The merry month of May,
having busked and brightened the earth with buds and blossoms, has
resigned her gentle sway, and June, the brilliant and the beautiful, has
fallen heir to the golden sceptre of summer. The furrowed fields are
waving in verdure^-each passing breeze awakening ripples of glossiest
green on the arable leas—while every meadow, every wayside, and every
dell, is mantled with bloom and redolent of many mingled odours. The
glory of spring has fallen from the apple bough, the pear has doffed her
garniture of snowy petals, and “ the beginning of the end,” the rich
promise of a Coming autumn, is plainly to be read among the orchard
leaves. In the woods, and by the living streams, we can trace by her
floral footprints the progress of the year. The snowdrop is now a thing
of memory, the fine gold of the primrose is waxing dim, and the
“Daffodil that comes
before the swallow dares,
And takes the winds of March with beauty,”
has fallen from her pride
of place, and until another spring is born, has ceased to claim the
homage of the wanderer’s eye. But ye are not missed, sweet flowers, amid
the scented crowds which now rejoice the golden noontide of the summer.
The regal rose begins to warm with her blushes the field and the gay
parterre; the hawthorn is freckled with foam-like tufts of bloom that
make rich the dewy gloamin'; and
“The pansy that looks up
Like a thought earth planted,"
is now arrayed in her
choicest of purple and gold. In our present wealth we forget, or but
faintly remember, the scattered blossoms, few and far between, which
were so priceless to us on the skirts of the departing winter. Nor do
our musical friends, the birds, seem one whit more grateful. Over the
blight they are even now singing as merrily as over the birth of the
sweet spring flowers. They are all married couples now, and having
feathered their nests and become the heads of promising families, there
is no end of their rejoicing. The lark is up at heaven’s purple gate
even before the stars have gone to rest, and the merle pipes so deep
into the gloamin’ that one could almost fancy he was desirous of
breaking the stellar repose, and recalling the midnight twinklers to the
sky. And what a blessing to those who can “rejoice in nature’s joy” are
the songs of the summer birds! For our own part, we have ever loved
these gladsome little wildings of the woods and the fields, and have
lent an attentive, and, we trust, an appreciating ear to their melodies.
Love is apt to beget song, and, long ago, we penned the following to the
BIRDS OF SCOTLAND.
Oh the birds of bonnie
Scotland,
I love them one and all—
The eagle soaring high in pride,
The wren so blythe and small.
I love the cushat in the wood,
The heron by the stream,
The lark that sings the stars asleep,
The merle that wakes their beam.
Oh the birds of dear old
Seotland,
I love them every one—
The owl that leaves the tower by night,
The swallow in the sun.
I love the raven on the rock,
The sea-bird on the shore,
The merry chaffinch in the wood,
And the curlew on the moor.
Oh the birds of bonnie
Scotland
How lovely are they all!
The oozel by the forest spring
Or lonely waterfall;
The thrush that from the leafless bough
Delights the infant year,
The redbreast wailing sad and lone,
When leaves are falling sear.
Oh for the time when first
I roamed
The woodland and the field,
A silent sharer in the joy
Each summer minstrel peal’d.
Their neats I knew them every one.
In bank, or bush, or tree,—
Familiar as a voice of home,
Their every tone of glee.
They tell of birds in
other climes
In richest plumage gay,
With gorgeous tints that far outshine
An eastern king’s array.
Strangers to song—more dear to roe
The linnet modest gray,
That pipes among the yellow broom
His wild, heart-witching lay.
More dear than all their
shining hues
The wells of glee that lie
In throstle’s matchless mottled breast,
Or merle’s of ebon dye.
And though a lordling’s wealth were mine,
In some far sunny spot,
My heart could never own a home
Where minstrel birds were not
Sweet wilding birds of
Scotland,
I loved ye when a boy,
And to my soul your names are link'd
With dreams of vanish'd joy.
And I could wish, when death’s cold hand
Has stilled this heart of mine,
That o’er my last low bed of earth
Might swell your notes divine.
But when we commence
talking about birds and flowers we are sure to forget ourselves. Our
mission this sweet summer day is an excursion to Helensburgh, Row, and
Rofieneath—three of the prettiest localities round the whole Frith.
