THE dwelling-houses of Montrose are much older in the
southern part of the town, adjoining the harbour, than in the northern
portion, beyond the New Wynd. The present spacious High Street owes its
width to the removal of a street in 1748 that ran up its centre, from the
Town-Hall to the North Port, and at that time the proprietors of the houses
forming the east and west sides of the present High Street were allowed to
bring their houses 14 feet nearer the street. The following merry ballad was
written on tfce pulling down of the middle row of houses.
Auld Willy Grubb gied round the town,
And rang his merry bell;
And cried, “Ilk man and mither’s son
Take heed to what I tell.”
“Come a* ye masons, wi’ your pikes,
Your hammers and your shools ;
And a' ye wrights, wi' files and saws,
And sic mischievous tools.
“Let Maidie Pert, wha keeps the change,
Upon her lot bethink,
And toom her house o' whisky stoups,
And eke o’ a' the drink.
“And Tam, that keeps the barber's shop,
It’s time that he were ready
To carry off his curling wigs
And his fine tucky lady.
“Let wabsters bear awa' their looms,
And grocers take their guids,
And them that deals in bravity
Remove their silken dnds.
“For I proclaim the Rotten Raw,
I’ the middle of the town,
Is ordered by the magistrates
This day to be cafd down.”
Sae Willy spake, and ilka wight
Cam’ ruinin' forth to see;
I trow it was a merrier day
Than ever yet may be.
Wi’ pike and shool, wi’ axe and saw,
Wi' swinging rope and hammer,
The wrights and masons struck the Raw,
Until the jeasts did stammer.
The roofs were made o’ auld stob thack,
The wa's o’ plastered fir;
So down they came, wi’ mony a whack,
That ruddied wi’ the virr.
The tenants a’ stood round about,
To keep their guids frae skaith;
Though Jamie Spence, the merchant man,
Lost mony a wob o’ claith.
The loons did gather up the strae,
Ilk broken door and rafter,
Though at their heels Rob Davison,
The town’s-keeper, ran after.
And they kindled at the Market Cross
The rubbish in a blaze,
And round the fire they danced and sang,
And roared wi’ blythe hurras.
A greater mob was never seen
Upon a Rood-fair-day;
Nor was there mair o’ fun and sport,
O’ daffin’ noise and play.
Nor when the stalwart Earl o' Marr
Rode to the Sherra Muir;
Sic bonfires on the Murray Street
Were never seen before.
And never on the King’s birth-day
Was witnessed sic a sight,
For round the fires they danced a’ day,
And whisky drank a* night,
A house at the top of Bridge Street, belonging to Mrs
Erskine, has the date of 1688 over a window. In this house, low down, the
members of the Scottish Episcopal Church had wont to hold their meetings.
Only a small number were allowed by law at that time to meet in one room,
but it was so planned that the rooms all opened into one another, and all
that came could divide themselves among the several apartments, so that no
more than the legal number were in one, and, at the same time, all could
hear. A Mr. Brown was then their minister, whose son became the greatest
botanist in Europe. After this restriction was removed they met in a hall in
the Review Office Close, and had for their minister the Kev. Patrick Cushnie,
who is still alive, and so regular in his walks to the country for two or
three hours, sometimes every day, when the weather permits, that you would
scarcely ever fail to meet him, either going or returning, between twelve
and three.
Another old house, opposite St. Paul's Church, has a Latin
inscription over one of its windows, Dominus providelt. A third house,
between Craigo Street and the Shore Wynd, has the date 1682, and initials A.
S. L. W., on a stone over one of its windows. An oak lintel, with I 16 T 77
P, was taken out of an old house in the same property, pulled down last
year, 1864. Another, very much older to appearance, at least more than twice
as old, with a roof and joists of oak, was pulled down at the same time; its
walls were three feet thick, and the doors and windows and other openings
all arched with semicircular arches of freestone.
The Pretender, “Prince Charlie," made his escape from a house
where the Earl of Mar was lodged, on the east side of Castle Street—it is
the second house from Luckie's Wynd, -now Lower Craigo Street—he went down
the close at the back of the house, and aboard of a boat in the river to a
vessel in the bay.
Bailie Scott, who gave me the information about these houses,
was acquainted with two old ladies, Magdalene and Elizabeth Stuart, who
often boasted of having, when girls, danced with Prince Charlie when in
Montrose. Their father was Captain of a vessel, and made twenty one voyages
to Virginia—there was a Company called the Virginia Company which carried on
the slave trade at this port—and their mother got a present of a golden
guinea each voyage from the owners. A jolly old man, John Halket, by trade a
mason, when a boy, along with other two boys, drank “Charlie’s” health from
a pool of water with a mussel shell, for which they were whipped at every
well in the town, and their parents had to hold them while lashed; this was
done by order of the Duke of Cumberland. John Halket was of the same age as
George III., and bore a striking resemblance to the likeness of the King on
the coins of the realm. Gemlo was the other boy’s name, and the name of the
third was no less than that of Mr. Coutts, the eminent London banker, who
left two millions of money. Mr. Coutts was so affronted that he would never
visit the town again, nor do anything for it. John Halket did come back, and
lived to above 100. Gemlo, also, did not forsake the town.
The street, or row of houses above referred to, one house of
which, adjoining the Town-Hall, still remains, terminated about where Sir R.
Peel’s monument now stands. The Jail stood there; the Council- House was on
its north end, with the Montrose Coat of Arms cut on its north gable, from
which a stranger, a sculptor, copied the same, to be seen on the top of the
west side of the Town-Hall. A private house, lately removed, belonging to
the late Miss Hill, was on the south end of the Jail, at the termination of
the street. The New Jail was erected in 1832, and shortly afterwards the old
one was removed. A breach was made in the side of it by a prisoner, who made
his escape, more than 50 years ago. Mr. Bayne had his dancing-school there
regularly for many years, after which Mr. William Beattie had it for a
writing-school, when he first came to the town. The Misses Dougal were Mr.
