answered mutual inquiries, I
accompanied him to the house and workshop of James \l'Kerrel, son of
Archibald M'Kerrel, Port-Ellen, whom we saw, and was pleased to learn
that he is doing well. I saw also two of his girls—very neat and clean.
M'K.told us that his brother William resides oil farm, about four miles
distant, but as it is in a direction opposite to that where Neil
Gilchrist and William Black are located, 1 resolved not to go and see
William M'Kerrel, but to rest satisfied with the very satisfactory
report of his prosperity which I received from the others. Young Black
was anxious to accompany me on my journey, but I persuaded him not to
think of such a thing, though he assured me be did not value his place,
as he thought he would be more profitably employed by woricing at home,
but that his wages furnished ready cash to supply any wants, lie spoke
very warmly of the advantages they had gained by coming to Canada; and
said that though his father in winter sometimes expresses a wish that he
had never left the old country, yet that in summer he is always well
pleased for the sake of his family, adding—"You see, Sir, every one of
us can get on well here if we only will it, and be steady and pay
attention." The failure to succeed of any who have come to Canada from
Islay, he attributes exclusively to their own lack of either steadiness
or a will to work. He told me that A. M'Cuaig, or M'Leod, to whom I have
already referred, the steersman on board the "Frances Smith," is a son
of D. M'Cuaig's, who came out from Glenasdale about thirteen years
since. His father has acquired land iii the neighbourhood, and he and
his family are doing well. On inquiring for Sandy Kerr (Janet's
brother), I was told that he is steersman on board the "Algoma," a
steamer which plies on Lake Huron, and goes also, I think, to Lake
Superior. Mave Kerr is at Egremoiit, so far off my way that I cannot see
her without a day's travel. After leaving James M'Kerrel's, I
accompanied William Black to the "Wabuno," and saw him resume his
charge, and I returned to the inn to get breakfast, and then start for
my journey to Southampton, taking a detour for the purpose of seeing
Neil Gilchrist and William Black on my journey. I was fairly on the road
about nine o'clock, and though the road was rough, we reached Neil's
before twelve noon. His Sons were busily engaged housing their wheat
crop, which was of good quality, and I found Neil, with his staff in his
hand, resting at the end of the barn, looking at the young men at their
work. I did not expect that he would remember me; but I had no, sooner
spoken to him than he grasped my hand with a hearty welcome, and led me
off towards the house, where I was, if possible, still more warmly
received by his wife. Neil sent off a boy to William Black to intimate
my arrival, so that William might come and give me his news before
setting out on my journey to Southampton. I had wished also to see
Robert M'Nab, William's son-in- law, but as Robert lived at a greater
distance, it was thought that my time was not sufficient to enable him
to come and join our party. I had not been very long seated when the
young men came in for dinner, before which the table had been neatly
covered with a pure clean table cloth, and I joined them to an abundant
supply of good mutton and delicious potatoes, on which I feasted most
luxuriously; here, and at Dugald Carmichael's, I have seen and tasted
the finest potatoes I met with in Canada; they were a dark reddish blue
coloured variety, and reminded me of what we were wont to call
Perthshire reds, though more in colour like the pink eyes, but without
any part white. I had a very prolonged conversation in the family circle
after dinner, answering their varied enquiries about places and persons,
and discussing the comparative advantages of life in Canada and at home
for persons of their own class. I found that Neil and his wife have
indulged a lingering regret for their old haunts, but the young men
spoke very warmly against any such idea, as they felt they could never
have got on at home, and would have been compelled to leave their
parents if they had not come as one party to Canada. Neil, indeed, said
that they had of late years found that they were getting on better than
at home, but that they had to endure many hardships after their first
arrival, as there were then no roads, and no part of the land which they
settled on, and which they still occupy, was then cleared. The land
which Neil has acquired appears to be of very good quality, and yields a
good return of all kinds of crop. In this respect he appears to have
tested it too severely, as he pointed out some fields on which white
crop had been sown without manure for thirteen consecutive years. The
heap of manure which, in consequence, has accumulated near the barn
where the cattle and horses are housed in winter has now become as great
in size as the buildings themselves. The farm on which Neil lives
extends to 100 acres, but he has acquired other lands in the County of
Bruce. He has on his farm three horses, ten head of cattle, and above
twenty sheep, and his land would now sell for 11per1zap. 3,000 dc liars;
2,000 could be got for it at any time." About sixty acres of it are
cleared, and his public and local taxes and rates amount to about 10
