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THE MACDONALDS OF
BELFINLAY, BENBECULA.
It is often a matter
of regret to those delighting in the past, to find that old places
and old names around which cling the halo of romance have been
obliterated, some by absorption, others by wanton change.
Take Belfinlay, which
sent out in the 'Forty-five one of the bravest of the warlike race
of Clan Donald, so lovingly referred to by Bishop Forbes, in
illustration. Search in the county rolls of Inverness-shire will be
made in vain for the name, though perhaps one may have fancied it
was to be found among the Outer Hebrides. Take up a map of the old
Diocese of the Isles, and you find Belfinlay on the north-west of
Benbecula, looking out on the mighty Atlantic, lying between
Bala-mhanaich and Bala-na-Caillich—fit abode for Hebridean poet or
romancist. Some of them, it is matter of congratulation, are
presently coming well to the front and stand out nobly in comparison
with certain Lowland ghouls who fatten on destroying the reputation
of past eminent Highlanders.
Alas, how deplorable
in many respects are the changes in the Long Island, between Harris
and Barra, although the places are the same as, in the main, are the
attractive and kindly people.
The recent
publication of "The Lyon in Mourning," that grand collection, so
minute, accurate, and painstaking, for which Highlanders in all ages
will hold the good Bishop Forbes in everlasting remembrance, has
brought freshly to notice some papers long in my possession, wrapped
up in faded paper and endorsed in an old hand, "Mrs Macdonald
Belfinlay's Papers."
Allan Macdonald,
counted as eighth Captain of Clanranald, had three sons, Ranald, the
third, receiving from his father lands in Benbecula and Arisaig,
confirmed to him in 1625. Ranald was succeeded by Ranald Og, his son
by a second marriage. The latter, by Papal dispensation, married in
1653 Anne, his cousin within the prohibited degrees, daughter of the
tenth Clanranald. Ranald Og was succeeded by his eldest son James,
described in 1686 as "of Belfinlay." James Macdonald was succeeded
by his eldest son Ranald, Captain in Clanranald's Regiment, of whom
the worthy Bishop says, under date, Leith, 4th of December, 1749—"
Woes me for the death of the worthy Belfinlay, whose memory I
revere." Upon the 9th of January, 1748, Captain Donald Macdonald,
alias' Donald Roy, brother of Balishare, called on the good Bishop,
who records that, "Captain Donald in his journey to Edinburgh had
visited Macdonald of Belfinlay, who had given him a remarkable
narrative in his handwriting upon the back of an old letter, and
taking the paper out of his pocket book, he delivered it to me.
After reading it I desired to know if I might have the liberty of
transcribing it in my collection. He told me I might dispose of it
as I pleased, for that he had got it from Belflnlay on purpose that
I might preserve the narrative in Belfinlay's own handwriting. I
then begged leave to observe an omission, which was that Belflnlay
had forgot to fix a date to his handwriting, and therefore I desired
Captain Roy 'Macdonald to inform me (if he could) at what time he
received the manuscript from Belfinlay. After recollecting himself a
little the Captain answered that he was in the country of Arisaig
about December 20th, 1747, and to the best of his remembrance he was
upon that very day with Macdonald of Belfinlay and saw him write the
narrative with his own hand in the very shape in which he had just
now delivered it to me."
Here follows an exact copy of the
narrative, the original of which, in Belfinlay's handwriting, is to
be found among my (Bishop Forbes) papers :-
"That there was a vast number of the
Highlanders killed in cold blood the next morning after Culloden
battle is a fact that can't be denyed, and that can be likewise
attested by Mr Ranald Macdonald of Belfinlay (a cadet of
Clanranald's family), who was an eye witness to that tragedy. This
gentleman, who was an officer (a Captain) in the Highland army, had
the misfortune to be shott through the two Ieggs in that action,
which rendered him incapable to make his escape. He lay in a field
after he received his wounds, and was betwixt the fire of the
English army and that of the few French troops that made some
resistance after the Highlanders were routed, where showers of balls
pass'd by him. He remained likewise in the field all that night,
after he was stript of all his cloaths, his very shirt and breeches
being taken from him. But as he was young and of a robust
constitution, he lived till next morning, when he saw that cruell
command coming to execute their bloody orders, and saw many of his
unhappy companions putt to death in cold blood. They were just
presenting their firelocks to his own breast when he was saved
through the clemency of Lieutenant Hamilton, who if he remembers,
belonged to Cholmondely's regiment and who took him to a
neighbouring country house. Next day he was brought along with
wounded redcoats to Inverness, they cursing and abusing him all the
way for a damned rebellious rascal. He lay a prisoner at Inverness,
not being able to be transported with the broken bones in his legs,
till the indemnity which set him free. He lives and can walk about."
