It is usual fur visitors
to proceed to the Hermitage, after inspecting the home grounds; in
compliance with which, the whole of the scenery on the south west side
of the Tay will now be pointed out wherever that is necessary. To view
it properly, it would require far more time than is ever allotted to it.
In proceeding to the
village of Inver for this purpose, the tourist must not pass unnoticed
the banks of the Braan, and the beautiful wooded field lying between it
and the Tay, which, in any place less profuse in beauty, would itself
form an ornamental park of no small importance. If afford" a fine view
of the cathedra!and an evening walk round it will not disappoint the
visitor; particularly if, like Isaac Walton. he can meditate sweet
thoughts with his angle or his tlj in his hand.
At a tarn of the road
immediately before descending to the bridge of the Braan, there is a
beautiful scene, affording a most perfect composition for a picture; and
which assuredly no one who carries a portfolio, In these days of
universal accomplishment, will pass without a record. It requires but a
moment, to lose, as to find, the right point of view; but the
experienced need not be told, that their eye must ever be on the alert
amid scenery of this class. The bridge, occupying the centre of the
picture, and lying vertically below the highest rocky point of Craig
Vinean, is a seaman's mark that cannot fail. An artist also will soon
discover, that, from various points, the bridge itself, surrounded as it
is by trees, and the beautifully-wooded banks of this rapid river, w ill
afford him some very pleasing and profitable occupation.
It would be unpardonable
not to diverge s few yards from the road at this place, for the purpose
of obtaining by much the most extensive and magnificent view which
Dunkeld any where affords, though scarcely reducible to the limits of a
picture. The point in question will be found by ascending a piece of
very steep hilly road at the left hand, for a few hundred yards, and has
hitherto been unknown to visitors. The wooded masses of Craig-v-barns
are here seen in a very advantageous manner; towering high above all the
surrounding objects, and with an outline more flowing and graceful than
from any other point of view. Sweeping away to the eastward in an
endless succession of woods, this range gradually blends with the more
distant mountains, till these are lost in the blue distance; its broad
grey faces of broken rock towering high over the King's pass, end
contrasting finely with the dark green of the trees that spring from
every crevice, and with the solid masses of the same colour which
surround them on all sides. Towards the eye. wood surmounting wood in
endless variety of form and colour, descends to the Tay, varied by open
and undulating ground, in which groups and scattered trees serve tourile
the whole into one harmonious mass. The course of the Braan, the
romantics village of Inver, and the bridge beneath the eye involved in
dark and luxuriant foliage, form the middle ground of a scent scarcely
any where to be equalled iri splendour of ornament and grandeur of
character.
It will gratify those who
have never traversed extensive woods, to prolong their expedition from
this point, through the great fir plantations which cover the whole of
this hill, :in a through which there . re numerous and good roads There
is a silence in the uniformity of these interminable solitudes which is
almost appalling, and which may remind us all of what we have read
respecting the wide wildernesses of America While we may enjoy the
effect without sacrifice, without fear from savage bears or more savage
men, and with the security of a feather bed at night, instead of a couch
of sticks and stones under the canopy of night and heaven.
The waterfall at the
Hermitage is the great object of attraction to the people. as
white-falls, like caves, ever have been, and ever will be, to those who
admire only what is marvellous or surprising, and whose taste for real
beauty in nature is yet to be formed : a class including nine tenths of
those who visit this place, or any place, seeking, too often in vain,
for that which, like happiness, must have its seat, at least, laid in
the mind.
However, the fall of the
Braan is something better than mere smoke, and noise, and foam, and
confusion. There is enough of these, fortunately, to gratify those who
see no further into a waterfall than its height and its breadth, its
rumbling and its rainbows: and there is abundance besides, of all that
renders such an object really interesting; a picturesque disposition of
the water as to the forms, rocks of decided character, appropriate
colour, and breadth of mass; solidity, as well in the light and shadow
as in the colouring; and ail the adventitious ornament of deep wood,
scattered shrubs, and bold trees; without which, the finest cascades but
an insipid object after the first wonder has subsided.
Too much praise cannot be
given to the taste which threw over this dark and deep chasm, the highly
picturesque bridge, with its unexpected and effective gateway, that
crosses the river, which, after quiting the fall, runs black and silent
below. This is the object which unites the whole into a picture, even
far more perfectly than the cascade ; and, by a due use of it, the
artist will find at least three subjects for his pencil, which he will
have cause to regret if he does not carry away, instead of wasting his
labour on that which, though drawn an hundred times, never did, and
never can, make a fit subject for painting. How often the whole scene
has been disgraced by the publication of the most contemptible
aquatintas, and by selecting the only object that ought to have been
omitted, need not lie told. As it is the fate of the Marlboroughs and
the Nelsons to be executed on every sign-post in the kingdom, so it is
the misfortune of the finest scenes, like the finest fruits, to attract
those whose contact only serves to contaminate them.
