"It must have been early
observed that the plain of Strathmore, the Carse of Gowrie, and the
Carse of Stirling were worth fighting for, and from the dawn of the
historic period onward this becomes clearer."
"Scotland" by John
Mackintosh, LL.D,
It may be interesting to
recall, briefly, one or two of the historic memories of the parish. For
abundant evidence exists in old Scottish Annals that it was once the
centre of great historic scenes. The Carse of Gowrie was one of the
homes of the Caledonian tribe, the "Venricones." Not far from
Invergowrie, just beyond the border of the parish, the remains of a
Roman camp used to be seen. It was called Cater Milley. Maitland gives a
description of it in his History and Antiquities of Scotland (vol. i. p.
215). He says that in the Carse of Gowrie, "about half a mile benorth
the estuary of Tay, is a Roman camp about two hundred yards square,
fortified with a high rampart and a spacious ditch; but as the southern
side appears to have been fenced with triple ramparts and ditches, these
I take to have been the northern fortifications of the praetorium, the
other sides being demolished by the plow, the vestigia appear but
plainly. However, they are sufficient to show that this fortress was of
a parallelogram form, about a quarter of a mile in length, which, from
its vicinity to the Firth of Tay, I take to have been one of the camps
which occasionally contained both the land and sea forces."
Cater Milley is supposed
by many to be a corruption of the Latin quatuor millict, which may
either mark its distance from some other station or the number of troops
it held. Chalmers (Caledonia, vol i. p. 177) derives ii from " the
British cader, a fortress, a stronghold. There is no trace of any other
Roman camp within four miles. The area of Cater Milley was large, but it
is denied that it could hold four thousand men. Knox, in his Topography
of the Basin of the Tay, is clear that whatever be the derivation of
Cater Milley, it was the well-known Roman station Ad Tavum, near to, or
upon the Tay. The tradition is that it was at Invergowrie that Agricola
embarked a number of his men, after returning from the country of the
Horestii. General Roy, who, it may be mentioned, had never heard of
Cater Milley, calculated that between three thousand and four thousand
embarked; and, as it is probable that they embarked at Invergowrie, Knox
concludes that " the station may derive the name (Cater Milley) from the
temporary camp of these troops being pitched on the spot where the
permanent camp was afterward placed. The advantages of the situation,
though still considerable, were probably much more so in the first and
second centuries. The physical changes hereabout have been great; the
tradition, universally prevalent through this part of the country, seems
to be borne out by evidence sufficient to warrant the conclusion that
the course of the Tay was formerly on the north side of the Carse, that
fine river washing the skirts of the Sidlaw Hills from Balthayock to
Invergowrie, to the southward of which was the influx of the Earn." Last
century, coal was landed at the burn-mouth of Invergowrie. And people
still living remember seeing barges load and unload there. Invergowrie
may mean the mouth of—almost the port of— Gowrie.
Ochterlony, in his
account of the shire of Forfar, 1684-5, speaks of the "Gowrie which hath
its beginning in the hills of the Carse of Gowrie, and falleth in the
river Tay at Innergowrie, lour myles west be Dundie." "The Burne of
Innergowrie" was from ail early time (1565) the recognised boundary of
Perth and Forfar. According, also, to charters granted by James VI. and
Charles I., the privileges and liberties of Dundee on the Tay extended "fraethe
Burn-mouth of Innergarie on the west." There seems to have been in olden
times a bridge at Invergowrie. John Monipennie, in An Briefe Description
of Scotland (1612), says: "Next adjacent to Gowry lyes Angusse,
beginning at the bridge of Innergowrie," etc. Cf. also The Scots
Chronicle, which calls the Gowrie the Innergowry: "The rivers in Angus
are Innergowry and Dichty," etc. The Tay attains its greatest breadth at
Invergowrie Bay. [A Caledonian canoe has just been discovered in the Tay
opposite Errol.]
"Yon skiff that quietly
leaves the shore
To skim across thy breast,
Must sail, I wot, a league or more
Before her keel may rest."
Many a vessel, some
friendly, some hostile, has ploughed its waters. The Roman fleet has
anchored at our shores. Pictish crafts have glided along its bosom.1
Centuries later might be seen English ships, French ships, Flemish
ships, mercenary or merchant-laden with the instruments of war or the
merchandise of peace.