Belfinlay's case seems to have made a
deep impression on the Bishop, who, signing himself "Donald
Hatebreeks," in his letter to Dr Burton of York, and dating from
"Tartan- hall," on the 19th of June, 1749, says, inter alia-
"Just now a limmer is busy about an
original picture at my desire upon which he is to draw the following
description:—Ranaldus Macdonald de Belfinlay in Benbecula, in
proelio Cullodino (Etat suae 18) multo vulnere saucius, nudatus, sub
dio circiter horas 22 restabat; sed tandem hurnanitate (tuna
cemporis admodum singulari) cujusdam Hamiltonij vicarij de legione
Cholmondiyaca salvus evasit dum vulneratos commilitones (referens
tremisco) consulto mactatos, miserrime jugulatos undique videbat;
adeo ut contaminata esset terra caedibus. Monstrum —Horrendum —Ingens!
The limmer assures me he is determined to work off a plate of it
with the same inscription not to cost above a shilling sterling per
copy. As it is an historical and undeniable proof of a certain
barbarous and shocking scene, so I doubt not but it may circulate
far and near. Pray, dear sir, be at pains to count noses and say
what demand may be for such a commodity in your cornet-. You may
have as many copies as you please."
(Signed) "DONALD HATEBREEKS"
Whether or not the proposed engraving
was ever published I cannot say. Belfinlay's end is thus noted by Dr
John Macdonald, brother to Kinlochmoydart and stepfather to
Belfinlay, with the Bishop's indorsation-
"Dear Sir,—I had no opportunity before
now to let you know of our arrival in the country. We had a most
severe journey of it, with most excessive winds and rains which has
cast poor Belfinlay so low that alas, I fear he has not many days to
pass in this world, otherwise you might be sure he had embraced so
fair an opportunity of letting you hear from him. His illness puts
me and whole family in very great confusion, for I have quite
despaired of his recovery. There is no country news but a prodigious
bad season and plenty of Red Coat parties, both very bad articles.—I
am, Dear Sir, your affectionate humble servant,
(Signed) 'JNO. MACDONALD.
Kinlochmoydart, Sept. 21st, 1749."
"The original of the above is to be
found among my papers. I received Dr Macdonald's letter from Neil
Macdonald, Maceachen's eldest brother, John Macdonald Maceachen,
who, and Angus Macdonald of Militon (Miss Flora Macdonald's full
brother) made me a visit. They afterwards told me that they got
notice from the Highlands that Belfinlay died on 28th September."
(Signed) "ROBERT FORBES, A.M."
Upon the 4th of December, 1749, Bishop
Forbes says that he was favoured with a visit from Ranald Macdonald,
son to Borrodale, who gave him a letter from Major Alexander
Macdonald of Glenaladaic, in which, referring to Belfinlay,
Glenaladale says-
"I am heartily sorry to have the account
of your real well-wisher Balfinlay's death to give you, having
departed on the 27th September last, much regretted by his friends,
among whom he depended on you as a firm one."
The gallant and unfortunate Captain
Ranald Macdonald, on his death prematurely from his wounds and
barbarous treatment at Culloden, was succeeded by his son Allan,
then a child. Allan was held in great estimation by the Clanranalds,
not only for his father's sake, but as due to his own high character
and prudent conduct. Besides Belfinlay, Allan Macdonald had the
possession of Ardgaseg or Ardghasarig, in Arisaig, and was able to
lend considerable sums to his chief, unpaid at his death. He married
in 1768, Jean Mackinnon, daughter of Lachlan Mackinnon of
Corrychatachan, a clever helpmate, who managed prudently whilst the
marriage subsisted, and during her long widowhood, conducted the
family affairs with discretion. Allan Macdonald died in Muidart, in
September, 1784, and was survived by his wife and at least two
children—James, who succeeded; and a daughter, Janet. His debts were
trifling, including sums in total not exceeding five pounds, due to
Donald Macdonald of Cross, James Macdonald of Borrodale, and Colin
Macdonald of Traigh.
