Some years ago, I sent you, in three letters, an
account of "Three Days in Arran.” It may be remembered by some of
your readers, that, on the first of these, I was benighted in Glen
Rosa, after visiting Goatfell and Glen Sannox, and that upon that
occasion I got many severe falls and bruises, owing to the roughness
of the ground and the darkness of the night. Having occasion to be
in the same most interesting island last week for one night, I
resolved, before breakfast next morning, to explore the scene of my
former adventures; and having been informed that the communications
above alluded to were read with considerable interest, I hope the
present may be so also.
I left Mrs Jamieson’s inn betwixt five and six
o’clock, and, owing to misdirection, or, more probably, my own
blunder, I kept the Goatfell side of the glen (which is neither so
direct nor comfortable as the other), till I reached the quarter
where mv jeopardy began, about four miles above the village of
Brodick. At this place, there is nearly an end to all vegetable
productions) with the exception of occasional tufts of heather. I
crossed the stream at the upper end of a pool, over which hang the
birch and mountain ash, but of such stunted dimensions as to
indicate their expiring effort. The pool itself is one of the most
tempting to the bather I ever saw, especially on such a morning as
was the 3d of July. It is of considerable length and depth, fenced
by a perpendicular wall of granite, ten or twelve feet high, and
paved with the same substance. At the upper end is a cascade; and
the water was as cool and limpid as can be conceived. After
indulging in the luxuries <of the bath, I ascended the sharp rocky
ridge in a direct line between Goatfell and Ben-Oosh, and was amply
recompensed for my exertions. From this ridge, which may be about
1800 feet above the sea-level, you command a full view of the more
lofty peaks in the island, comprehending, besides those that have
significant Gaelic designations, many "huge nameless rocks,”
particularly arresting the attention of the pedestrian. Immediately
around you, are Ben-Oosh, Caimnacaillach, Kier-Vohr, Goatfell, &c.
These exhibit, when viewed in certain directions, the most fantastic
shapes imaginable. Some of the masses of granite resemble prodigious
waggons, or hay-stacks; others seem sharp as needles, and rise in
regular succession, like the teeth of a saw, or the comb of a cock.
Immediately beside and under me, lay a huge excavation, fenced by
nearly perpendicular cliffs, much resembling the crater oi an
extinct volcano, which I greatly regretted I had not time minutely
to explore. The whole scene presented itself under the most
favourable circumstances, and was one which I shall never forget.
Though Goatfell is confessedly the highest point in
the island, there are others, especially one at the head of Glen
Sannox, and on the opposite side of the chasm, which cannot be more
than a hundred feet lower, if so much. Upon approaching the island,
indeed, from Glasgow by water, this latter point, even to an
experienced eye, seems the higher of the two, though in almost every
other direction where they are both seen Goatfell maintains the
superiority. There is something pre-eminently imposing and dignified
in the summit of this latter mountain, as seen from the position I
have just been describing. The middle portions are rugged and
broken, like all the surrounding eminences ; but the upper region
rises for eight or nine hundred feet, in, calm and graceful majesty.
You might fancy its resemblance to the "hero of a hundred battles,”
who has survived the tug and havoc of them all, and finally been
elevated to the Peerage. Thus Goatfell, the hero of ten thousand
tempests, rears his bald, majestic head to the clouds, surrounded by
his staff of thunder-split peaks, "towering in horrid nakedness,”
companions Amidst the war of contending elements for numberless
generations. Far from scatheless, however, has been his career of
glory. In some respects, he seems to have had decidedly the worst of
the set-to with old Father Time. His very summit, indeed, consists
of immense blocks of hard imperishable granite; and a little lower
down are seen huge Cyclopian walls of the same material. But the
latter are shaken, as if by some great convulsion; and the whole
surface of the conical top of the mountain is strewed thickly with
riven rocks, stones of all sizes* and granitic sand.
I would earnestly recommend you, sir, and all your
readers who are mountam-fanciers, to repair to the above most
interesting of all our islands, if you have not already been there.
Access to Arran is now most easy. There is a daily steam-packet from
Ardrossan to Brodick and Lamlash, m addition to one from Glasgow,
during the summer months; and thus, for a mere trifle, you can be
transported in the course of a few hours to Brodick, at the very
base of Goatfell. The whole scenery from the Broomielaw is such as
cannot be surpassed —beginning with all that is soft, verdant, and
cultivated, and terminating in Nature’s wildest and sternest aspect
Only be careful to choose favourable weather. Within the last few
weeks, a party left Edinburgh by the railway for Arran—arrived there
in a wonderfully short time—remained in the island a few hours, and
returned at night to the Metropolis; but such was the state of the
weather, that many never left the vessel, while groups were seen
cowering about Brodick under umbrellas, scarcely able to see the
chimneys of the cottages!
At the best, however, such a Cockney expedition is of
questionable celebrity, and would hardly stand the test of
Christopher North’s criticism, lo all who have a sound constitution,
and a few days at their command, I would recommend something
different. In three days, an able-bodied pedestrian may visit, or
see, all that is truly interesting in the island. Let him, on the
first, ascend Glen Rosa, go to the top of Goatfell, pass through the
gorge between Glen Rosa and Glen Sannox (the most interesting point
of all) to Loch Ranza. On the second, let him return by the Cock of
Arran, entrance of Glen Sannox, and the Corrie,to Brodick. On the
third, he should visit Brodick Castle, and go to Lamlash by land,
climb the Holy Isle, retaming at half-past three by the Isle of
Arran steamer to Brodick and Ardrossan. If he has a fourth day, he
could not employ it better than in going to fence’s Caves, on the
opposite side of the island, by the String, and returning by the
pass which leads from the west coast to Lamlash. If a man can
accomplish this with personal ease, in favourable weather, and not
feel the liveliest gratification, he must have something in his
nature little to be envied.
The inhabitants of Arran are primitive in their
character and manners, owing, in a great measure, to the Duke of
Hamilton not permitting feus in the island. In Brodick, may be seen
the old women sitting at their doors, arrayed in flanneltoye, a
species of head-gear now very little in use, and the men lounging
about knitting stockings on wires. All classes have an appearance of
indolence ; and their little gardens, instead of abounding in
pot-herbs, flowers, and fruit-trees, are fall of weeds, and have
every appearance of neglect. They are, however, remarkable for
peaceableness and honesty, so that many will question how far it
would be advisable to introduce among them the habits of civilised
life. They are most fortunate in having the Marquis of Douglas as
their feudal lord, whose German bride takes much delight in her
mountain home. He is now making an addition, on a great scale, to
the castle, and intends to spend more time in the island than has
been customary with his family. A few days previous to my late
visit, he and his princess had added greatly to their popularity by
their presence at gymnastic games, in which they seemed to feel a
lively interest, as well as by their kind and cordial attentions to
all around them. In such circumstances, though many may lament that
Arran is in a great measure shut up from the world, yet none can
blame the proprietor for his resolution to avail himself of it in
that way which tends most to his gratification. |