ROMAN ROAD. The old Roman
road, through Strath-more from the Tay to the Dee, crossed the North Esk at
the Kingsford (a modern name), and passed through the south and east side of
the parish. Traces of Roman works remain on the farms of Dalladies and Capo,
probably for a temporary station of the army when crossing the river, and
held by some to be the station of Tina. From this point the road extended
along the drier ridges of Drumhendry and past Causewayend, on the line
marked by the "Cattle Raik" or "Cowpers' Avenue," still seen at Bentycrook;
whence the route was direct to the camp at Mains of Fordoun. Dr. William
Don, in his elaborate Archceological Notes, makes the Roman Iter pass
through the parish of Marykirk, with a branch to Kincardine Castle. If so,
what of Causewayend, which means the end of some stone-paved roadway over
the adjoining bog, and made, as supposed, only by the Roman legions.
Hill of Esslie. This height,
now crowned by its stately beeches, was no doubt in ancient times a site of
importance. Alongside the Roman road it might form an outpost. Except a few
boulders lying about, nothing is left to indicate whether any house or
castle stood there. But tradition reports that there was an old castle and a
garden. It may have been in the fifteenth century the local residence of the
Livingstones of Drumhendry. According to the Memoranda of the late James
Middleton Paton of Montrose, his ancestor, Andrew Middleton of Pitgarvie and
Balbegno, factor on the Middleton estates, resided at Esslie. And midway
between it and Balbegno stood the old house of Balmain (the Midtown), which,
according to a vague tradition, communicated by an underground passage with
Balbegno, and had its site on the rising ground east of the present
farmhouse, where its foundations were come upon at the trenching of the
field about eighty years ago.
Greencairn. The Castle of
Greencairn, previously noticed as the residence of Fenella, was originally
an ancient fort, erected at a very early period, probably by the first of
the Celtic race that peopled the land, at their invasion of western Europe.
Like some other strongholds of the same character, and partly like that on
the hill of Finhaven, it consisted of a central building with vitrified
walls, and an outer surrounding rampart or erection of dry stones, enclosing
a wide open-air space, and affording protection and security to the
indwellers and their goods in times of danger. At such times, communication,
by means of beacon fires as signals of alarm, could be held with all the
hill-forts within view in Angus and Mearns. In these two counties the only
other vitrified fort is that of Finhaven, and the reason may be that upon
the other hills fire-wood was scarce or the stones were not sufficiently
usible. At Greencairn some scattered fragments of its walls may still be
seen. Parts of these walls, in the early years of the century, stood a foot
or two above the surface; but they soon shared the fate of other old castle
walls; they were quarried by some local Goths and Vandals for stones to
build dykes and farm steadings. The huge stone ramparts of Catterthun
escaped demolition only because they were too far up the hill and too
difficult to remove. In Chalmers's Caledonia the ruins of Greencairn, as in
1798, are described, and their dimensions are given, from a report by James
Strachan, gardener to Lord Adam Gordon, as follows:—
" It is of an oval form, and
is surrounded by two ramparts. The outer rampart is built with dry-stone,
without any lime or mortar, And without the least mark of any tool; and
under the foundation are found ashes of burnt wood. The space betwixt the
outer and inner ramparts measures 93 feet 9 inches. The inner wall is 30
feet thick, and has all undergone the operation of vitrification. The area
within this is 140 feet long; 67 ft. 6 in. broad at the east end; and 52 ft.
6 in. broad at the west end. The elevation (of the site) on the north side
is about 40 feet, and fully 60 feet on the south side, where it is all wet,
mossy ground."
