The coast-line of
Forfarshire, about 37 miles in length, presents great variety of
feature—alluvial shores, sands, cliffs and raised beaches.
The Carse of Gowrie,
for example, at the eastern extremity of which we may begin our
peregrination, is the levelled terrace of the 50 feet raised beach,
now turned into rich alluvial land. At Dundee the lower parts of the
town are built on the 25 feet beach. On platforms of the same height
rest the blown sands of Barry, Carnoustie, and Montrose. The 100
feet beach can be well seen at Barry, Arbroath, and Montrose.
Between Dundee and
Broughty Ferry, interesting primeval deposits have been unearthed at
Stannergate in the form of “kitchen-middens”—the refuse heap of some
primitive community. At Broughty Ferry a small rocky promontory juts
into the firth and narrows it to about the breadth of a mile.
Below Broughty Ferry
the Lady Bank runs out to a sharp spit of sand and forms one side of
the small estuary of the Dighty. On the landward side the Sands of
Barry, with two lighthouses, stretch out to Buddon Ness and doubling
it extend to Carnoustie. At Buddon the great sand dunes attain an
altitude of 95 feet and form the most conspicuous objects on the
coast-line. Between the shore-line and the railway is a great
expanse of links utilised by the War Office for annual encampments
and artillery practice. Close at hand are the golf courses of
Monifieth, Barry, and Carnoustie. Farther east West-haven and
Easthaven, almost contiguous with each other and with Carnoustie,
are picturesque fishing villages. Their shore is characterised by
shelving rocks, which again give place to links and sands as Elliot
with its golf course and Arbroath are approached.
About a mile beyond
the harbour of Arbroath we reach Arbroath Ness, the beginning of the
cliffs which render this in many ways the most interesting part of
the coast. At the Ness is St Ninian’s holy well, a favourite pilgrim
resort in former times. Close by is the site of St Ninian’s—locally
St Ringan’s—Chapel. In 1842 a wonderful stalactite cave was
accidentally discovered in the Ness Quarry. Farther east is the
Needle’s Eye, a curiously perforated rock; and a great ravine,
called the Cruzie from its resemblance to an old Scottish lamp. At
the Blow Hole the sea waves rise in storms to the height of 150
feet. The Smuggler’s Cave, and Dickman’s or Dickmont’s Den, were in
the eighteenth century the haunts of smugglers. The Three Storied
House and the Mariners’ Grave are caves with names that tell their
own tales. A great shore stack, separated from the adjoining cliff
by a passage called Duncan’s Door, and one of the most remarkable
pieces of rock scenery on this coast, is variously known as the
Deil’s Head and the Pint Stoup. The Masons’ Cave, 231 feet by 12,
was long a place of meeting for the St Thomas Lodge of Freemasons.
Another is suggestively called The Forbidden Cave, into wh’ch,
according to tradition, a piper and his vvife, regardless of the
prejudice against entering its precincts, wandered never to return.
Perhaps the most awe-inspiring of the Arbroath caves is the Gaylet
Pot. This huge cavity, about 100 yards from the sea and in the midst
of an arable field, communicates with the ocean by a tunnel 130 feet
below the summit of the cliff. When in storm the sea rushes through
this subterranean passage and boils in the bottom of the crater-like
chasm, it strikes such horror into the beholder as he will long find
difficult to rid himself of.
Half a mile beyond is
the quaint village of Auchmithie, which disputes with the
neighbouring Ethie Haven the distinction of being the “Musselcraig”
of Scott’s Antiquary, as does the adjacent Newbarns with
Hospitalfield for being the original of the “Monkbarns” in the same
novel. Ethie House, near Auchmithie, is by common consent the
residence of “Sir Arthur Wardour.” The Red Head, 267 feet high, the
most imposing sea cliff in the county, terminates this rocky section
of the coast.
We now reach the fine
curve of Lunan Bay, the beautiful sands of which stretch for some
five miles from the Red Head to Boddin Point, where cliff's again
occur. Between this and Scurdie Ness at the mouth of the South Esk
there is to be seen on the shore the huge mass of the rock of St
Skeoch, called also the Elephant Rock from its striking resemblance
to that animal. High above on the cliff is that most romantic of
burial-places, the little churchyard of St Skeoch. The shore of Usan
Bay is strewn with rugged masses of rock. Round Scurdie Ness and
within the estuary of the South Esk is the prosperous fishing
village of Ferryden, opposite Montrose. Beyond the river a long line
of fine sands, flanked by the famous golf links of Montrose, extends
to the mouth of the North Esk, where the coast-line of the county
terminates. |