Mrs Jean was unfortunately involved in
considerable litigation, from which she generally emerged
successfully, notably in one case—that with Colin Macdonald of
Boisdale, factor for Clanranald.
The tax on windows was a most obnoxious
one, and greatly exercised the minds of those affected, specially
ladies. I give one of Mrs Jean's letters, addressed to a friend in
Inverness, chiefly for her remark on the Surveyor who had visited
her house on his rounds, well worth recording. "But I excuse him in
a manner when he viewed my house, his eyes had a cast more than
ordinar," would have delighted Dean Ramsay. The letter follows :-
"Ostaig, 2nd June, 1798.
"Sir,—By last post I had a letter from
Mr Fraser of Gortuleg. Concerning his attention towards the
transactions betwixt my husband and the family of Clanranald, he
stated that he would show all the manner of justice possible in our
favours. He says that you did not send him a copy of the assignation
granted by my son James in favour of his sister Jenny, and if that
is the case, begs on receiving this, you will lose no time in
writing to him and enclosing the said assignation.
I now beg to acquaint you of a tax of
window lights, that I think I have no right to so much as is
mentioned by Mr Mackay when here, but I excuse him in a manner, when
he viewed my house his eyes had a cast more than ordinar. It is not
worth my while to say anything but truth concerning them, but his
imposition if I have the right side of the question, I hope you will
put me on the right channel only to pay for the number hereafter
mentioned, that is, six windows and one small opening without glass.
"He charged me for two riding horses. I
never keep one I declare, but he has seen two large labouring horses
of Mr Macpherson's on his farm which marches with mine, and has
taken it for granted as it was so near my house that they belonged
to me, He has charged Mr Macpherson with the same horses ; my small
farm had no right to such horses, being too small. He charges me
with ZI 3s sterling and I don't want to lose so much by imposition
yearly if I can think to avoid it. You will act for me in reasoning
the case with Mr Mackay, which I will cheerfully accompt with you.
Concludes with compliments to my worthy friend Mrs Macdonald, and
the young family in general.—I am, sir, your most obedient servant,
(Signed) JEAN MACDONALD.
James Macdonald, the next Belfinlay,
resided abroad for many years. Upon the 15th of June, 1791, he made
over all his estate in Scotland to his sister Jean, by deed signed
at Ostaig on the above date, written by Donald Macleod, late
tacksman in Canna, and witnessed by him and James Beverley,
schoolmaster in Sleat.
Amongst those referred to in Mrs Jean's
letters are her sister, Mrs Macpherson of Sleat, her nephew Mr
Mackinnon of Kyle, and Miss Annie, Tormore. The Belfinlays'
connection with Uist gradually dropped away, Skye becoming their
main residence. After the last sale of Waternish the family of
Belfinlay, with their connections, the Nicolsons of Ardmore, became
proprietors, and still continue in possession. [Since the foregoing
was written, I observe on the authority of Dr Kenneth Macdonald,
Gesto, that a servant of Ms Jean's, viz., Mrs Catharine Macgillivray
or Kennedy, one hundred years of age, still survives (1S96) and in
possession of her faculties. It is quite possible, indeed probable,
that she may have spoken to and been acquainted with people who knew
Belfinlay Of the '45. I much regret I did not know of this old lady,
or would have endeavoured to see her when in Uist in 1892. C. F. M.]
The present Allan Macdonald of Waternish,
son of Major Macdonald, is a resident, and prominent in the
successful rearing of West Highland stock. From his residence of
Fasach, there are, weather permitting, seen perhaps the finest
sunsets in the Isles—across the lesser Minch to the grand outlines
of the mountains of South and North Uist, bathed in gold, a dream of
beauty.
Waternish possesses in the island of Rona, a holding in his original
duchus of Uist, and as his nephew is lately happily married, all
Highlanders and Islanders wish for the standing and continuous
prosperity of the house of Belfinlay.
