This thriving town is fully
two miles to the south-west of Lundin
Mill, and is on the eastern bank of
the River Leven, just where it pours its waters into the Firth of
Forth.
The Name
given to it in Blaeu’s
Map is LeauinsMouth, which is certainly very appropriate so far as
the situation is concerned; and, on the same map, a place to the
north-east is marked as South Leauin. But the simple
name of Leven is found at an earlier date.
Burgh of Barony.—In
the old Statistical Account, drawn up in 1791, it is said
that "the only village in the parish (of Scoonie) is Leven,
which belongs to the barony of Durie." And in the New
Statistical A ccount, prepared in 1836, it is stated, that,
"the town of Leven is a burgh of barony holding under the family
of Durie; but, having no local government till very lately, it
possesses no records, and there is nothing worthy of remark in its
history." The Record edition of the Acts of Parliament
shews that Archbishop Gladstane granted to George Lauder, in 1609,
the port and haven of Leven, and the town and burgh of barony of
Leven, with customs and duties belonging thereto. This charter was
confirmed by the King in the same year. In 1619, Archbishop
Spotswood conveyed them to Gibson, and both Gladstane’s charter
and his were ratified by Parliament in 1621. In 1672, an Act was
passed, in favour of John Gibson of Durie, altering the days of
the two yearly fairs, which were held at his town and barony of
Leven.
Churches.—A
brief account of the parish ministers is given in the chapter on
Scoonie. The present parish church, which was built in or about
1775, was described by David Swan, in 1791, as "a neat and modern
building, with a spire,..... . . . in the immediate neighbourhood
of Leven, being more convenient for the greater part of the
parish, than the old situation at Scoonie, which is about half a
mile distant." At that time it was seated for about 700; but, in
1822, the heritors, "in the most liberal manner," enlarged it to
hold 1000. "The interior of the building," says Brewster, "was
completely renewed, and there are few country churches so
comfortable, either for preacher or hearers." To a stranger, it
resembles a conglomeration of barns, big and little, attached to a
steeple; and the most recent addition is like a new patch in an
old garment. The other churches—Free, U.P., and Episcopal—are all
quite close to it, and are tasteful modern buildings. In 1791,
there were not above 150 Dissenters in the whole parish ; and, of
these, nearly one half were Burghers, 35 were Anti-Burghers, 34
belonged to the Relief, 2 were Independents, and 3 were
Episcopalians. At that time there were no begging poor in the
parish, and the people in general were "sober, industrious and
thriving." In the words of their appreciative pastor:-
"If any behave in an irregular and disorderly
manner, they are avoided by their neighbours, it being reckoned
discreditable to be seen in their company. They are social in
their tempers, liberal in their sentiments, respectful to their
superiors, and hospitable to strangers; regular in attending upon
the public institutions of religion, and remarkable for external
decency in the house of God. Few people are more compassionate to
the indigent, or contribute more liberally to their support, not
only by their public collections, but by private donations. Such
as separate from the Established Church have little of that
reserve or moroseness, which is the general characteristic of
separatists. of almost all denominations. There have been, as in
all societies, some idle, worthless persons among them; but in the
memory of man, there has not been one convicted of a capital
crime." It was "no small advantage" of these exemplary people that
they had "no connection with corporation or borough politics,
which, for the most part, are attended with such bad effects upon
the industry and morals of the people." The in-dwellers, however,
of this little earthly paradise were not without their own
troubles. "As Leven is a thoroughfare from the west to the east
coast of Fife, the inhabitants are much oppressed with beggars and
vagrants." Liberally as they gave to their own deserving and
unobtrusive poor, they complained that they had to give three or
four times more to the importunate wanderers. In spite of David
Swan’s eulogy, his parishioners did not conduct their funerals
properly, which is thus referred to by his successor, in 1836:-
"When the present incumbent came to the parish, it was
customary to have at least three services, but often more—one of
spirits with bread and cheese, and two of wine with cake and
biscuit. This not only occasioned much delay, but entailed a heavy
expense upon poor families, which, at such a season especially,
they were little able to bear. Now the services are altogether
discontinued; the procession commences precisely at the hour
appointed; and it may be recorded to the credit of the community,
that, generally, they entered most readily into the new
arrangement." By.this time, however, if they had become rnore
plausible, they had also become more reckless, for Brewster
complains that, the annual fairs, which had "dwindled into petty
markets for toys and sweet-meats, ... . .
