Before entering on these,
the traveller should ascertain the time which he can allot to the
objects of his pursuit. It is a common fault to desire impossibilities
in this matter; to expect to see by a glance of the eye, that which it
would requite many days to examine, and. in general, to lay plans for
doing what no industry could accomplish in so limited a time. It is in
vain to hope-to see this spot, in the manner in which it deserves to be
seen, in one day -: while even that short space is rarely given to it.
Two may be fully and profitably spent, even among the home scenes; and
those who are desirous of seeing them more perfectly, must allow three
days. If the time is limited to a single forenoon, as is common, the
traveller must be content to take a single walk in the home grounds,
and. possibly another at the Hermitage; but he will depart with very
inadequate ideas of the place. If he can allow two, the best plan that
he can adopt is to give up one to the Hermitage, the Humbling bridge,
and the various other scenes on the south and west side of the river;
while the second will be even more fully occupied, in the home grounds,
and in the nearer walks of Craig-y-barns. Those who chose to extend
their visit to three days, will not repent one spent in the more distant
walks and rides; including the new plantations above Craig-y-barns, St.
Columb's farm, and the Lochs of the Lowes.
The Lodge and the
Stables, built from the designs and under the superintendence of Elliot,
will first attract the spectator's notice, and may be taken as specimens
of the style of the intended house. The design for this is very
handsome, as well as chaste; to those at least who do not object to a
slight mixture of the castellated and the ecclesiastical styles of
Gothic architecture The erection being for the present suspended, the
want of a house commensurate, in extent and beauty, to the grounds and
to the rank of the family, is naturally an object of remark to those who
do not know that the present was erected a more temporary residence,
subsidiary to Blair, and in the reign of Queen Ann; long before the
capacity of Dunkeld for improvement was either understood or valued. The
present proprietor, in commencing, as every judicious improver should
do, by rendering the domain what it ought to be. and by preparing his
grounds to receive his house, thus forcing time into his service, and
availing himself of that which never sleeps, has left nothing to desire
but what a year or two may, at any time, render perfect. The grounds and
the house were once mutually appropriate; but the former, in advancing,
have loft the mere work of art behind.
The remains of the
ancient style in the grounds, have almost disappeared before the modern
improvements; though traces of it are still occasionally visible in a
few places which need scarcely be pointed out, Stanley hill, however,
which immediately meets the spectator on entering, is a very conspicuous
object; the incongruity of which would appear extraordinary to any one
who should imagine that it was the work of the same hand which rendered
Dunkeld what it now is. Aa a specimen of the taste of a former age. it
is a curiosity, and has been an expensive one.
Nor could it ever have
been a very legitimate specimen of that taste which carried the forms of
architecture into gardening, and which was often advantageously
displayed; although, from our running into the opposite extremes, it has
long been the fashion to censure that style, and to deviate from it as
widely as possible. Though the squared and sloped military aspect of
this mound is not very engaging to the eve, its walks are well worth
visiting ; as well for their seclusion, as for the prospects which they
afford over some parts of the grounds.
On the right hand,
visitors are general!y conducted through a curved walk, separated from
the lawn, and backed by a high wall of shrubbery, which is skirted by a
flower border, its length being nearly a quarter of a mile. Nothing
could have been more admirably contrived for a winter walk; being
sheltered from all the prevailing winds, and exposed to the full
influence of the mid-day sun. It would not be easy to find a lawn more
favourably disposed and better proportioned, and from which all
appearance of art is so completely banished. Every where, its boundary
seems to have been dictated by nature, as if it could have been no
otherwise disposed than it is; nothing appealing, as in the usual
lawning system of improvers, to point out the efforts by which this
object is attained; no nuked walls rising from it, as if they had been
brought from a distance and laid down on the turf: no hard line of wood,
cutting out the shape of the green carpet and defining its edge, as a
park wail might do with nearly as good an effect, nor any hard dry
clumps, making nature wonder what they are doing, and wondering
themselves "how they got there." As the unevenness of the surface
assists in conferring on this lawn that character of care, which art may
strive after in vain, so there are no tw o places in which its boundary
is similar; wide scattered trees of all kinds, dispersed about it, rod
variety without confusion, and ornament without the appearance of
design. Its prolonged and intricate form is a no less favourable
feature; as there is no point whence it can all be comprehended in one
view, nor scarcely any two trom which its general aspect is the same. It
is a rare thing to attain variety in this department of landscape
gardening: and still more rare to obtain the appearance of so much space
in a spot of such limited dimensions. The traveller must not emit
examining the two noted larches near the cathedral, as being not only
the first that were introduced into Britain, but the finest specimens
which exist. These were planted in 1738, having first been treated as
greenhouse plants, when introduced from the Tyrol, by Mr. Menzies, of
Culdares. There is little difference between the two, the height of the
highest being about 90 feet: while the lateral spread of the branches is
the same. At two feet from "he ground, the circumference is 14 feet 6
inches: and they are calculated to cont u l e^ch abort 300 cubic feet,
or six loads of timber. As they are still in perfect vigour, and far
from maturity, it may be expected that they will yet attain to far more
considerable dimensions.