Pleasant to our ear are their several names—pleasant to our eyes their
various aspects of beauty—and pleasant, indeed, to our memory are their
respective associations with the days of other years. Once more we are
bounding over the br6wn waters of the Frith, once more our heart leaps
up as the steamer rounds the picturesque promontory of Ardmore—that
bosky arm of beauty which the Cardross shore thrusts out into the stream
as if to stay its progress. Once again the green lawns, and the wooded
glades, and the brown swelling heights of Roseneath swim into our ken,
and once again the fair fkce of Helensburgh beams upon us from the sunny
shore, and mirrors itself in the quiet waters. We can see as of yore the
loungers sauntering lazily along the beach, or chatting in groups at the
old-fashioned and incommodious pier—the little children gathering shells
upon the sands, or wading in the foamy brine, with here and there a
yacht or a fishing-boat dancing over the waves. The picture, with its
framework of gently-swelling slopes and dark brown ridges—lofty in
parts, but somewhat monotonous in outline —is, on the whole, one of
great beauty and cheerfulness.
Helensburgh is a town of
comparatively recent origin, and has consequently but few attractions
for the disciples of Captain Grose, while it furnishes but a meagre
record to the historian. Those who delight in “auld howlet haunted
biggins,’ or who revel in the musty reminiscences of tradition, must
therefore betake themselves to other and more time-honoured localities.
The town was founded, and its ground-plan arranged, by Sir James
Colquhoun, in the year 1774. The wife of the said baronet was called
Helen, and it was in honour of his spouse that the infant community
received its name. Helensburgh is situated on a kind of natural terrace,
which slopes gently upward from the sea. It consists principally of a
lengthened line of houses, of one and two storeys, fronting the shore,
and straggling away in detached cottages embowered in gardens at either
end. The front row is intersected at regular intervals with lines of
streets running inward from the shore, and communicating with other
thoroughfares which run parallel to that in front. Few of the houses
have any pretensions to architectural elegance, but the majority of them
are whitewashed externally—a circumstance which gives the town a cleanly
and attractive aspect, especially when seen from the Frith, or from the
opposite shore. Near the centre of the front row or street, the pier at
which we land projects into the water. It is, as we have said, a shabby
and incommodious affair; in fact, utterly unworthy of the locality, and
an eyesore and an annoyance to every visitor. In certain states of the
weather it is positively dangerous; and it is to be hoped, for the
credit alike of the feudal superior and of the local authorities, that
it may soon be numbered with the things that were, and a structure
adequate to the traffic be erected in its stead. There are several
churches in the town, including one in connection with the
Establishment, a Free, an Independent, and an Episcopalian one. There is
also a number of schools sufficient for the requirements of the rising
generation. Nor need the visitor to Helensburgh dread any deficiency in
regard to his intellectual wants or his material necessities. There are
book-shops and libraries for the studious, while there are shops in
abundance for the sale of clothing and of all the ordinary creature
comforts. Some of these would even do credit to the western
thoroughfares of Glasgow. When we add that there are several really
comfortable hotels and abundant facilities for bathing, we think that
enough has been said to show that Helensburgh is a watering-place of
more than ordinary attractions.
On previous occasions we
have alluded to the services of Henry Bell, the individual who was the
first in Europe to apply the power of steam to the propulsion of
vessels. Helensburgh has the honour of having been the scene of Bell’s
experimental operations. Before his time the attempt had been made by
various parties, but in every instance without success, in consequence
of which the project seems to have been given up in despair. At this
juncture Bell took the matter in hand, and prosecuted it to a successful
issue. Having engaged Messrs. Wood of Port-Glasgow to build him a small
vessel of some thirty tons burden, he had constructed an engine of three
horse power. Under the name of the u Comet ” he finally set it afloat.