are often made an occasion, by many of the working-classes,
for dissipation and disturbance;" that the
great number of licensed houses "tended much to demoralise the
people;" and, that, "though much wanted, there is no prison in
this parish, nor even a lock~up-house!" The Dissenters, too, had
increased with the population, for they now numbered 827; and
there was both an Independent, and a. Relief Chapel. The latter
was built in 1831 ; and the congregation is now, of course, a U.P.
one. Their present church was opened on the 20th of September
1871, by Dr R. S. Drummond, and their liberality was shown by
their collection that day, which amounted to £166.
The Town Hall is as plain and ugly a
building as any one need wish to see, and presents a striking
contrast to the handsome public school, which is hard by.
The Greig Institute would be a most
effective building, if it were better seen, but the neighbouring
houses shut it in. The four principal rooms are, a billiard-room,
a class-room, a reading-room—supplied with papers and
periodicals—and a library containing about 2000 volumes. There is
also a bath-room. Visitors are charged 2s per month. The names of
the chief contributors, and the extent of their donations, are
duly displayed over the entrance. As Mr Greig, of Glencarse, gave
most, the building was named after him. It was opened on the 14th
of January 1874.
Harbour and Fishing.—Judging from
Gladstane’s charter, there must have been some traffic, or the
prospect of it, at the port and haven in 1609. In 1791, Swan says,
"There are 6 trading vessels of from 90 to 140 or 150 tons,
belonging to this port, employed mostly in the Holland and East
sea trade. There is no port on the coast of Fife better calculated
for the timber and iron trade, having easy access, by roads
perfectly level, to a populous adjacent country; and the head of
the river affording a safe and commodious harbour." Prior to 1836,
a small quay had been built, where ships were unloaded; but it was
"altogether insufficient for the increasing trade of the port." A
few years ago, an extensive dock was constructed, which, with the
relative works, cost about £40,000; but it has since been sold at
a much lower figure. There is little fishing carried on here, for,
according to the Report of 1883, there is only one boat and two
men.
Past and Present.—The Leven of 1886,
except in its situation, is altogether unlike the Leven of 1791;
although at that earlier date the signs of future prosperity were
beginning to manifest themselves. Linen was then the chief
manufacture, there being about 140 looms in the parish. In the
near neighbourhood of the town there was "an extensive
bleach-field," at which sixteen or eighteen people were employed,
and the business was yearly increasing, as the prejudices against
public bleaching daily wore away. There was also "a considerable
roperie established," and there were a goodly number of
shoemakers. House rents ran from 10s to £8. The turnpike, from
Kirkcaldy to the East coast of Fife, passed the town at the
distance of about half-a-mile; and there was the speedy prospect
of having an excellent road from the shore of Leven to Cupar.
There was plenty of coals in the immediate vicinity, and peats
were rare. There was also a post-office in Leven, with a daily
arrival from Edinburgh, except on Monday, and a despatch every
day, save on Saturday. Happy people! but not without their
drawbacks. There was no bridge across the Leven nearer than
Cameron Bridge. They had to be content with two fords, which,
however, were always passable, except in high tides or great
spates; but, for the convenience of foot passengers, a coble
crossed near the town. Nor was there a bridge over Scoonie Burn.