The principal walk within
the home grounds follows the course of the river for nearly two miles,
when it tails in with a drive which holds the same course fo- about as
much more: issuing into the high road at St. Columb's Lodge. It is in
the traveller's option to follow the whole, or any portion; as there ere
many points whence he may return, by other paths of great variety : but
those who have time will do well to investigate the whole. Commencing
from the cathedral, this walk is accompanied by p shrubbery and flower
border, overhung with trees of various character, till it terminates in
an American garden, laid out with luxuriant specimens of rhododendron,
kalmia, and other analogous plants and shrubs, and beautifully sheltered
by surrounding trees, other paths branching away from it. From this
point it is resumed, under a diversity of character, till its
termination ; various seats, alcoves, and grottos being placed at those
points where the views are most interesting. The principal change of the
general character occurs where the Tay makes a right angle, beneath the
woods of Craig Yinean; as far at least as regards the views: but, in
itself it varies at almost every hundred yards, so as to keep the
attention always alive. Where this walk commences, a broad parallel
terrace of turf runs for some distance near to it, forming a bowery walk
of deep green shade, where the sun is moderated bv the dense foliage
that overhangs it, and which seems designed for solitude and meditation.
It is impossible for the imagination to conceive a scene of more
undisturbed repose. Shorter walks of a similar character, called the
Bishop's Walks, communicate from it with the lawn, which, on this side,
is further skirted by a similar green walk, lined by larch trees of fine
growth, and joining also with the American garden.
The views from this part
comprise chiefly the close scenery which bounds the river itself, the
more distant prospects being generally concealed, so as to add to the
seclusion of the scene. On both sides, the margins art: varied m every
possible manner; sometimes rough and broken by the force of the stream,
at others sloping down in green banks of endless forms; often, for a
long space, feathered over by overhanging shrubs and bushes, under which
the river glides, dark, silent, and smooth; while here and there some
marks of a work of art, which necessity or the remains of the ancient
grounds have left, serve to add, by contrast, to the interest and beauty
of the whole. An artificial cascade, remaining as a memorial of the
taste of our ancestors, will only offend those who, by reading Price,
and by-talking of Kent, and Brown, and Repton, have persuaded themselves
into a species of systematic orthodoxy in matters of picturesque beauty;
without having formed any definite opinions of their own on the subject,
and without knowing when rules are better departed from than followed
—as if all beauty could be reduced to an invariable canon, and as if the
resources of nature, and of art too, where it undertakes to modify the
landscape, were not infinite. It is true enough, however, in this
particular case, that the cascade has nothing to do with the landscape ;
and it is precisely in consequence of this utter distinctness of
character, that we may look at it without offence, as we might on any
other work of mere art. Had it made even an approximation to the
character of nature, then indeed it might have been a real blemish.
To the pencil, this walk
offers few objects. Nor is that defect at all inconsistent with the
greatest beauties. There can be no greater error, though it is one into
which artists frequently fall, than to imagine that there is nothing
beautiful but the picturesque, nor any thing to be admired but that
which may be rendered an object of admiration in a painting. On the
contrary, it often happens that there are no two things more at variance
than beauty in nature and picturesque beauty ; a fact which ought to be
far too familiar to require illustration. Nevertheless, some points
occur here, from which an artist may select at least two pictures of
very distinct characters, and which will, at any rate, be dwelt on with
admiration. Looking down the river, the bridge forms, from many
different stations, a very beautiful object; being distinctly projected
on the dark wooded hill beyond, and its breadth of ware, light being
increased by the reflection of the tranquil stream. The church of Little
Dunkeld, receiving a bright spot of light which acquires an increased
value from the trees among which it is shrouded, adds much to the effect
of the distance Thus is formed the centre of a picture; the sides of
which are constituted by the river banks, overhung by wood, and varied
with trees of every character, while the immediate foreground change at
every step; the general view itself undergoing many variations, as more
or less of the bridge is concealed by the trees which, on each side,
close in on the banks, and from the gentle undulations of its margin.
In looking up the Tay,
the view is of a very distinct and of a much grander character.
Different foreground may be procured for it from different points; and
the best positions are at the opposite ends of the American garden,
where the trees form admirable groups for that purpose. The bold sweep
of Craig Vinean here rises, a lofty and solid mass against the sky, to
form that which is, at once, distance and middle ground. its rocky and
uneven surface being disposed in varied forms, covered with rich wood of
every character, and reaching down to the water, over the tranquil
surface of which it throws a deep and broad shadow The dark river,
scarcely marked by a ripple, seems to rest in tranquil repose between
its wocidy banks, giving to the scene a solemnity like that of the
twilight; a single gleam of light at the extremity, separating it from
the profound shade of the woods from which it appears to derive its
mysterious origin.