Additional information
regarding the ruins of Fenella's Castle is furnished by means of an
unpublished letter of Sir Walter Scott, written after his visit to Dunnottar
and Fettercairn in 1796, and addressed to the Rev. Mr Walker, minister of
Dunnottar. His son-in-law and biographer, J. G. Lockhart, states that " the
visit was to the residence of the lady who had now for so many years been
the object of his attachment"; and alludes to the said letter, which is now
in possession of Miss Paterson of Birkwood, Banchory, who has graciously
favoured the writer of these pages with a, perusal and the liberty to enter
it here verbatim, as follows:—
"My Dear Sir,
"I take my first moment of
disengagement to let you know the result of my enquiries at Lady Finella's
Castle, which is-in my opinion at least decidedly in favour of Tytler's
opinion. I was detained at Fettercairn House by the hospitality of Sir John
and Lady Jane two or three days longer than I expected, from which you will
easily guess Miss Belsches was recovered and able to see company. Thus I had
plenty of time on my hands, which I employed in causing two labourers begin
at the ring or vallum immediately without the main compact, and cut down
till they came decisively to the original soil. This outer embankment I
found to consist of a mound of stones of no very considerable size, none of
which, as far as I could perceive, had suffered from fire, tho' I have upon
this as well as several other occasions to regret my want of chemical and
mineralogical knowledge sufficient to enable me to decide with certainty. We
then continued opening our trench, still digging down to the soil, till we
came to the very foundation of the main and innermost Bulwark. You may guess
my satisfaction when on laying this bare I found the most unequivocal marks
of human industry. It consists of oblong flat stones from 4 to 6 feet long,
piled above each other to the height of about 4 feet and breadth of 3, with
symmetry more exact than could have been expected. This foundation formed a
kind of casing within which were piled, apparently by the hand, large bullet
stones, which, I presume, were prevented from spreading inwards by a similar
pile of large flat stones corresponding to that on the outside, and thus a
firm foundation had been obtained for the mound to be raised above, which,
as far as it now remains, consists of Bullets, etc., diminishing gradually
in size to the very top. Upon all this mass the effect of fire was very
visible, and at the bottom I found quantities of charcoal, but these effects
were much less remarkable below, and appeared more and more strong upon the
higher stones till you came to the top, where the mass-was completely
vitrified. Thus the whole was probably constructed as follows: First two
walls of large flat stones were erected parallel to each other at a distance
corresponding to the height of rampart, of which this was to be the base;
that rampart I take to have been composed of branches of trees and stones,
the latter gradually diminishing in size from that of the large round
bullets which occupied the interval between the two casing walls of the
foundation to a size which could be more conveniently raised to the height
of the top of the mound. Supposing such a fabric to be surrounded by 3 or 4
external ramparts of loose stones, it wd compose such a fortification as I
take the fort of Balbegno to* have been when entire. Again supposing it to
have been stormed and set on fire, it is obvious that the lower part being
composed of huge stones would suffer little from the heat, that the middle
would suffer more, and that the stones composing the uppermost part of the
mass would, if their substance admitted it, be actually vitrified, both from
their size and situation, the fire always-Operating upwards, for the same
reason what charcoal found itfr way to the bottom of the mass would not be
totally consumed ; and thus I account for the appearances I have detailed
above. My works are already almost filled up with rubbish and some of
the-foundation stones carried off, but I am convinced you will find upon
examination that the appearances are uniform.
"I am dying to hear about the
Well at Dunottar, &c, &c, &c I am likewise anxious about my old Ballads; and
I hope you will add to the many favours I have already to acknowledge, that
of writing me very soon. My address is Georges Square, Edinr-Compliments to
Mess™ Logie and Wood. I hope they do not faint-in the good work; if so, I
refer them to you for strength and consolation.
"I have visited a beautiful
ruin called Eagle (Edzell) Castle, and was delighted. I have seen Caterthun,
and was astonished.
"I hope this will find your
whole famille from Nelly to Macgriegar inclusive in good health. Meantime,
we do most strictly charge-you and command to keep an account of the Well
expenditure, and transmitt it to us for a settlement of Accot8; and so we
bid you heartily farewell.
"Given from our Inn at
Kinross the sixth day of May, (1700) and ninety-six years.
"Walter Scott."
The accompanying fac-simile
illustration of the fourth page shows how letters were folded and addressed
on the back before the invention of envelopes. The fig. "5" stands for
fivepence—as the postage from Kinross to Stonehaven to be paid by the
receiver.
REDUCED FAC-SIMILE OF THE LAST
PAGE OF SIR WALTER SCOTT'S LETTER
Of Fenella's Castle after the
murder of Kenneth, the only record is that of John de Fordun, who relates
that "the King's companions, missing him, broke into the house, and finding
that he was murdered, consumed the tenon with fire, and reduced it to
ashes." Whether the Ťastle was ever afterwards restored or occupied is a
matter of conjecture. The two hundred years that elapsed before the grant of
Balbegno lands by William the Lion to Ranulph the Falconer are a complete
blank in the history. Greencairn as a residence was very likely doomed, and,
instead of it, Balbegno, or the little new town, became the manor-place.
Other three hundred years elapsed before the building of Balbegno Castle;
and whether, during those five centuries, the seat of the feudal superiors
was at Greencairn, Balbegno, or elsewhere, cannot now be determined.
