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In a series of
autobiographical reminiscences which he dictated in old age to one of his
daughters, Dr. Macleod's father gives, among others, the following amusing
and characteristic pictures of his youth:—
"I received the rudiments
of my education in the Manse of Fiunary from tutors who were hired by my
father from time to time; but we were often for months without any
instruction, except the little we could receive from himself when his
time, which was very much occupied with parish matters, could permit. He
generally spent three or four days of the week on horseback, and always
came home much fatigued; but he usually contrived to give my elder brother
and me a lesson. He seldom shaved above twice in the week, except
something extraordinary came in the way, and it was during the process of
shaving, which generally exceeded an hour, that we were drilled in our
Latin lessons. He was an admirable Latin scholar, and had a great portion
of the Latin classics—Horace, Virgil, and Ovid—committed to memory. He was
very partial to Buchanan's Latin Psalms, a portion of which we generally
read on Sabbbath morning. My father was unfortunate in most of his tutors;
one of them, a monster in temper, came to us from Aberdeen. I shudder at
the recollection of his cruelty. My brother Donald, one of the most
amiable and interesting fellows that ever lived, was an excellent scholar
and superior to his tutor, who, I suppose on that account, formed a
fearful prejudice against him, and chastised him unmercifully, and often
without cause, and that in remote places where there was no one to witness
his conduct. His savage treatment of this dear lad brought on a spitting
of blood, from which he never recovered. I was not a good scholar, and was
much more given to play than to study, yet I received my full share of
flogging! This cruel man had a wonderful power over us, and took solemn
promises from us that we should not tell our parents of his conduct. A
singular circumstance, which deeply impressed me at the time and which I
cannot forget, brought his conduct to light, and caused his dismissal from
my father's family. He asked us to accompany him upon a Saturday to the
house of Killundine, where one of his pupils then lived, and who is almost
the only one of my early companions still alive. We went to Killundine, by
the shore, on the line where the new public road now runs. I was dressed
in a kilt, but had no hose or stockings on. We came to the cave below Lag-gan,
known by the name of 'The Dripping Cave,' which could not be entered but
through a wild jungle of briars, thorns, and nettles. It was said that
this cave was the abode of some wild man of the wood, and that he had
lately been seen at the entrance of it. I admitted to my tutor that I
believed this story; on which he ordered me to pass through this thicket
and enter the cave, in order, as he said, to disabuse my mind of such a
belief in the superstitions of the country. I remonstrated as to my
inability to do so in the dress which I then wore ; but he cut a rod in
the wood, with which he compelled me to proceed. I did so, while all my
feet and legs were torn and bleeding from the effects of the thorns. On
reaching the entrance of the cave, what was my horror on observing the
figure of a tall, old, grey-headed man rising from his bed of straw with a
scarlet night-cap on! But he, hearing my cries and sobs, addressed me in
the kindest manner— naming me, for he recognised me at once. This
dispelled my fear, and I resolved to abide with him in the cave rather
than return to my companion. I told him all that had happened to me. He
roared after the tutor, and vowed vengeance against him. He informed me
that the tutor had taken to his heels in the direction of the Manse. The
good old man carried mo in his arms out of the brushwood, and insisted
that I should go on to Killundine, accompanying me himself a great part of
the way. This venerable man had been unfortunate in his money transactions
as a cattle dealer, and was concealing himself for some time, till an
arrangement should be made with his creditors. I reached the house of
Killundine in a sorrowful plight, where the thorns were extracted from my
limbs, and where I remained for the night. Thus were the cruelties of our
tutor brought to light, his conduct to my brother became known, and he was
dismissed. The only apology that can be found for him was, that he was
labouring under mental disease; he died soon after in the lunatic asylum.
My father continued to give me lessons when his time admitted of it
(especially during shaving times). He followed a practice, which I at the
time abhorred, of making me translate the classics into Gaelic. He himself
had an exquisite taste in the selection of vocables, and thus I became a
good Gaelic scholar.
"In the summer of 1799 the late General Norman Macleod (grandfather to the
present chief) came to the Manse of Morven, on his way to the Isle of
Skye. My father had been for some time tutor to this brave and talented
man, who was a distinguished soldier in the American War, and obtained
great renown afterwards in India during the conflicts with Tippoo Sahib
and other chiefs. He was frequently and severely wounded. Macleod insisted
that my father should allow me to go along with him to Dunvegan; and I was
delighted at the prospect of visiting the place of which I had heard so
many traditionary legends. There were no steamers at that time, and we
took our passage in a small wherry from Oban.
