Prince Albert having
signified his intention of enjoying the sport of shooting, by having
a battle of the woods of Taymouth, on Thursday the 8th of September,
no one in or about the castle had ever before felt so deep an
anxiety for fine weather as they did that morning, and all were
disheartened when they beheld the sun rising among clouds. Lord
Breadalbane, who was naturally more anxious than any one, w^as early
astir, and roused his brother-in-law, Mr. Baillie of Jerviswoode, to
aid him in making the necessary preparations. Meeting the Prince’s
secretary, Mr. Anson, in front of the house, he said to him, in
allusion to the doubtful appearance of the sky, “The Prince don’t
mind a little rain,—eh, Anson?”—“Oh, no,” replied Mr. Anson, “He
won’t mind a shower.” Accordingly, soon after nine o’clock, ponies
were brought to the door, and His Royal Highness, who had
breakfasted with Her Majesty at eight o’clock, appeared in a black
velvet shooting-jacket, shepherd’s tartan trowsers, a low-crowneil
grey hat, and cloth gaiter-boots, and having mounted, he rode off,
attended by the Marquess and Mr. Anson. Taking the way to the
eastern gate, they went about two miles along the Aberfeldy road,
that they might begin by beating Tullochuille woods, and so come on
westward through the covers of the southern hills. About thirty or
forty foresters only were required at first. They were all fine
athletic men, in Highland dresses of shepherd’s tartan, and each
with his powder-horn slung over his shoulder. They were under the
command of Mr. Bowie Campbell of Clochfoldach. Mr. Baillie of
Jerviswoode joined his noble brother-in-law in the woods, as did Sir
Alexander Campbell of Barcaldine.
The Prince having dismounted, climbed the hill, and, attended by his
own juger, and Mr. Guthrie, head keeper to Lord Breadalbane, he took
his post on a steep slope within the narrow part of an extensive
plantation, whilst the foresters went on for a mile or two
eastwards, in order to beat westwards in his direction. He had three
double-barrelled rifles and fowling-pieces, which were loaded by his
juger, and successively handed to him as he required them, by Mr.
Guthrie, who stood immediately behind him. It was raining; but, as
Mr. Anson had predicted, the Prince made no account of the wet,
being keenly bent upon his sport, which soon became extremely
animating, the distant shouting of the beaters becoming every moment
louder and nearer, till the roe-deer began to come bursting along,
and, with three successive shots, His Royal Highness killed three
very fine ones. The next station was on the western side of a
ravine, in the extensive Croftmoraig hill plantation, through which
runs a little brook, and there, though the wood was much younger,
and consequently denser, the Prince, with great expertness of aim,
shot different kinds of winged and ground game; and an owl, which
was disturbed, having come in his way, was likewise speedily
numbered with the dead. The Prince had then a considerable extent of
old fir wood to traverse, where he had some long shots at black
game, particularly at a black-cock and a grey hen, both of which
were killed at great distances. This is a favourite haunt of the
capercailzie, two of which noble birds fell before the Prince’s gun.
The shooting scene was most interesting to the few who witnessed it,
but it also produced a fine effect to those in the valley below,
whither the shrill shouts of the people, and the smart reports from
the Prince’s rifle, came echoing from afar, whilst the smoke created
by each shot rose out of the wood, and hung lightly over the trees
in the damp air, mellowing the hues of the foliage. The beauty of
all this was increased as the party came westward to the Braes of
Taymouth, opposite to the castle, where His Royal Highness took up
his third position, and had some good sport. But keenly as the
Prince seemed to enjoy the pastime in which he was engaged, he
allowed none of the magnificent prospects, that were every now and
then bursting upon him through openings among the woods, to escape
his notice, and he was continually expressing his admiration of them
to his noble host. Climbing over the high moorland, and beating
around the outside of the larch woods, the Prince killed three brace
of grouse. Some time previous to this, Lord Breadalbane having
thought that there were too few men out, called a Highlander, and
said to him, “Run to the castle, and order fifty or a hundred men
more to come up directly,” a princely command that was obeyed with
all manner of alacrity; and now that the whole body spread
themselves out in line over the heather, they seemed like men
rushing into action. The Prince, getting nimbly over a high wall,
placed himself in a position, whither the beaters, inclosing a large
circle of the wood, and gradually contracting it as they advanced in
his direction, drove so many roe-deer towards him, that he killed
nine without leaving the spot. On his way clown through the open
ground, His Royal Highness observed a fine old black-cock, at about
two hundred yards off, below a little knoll, and showed great skill
as a sportsman by stalking him. Keeping the knoll between him and
the bird, who sat on a hillock with his eye jealously watching the
people above, the Prince crouched down, so as to conceal himself,
and stealing slowly forward, until he got as near to the bird as he
could, he picked him off with his rifle at a long shot.