After several experiments, it was in 1812 placed for purposes of traffic
on the Glasgow and Greenock station. Such was the origin of steam
navigation,—an invention which has been productive of the most important
benefits to the human race, and which in all probability is destined, in
the march of improvement, to produce even greater and more glorious
consequences than it has yet effected. Mr. Bell continued to reside at
Helensburgh till the time of his death, which took place at the Public
Baths, of which he had charge, in March 1830, when he had attained the
ripe age of sixty-three. His remains were laid in the beautiful and
secluded church-yard of the parish. Many attempts have been made to
deprive Bell of the fame which he had so nobly earned, but ultimately
his claims were universally admitted, and full honour was rendered to
his services. He received a handsome pension from the Clyde Trust of
Glasgow—which was continued to his wife after Ins decease—while a
monument was erected to his memory at Dunglass, and his portrait fills
the place of honour in the Hall of the Trust, Robertson Street, Glasgow.
The originator of steam
navigation, although resident at Helensburgh at the time of his great
and successful experiment, was not a native of the locality. Henry Bell
was a native of Torphichen, on the river Avon, near Linlithgow, where he
was born on the 7th of April, 1767. His father was a miller at that
place, as it is said his ancestors were for several centuries. While yet
a boy the future engineer was apprenticed as a stone mason. This
occupation, however, he speedily forsook, as we find him in his
sixteenth year engaged as a millwright with an uncle, and ultimately in
his nineteenth year, working as a shipwright at Borrowstouness. Bell, it
appears, laid his plans before the British Government in 1808, and
receiving no encouragement, communicated them also to the principal
governments on the Continent, and to that of the United States. Robert
Fulton, who, in 1807, made a successful experiment in steam navigation
on the Hudson, may thus have seen the plans of Bell, and the latter, it
is well known, always asserted that such was the case.
The look-out from
Helensburgh, and from the heights above it, is one of great beauty. To
the left is seen the wood-covered headland of Ardmore, with Port-Glasgow
and the heights beyond peeping over its shoulder. In front is the
spacious Frith with its passing ships and steamers, and Greenock,
Gourock, and their swelling hills in the background, while Roseneath,
that thing of beauty, with the opening of the Gareloch, presents a
charming picture to the right.
All that is beautiful,
indeed, of earth, or sea, or sky, mar be said to be congregated around
this favoured spot, and rejoices the hearts of its summer visitants.
We have glanced at the
brief history of Helensburgh, and at the splendid scenery which it
commands in a seaward point of view, but this favourite watering-place
has landward beauties as well. By a pleasant inland route the resident
in this locality can drop down upon Lochlomond through the sublime but
dreary portal of Glenfruin, the glen of sorrow—that huge and
blood-stained gap in which the Macgregors and the Colquhouns came into
deadly collision, and wherein the latter were so fearfully worsted. A
dark day for the Laird of Luss was that in which he grappled with the
Macgregor—when the flower of his clan was laid low, and his flocks and
his herds were carried away; but darker and more dreary was it
subsequently for the victors, when they were rendered outcasts on the
face of their native land, and their very name was made a byword and a
reproach. Whether the Macgregors were really the sinners they are said
to have been, or whether they were not more sinned against than sinning,
we will not pretend to say; but this we know, that while their name as
landlords of the soil has passed away, that of the Colquhouns has grown
in strength and influence. Bravery and honesty are often driven to the
wall, while timidity and cunning assume the ascendant. Sir James
Colquhoun is now lord of Helensburgh and all the lands around, while
those against whom neither his predecessors nor the predecessors of his
clan could in combat hold their own, have been scattered to the four
winds of heaven. It has been said that there is as much to be made by
watching as by praying, and certainly the history of our now prosperous
Scottish families shows that there is more to be made by time-serving
and diplomacy than by an honest adherence to the right. Be that as it
may, however, there can be no doubt that every sojourner in Helensburgh
will be well repaid for the few hours he bestows on a visit to Glenfruin,
and through it to Luss and the peerless Loch* lomond—the queen of
Scottish lakes. Another favourite walk with the Helensburgh people is
that along the Cardross shore towards Ardmore, and, on the brow of the
hill, to the ancient Castle of Kilmahew. Every step in this direction
presents, as it were, a new picture of landscape loveliness.
Our present course,
however, is in the opposite direction. We are desirous of getting into
the jaws of the Gareloch, and immediately after leaving the straggling
but beautiful outskirts of Helensburgh, that loch becomes clearly
defined. On the one hand we have the green wooded slopes of Ardincaple,
and on the other, the bosky promontory of Roseneath —both possessions of
the Argyle family. Ardincaple is a stately mansion of the old Scottish
or baronial style, and from time to time has Ijeen used as the residence
of the Duchesses-Dowager of the M‘Callum Mores. Although in the main of
modern, or at least of comparatively modern origin, one portion of the
structure is said to have been erected so early as the twelfth century.