In point of colouring,
the richness of ail this scenery is unexampled. There is a depth and
solidity in the general tone of subdued green which forms the mass of
colour, that is quite peculiar to this spot; while a thousand local
hues, infinitely diversified by demi-tints and reflections from the
surrounding masses, and by the brown and purple atmospheric colouring of
Highland scenery, vary, without interfering with, the breadth that gives
repose arid solemnity to the whole. Thus form and colour both combine to
give that air of grandeur so peculiar to this spot, and which is
rendered even more perfect by the deep-brown waters of the Tay, so
admirably harmonizing with the subdued tone of the whole. Though all
lights serve to display this river scenery, if with some variation, yet
always with beauty, it is perhaps never so striking as after sun-set, or
near to that hour. When the last gleam of evening illuminates the
bridge, it acquires additional interest from the repose which begins to
steal on all the surrounding colouring; and when Craig Vinean, on the
other hand, is under the shades of evening, the silence of that scene
acquires an additional solemnity, which a poet might truly call sublime.
The general, character of
this scenery does not undergo any material change for some time after
turning the angle formed by the river; the woods rising high on the
opposite side, and the walk being still conducted by the water's edge,
under the shadow of overhanging trees, and of the high mass of wood
which extends up the hill of the King's seat. 3ut the spectator must
remark a very picturesque scene, the place of which is indicated by a
rustic seat, and by a rude stair descending to a ferry boat; since it
forms a » very good subject for the pencil. For some time after this,
various pleasing views occur - the riiver still running under the deep
shade of the impending hill, skirted by oak woods and overhanging trees,
tiil at last, the walk emerging into the drive formerly mentioned, a
total change of character takes place.
The general scenery now
becomes more open , and though the lofty and wooded screen of Craig
Vinear still skirts the river for some space, and its banks are closed
in by woods and detached trees, the distance opens in a fine vista to
the blue ranges of the Highland mountains. That which was a narrow walk
has now become an open green road, unconstrained by hedge or boundary;
the wooded hills of Craig-y-barns rising high on the right hand, and the
river, on the left, working its way through at the varieties of close
woods, open meadow, impending deep banks, and gravelled shores. Ancient
beeches, and elms of luxuriant growth, skirting the track, or disposed
in accidental groups, serve to form foregrounds for innumerable
pictures; while they also diversify the walk, to which a deep ravine,
here and there descending from the hill, and filled with shrubs and
trees in picturesque confusion, adds fresh and frequent variety.
It is the peculiar
character of the grounds of Dunkeld, in most other places, to present
little else but close and wooded scenery. Suddenly emerging here from
the most magnificent and deepest scenes of this class, the contrast
afforded by the open heath and the distant blue of the mountains, is the
more striking. At the same time, the character of that distance is
perfect g the rich variety of the open v alley of the Tay displaying
itself in a perspective series of diminishing woods and trees, till it
is terminated by the elegant mount. in outline, of which Ben Vrackie
forms the most characteristic feature. Throughout the whole of this
portion of the walk, the artist will find many river scenes adapted to
the pencil, with choice of foreground in perfect harmony with the whole,
and with trees which, in themselves, might form studies for his
portfolio. As it would be endless to describe the whole of these, I must
limit myself to one, which it is the more essential to point out,
because the proper station for viewing it does not lie absolutely in the
path. It is to guide the tourist to that which he would not ot' himself
discover, that these pages were wiitten.
The proper station for
this view is on some high green banks which overhang the river to the
left of the road, and a few hundred yards short of St. Columb's Lodge.
By bringing a rustic birch summer house about two hundred yards to the
north of the spectator's position, the true point of view w ill be
easily found. The elegant outline of Ben Vrackie forms the middle of the
blue distance; and beyond, is seen, in fainter colours, the ridge of
Ben-y-gloe. To the left, the plantations of Dalguise descend gently into
the splendid valley of the Tay, wooded in gay and rich confusion; in the
middle of which the hill of Dunmore. crowned with dark firs, forms a
very characteristic feature. As the bright meandering line of the river
advances towards the eye, it becomes lost in the middle grounds among
numerous wooded inlands, displaying an intricate and dazzling mixture of
trees and land and water: till forcing its dark way on one side under an
abrupt woody hill, and skirting ou the other a tine expanse of green
meadow, bordered by trees, it rolls its huge volume of waters beneath
the lofty banks, which, high overhanging it, form the spectator's
station. To the right, the foreground, rising far above the horizontal
line, affords that mass of rich ornament so much valued by painters;
lofty Dunkeld and broken banks, crowned with noble beeches unfolding
beyond each other in retiring succession, while the road, which they
have thus separated from the river, is seen at intervals in an intricate
perspective above the eye, till it plunges among the ravines and woods
of the overhanging mountain. It is rare, indeed, that the painter (rill
find in nature a picture so perfect in all its parts : whether we regard
the contrast and variety of form which determines the composition, the
admirable balance and intricacy of colour which prevails, even from the
extreme distance to the nearest foreground, or the facility with which
the natural lights may be managed to produce brilliancy of effect. There
is scarcely a .;ne or an object which we could wish to remove or to
alter. |