Passengers by the great turnpike to the east had to ford it,
though that was often dangerous in winter, by the banks of ice
regorging the water, and occasionally perilous in summer by
floods. A few years before Swan wrote, a farmer and his wife, in
attempting to cross it on horseback, were carried down the stream,
and, but for timely help, would have been drowned. [Lamont
records a few facts which show that bridges were sadly missed in
his time. In December 1658, two lads, who had been at a funeral at
Largo, were drowned "in that bourne that comes downe betuixt
Hatton and Lundy." There was a bridge of a kind, but "the trie
being lowse, ther foote slipped, and fell in the water, so that
those that were present could not recover them, because of the
violence of the speate." The Lord’s Supper was dispensed at Largo
on the last day of July 1659, and that night such a rain came on,
that "few were abell to come to the Moneday exercise, because the
waters were not rydabell." And in May 1665, "one James Hendersone,
servant to Bessie Barclay, in Largo in Fyffe, perished in Levens
water, by taking the water on horsebacke, when the sea was in
above the ordinar foorde, a littel beneath John Strachans bachille
(i.e., a pendicle, or spot of arable ground) ther, wher
some women cryed to him, and forbade him to take the water. The
day after, he was founde amonge the craigs, and berried in the
chapel at the Methel."] How different now! The inhabitants
of that period would not recognise the place if they could be
brought back. Hand-looms are out of date. Public works are
multiplied even more than churches; and yet the place is extra
clean and tidy. Two different lines of railway come to the town,
and the Leven is likewise crossed by two substantial public
bridges—one stone and the other iron. The telegraph has been
introduced. There are three banks— Royal, National, and
Commercial. There is a large and admirably conducted hotel—the
"Caledonian "—whose courteous landlord is a general favourite; and
many excellent private houses. The people have nearly trebled
their number. In summer the streets and links are gay with
visitors. The Police Act has been adopted. A copious supply of
water has been introduced, and the drainage has been improved, by
which means the healthiness of the town has been greatly
increased.
The Links are on the east side of the
town, and the golfing course is a long one, as it also extends
over Scoonie and Lundin Links. There is a club-house at Leven. The
members of the Thistle Golf Club, which was instituted forty years
ago, play monthly for the Pattison Cross. There is also a Junior
Club for youths under 18, who play for a medal in August. As
Charles the Second came along the coast, in February 1651, "he
knighted Collonell Scot, In Levin sands, upon the head of his owne
regiment of horse, with his Louet.-Collonell also, both att one
tyme."
Inner-Leven, or Dubbie-Side, though on
the other side of the river, and in a detached portion of the
parish of Markinch, is regarded as a suburb of Leven. Previous to
1836, the ferry-boat had given place to "a handsome
suspension-bridge, for foot-passengers, by means of which," says
Brewster, "the village of Dubby-side is now, in a manner,
connected with the town of Leven. This improvement cost nearly
£500, which was raised in shares of 10s. 6d. each. A half-penny is
charged for each passenger; and the pontage is at present let at
£85 per annum." A painting of the old worthy, who in turn acted as
ferry-man, bridge-keeper, and water-carrier, is preserved in the
Greig Institute. Every dog has its day, and the suspension-bridge
— like the ferry-boat — has succumbed to a more serviceable
successor. There is a U.P. Church in this lengthy village.
According to Mackelvie:- "The members of several praying societies
in and about Leven acceded to the Associate Presbytery in May
1738, and a few more in May 1739 and in 1742. They attended public
worship after their secession at Abbotshall, Kirkcaldy, till 1744,
when, at their own request, they were joined to the congregation
of Ceres, which had then obtained a minister. The Breach in 1747
divided them; the majority of them adhering to the General
Associate (Anti-burgher) Synod, and continuing connected with the
congregation at Ceres. They sought to be disjoined from it in 1769
; but, in consequence of the opposition of the minister and
session, this was refused by the Synod, to which the case was
appealed, but the minister of Ceres was required to preach four
Sabbaths in the winter season at Dubbie-side, or some other place
in that district. Matters continued in this state till 1793, when
the members of the congregation of Ceres resident in Leven, Largo,
and places adjacent, were formed, under sanction of the
Presbytery, into a separate congregation." Andrew Nicol, "after
itinerating as a probationer for forty years," was ordained here,
in February 1855, as the third minister of this congregation. On
account of his age and infirmities, he demitted his charge in
1861, and died at Kinross ten years afterwards. The Inner-Leven
Golf Club was instituted in 1820, and has about 140 members.
Alexander Balfour, who died at Mount
Alyn on the 16th of April 1886, in his 62d year, and was buried at
Rosset. in Denbighshire, was a native of Leven, being a son of
Henry Balfour of Leven-bank. Few men have risen to greater
eminence in the mercantile world, or been more esteemed in it for
thorough-going integrity. Still fewer have left a more honoured
name for deeds of Christian philanthropy. His zeal, courage,
unselfishness, liberality, and unwearied devotedness have seldom
been rivalled. He was a partner in the same firm as Mr Stephen
Williamson, lately M.P. for the St Andrews Burghs.
The Population of Leven in 1791 was only
1165; in 1836, it was over 2000; and in 1881, including
InnerLeven, it was 3067.
Click here to see
pictures of Leven