THE CLANRANALD IN
SOUTH UIST AND BENBECULA.
When referring to Moidart and Arisaig, I
gave the Clanranald rental in 1798, in these localities. The
judicial rental then taken included the Isles; that portion
comprehending South Uist and Benbecula follows, and may be
contrasted with the present occupancy. Later on, the names of the
crofters and cottars early in this century will be given, amongst
whom will doubtless be found the immediate predecessors of many of
the present possessors-
This finishes the Benbecula list, but
the evidence of Donald Ferguson, ground officer, may be given in
regard to the meal supplied to the tenants, viz., "That he knows the
whole tenants on the estate have been in use of being supplied with
meal by the proprietor, as the crops raised on the estate seldom or
ever prove sufficient for the maintenance of the numerous
inhabitants necessary for the manufacturing of the kelp."
Ranald George Macdonald of Clanranald,
who succeeded to his great estates when a child, was brought up with
an exaggerated idea of his importance and wealth. Bad management,
inefficient supervision, and above all the fall in the value of
kelp, proved fatal, and one after another of his great estates had
to be sold, until nothing remained but Castle Tyrim and a few acres
in Moidart. He lived to a great age, and at least on one occasion,
when an octogenarian, visited the north and spent some days in
Inverness. Within no great distance of each other live in the great
Metropolis, the representatives of the once great houses of
Glengarry. Clanranald, and Maclean, and worthy representatives they
are, but alas, whose are their lands ?occupied by "the sons of
little men," to use the words of Ossian.
THE MACDONALDS OF BORNISH.
The family of Bornish is described in
the Old Statistical Account as the only resident heritors in South
Uist. They, like Clanranald and Boisdale, have in turn disappeared.
There were two Bornishes, Upper and Lower. Lower Bornish belonged to
Clanranald, while Bornish Uachdar was feued out by Donald Macdonald
of Moidart, Captain of Clanranald, to Ranald Vic Coil, by charter
dated the 16th May, 1672, registered in the Books of Session at
Edinburgh, on the 29th November, 1760. Infeftment followed on the
2nd December, registered in the General Register of Sasines at
Edinburgh, on the 28th of August, 1683. The feu duty and casualties,
latterly commuted into a fixed money payment of £24 5s 9d,
originally consisted of 100 merks Scots, twelve ten stones butter,
and five stones of cheese ; and the entry of heirs and successors is
fixed at two hundred merks Scots.
A century later brings us to John
Macdonald, a stirring man in his day. By his first wife Bornish had
Ranald Macdonald, who succeeded and was the last Bornish, also
Dugald, Archibald, Christian, and Marion. His second wife was
Catharine Macdonald, and there was serious litigation between her
stepson, Ranald Macdonald, and herself. John Macdonald died very
early, I think in January, 1803, leaving by his settlements, dated
8th December, 1802, only £20 per annum to his relict and certain
allowances by way of furniture and stocking. John Macdonald seems to
have entertained doubts as to the steadiness of his son, for he
leaves considerable money provisions to his younger children, in the
event that Ranald should dispose of his heritable property to a
stranger, or sell the same, or allow it to be evicted by his
creditors. The
disputes ended in Court, and protracted and ruinous litigation
carried out, I fear, by pretended friends. Real friends in the
country met and got matters referred to Major James Macdonald of
Askernish and Mr Robert Brown, Clanranald's factor. These gentlemen,
aided by mutual friends in the country, endeavoured to arrange
differences, but ineffectually, and the Edinburgh lawyers had the
business in hand from 1809 to 1814, terminating in the defeat and
ruin of Ranald Macdonald, who, however, struggled on till 1837, when
he is still found as the only resident heritor in South Uist. By
1845 Bornish, with all South Uist, had fallen into the hands of the
unlamented Aberdonian Colonel Gordon, who wished to turn the island
into a convict settlement, and was ready to dispose of it as such to
Government, no doubt, in the meantime, clearing off the whole
population, as was done in Clanranald's other islands of Rum and
Canna, after their sale.
Mrs Macdonald appears to have had no
relative or willing friend in Uist, except Major James Macdonald of
Askernish, whom Bornish accused of initiating and keeping up the
ill-feeling between him and his stepmother. The names of the Rev.
