ON the 1st of March 1811, we took our departure from
the Sandwich Islands; steering direct for Columbia River. The first step
taken, after leaving the land, was to liberate those who had been put in
irons. Poor fellows! they considered themselves particularly unfortunate,
and doubly punished, in not having been partakers of the pleasures which
the others had enjoyed on shore. All our thoughts now tended to one point;
and the hope of soon terminating a long and irksome voyage made us forget
all former misunderstandings, and a few days passed in harmony and
good-fellowship, until the 12th, when the weather becoming squally and
cold, with snow and sleet,
the partners wished to serve out some articles of clothing to the
passengers, who now began to feel very sensibly the change of climate; but
the captain considered the broaching of a bale or box as an encroachment
on his authority, and a violation of ship rules, and therefore steadily
opposed it. This gave rise to bad blood on both sides. The partners swore
they would have such articles as they wanted; the captain swore they
should touch nothing. The dispute went to such a height that pistols were
resorted to, and all, from stem to stern, seemed for a moment involved in
the flame of civil war; but on this, as on a former occasion, Mr. David
Stuart and some others interfering brought about a reconciliation. The
partners desisted; the captain kept his bales and boxes untouched; and the
men froze in the icy rigging of the ship until many of them were obliged
to take to their hammocks.
On the 14th, in lat. 370 N. and long 137° W., a
violent gale came on, which increased almost to a hurricane, and lasted
four days without intermission, during which we were much puzzled in
manoeuvring the ship. She had sprung a leak, but not seriously. Sometimes
we had to let her scud before the wind; sometimes she lay-to; sometimes
under one sail, sometimes under another, labouring greatly; and much
anxiety was felt by all on board. During this storm, almost everything on
deck was carried off or dashed to pieces; all our live stock were either
killed or washed overboard; and so bad was the weather, first with rain,
and then with sleet, hail, frost, and snow, which froze on the rigging as
it fell, that there was no bending either ropes or sails, and the poor
sailors were harassed to death. But bad and harassing as this state of
things was, it proved to be only the beginning of our troubles, and a
prelude to far greater trials. During this gale, we sustained considerable
damage in the sails and rigging, besides the Joss of our live stock, and
other things on board.
On the 22nd of March, we came in sight of land,
which, on a nearer approach, proved to be Cape Disappointment, a
promontory forming the north side of the Great Oregon or Columbia River.
The sight filled every heart with gladness. But the cloudy and stormy
state of the weather prevented us seeing .clearly the mouth of the river;
being then about ten miles from land. The aspect of the coast was wild and
dangerous, and for some time the ship lay-to, until the captain could
satisfy himself that it was the entrance of the river; which he had no
sooner done, than Mr. Fox, the first mate, was ordered to go and examine
the channel on the bar. At half-past one o'clock in the afternoon, Mr. Fox
left the ship, having with him one sailor, a very old Frenchman, and three
Canadian lads, unacquainted with sea service— two of them being carters
from La Chine, and the other a Montreal barber. Mr. Fox objected to such
hands; but the captain refused to change them, adding, that he had none
else to spare. Mr. Fox then represented the impossibility of performing
the business in such weather, and on such a rough sea, even with the best
seamen, adding, that the waves were too high for any boat to live in. The
captain, turning sharply round, said—" Mr. Fox, if you are afraid of
water, you should have remained at Boston." On this Mr. Fox immediately
ordered the boat to be lowered, and the men to embark. If the crew was
bad, the boat was still worse—being scarcely seaworthy, and very small.
While this was going on, the partners, who were all partial to Mr. Fox,
began to sympathize with him, and to intercede with the captain to defer
examining the bar till a favourable change took place in the weather. But
he was deaf to entreaties, stamped, and swore that a combination was
formed to frustrate all his designs. The partners' interference,
therefore, only riveted him the more in his determination, and Mr. Fox was
peremptorily ordered to proceed. He, seeing that the captain was
immoveable, turned to the partners with tears in his eyes, and said—"My
uncle was drowned here not many years ago, and now I am going to lay my
bones with his." He then shook hands with all around him, and bade them
adieu. Stepping into the boat" my friends!" said he; "we will perhaps meet
again in the next world." And the words were prophetic.