"Macleod was accompanied by Mr. Hector
Macdonald Buchanan, his man of business, and Mr. Campbell of Combie, his
commissioner. We arrived at Loch Bracadale next day after leaving Morven,
where we found horses and carts, with crowds of people waiting our
arrival; we reached the old Castle of Dunvegan, where many of the
gentlemen tacksmen of the Macleod estates were waiting to receive us.
Macleod was welcomed to the castle of his fathers by Captain Donald
MacCrimmon, the representative of the celebrated 'MacCrimmon pipers,' who
had for ages been connected with the family. This Captain MacCrimmon had
acquired his commission, and no small share of renown, with his chief,
during the American War.
"I can never forget the impression which the
whole scene made upon my youthful mind as MacCrimmon struck up 'Failte
Ruairi Mhoir,' the favourite tune of the clan. Dinner was laid in the
great dining-room; the keys of the cellar were procured, and a pipe of
claret was broached, and also a cask of Madeira wine of choice quality,
brought from India by Macleod; the wine was carried up in flagons to the
dining-room, and certainly they were very amply used in the course of the
evening. A bed was provided for me in a small closet off Macleod's room,
and I can never forget the affectionate kindness which my greatly beloved
chief showed me while for three months I remained in his castle. The
number of visitors who came there was great—Maclean of Coll, Grant of
Corrymony, Mr. Grant, the father of Lord Glenelg, Principal Macleod, of
Aberdeen, Colonel Donald Macleod, father to the present St. Kilda, were,
with many others, among the guests. I formed a special regard for Major
Macleod of Ballymeanach, who had been a distinguished officer in the Dutch
wars, and who kindly entertained me with many interesting anecdotes
regarding the warfare in which he had been engaged.
"One circumstance took place at the castle on
this occasion which I think worth recording, especially as I am the, only
person now living who can attest the truth of it. There had been a
traditionary prophecy, couched in Gaelic verse, regarding the family of
Macleod. which, on this occasion, received a most extraordinary fulfilment.
This prophecy I have heard repeated by several persons, and most deeply do
I regret that I did not take a copy of it when I could have got it. The
worthy Mr. Campbell of Knock, in Mull, had a very beautiful version of it,
as also had my father, and so, I think, had likewise Dr. Campbell of
Killninver. Such prophecies were current regarding almost all old families
in the Highlands; the Argyll family were of the number; and there is a
prophecy regarding the Breadalbane family as yet unfulfilled, which I hope
my remain so. The present Marquis of Breadalbane is fully aware of it, as
are many of the connections of the family. Of the Macleod family it was
prophesied at least a hundred years prior to the circumstance which I am
about to relate. "In
the prophecy to which I allude it was foretold, that when Norman, the
third Norman (' Tormaid nan' tri Tormaid '), the son of the hard-boned
English lady ('Mac na mnatha Caoile cruaidh Shassanaich'), would perish by
an accidental death; that when the 'Maidens' of Macleod (certain
well-known rocks on the coast of Macleod's country) became the property of
a Campbell ; when a fox had young ones in one of the turrets of the
Castle, and, particularly, when the Fairy-enchanted banner should be for
the last time exhibited, then the glory of the Macleod family should
depart—a great part of the estate should be sold to others, so that a
small 'curragh,' or boat, would carry all gentlemen of the name of Macleod
across Loch Dunvegan; but that in times far distant another John Breac
should arise, who should redeem those estates, and raise the powers and
honour of the house to a higher pitch than ever. Such in general terms was
the prophecy. And now as to the curious coincidence of its fulfilment.
There was, at that time at Dunvegan, an English smith, with whom I became
a favourite, and who told me, in solemn secrecy, that the iron chest which
contained the 'fairy flag' was to be forced open next morning; that he had
arranged with Mr. Hector Macdonald Buchanan to be there with his tools for
that purpose. "I was
most anxious to be present, and I asked permission to that effect of Mr.
Buchanan, who granted me leave on condition that I should not inform any
one of the name of Macleod that such was intended, and should keep it a
profound secret from the chief. This I promised, and most faithfully acted
on. Next morning we proceeded to the chamber to the East Turret, where was
the iron chest that contained the famous flag, about which there is an
interesting tradition.
"With great violence the smith tore open the
lid of this iron chest; but in doing so a key was found, under part of the
covering, which would have opened the chest, had it been found in time.
There was an inner case, in which was found the flag, enclosed in a wooden
box of strongly scented wood. The flag consisted of a square piece of very
rich silk, with crosses wrought with gold thread, and several elf-spots
stitched with great care on different parts of it.
"On this occasion, the melancholy news of the
death of the young and promising heir of Macleod, reached the castle.