dollars per annum. James Gilchrist, the Postmaster at Keady, the nucleus
of a town where there is a Post Office, is nearly related to Neil, and
directed inc to Neil's house. James also is from Islay, likes the
country, and is getting on well in the store which he keeps at Keady;
this office being about twelve miles distant from Owen Sound, and Neil's
residence being about one mile further on. Neil's son and his son in-
law, whom I met on this occasion, but especially his son, was
fine-looking, and apparently strong and well fitted for rough country
work. The young man (the son) had been till lately working on a farm of
his own in the township of Bruce; but one of his sisters having got
married, who had previously been at home, he had let his own farm and
come here to live with and cheer his parents; his other brother, who has
a farm also in Bruce, having got married. I advised Neil to send the
young man home next summer, that he also might get a wife from among his
own people and see the old country again, as it is long since he came
out, and was then very young. Neither the old man nor the young one
seemed averse to the proposed visit, though the son demurred to the
wife-taking as an obligation for the journey. In his case, as in that of
young George Campbell of the Oa, to whore I have alluded, I was much
pleased with his handsome appearance, and fine, frank, manly bearing. By
the time we had discussed all these matters, old William Black arrived,
and for a short time longer I was engaged in answering William's
inquiries, so far as I could, about his old friends and neighbours in
Islay. William is not much changed, but had walked from his own farm,
and was looking very fresh and well. I told him of his son's kind
attention to me at Owen
Sound, and his desire to
have come with me, and it is evident has comfort at any rate in having a
son of fine disposition and excellent character. It was pleasing to hear
Neil and William discuss the subject of emigration, and the manner in
which they spoke of the sentimental repugnance to removals which is so
often expressed home. Both were agreed that if they had thought only of
themselves, they might, in the circumstances in which they were placed,
have been as comfortable, or more comfortable, at home than here; but
they felt that, if the welfare of their family was to be considered,
there were many advantages in having come to Canada, especially in the
fact that they were able to settle within reach, and that thus the
parents have the pleasure of having them all around them, which they
believed they could not have had at home. Neil and William were both
aware that I had assisted several families to come to Canada; but they
assured me that every settler described himself as having been well off
at home, and that I should be unable to find any family in Canada who
had either been assisted to come, or who had been removed from their
holdings at home, against their will. This remark I found verified in
my. experience elsewhere; and it affords a pleasing illustration of the
way in which we so readily ignore the sufferings and hardships of days
that are gone, and dwell only on the difficulties and annoyances of the
present hour. In company with my old neighbours the time passed very
pleasantly, as their conversation was peculiarly interesting, as, having
known them both, I felt that I could rely better on their statements
than I could on those of others with whose character I was less
acquainted, and I was glad, therefore, to elicit details regarding
either their own position or that of their neighbours, whom I had known
at home. The general import of all they said has been already indicated,
and it may be summarized by stating that, in their opinion, any working,
industrious man with a family who is diligent, sober, and attentive to
his duties, does enjoy advantages here which are not open to the
working-man at home. The emigration from Britain of the idle and
dissipated is no advantage but a loss to the colony, and no gain to the
individuals, who had better remain at home. They seemed also to feel
that old men or young unmarried tradesmen gain little by going to
Canada, as, although wages are higher, so also is the cost of living and
clothes, in towns where such persons would usually seek work; but the
rural labourer, or small farmer with a family, able and willing to work,
can at all time find employment, and may soon, from their wages, acquire
sufficient means to enable them to buy and settle on laud of their own.
This latter more encouraging view applies also to masons, carpenters,
bricklayers, or plasterers, where the individuals have any aptitude for
varied employment. As for clerks and storekeepers, there seems little to
encourage young men of this class, unless they are willing to apply
their strength to out-door manual labour. Any number of females,
acquainted with house or farm work, can get employment, but trained
domestic servants are about as well off at home, except in cases where
their families settle in Canada, and in such they are sure to get plenty
of remunerative employment if they are not needed at home. I had at last
to order the horse to be put in the waggon, and as "Sambo," who acted as
my postillion, had dined, I parted with my old friends, getting a kindly
blessing from the old lady at parting, as well as from Neil and William.