The moment the boat pushed off, all hands crowded in
silence to take a last farewell of her. The weather was boisterous, and
the sea rough, so that we often lost sight of the boat before she got 100
yards from the ship; nor had she gone that far before she became utterly
unmanageable, sometimes broaching broadside to the foaming surges, and at
other times almost whirling round like a top, then tossing on the crest of
a huge wave would sink again for a time and disappear altogether. At last
she hoisted the flag; the meaning could not be mistaken; we knew it was a
signal of distress. At this instant all the people crowded round the
captain, and implored him to try and save the boat; but in an angry tone
he ordered about ship, and we saw the ill-fated boat no more.
Mr. Fox was not only, an able officer, but an
experienced seaman, and a great favourite among all classes on board; and
this circumstance, I fear, proved his ruin, for his uniform kindness and
affability to the passengers had from the commencement of the voyage drawn
down upon his head the ill-will of his captain; and his being sent off on
the present perilous and forlorn undertaking, with such awkward and
inexperienced bands, whose language he did not understand, is a proof of
that ill-will.
The mouth of Columbia River is remarkable for its
sand-bars and high surf at all seasons, but more particularly in the
spring and fall, during the equinoctial gales: these sand-bars frequently
shift, the channel of course shifting along with them, which renders the
passage at all times extremely dangerous. The bar, or rather the chain of
sand-banks, over which the huge waves and foaming breakers roll so
awfully, is a league broad, and extends in a white foaming sheet for many
miles, both south and north of the mouth of the river, forming as it were
an impracticable barrier to the entrance, and threatening with instant
destruction everything that comes near it.
The river at its mouth is 4J miles broad, confined
by Cape Disappointment on the north, and Point Adams on the south; the
former is a rocky cliff or promontory, rising about 500 feet above the
level of the water, and covered on the top with a few scattered trees of
stinted growth; the latter a low sandy point, jutting out about 300 yards
into the river, directly opposite to Cape Disappointment: the deep- eat
water is near the Cape, but the channel is both narrow and intricate. The
country is low, and the impervious forests give to the surrounding coast a
wild and gloomy aspect.
After the captain ordered about ship, as already
stated, some angry words passed between himself and Mr. Mumford, the
second officer, which ended in the latter being ordered below. After
passing an anxious night, the return of day only increased the anxiety,
and every mind was filled with gloomy apprehensions. In the course of this
day, Mr. Mumford resumed his duties, and the ship kept beating off and on
till noon, when she cast anchor in fourteen fathoms, about a mile from the
breakers; and the weather becoming calm, Mr. M'Kay, Mr. David Stuart,
myself, and several others, embarking in the long boat, which was well
manned and armed, stood in for the shore, in hopes of being able to effect
a landing. On approaching the bar, the terrific chain of breakers, which
keep rolling one after another in awful succession, completely-
overpowered us with dread; and the fearful suction or current became so
irresistibly great, that, before we were aware of it, the boat was drawn
into them, and became unmanageable: at this instant, Mr. Mumford, who was
at the helm, called out, "Let us turn back, and pull for your lives; pull
hard, or you are all dead men." In turning round, the boat broached
broadside to the surf, and was for some time in imminent danger of being
engulfed or dashed to pieces; and, although every effort was made, we were
for twelve minutes struggling in this perilous situation, between hope and
despair, before we got clear, or the boat obeyed the oars, and yet we were
still two miles from the shore; and, had it not been for the prompt and
determined step taken by Mr. Mumford, the boat and every soul on board of
it must have inevitably perished. Notwithstanding our narrow escape, we
made a second and third attempt, but without success, and then returned to
the ship. The same afternoon, Mr. Mumford was sent more to the south to
seek for a channel, but to no purpose. The charts were again examined, and
every preparation made for next morning.