'Norman, the third Norman,' was a lieutenant of H.M.S. the Queen
Charlotte, which was blown up at sea, and he and the rest perished. At the
same time the rocks called 'Macleod's Maidens' were sold, in the course of
that very week, to Angus Campbell of Ensay, and they are still in
possession of his grandson. A fox in possession of a lieutenant Maclean,
residing in the West Turret of the Castle, had young ones, which I
handled, and thus all that was said in the prophecy alluded to was so far
fulfilled, although I am glad the family of my chief still enjoy their
ancestral possessions, and the worst part of the prophecy accordingly
remains unverified. I merely state the facts of the ease as they occurred,
without expressing any opinion whatever as to the nature of these
traditionary legends with which they were connected."
He also gives an account in these
reminiscences of some of his experiences while endeavouring to establish
schools in destitute places in the Hebrides :—
"In the spring of 1824 a contention, carried
on with great party warmth, took place among the leading men in Edinburgh,
about the election of Moderator to the ensuing General Assembly. When
Principal Baird, Dr. Inglis, and others (the leaders of the Moderate party
in the Church) applied to me for my support and influence, I replied that
I could on no account support them as a party, for they had never given me
any support in matters connected with the Highlands, which I had
repeatedly brought under their notice, and they had declined in an
especial manner to assist the efforts which were then being made to obtain
a quarto edition of the Gaelic Scriptures, although it had been repeatedly
brought under their notice ; and that, after explaining to them the
grievance of having only a Bible of so small a text as a 12mo edition,
which no one advanced in life could read, I received for answer from the
leader of that party (on whom I thought I had made some impression as he
walked in his drawing-room before breakfast): 'That is the breakfast bell;
just advise your Highland friends to get spectacles.'
"The subject came under discussion again that
day, and it ended by the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge most
generously coming forward and offering to give us the long wished for
Quarto Volume, to our great joy, and somewhat the annoyance of our
opponents. "Dr.
Stewart of Luss was appointed Convener of the Committee chosen to carry
out the resolution, and no better man for the purpose could be found in
the Church. I and several others were associated with him in the work, and
I did my best to aid him ; but to him belongs the praise for the perfect
manner with which it was executed.
"It was during the sittings of this .Assembly
that I resisted all the applications made to me by Principal Baird to
throw in whatever little influence I possessed in support of the Moderate
interests, unless he and his party would aid us in promoting the education
of the people in the Highlands and Islands, where a melancholy destitution
of the means of education prevailed.
"We got up a public supper, at which all the
members, lay and clerical, from the Highlands, were present. We drew up an
address to the Principal and his friends, in which they were requested to
institute a scheme for the promotion of education in the Highlands and
Isles. "As several
overtures to that effect had been forwarded to the Assembly, and would be
discussed in the course of the following week, when Dr. Inglis was to
bring forward his motion in reference to the India Scheme, the worthy
Principal instantly consented to be chairman in an Educational Scheme for
the Highlands and Islands, but with this condition, that he should not be
asked to speak in the General Assembly. As I was in possession of all the
facts connected with educational destitution in the Highlands, he put into
my hands the "Educational Statistics" by Lord Brougham, which were
voluminous
and valuable. "I at
once agreed to the request made me by the Principal and several of my
Highland friends, that I should bring this matter under the notice of the
General Assembly. I locked myself up for several days, and with great care
prepared the speech I was about to deliver before the General Assembly on
this important subject. When the day fixed for the discussion arrived, the
overtures relating to the Indian Scheme and to the Highland Scheme were
read, when a controversy arose as to the priority to be given to either.
Dr. Cook, of St. Andrew's (the disappointed candidate for the
Moderatorship, but a most deservedly popular leader in the General
Assembly), insisted that the Highland Scheme should be discussed first,
while on the other hand Dr. Inglis and his friends insisted that
preference should be given the Indian Scheme.
"After a lengthened discussion, it was agreed
that I should be first heard. I was accordingly called upon to speak, when
I stated that out of personal respect for Dr. Inglis, who was my senior
and a father of the Church, I should give precedence at once to him,
provided that the Assembly came to no resolution about the Hindoos till it
had heard what we had to say about the Highlanders.
"After the worthy Doctor had concluded his
able speech, I brought forward our case at great length, which was heard
with the most marked attention, and our statements enthusiastically
cheered. Never did any one enter upon the duties he had undertaken with
more enthusiastic ardour and devotion than did our venerable chairman, nor
did his efforts for one moment cease till the hour of his death. I had
great cause for thankfulness that I had been enabled to bring this most
important subject under the notice of the Church.