Whilst descending the Braes of Taymouth, a prospect of remarkable
grandeur burst upon the Prince’s eyes, and he several times
exclaimed to Lord Breadalbane, “That is really beautiful!” The noble
castle was seen from this elevated position forming the central
object in the lovely valley below, with the Royal banner floating
from its battlements. Immediately behind it towered up the
forest-covered face of the hill of Drummond. The numerous figures
moving about the castle, and among the various glades running
everywhere through the mazes of its woodland, gave animation to the
scene—whilst the Tay was seen meandering through the green and
tufted lawns, in its course from the broad sheet of its lake, that
stretched away far westward, until lost amid the distant mountains,
among which Benlawers and Benmore were most conspicuous. At the
nether extremity of the lake, and close to the origin of the river,
was the Ceaunmore, or Big-head—the peninsula, from the venerable
groves of which the pretty church of Kenmore was seen peeping
modestly forth— and the beautiful wooded island in the lake a little
way above, with the ruins of its ancient priory, founded in 1122 by
Alexander I., where his Queen Sybilla died, and where her remains
are deposited.
The Prince proved himself to he a practised shot and a most active
pedestrian. His last stand of this day was in the Tower Park, a
little below the high tower inhabited by the head-keeper.
This is a picturesque spot, and the whole scene of the shooting here
was finer than any of the others. A narrow road runs diagonally up
the hanging side of the hill, where there is a circular opening in
the wood, broken by irregular groups of trees. Near one of these
stood the Prince, commanding the pass, with his two attendants;
whilst Lord Breadalbane and the other gentlemen placed themselves on
the skirt of the wood at some distance in his rear, with those who
carried the dead game. The beaters who were driving the wood from
the eastward, forced so many roe-deer on before them at this place,
and closed in so rapidly themselves, that men and roe-bucks became
mixed up together in confusion. The Prince had repeatedly, during
the day, manifested the most perfect coolness and self-command,
having frequently raised his gun to the object, and taken it down
again, because he had reason to suspect that there might be a man in
that direction. His Royal Highness’s care in this particular
delighted the Highlanders. At this last stand five roebucks appeared
together at one moment, and the Marquess called out, “Shoot,
sir!—fire, sir!” to which the Prince replied, without raising his
gun, “No, I will not; for, if I do, I may shoot a man.” And
immediately afterwards, when the animals came out in great numbers,
he let them all escape, except such few individuals as he felt
assured he might shoot without doing injury to any one. Imagine this
glorious scene, a pretty piece of woodland in itself, with the
Prince and his two attendants near a picturesque ash-tree, group
with thorns and other smaller growths; the Marquess, and the
gentlemen that were with him, and the foresters with the game,
forming a fine set of foreground figures. The roebucks, and ground
game of all kinds, bursting from every part of the inclosing woods
and brakes around—and the beaters, obscurely seen within the shadows
of the deeper forest, or, singly catching the light as they advance
into the looser parts of it—whilst the winged game were ever and
anon skimming in wild alarm across the field of sky above—the wild
halloos—the whistles—the clapping of hands—the occasional smart
crack of the rifle—and you have a picture of the most striking and
interesting description.
As the Prince in his homeward way crossed the public road that runs
along the hill, he was recognised by a number of ladies and
gentlemen, who were overjoyed at this favourable opportunity of
beholding him, and he courteously acknowledged the marks of respect
which they paid him. Entering by a door of the park wall leading in
by the battery, the Prince came suddenly on one of the most perfect
of the elevated views anywhere to be enjoyed about Taymouth; for
whilst more extensive prospects are to be obtained from higher
points, and, on the other hand, those of a more pictorial
description may be had by going lower, yet there are few places
about the grounds where the happy medium between the two extremes is
so well preserved. The whole valley—its grand castle—its river— and
its bounding hills—with the bridge, and far-withdrawing lake and
distant mountains, are all seen without looking too much as from the
heavens upon them. His Royal Highness expressed very great delight
in the contemplation of this truly grand scene, and taking a short
cut with Lord Breadalbane across the park, he got to the castle a
little before two o’clock.