Both accompanied me to the public road, where the waggon had been left,
and on the way Neil said, "Well, Mr. B., after all I have been saying, I
wish you to understand that I feel I have acted rightly in coming here,
however willing you might have been to give me more land. You could not
make land; you could not eject others to please me. I could not have
wished you to do it, and therefore I could not have had my family
settled near me as they all are here; and I feel in my old age that this
is so great a comfort that it more than compensates for any
inconvenience I have suffered, either from our long winter or the
hardships we endured when we first settled here, and for some years past
we have really been very comfortable, and have now ample means." William
Black, who heard this little speech, immediately added, as we walked
slowly towards the waggon, "Mr. R., Neil has just expressed my own
feelings. Sometimes in winter, when I am annoyed with the severe cold, I
say to the young folks that I would prefer to live at home, even on one
meal a-day than to live here on the most abundant and richest fare; but,
after all, when I think how comfortably and how well my family and we
all are getting on, I really know that, instead of grumbling, I should
be grateful for the numerous blessings we enjoy." I expressed the
pleasure which I felt on hearing such opinions, dictated in part
possibly by a desire to relieve me from any feeling that they had
suffered by emigration; but doubtless on the whole they expressed their
unbiassed view of their position, as both the one and the other had
means sufficient to enable them to go home and to live comfortably all
their days if they had wished so to do. With many kind messages to all
my own circle, to Mr. Ross, Mr. M'Herg, and others, I parted from them
with regret, as I had a desire to remain longer if it had been in my
power. At Keady I saw James Gilchrist, and got quickly on to
Southampton, a distance of 24 miles from Neil's, which I reached about
seven in the evening, and I set out immediately to seek for Alexander
Sinclair (a son of Neil Sinclair, formerly tailor in Bowmore). I soon
found his shop, but learned from the young storekeeper, who is a native
of Colonsay, that Sinclair was then absent drilling the local company of
Volunteers, of which he is the captain, and would soon return. 1 left
the shop in order to get some supper at the little inn where I had put
up the waggon; and on my return I found Mrs. Sinclair, to whom I
explained my desire to see her husband, in order to ascertain from him
how I should best get to Kincardine, as the steamer which plies between
Southampton and Goderich had not then arrived, and I was anxious to get
on next morning early, as I did not learn that that there were any Islay
settlers near Southampton. Mr. Sinclair himself came in as we were
engaged in discussing my movements, and very kindly entered into my
plans, but urged that I should remain for a day, and that he would
accompany me to his father, who would be very glad to see me, and to
hear of the old country from the lips of one he knew, who had recently
arrived in Canada. I thought of acting on his advice; but my time was
then so far gone that I was constrained to give up the idea, and
resolved to start next morning for Kincardine, where I expected to be
able to get accurate information as to how I should best reach the Rev.
Mr. Grant. Sinclair advised me not to think of the steamer, but to go by
the stage which leaves at 6 a.m., and would reach Kincardine about noon.
I assented to this proposal, and passed an hour or two conversing with
Sinclair and a neighbour of his named Currie, from Bowmore. Currie came
out upwards of thirty years since, and has been in this district all the
time. When he came first there was no road between Sungeen (now called
Southampton) and Owen Sound, but he had to make his way through the
forest, as he best could, by the help of the compass. There are now more
than one passable road—one of them very good, by which the mail waggon
travels. Sinclair has land near the town, which he farms, and his father
has a good farm about seven miles off, and they have all done very well
since they came, as he has a brother who keeps a store at Walkertown,
about thirty miles distant--- a thriving and large town. The one I saw
is well off, and spoke of himself as if he had acquired greater wealth
than any other of his family. After a glass of toddy at the inn, I
parted from him, and went off to rest for the night.
WEDNESDAY, 31ST AUGUST,
1870.—I was astir this morning before six, and found little hesitation
in getting out of bed, as, although having slept close to an open
window, the beat had hindered my repose, and I was pleased when I heard
the mail stage drive up to the inn door, and I was asked to join it,
that we might proceed on the journey. On the road here, as elsewhere,
one meets with nothing but the same unvarying alternation of clearance
and bush or primitive forest, which is the characteristic feature in
American travelling. I got breakfast at a wayside inn, about half-way to
Kincardine, and reached the town itself about half-past twelve noon. Mr.
