The flora of Britain
has been divided into four classes, each adapted to special climatic
conditions: (1) alpine; (2) sub-alpine; (3) lowland; (4) maritime.
When in far off days
the ice of the Ice Age was disappearing from Europe, Britain seems
twice to have been connected with the Continent by a land bridge.
Across this the vegetation of the Continent followed the retreating
ice. First came alpine forms, then sub-alpine, next lowland, and
finally maritime. The first two classes readily obtained a footing
in Britain, but while the two last were still crossing the land
bridge became submerged. At the next upheaval these forms effected a
crossing, and a severe struggle for existence took place between
them and their predecessors. The result was that the alpine and
sub-alpine species were forced into higher altitudes. Before every
species had crossed, the land bridge was again submerged. The
general trend of the advancing species was towards the north-west.
Consequently we find that the southern and eastern portions of
Britain have a greater variety of species than the north and west;
and for the same reason Ireland is poorer in species than Britain.
In Forfarshire all
the four classes are well represented, and few counties, if any,
surpass it in the richness and variety of its flora. This is chiefly
owing to its great diversity both of elevation and of soil. In the
long coastline many variations in soil conditions are found—the
muddy estuaries of the Tay and the South Esk, the stony beach, sand
dunes and links at Barry, Carnoustie, Elliot and Montrose, and the
cliffs from Arbroath to Montrose. Behind this and in front of the
Sidlaws we have a lowland region, which is largely defaced by
cultivation or laid out in towns and hamlets, but there are still
some patches of natural vegetation in such places as the Den of
Mains and the Birkhill Feus. The Sidlaw range furnishes admirable
conditions for the growth of sub-alpine varieties. Behind this again
is the long stretch of Strathmore, a second lowland region also
largely cultivated, but intersected with wooded dens, and traversed
by numerous streams whose sylvan banks provide special local soil
conditions adapted to the growth of plants requiring shade and
moisture. Behind Strathmore the ground rises gradually until it
reaches an altitude of over 2000 feet—sufficiently high for alpine
plants to grow.
Many very beautiful
specimens of seaweeds or algae may be collected at low tide along
the coast, especially on the beach at the foot of the cliffs. The
transition from salt water to fresh water mud-plants may be studied
at Invergowrie. The formation of firm soil from loose sand by the
binding action of the roots and underground stems of the sea couch
grass [Agropyron junceum) and the sea sedge (Carex arenaria) is in
evidence at Barry. An interesting feature in plant life which is
abundantly illustrated in Forfarshire is the similarity in structure
between the maritime cliff plants and the mountain plants, several
species being found growing on the cliffs and again in the mountain
solitudes, but nowhere between.
The influence of man
has come to be regarded as one of the conditions affecting plant
associations, and is classed along with climate and soil. The
cultivated land of the lowland area is divided into two regions—an
upper and a lower—according as wheat is grown or not. The lower
region is the region of wheat. The area of Strathmore presents a
great variety of woodland, partly cultivated, partly natural. In the
estates of Cortachy and Glamis, for example, we get specimens of
cultivated woodland consisting for the most part of deciduous trees.
Oak-woods clothe the river banks in the lower regions, and higher up
the shimmering birches enhance the valleys with their sylvan beauty,
as for example in Glen Prosen, Glen Clova, and Glen Esk. Large
tracts of Scots pine are found scattered over the county, notably at
Montreathmont Moor—remains of the extensive forests that formerly
clothed Forfarshire. At considerable elevations on the moorland the
larch is fairly conspicuous. The beech, the sycamore, the lime, and
the horse and Spanish chestnuts are common, but are not indigenous
as are the oak, the ash, the elm, the rowan, the hazel, and the
alder.
The vegetation of the
Sidlaws consists of sub-alpine plants ; heather being dominant on
the basalt and sandstone soils, for example, on Craigowl and
Auchterhouse Hill, and grasses on andesitic soils, where whin and
bracken are also plentiful. Amongst the heather areas there is a
marked absence, as a rule, of peat-bogs ; and on the grass-covered
hills it has been noticed that the grasses are coarser and stronger
on the north side of the hill than on the southern.
It is, however, the
mountain fastnesses, and high table-lands on the northern and
north-western borders of the county that are of special importance
to the botanist. There we find typical alpine vegetation, with its
low growth, small leaves of a fleshy or hairy nature, and wiry
stems. The commonest specimens are ordinary ling, various heaths,
blaeberry, cowberry, crowberry. Another mountain-dweller is Rubus
chamremorus, the cloudberry or avron. The alpine lady’s mantle (Alchemilla
alpind)
frequently forms a
green carpet. Five different species of saxifrage, and fifty species
of Saiix, chiefly alpine, occur in the county. The peat-bogs are
enlivened by brightly coloured mosses, and red glistening sundews;
and occasionally the white petals of the Grass of Parnassus spread
themselves out in unsullied purity above the black marsh.