The Prince was out altogether about six hours, and the distance he
walked may have been about six or eight miles. Under more favourable
circumstances of weather, a much greater quantity of game might have
been shown him. It was very amusing to hear some of the Cocknies,
who had come the hundred miles to witness these stirring scenes,
call this day’s work deer-stulking, and magnify the fatigues and
perils which the Prince had undergone, till the recital outdid
anything that might have arisen out of real deer-stalking itself, or
that has been recorded in Mr. Serope’s graphic descriptions of that
royal sport. Had the time devoted to this Royal tour admitted of the
Prince visiting the forest of the Black Mount, belonging to the
Marquess, about fifty miles from Taymouth, he might then have
partaken of deer-stalking in right good reality. That part of the
Black Mount, or Corrichibah forest, which is strictly preserved for
deer, contains above 35,000 acres. From the ancient family
manuscript in the Taymouth library, called the Black Book, and from
some other documents, it appears that this extensive district of
wild mountain was preserved as a deer forest from very early times.
If any of the Londoners, who witnessed the battue in the woods of
the Braes of Taymouth, were to try deer-stalking in the forest of
the Black Mount, they would soon be made aware of the difference
between the two kinds of sport, stalking being extremely arduous
there from the very steep and rugged nature of the ground. Some
years ago a poacher, who was pursuing the deer there, lost his
footing, and was killed by falling over a rock.
Her Majesty, availing herself of an
improvement in the weather towards mid-day, set out to walk,
accompanied by the Duchess of Norfolk, and attended by a single
footman in the Royal livery. Although Lord Breadalbane had thrown
the grounds quite open to the public on the previous day, the
strictest orders were now given to exclude every one, that the Queen
might, if it so pleased Her Majesty, enjoy them in perfect privacy.
So literal were the Highland gatekeepers in giving obedience to this
command, that even after they had seen some of the gentlemen who
were living at the castle pass out, they could scarcely be brought
to reamit them, “as they had orders to let no one in who had not a
card of a particular kind,” and a near connexion of Lord Breadalbane
required to exert considerable authority, before he could induce a
gatekeeper to admit one of Her Majesty’s principal Secretaries of
State, and a lord of the bed-chamber. The Queen walked up the
river’s bank, until she came to the slopes of shaven turf, leading
up to the Dairy, which stands on the flattened summit of a very
beautiful little hill, clothed with trees and shrubbery of the
richest luxuriance of growth. It is a lovely spot, and the building
is worthy of the scene in which it is placed. It bears some
resemblance in plan to the dairy cottages of the Swiss chalets, and
is built entirely of dazzling white quartz rock. The western front
commands one of the most beautiful views to be found anywhere in the
grounds, and it is still more perfect when contemplated from the
rustic balcony of the upper story of the building.
The Queen walked in by the first opening that offered itself, which
happened to he the kitchen door. The damsels of the Dairy were
astonished to see so fine a lady, though they could hardly have
guessed that it was the fair Sovereign of these mighty kingdoms.
They showed Her Majesty the rooms, however, which are paved with
tesselated marbles, and of a delightfully cool temperature. The milk
was all laid out in nice brown Rockingham ware, and some of it in
clean wooden milk dishes, which are much preferred by the
dairy-maid. Many of the vessels are of fine raised china. These were
all placed on a shelf running round the apartment. Her Majesty
examined every thing, and made many enquiries, and expressed great
pleasure and gratification with all she saw. With her own hand, she
also essayed the operation of making butter, by turning the wooden
handle of a beautiful little china churn, worked by very nice wooden
machinery. The Queen asked for some oaten cake, but the dairymaids
had nothing of the sort. They, however, produced some cakes of a
more delicate description, which had been sent up to them as a bonne
louche from the castle, and they filled a glass with new milk for
Her Majesty, of which she partook with great good humour and
satisfaction. The Queen carried away with her the simple hearts of
the two dairymaids, who afterwards declared that she was as “humble
a laddy as they had ever seen.”