M'Endrick lives immediately opposite, and is Postmaster, and I entered
his door just as the bags were handed in. His brother, who is married to
a daughter of the late Duncan M'Allister, Bridgemid, had left for Europe
some time previously, but had kindly asked his brother to give me any
aid and entertainment in his power, as Cohn hay had written announcing
my intended visit. Mr. M'E. received me kindly, and introduced me to his
wife, who sat and chatted so long as her husband was engaged assorting
the letters which had arrived by the mail. He soon joined us, and
advised that I should call and see the Rev. Mr. Fraser, who would be
able to tell me whether Mr. Grant was at home; and, after agreeing to
take some dinner which she would prepare during our absence, we started
off to see Mr. Fraser, and happily found him at home, and able to assure
me that I should find Mr. Grant at home. He directed me how to find his
dwelling; and, after some conversation with Mr. F. regarding the
Highland emigrants from Tyree and other insular districts who are
settled near, I went off with Mr. M'E. to hire a "buggie" to convey me
to Mr. Grant. Mr. Fraser is anxious that some Scottish low-country
farmers should be induced to settle among the islesmen, to set an
example of better farming and greater industry. They are too apt to rest
satisfied with the ample supply which the fertile soils yield without
the use of skill or much labour; and as they are quiet, inoffensive, and
moral, he desires that they should be led to aim to improve their
circumstances more, and so elevate their condition. They have plenty of
food and clothing, and therewith they rest content. I was pleased to
hear they had so much. I promised, in the event of my return to
Kincardine, that I would call again for Mr. F. and hear a further
exposition of his views; but, as I did not return, I lost this
advantage. On our arrival at Mr. M'E.'s dwelling, I got my
tidily-served, comfortable luncheon, and soon thereafter was on my way
to Ashfield just before sunset—the road for the latter part of the way
being very bad indeed. Mr. G.'s manse has been erected in the centre of
a small clearing on the side of the concession road, and occupies as
lonely and isolated a place as any I saw in the course of all my
wanderings. There is no cultivated ground near it—nothing but fine
timber on the four sides of a cleared space, not more than three or four
acres in extent; and as the tall trees, by the time I arrived, cut off
the sun's rays from the dwelling, it looked lonely and deserted indeed.
The house itself has been raised on timber piles about two feet above
the surface of the ground. A rugged, broken-down "buggie" was lying
near, and I made my way through the stumps to the door, rather fearing
that the interior of the dwelling would correspond with the desolation
which appeared to reign outside. Two fine children appeared as I was on
my way, but I could elicit no reply from them, and while I knocked at
the door, was pleased to hear Mrs. Grant's voice within. I had not long
to wait when I was ushered in by a young man, a son of Mr. Grant, and
the room I entered, which looked clean and tidy, though the furniture
was scant, dispelled my fears of internal discomfort. Mr. Grant soon
made appearance; and as the evening was about to close, and I thought it
might not be convenient with his large family that I should remain all
night, I at once proposed that he should make ready to accompany me to a
wayside inn, where we might stay all night, and where we could discuss
my further progress and learn his views. Ile at once agreed to this
arrangement, and I then bade good-bye to his wife and the young folks,
and we set out on our return to Widow M'Pherson's, where I should get
supper and a bed. We had to walk part of the way, and Mr. Grant seemed
very much to enjoy the opportunity of recalling many past scenes. He
continues to be exactly what he was, in word and action, twenty years
since, and active as ever, so far as I could judge. I was much pleased
to meet him and see him so well, and to hear of his family getting on so
nicely on the whole. The young man I saw, indeed, had tried
store-keeping and found it unprofitable; but though he lost some money
and somewhat involved his father, he was able to pay his debts and to
retire without loss to others. They are hopeful that he may still
succeed in some other sphere. Mrs. Grant, though she would not be deemed
by strangers a model wife, seems exactly suited to her husband's habits,
taste, and wants, and he spoke of her in terms of affectionate regard,
which could not be other than sincere. He has one daughter married, who
has one child, so that he is now a grandfather, and he seemed much
pleased with the thought. After our arrival at the inn, I allowed my "buggie"
and driver to return to Kincardine, as Mr. Grant assured me that he
would, next day, find a conveyance to carry me on to Goderich, and would
accompany me, and remain till he should see me in the cars on my way to
Toronto. We passed a very pleasant evening; some sad retrospective
glances at past events being mingled with occasional mirth, when past
scenes of joy were recalled; and, before going to bed, after some hours
of constant talk, I gladly bowed the knee and united with him in prayer
for a blessing from on high for friends near and dear and on our past
and present lot. |