In Pictish times the
place was a centre of life and struggle. At the beginning of the twelfth
century, Malcolm Canmore's son Edgar was carried from the Carse of
Gowrie, where he was superintending the building of the castle of
Baledgarno, into Dundee to die.
Scotland's great
champion, William Wallace, must have traversed Longforgan more than once
on his way from Kilspindie to Dundee. Blind Harry sings—
"His modyr fled with hym
fra Elrisle,
Till Gowry past, and duelt in Kilspynde.
In till Dunde, Wallace to scule thai send,
Quhill he of vvitl full worthily was kend."
When eighteen—
"Upon a day to Dunde he
was send;
Off cruelness full litill thai him kend."
That day was a memorable
one in Wallace's life. In a moment of exasperation he killed the son of
Selby, the English Governor of Dundee. Blind Harry (bk. i. 181-276) has
a graphic description of the incident, and of Wallace's flight at night
disguised as an old woman. On his way back to Kilspindie, he is said to
have rested at Longforgan. Not very long ago, there was a weaver in
Longforgan of the name of Smith who had in his possession a stone which
was popularly known as "Wallace's Stone." It was what was called a
bear-stone, "hollow like a large mortar, and was made use of to unhusk
the bear or barley, as a preparation for the pot, with a large wooden
mell, long before barley-mells were known. Its station was 011 one side
of the door, and covered with a flat stone for a seat, when not
otherwise employed." Smith's ancestors had been in the village for five
hundred years, and according to the tradition, it was one of them who
supplied the future champion of Scotland with bread and milk as he
rested. The stone is now at Castle Huntly.
This tradition may
scarcely warrant our speaking of a patriotic party in Longforgan in
those days of struggle. Gowrie sent its quota of gentry, as well as Fife
and Strathern, to Scone to witness the coronation of Baliol. But it is
worth recalling that Sir David Inchmartin was one of those who were
hanged by King Edward's order within a year of Wallace's death. And
Keith, who got a grant of land in Longforgan from King Robert the Bruce,
was one of the patriots of his day. It will not be forgotten, besides,
that Robert the Bruce had a connection with Dundee.
"Syne to Dundd he tuk the
way.
He set a sege thar to stoutly;
And lay thar quhill it yoldyn was,
To Strew illyne syne the way he tais."
Barbour's Bruce, bk. vii.
1101-1106.
Further, there was land
in Longforgan called "Le Bruy's part," and other land "whilk was John
Balliol's."
Castle Huntly has an
interesting connection with the early struggles of Reforming times. The
Lord Gray of those days was a favourer of the Reformation, who used, as
Calderwood tells us, "the companie of those that professed godlinesse
and careid small favour to the Cardinall" (Beaton). In 1544, Lord Gray
was staying at Castle Huntly along with some of his friends; and it was
from thence that he was tempted out by Beaton and fell a prey to his
cruelty. Knox, in his History of the Reformation, tells the story thus:
"The Cardinall drew the Governour to Dundye; for he understood that the
Erie of Rothess and Maister Ilenrie Balnaves war with the Lord Gray in
the Castell of Huntlie. The Governour send and commanded the saidis Erie
and Lord with the foirsaid Maister Henrie to come unto him to Dundye,
and appointed the next day at ten houris befoir none; which hour thei
decreid to keap; and for that purpose assemblet thare folkis at Bawgavy
or thareby. (Bawgavy is ' Balgavie near Innergowrye'). The Cardinall
advertissed of thare nomber (thei war mo then thre hundreth men) thowght
it nott good that thei should joyn with the toune, for he feared his
awin estate; and so he persuaded the Governour to pass furth of Dundye
befoir nyne houris, and to tak the strayth way to Sanct Johnnestoun
(Perth). Which perceaved by the foirsaid Lordis, thei begane to feare
that thei war come to perseu thame, and so putt thame selves in ordour
and array, and merched fordward of purpose to have bidden the uttermost.
But the crafty fox foirseing, that in fightting stood nott his securitie,
rane to his last refuge, that is, to manifest treasone; and so
consultation was tackin how that the force of the otheris mycht be
broken. . . . After long communication, it was demanded, yf that the
Erie and Lord and Maister Henrie foirsaid wold nott be content to talk
with the Governour, providit that the Cardinall and his cumpany war of
the ground ? Thei ansuerft, ' That the Governour mycht command thame in
all thinges lauchfull, but thei had no will to be in the Cardinallis
mercye.' Fayre promisses ynew war maid for thare securitie. r{ han was
the Cardinall and hi| band commanded to depart; as that he did according
to the purpoise tackin. The Governour remaned and ane certain with him ;
to whom came without cumpany the saidis Erie, Lord, and Maister Henne.