Balbegno Castle. The date
1569, the figures of two males and one female, the inscription "I. Wod and
E. Irvein" below a shield with the Wood and Irvine arms, all on a carved
panel above the highest front window of Balbegno Castle, show that it was
erected in the time of John, the second of the Woods, proprietors of
Balbegno And Thanes of Fettercairn. The building, which has been kept in
good preservation and recently repaired by Sir John R. Gladstone, is a fine
specimen of the old baronial style, four storys high with double oblong roof
and an open bartizan along the top and around its east side and corner. Upon
the bartizan are three medallion heads, one male with hat, and two females;
and upon other parts of the walls are several shields with arms, possibly
those of the founders of the castle. Over a side door of the garden is the
male bust, already described alongside its illustration, supposed to
represent the famous Admiral Wood, but it had no doubt a more honourable
place on the east front of the castle, and must have been removed by the
Ogilvys when, in 1795, they built the plain and homely addition, commodious
enough as a dwelling, but which spoils considerably the original building
from the covering up of the principal front entrance. Some stones bearing
the Wood and Barclay arms were also removed and carried to Caldhamer where
they may be seen stuck up in the wall of an outhouse. All the figures on the
castle are boldly carved in freestone, and in the style of the famous "Stirling
Heads." As Thanes of Fettercairn, the Woods bore, in addition to their
paternal coat of an oak tree, two keys fastened to a branch. The walls of
the building being fat or six feet in thickness and pierced with loopholes,
are significant of the times when it was built. The most striking internal
feature is the large hall with its groined freestone roof and ornaments,
some grotesque and others floral, one of which bears the Irvine arms. The
ceiling has two shields, one with the Scotch lion and the other with the
Wood arms. The sixteen vaulted compartments held mural paintings of the
coats and mantlings of as many Scotch peers. Damp and decay have defaced the
most of them, and have obliterated the very names and titles, which may be
noted as follows:—Over the door on the right is, 1, Lauderdale or Wemyss(?);
2, blank; 3, Montrose; 4, (?); 5, Erie of Orkney; 6, Gordon(1); 7, Erie of
Murray; 8, blank; 9 and 10, blank. On the south side, 11, Both well; 12,
Argyle; 13, Crawford; 14, Errol; 15, Eglinton; and 16, blank.
Every feudal castle had its
dungeon; and so had Balbegno its dark underground cell, entered from a back
passage by a massive wooden door of oak studded with large-headed iron
nails, which, with its heavy bolts and strong locks, defied any attempts to
escape of the poor wretches therein immured. Every old castle had likewise
its Motehill (Mod, a court), where the feudal baron held his court and
judged all civil and criminal cases arising in his own district. This
heritable right of jurisdiction was abolished after the Rebellion of 1745.
Criminal offenders were executed— the men by hanging on the Motehills, now
known as "Gallowhills," and the women by drowning in the Mort-toun-holes, or
"Muttonholes" as these are now called. The Motehill of Balbegno was the "Tod-hillock"
of our day (Taed, Saxon, death)—the wooded knoll on the roadside between
Balbegno and Greencairn. It was no doubt the tribunal hill of the district
during the long ages that preceded the erection of Balbegno Castle and the
sway of the Woods. The Muttonhole was in the springy hollow of the field
above the present high road, and about a hundred yards right across the same
from the Tod-hillock. Thirty years ago, a group of old cottar houses,
formerly croftsteads, on the same spot were cleared off for the plough. They
were known as "Muttonhole." The "Taed'sNest" (hangman's dwelling) was the
name of a small croft and homestead razed out about the same time. It
occupied the adjacent roadside corner of the park nearer the castle.
"Randall's Knap," east of the village, as already noticed, may have been
Earl Middleton's motehill.
Balfour House. The old house
of Balfour, which stood on the spot now occupied by the present farm
steading, was a plain two-story edifice, of large dimensions, and was built,
as supposed, by the Stratons, proprietors, in the seventeenth century. After
the estate was sold to Sir Alexander Ramsay Irvine, the house, somewhat
antiquated and with no tenant, fell out of repairs, and, in 1809, was pulled
down for its stones to the building of Fasque House. The strongly built
walls had to be blasted with gunpowder.
Fasque old Mansion-House. The
flat space, west of Fasque House, now laid out as a bowling green and flower
garden, was the site of the old mansion-house and offices. They are quaintly
described, as in 1780, by Francis Douglas in his East Coast of Scotland,
thus:
"Fasque House stands a long
way distant from the main entry,. and is partly eclipsed by a large group,
nearly in front, of old Gothic buildings, churches, abbeys, &c. As the
antiquary approaches, with reverence and high expectations, how cruelly is
he disappointed to find them a mockery! Mere patchwork on the ends and
sidewalls of common offices ! ' What an indignity,' he is apt to exclaim, '
is here ottered to the venerable remains of antiquity ! O ye sacred retreats
of virtue and purity, in whose peaceful groves wisdom and science walked
hand in hand; shall even your shadows be thus dishonoured by the breath of
clowns and bellowing of oxen.' Chagrined by this disappointment, it is well
if he does not mistake a fine octagonal tower which lifts its head above the
trees, on an adjacent mount, for a pasteboard cage. The house fronts south,
and makes three sides of a square; there are many good apartments in it,
especially the dining-room and library. Just by the west end, there is a den
or hollow, with a Chinese bridge thrown over it, and a small brook in the
bottom. It is planted and laid out in serpentine gravel walks. The house is
well sheltered on all quarters, especially on the north and north-west."
Balnakettle House. The old
house of Balnakettle stood, where some old trees remain, some distance east
of and nearer the burn than the present farmhouse. Of its appearance, as a
proprietary dwelling in the early part of last century, nothing is now
known.