At that period the estates of the Argyle family were of much more
limited extent than they are now; but step by step they have crept from
their native fastnesses towards the low country, until now a large
portion of the shores of Clyde and of the neighbouring lochs has fallen
into their hands. There is an old Scottish saying—
“From the greed of the
Campbells,
The ire of the Drummonds,’’
and certain other family
qualifications,
“Lord deliver us.”
In the case of the
Campbells, at all events, the deliverance seems not to have come, as the
present Duke—although said to be one of the poorest of his
class—possesses an extent of territory which would have overwhelmed some
of the older chieftains who held sway under the banner of the “Boar’s
head.” Ardincaple, however, is a lovely spot— lovely in itself, with its
green lawns, its swelling ridges, and its stately old woods—and lovely
more especially in the glorions prospects of land and sea which it
commands. The proudest dowager in all the land might well be proud of
such a noble residence. The fierce M‘Aulay’s who once called it their
home, must have shed many a bitter tear when the “greed of the Campbells
” deprived them of this their ancient and beautiful patrimony.
Passing a number of
other, but less imposing and less ancient domiciles, we arrive at the
Row—one of the sweetest, one of the cosiest nooks of the Clyde. At this
place a long, narrow, and wedge-shaped point of land stretches out into
the water, and with a similar, but lesser projection from the opposite
shore, threatens to landlock the lovely Gareloch. Fortunately, even at
lowest tides, the junction is far from complete, and the river steamers
have ample scope and verge enough to pass to and fro. Owing to the
contracted nature of the passage, however, the current at certain states
of the tide is exceedingly rapid, a circumstance which swimmers have
sometimes learned to their cost. The point alluded to has given name to
the locality—the Celtic name of Rhue signifying a projecting point or
promontory. A glance at the map of Scotland and the neighbouring islands
will show how frequently the term is applied to similar earthy or rocky
projections into the water. On the ocean-fretted shores of Mull, for
instance, we have rows or rhues innumerable, but generally accompanied
by some descriptive adjective to indicate their respective
peculiarities. Thus, one is called the green or grassy rhue or point,
another the sea-fowl rhue or point, and a third the stormy point,
according to their most striking natural features. Celtic names are
invariably self-descriptive, as the designation of innumerable places
even in lowland Scotland abundantly testify. Centuries ago the Celtic
population were expelled from these districts; and still in the proper
names of places the memory of the ol<J inhabitants—“footprints on the
sands of time”—remain indelibly impressed.
But it is with the
artificial, rather than with the natural or physical features of the Row
proper that we have at present to deal. The swelling heights above the
Row form at this point something like an obtuse angle, the one line
approaching from Helensburgh in an easterly direction, and the other
striking away towards the north or north-west. On either shoulder of the
angle thus formed nestles a group of elegant cottages, and villas, and
mansions, embowered in gardens and shrubbery, with delicious walks
intervening, and with shady nooks, that seem
“For talking age or
whispering lovers made;"
and where, as we are
wandering in this lovely day of June, an hundred odours scent the winds
of noon, and every grove is redolent of song. The eye also rejoices in a
shadowy profusion of green, while the laburnum waves in the breeze her
ringlets of floral gold, and on the lilac you scarce can see the leaves
for flowers. Peeping through the gateways as we pass, the rose and
rhododendron are all ablush—"alike, but oh how different!”—the one
“breathing airs of heaven,” the other, so far as odour is concerned,
stale, flat, and unprofitable. How like are the blossoms of the rose and
those of the rhododendron! but call the latter a rose and it would not
smell so sweet. There is a moral in the contrast, but we need not stay
to extract it. Our sentimental readers, take our word for it, will be
apt enough to do that for themselves. What we meant to say was that a
sweeter, a sunnier, a leafier, or a more bloomy spot exists not on the
Clyde— and that is saying a great deal—than this same scattered
community of the Row.