On the 25th, early in the morning, Mr. Mumford was
again ordered in another direction to go and discover if possible the
proper channel, and ascertain the depth of water. After several trials, in
one or two of which the boat got again entangled in the breakers, and had
a very narrow escape, she at length came into 2½ fathoms of water, and
then returned; but the captain seemed to hint that Mr. Mumford had not
done so much as he might have done, or in other words, he was
dissatisfied; indeed, his mind was not in a state to be satisfied with
anything, not even with himself; but his officers, whatever they did, were
sure to displease.
The captain now called on Mr. Aikens, the third
mate, and ordered him to go and sound in a more northerly direction, and
if he found 3½ fathoms water to hoist a flag as a signal. At three o'clock
in the afternoon, Mr. Aikens, together with the sail- maker, armourer, and
two Sandwich Islanders, embarked in the pinnace, and proceeded to the bar.
As soon as the pinnace hoisted the flag agreed upon, the ship weighed
anchor and stood in for the channel; at the same time the boat, pulling
back from the bar, met the ship about half a mile from the breakers, in
eight fathoms, going in with a gentle sea-breeze, at the rate of three
knots an hour.
As the ship and boat drew near to each other, the
latter steered a little aside to be out of the ship's way, then lay upon
her oars in smooth water, waiting to be taken on board, while the ship
passed on within twenty yards of them in silence; nor did the people in
the boat speak a single word. As soon as the ship had passed, and no
motion made to take the boat on board, every- one appeared thunderstruck,
and Mr. M'Kay was the first that spoke,—"Who," said he, "is going to throw
a rope to the boat?" No one answered; but by this time she had fallen
astern, and began to pull after the ship. Every one now called out, "The
boat, the boat!" The partners, in astonishment, entreated the captain to
take the boat on board, but he coolly replied, "I can give them no
assistance." Mr. Mumford said it would not be the work of a minute. "Back
a sail, throw a rope overboard," cried the partners; the answer was, "No,
I will not endanger the ship." We now felt convinced that the boat and
crew were devoted to destruction—no advice was given them, no assistance
offered, no reasons assigned for risking so cruel a sacrifice of human
life—for the place where the boat met us was entirely free from the
influence of the breakers, and a long way from the bar. It is impossible,
therefore, to account for the cool indifference manifested towards the
fated boat and her crew, unless we suppose that the mind of the captain
was so absorbed in apprehension, and perplexed with anxiety at the danger
which stared him in the face, and which he was about to encounter in a few
minutes, that he could not be brought to give a thought to anything else
but the safety of the ship.
During this time the ship was drawing nearer and
nearer to the breakers, which called our attention from the boat to look
out for our own safety; but she was seen for some time struggling hard to
follow the ship as we entered the breakers, the sight of which was
appalling. On the ship making the first plunge, every countenance looked
dismay; and the sun, at the time just sinking below the horizon, seemed to
say, "Prepare for your last." Mr. Mumford was now ordered to the
mast-head, to point out the channel The water decreasing from 8 to 2
fathoms, she struck tremendously on the second reef or shoal; and the
surges breaking over her stern overwhelmed everything on deck. Every one
who could, sprang aloft, and clung for life to the rigging. The waves at
times broke ten feet high over her, and at other times she was in danger
of foundering: she struck again and again, and, regardless of her helm,
was tossed and whirled in every direction, and became completely
unmanageable. Night now began to spread an impenetrable gloom over the
turbulent deep. Dark, indeed, was that dreadful night. We had got about a
mile into the breakers, and not far from the rocks at the foot of the
Cape, against which the foaming surges wreaked their fury unceasingly. Our
anxiety was still further increased by the wind dying away, and the tide
still ebbing. At this instant, some one called out, "We are all lost, the
chip is among the rocks." A desperate effort was then made to let go the
anchors—two were thrown overboard; the sails kept flapping for some time:
Doe was the danger diminished by learning the fact that the surf dragged
ship, anchors, and all, along with it. But there is a limit to all things:
hour after hour had passed, and terrific was the sight; yet our faithful
bark still defied the elements, until the tide providentially beginning to
flow—just at a time when it appeared as if no earthly power could save us
from a watery grave—brought about our deliverance by carrying the ship
along with it into Baker's Bay, snug within the Cape, where we lay in
safety.