The rarities of the
county are the snowy gentian (Gentiana nivalis) which is found in
the Caenlochan district, the only other recorded locality in Britain
being Ben Lawers. The same district is the home of such rare ferns
as the holly fern (Polystichum lonchitis), green spleenwort (Jsp/enium
viride), and Polypodium alpestre. The mountain brittle bladder fern
(Cystopteris montand) is very rare, but has been found in Glen
Caenlochan. Polypodium flexile has been met with in Glen Prosen, and
with the exception of Ben Alder this is its only known British
haunt. Two rare grasses, the alpine fox-tail grass Hopecurus alpinus)
and the alpine cat’s-tail grass (Phleum alpinum), are found on the
banks of the Feula burn. The red alpine campion (Lychnus alpind)
grows on Little Culrannoch, a hill northward from the head of Glen
Doll. So far as is
known this plant occurs nowhere else in Scotland, but a similar
plant has been met with on the crags of Helvellyn. In a ravine on
the south side of Glen Doll is found the blue alpine sow thistle (Mulgedium
alpinum)—a very rare species growing also on Caenlochan and on
Lochnagar. Glen Doll yields two other rare treasures—Oxytropis
campestris, a small vetch with no other habitat in Britain; and the
alpine milk vetch [Astragalus alpinus), found only here and on the
Braemar hills.
Mosses and ferns are
well represented in Forfarshire, indeed this county has a greater
number of species of mosses than any other county in Great Britain,
Perthshire alone excepted. Most of the common ferns abound; and
besides the rare forms already mentioned, the filmy fern (’Hymenophyllum
Wtlsoni) is got at the Reekie Linn, and on the Caenlochan mountains,
while the moonwort is abundant on the Links of Barry, and is found
in various other localities. The adder’s tongue (Opbioglossum
vulga-tum) is said to occur on Barry Links, but is rare. The royal
fern (Osrnunda regalis) has been found at Arbroath, Montrose and
Kinnaird.
It was not only a
fresh flora but also a fresh fauna that Britain received after the
ice sheet disappeared ; with this important difference, however,
that forms which could fly or swim were not checked by the
submergence of the land.
Forfarshire possesses
the common wild creatures of Britain. Rabbits and hares are
plentiful. In winter and early spring the white hare is a common
sight on the mountains and moors. These mountain hares belong to a
different species from the lowland hares. This species, which turns
more or less white in winter, is found throughout the palaearctic
region along with arctic plants, and its presence, often in isolated
positions, is regarded as one of the proofs of a former glacial
epoch.
Another inhabitant of
the mountains and moorlands is the red deer. Large herds of these
noble and beautiful animals roam over the hills, but unless taken by
surprise it is very difficult to see them at close quarters. Roedeer
are native but fallow deer have been introduced. Badgers are
gradually dying out. Stoats are abundant. Weasels, moles, hedgehogs,
and squirrels are common. Mice and voles and the grey rat are so
abundant as to have become a pest in some places. The grey rat has
almost extirpated the black, a few specimens of which, however, yet
remain.
On account of the
variety of environment, there is scope for mountain birds, for sea
birds and for cliff birds, while the dens and woods of the rural
districts are alive with countless varieties of our native
songsters—blackbirds, thrushes, finches, linnets, buntings, wrens,
larks, titmice, stonechats, whinchats, pipits, etc. The long-eared
owl, the brown, the white, and probably the short-eared, are native,
while three varieties of swallows along with the swift are summer
visitors. From the verdurous gloom of the spring-woods, one often
hears the clear call of the cuckoo and the cooing of the
wood-pigeon. Rooks and jackdaws are very numerous at all seasons,
and even the magpie has been seen, although rarely. Corncrakes,
partridges and pheasants are common in the fields. The capercailzie
is found in some places, and on high hills the ptarmigan. The
curlew, plover, grouse and snipe are common. Higher on the mountains
bird preys on bird ; the eagle barks from his lonely eyrie, the hawk
circles above his intended prey, and the sparrow-hawk pursues his
victim to death. Besides these we may see the buzzard, the kestrel,
and occasionally the peregrine falcon.
Aquatic birds are
numerous at the mouth of the Tay, on the links, sands, and cliffs.
Many of them are winter migrants, such as the scaup, pintail, and
widgeon, the blackheaded gull, and others. The tern or sea swallow,
a beaut'ful bird which skims over the surface of the water with very
rapid flight, is a summer migrant, whilst the arctic tern comes in
autumn. Along the cliffs and on the rocks at sea the gannet or solan
goose appears in spring and autumn. Vast colonies of gulls—common,
blackbacked, kittiwake and skua—razorbills, puffins, guillemots and
ducks of diverse kinds make the whole coast-line resonant with bird
life, while the storm-petrel warns the fisherman of a coming
tempest. The gulls do not confine themselves to the coast but fly
far inland ; and the blackheaded gull breeds on inland lakes and
marshes. The hooded and carrion crow are more common near the coast
than inland.
The marine fauna of
Angus is that of the east coast in general. Seals are plentiful in
the Tay estuary and can be seen at low tide basking in the sunshine
on the sand banks. Whales also have repeatedly visited the Tay, and
on more than one occasion have been attacked in the river at Dundee.
The well-known Dundee whale was of the humpbacked species (Megaptera
longimand). It was pursued and wounded at the mouth of the Tay, and
was subsequently found dead off the coast of Kincardine. Its
skeleton is preserved in the museum in Dundee. |