Ranald Macdonald, priest at Bornish; Ranald Macdonald, shepherd; the
Rev. William Arbuckle, minister of the Gospel in South Uist; Dugald
Macdonald at Bornish Hugh Macdonald, late at Killipheder; Malcolm
Morrison, tenant in Bornish; Captain James Maclean, at Penmore of
North Uist; Alexander Maceachin, tenant in Howbeg John Macdonald,
tenant in Lower Bornish; Neil Maclellan, tenant there; Angus
O'Henley, tenant there; and Christian Macdonald, his wife, appear in
course of the proceedings.
Old Bornish left L2 per annum to each of
the two parish priests of South Uist and Benbecula for the use of
the poor of their respective parishes, and nominated Hector
Macdonald Buchanan, W.S., Captain James Macdonald of Askernish, Rev.
Alexander Maceachin of South Uist, and James Macdonald of Borrodale,
to be his executors and as tutors and curators to his daughter
Marion during her pupillarity and minority.
The estate, which extended to about 1600
acres, is thus described in the old titles:-"All and haul the Town
and lands of Bornish Uachkar, extending to seven pennies and a half
lands of old extent; with houses, biggings, yards, woods, fishings,
shea]lings, mosses, muirs, parts, pendicles, and pertinents thereto
belonging." THE
MACDONALDS OF BOISDALE.
The family of Boisdale only ran through
four generations, but in the time of Colin Macdonald, the second, it
attained great importance on the Clanranald estates and in the
Isles. The first of the family was Alexander Macdonald, son of
Donald Macdonald of Benbecula, afterwards of Clanranald, by his
second marriage. He may have been in possession of Boisdale
previously, but the charter in his favour by Ranald Macdonald,
designed Younger of Clanranald, is dated the 26th of July, 1758, on
which he was infeft in the same year. The description of the lands
and mill thirlage, is in these words—
"All and whole the twenty penny lands of
Boisdales, Smerclet, Kilbride, Eriskay and Lingay, with the corn
mill lately built on the said lands, with grazings, sheillings,
mosses, rnuirs, meadows, woods, fishings, islands, rocks, and whole
parts, pendicles and pertinents of the said lands of Kilbride,
Boisdale, Eriskay, Smerclate, and Lingay and miln aforesaid ;
together with the teinds of the-said lands so far as the said Ronald
Macdonald of Clanranald had right thereto, with the mill lands,
multures and sequels thereto belonging, and payable out of the lands
lying between the Sound of Barra, and the water called Ryglass,
particularly after-mentioned, viz., the lands of Kilpheder,
Dalibrugh, Garryhualach. Askernish, South Frobost, North Frobost,
Garryvaltos, and Milntown, belonging in property to Clanranald,
together with the services performable by the tenants and possessors
of the said lands to the mill, all lying within the parish of South
Uist and shire of Inverness."
In some of the titles Boisdale is
described as a five merk land of old extent, called Beustill or
Boisdale.
The first Macdonald of Boisdale, forsaking the ancient faith, became
a Protestant, and showed his zeal by driving his tenants to church
with a staff of foreign importation, of yellow colour, hence the
nickname applied to the new religion, "the religion of the yellow
stick." Boisdale's unhappy persecution of his tenants ended, as is
well known, in the expatriation of many of the flower of the
Clanranald people, headed by John Macdonald of Glenaladale, who
sympathised with them in their sad fate.
Alexander must have died early in 1768,
perhaps before that year, for a precept of dare constat is granted
in favour of Colin Macdonald, as eldest son and heir of Alexander
Macdonald of Boisdale, on the 28th of May, 1768.
In the time of this Colin, second of
Boisdale, the family had attained its height, he being almost
supreme over the great Clanranald estates. Colin had numerous sisters
and brothers, his father having married three times, and was himself
married first to Margaret Campbell of Airds, and secondly to
Isabella Campbell of Glen-Falloch. Miss Margaret Campbell's portion
was 9000 merks. Colin died between 1799 and 1800, leaving a large
family, of whom may be mentioned Hector, a Writer to the Signet, who
feathered his nest handsomely through the love of litigation or
imbecility of some of the island proprietors, and who assumed the
additional name of Buchanan on his marriage with a Dumbartonshire
heiress; Reginald, of Staffa, who succeeded by special destination
to the baronetcy of Allanton, and, by marriage, to the Seton-Touch
estates. "Old Staffa," as he was called, was well-known in Edinburgh
society in its palmiest days, during the times of Sir Walter Scott
and others. Margaret Macdonald, Boisdale, became the wife of Flora
Macdonald's nephew, Angus of Milton. Their contract of marriage is
dated the roth of March, 1783.