Here are two points for consideration; first, the
time of sounding: and, secondly, the time chosen for entering the
breakers. In respect to both, there wa an unwarrantable precipitation—a
manifest want of sound judgment. We made the land in the middle of a
storm, the channel and coast both unknown to us, and without either pilot
or guide: under such circumstances, it was evident to all that no boat
could live on the water at the time, far less reach the shore; and our
entering the breakers at so late an hour, the sun at the time not being
fifty minutes above the horizon, the channel also being unexplored, was
certainly a premature and forlorn undertaking: but there existed such
disunion—such a spirit of contradiction on board—that the only wonder is
how we ever got so far. But I must now inform the reader what became of
the boat.
In the morning of the 26th, Captain Thorn, Mr..
M'Kay, myself, and a few men, left the ship, to take a view of the coast
from the top of Cape Disappointment, to try if we could learn any tidings
of the • coats. We had not proceeded fifty yards, when we saw Steven
Weeks, the armourer, standing under the shelter of a rock, shivering and
half-dead with cold. Joy for a moment filled our hearts, and running up to
the poor fellow, we inquired for his comrades, but could get no
satisfactory reply; we then brought him to the ship, and, after giving him
some food, resumed our inquiries; but he appeared so overpowered with
grief and vexation, that we could scarcely get a word from him; in short,
he seemed to reproach us bitterly. "You did it purposely," said he, in
great agitation; but after some time, and when we had first told him what
we had suffered, be seemed to come round, as if his feelings were soothed
by the recital of our dangers; and then he related his melancholy tale, in
the following words:-
"'After the ship passed us we pulled hard to follow
her, thinking every moment you would take us on board; but when we saw her
enter the breakers we considered ourselves as lost. We tried to pull back
again, but in vain; for we were drawn into the breakers in spite of all we
could do. We saw the ship make two or three heavy plunges; but just at
this time we ourselves were struck with the boiling surf, and the boat
went reeling in every direction; in an instant a heavy sea swamped
her—poor Mr. Aikens and John Coles were never seen after. As soon as I got
above the surface of the water, I kept tossing about at the mercy of the
waves. While in this state I saw the two Sandwich Islanders struggling
through the surf to get hold of the boat, and being expert swimmers they
succeeded. After long struggles they got her turned upon her keel, bailed
out some of the water, and recovered one of the oars. 1 made several
attempts to get near them, but the weight of my clothes and the rough sea
had almost exhausted me. I could scarcely keep myself above water, and the
Owhyhees were so much occupied about the boat, that they seemed to take no
notice of anything else. In vain I tried to make signs, and to call out;
every effort only sank me more and more. The tide had drawn the boat by
this time out to sea, and almost free of the breakers, when the two
islanders saw me, now supporting myself by a floating oar, and made for
me. The poor fellows tried to haul me into the boat, but their strength
failed them. At last, taking hold of my clothes in their teeth, they
fortunately succeeded. We then stood out to sea as night set in, and a
darker one I never saw. The Owhyhees, overcome with wet and cold, began to
lose hope, and their fortitude forsook them, so that they lay down
despairingly in the boat, nor could I arouse them from their drowsy
stupor. When I saw that I had nothing to expect from them, I set to
sculling the boat myself; and yet it was with much ado I could stand on my
legs. During the night one of the Indians died in despair, and the other
seemed to court death, for he lost all heart, and would not utter a single
word. When the tide began to flow I was roused by the sense of my danger,
for the sound of the breakers grew louder and louder, and I knew if I got
entangled in them in my exhausted state all was lost; I, therefore, set
too with might and main, as a last effort, to keep the boat out to sea,
and at daylight I was within a quarter of a mile of the breakers, and
about double that distance short of the Cape. I paused for a moment, 'What
is to be done?' I said to myself; 'death itself is preferable to this
protracted struggle.' So, turning the head of my boat for shore, I
determined to reach the land or die in the attempt. Providence favoured my
resolution, the breakers seemed to aid in hurrying me out of the watery
element; and the sun had scarcely risen when the boat was thrown up high
and dry on the beach. 1 had much ado to extricate myself from her, and to
drag my benumbed limbs along. On seeing myself once more on dry land, I
sat down and felt a momentary relief; but this was followed by gloomy
reflections. I then got into the boat again, and seeing the poor islander
still alive, but insensible, I hauled him out of the boat, tuid with much
ado carried him to the border of the wood, when covering him with leaves I
left him to die. While gathering the leaves I happened to come upon t
beaten path, which brought me here." Such was Weeks's melancholy story:
himself and the Indian being the only survivors of the last boat, it
follows that eight men in all lost their lives in entering this fatal
river.