After many fair woordis gevin unto thame all, to witt, ' That he wold
have thame aggreed with the Cardinall, and that he wold have Maister
Henrye Balnaves the wyrkar and instrument thairof, he drew thame
fordwartes with him towardis Sanct Johnnestoun whither to the Cardinall
was ridden. Theibegane to suspect (albeit it was to lett) and tharefor
thei desyred to have returned to thare folkis for putting ordour unto
thame.' But it was ansuend, ' 7 hei should send back fra the toune, but
thei most neidis go forduart with my Lord Governour.' And so, partlye by
flatterye, and partlye by force, thei war compelled to obey. And how
sone that ever thei war within the toune, thei war apprehended, and upon
the morne send all three to the Black Nesse, whare thei remaned so long
as that it pleased the Cardinallis graceless Grace, and that was till
that the band of inanrent and of service sett some of thame at l'bertie."
Rather an interesting
ancedote connects George Wishart the Reformer with the neighbourhood of
Invergowrie. In 1545 or 1546, when he set out from Montrose to "meet the
gentleman of the west at Edinburgh," Wishart came to Dundee, but there,
Calderwood tells us, "he stayed not, but went to the hous of a faithfull
brother, named James Watsone, dwelling in Inner Gowrie, distant two
miles from Dundie." "That night,' says Calderwood, "before day he went
furth to the yard. William Spaldine and Johne Watson followed quietlie,
and took heed what he did. When he had walked up and down in an alley a
reasonable space, with manie sobs and deepe groanes, he fell upon his
knees, his groans increassing, and frome his knees he fell upon his
face. The persons forenamed heard weeping, and an indigest sound, as it
were of prayers, in which he continued almost an houre, and after
beganne to be quiett, and so arose and came to his bed. They prevented
him as if they had beene ignorant till he came in. Then beganne they to
demand where he had beene ; but that night he would answere nothing.
Upon the morrow they urged him again; and whill he dissembled, they
said, 4 Mr. George, be plaine with us, for we heard your mourning, and
saw you both upon your knees and upon your face.' With dejected visage
he said, ' I had rather yee had beene in your beds, and it had beene
more profitable for you, for I was skarse weill occupied.' They still
urged him to lett them have some comfort. ' I will tell you,' said he,
'that I am assured my travell is neere at an end. Therefore call to God
for me, that I shrinke not now when the battell waxeth most hote.' Whill
they weeped, and said that was small comfort to them, he answered, ' God
sail send you comfort after me. This realm sail be illuminated with the
light of Christ's Apostles. The hous of God sail be builded in it; yea,
it sail not laike whatsoever the enemie imagine in the contrarie, the
very kaipstone,'— meaning, that it sould once come to the full
perfectioun. ' Neither,' said he, ' sail the time be long till that the
glorie of God sail evidentlie appeare, and once triumphe in despite of
Satan. There sail not manie suffer after me. But, alas ! if the people
sail be after unthankefull, then fearefull and terrible sail the plagues
be that after sail follow.' And with these words he marched fordwards in
his journey toward Sanct Johnston and frome thence to Fife and then to
Leith."
John Knox himself went,
in 1559, with some of his brethren from Dundee to Sanct Johnstoun,
"where he beganne to exhort and teache." It is likely that his road led
him through Longforgan, Longforgan being in the line of the highway
between Dundee and Perth. Three years later, Queen Mary made the same
journey. Not long after, Knox was appointed to visit, amongst others,
the kirks of Gowrie and Menteith.
James VI. rode through it
on the 22nd of May 1617, on his way to Kinnaird, where he spent a wreek.
King Charles II. stayed a
night at Castle Huntly in 1650, though not exactly from choice. On the
death of his father, Charles obtained the support of the Presbyterian
party on a promise to meet their views. He was kept under a mild
surveillance at Perth. Charles had little patience with the preachers
and the Estates, and determined to leave. So one day, on the pretence of
hawking, he escaped. He had 110 change of "clothes or linnings, more
then wes one his bodey," and wore but a "thin ryding sutte of stuffe."