Colin Macdonald was succeeded by his
eldest son Alexander, third of Boisdale, afterwards a
Lieutenant-Colonel. He married, contract dated 11th June, 1783,
Marion Maclean of Coil. Before his father's death Boisdale was in
difficulties, and the heavy provisions to his numerous brothers and
sisters proved so burdensome while his father's trustees were in
possession of the estate, that he had to place himself under trust,
first in 1813 to William Dallas, W.S., and at a later period to
Alexander Maclean of Coil, Hugh Macdonald, his eldest son, and
Messrs Mackintosh and Macqueen, Writers to the Signet. He died in
1818 and was succeeded as representative of the family, but not in
the estate, by Hugh Macdonald, fourth of Boisdale, who vent to
England, married, and, since the estate was sold to the Gordons,
lost sight of.
Alexander Macdonald, third of Boisdale, besides his family burdens,
was engaged in several litigations, particularly one with his uncle,
Major James Macdonald of Askernish. There was also a keenly fought
question with some of the Barra people about rights of fishing,
which, as they related to the historic isle of Eriskay, may be
briefly noticed here. The southern part of South Uist, including
Eriskay, formed of old a part of the property of the MacNeills of
Barra, and though the lands had long passed to the family of
Clanranald, yet the Barra people continued to fish around and land
their boats on Eriskay.
In 1809 Colonel Alexander Macdonald
makes an application in the Court of Session against, among others,
Ewen Ban Macdonald, grieve to MacNeil of Barra; Peter Robertson,
schoolmaster of Barra ; Finlay Mackinnon, ground officer there ;
Angus Macmillan, John O'Henley, Alexander Macneil, Neil Macinnes,
and Neil Maclean, all in Barra, to prevent them from encroaching and
roaming abroad upon Eriskay at pleasure, and injuring Bois- dale's
cattle and disturbing them, as also from fishing upon the banks
adjacent to his islands. The respondents are said to admit
Boisdale's right of property, but plead certain rights of use and
wont, which Boisdale characterises "as savouring more of ancient
depredations, than of the modern civilization of the Highlands and
Islands of Scotland." He goes on to say that Eriskay lies in the
channel between Barra and that part of South Uist belonging to him,
but much nearer to South Uist, and through his predecessor's
toleration, the Barra people were permitted to fish close inshore at
Enskay, the fish there being more numerous and of better quality.
The sea around the island subsides greatly at ebb, leaving a
considerable beach, which the Barra people utilised by hauling up
their boats and taking sand worms for bait. Indeed they went so far
as to kindle fires and pluck up grass by the roots, to prevent their
lines from intertwining, and even erected huts.
Further, Boisdale contended that the
Barra people had no right to fish nearer Eriskay than the mid
channel with Barra, and stated that he was Depute-Admiral over the
coasts of his own estate. He further stated that the respective
fishing banks should be distinctly defined, for the present state of
matters frequently ended in a fray and riot, and the loss of fishing
tackle ; and that in order to secure a kind of preference for the
season South Uist and Barra began to set their lines in the.
favourite banks, two months before the season opens, taking them
away from the cultivation of their lands.
It came out in the procedure that the
old occupiers of Eriskay had emigrated, and those remaining knew
nothing of its ancient history, or the old manner of possession.
Fishing seasons vary, but it may be said
with truth that there will always be considerable fishing ex
adverso of the old Boisdale lands and those of Barra. A new era
for these long neglected localities will commence when the Mallaig
line is opened, while the names of its unpatriotic opponents will be
held in merited obloquy.