In the evening the Sandwich Islander who died in the
boat was interred on the beach where the boat came ashore; the other poor
fellow was carried to the ship, and afterwards recovered.
On the 27th I was appointed to head a party to go in
search of the boat that was lost on the 22nd; but after examining the
coast for upwards of forty miles southwards, not a trace of our missing
friends was discovered, nor did we ever learn any tidings of them.
We had on this occasion a specimen of Chinooke
navigation. While crossing the river in an Indian canoe, on our way back
to the ship, we were suddenly overtaken by a storm, and our craft was
upset in the middle of the passage. The expertness of the natives in their
favourite element was here put to the test. At this time we were upwards
of two miles from the shore, while eight persons unable to swim were
floating in every direction; coats, hats, and everything else adrift, and
all depending on the fidelity of the four Indians who undertook to carry
us over; yet, notwithstanding the roughness of the water, and the wind
blowing a gale at the time, these poor fellows kept swimming about like so
many fishes, righted the canoe, and got us all into her again, while they
themselves staid in the water, with one band on the canoe and the other
paddling. In this manner they supported themselves, tossing to and fro,
till we bailed the water out of our frail craft, and got under weigh
again. Here it was that the Indians showed the skill and dexterity
peculiar to then. The instant the canoe rose on the top of a wave, those
on the windward side darted down their long paddles to the armpits in the
water to prevent her from upsetting; while those on the leeside at the
same moment pulled theirs up, but kept ready as soon as the wave had
passed under her to thrust them down again in a similar manner, and thus
by their alternate movements they kept the canoe steady, so that we got
safe to shore without another upset, and with the loss of only a few
articles of clothing; but we suffered severely from wet and cold.
During this time the Indiana from the village which
we had left, seeing our critical situation, had manned and sent off two
canoes to our assistance, One of the boats from the ship was also
despatched for the same purpose; but all would have proved too late had we
not been fortunate enough of ourselves to weather the storm.
The Indians all the time never lost their presence
of mind. Indeed, it was supposed, from the skilful manner in which they
acted afterwards, that the sordid rascals had upset us wilfully, in order
to claim the merit of having saved us, and therewith a double recompense
for their trip. The boat which had put off to our assistance was upset on
her return to the ship; and had it not been for the two Indian canoes that
followed us, its crew would have all perished.
On the 4th of April the long boat was swamped off
Chinooke Point, when ten persons were saved by Comecomly and his people.
On this occasion, however, many articles of value were lost, so that every
- hour admonished us that we stepped on insecure and slippery ground.
Every succeeding day was marked by some new and alarming disaster; but a
few remarks will now suffice to conclude the account of our voyage, in
which we sailed, according to the ship's log, 21,852 miles.
Captain Thorn was an able and expert seaman; but,
unfortunately, his treatment of the people under his command was strongly
tinctured with cruelty and despotism. He delighted in ruling with a rod of
iron; his officers were treated with harshness, his sailors with cruelty,
and every one else was regarded by him with contempt. With a jealous and
peevish temper, he was easily excited; and the moment he heard the Scotch
Highlanders speak to each other in the Scottish dialect, or the Canadians
in the French language, he was on his high horse, making every one on
board as unhappy as himself; and this brings us down to the period of our
departure from the ship, a period to which we all anxiously looked
forward, and the satisfaction both felt and expressed was universal, when
the general order was read that all the passengers should prepare to land
on the blowing day. |