Upon quitting the dairy, the Queen walked through a bosky part of
the approach, where the pheasants were seen strutting across the
open green turf sloping down from the south side of the dairy,
between thickets of shrubs, the metallic lustre of their plumage
shining in the sun, whilst the active squirrels were frisking nimbly
about, rushing up the stems of the trees on the smallest alarm, or
springing actively from bough to bough, and peeping cunningly at
Majesty from some snug sylvan citadel where they were themselves
unseen.
The Queen pursued her walk along the western approach towards the
gate opening into the square of the village of Kenmore. Mr. David
Duff, the good parish clergyman, chanced to be walking in the
grounds with two friends. Seeing two ladies coming slowly towards
them, with a servant in the royal livery at some distance behind,
they at once suspected that it was the Sovereign, and were speedily
convinced, by the man waving his hand, to give them warning of the
Royal personage who was approaching. Standing aside off the road,
they respectfully uncovered, and the Queen most graciously
acknowledged their homage. Her Majesty at this time was some twenty
yards in advance of the Duchess. The road was wet and miry, in
consequence of the rain that had fallen, but Her Majesty seemed to
be little incommoded by this circumstance. Some time after she had
passed, the servant came back to enquire if there was any path by
which Her Majesty could return by the river-side. Such a path does
exist, the access to it being over an aha! fence by a sort of
drawbridge, but as the gentlemen had not remarked in passing,
whether it was up or down, they felt somewhat nonplussed, and in
their confusion they replied, that they did not know. The Queen took
a peep of the village through the iron grille, and then retraced her
steps by the same way to the castle, having been out nearly two
hours.
After Prince Albert’s return from shooting, the Highlanders were
seen approaching the castle, bearing the slaughtered game. First
came twenty roebucks, each carried between two foresters; next
followed men carrying two capercailzies, nine black game, and six
grouse; and the procession was closed by others with twelve hares,
one partridge, one wood pigeon, several rabbits, and the unhappy
bird of night. These were all exhibited near the foot of the iron
stair leading from the Queen’s gallery, and never was there a finer
subject for a picture than the whole of this scene, with the manly
forms of the Highlanders en groupe, and the dead game on the ground.
The Queen came down stairs to look at it, and a black-cock was
afterwards sent for by Her Majesty, that she might have a closer
inspection of it. The feathers of this bird were afterwards plucked
by the officers of the Highland Guard, and worn as trophies in their
bonnets.
About five o’clock in the afternoon, the
weather being still fair, the Queen’s carriages drew up at the door
of the castle, and soon afterwards Her Majesty came down with the
Prince, and they set out for a drive through the grounds. The
Duchess of Norfolk, and Lady Breadalbane, sat in the same carriage
with the Queen and the Prince, and Lord Breadalbane rode in advance,
for the purpose of directing the route. The Queen’s carriage was
preceded by two outriders, and followed by General Wemyss and
Colonel Bouverie as equerries. The second carriage contained the
Duchess of Buccleuch, the Marchioness of Abercorn, the Hon. Miss
Paget, and the Earl of Morton; and the Duchesses of Roxburghe and
Sutherland, the Countess of Kinnoull, and Lady Elizabeth Gower, were
in a third. Lord Breadalbane led the Queen's carriage along the
avenue to the Kenmore Gate, where Her Majesty found all the roads
outside of the park walls covered with multitudes of people, whose
cheers were so loud, that they were heard at the castle, a distance
of two miles. Turning down towards the bridge, the carriage stopped
under the triumphal arch for a few moments, to allow Her Majesty to
enjoy the magnificent view of the lake on the left hand, stretching
away amid its hills for miles towards the west, with its wooded
island and ruin, and the gay flotilla of boats and yachts—and to the
right, the Tay hurrying in one broad unbroken stream, as if eager to
enjoy his meandering course through those delightful grounds. Whilst
the Queen was contemplating these lovely scenes, a Royal salute was
fired from the flotilla, which greatly heightened the effect to the
eye, and gratified the ear by awakening the grand music of the
mountains. The spectacle was extremely animating. From the bridge
the Marquess led the Queen’s carriage by the garden, and by a new
drive he had recently ordered to be made expressly for Her Majesty,
for about a mile up the margin of the lake, whence they enjoyed
occasional peeps of its surface, where the roebucks are often seen
sipping the pure waters of the shallows, as they ripple gently
towards the shore. The carriages turned up into the Killin public
road, by which they came back to the gate leading into the park on
the northern side of the river. Here the Queen entered the beautiful
broad shaven-turf-terrace, following the course and windings of the
Tay, on its right, whilst the open park stretches along on the left.