PRESENT AND PAST DISTRIBUTION OF LAND IN
SOUTH UIST. Men
were of value in the islands of old as a fighting body, and
consequently cherished by the proprietors. Later, in the palmy days
of kelp, they still continued of use, but evil days came when the
old proprietors were ruined, and new-corners looked for mere
returns. In
other parts of the county sheep farming played havoc with the
people, but in the isles, chiefly in the outer Hebrides, men had to
make way for large cattle farms. The black cattle of the islands
were not only pleasant to look at, but fetched high prices, hence
the finest land became absorbed in a few large black cattle farms.
Many of the people emigrated, doubtless the most active and
energetic, while the sluggish and spiritless were planted either in
poor near places, or amongst people already bordering on congestion.
In South Uist the best lands face the Atlantic, and the west side of
it was the first to suffer.
I will take Ormiclate, which has long been a large farm possessed by
a single tenant, by way of illustration. In 1810 there were removed
from it no fewer than 16 heads of families, perhaps 100 souls, viz.,
Ned Macisaac, Donald Curry, John Macdonald, Angus Morrison, Roderick
Macdonald, Ranald Maceachin, Duncan Macisaac, James Maclean,
Alexander Maclean, John Maclennan, John Macphee, John Maclean, John
Macdonald, piper; Roderick Curry, James Curry, and John Macintyre.
It will be observed that the place was the home of a piper.
There is now in Lower Bornish one
tenant, but in the same year, 1810, no fewer than 26 tenants, or
about 150 souls, were removed from Lower or Clanranald's Bornish,
viz., Roderick Macdonald, Lachlan Curry, Angus Macmillan, John
Maclellan, Roderick Macmillan, Neil Macintyre, Donald Macmillan,
Donald Macdonald, senior, John Morrison, Donald Macisaac, Angus
Macisaac, John Macdonald, Macintyre, John Macdonald, Donald
Macdonald, junior, John Macdonald, junior, Archibald Maclellan,
Widow Curry, Roderick Buie, Donald Maceachan, Roderick Maclellan,
Angus Mackintosh, John Mackintosh, Angus Macintyre, John Macmillan,
and Donald Maclellan.
In Kilaulay and Unique there appears to
be now in all ii occupants, while no less than 35 were removed in
1810, viz., John Mackinnon, Ewen Mackinnon, Lachlan Mackinnon, Widow
Dugall Macdonald, Roderick Macisaac, Alexander Maceachin, Farquhar
Campbell, John Morrison, Angus Campbell, Donald Mackinnon, Donald
Macisaac, John Macphee, Alexander Maceachin, senior, William Burke,
Alexander Macdonald, Roderick Macisaac, senior, Donald Macisaac,
Neil Macphee, Angus Macdonald, Ranald Macdonald, Allan Macdonald,
Malcolm Macinnes, Lachlan Macdonald, Alexander Macaulay, Lachlan
Macaulay, John Macdonald, Donald Macdonald, senior, Donald Macinnes,
Donald Macdonald, second, Neil Macphee, junior, John Mckinnon,
Alexander Macdonald, Neil Macphee, senior, Donald Macphee, and John
Macphee. The
townships of Liniclate and Balgarva are much as they were in the
beginning of the century, numbering 41 at present, as compared with
44 in 1810; Balvannich and Dungannich numbering 31 against 32 in
1810. Stoney
bridge isnotoriously congested, having at present 37 tenants against
18 in 1810, while the lands have been curtailed, and added to
Ormiclate. [It is a matter of great satisfaction to observe
(November 1896) that the sadly congested holding of Stoneybridge
receives considerable enlargement of holdings from the Crofters
Commission out of this Ormiclate. C. F. M.]
In 1810, Lieutenant Angus Macdonald of
the gist Regiment, Colin Macdonald, at Garryvaltos, Sons of the
deceased Captain Angus Macdonald of Millton; Margaret Jane,
Penelope, and Isabella Macdonald, their sisters, are summoned out of
Millton; but this historic family were not actually dispossessed
until a few years later.
Two great improvements have been carried
out since South Uist was sold, the one being the shutting out of an
inlet of the sea which practically made two islands of South Uist.
