Having heard at Glammis that the Clova Gathering was
to take place next day, and being anxious to witness the games
there, we resolved to join another party in runing a conveyance,
that we might be there in good time. The distance is about
twenty-one miles. The morning was cold, but otherwise fine. We had a
smart phaeton and pair of horses all to ourselves till we reached
Kirriemuir, about four miles. Here we had to tarry nearly an hour,
as our fellow-travellers, all of the fair sex excepting one, had to
busk themselves for the occasion, and as we made our appearance
while some of them were in bed.
The Clova Gathering is a grand annual event, and
occasions a holiday in Kimenrair and all that district. This is a
very large manufacturing village, and, if it continues to progress
as of late Sirs, it may soon aspire to be called a town, there is
here a splendid school-house, the offspring of a munificent bequest,
where the blessings of an excellent education are easily accessible
to all. Where new buildings have been erected, due attention is paid
to appearance and sanitary laws; but the old streets are remarkably
narrow, angular, and confused, so that driving through them is
anything but a sinecure. After meeting much civility at the house
where our fair friends were preparing for slaughter, and partaking
of their kindly proffered morning cup, we started for Clova.
Carriages of various descriptions crowded the road, which gradually
became more Highland, till in many places we had to turn out, for
safety to ourselves and ease to the horses.
This is the country of the Ogilvies, whose magnates
possess several fine mansions along the South Esk, up which we had
now to proceed for many miles. This river, with its tributary the
Prosen, were in fine trim for the angler, and are celebrated for
their trout. Near their junction, we left the braes of Angus, and
fairly entered the Grampians, among which we had resolved to
perambulate for the succeeding fortnight. The kilt was now the
prevailing garb, but more dress, and in compliment to the
occasion, than as the customary attire, as a manufacturing
population is more partial to weaving the philabeg than wearing it.
Chi passing a few cottages, a pretty numerous band of plaided and
kilted Celts were drawn up in military style, and as the carriages
drove past we were treated with some fine airs by an excellent band.
The Generalissimo of this troop was a personage of no ordinary
pretensions. He was a portly gentleman, arrayed in a complete
military dress, such as was worn by officers of distinction in the
times of the Covenanters. A prodigious cocked hat and feathers
adorned a head completely bald, and his boots, which came far above
his knee, were of such enormous width, that walking in them would
have been wholly impracticable. He was mounted on a handsome grey
pony, which at first shied considerably at its grotesque burden, but
afterwards behaved with becoming decorum. This gentleman was the
hero of the day, attracting universal admiration, and, though
consenting to make somewhat of a ludicrous exhibition for the
occasion, we were told that he was by no means destitute of
education or intelligence; that there was a method in his freak, as
it might lead to favour in high quarters, he being a tenant of the
gentleman who principally patronises this Gathering.
As we proceeded, the road became more and more
crowded, till at length we reached the completely Highland and
interesting church and village of Clova. Like most of these
villages, it is of a very straggling character, scarcely any two
houses being placed together in a similar exposure. There is a
tolerable inn; but on this occasion it would have been ten times
over filled to suffocation, so that all the houses in the clachan,
besides several spacious tents, were crammed with such as had come
from a distance, and were clamorous for breakfast. In such a
scramble it was every man for himself. After considerable patience,
and not a little coaxing, I got a plentiful repast in a comer of the
kitchen; and it was well I was so lucky, for it so happened that I
was destined to eat no more till breakfast next morning.
As the games were not to commence till noon, many
strayed in all directions. While my friend went fishing, I, among
many others, climbed the hill, at the base of which the village is
situated, to visit Loch Brandy, from which issues a stream,
rejoicing in the same exhilarating name. They who breakfasted and
started early reached said loch, but the bagpipe and other musical
instruments recalled the greater number of us before we were
gratified with a view of it, which, from its position among lofty
rocky eminences, must be well worth seeing. As we descended, the
scene below was of a truly lively and interesting description. The
Celts, having been marshalled in marching order, filed off, headed
by die band, and that martial leader formerly noticed, who ever and
anon returned, with all the grace and dignity of a Wellington, the
salutes with which he was greeted.
The scene of action was about a mile from the
village, where there was a fine level field duly prepared for the
sports of the day. A considerable portion of it was enclosed with
ropes, to prevent the multitude from crowding in upon the
competitors, and there was a wooden stage for the accommodation of
the dancers. On this, in the first instance, the aristocracy, male
and female, were comfortably seated, when not induced to retire to
their carriages by the slight showers which occasionally fell during
the exhibition. Among these were Ogilvies innumerable, of both
sexes, Lord Grlammis, &c. &c. Not a few. tourists were obviously
prowling about among the crowd, while we were all kept in due
subordination by the presence of a corps of rural police. The vale
of the Esk i$ here particularly romantic. The mountains are lofty
and precipitous, and, farther up, the narrow strath seems nearly
shut in by almost perpendicnlar rocks, its remoter recesses being
concealed by the windings of the glen. The main source of the Esk is
a small loch of the same name, in a district so wild and rugged as
very seldom to be visited by any but devoted anglers.
The games consisted of those commonly practised on
such occasions—throwing the heavy and light hammer, short and long
race, putting the stone, tossing the caber. After this came dancing,
and the whole was wound up by a sack-race. The short race seemed
about 300 yards, and was well contested by three competitors. The
long one, to the top of a steep hill about a mile off, was the
reverse. Nine started, all of whom, excepting three, soon gave in,
having sacrificed their wind and strength to a display at the
outset. At the winning post, it was evident that the two who reached
it had agreed to make it a job; as, when yet a good way from the
top, they seemed to be walking hand in hand. On returning they
declared it was a drawn match! the first instance of a drawn
8teepU-cha8e that I ever heard of. In throwing the hammer, there was
no wheeling round, as used to be the custom, and by means of which
it may be thrown considerably farther. The objections to this
practice are substantial. By not wheeling, the competitors foot the
mark more accurately, and victory is often^ decided by a few inches.
Besides, in wheeling, the hammer frequently takes an unpremeditated
direction, thus endangering the lives of the lieges. The
putting-stone seemed too heavy for the display of much science. It
was 28 lbs. weight, and, of course, this prize could only be won by
a very tall and strong man. Had there been also a lighter stone, 18
lbs. or so, very probably the man who gained the prize for the other
would have been worsted by activity and science. Tossing the caber
had nearly foiled all the competitors, only one man having succeeded
in turning it cleanly over, and he only once after many trials. The
caber is a pole about fifteen feet long, five or six inches in
diameter at the heavy end. It is poised in front on the two hands,
and the object is to make it throw a somersault, or complete
evolution, over the heavy end of the pole. The reels were pretty
well danced, but the dancers being all kilted, display a savage
appearance. The sword-dance was the most worth seeing. Two
broadswords are laid across each other, and the dancer, rafter
gracefully bowing to them, dances over and around them in all
directions, snapping his fingers, and carefully avoiding coming in
contact with his partners, which would be reckoned clumsy, or, in
French style, a betise. The tune universally played to this
favourite dance is "Gillie Callum", simple and peculiar; but
admirably adapted for aiding the dancer in his varied, difficult,
and somewhat hazardous evolutions. The sack-race was the most
amusing of the whole. He who tumbles very seldom wins the race, if
there is one man who can keep his feet, however slow his progress.
This closed the field sports for the day. In the evening, there was
to be a grand ball in a building seemingly erected for such
entertainments; but of this I can give no account, as we had
adventures of a different kind to encounter. |