At first the terrace is little raised above the surface of the
river, but it afterwards gently ascends to a point where stands a
beautiful faesimile of a fine old English cross, whence a rich and
varied view is enjoyed, looking up the bed of the river towards the
bridge and the village, with all their lovely accompanying features,
serving to throw back the retiring perspective of the blue lake with
its wooded hills and misty mountains. The terrace is now raised a
considerable height above the Tay. the steep bank being covered with
very noble timber, and the drive bordered by bending lines of trees,
throwing a complete shade over it. It preserves this character for
about two miles, affording occasional peeps into the wider grounds
on the south side of the river, where the castle stands, and
sweeping round to the point fortified by the Crown battery, whence a
view opens downwards into the little grassy holm of Inchadnie on the
south side of the stream, occupied by the camp of the Highland
Guard. Some little way beyond this, the Queen recrossed the river
over the noble wooden bridge of Inchadnie, whence Her Majesty
returned through a picturesque portion of the deer park, and by the
bridge over the burn of Taymouth, enjoying during this latter part
of her drive some extremely grand and pictorial views of the castle.
This charming drive, of about an hour and a half, very much
gratified the Queen. After Her Majesty was handed from her carriage
by her noble host, she remained for some time talking with him at
the entrance, admiring the fine stags’ heads, with which it is so
properly ornamented, and inquiring about their history.
Besides the Queen and Prince Albert, and the Marquess and
Marchioness of Breadalbane, the Royal dinner-party this day
consisted of the following- individuals :—
The Duchess of Norfolk,
The Hon. Miss Paget,
The Duke and Duchess of Buccleuch,
Lord and Lady Belhaven,
The Duke and Duchess of Roxburghe,
Sir John and Lady Elizabeth Pringle,
The Duchess of Sutherland,
Sir Neil and the Hon. Lady Menzies,
Lady Elizabeth Gower,
Sir George Murray,
The Marquess and Marchioness of Abercorn,
General Wemyss,
The Marquess of Lorne,
Colonel Bouverie,
Mr. Baillie of Jerviswoode,
Mr. Charles Baillie.
Mr. George Edward Anson,
Sir James Clark.
The Earl of Aberdeen,
The Earl of Morton.
The Earl of Mansfield,
The Earl of Liverpool
The entertainment, to which the Queen sat down towards eight
o’clock, was on the same scale of magnificence as on the previous
day. Her Majesty was in excellent spirits, and conversed freely with
those around her, and with much liveliness and intelligence.
John Mackenzie, the Breadalbane piper, played on the balcony outside
the windows during dinner. The healths of the Queen and Prince
Albert were given as usual, after dinner, and the band played. As
the Queen dislikes sitting long at table, she left the dining-room
early, and the gentlemen arose about ten minutes after Her Majesty,
so that all were in the drawing-room by a little after nine o’clock.
The etiquette of the Court was kept up, and Sir Neil Menzies, Bart,
of Castle-Menzies, and the Hon. Lady Menzies, were presented to the
Queen during the evening, when Her Majesty was pleased to pay some
compliments as to the beauty of their ancient residence, which she
had very much admired. The officers of the 6th Carabineers, and of
the 92d Highlanders, were also presented. In the course of the
evening Mr. Wilson, the vocalist, who had been expressly engaged by
Lord Breadalbane for this occasion, sang in the great hall. By the
Queen’s command, he had previously given in a list of some of those
Scottish songs for which he is so much celebrated, from which Her
Majesty selected “Lochaber no more,” “The Lass o’ Cowrie,” “Pibroch
of Donuil Dhu,” “Auld Robin Gray,” “Will ye gang to the Highlands,
Leezie Lindsay?” and “The Flowers o’ the Forest.” Mr. Wilson sang
all these with his usual powerful effect. No Jacobite song had been
given in the list, but after “The Lass o’ Gowrie,” Her Majesty
commanded “Wae’s me for Prince Charlie,” and “Cam ye by Athol?”
Besides these, Mr. Wilson was commanded to sing “John Anderson, my
Joe,” and “The Laird o’ Cockpen.” The Queen was pleased to express
herself highly gratified with Mr. Wilson’s exertions. Her Majesty
and the Prince retired about eleven o’clock to their private
apartments, and after a little pianoforte music and singing, the
rest of the company dispersed for the night. |