And all this time we have
not said a single word about the principal feature of Row—namely, its
elegant new kirk. This structure, with its beautiful spire towering
gracefully above its girdle of time-honoured planes, has a delightful
effect, whether seen from the deck of the passing steamer, or as we see
it now from the silent field of graves by which it is so appropriately
surrounded. Here the rude forefathers, hot only of the village, for
until recently it was of the tiniest dimensions, but of the parish,
which is somewhat of the widest, sleep the sleep which knows no
breaking. As wo scan the humble headstones—and humility is not the
characteristic of all—we think that a sweeter spot was never selected
for the last low bed of departed mortality. In their lives these silent
sleepers dwelt amidst the beautiful, and the beautiful still encircles
their place of rest. We could dream of such a place to sleep the long
sleep, but what availeth beauty to the cold dull eye of death? Be it
amidst the din of the city, or in the sweetest of rural solitudes, there
is no fear of disturbance when once the "golden bowl” is shivered. There
are but few noticeable names in the kirkyard of Row, and foremost among
these is that of Henry Bell, to whom a statue has been erected within
the shadow of the parish kirk. Helensburgh, although now a much more
populous and important locality, is but an offshoot of Row, and to Row
Helensburgh consigned the ashes of her most famous son, The old church,
although now superseded by its more stately successor as a place of
worship, still retains its position in the green enclosure. Originally
it must have been but a sorry effort of Presbyterian architecture, and
now that it has waxed old and somewhat dilapidated, it contributes
nothing to the picturesqueness of the spot. Indeed, its removal would be
a benefit to the landscape, as it mars the effect of the new church,
which is situated immediately in its rear. It may be interesting as an
ecclesiastical landmark, however, as it was at this place that what is
called the 44Row Heresy” originated, and it was probably within the
plain, barn-like walls of this ghostly old structure that it was first
promulgated. Of the merits or demerits of the heresy alluded to we are
ashamed to say we know nothing, and we have consequently no great regard
for the source from which it emanated, and would not at all regret the
immediate removal of an edifice which can now only be considered a
cumberer of the ground.
Beautiful as Row may be
in herself, she is rendered still more beautiful by the kindred things
of beauty by which she is surrounded—just as a lovely girl seems to
become more lovely when she is girt by a bevy of her blooming compeers.
On the opposite side of the opening loch—only about half-a-mile in
width—are the charming domains of Roseneath, with their stately castle,
their evergreen lawns and fairy beaches, their wooded knolls and their
swelling heights of dreariest moorland—a congregation in miniature of
all that rejoices the poet’s or the painter’s vision. To the left is
seen a spacious sweep of the Clyde, with its gallant garniture of ships
at rest or in motion upon its breast, and its towns, villages, and
mansions, smiling upon its shores, and its bold boundary of hills
swelling to the very blue of the summer sky. To the right lies the
Gareloch, with its cincture of copse-covered and brown moorish ridges,
and its clusters of snowy cottages nestling quietly along the shore.
Every loophole of this lovely retreat, indeed, commands a landscape
privilege of an ever varying and exceeding beauty.
But our day advances, and
o’er the sunny ripples of the intervening waters we must find our way to
what Sir Walter Scott, in the Heart of Mid-Lothian, calls the “Island of
Roseneath.” In common parlance, we are aware that this exquisite
promontory is also occasionally dubbed the “isle,” but the great and
gloriously gifted author of Waver ley was evidently astray in his
geographical notions of Roseneath. In the novel alluded to in describing
the spot, he says, “The islands in the Frith of Clyde, which the daily
passage of so many smoke-pennoned steamboats now renders so available,
were in our fathers’ times secluded spots, frequented by no travellers,
and few visitants of any kind. They are of exquisite but varied beauty.
Arran, a mountain region or Alpine island, abounds with the grandest and
most romantic scenery. Bute is of a softer and more woodland character.