This very desirable improvement in banking and draining was of the
greatest importance, not only adding to the producing area, but
ridding considerable tracts from sea water which came in with every
tide. It is to be feared that this great operation has not been well
attended to of late years, nor has the efficient keeping open of
certain valuable main drains. The other improvement, also it is
feared now getting neglected, was the planting of bent on the west
coast machars, which not only gave considerable sustenance, and
added greatly to the beauty of the coast, but effectually stopped
sand drifts. In 1792, the sea had encroached so far that a reduction
of rent was made, while the ancient road by the Atlantic shore, from Nunton to Ormiclate, had become in part obliterated.
As I previously said, in the Outer
Herides all the best land faces the Atlantic, to which it slopes
gently with a south-western aspect from the mountains to the sea.
With security of tenure, a better
distribution of the good land, the opening up and developing of the
fisheries, the speedy access to the southern markets by the Mallaig
Railway, which last has been so villainously impeded during the last
four years, a new era of comfort and prosperity ought and will
doubtless arise for the long suffering but lovable and orderly
inhabitants of the Isles.
A SOUTH UIST CENTENARIAN.
I may mention that in 1892 when in South
Uist, I saw Neil Maceachin at Howbeg, who said that his age then was
"five twenties and one," though those about him made out that he was
only ninety-seven. Neil was well acquainted with Margaret Macdonald,
sister of Clanranald of the commonly called " Miss Peggy Ormiclate,"
whose father was born as far back as 1692. It was to verify
statements to this effect that I called at Neil's bothy, and I had
it from himself, lie was not only well up in the Clanranald history
but in that of Flora Macdonald's house of Millton. It was this Neil
who gave my friend, Father John Mackintosh of Bornish some of the
verses on the sad death by drowning of Captain Angus Macdonald of
Millton, which will be found in one of the volumes of the
Transactions of the Gaelic Society of Inverness.
I select the following from my
note-book, taken down at the time:-
"On Tuesday, the 28th of June, 1892, I
attended a meeting in course of my canvass at Howmore, in South Uist.
Recollecting that I had papers showing that Miss Margaret Macdonald,
sister of the young Clanrinald of the '45, was living at Ormiclate
as late as the year 1825, whose father Ranald Macdonald, in his
youth styled of Benbecula," was born as far back as 1692, I told
Father John Mackintosh of Bornish, if there was any old person in
the district who had seen Miss Margaret, that I should like to have
an interview with such person. He enquired of people assembled at
the meeting, when a middle aged man named Macdonald came forward and
stated that he believed his mother was acquainted with Miss
Macdonald, whom he described as "Miss Peggy Clanranald." his house
was sonic miles distant but not far from the high road, and in case
he might not be there before my arrival, he described the situation.
Upon driving up to the house I took to be the one indicated, I saw
at the door it person who did not look old enough to be Mrs
Macdonald, and the place altogether looked inferior to what I would
expect as the residence of my well-dressed and intelligent
informant. I asked her if she was Mrs Macdonald and she said "No,"
but pointed to an inner room, upon entering which I saw a very old
man, sitting alone by the fireside, who seemed very much astonished
at my appearance.
"I saw then that I was in the wrong
house, but the man being apparently very old, I thought I would
question him. He gave his name as Neil Maceachin, and that he was
101 years old. At this stage the woman contradicted him and said he
was only 97, upon which he stated, striking his staff on the floor
(all the conversation being in Gaelic) "No, no, five twenties and
one." Stated that he had been in "South Uist all his days." Did he
know Miss Peggy Clanranald who lived at Ormiclate? Answered,
"Perfectly; she was an old woman when I was a comparatively young
man, but I have seen and spoken to her frequently. She was an active
energetic person whom I used to see constantly going about and very
much thought of as the only member of the Clanranald family who
remained and constantly resided in Uist." By this time the apartment
had become full of people, who all seemed to be acquainted with my
name. I gave the old man five shillings, with which he was very
pleased, and he attempted, with the aid of his staff to rise while
thanking me, but failed in the attempt. On going outside, Macdonald
came up breathless to say that he had seen his mother, who had told
him that she recollected Miss Peggy quite well, and wished me to go
with him to his house, but as his mother was described as only 87,
and as I had already got the connecting link of information I
wished—time also being pressing—I was obliged to continue my
journey, though probably losing some interesting fragments of
Clanranald and South Uist story." |