"It was agreed that the convener of the
Committee for Highland Education, the secretary, and I should visit the
Highlands and Isles early in the course of the following summer. An
application was made to the Treasury for the services of a revenue-cutter,
to convey us. This was very readily granted. Captain Henry Beatson, of the
Swift, was directed to hold himself in readiness to convey us, and to take
in stores for our use; with this latter part of his orders, Captain
Beatson most amply complied, as he took on board at Greenock provisions
that would have served for a voyage to Australia.
"We first visited the Island of Islay, where
we experienced princely hospitality from Walter Campbell, to whom the
island at that time belonged. From Islay we proceeded to Jura ; from
thence to Oban, Lorne, Appin, and Lismore; there we waited upon the Roman
Catholic Bishop McDonald, who received us with great cordiality, and gave
us letters to all his priests in the north, recommending us to their
special attention. We explained to him at great length the nature of our
Education Scheme, assuring him. that the inspection of our schools should
always be open to the Roman Catholic Priests, and that no books should be
given to the children who were members of his Church except such as he
should approve of. Wherever we stopped on our delightful voyage, fowls,
vegetables, milk, cream, and butter and cheese were sent on board, and,
where they were not so sent, Captain Beatson was not shy in asking them.
"We visited Coll and Tyree, and from thence to
the Western Isles, visiting all the parishes as we went along, and, after
consulting with the proprietors and clergy, and ascertaining all the
statistics connected with the various places, we did not meet with one
heritor who did not grant ground for a school-house and garden in the
locality fixed upon. In Skye I went from Portree to the parish of Duuvegan
to attend the Communion, which was administered in a field close to the
burial-ground of Kilmuir, where some of my ancestors and many of my
relatives are interred. The scene on this day was most impressive and
solemn. The place chosen was singularly fitted for such an occasion, being
a natural amphitheatre, around which the people sat. It was calculated
there were upwards of three thousand people present ; and a more attentive
and apparently devout congregation I have seldom witnessed assembled
together. There was a large tent, formed of spars and oars covered with
sails, erected for the minister and his assistant, while some of the
better class erected other tents for their own use. The church-bell rang
for a quarter of an hour, during which time not one word was spoken by any
one in this great congregation.
"The day was most beautiful, a lovely summer
day; the place of meeting was admirably chosen, there being a kind of
ascent on the field, which made a raised gallery. Several small, romantic
glens led to it, by which the people came to the place of worship. The sun
shone brightly, the winds were asleep, and nothing broke the solemn
silence save the voice of the preacher echoing amidst the rocks, or the
subdued sighs of the people. The preacher, on such an occasion, has great
power over his audience. The Gaelic language is peculiarly favourable for
solemn effect. The people seem enfolded by the pastoral and craggy scenery
around them—the heavens over their heads seem emblematic of the residence
of the God whom they worship and of the final home they are taught to hope
for. They delight to hear the voice of prayer ascending from the place
where they stand to that throne above from which nothing but the blue sky
seems to divide them ; and when all the voices of such a vast congregation
are united in religious adoration, the whole creation round seems to he
praising God. I have indeed witnessed the effect of Gaelic preaching and
of the singing of the Psalms in that language, such as would now appear
almost incredible.
"Standing among the thousands on that day assembled round the old
churchyard of Kilmuir—a place hallowed by many tender associations—I never
did feel more overpowered.
"In singing the last verse of the
seventy-second Psalm in our own beautiful Gaelic version, the vast crowd
stood up, and repeated the last stanza and re-sung it with rapt
enthusiasm. On this occasion the first sermon was preached by the minister
of a neighbouring parish.
"There were but two Table Services, at which a
vast number of communicants sat. The tables, and places for sitting, were
constructed of green sods, decently covered. I had the privilege of
addressing one of these tables, and of preaching at the conclusion a
thanksgiving sermon from the words, 'Grow in grace, and in the knowledge
of our Lord Jesus Christ.' When the whole service was over, many old
people, who had known my father and grandfather, came to offer me their
affectionate blessing.
"The appearance of Loch Dunvegan that evening,
covered with small boats conveying the hearers to their homes, and the
crowds of people winding their way among the dark mountains, was
singularly striking.
"I feel assured that such a scene as the Communion Service that day at
Dunvegan has never since been witnessed in Skye, and I greatly fear never
will be again. A gloomy fanaticism followed the breaking up of the
Established Church, and perhaps in no part of the country did this
bitterness exist more strongly than in. the Western Islands. In Skye
especially it led to dividing families and separating man from man, and
altogether engendered strife which, I fear, it will take years to calm
down. "I returned to
Portree to join the venerable Principal and my other friends." |