It is unnecessary to
dwell on the beautifully sequestered walks of this charming spot, as
they must be obvious to all eyes. The interior of the elegant zoom
called Ossian's Hall, with its finely-executed arabesques, will also
attract every one's attention. The propriety of placing such a building
in such a place, is an eternal subject of discussion to visitors, and
often enough, as might be foreseen, of censure. The exterior is so
little seen that it ran give little offence, amid scenery of so grand
and overwhelming a character; and as to the interior, I know not what
prevents an elegant, room from being elegant every where, nor what
advantages are gained by sitting down on a damp stone and under rotten
leaves, among rheumatisms and ear-wigs, when we may enjoy the comforts
of light and air, of painting and architecture, and commodious
furniture, in addition to cheerful society, and to that which even the
admirer of a damp hermitage docs not despise—a good dinner.
The reader must not,
however, imagine, that this building is the Hermitage, or that twenty
mirrors were placid for the purpose of reflecting a matted beard and a
dingy cassock. A hermitage of this fashion would be like the solitude
which some one must partake, that we may be able to say, How charming is
solitude! The true Hermitage is situated a little further on, and is
quite comfortless enough to satisfy the warmest ambition on this
subject. The young and gay indeed, crowding into it from the heat of a
noonday sun, may exclaim—What a charming and cool retreat! how delicious
is solitude I how delightful to be a hermit, and to pass a life of
contemplation in listening to the waterfall.'
It happens to many
travellers in Scotland to visit what is called the Cauldron Linn, on the
Devon. They may see similar cauldrons here and in a situation which, to
those who deal in geological pursuits, is still more interesting. They
are situated just in front of the dour of Ossian's Hall. and it is very
plain that they are excavations which have been formed by the cascade, n
hen the river ran in a very different place from what it does now. It is
easy to see how far backwards it has corroded the rocks since that
period; but it is not so easy to determine at what height it .r list
have then fallen from above. Whatever that has been, it must have been
considerable, and it will afford an amusing reflection to a geologist,
to consider what the state of this valley was at such a period, and to
compute the vast mass of matter which must have been carried forward
along its whole bed, to the Tay, and ultimately to the sea. To the
contributions of the Braan, among many other streams;, is Scotland
indebted for its Carse of Gowrie
The Humbling Bridge,
thrown across the Braan about a mile from this place, higher up the
stream, forms another object to which visitors arc very properly
directed. The character of the river is here far different, as it runs
entirely in a narrow and very deep chasm, and with, comparatively,
Little accompaniment from the surrounding scenery. The fall which the
water makes just above the bridge is striking, from the depth of the
chasm chiefly, though its own form is good: and a huge fragmented rock,
which has so fallen down the fissure as to have produced a natural
bridge across it, adds much to the interest of this little scent . It is
on the other side of the bridge, however, or downwards, according to the
stream, that the most picturesque view is obtained, simply by quitting
the road for a few yards. Here, the area is seen in a very favourable
position, thrown across this chasm, which at this place also is
beautifully ornamented by trees starting from the crevices of the rocks,
and forming altogether a most happy combination for a picture.
There is nothing to
induce the traveller to proceed further up Strath Braan, unless this
should happen to be his road. But he must now be conducted, since this
book has undertaken to lie his guide, through the remainder of the
scenery on this side of the Tay; whether or not he may find time or
inclination to realize, in act. that of which he can here only read.
Many walks, mutually
communicating, arc cut along the woody face of Craig Vinean: all of them
giving very fine and commanding views, both of the grounds of Dunkeld
and of the distant scenery to the northward. It is not, however,
necessary, for thi« purpose, to traverse them all It is right that they
should be there ; but two or three hours of the visitor's time will put
him into possession of as much of the character of the whole as can be
necessary for his purpose. The principal points of view arc marked by
rustic seats, and therefore need not be further described; and the
general nature of the views which they yield, will be apprehended from
the notice of one or two which will immediately be given. Of the more
distant points, the Roebuck Seat, placed at the further extremity of
these woods, demands more time than is easily allotted to this part of
the grounds but the visitor should ascend, at least as high as the
Spruce Walk.
It is easily apprehended
how the more elevated positions may represent the same scenes under
different aspects, not only from differences in the perspective, but in
the nature of the foregrounds; but as far as the objects of an artist,
and indeed of most spectators, are concerned, the best elevations are
about the level of the seat called the Craig Vinean Seat. This
particular spot affords a view which may serve for a specimen of the
general character of this scenery, and which indeed exhibits it in the
greatest perfection as a picture, although a more perfect detail of the
distance is obtained from the higher elevations. This distance consists
in a portion of Strath Tay, terminated by the Highland mountains, as
formerly seen from the lower grounds ; and the eye is gradually
conducted to it by a retiring vista, formed, on one side, by the long
sweep of the woods of Craig Vinean, and, on the other, by the bold
ascent of Craig-y-barns. The high road, winding along, deep among the
surrounding woods, and skirted by fine oaks, serves further to conduct
the eye through the picture, and to render more striking, by separating
them, the balance of the opposite parts. The woods on the left, here
offer a very unexpected and beautiful appearance to those who had before
only contemplated their deep uniform mass from the home grounds. The air
of solidity disappears : and instead of it, a succession of swelling
eminences, separated by deep dells of all forms, and intermixed with
grey precipitous rocks, continues to retire in a varied and broken
perspective; till, the spreading oak of' the fore-ground being followed
by others; all the variety of diminution, the far-protracted forest
melts gradually into the almost invisible woods, that rise dim along the
sides of the blue and distant mountains.