The Cumbraes, as if to exhibit a contrast to both, are green, level, and
bare neither green, level, nor bare, Sir Walter, say we, forming the
links of a sort of natural bar, which is drawn along the mouth of the
Frith, leaving large intervals, however, of ocean. Roseneath, a smaller
isle, lies much higher up the Frith and towards its western shore, near
the opening of the loch called the Gareloch, and not far from Loch Long
and Loch Seant, or the Holy Loch, which wind from the mountains of the
Western Highlands to join the estuary of the Clyde.” Such is the
description of Roseneath as delineated by the most charming of Scottish
pens—a description which abundantly shows that Sir Walter was never on
the spot, or that if he was, his memory must have played him a sad
trick. We can well forgive an error, however, whent along with it, we
have the name of Jeanie Deans—that most truthful and consistent of the
author’s female creations— associated with the scenery of the Clyde. On
returning from her noble and completely successful pilgrimage to London
on behalf of her unhappy sister, Jeanie, by the request of his Grace of
Argyle, was brought to Roseneath; and every one who has read the novel
must remember the touching scene which occurred on her unexpected
meeting with her father on the beach adjacent to the ducal residence.
Even now, as we approach the spot, we could embody to our mind’s eye the
very scene. As the boat touches the landing-place we can see Jeanie,
with a sweet surprise depicted on her comely countenance, and, to borrow
from the book, "douce David Deans” himself, in his best light-blue
Sunday’s coat with broad metal buttons, and waistcoat and breeches of
the same, his strong gramashes or leggins of thick gray cloth; the very
copper buckles; broad Lowland blue bonnet thrown back as he lifted his
eyes to Heaven in speechless gratitude; the gray locks that straggled
from beneath it down his weather-beaten “haffets;” the bald and furrowed
forehead; the clear blue eye that, undimmed by years, gleamed bright and
pale from under its shaggy gray pent-house; the features, usually so
stern and stoical, now melted into the expression of rapturous joy,
affection, and gratitude—were all those of David Deans, as he exclaimed,
44 Jeanie—my ain Jeanie—my best, my most dutiful bairn; the Lord of
Israel be thy Father, for I am hardly worthy of thee I Thou hast
redeemed our captivity—brought back the honour of our house. Bless thee,
my bairn, with mercies promised and purchased.”
Is not this, with
Roseneath as the scene, a noble subject for the painter? Scott himself
seems to have been especially pleased with his own pen and ink
delineation, and says, u Should I ever again see my friends Wilkie or
Allan, I will try to borrow or steal from them a sketch of this very
scene.” The subject, however, is still virgin. Let our artists look to
it.
Roseneath, the beautiful
promontory on which we are now supposed to be landed, is said to have
derived its name from a phrase in the British language—Roseneath
signifying "the bare or naked peninsula.” Whatever descriptive truth
this name may have originally possessed, we know not, but assuredly it
is anything but appropriate at the present day, when a large proportion
of the lands are mantled with copsewood and timber, and can boast of
numerous sylvan giants of extraordinary dimensions. Two of these—a pair
of silver firs near the site of the old castle—are perhaps the noblest
of the species in Scotland; and to any one who can appreciate forest
stateliness and grace, they would of themselves abundantly repay a
pilgrimage to the locality. These two monarchs of the wood are nearly of
a size, their circumference five feet from the ground being about
nineteen feet. Par nobile fratrum I There is also an avenue of yews near
the site of the old church, which excites universal admiration. But why
mention particular instances where there is such a glorious expanse of
woodland and coppice, and where the visitor might spend the long summer
day in rambling, nor ever leave his canopy of green?
The lands of Roseneath
belonged originally to the family of Lennox. For some act of treason
committed in 1489 they were forfeited to the Crown, and shortly
thereafter were bestowed—for what service is not known—upon Colin, first
Earl of Argyle. The M‘Callum Mores have the knack of keeping what they
acquire, and the estate has ever since remained in possession of the
family, with whom it seems to have been always a favourite place of
resort. The original residence, Easter House, was situated about a mile
to the north-west of the present castle, which lies near the extremity
of the peninsula, upon a beautiful natural terrace overlooking the Clyde
and the opening of the Gareloch. This structure, although presenting an
imposing appearance from the water and the adjacent shores, is somewhat
incongruous in style, being a combination of the Greek and the
castellated Gothic. It was erected in 1803 from a design by J. Bononi of
London. One of the principal fronts faces the north with a magnificent
portico; another of less imposing appearance looks towards the south. On
the summit of the edifice is a circular tower, which is said to command
a magnificent range of scenery— including, of course, the leading
features of the neighbouring Frith and those of the adjacent lake.