Crossing the Tay, he rode " at a full carreire by Inchyra to Dudhope in
Dundee, from whence he went by Cortachy to Glen Clova, "in al, from
Perthe, the way he went, some 42 myles befor he rested." Here, "in a
nastie roume, one ane old bolster aboue a matte of segges and rushes,
ouerweiried and werey fearfull," the king lay down to rest. The leaders
at Perth followed him, and having overtaken him in Clova, "conducted his
Maiestie to Huntley Castle in the Carsse of Gourey, quher he stayed all
Saterdayes night, and from thence, one Sunday in the afternoone, he came
to Perth, the 6 of Octob., and hard sermon in his auen chamber of
presence, the afternoon's sermon in the toune being endit before he
entred the toune." (Cf. Balfour's Annates.) The incident is known as
"The Start."
When General Monk was
engaged in the siege of Dundee, his soldiers are said to have used
Castle Huntly as a cavalry station, and the church of Fowlis as a
stable. Some Athole men are also reported to have come to Castle Huntly
in the time of Glencairn's insurrection against the Commonwealth in
1654. I hey meant mischief, and "fired a stack or two." But their rage
was shortlived, and they "staid and extinguished them."
A slight link connects
the Pretender (James VIII.) with the district. After being in Dundee in
1716, James, with his friends, made a leisurely progress through the
Carse towards Perth. ''hey halted for dinner at Castle Lyon (Castle
Huntly), and then rode on to Fingask. James had a great reception at
Fingask from Lady Threipland, who was a keen partisan. Her hospitalities
are sung in a famous song—
"When the king cam' to
Fingask,
To see Sir David and his lady,
A cod's head weel made wi' sauce,
Took a hunder pund to make, it ready."
We can believe that the
hospitalities of Longforgan were not less generous. The Strathmore
family, who were then in Castle Huntly, sympathised with the Pretender.
One of the Earls fell at Sheriffmuir. As was natural, the Jacobite
rising made a considerable stir in the quiet life of Longforgan. But it
died away quickly. Ere long, the Chevalier passed the castle again on
his retreat.
An unsigned letter, dated
Perth, Feb. 2, 1716, gives us a peep into the state of things in the
Carse. After the rebels had left Perth for Dundee, Argyle and Cadogan
followed with "the English foot, three regiments of dragoons, and nine
hundred and fifty detached foreigners." Along with a detachment they
lodged a night at Errol. The letter goes on to tell how the country
gentlemen were repenting "their dipping in this affair." Not a thing,
"dead or alive, eatable or portable, do the foreigners leave ; and the
officers of the British say that to see their behaviour does so make
their men's mouths water, that faith they cannot but indulge their men a
little." The rebels, we are told, destroyed barnyards, and used whole
stacks for firing {Hist. MSS. Report, iii. p. 370). The MSS. of the Duke
of Montrose, reported on iii. pp. 368-402, contain some interesting
glimpses of the state of feeling at Perth and Dundee.
Prince Charlie was never,
that we know of, in Longforgan. He was at Fingask. But in 1745, when he
was in Perth, where he stayed a week, a strong body of his followers,
the Macdonalds, under Keppoch and Clanranald, who heard that there were
two vessels in Dundee, with arms and ammunition, marched down the Carse,
through Longforgan, to Dundee, where they seized the vessels and sent
them up the Tay to Perth.
Next year the Duke of
Cumberland led his army through the parish. The duke had been at Perth,
whose obsequious people, anxious to ingratiate themselves with him, had
offered him Gowrie House as a gift. The duke was gracious enough to
accept the gift, only asking, it is said, as he did, "whether the piece
of ground called the Carse of Gowrie did not go along with it?" Next
week he started at the head of his army for the north, travelling first
to Dundee, and then by the coast road to Aberdeen.
It may be added here that
a number of coins have been found in the parish, bearing the royal names
of Edward, Alexander, and Robert. About 1790, an earthen pot was found
with seven hundred silver coins, inscribed "Edward." Some stone coffins
have also been discovered. The most interesting of these were found at
the Market Knowe.
This was a knoll in the
old muir of Longforgan, where the markets used to be held in the earlier
part of last century. According to tradition, although the rest of the
ground was covered with broom, the Knowe kept a beautiful green sward.
Here some coffins have been found, "consisting of four rude longitudinal
stones, and two smaller ones at each end, containing human skeletons."
Others have been found in the neighbourhood of Cater Milley. |