Beneath the feet, oak,
and birch, and ;:r, intermixed with swelling knolls of purple and brow n
heath and scars of grey rock, are thrown together in a confusion highly
characteristic of this species of scenery ; the dark brown Tay, emerging
from the rich oak-covered knoll of the Torwood, stealing along deep and
quiet beneath the elegant and wooded pyramid of Craig-v-barns.
Every change of position
here produces a fresh picture, to describe which would be as difficult
an office as it is an unnecessary one. It is sufficient that, the
spectator has been directed generally to those points which will assist,
instead of compelling, his taste; and, by saving some part of his
valuable time, aid his industry in making discoveries that will gratify
him the more that he is not called on for an expected or enforced
admiration.
But I cannot allow him to
quit these woods without carrying him, though at the risk of
encountering a few brambles, to a point whence he can see nothing bat
the pyramid of Craig-y-barns, surrounded by and embosomed in other woods
besides its own. There is a large oak, not far above the high road,
which will serve as a sort of guide to the true point of view ; but thus
far I must also dictate to him, that he is to descend till iie entirely
excludes the river. This is essential to the character of the view in
question ; as the horizontal line which it forms across the picture
entirely destroys the peculiar effect, by defining the otherwise
immeasurable altitude of that extraordinary pyramid which constitutes
the essence of the scene. There is just sufficient variety in the
outline of Craig-y-barns, as seen from this point, to take off that
dryness which a form purely mathematical might have given. A superficial
eye may think that the dark mass of wood which invests it, is too solid
and uniform ; but that of the artist, expert in giving value to
accidents and minute forms, will discover a beauty in the disposition of
the trees about it, in the contrasts of the lines which define these
woods, and in the occasional display of un-planted surface, grey rock,
scattered trees, and deficiencies of filling up, that render its surface
as exquisite in the details, both of form and colour, as its outline is
graceful and great. As the trees of the middle ground rise in height,
advancing in succession towards the eye, and mixed with bare heathy
knolls, broken banks, green glades, and scattered masses of rock, they
blend the distant hill with the immediate foreground ; the character of
the whole being throughout as consistent as if the whole scene lay on
the skirt of one woody and towering mountain. I need scarcely say that
this subject possesses a capacity for painting, as perfect, as the scene
itself is uncommon and magnificent.
The tourist will scarcely
be repaid for his trouble by proceeding farther along the high road
which here leads to Tavmouth and the westward, should this not form a
part of his plan. In that ease, it will be worth his while to visit the
waterfalls of Dalguise. But near the very point just discussed, the high
road itself offers one view of great beauty and grandeur, which he might
easily overlook if his attention were not directed to it. It lies
precisely where the road makes, at the same time, a sharp curve and a
slight descent; a high rock on the left, varied by scattered and
overhanging trees, and ornamented with all the profusion of shrubs, and
ferns, and wild flowers, forming the immediate foreground, and the peak
of Craig Vinean rising high against the sky, with all its woods and
rocks towering above each other, and retiring along the road in a
various and intricate perspective. The right band of the picture is
easily completed, at more point" than one, by some or other of the
numerous and luxuriant trees which skirt the whole road, flinging their
ancient branches in a thousand romantic forms across it.
To dwell no longer cn
that which must be left, for want of space and words to do it justice, I
must lastly conduct the visitor to the waterside, where he will find
much that is worthy of his attention—whether his object be only a
transient pleasure, or that more permanent one which he may carry away
in his sketch book, to re-excite, in the dreary solitudes of dingy
streets, the memory of the green woods, the dark rivers, the foaming
torrents, and the blue misty mountains of happier days.
He will find a path by
which he will be conducted, first from the high road to the waterside,
and afterwards back again by the margin of the water to Inver; this
being preferable to returning by the same way that he went to the
Hermitage. The uppermost point on the river which he need visit, is
known by a deep dark pool formed in the, hollow of a rock above the
house of the fisherman Mac Millan, Craig-y-barns here again forms a fine
object, which also produces a very good picture. Not to detail, however,
the various scenes which he may admire or sketch from this point to
river, I shall only further mention those at the ferry near Mac Millan's
house, with some that will be indicated by a large oak tree lower down
the course of the water, remarkable for the brilliant whiteness of its
trunk covered with lichens. The prying eye will find much more, but to
name every thing, would be to deprive the visitor of all the pleasures
arising from discovery. |