Couched upon its own verdant lawn, and half-screened from view by its
lovely environment of woods and gardens, this is indeed one of the most
enviable residenoes which it is possible to conceive.
The village of Roseneath,
with its neat little Gothic church of recent erection, is scattered
along the margin of the Gareloch, of which and of the adjacent heights
it commands a delightful series of prospects. Some of the villas are
extremely elegant, and with their girdles of shrubbery and garden
ground, are the veriest pictures of loveliness and seclusion. Roseneath
has no history of particular moment. Like so many other localities, she
ha3 certain traditions of Wallace—a precipitous rock north of the castle
being called the Wallace’s Leap.” We have it also on the authority of
Blind Harry, that the great Scottish hero resided here on one occasion.
During the “killing times” of Scottish persecution, it is said that many
of the Covenanters found refuge here under the wing of the Argyle, and
it is even said that Balfour of Burley—the assassin of Archbishop
Sharpe— found a safe shelter in this quiet spot, and under an assumed
name here ended his days m peace.
It was formerly alleged
that the soil of Roseneath was inimical to the existence of rats, and
that these vermin died immediately on being brought into the peninsula.
So strong was this impression, that an adventurous West Indian planter,
whose estate was infested by rats, actually took out a shipload of the
sacred soil for the purpose of having them extirpated. The experiment,
we regret to say, proved a signal failure, and at the present day,
whatever may have been the case in former times, rats “ live, move, and
have their being in the parish of Roseneath as abundantly as elsewhere.
In stating this fact, the old minister of Roseneath consoled himself by
the reflection that if the soil had possessed the virtue ascribed to it,
he would probably have had no parish, as the entire peninsula would in
all likelihood have been shipped away for the destruction of rats in
less favoured localities.
On the opposite shore of
the Peninsula from Roseneath lies the modern watering-place of
Kilcreggan, a long straggling line of cottages and villas, extending
even into the mouth of Lochlong. The locality—which commands an ample
sweep of the Frith and of the opposite shore, with its towns and
villages in the foreground, and its brown hills beyond—is said to have
derived its name from a saint or holy man named Creggan, who is said to
have had a cell or chapel in the vicinity. Between Roseneath and
Kilcreggan there is a fine road passing through a succession of charming
landscapes. As we pass along this line of beauty to catch the steamer at
the neat wharf of Kilcreggan, the woods and fields are rejoicing in the
fresh green livery of June, the wayside flowers are all arrayed in their
richest colours and rejoicing in the sun, while the birds in number
numberless, are thrilling the summer air with their woodnotes wild. Let
those who would enjoy a day of solitude, and of freshest natural beauty,
those who can rejoice as we have done, in nature’s joy, tread in our
footsteps, and indulge in a ramble amidst the scenery of sweet Roseneath.
Note.—As a memorial of
the infancy of steam navigation, the following advertisement inserted by
Henry Bell in the newspapers of the period, may not be considered
uninteresting:—
“Steam Passage-boat, The
Comet, between Glasgow, Greenock, and Helensburgh, for Passengers only.
“The Subscriber having,
at much expense, fitted up a handsome vessel to ply upon the River
Clyde, between Glasgow and Greenock—to sail by the power of wind, air,
and steam—he intends that the vessel shall leave the Broomielaw on
Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, about mid-day, or at such hour
thereafter as may answer from the state of the tide—and to leave
Greenock on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, in the morning, to suit
the tide. The elegance, comfort, safety, and speed of this vessel
require only to be proved, to meet the approbation of the public; and
the proprietor is determined to do everything ki his power to merit
public encouragement. The terms are for the present fixed at 4s. for the
best cabin, and 3s. the second; but, beyond these rates, nothing is to
be allowed to servants, or any other person employed about the vessel
The subscriber continues his establishment at Helensburgh Baths, the
same as for years past, and a vessel will be in readiness to convey
passengers in the Comkt from Greenock to Helensburgh.—Passengers by the
Comet will receive information of the hours of sailing, by applying at
Mr. Houston's Office, Broomielaw; or Mr. Thomas Blackney’s, East Quay
Head, Greenock.
“Henry Bell.
“Helensburgh, 5th August,
1812." |