Bayne's best dancers in those days. I think Miss Eliza was the very best. A
dancing-school ball was at that time, we thought, the grandest display in
the world—the ladies all in white dresses, bespangled and glittering with
beads.
After 1748, when the old street was taken down, it was
proposed to extend the High Street in a straight line to the river. This
noble idea was unfortunately opposed, to the great detriment of the town.
The street on the west side of the middle row was called Murray Street, that
on the east, High Street. The site of Montrose is on an immense mound of
water-worn boulders, mixed with sand, forming a natural dam-dyke, extending
from the Inch Bridge, across the Island of Inch bray ock, then from the
south end of Bridge Street, along Castle Street, the east side of High
Street, along the Mall,1 and through the woods of
Charleton to the Northesk. The kirk and steeple are placed on the highest
portion of this mound; and the gradual rise of the houses from each end of
the town to the centre, as seen from a distance on the northwest side of Ihe
town, has a fine effect.
Montrose has been much improved of late years, particularly
since the Aberdeen, now the Scottish North Eastern, Bail way began, and the
Bervie line will also add much to the trade of the port. The contractors,
belonging to the town, have all got well on, every one of whom has made
large additions to its streets and buildings. In the first place, the late
Mr. Armit built a row of excellent houses in Ferry Street, called Armit’s
Buildings. He also made out a ship-building yard where the Whale Fishing
Company's boil-houses used to be, long used by Duthie and Cochar, and now by
B. Millar & Son, for a wood-yard. Some few years afterwards, Mr. David
Mitchell, contractor, erected a large block of elegant buildings south from
the steeple, where the old Post Office was formerly, and Mr. Trail's house,
and Mr. Mudie’b, a very retired gloomy house, more like a convent than
anything else. Then Mr. Charles Brand has recently built some fine houses
beside the Clydesdale Bank, as well as others near his own work. Mr. Scott
has also improved the appearance of Craigo Street by building a new house
there, in which he resides, as well as others in Castle Street, where a
dismal old dungeon protruded into the street; and it is to be hoped that all
the old saut backets in Castle Street will give place to more substantial
buildings, and better arranged; and this will take place when the condition
of the people becomes more elevated by the appliances brought to bear upon
them. They say a church improves the very locality in its neighbourhood,
both as to buildings and the habits of the people. A good many years ago the
Messrs Japp erected these very genteel houses in Panmure Terrace, as well as
the first row in Union Place, the other to the north of it having been built
by the late Bailie Smith sometime afterwards. The Bailie also built those
very genteel houses on the south side of Union Street, as well as the large
house opposite to them, in which he resided himself for many years.
The Town-Hall was built in 1763, and had another storey put
upon it in 1819, of which John Balfour was builder, besides that addition
made to the back, above the dumb overarched spaces where the letters are put
in, and the stair to the reading-room and library goes up. The Court-Room
was the largest room in the first building, now there is one as large above
it, where the Town Council meet, and where is bung a large full-length
portrait of Sir James Duke, in his robes of office .as Lord Mayor of London,
and presented by himself, being a native of the town; also a portrait of
Provost Charles Barclay, a very popular provost in his time, and a man of a
kind and genial disposition; and one of Provost Burnes, the best public
speaker that Montrose ever produced in his line, and to whom the town is
much indebted; another of Joseph Hume, the champion of reform and
retrenchment. There is also a Reading-room, a Library with 13,000
volumes, a chamber used on the day of election of Councillors, and a most
elegant and handsome Guild-Hall.
Without being too particular in noticing the new buildings by
which the town has been adorned, it may be mentioned that the High Street
has been much improved of late years by the erection of several new houses,
built by some of the banks. The one belonging to the British Linen Company
many years ago was thought to be the finest in the town at the time. The
Bank of Scotland has a large and commodious house at the corner of John
Street, fronting that street and High Street. The Royal Bank of Scotland
built a beautiful house in 1864, and the National Bank another, which was
finished last year, of a very unique and genteel appearance, especially when
the sun casts its rays on the green Venetian blinds; and it is said the
Northern Bank is about to erect another on the west side of the High Street,
which it is to be presumed will not be behind any of the others in
architectural beauty, and most likely will be built of granite. These superb
banking houses, without anything else, show the truth of what is advanced in
the chapter about banks, that these promote industry, activity, and skill as
regards the architects, the builders, and tradesmen employed about them. One
other house, the property of Mr. John Reid, druggist, the building of which
has just been finished, is a perfect model in its way, as it has nothing
heavy about it, and yet lofty and substantial. The shops below are of a new
and improved construction, besides being large and spacious, and having in
connection with them rooms and places behind adapted for carrying on a large
and extensive trade. The metal pillars below are a great improvement, and
give the shop windows a large frontage, and a light and elegant appearance
to the whole. Another shop on the west side has also got metal pillars. It
were much to be desired that other proprietors would follow such an example,
and remove those ugly old houses, which are a disgrace to modern
civilization, and place in their stead nice and airy buildings, which would
bring them in more rent, especially as there is such a demand just now for
house accommodation. In taking down the gable-end of the old house where it
joined to Mr. Young, saddler’s, the stones fell down upon one of the
contractors, Mr. David Balfour, and killed him on the spot. A stranger,
returning to Montrose after a long absence, would be apt to say—
“This is no my ain town,
I ken by the biggin’ ot.”
The town being now brilliantly illuminated with gas, the
shops in the High Street at night present the appearance of one extensive
bazaar. |